Duplessis Chablis in the Wine Advocate Wine Advocate #226, August 31 st 2016 All reviews by Neal Martin Visiting Domaine Duplessis is always enjoyable even before entering the winery. Overlooking the somnolent River Serein that cuts through the town of Chablis, Duplessis seems to be shrouded in calmness and tranquility. (For background information, please refer to my report in Issue 220.) Lilian Duplessis was on hand to guide me through his 2014s, having taken the reins from his father Gérard. Along with Thomas Pico, Duplessis is one of the most well-known, biodynamic-practicing wineries, which must be tough in such a challenging growing season as 2016. But like Pico, this winemaker is not for turning. We started picking on September 20, he told me. The wines were austere and closed at first, but are beginning to open up. They were bottled a little later giving around 18 months in maturation. I like a long élevage and it is important to give the wines two winters in barrel, the second to help stabilize the wine. Duplessis has plenty of thoroughly enjoyable 2014s to offer: a little austere in style, what you might call classic Chablis that is very discrete with its use of oak. I particularly enjoyed the new addition to his portfolio from Mont de Milieu, with his Fourchaume and Les Clos probably the two picks from the range. 2014 Domaine Gerard Duplessis Chablis 1Er Cru Fourchaume 92...The palate is well balanced with a saline entry. It does not possess huge depth, but there is plenty of freshness here and the vein of brown spice and white pepper towards the finish is welcome. This improves in the glass, gaining cohesion and mineralité. This is one of the best examples from this Premier Cru that I tasted. 2014 Domaine Gerard Duplessis Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 90...a very strict and linear, almost tertiary bouquet at first with subtle undergrowth aromas, but it gains intensity with aeration and develops a light white chocolate scent. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry with hints of dried honey and spice, gentle and harmonious; the finish was a little sweeter than I was anticipating. 2014 Domaine Gerard Duplessis Chablis 1Er Cru Montmains 91...probably displays the best mineralité on the nose. It is tight and linear at first, but there are lovely flint and granite scents that surface with several swirls of the glass. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, lively and spicy on the entry, moderate depth and slightly pinched on the finish. Give this a year or two in bottle and I am certain that it will put on a little more weight. Still, a very fine Montmains with class.
Chablis 1Er Cru Vaillons 90+...a very expressive bouquet with a pleasant and well-judged reductive note that does not obfuscate the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh acidity, a lovely saline component with a linear, quite stern and compelling finish. It is a little tight at the moment, but I can see this repaying 2-3 years in bottle. One to watch. 2014 Domaine Gerard Duplessis Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu 91...the maiden release from 50-year-old vines that were retaken from a fermage after the winemaker working the vines retired, the vines located in the middle of the vineyard. It had been harvested by Duplessis over the last five years, so he is familiar with the parcel and had begun converting the husbandry to biodynamics in 2009. It has an attractive bouquet with white flower infusing the citrus fruit, the aromas nicely defined. The palate is well balanced with a spicy attack on the entry, and it is quite feisty with a lively finish that leaves a dab of ginger. I look forward tasting more from this vineyard in the future. 2014 Domaine Gerard Duplessis Chablis Grand Cru les Clos 94...The bouquet is very attractive with white flowers and hints of dried honey infusing the citrus fruit, harmonious and nicely focused. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, full of energy and tension with touches of stem ginger, dried orange peel and sea salt towards the harmonious and tender finish. This is a gorgeous Les Clos from Duplessis that is going to mature beautifully over the next decade and more. 2014 Domaine Gerard Duplessis Chablis Villages 87 The 2014 Chablis Villages took a little time to open in the glass. It eventually reveals delicate apricot blossom and Granny Smith apple notes, a little nectarine. The palate is well balanced with a touch of spice on the entry, the acidity nicely judged with a pleasant austerity on the finish. 2
Chablis 1Er Cru Fourchaume 92 The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru Fourchaume was quite reticent on the nose, a little austere compared to others that I tasted from Duplessis at the domaine. There is an earthiness here--a stubborn Chablis, perhaps. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry. It does not possess huge depth, but there is plenty of freshness here and the vein of brown spice and white pepper towards the finish is welcome. This improves in the glass, gaining cohesion and mineralité. This is one of the best examples from this Premier Cru that I tasted.
Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 91 The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru Montmains probably displays the best mineralité on the nose. It is tight and linear at first, but there are lovely flint and granite scents that surface with several swirls of the glass. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, lively and spicy on the entry, moderate depth and slightly pinched on the finish. Give this a year or two in bottle and I am certain that it will put on a little more weight. Still, a very fine Montmains with class.
Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 90 The 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre has a very strict and linear, almost tertiary bouquet at first with subtle undergrowth aromas, but it gains intensity with aeration and develops a light white chocolate scent. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry with hints of dried honey and spice, gentle and harmonious; the finish was a little sweeter than I was anticipating. It is an attractive Chablis, although I would put my money on the Fourchaume for the long term.
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 90 + The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaillons, which spent six of 18 months in used 450-liter oak barrel (just 10% new), has a very expressive bouquet with a pleasant and well-judged reductive note that does not obfuscate the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh acidity, a lovely saline component with a linear, quite stern and compelling finish. It is a little tight at the moment, but I can see this repaying 2-3 years in bottle. One to watch.
Chablis Grand Cru les Clos 94 The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos was matured for six months in barrel (15% new) and 12 months in vat. The bouquet is very attractive with white flowers and hints of dried honey infusing the citrus fruit, harmonious and nicely focused. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, full of energy and tension with touches of stem ginger, dried orange peel and sea salt towards the harmonious and tender finish. This is a gorgeous Les Clos from Duplessis that is going to mature beautifully over the next decade and more.
Chablis Villages 87 The 2014 Chablis Villages took a little time to open in the glass. It eventually reveals delicate apricot blossom and Granny Smith apple notes, a little nectarine. The palate is well balanced with a touch of spice on the entry, the acidity nicely judged with a pleasant austerity on the finish.