What is Cognac? Cognac is France's best known brandy, originating in the Poitou-Charentes administrative region in southwestern France, about 100 miles northeast of Bordeaux. The area where Cognac is produced is divided into six zones: Grande Champagne Petite Champagne Fins Bois Borderies Bons Bois Bois Communes The Grande Champagne is the core region and has a chalk-based soil, as does much of the next zone, the Petite Champagne. As one moves outwards, the chalk changes to limestone and then sand, through the Fins Bois, Borderies, Bons Bois and Bois Communes. These soils yield spirits with different textures and aging capability important factors when attempting to duplicate a blend a million bottles a year for decades. Grapes for Wine that Becomes Cognac 98% of the Cognac vineyards are planted with Ugni Blanc, although miniscule parcels of Folle Blanche and Colombard exist. The wine from these grapes reaches a very low alcohol level (7-9 degrees) while retaining high acidity. Wines of this sort, particularly from chalky soils, are ideal for distillation. They are usually distilled several months after the harvest. First Distillation A distiller carefully surveys the entire process. The first spirits to come out of the still, known as the têtes or heads, normally contain such high levels of impurities that they are discarded. The majority of the distillation, called the brouillis, is kept. The wine that takes the longest time to distill and remains at the end, called the queues or tails, is normally too weak and stripped of flavor to produce anything worth keeping. Consequently, like the heads, the tails are often discarded. Second Distillation - Bonne Chauffe The useable material (brouillis) from the first distillation is collected and housed in holding tanks. Afterwards, it is reinstated in the still and processed again. The second time there is less waste material, and 99% is kept. The spirit exits at a higher strength this time, normally in the range of 67 and 72. It goes straight into barrels made of either Limousin or Tronçais oak that average around 350-liters in size. 1
Cognac's Aging Process & Alcohol Reduction As the eau de vie exits the still at around 144 proof, alcoholic reduction begins at a very early age. This reduction is either done with distilled water or petites eaux (a 60-proof blend of distilled water and Cognac). These additions are made once or twice a year. Most Cognac finally reaches the market between 80 and 86 proof. Cognac Blending Concept Whereas it is common to have single-vineyard, single-vintage Armagnacs, most Cognacs are a blend of various vineyard plots and vintages. The reasons for this are mostly to fulfill the enormous worldwide demand for Cognac. Most large houses have hundreds of sources whose spirits they blend to achieve a constant taste. The final coup or blend is made by the master blender who, as in Armagnac, has four groups of permitted additives at his disposal: Water Boisé Sugar syrup Caramel Quality Issues with Young Brandies Armagnacs and Cognacs fewer than 10 years old comprise more than 90% of the world market. Yet these offerings are not the examples by which one should judge either of these spirits. The adulteration of these young brandies is widespread. Their reduction process tremendously cuts their concentration. As a result from the skills of those in the blending laboratory, it can be difficult to determine which flavors are pure and which simulate flavors that would normally arise after a much longer aging period. This is similar to the case in the wine world with wood chips, chaptilization, addition of supplementary varietals, etc. Many producers and négociants, realizing that they are not serious products, will not even taste VSOP or XO-level releases to journalists or connoisseurs. What is Armagnac? Armagnac is a grape brandy from the Gascony region of southwestern France. Its closest relative is Cognac, another grape brandy from an appellation located about 100 miles north of Armagnac. 2
Even though it is related to and often confused with Cognac, Armagnac is very different with regards to its grapes, terroir, distillation, élevage, blending, aromas, tastes and textures. In truth, France's two finest brandies made from wine are not very much alike at all. Armagnac pre-dates Cognac by about 150 years but never achieved the widespread sales figures that its relatives in the Charente obtained. In contrast to commercial sales, however, the independent producer of Armagnac has always commanded a more important restaurant presence and level of connoisseur appreciation. Armagnac is divided into three sub-regions: the Bas-Armagnac the Ténarèze the Haut-Armagnac Bas-Armagnac The Bas-Armagnac (lower-armagnac) is named for its lower altitude, rather than lower quality. The highest number of quality-oriented producers is located in the northwestern portion of the Bas- Armagnac, specifically in the département of Les Landes. This region, unofficially known as the Grand Bas-Armagnac, has sand-based soil, often with a high iron content (sables fauves) or with small pieces of clay (boulbènes) that tend to yield spirits that are very supple in their youth. The Bas-Armagnac is dominated by Bacco and Ugni Blanc plantings. Ténarèze While several excellent independent producers exist in the Ténarèze, this central region is home to most of Armagnac's négociants. The soil base in the Ténarèze is harder (clay and limestone) giving spirits that are firmer in their youth. Spirits from the Ténarèze, however, generally have the ability to age longer than those from the Bas- Armagnac. Plantings are dominated by Ugni Blanc and Colombard, and many farmers divert a good portion of their crop into excellent Côtes de Gascogne wines or Floc de Gascogne, the region's equivalent of Pineau des Charentes. Haut-Armagnac While the Haut-Armagnac comprises nearly 50% of the Armagnac region and is the most visually compelling, one is hard-pressed to find any vines among its rolling hills. Only a handful of independent producers still exist, and the region's limestone soils generally give spirits that are both flat and hard. Armagnac Distillation and Aging 3
Alambic for distillation of Armagnac Mobile alambic for distilling Armagnac For the distillation of Armagnac, the main objective is to heat wine until it boils, purely condense its vapors, and finally reconvert this steam into liquid form again. Traditional Armagnac is distilled once in a small continuous still called an alambic, which is often transported from one producer to the next between the months of November and January. Unlike a double-distillation pot still that eventually heats wine to around 72% (144 proof), the Armagnac alambic issues a spirit between 52% and 60% (104 and 120 proof). Armagnac Distillation in the Alambic First, the wine enters the fire-driven alambic and is warmed in a pre-heater. From there it passes into the main column where it cascades over a number of heated plates. When the wine reaches the lower boiler, it begins to steam and evaporate. The alcoholic vapors then rise back through the curved tubes within the plates, forcing the outgoing eau-de-vie into contact with the incoming wine and insuring that additional fruit elements and flavors are transferred to the spirit. Finally the vapors exit through the top of the column and into the condensing coil, where they are cooled from steam into liquid form before dripping into a wooden cask. Great Armagnac Comes to Those Who Wait This lower-alcohol spirit retains many esters, acids and congeners that double-distillation purifies or eliminates altogether. In their youth, these non-alcohols can make the spirit thick, rustic and slightly foxy. Given time these elements oxidize and gain tremendous aromatic complexity. One needs, however, at least 12-15 years of patience. Unfortunately, the commercial market demands products that are young and inexpensive. Therefore, the blends of many négociants (3 Etoiles, VSOP, Réserve, Hors d'âge) incorporate a percentage of double-distillation (reinstated in 1974) which permits the removal of the non-alcohols and ultimately yields a lighter, more neutral and consumer-friendly spirit that can hit the market after only several years. Aging Armagnac is traditionally aged in a 400-420 liter oak cask known as an une pièce armagnacaise. Whereas Gascon oak was once commonly used, lack of natural resources now warrants an increased usage of oak from the Limousin forest. The differences between the two types of oak are not tremendous: Gascon oak tends to give more tannin, Limousin more vanilla. Adjusting time levels in newer and second-use oak can compensate for each barrel's physical differences. 4
Reading Armagnac Labels There are various categories that describe minimum ages for Armagnac blends. These include: 3 Étoiles (3 stars), which must be at least two years old. VSOP or Réserve, which must be five years old. Napoléon, Vieille Réserve or XO, which must be six years old. Hors d'âge, which must be 10 years old. Primary Differences Between Armagnac and Cognac There are a number of major differences between traditional Armagnac and traditional Cognac. Grapes Armagnac's grapes are split between Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, Colombard, and Bacco. Cognac's grapes are comprised of 98% Ugni Blanc. Geography Oak Armagnac's best grapes are grown on sandy soil in predominantly warm temperatures in southwestern France. Cognac's best grapes are grown on chalky soil with predominantly mild temperatures about 100 miles north of the Armagnac region near the Atlantic coast. Armagnac is generally aged in Limousin or local Gascon oak. Cognac is aged in oak from the Limousin and Tronçais forests. Distillation Traditional Armagnac is often single-distilled in a mobile alambic. Cognac is required to be distilled twice in a pot still. Alcohol Content Traditional Armagnac has an alcoholic content that is normally between 46 and 48. Cognac is reduced with petites eaux or distilled water to 40. Vintage Traditional Armagnac is given a vintage date. Vintages are extremely rare in Cognac. Instead, Cognac is nearly always a blend of various vintages. 5
What Is Calvados? Calvados is a pear and apple-based brandy from the northern part of France along the English Channel in the Normandy region. With a history dating back nearly 500 years, the region has a long tradition of distilling their ciders into delicious and complex spirits. While not as well known as cognac or armagnac, calvados holds a dear place in the hearts of many spirits lovers. To create calvados, apples and pears are collected from the ground during the autumn and pressed into juice. The unclarified juice is then fermented into a cider with between 6% and 8% alcohol. This cider is then passed through a still, where a 70% alcohol will eventually emerge. This clear spirit then goes into barrel, where it picks up color and additional aromas and flavors. It can be sold after its third birthday but is often aged for much longer. Tasting Calvados Just about anytime is good for a glass of calvados. Calvados has traditionally been drunk after a meal, partially because of its digestive qualities. And while it is highly enjoyable to have a snifter after a meal (perhaps in another room and in a comfortable chair), calvados can be enjoyed under many different circumstances. Popular nowadays are cocktails made with calvados, while the spirit is also used in many culinary preparations. What's more, a glass of calvados is fantastic in everyday situations, like while watching a DVD, Monday Night Football, or working on the computer at night. Calvados Appellations There are three appellations in Calvados: Calvados Pays d'auge Controlee, Appellation Calvados Controlee, Appellation Calvados Domfrontais Controlee Calvados Pays d'auge Controlee The Pays d' Auge was established in 1942. Apples dominate in the Pays d' Auge, and most calvados in the region is made with only apples. Calvados from the Pays d' Auge must be distilled twice, a process that sets it apart from the other appellations. Appellation Calvados Controlee At one point, the expansive area now known as Appellation Calvados Controlee was divided into regulated regions, spread all across Normandy and spilling across the borders of several neighboring departments. These regulated regions were grouped together in the 1980s. The soils vary widely from region to region. Most producers use only apples in their cider and the majority distill their cider once in a column still. Appellation Calvados Domfrontais Controlee This appellation, established in 1997, surrounds the town of Domfront in the Orne, from which it takes its name. Using at least 30% pears in their distillate is obligatory in the Domfrontais, although it is common for some producers to use 70% or 80% in their ciders. Distillation takes place once in a column still as is done in Appellation Calvados Controlee. 6
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