The Society s HOW TO BUY BEAUJOLAIS Contents How to Buy Beaujolais Beaujolais: Vital Statistics A Little About the Gamay Grape Winemaking The Trade How to Buy Appellations The Vintages Keeping Beaujolais thewinesociety.com
HOW TO BUY BEAUJOLAIS Beaujolais buyer Marcel Orford-Williams has not been able to contain his excitement about the quality of recent vintages. Here he tells us what it is about the area s superior cru wines that deserve greater attention. Marcel Orford-Williams These are dream times for Beaujolais. The last ten years have included two outstanding vintages, 2005 and 2009, which have brought a lot of belief back into Beaujolais. And if these vintages are indeed exceptional, others like 2000, 2006, 2007 and now 2010 are very good, with 2010 not so far behind the two leaders. So what makes Beaujolais so special? At its best, there is little that can match its fragrant, sappy, fruity flavours. Beaujolais tends to drink beautifully upon release; indeed, extolling the wines youthful virtues has been hugely successful. At one time more than half the crop was sold as Beaujolais Nouveau, released on the third Thursday of November. There were races for the first case of Nouveau in the UK and Nouveau breakfasts being held at improbable hours. Selling was easy; producers became complacent and merchants kept prices down. Inevitably quality suffered and suddenly there were far nicer wines to drink on the market. Nouveau fell out of fashion. But of course there was always far more to Beaujolais than Nouveau, and away from the limelight the other kind of Beaujolais continued to be made, often using very traditional methods of production and reflecting a complexity of terroir that still comes as something of a surprise but was revealed in all its glory in iconic vintages like 2005 and 2009. Beaujolais: Vital Statistics Total vineyard area: 18,500 hectares, and some 2,600 growers producing nearly 1.5 million bottles. Of the 18,500 hectares, a little over 200 is planted with chardonnay, which is growing in popularity because it is easier to sell and can be turned into sparkling cremant de Bourgogne. White Beaujolais is sold either as Beaujolais blanc or Beaujolais-Villages blanc, and the best comes areas with chalk in the soil The rest is planted with a single red grape: the gamay, or to be more precise, gamay noir à jus blanc. The region lies between the towns of Mâcon and Lyon with most of the vineyard confusingly coming into the Département du Rhône. Indeed, more dismissive Burgundians sometimes refer to Beaujolais as Vins du Rhône. A Little About the Gamay Grape There are some 35,000ha of gamay planted worldwide, mostly in France, and plantings take up more than half of Beaujolais area under vines. The problem is that it doesn t work everywhere. No wonder then that a ducal decree was passed in 1395 outlawing its use in Burgundy. The grape variety is an ancient one and it was always thought that gamay was a poor cousin of the pinot noir. There is even a village called Gamay, on a road between St Aubin and Puligny, which might have seen the birth of this variety. In reality gamay and pinot noir are quite distinct varieties and gamay might have come from further south. It remains important in many Alpine vineyards and is also present in the Rhône Valley. 2 To see our range, visit thewinesociety.com
Gamay can be a vigorous variety, difficult to fruit and tricky to ripen. To control this vigour, the grape is planted densely, typically at 10,000 vines per hectare in Beaujolais. Furthermore, the vines are often pruned hard and very low, making work in the vineyard particularly labour intensive. In most cases harvesting is still done by hand and many vineyards in the Crus are so steep that mechanisation is more or less impossible. Gamay reveals its southern roots by the fact that in order for it to ripen properly it needs at least a short spell of real heat, which it usually gets in Beaujolais. Yields can be huge, but best results are found between about 40-45hl/ha. The Gamay Grape In terms of soil, gamay does not do well on sedimentary rock types. Much of Beaujolais is granite with outcrops of schist in part of Morgon or Andesites in the Cote de Brouilly. In the Auvergne, gamay is planted on basalts and in the Côtes Roannaise there is again granite. Finally, gamay is susceptible to rot and needs constant attention. It usually ripens early but the mistake that many make is to harvest too soon. Beaujolais is a mountainous region with hills rising up to about 1000m. Violent storms are not uncommon and many vineyards have been devastated by hail. All in all then, for a wine that seems so uncomplicated, the grape from which it is made is fraught with difficulties. Winemaking In essence there are two methods to make Beaujolais. The classic method is by semi-carbonic maceration in which grapes are fermented whole in a carbon dioxide rich environment. Carbonic maceration ferments with the grape, releasing lots of colour and attractive fruity flavours without tannin. The length of maceration depends on the style of the wine. For nouveau, the time spent in contact with skins is minimal. There is also an express way to macerate which is by heating the grapes. Thermo-vinification as it is called does the job well, but it is often over-used, with the result that all wines end up tasting much the same. Beaujolais is also capable of making fine wine that can keep. Here winemaking is more traditional: crushing, then maceration with pumping over. The Trade While there are about 2600 growers, not so many of them own land. Land ownership remains somewhat medieval with many absentee land-owners living in Paris or Burgundy. So most growers are tenants and they pay landlords either in cash or in half of their crop. Making a living in Beaujolais is not easy. Production costs are high while selling prices remain quite low, especially for simple Beaujolais and Villages where the outlook remains bleak. Historically, négociants were very strong though gradually they have been reduced in number with the many co-ops now selling directly to the big supermarket groups. Meanwhile the negociants are increasingly reliant on wines from elsewhere, notably the Rhône Valley and Languedoc. Not all is gloom. Far from it, as there is a growing realisation that the Beaujolais is quite unique and its granitic terroir a positive asset. There has been investment from Burgundian Houses, notably Bouchard (where the family has owned land for generations) and Louis Jadot (whose Chateau des Jacques in Moulin à Vent has become a standard bearer for the region). To order thewinesociety.com 01438 740222 3
HOW TO BUY Below is a list of the appellations and the last 20 or so vintages. But what is important more than anything else is the name of the grower. Avoid mass production as the wines nearly all taste the same. Go instead for producers with passion, dedication and a more handcrafted approach to things. Trenel is a négociant but on a very small scale and they are fastidious in their selection. Other names to watch out for include Jean Marc Burgaud, Pierre-Yves Perrachon, Bernard Metrat, Cédric Chigniard and Laurent Guillet. The Wine Society buys from growers and négociants, and we blend wines from very good estates to come up with exclusive blends which we often sell under the Exhibition label. These are often very good and offer very good value for money. Appellations Most Beaujolais is sold as Appellation Contrôlée (though there can be a Vin de Pays called Vin de Pays des Gaules which allows for higher yields and cheaper prices but is rarely used). In total, there are twelve separate appellations. Beaujolais About 40 million bottles. Mostly from the south where the soils are often of a limestone called pierres dorées, which makes excellent building material. But there are granites as well and a great many styles of wine possible though a major part of the productions continues to be made as Nouveau. Beaujolais-Villages Also around 40 million bottles. The Villages wines come from the north and are set among the ten crus and planted on the same granitic soils. 38 parishes are allowed to produce Beaujolais-Villages. They offer a midway point between Nouveau and the greater complexity of the crus, and often represent excellent value for money. Some of the village names to look out for: Vaux en Beaujolais, which Clochemerle was based on, Le Perreon, Ste Etienne des Ouilleres, Lancé, Lantigné. Villages can come in all colours and styles. The ten cru villages on the other hand only produce red wine which or course has to be made using the gamay grape. Around 50 million bottles can be produced each year but in practice there is rather less as many growers (especially those in less well-known crus such as Chénas and Chiroubles) prefer to declassify, in which case they can often sell as AOC Bourgogne rouge. Each village has a style of its own. From north to south they are: Saint-Amour Only 320ha with vineyards that are often interspersed with blocks of chardonnay that make Macon Villages or St Verand. The vineyards were once the property of canons belonging to the chapter of Saint-Vincent in Mâcon. Prior to 1789 the canons held the hardly saintly droit de cuissage as one of their feudal rights which gave rise to the cru s romantic name. The wines are generously flavoured, often a little rustic and always need a little more time. A marketing initiative that linked Saint-Amour with Valentine s Day ensures that this is usually the most expensive of the crus. 2010, 2009, 2006, 2005, 2003, 2000. 4 To see our range, visit thewinesociety.com
Juliénas One of the largest crus (600ha), but often plagued by hail storms. Juliénas, named after Caesar, is on steep slopes of granite or schist, and produces a succulent style of Beaujolais, deply coloured, fleshy and thickly textured. Generally, wines from Juliénas (you don t pronounce the s ) are ready early and maybe kept for three or four years. Perfect steak and chips red in my book. 2010, 2009, 2007, 2005, 2003, 2001, 2000. Chénas With only 250ha, this is the smallest of the ten crus and the hardest to find. The sad fact is that 85% is sold off as AOC Bourgogne in some years, making it even rarer. The granite soils used to lie beneath oak forests, hence the name. A good Chénas is flavourful and spicy with an ability to age, especially in good vintages. 2010*, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2000. * Chenas was hit by hail in 2009 which had an effect on many wines. 2010 is the better vintage. Moulin-à-Vent This 660ha appellation is the grandest of the crus that in good vintages may be spoken of in the same breath as other great wines of Burgundy. The soil is the same pink granite as in Fleurie, but with seams of manganese and iron that are said to account for extra colour in the wines. The wines are fleshy, round and full and always need a year after the harvest. The most structured of the crus, Moulin-à-Vent responds well to ageing in oak barrel and is the least Beaujolais-like. A major study has been conducted into the geology of Moulin-à-Vent with a view to creating a premier cru appellation, which would be a first for Beaujolais. Some of the vineyard names to look out for include les Thorins, Rochegrès and la Rochelle. 2010, 2009, 2006, 2005, 2003, 2002, 2000, 1999. Fleurie Prettily named, the wines of Fleurie are a delight to the senses: fragrant, floral, silky and charming. Fleurie comprises 890ha. Vineyards closest to Morgon or Moulin-à-Vent are fuller-flavoured while those around the village itself are often more floral. Vineyard names or climats are much in use. Some of the best ones are Poncié, la Roilette, Chapelle des Bois and Clos des Moriers. The best known is probably La Madonne with its little Chapel perched above the village. Good Fleurie ages quite well but few producers make the effort to make serious wine. The restaurant le Cep run by the mildly eccentric Mme Chagny is an excellent place to explore the cru. 2010, 2009, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2003, 2000. To order thewinesociety.com 01438 740222 5
Chiroubles A mountain wine made from grapes grown at an average altitude of 1,000 feet. Soils of this 360ha cru are light and made of shallow granitic sands. Some of the vineyards are very steep, more akin to the Rhône than Burgundy. The wines are light, fragrant and delicate, more floral than fruity and should be drunk young, and just on the cool side. Always refreshing and the cru that is readiest soonest. 2010, 2009, 2007, 2006, 2002, 2000. Morgon Morgon covers 1100ha. The best soils are of weathered schist on the south-facing slope of the Mont du Py. The gamay here ripens well and produces a wine that is dense, richly flavoured and rewarding. Good Morgon ages well, up to ten years, and with time develops great complexity. If Moulin a Vent goes Burgundian with age, then there is something definitely Rhône-like about Morgon. Always loads of personality and flavour. Again look out for individual climats such as Cote du Py, les Cras or les Charmes. 2010, 2009, 2006, 2005, 2003, 2002, 2000. Régnié Wines from the club des crus most recent member s 370ha often lack real identity, coming some way in style between Brouilly and Morgon. At their best, they re full-flavoured, honest wines that go well with food. Always good value. 2010, 2009, 2007, 2005, 2000. Brouilly With 1300ha, this is the largest of the crus. Can usually be relied upon to produce the perfect bistro Beaujolais favoured by Parisians to go with their steak-frîtes; flavoury, sappy, easily forthcoming and good value for money. Within such a large district, there is room for some variation: Brouilly from the area known as Pisse-Vieille, for example, is softer and rounder. 2010, 2009, 2007, 2005, 2004, 2002, 2001, 2000. Côte de Brouilly Though an enclave of Brouilly, its 310ha makes up what is a quite separate district, planted on the slopes of the remains of an ancient volcano. The soil is quite distinct being of a blue grey andesite. The wines have real bloom, deep purple, aromatic and a piquant, spicy, mineral flavour. The wines keep well too. 2010, 2009, 2006, 2005, 2002, 2000. 6 To see our range, visit thewinesociety.com
The Vintages 2010 A very late harvest indeed with picking to the end of September. This was a scary vintage as by the end of a cold August nothing much was ripe but then the weather changed quite dramatically as the sun came back. The key was to pick late, and for the late pickers 2010 is a very good vintage. Classic Beaujolais style with plenty of colour and lots of fruit. Morgon and Chénas would be my picks. 2009 The perfect vintage. Very ripe but with everything in perfect balance. Wonderful to drink now but the best will keep for years. Most growers say it is the best in a lifetime. The stars are Moulin à Vent, Juliénas, Morgon and Côte de Brouilly too. 2008 Challenging vintage. Very late ripening but the grapes were often not healthy. Good growers had to do a good deal of sorting. Brouilly and Régné had the better hit rates. 2007 A good vintage with an outcome that again depended on a late return to warmth and sunshine in September. The best wines have kept well. Best results come from Morgon, Chénas, Moulin à Vent and Juliénas, which was my favourite. 2006 A very good vintage with perfectly balanced wines and in a more Beaujolais style than either 2005 or 2003. Best were Chiroubles, Morgon and Côte de Brouilly. 2005 An outstanding vintage, but often not Beaujolais-like. A hot summer also marked by drought produced a crop of very small and thick-skinned berries. Wines were full, complex and often quite tannic. Outstanding Moulin à Vent, some of which still needs keeping. 2004 A poor vintage that could only be saved by very fine work in the vineyards. 2003 Extraordinary year that saw devastating winds during the spring, drought and extremely high temperatures. Growers picked in mid-august and few wines escaped high alcohol degrees. Plenty of failures, but a few completely splendid wines. Only half a crop sent prices rocketing so we ended up not buying very much. 2002 Not the easiest of vintages but some remarkable results. Wonderfully fine Moulin à Vent. Moulin à Vent To order thewinesociety.com 01438 740222 7
2001 Difficult vintage which marked the grapes with high acidity. Top wines have aged well with the best maybe from Morgon. 2000 A great, easy vintage. Picking started early on 28th August and conditions remained fine for the harvest. Flaurie and Moulin à Vent were best and some are still very good today. 1999 Lovely, ripe vintage with high sugar levels allowing many growers to make wine without chaptalisation. Morgon and Fleurie were good as was Moulin à Vent. 1998 Harvest rain diluted some of the crop so there were mixed results. Best came from the north, such as Fleurie and Saint Amour where frosts had cut the yields during the spring. 1997 A very hot summer, resulting often in raisin-like grapes. Good growers made good wine. Best were from Juliénas and Fleurie. 1996 A big harvest and wines for early drinking. 1995 A very good vintage with rich and full bodied wines. Morgon was especially good, as was Moulin à Vent. 1994 A good vintage for drinking early with Fleurie the star. 1993 A mixed bag but with some notable successes from Moulin à Vent, Chénas and Morgon. 1992 Very average and the best clearly for drinking early. Fleurie was good. 1991 Outstanding vintage, just like the Northern Rhône. Wonderful Morgon and Fleurie. 1990 Lovely ripe vintage but often lacking grip. 1991 was better. 1989 Very good vintage, full and ripe-tasting. 8 To see our range, visit thewinesociety.com
Keeping Beaujolais By and large Beaujolais is meant for drinking young but some do keep. A 1976 Morgon Côte du Py from Trenel was still fabulous four or five years ago. Wines from Moulin à Vent and Chénas also keep well as can Côte de Brouilly. Most Beaujolais is good to drink young, regardless of quality. An exception can sometimes be the small but growing number of wines that are aged in barrel where the taste of wood can be overly present. In good vintages like 2005 wines go through a dumb stage for maybe a year when they loose their primary fruit flavours. As they get older, wines become less and less Beaujolais like, some going north to resemble Burgundian cousins while some become more Rhône-like. All photographs copyright Daniel Gillet The Wine Society is a mutual organisation, owned by and selling only to its members. Since it was founded in 1874, The Society s aim has been to source the best possible wines for members, seeking neither to maximize growth nor profits. To find out more call 01438 741177 or visit thewinesociety.com Website: thewinesociety.com 2013. All rights reserved. Printed: The International Exhibition Co-operative Wine Society Limited. All rights reserved. The International Exhibition Co-operative Wine Society Limited. Registered Office: Gunnels Wood Road, Stevenage, Hertfordshire, SG1 2BT Register Number: 1824R (IP) Website thewinesociety.com Enquiries 01438 741177 Orders 01438 740222 twitter.com/thewinesociety facebook.com/thewinesociety societygrapevine.com thewinesociety.com/app