north-west tasmania Home to some of the best produce Australia has to offer, Tasmania s north-west coast is filled with top-notch vineyards, sensational seafood and enough foodie secrets to make it a must-visit destination. WORDS Sue Dyson & Roger McShane PHOTOGRAPHY sean fennessy Many people pass through Tasmania s north-west coast on the way to two of Tasmania s iconic tourist attractions Cradle Mountain in one direction and Strahan in the other. Heading elsewhere, they don t stop, which means they miss out on one of Australia s most fertile and abundant food regions. Tasmania s north west produces most of Australia s traditional processed vegetables peas, broccoli, potatoes, cauliflower and the like but today s farmers also grow slowripened avocados, saffron, ginseng and wasabi, and hunt for truffles under inoculated hazelnut trees. There are some excellent olive oil producers, vineyards and distilleries, and with fishing ports scattered along the coast, seafood is also plentiful. There are excellent local restaurants but part of this region s charm is the ease with which you can forage for your own provisions, visiting roadside stalls, farm shops and farmers markets, and the likelihood you ll stumble across good things in unexpected places such as baskets of free-range duck eggs on the counter of a country antique shop. All you need is an esky, a hire car, accommodation with a kitchen and a good appetite to make the most of what you unearth. 48 delicious.
Clockwise from left: stock up at Providore 24, Stanley; Wild, in Penguin; Glencoe Rural Retreat, Barrington; Gourmet 2 Go, Devonport; enjoy the views and great fish & chips at Fish Frenzy. Opposite, clockwise from far left: Stanley s rugged coastline; Glencoe Rural Retreat s chocolate fondant; cottage accommodation at Glencoe Rural Retreat. where to eat Glencoe Rural Retreat Their own garden and local suppliers provide much of the inspiration for French couple Ginette and Remi Bancal s delicious dishes. Specialities include lamb with aillade (a garlic sauce) and a fabulous chocolate fondant. You can just show up during the day, although it s wiser to ring ahead, but must book for the nightly table d hôte three-course dinner, for which house guests get first preference. The wine list is also good not surprising as Remi was sommelier at Sydney s Banc. 1468 Sheffield Rd, Barrington, (03) 6492 3267. Glo Glos The contorted willow and bud lights at Glo Glos seem a little old-fashioned, but there are enough gems on the menu for this to be one of the north west s best restaurants. West Coast rock lobster soup and chateaubriand are both classically good and the carpaccio of Tasmanian beef with mustard aioli, fennel and lemon is superb. Try Black-gold ice cream made with locally grown truffles for dessert. There are plenty of good wine choices, and they re open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday. 78 Gilbert St, Latrobe, (03) 6426 2120. Wild Wild successfully treads a fine line between Asia and Europe. A roller-coaster menu, with dishes such as rice paper rolls with hoisin duck, Thai-inspired grilled calamari on soba noodles, and straightforward grilled blue-eye trevalla with lemon, could easily come unstuck but it doesn t thanks to chef David Aitken s fine touch. Its success is due as much to Jacquiline Leary s adroit management out front they re a formidable team. Reservations are essential, especially on weekends. 87 Main Rd, Penguin, (03) 6437 2000.
The Groovy Penguin Cafe (74 Main Rd, Penguin, (03) 6437 2101) is the cafe every seaside village would love to have; windows open to stunning views of the beach, excellent Genovese coffee and friands that are baked on site. It positively buzzes on weekends so be prepared to wait for a table it s worth it. You have to love a restaurant that shucks oysters to order. At Muddled (104 Wilson St, Burnie, (03) 6431 9393), you can order them natural with wakame seaweed and lemon, grilled with pancetta and sherry vinaigrette, or baked with green papaya and rock sugar. The oyster selection gives a hint as to what else to expect largely local produce, including abalone, quail and venison, given an idiosyncratic touch. Light and airy, with amazing beach views and some of the best fish and chips in the state, Fish Frenzy (2 North Tce, Burnie, (03) 6432 1111) feels like holiday eating. Start with oysters, followed by flathead or blue-eye in a tempura batter, complemented by a light Tassie riesling. Do breakfast or lunch at the Deloraine Deli (36 Emu Bay Rd, Deloraine, (03) 6362 2127) or Bicci Blue Bakehouse (147 Gilbert St, Latrobe, (03) 6426 1622) for wonderful bread and pastry treats. The Rialto Gallery Restaurant (46 Wilmot St, Burnie, (03) 6431 7718) is the locals choice for pasta. Try Wynyard Wharf Seafoods (Wynyard Wharf, (03) 6442 4412) for old-fashioned fish and chips. Further west, try the Stanley Hotel (21 Church St, Stanley, (03) 6458 1161), for steak and, although only open in summer, The Old Cable Station (435 Green Hills Rd, Stanley, (03) 6458 1312) produces brilliant things from its woodfired oven, such as roasted crayfish. where to drink Seven Sheds Renowned beer writer Willie Simpson puts what he s previously preached into practice at his microbrewery and boutique hop farm. His Kentish Ale is a lovely summer drop, plus he makes two excellent meads; a raspberry mead and one made from blackcurrants and pepper berries. Join a tour to benefit from his beer wisdom. 22 Crockers St, Railton, (03) 6496 1139. Barringwood Park On the hills above Barrington, this cellar door has majestic views over fertile countryside to the sea. Best known for its intense Mill Block pinot noir and fruitdriven pinot gris, the range also includes a lively early-drinking Forest Raven pinot noir, a 100 per cent pinot meunier, and an aromatic Schönburger white. You can order share platters at the on-site cafe. 60 Gillams Rd, Lower Barrington, (03) 6492 3140. Lake Barrington Vineyard This vineyard produces Alexandra, one of the state s most complex and interesting sparklings. Its cellar door (open November to April) overlooks the lake, and visitors are encouraged to bring a picnic. Manager Phil Dolan has his own vineyard, White Rock, at Kimberly 30 kilometres away, and his wines, including a chardonnay, a pinot noir and a riesling, which James Halliday awarded 92 points, are also available at Lake Barrington. 1136 Kentish Park Rd, West Kentish, (03) 6491 1249. Hellyers Road Distillery Hellyers Road is one of several distilleries to open in Tasmania in recent years. It s now almost possible to do a whisky-trail tour of the state and, if you did, Hellyers Road would be a good starting point. The best way to sample its single-malt whiskies, made using locally grown barley, is to join a distillery tour. Hellyers Road also makes triple-distilled, charcoal-filtered vodka. 153 Old Surrey Rd, Burnie, (03) 6433 0439. Wilmot Hills Vineyard Vineyard doesn t do justice to the array of things at Wilmot Hills. As well as a chardonnay and a pinot noir and wines made from rarer grapes such as gamay, Ruth and John Cole make English-style dry ciders, fruit wines, apple brandy and kirsch using produce from their Wilmot property. 407 Back Rd, Wilmot, (03) 6492 1193. Wine lovers can also add Ghost Rock (1055 Port Sorell Rd, Northdown, (03) 6428 4005), Leven Valley (321 Raymond Rd, Gunns Plains, (03) 6429 1186) and Hawley Vineyards (71 Wright St, East Devonport, (03) 6427 0477) to their itineraries. where to shop 41 Degrees South It s worth visiting 41 Degrees South just for Ziggy and Angelika Pyka s hot-smoked Atlantic salmon, produced from fish raised in tanks on their farm but that s only part of the story. Their passion is ginseng, which is just becoming available in commercial quantities. You can also take a self-guided tour of the wetland they ve established, which acts as a natural filter for the waste from the salmon, and there s a reasonable chance you ll see a platypus. 323 Montana Rd, Deloraine, (03) 6362 4130. House of Anvers House of Anvers showcases the chocolate truffles Belgian-born Igor Van Gerwen has been perfecting since he started making them in the late 1980s. Watch truffles being made, taste them, buy them and visit a chocolate museum. There s also a cafe, which is open from early in the morning. 9025 Bass Hwy, Latrobe, (03) 6426 2958. Ashgrove Farm Cheese The painted life-sized cows in the paddock are as much an attraction as the Englishstyle cheeses, made with milk from cheesemaker Jane Bennett s family s herd of Friesians. You can also pick up ice cream, milk and many of Tasmania s best honeys, chutneys, wine and smoked fish. On weekday mornings from August to May you can watch cheese being made. 6173 Bass Hwy, Elizabeth Town, (03) 6368 1105. At the National Foods Cheese Tasting Centre (145 Old Surrey Rd, Burnie, (03) 6432 9255), sample many of Tasmania s best-known cheeses including Heidi Farm gruyere and Tasmanian Heritage. FourWays Fruit & Veg There s nothing fancy about this oldfashioned store but the sign, This shop sells local and organic produce, is the clue to why it s worth visiting. Staples such as carrots, potatoes and cauliflower come from organic Forest Hill Farm. In spring, asparagus from Sassafras is followed by broad beans, then peas. Its shelves truly represent the cycles of each season. 124 Best St, Devonport, (03) 6423 6646. 50 delicious.
Stanley shops. Clockwise from below: Fresh produce at Fourways Fruit & Veg, Devonport; the state s famous Dutch cream potatoes are available at Fourways; Willie Simpson with a Kentish Ale at Seven Sheds, Railton; Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm Cafe, Elizabeth Town; the not so big breakfast at Groovy Penguin Cafe, Penguin.
@ VDL s converted convict-built warehouse (Stanley). From far left: the crystal-clear waters of Boat Harbour Beach; Gourmet 2 Go s breakfast pancakes. Gourmet 2 Go This is a good address to have up your sleeve if you re staying in self-contained accommodation because of its handy selection of prepared dishes including lasagne, frittata and salads, as well as shelves of local wines. 5 Kempling St, Devonport, (03) 6423 4812. Petuna Seafoods Petuna is famous for the Macquarie Harbour ocean-run trout that stars in one of the world s most-photographed dishes Tetsuya s confit of ocean trout. Buy it here, along with cold-smoked trout and wild fish such as blue-eye. 134 Tarleton St, East Devonport, (03) 6427 9033. Providore 24 When you visit the charming, historic port of Stanley, allow time to browse Providore 24 s well-stocked shelves for local wines, cheeses, Blue Hills honey, the organic, coldextracted honey, Miellerie, from Yves Ginat apiary, Anvers chocolates and more. The bread, which comes from Le Fournil du Yorktown, is the best in the region. 24 Church St, Stanley, (03) 6458 1323. delish fine foods Stock up on cheeses, hams, sausages and smoked quail from Hobart s Wursthaus, as well as local specialities such as Trafford honey. Plus, there s a corner devoted to Tasmanian and imported wines. 36 Main Rd, Wivenhoe, (03) 6431 2211. farmers markets Plan to be in the area on a Saturday so you can visit a farmers market. Burnie Farmers Market (Wivenhoe Showground, Anglesea St, (03) 6431 5882) operates on the first and third Saturday of the month and Devonport Farmers Market (Devonport Showground, off Gunn St, (03) 6424 2253) on the second and fourth. Local farmers also have stalls at other general weekend markets such as those at Penguin, Latrobe and Don. farm shops Visit the Cherry Shed (Cnr Gilbert Rd & Bass Hwy, Latrobe, (03) 6426 2411) or Perfecta (45 Kimberleys Rd, Ulverstone, (03) 6425 6999) for fresh cherries. Perfecta s cafe is renowned for its cherry pancakes. Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm Cafe (Bass Hwy, Elizabeth Town, (03) 6362 2186) has great housemade ice cream; the Berry Patch (4 Blackburn Dr, Turners Beach, (03) 6428 3967), near the turn off to Turners Beach, is good for strawberries; Mountain Fruit (10 Devils Gate Rd, Barrington, (03) 6492 3194) has, depending on the season, a vast array of berries including gooseberries, jostaberries and even myrtus berries. Buy unshucked oysters from Buckaneer s Seafood (4 Inglis St, Wynyard (03) 6442 4104) and they ll also sell you an oyster knife if you forgot to pack one. Redbank Farm Shop (152 Broomhalls Rd, Sisters Creek, (03) 6445 1438) makes pork pies, plum puddings and the Hill Farm range of chutneys, mustards and sauces. where to stay Glencoe Rural Retreat This delightful Federation house located in the heart of Kentish countryside has become a destination for food tourists in the know (see Where to Eat ) and staying here is the best way to secure a dinner booking. The four bedrooms are decorated in French provincial style. From $175 per double per night, including breakfast. Visit: glencoeruralretreat.com.au. Madsen Boutique Hotel With so many good dining options in town, all within walking distance, this six-room hotel is a good choice. The spacious beachfront and waterfront suites, both of which overlook the beach and Bass Strait, are the best rooms. From $150 per double per night, including breakfast. 64 Main Rd, Penguin, (03) 6437 2588, themadsen.com. The Winged House Hovering on the edge of the Table Cape cliffs, this architectural masterpiece offers the perfect setting to enjoy the north west s bounty. This two-bedroom house has a Japanese bath and a gourmet kitchen with all the equipment you re likely to need (and mesmerising views). Plus, the pantry is stocked with supplies to get you started, including wine, which is all the more enjoyable thanks to the Riedel glasses. From $350 per double per night or $500 for two nights. 400 Tollymore Rd, Table Cape, (03) 6442 3386, thewingedhouse.com.au. quentin dempster, part-owner of the winged house, is employed by the abc in nsw. this inclusion was initiated by the authors and was not suggested or solicited by mr dempster. 52 delicious.
2. 1. 3. 4. 7. 5. 6. 8. 9. 10. 15. 11. 14. 13. 16. 12. 17. 18. Harbour Houses Boat Harbour is a gem of a village reached via a winding descent from where you first glimpse its crescent-shaped beach. Two of the houses are on the edge of the beach, with decks that are perfect for alfresco dining. There s a third on the other side of the road, which has lovely views of the beach and beyond to Bass Strait. From $220 per double per night, including breakfast. Port Rd, Boat Harbour Beach, 0407 805 305, harbourhouse.com.au. Beachside Retreat Sitting in the sand dunes overlooking an out-of-the-way tidal inlet behind Stanley, these contemporary apartments are surrounded by a rich habitat of bird life, wild animals and native plants, which you re encourage to explore you can even harvest your own oysters. Each apartment has a private outdoor deck and one also has an outdoor spa. From $178 per double per night (minimum twonight stay). 253 Stanley Hwy, Stanley, (03) 6458 1350, beachsideretreat.com. @ VDL Stanley There are only two suites in this luxury hotel, which owners Jason Clare and David Johnson created from a magnificent convict-built bluestone warehouse. It s a personal statement memorable local art, spacious rooms and clean contemporary lines, but balanced to respect the building s heritage. From $220 per night per double. 16 Wharf Rd, Stanley, (03) 6458 2032, atvdlstanley.com.au. Newly opened Aquilla Barn (66 Table Cape Rd, Wynyard, (03) 6442 5105, $220 per double per night, cloud9trysts.com. au) in Table Cape is a luxury selfcontained farm stay in a converted barn. And if you want to really get away from it all, either Eagles Nest Retreat (3 Browns Rd, West Kentish, (03) 6491 1511, eaglesnestretreat.com.au, $350 per night per double, includes breakfast), which has breathtaking views of Mount Rolan, or the secluded Hide-away Cottage Retreat (500 Ridgley Hwy, Burnie, (03) 6435 7330, $110 per double per night) should fit the bill. d. map key @ VDL Stanley... 2 41 Degrees South...18 Ashgrove Farm Cheese...17 Barringwood Park...14 Beachside Retreat... 1 Burnie Farmers Market... 5 Delish Fine Foods... 6 Devonport Farmers Market... 9 Fish Frenzy... 5 Fourways Fruit & Veg... 9 Glencoe Rural Retreat...13 Glo Glos...15 Gourmet 2 Go... 9 Groovy Penguin Cafe... 8 Harbour Houses... 3 Hellyers Road Distillery... 7 House of Anvers...15 Lake Barrington Vineyard...12 Madsen Boutique Hotel... 8 Muddled... 5 National Foods Cheese Tasting Centre.. 7 Petuna Seafoods...10 Providore 24... 2 Seven Sheds...16 The Winged House... 4 Wild... 8 Wilmot Hills Vineyard...11 illustration: priscilla nielsen 54 delicious.