R obert S inskey V ineyards LIBRATION, LOS CARNEROS, NAPA VALLEY, 2013
Libration, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 2
WHAT IS BALANCE? by Rob Sinskey And the Answer Is I m not a professor I only play one on TV! This derivation of an old joke is not too far from the truth. Armed with a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree, I m no scientist, but I practice what could be called folk or observational science, sort of a truth according to Rob (or Jeff, or Maria, or Debby). I use these writings to ruminate over a vexing issue or help an idea coalesce by connecting the dots of thirty years of observation - and try to find direction from nature. Years of observation have taught me that the guiding principle in all this is balance. Everything needs it. All successful life is dependent on it. Tilt the scales one way and the other side loses gravity. Too much success (as in reproductive or mono-cultural) and the result is disease, pestilence, a depletion (or excess) of nutrients or minerals and, eventually, demise. We humans are living the great experiment, constantly testing the limitations of our environment with an air of assumptive arrogance while other species end up as road kill on the superhighway to our future. This summer in California (and many parts of the world) has been extreme and, to some, a wake-up call. It will go down as one of the hottest years on record with the lowest snow pack in 500 years! The water temperature in the Pacific is the warmest ever recorded, changing ecosystems so quickly that we are now seeing sub-tropical fish on our coasts. As the water heats up, coral begins to bleach and die while shells of mollusks are compromised by increased acidification. As the heat added weight to one side of the scale, grasslands and forests struggled under a drought that was likely exacerbated by climate change. The stage was set for disaster. Napa, Lake, and many other Western counties burned. The Valley Fire not only burned hundreds of homes, but also hundreds of square miles of trees, possibly further tipping the scale in the direction of environmental degradation. Back in the 1920 s, Rudolph Steiner, the father of Biodynamic farming, believed it was the farmer s responsibility to heal an ailing earth by overcompensating for the damage done by mechanized agriculture. By observing, working with, and encouraging life-forces, the farmer could potentiate natural processes like the dynamic power of microbes to enrich and empower the soil or they could time farming processes with the lunar and celestial cycles, to create crops that not just benefit humankind, but also the environment. This way, we strike a deal with nature, agreeing to help where we can while creating the most nutritionally sound produce possible. Now it is time to take this philosophy beyond the farm and into our businesses and homes. We are an adaptable, successful species and, because of our success, we will add billions to our ranks within a lifetime, adding more weight, tipping the scale further. This pressure can only be alleviated if we overcompensate. Everyone can do their part, but the reality is those who can afford it are the most likely to have a greater impact by assuming the responsibility of repairing the damage done by a life out of balance. Only by doing more than our share can we coax the scales into equilibrium so our environment can gain the footing needed to replenish itself. As much as I believe nature has many of the answers, we can still use technology to mimic and help nature by investing in things that can support the earth while improving our quality of life. Simple things like investing in solar, geothermal, water reclamation, and new technologies to reduce or replace fossil fuel-burning vehicles from our roads, the creation of urban farms to supply local produce, and a platform so others can observe and learn about natural processes these are just a few ideas that are available today, and more possibilities lie with the ideas of tomorrow. Balance is the answer. Libration, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 3
The Label and the Name Libration is from the latin libratio (to level) and librare (to balance or sway) which in turn comes from libra or scales. In the most simplistic explanation, libration is that point as scales oscillate just before finding equilibrium. Libration is seeking balance. In astronomy, lunar libration is the oscillating motion of the moon, revealing a little more of its surface, as it rocks back and forth while orbiting the earth. Then there is the libration point, or Lagrangian Point, that can be plotted between two astral bodies where gravity is neutralized and one could park a spaceship, satellite, or asteroid at that point. The illustration on the label is by Al-Biruni (973-1048) showing the different phases of the moon and an eclipse. Winegrowing Notes Announcing the second release of Libration from RSV! It is the most approachable of RSV s Right Bank of Napa wines. Whereas Marcien is selected to be the most age worthy and POV requires just slightly less time, Libration is about pleasure with a gregarious nature that can be enjoyed a couple of years earlier than either. Same quality fruit, just a touch less oak for an elegant wine that strikes a balance with its juicy red fruits. The 2013 libration is grown in four of RSV s certified-organic, Los Carneros vineyards with three different clones and selections of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, bottled into 988 cases of 1.5 liter bottles. Tasting Notes - by Jeff Virnig Fistfuls of lush red berries and macerated strawberries, with humus, herbs, and warm spice aromas and flavors. There is a wonderful balance between the fruit, tannin, and acidity that can be enjoyed young but will continue to evolve for a few more years. RSV recommends serving the wine in the 56-58F range and, if you are to enjoy this wine in the near future, it will benefit from a splash in the decanter. Libration, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 4
LITTLE BITES FOR BIG BOTTLES I love a selection of little tarts for guests to enjoy as an appetizer before a meal or when friends stop by for a glass of wine. They look mouthwateringly beautiful served on a well-loved wooden board. A big, bouncing bottle of Libration is always festive and the perfect size for a group. This luscious beverage can be drunk now or later. It has, as we say in the wine biz, the stuffing. Drink one and lay one down to experience its evolution. Whichever path you choose, enjoy your big bottle with these little bites. Until the Next Wine... Maria Libration, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 5
CHARRED CHERRY TOMATO TART WITH BASIL SCENTED GOAT CHEESE When fresh tomatoes aren t available, top goat cheese with thin julienne of sun-dried tomatoes. Bake a little less so that the sun-dried tomatoes are caramelized on the edges but not charred. Serves 4 to 6 60 multi-colored cherry tomatoes Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Extra virgin olive oil 11 ounces fresh goat cheese, softened 5 finely chopped basil leaves 12 brisée rectangles 1½ inches by 5 inches, recipe follows 1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. 2. Slice just enough of the tomato tops off to make a flat surface. Place the tomatoes in a small bowl. Drizzle with olive oil, then season with salt and pepper to taste, and toss to coat. 3. In a small bowl, mix together the goat cheese and the chopped basil, season to taste with salt and pepper, and mix well to combine evenly. 4. Use a small knife or metal spatula to evenly spread about 2 tablespoons of the goat cheese mixture on each brisee rectangle. 5. Lay the tarts out on a parchment lined sheet pan. Top each tart with 4 or 5 tomatoes. Leave a small amount of space between each tomato. 6. Drizzle olive oil over the tops of the tomatoes and bake the tarts on the top shelf in the preheated oven for 20 to 30 minutes until the tomatoes are lightly charred and the goat cheese is golden. Serve warm or at room temperature. PUFFY CARAMELIZED ONION AND SPECK QUICHELETS I call these quichelets because they are 2 or 3 bite little quiches. Use the egg and cream as a base then feel free to substitute ½ cup of chopped cooked exotic mushrooms, or spinach and other meats such as crumbled pancetta or bacon. Add ¼ cup of shredded cheese such as Compte or Parmesan for another layer of flavor. Serves 4 to 6 1 cup heavy cream 2 large eggs Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Extra virgin olive oil 1 small yellow onion, sliced into very thin wedges 4 ounces thinly sliced Speck, chopped coarsely ½ teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme 12 brisée circles - 3 inch diameter, recipe follows 1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. 2. Take a 12-cup muffin tin pan and line each muffin tin cup with a brisée circle. Place the circle over the top of the cup and then press down and into the bottom of the cup and allow some of the dough to go up the sides to form a little pie crust. Prick on the bottom with a fork. 3. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and cream until smooth. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of fresh pepper. Reserve. 4. Heat a medium sauté pan over medium high heat. Add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan and then add the onions. 5. Cook the onions until they start to brown then add the speck and thyme, and continue to cook until the speck is crispy and the onions are soft and caramelized, season to taste with salt and pepper. Spread the mixture out on a plate to cool. 6. Once the mixture is cool, stir into the egg mixture. Divide the egg mixture evenly between the 12 lined cups. 7. Bake on the bottom rack of the preheated oven until the quichelets are puffed and golden. Serve warm or at room temperature. Libration, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 6
ROASTED JAPANESE EGGPLANT TARTLET WITH OLIVE TAPENADE Try thinly sliced zucchini in place of eggplant. Or bake the brisée circles with tapenade only and top with a slice of hard-boiled egg topped with anchovy or anchovy aioli. Serves 4 to 6 3 small 1½ diameter Japanese eggplants, trimmed and sliced thinly Extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons black olive tapenade 12 brisée circles 3 inch diameter, recipe follows 1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsley 1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. 2. Place the eggplant slices in a small bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and then season with salt and pepper. Toss to combine and let sit for 10 minutes. 3. Spread 1 teaspoon of tapenade evenly on each brisée circle. Place on a parchment lined sheet pan. 4. Overlap the eggplant slices tightly in a circle on top of the tapenade to make a pin wheel. 5. Drizzle with olive oil and bake in the preheated oven for 20 to 30 minutes until the eggplant turns golden the edges and crust is golden on the bottom. 6. Remove the tarts from the oven, sprinkle with parsley and serve warm or at room temperature. PÂTE BRISÉE DOUGH (PIE DOUGH) Roll the brisée dough shapes in advance and store in the freezer so they are ready to go when you need them. It makes it a snap to throw together the tarts and quichelets on the fly. Bake them just before guests arrive and serve warm from the oven. Yield: Enough dough for one double crust 10-inch pie 2 ½ cups all-purpose flour 1 ½ teaspoons salt 10 ounces (2 ½ sticks) unsalted butter 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 7 tablespoons ice water 1. Combine the flour and the salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. 2. Add the butter and mix with a paddle or by hand with a pastry cutter until it is the size of small peas. 3. Add the vinegar and then start adding the water gradually and mix until the dough starts to come together. Add only enough water to bring the dough together. The dough should be moist but it will not be completely uniform and its texture will be slightly crumbly. 4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Press it together gently to form a flat 1-inch thick patty and wrap it tightly with wax paper or plastic wrap. Let it rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before rolling to firm up the butter and allow the dough to relax. 5. The dough can be made ahead and frozen for up to three months well wrapped. Thaw in the refrigerator before rolling out 1 / 8 inch thick. Cut into desired shapes. Libration, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 7
FINE WINES. ORGANIC VINES. Robert Sinskey Vineyards 6320 Silverado Trail Napa, CA 94558 707.944.9090 robertsinskey.com Winemaker: Jeff Virnig Chef: Maria Helm Sinskey Photos and Text: Rob Sinskey Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum gluttons@robertsinskey.com