GRO?ING VEGETABLES FOR FI3E USE. Federal Cooperative Extension Service Oregon State College. Corvallis

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Transcription:

3U,rfl C.5 Vlc.3rlcl Extension CircuJ.ar 37'? (Rev, of Cir. 22) Ncvernber lj4i OCUMEPfl 3LLECTIS OLLECTIII A MONT}Y SCHEDULE OF SUGGESTED OPERATIONS IN GRO?ING VEGETABLES FOR FI3E USE by A. U. B. Bouquet - Horticulturist (Vegetable Crops) Federal Cooperative Extension Service Oregon State College Corvallis Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics Wm. A. Schoenfeld, Director Oregon State College and United States Department of Agriculture, Cooperating Printed and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914

v\b.3qq C Extension Circular 377 OOUMENT (Rev, of Cir. 282) LLECTIO QREGO,i LLET A MONTHLY SCHEDULE OF SUGGESTED OPERATIONS IN GROWING VEGETABLES FOR HOME USE November 1941 by A. G. B. Bouquet - Horticulturist (Vegetable Crops) This circular comprises in summarized form the operations which can be carried out to advantage in the growing of a fairly complete line of vegetables in the. home garden. The object of the publication is to suggest to the grower not only crops that should be planted, but also times at which they should be grown. In view of the wide variations in climatic conditions prevailing in dif ferent parts of the state, it is well to consider that vegetables automatically group themselves into three groups, in so far as relation to climate is concerned, and these are tabulated as follows: No. days Vegetables No. days No. days Vegetables seed to 1st moderately seed to Vegetables seed to tender to harvest hardy to first hardy to first frost (approx.) fros_ harvest frost harvest Asparagus 2-3 years Artichoke 1 year plants* plants Rhubarb 1 year Beet 50-60 Brussels 125-135 plants* sprouts Beans, bush 55-70 Carrot 75-90 Cabbage 85-150 Cucumber 60-70 Cauliflower 110-120 Cauliflower 275-300 broccoli Eggplant 100-120 Cabbage 80 French 110-120 Chinese endive Muskmelon 90-120 Chard, SwIss 60-75 Horseradish 110-120 Onion** 120-140 Celery 120-15 0 Kale 85-100 Pepper 90-110 Kohirabi 65-80 Mustard 60-70 Purnpkin+ 60-140 Lettuce 85-90 Parsnip 120 Sweet corn 75-110 Pea 65-85 Rutabaga 90 Squash 100-120 Radish 30-40 Salsify 110-120 Tomato 90-110 Celeriac 110-120 Spinach 42-60 Watermelon 110-120 Turnip 60-80 Sprouting 90 -- broco1i * Stalks + Summer Pumpkin, such as Zucchini, grows rapidly. Winter Bulbs Pumpkin takes full season.

The length of the frost-free season determines very largely when seeds of various crops should be sown or plants transplanted to the garden. The last frost in the swing and the first fall frost will have to be considered in this respect. It must be considered, too, that vegetables are likewise grouped into short or long season crops, which is an important factor, particularly if the season of a certain dtstrict has a comparatively short frost-free period. The short season vegetables include peas, spinach, lettuce, radish, turnips, beets, carrots, kohl-rabi, early cabbage, Chinese cabbage, mustard, whereas the long season crops include tomatoes, parsnips, oniont, egg plant, cucumber, salsify, peppers, melons, cauliflower, aquash, pumpkins, broccoli, beans, sweet corn, celery, kale, Brussels sprouts, and late cabbage. The schedule which is discussed in this circular will serve in general under conditions prevailing in the Willamette Valley arid must be modified for other sections of the state. No months in the year need be idle in so far as attention to vegetable gro'ãng matters is concerned. There are naturally some months of considerably more activity than others, but especial attention should be given to those times which are often eonsidered to be inactive mouths. J aniy Plan crops for either the home gardi or commercial plantings. A study o references and bulletins or ciroulars pertaining to crops is timely. Seed catalogues are beginning to arrive and can be studied with profit. It is a good plan to order seeds in January so as to be sure to have them on hand when desired. Some growers order their fertilizer needs during this month, thereby getting a discount on prices. Tools that need to. be repaired should be given attention. Early in January, the seed of greenhouse tomatoes should be sown, and during the latter part the month onion seed f or the transplanting of young onion plants in late March or early April. December and January are also good months in which to force rhubarb in the cellar or under benches in the greenhouse. February Forced rhubarb grown during January w:lll be available during this month. If there are none available, hotbed and. cold frame sashes should be obtained early this month and frames built to hold the same. Glass sash can be bought more cheaply than they can be homemade. Hotbeds of manure, hot air or electricity should be made up and started during February or the small greenhouse should be used for the starting of young plants. About February 1, the seed of early cabbage and lettuce should be sown. Celery seed may be sown the ]ast part of the month. If the seed of early onions for transplanting was not sown in late January, it could be sown sometime during early February. Tomato plants should not be started from seed before the last part of this month or quite early in March Plants for the spring crop of tomatoes under glass are set in the beds during February. 2

March If permissible, land should be prepared for the first outdoor seed sowings or transpiantings. Rotted manure may be turned under the ground and also some complete fertilizer broadcasted over the area and lightly worked into the soil. Asparagus area should be disked and smoothed. Cabbage and lettuce plants that were started during February will be ready for transplanting for the first time about 2 to 2jweeks following seeding. In early March, sow seeds of tomato, celery, eggplant, pepper, and the second lot of lettuce and cabbage under glass. The early cabbage arid lettuce plants that were started during the forepart of February will be large enough to be put in the cold frames and during March will be ready to be set out in the garden. Cauliflower seed for a summer crop should be sown during March. Early in March, tomato plants for a crop of greenhouse tomatoes are set in the beds In the field, early plantings may be made of spinach, peas, onion sets, lettuce, radish and turnips. If the cauliflower-broccoli can be grown, this will be harvested during March. Also, the first pulling of rhubarb grown out of doors is made toward the latter part of this month. If new plantations of asparagus and rhubarb are to be made, the plants should be set out, if the soil permits, during the latter part of March. See special circulars on individual crops. April This is one of the months of greatest activity in vegetable planting. In the work with young plants, those of tomatoes, celery, eggplant, and pepper will be first trarl8planted about three to four weeks after seeding. In the field there will be second seedings of lettuce, peas and spinach, as well as first seedings of beets, carrots, chard, and kohi-rabi. Toward the latter part of the month, the first lot of sweet corn may be planted as well as another sowing of lettuce seed. Cauliflower plants should be set out after frosts are over, and the first lot of tomato plants should be in the frames for hardening about the latter part of the month. One should have on hand some complete garden dust for early dusting of cabbage transplanted in March, and materials for the control of cutworms arid slugs will have to be available in case of spring outbreaks. Peas are dusted with rotenone for control of weevils and aphids. (See Extension Bulletin 551). Outdoor beds may be made up for making sowings of seed of late cabbage, cailiflower, kale, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts. During late April the first spinach and rhubarb will be harvested and there will also be cuttings of asparagus. The last of the cauliflower-broccoli will be harvested in April. There will also be some new chard growing from the plants of the previous year. Fertilizer applications by means of side dressings may be made to some of the early plants, such as early cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, peas, spinach, etc. Early celery plants are set out in the garden, preferably after the last frost.

4 Harvestings of asparagus and rhubarb continue and toward the end of the month are at the peak. There are also harrestirvs of the first spinach, green onions, radish and turnips, and at the last of the month first peas and head lettuce grown from early seedings or trans1anting3 of lettuce plants in lvarch. In the field, plants of tomato, pepper, eggplant, and celery should he set out after frosts are over. During May seedings are made of beans, sweet corn, melons, squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, parsnips, salsify, lettuce, and witloof chicory. If the outdoor seed beds for late cabbage and allied crops were not made up in late April, they shoi1d be made in early May. It will be necessary to use insect control material such as the All-in-One dust for various insects, such as aphis and green worms on cabbage and cauliflower. (See xt. Bul. 551) If there are timely rains, it may be desirable- to side dress with fertilizr some plants such as pepper, eggplant, celery, tomato, squash, cucumber, etc. (See Extension Bulleti.n 524.) Harvestings of greenhouse tomatoes usually begin in early May extending to the middle or last of July. June Harvestings continue of asparagus, rhubarb, peas, lettuce, spinach, and the first cuttings of early cabbage, and later on in the month, there will be harvestings of early carrots and beets. In the field, there will be transplant4ngs of plants of celery, fall cauliflower and cabbage; also seedings of late sweet corn, snap beans, lettuce for September, and late carrots and beets for fall and early winter. It will probably be necessary to practice some insect control for such plants as tomato, eggplant, beans, cucumber, squash, cabbage, cauliflower, etc. Irrigation of various crops will probably be necessary, depending upon weather conditions and rainf all..july Harvesting will occur of beets and carrots, the last lot of peas, summer cabbage, the first snap beans, summer cauliflower, lettuce, and the first lots of 'elery and tomatoes. In the field there will be transpiantings of plants of late celery, late cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, kale, and cauliflower; also seeding of fall lettuce and late beans.

5 It will probably be necessary to irrigate tomatoes, egg plants, peppers, melons, late carrots and beets, parsnips, late cabbage, etc. The latter crop, as well as other members of the cabbage family, must be dusted for aphis and green worms. August Daring this month, there will be harvestings of sweet corn, beans, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumber8, early celery, summer cabbage, transplanted onions and the first melons. If possible, there should be seedings of Chinese cabbage, fall spinach, mustard, turnip, radish, and lettuce. The work of irrigation of any crops that need it should be continued, and also necessary dusting or spraying for insect control. (See Extension Bulletin 551) September Harvestings of all summer crops will be continued. Many crops will reach their peak during this month. The first lbt of dry onions will be ready to pull and cure, Celery should be blanched for fall marketing. Squash and onions are harvested for later storage, as well as dry beans. If frosts appear imminent, the plants of tender crops should be covered with protecting material such as sacks or burlap. If any ground is available and fall rains permit, a cover crop should be seeded on unplanted land. If seedings of fall crops were not permissible in August, they seeded with the first fall rains of Septeuer. should be October Onions should be in storage, as well as squash and pumpkins, and also green mature" tomatoes and peppers. October is the peak month for cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, sprouting broccoli, celery, lettuce, and spinach. Harvestings should also be made of fall turnips, Chinese cabbage, mustard, kale, late carrots and beans, parsnips, and salsify. Any land where vines have been frozen, such as of tomatoes, sweet corn, beans, squash, melons, should be cleaned up and fall plowed. Plants for a spring crop of cabbage may be transplanted as well as the seed of peas arid lettuce sown. pyember There will be continued harvestings of late cabbage and allied crops, as well as celery, root crops, etc., as in October. Land which was not cleaned up in October should be completed and fall plowed or so to a cover crop. Tomatoes and squash in storage should be looked over and sorted if necessary. Manure and soil should be hauled for compostings under cover for the growing of young plants in the spring. Hot bed sash should be brought in for repair. Witloof chicory or French endive roots should be dug for forcing. In case of cold weather, root crops and cabbage may have to be stored.

Dec ember Hot bed sash should he Rhubarb should be dug and frozen for forcing. repaired and painted. Bulletins or circulars on vegetable growing should be obtained. Plans should be made for crops and methods of cropping land in the following year. If bean or pea seed has recently been threshed, it should be fumigated for weevil control, Seed for greenhouse tomato crop is usually sown in late December. Circulars on the growing of many of the ahove-rrentioned crops are available from the Clerical Exchange, Corvallis, Oregon, and those desiring the same should write to this address. Note also the followin: The Home Vegetable Garden, Extension Bulletin 552; Growing Fall and Early Winter Vegetables, Extension Bulletin 47; Storage of Vegetables, Extension Circular 339; cetable Growing fr 4-H Club Members, Club Series D-lO; and individual circulars on va:'ious crops such s aspragus, rhubarb, globe artichoke, snap beans, green peas, sweet corn, cabbage, caul1lwer, broccoli5 carrots, celery, canning beets, cucumbers for picl:1e3, Bru3seis sprouts, sweet corn, horseradish, lettuce, melons, onions, peas, peppers, squash and pumpkin, tomatoes, spinach, rhubarb growing, rhubarb forcing, hot bed construction, operation of cold frams, plant growing, insect control, etc, =,I.I.I.1.I.I.1,I.=