INKA CAPULI is a Natural Ingredient preservative free, organic certifiable, based on the highly functional fruit Goldenberry (Physalis peruviana) which was known and used as medicinal plant by the Pre Incas and Incas cultures. INCI Denomination: Propanediol (and) Water (and) Physalis Peruviana Fruit Extract Description of the plant: Family: Solanaceae Botanical Name: Physalis peruviana Linnaeus Synonyms: Other Names: Aguaymanto (Perú), Topotopo (quechua), Uchuba (Colombia), Description: P. peruviana L. is an herbaceous, semi-shrub, upright, and perennial in subtropical zones plant, it can grows until reach 0.6 to 0.9 mand in some cases can grow up to 1.8m. The flower can be easily pollinated by insects, wind and also by auto-pollination. Goldenberry fruits are succulent golden spheres the size of marbles with a pleasing taste. They are protected by papery husks resembling Chinese lanterns. The attractive and symmetrical husk with its edible yellow fruit inside gives it an eye-catching appearance. The goldenberry (Physalis peruviana) has long been a minor fruit of the Andes and is found in markets from Venezuela to Chile. It has also been grown in Hawaii, California, South Africa, East Africa, India, New Zealand, Australia, and Great Britain. So far, however, it has nowhere become a major crop. Nonetheless, this interesting and unusual botanical relative of potatoes and tomatoes has commercial promise for many regions. Distribution: P. peruviana L. is a native plant from the Andes region, transcending the history of the pre-incan and Incan periods, throughout South America. This plant has been kept
intact and without apparent changes in the structure of their germplasm. The centre of origin according to Legge in 1974 1 was the Peruvian Andes. Traditional Uses: In Peruvian traditional medicine the fruit of P. peruviana L., is used empirically to treat cancer and other diseases like hepatitis, asthma, malaria and dermatitis. Being a fruit used in Andean folk medicine since ancient times, most existing information is not guaranteed by scientific studies 2. Phytochemicals: The bioactive components present in the fruit of P. peruviana L. make this to be considered as a natural functional food, because the physiological properties associated with its nutritional composition. The fruit of P. peruviana L. is highly nutritious, having high levels of vitamins A, B and C (Table 1). The antioxidant activity is associated with this and to the high levels of polyphenols. Vitamin Composition of the Fruit Physalis peruviana Vitamin National Content (each 100 g of pulp) Research Council CCI (1994) (1989) Betacaroteno (Vit. A) 146 mg 648 U.I Tiamin (Vit. B1) in mg 0.1 0.18 Rivoflavin (Vit. B2) in mg 0.03 0.03 Niacin (Vit. B3) in mg 1.7 1.3 Ascorbic Acid (Vit. C) in m 43.00 26.00 Table 1: Vitamin composition of the fruitof Physalis peruviana 3 1 Legge, A., 1974 2 Zavala et al., 2006 3 L.A. Puente et al, 2011
Finally, the presence of exclusive Physalis-gender Physalins and withanolides specific from the Solanaceae family would give the fruit of P. peruviana L. anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anticancer properties, making them substances of great interest for future research. The main active constituents of P. peruviana L. are Physalins A, B, D, F and glycosides, which show anticancer activity 4. It has been shown that Physalins B and F have a potent suppressive activity by inhibiting the proliferation of lymphocytes, also has been shown to inhibit both the production of proinflammatory cytokines and activation of macrophages. These activities can help decrease inflammation and fibrosis, so it would be useful in treating immunemediated diseases. This suggests that some of the effects observed in traditional medicine plants in the genus Physalis, may be partly due to the action of these pseudo-steroids with immunoinflammatory action 5. Fig 1: The withanolides are steroidal lactones mainly produced by Solanaceous plants. Its components have antimicrobial properties, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, hepatoprotective or inmunomodulatory and antiparasitic activity 6. Lan et al. (2009) noticed seventeen withanolides found in P. peruviana L. Seven were recently discovered phyperunolid A, phyperunolid B, phyperunolid C, phyperunolid D, peruvianoxid, phyperunolid E, and phyperunolid F. 4 Wu et al, 2004 5 Rodríguez et al., 2007 6 Ahmad, Malik, Afza, & Yasmin, 1999
Withanolides isolated from Physalis peruviana. COSMETIC BENEFIT: Human skin is naked and is constantly directly exposed to the air, solar radiation, other environmental pollutants, or other mechanical and chemical insults, which are capable of inducing the generation of free radicals as well as reactive oxygen species (ROS) of our own metabolism. A free radical can be defined as a chemical species possessing an unpaired electron. It can also be considered as a fragment of a molecule. Free radicals, important for living organisms, include hydroxyl (OH ), superoxide (O2 ), nitric oxide (NO ), thyl (RS ), and peroxyl (RO2 ). ROS are usually of little harm if intracellular mechanisms that reduce their damaging effects work properly. But the problem arises with age, when endogenous antioxidative mechanisms and repair processes do not work anymore in an effective way. Extrinsic skin damage develops due to several factors: ionizing radiation, severe physical and psychological stress, alcohol intake, poor nutrition, overeating, environmental pollution, and exposure to UV radiation (UVR). UV induced generation of ROS in the skin develops oxidative stress, when their formation exceeds the antioxidant defense ability of the target cell. It is estimated that among all the environmental factors, UVR contributes up to 80% and it is the most important environmental factor in the development of skin cancer and skin aging.
Fig 4: Skin aging process due to oxidative stress The uncontrolled action of hydroxyl radicals the most damaging free radical by far can have devastating effects within the body. The hydroxyl radical is a third generation species of radical which is derived from hydrogen peroxide (H202), which, in turn, is derived from the superoxide radical through the action of the enzyme superoxide dismutase. INKA CAPULI shows antioxidant properties to fight against the oxidative stress which leads to skin aging. Efficacy Tests EVALUATION OF ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY Hydroxyl radical scavenging activity
The hydroxyl radical plays a significant role in the damage caused by the UV radiation and is more reactive towards the damage of the cellular constituents compared to the hydrogen superoxide and peroxide radicals. The antioxidant activity for the hydroxyl radical of the INKA CAPULI was determined according to the method described by Apak et al 7 where the Mannitol was used as compound of reference. This assay shows the abilities of the extract and standard mannitol to inhibit hydroxyl radical-mediated deoxyribose degradation. The results are shown in figure 6. The IC 50 values of the INKA CAPULI and standard in this assay were 22.95 ± 3.33 μg/ml and 39.99 ± 1.12 μg/ml, respectively. Hydroxyl Radical Scavenging Activity 39.99 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 Mannitol 22.95 INKA CAPULI IC50 (µg/ml) The IC 50 value indicates that INKA CAPULI has a very interesting activity; 43% higher hydroxyl radical scavenger potential than the standard Mannitol CONCLUSION INKA CAPULI is a novel innovative Natural Ingredient with Traditional Knowledge of use. INKA CAPULI could be use in cosmetic products as topical antioxidant that exert it effects by down-regulating free-radical-mediated pathways that damage skin. It is indicated for: 7 Apak R. et al., (2008)
Anti-aging treatments: Anti-free radical products. Protective products. Sun and after sun products. Body care products Dose of use Solubility Preparation 3QP INKA CAPULI EXTRACT is manufacture without preservatives, without GMO organism and without petroleum or animal derivatives. DOSE OF USE: From 1 to 10%. SOLUBILITY: PREPARATION: Water-soluble. The 3QP INKA CAPULI EXTRACT is a product sensitive to light, humidity and contact with iron. Preferably, it will be incorporated in the preparations at the end of the manufacturing process and below 35 C. Analytical Information Aspect: homogeneous liquid Odor: characteristic Color: Dark amber Solubility in water: miscible ph (20 C): 4.0 5.5 Specific gravity, 20 C: 1.040 1.070 PRESERVATIVES: None MICROBIOLOGY: Total aerobic mesophilic count: Total fungi and yeast count: Pathogens: 1000 ufc/ml 100 ufc/ml Absence PRESERVATION: Store in airtight container, protected from light and humidity, at 15 25 C. If the original container is opened, it should be handled with special care in order to avoid a secondary microbiological contamination. We provide our best knowledge about the subject; however, the formulator will have the responsibility to ensure the stability of the formulation by performing the necessary tests.
REFERENCES: BRACK EGG, Antonio, 1999, Encyclopedic Dictionary of useful plants of Peru. Cusco, Peru. Ahmad, S., Malik, A., Afza, N., & Yasmin, R. (1999). A new withanolide glycoside from Physalis peruviana. Journal of Natural Products, 62(3), 493 494. Borut Poljšak and Raja Dahmane, Free Radicals and Extrinsic Skin Aging, Dermatology Research and Practice, vol. 2012, Article ID 135206, 4 pages, 2012. doi:10.1155/2012/135206 L.A. Puente et al., Food Research International 44 (2011) 1733 1740. Lan, Y. H., Chang, F. R., Pan, M. J., Wu, C. C., Wu, S. J., Chen, S. L., Wang, S. S., Wu, M. J., & Wu, Y. C. (2009). New cytotoxic withanolides from Physalis peruviana. Food Chemistry, 116(2), 462 469. Legge, A. (1974). Notes on the history, cultivation and uses of Physalis peruviana L. Legge, A. (1974). Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, 99(7), 310 314. Mohamed Fawzy Ramadan. Bioactive phytochemicals, nutritional value, and functional properties of cape gooseberry (Physalis peruviana): An overview. Food Research International, Volume 44, Issue 7, August 2011, Pages 1830 1836 Rodríguez, S., & Rodríguez, E. (2007). Efecto de la ingesta de Physalis peruviana (aguaymanto) sobre la glicemia postprandial en adultos jóvenes. Revista Médica Vallejiana, 4(1), 43 52. Wu, S. J., Ng, L. T., Huang, Y. M., Lin, D. L., Wang, S. S., Huang, S. N., & Lin, C. C. (2005).Antioxidant activities of Physalis peruviana. Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 28(6),963 966. Zavala, D., Mauricio, Q., Pelayo, A., Posso, M., Rojas, J., & Wolach, V. (2006). Citotoxic effect of Physalis peruviana (capuli) in colon cancer and chronic myeloid leukemia. Anales de la Facultad de Medicina, 67(4), 283 289.