Brief History of Nordic Food 30. Cooking Information 50

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1 Introduction 12 Brief History of Nordic Food 30 Cooking Information 50 Recipes 56 Eggs and Dairy 60 Vegetables 84 Fish and Seafood 138 Poultry 192 Game 214 Meat and Offal 236 Charcuterie 290 Grains and Cereals 326 Breads and Savoury Pastries 368 Pastries, Biscuits and Sweets 398 Cakes and Tortes 433 Desserts 466 Basics and Condiments 500 Jams, Cordials and Sweet Soups 536 Drinks 558 Glossary 580 Directory 588 Index 592

2 POULTRY

3 POT-ROASTED CHICKEN Grydestegt kylling (Denmark) Grytstekt kyckling (Sweden) Pot-roasted chicken is a dish with a very old history. It seems logical that this was a practical way of cooking a whole bird until juicy and tender, without the use of an oven, as the pot itself creates a little miniature oven when placed on top of a heat source. The wood-fired cast iron stove, which offered the first really usable oven available to most modest homes that couldn t afford or fit a brick oven, was popularized in the mid-nineteenth century and it is easy to imagine this technique being way older than that. The funny thing is that, today, most recipes for pot-roasted chicken place the pot in the oven for the actual cooking as opposed to on the stove top. This is obviously very convenient, but also makes you question if it wouldn t be better to skip the pot altogether and roast the bird in an ordinary roasting pan to get some crispness on the skin Anyhow, I often make pot-roasted chicken in the oven and, even if it doesn t make sense, it still feels good somehow. In Denmark, chicken like this is often served with Boiled Potatoes (page 104), Gravy (page 524) and Quick Pickled Cucumbers (page 505). In Sweden the gravy is usually replaced with a Cream Sauce (page 520). Both the gravy and sauce options are usually flavoured with liberal amounts of Chinese mushroom soy sauce. Most Swedes would also want some Redcurrant Jelly (page 541) and some, including myself, like some Browned Brussels Sprouts (page 90) with their chicken. 200 ml/7 fl oz (scant 1 cup) white wine salt and white pepper To serve 1 batch Gravy (page 524) or 1 batch Cream Sauce (page 520), made with the chicken cooking liquid and flavoured with Chinese mushrooms soy sauce Boiled Potatoes (page 104) Quick Pickled Cucumbers (page 505) Redcurrant Jelly (page 541) Browned Brussels Sprouts (page 90) Follow the instructions for trussing a chicken on page 193. Season it well with salt and pepper, both inside and out. Melt some butter in a heavy cast-iron pan or a casserole (Dutch oven) over a medium high heat and brown the bird all over. Take the pan off the heat and sit the bird breast-side up. Add the vegetables, garlic and herbs then pour in the wine. Cover with a lid and bring to a simmer over a low heat (or place it in an oven, preheated to 150ºC/300ºF/ Gas Mark 2). Cook the bird for minutes, which makes it tender and juicy, or longer if you like it more well-done. When the chicken and vegetables are ready, strain and reserve the cooking liquid and set the chicken aside. Use the cooking liquid to make the gravy or cream sauce, as you prefer. Remove the string and carve the chicken. Arrange it on a serving platter with the vegetables from the pan. Serve the gravy or sauce on the side. Preparation and cooking time: 1¼ hours 1 chicken (liver, heart and gizzard reserved) butter, for frying 2 carrots, cut into medium pieces 8 small shallots 8 button mushrooms, whole, halved or quartered, depending on size 2 cloves garlic, crushed with the side of a knife 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs thyme Clockwise from top left: Sweet-and-Sour Red Cabbage (page 145); Roast Pork with Crackling (page 242); Quick Pickled Cucumbers (page 440); Boiled Potatoes (page 104); Cream Sauce (page 520); Pot-Roast Chicken (page 194) 5 Recipes / Poultry

4 TORE WRETMAN S MEATBALLS Tore Wretmans köttbullar (Sweden) The recipe for these mild and delicate meatballs comes from the grandfather of Swedish traditional cooking, Tore Wretman. I usually prepare them when I want meatballs to be part of the menu of a bigger meal, like Swedish Christmas dinner, rather than serving them as a dish on their own. For meatballs as a standalone dish, I prefer my grandma s coarser, leaner and more well-seasoned meatballs (page 282). Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes, plus cooling and swelling time butter, for frying 1 onion, finely chopped 100 g/3¾ oz (1¼ cups) fresh white breadcrumbs 200 ml/7 fl oz (scant 1 cup) cream 1 egg 200 g/7 oz minced (ground) beef 100 g/3½ oz minced (ground) veal 100 g/3½ oz minced (ground) pork salt and white pepper Melt a knob of butter in a pan over a medium heat. Add the onions and fry for about 10 minutes, or until soft and golden. Tip them out of the pan and leave them to cool down. Combine the breadcrumbs with the cream in a large mixing bowl and leave for a little while to swell. Add the cool onion and the egg, and mix everything together well. In a separate bowl, mix the beef, veal and pork so they are thoroughly combined. Add them to the bread and cream, season well then mix everything together. Shape the mixture into balls the size of a small walnut. Melt a knob of butter in a large frying pan or skillet over a medium heat. Fry the meatballs until nicely coloured and cooked through if you cut one open. It should take about 10 minutes. FAROESE MEATBALLS IN SAUCE Kjøtbollar (Faroe Islands) Preparation and cooking time: 1 hour butter, for frying Beef Stock (page 506), to cover Roux (page 512), to thicken Chinese mushroom soy sauce, to taste Boiled Potatoes (page 104), to serve For the meatballs 1 kg/2¼ lb minced (ground) beef 1 tablespoon plain (all-purpose) flour 1 egg 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant ½ cup) cream salt and white pepper nutmeg, ginger and allspice, to taste (optional) You can either finish the meatballs in the oven or on the stove. If you want to use the oven, preheat it to 150 C/300 F/Gas Mark 2. Combine all the ingredients for the meatballs in a large bowl, mix well and leave to rest for a couple of minutes. Shape the mixture into quite large balls a small handful of meat per meatball. Heat a little butter in a frying pan or skillet over a medium heat. Add the meatballs and fry them for about 15 minutes, or until nicely browned all over. Transfer them either to an ovenproof dish if you want to finish them in the oven, or to a pan if you want to finish them on the stove. Cover the meatballs with beef stock and simmer them in the oven or over a medium heat on the stove, until cooked through. Drain the meatballs and reserve the cooking liquid. Keep the meatballs warm while you make the gravy. Pour the cooking liquid into a pan, add enough roux to thicken and bring to a simmer, stirring continuously. Season to taste with soy sauce, salt and pepper and then return the meatballs to the sauce so that they are nicely glazed. Clockwise from top left: Mashed Potatoes (page 104); Tore Wretman s Meatballs (page 280); Quick Pickled Cucumbers (page 505); Lingonberry Jam (page 540) 7 Recipes / Meat

5 Clockwise from top centre: Cordial Soup (page 542); Baked Rice Pudding (page 470); Rice Pudding Dessert (page 340) BAKED RICE PUDDING Risgrynspudding (Sweden) Serve warm with Cordial Soup (page 542), or a spoonful of a jam you like (pages ) and some whipped cream. Preparation and cooking time: 40 minutes ½ quantity chilled Rice Porridge (page 340) 2 tablespoons sugar 1 egg To serve Cordial Sauce (page 542) or jam (pages ) whipped cream Preheat the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/Gas Mark 6. Stir the sugar and egg into the cold rice porridge. Pour the batter into an ovenproof dish to a depth of about 4 cm/1½ inches and bake for 20 minutes, or until fluffy and nicely golden on top. RICE PUDDING DESSERT Riskrem (Norway) Risalamande (Denmark) Ris a la Malta (Sweden) Chilled, sweetened rice porridge mixed with whipped cream started to become popular with the Danish upper class around the beginning of the twentieth century. The Danish name for the dish, risalamande, comes from the French riz à l amande rice with almonds which is, indeed, the way it is served in Denmark. The Swedish name, ris a la Malta, is presumed to derive from the Danish name, rather than having anything to do with the Island of Malta, and it changes the dish even further from the original French one. It also reduces the almond content in the process. In Sweden and Norway this dessert is often served with Cordial Soup (page 542) or with Berry Compote (page 496). Preparation time: 10 minutes 400 ml/14 fl oz (12 3 cups) cream ½ quantity chilled Rice Porridge (page 340) sugar, to taste Cordial Soup (page 542) or Berry Compote (page 496), to serve Whip the cream to soft peaks. Sweeten the porridge to taste it should be quite sweet then stir in about half of the cream so it is fully incorporated. Gently fold in the rest of the cream and serve. DANISH ALMOND RICE PUDDING Risalamande (Denmark) In addition to the chopped almonds, this dish is sometimes flavoured with bitter almond extract and it is often served with a Cherry Sauce (page 412). The tradition of hiding a whole almond in the Christmas Rice Porridge (page 340) is common in many Nordic countries and in Denmark it is practised with this dessert. The person who finds the almond receives a mandelgave (almond gift), which is often a marzipan pig. Preparation time: 10 minutes 400 ml/14 fl oz (12/3 cups) cream ½ quantity chilled Rice Porridge (page 340) sugar, to taste 1 2 drops bitter almond extract (optional) vanilla sugar, to taste or ½ vanilla bean, scraped (optional) large handful of blanched almonds, coarsely chopped Whip the cream to soft peaks. Sweeten the porridge to taste it should be quite sweet then add your choice of flavourings. Stir in about half of the cream so it is fully incorporated, then add the chopped almonds and fold them in with the rest of the cream and serve. 9 Recipes / Desserts

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7 SPECIFICATIONS Binding: Hardback Format: 270 x 180 mm (10⅝ 7⅛ inches) Extent: 608 pages Word count: 150,000 words Colour photographs: 230 Phaidon Press Limited Regent s Wharf All Saints Street London N1 9PA Phaidon Press Inc. 65 Bleecker Street New York, NY ISBN: Publication date: October Phaidon Press Limited