Artisan Cheese Making with Mary Karlin

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Dortha Beasley
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Basic Fresh Goat Chevre Chevre is the common name for spreadable goat cheese. This fresh cheese is easy to make and, once molded in the shape of a log, is the most recognizable goat cheese in the U.S.

1 Basic Fresh Goat Chevre Chevre is the common name for spreadable goat cheese. This fresh cheese is easy to make and, once molded in the shape of a log, is the most recognizable goat cheese in the U.S. It often has dried herbs or other flavorful additives blended into the cheese or coated on top. This version uses a pre-mixed, pre-measured blend of culture and rennet designed for making chevre. This is a perfect and simple method for any novice cheese maker to venture into making cultured cheese; the result is delicious chevre. Milk: Whole pasteurized goat s milk Making the cheese: 24 hours or more (½ hour, 2 hours ripening and 2 hours to drain) Yields: ½ pounds Equipment and Supplies Non-reactive, 6-quart stock pot Instant-read or dairy thermometer Flexible wire, long handle stainless steel whisk Mesh strainer or colander Butter muslin Ladle. Metal bowl or plastic bucket 2 Chevre cheese molds (optional) Draining box with rack (optional) Ingredients gallon pasteurized goat s milk at room temperature for hour packet direct-set mesophilic C20G starter ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

2 Basic Fresh Goat Chevre Steps: Heat the milk over a low flame to 86 degrees F. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for five minutes. Using a whisk and an up-and-down motion, draw the culture into the milk to distribute thoroughly. Cover and take off heat, maintaining a temperature of no lower than 72 degrees, allowing the milk to ripen for 2 hours. Tips: After the initial temperature of 86 degrees has been reached, with heat off, set the pot on a stove burner that s under a stove hood light to maintain the desired temperature. You can also place the covered pot in another warm area of the kitchen. Either ripen during the day to drain at night or ripen overnight to drain the next morning. The curds are ready when they have formed one large mass in the pot. The mass will be the consistency of thick yogurt and the whey will be floating around the sides of the pot. The whey will be very clear. Place a strainer or colander over a bowl or plastic bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line the strainer with a single layer of dampened butter muslin and gently ladle the curds into it. Gently toss the curds with the salt then tie the cheesecloth into a sack, insert a wooden spoon to suspend the sack and hang to drain over your bucket. Leave to drain at room temperature (72 degrees) for 6-2 hours. The longer the curds drain, the drier the finished cheese will be. Tip: If you want a soft, creamy consistency, drain for six or so hours. If you want to create a log of chevre, let the curds drain for up to 2 hours so the cheese can be formed more easily. Option: Rather than gravity draining in bulk, in a sack, you can fill two chevre molds, which sit on a draining rack to drain, for the same amount of time. Flip the curds once during the draining process. Remove the cheese from the cheesecloth and store refrigerated in a covered container for up to one week. End 2 Copyright 2009, Mary Karlin and Ten Speed Press

3 Simple Direct Acid Mozzarella Mozzarella is the best-known cheese of the pasta filata family - meaning it is cheese spun or pulled from curd. Traditionally made with water buffalo milk, almost all of the mozzarella made in North America is made with cow s milk. This home-crafted formula is made with readily available, pasteurized, whole cow s milk and melted in whey brine. This style of mozzarella is made by direct acidification (distilled vinegar and rennet) to create coagulation rather than utilizing a thermophilic bacteria culture and the multi-hour development used to create the more flavorful traditional mozzarella featured in Artisan Cheese Making at Home. This version takes about one hour to make and is very tasty for a simple, melting cheese. Yield: About pound (8-0 balls, depending upon size) Equipment and Supplies 2 Non-reactive heavy core bottom stockpots; 8-quart and 6-quart Instant-read or dairy thermometer ph papers (optional) Measuring spoons small dish for diluting rennet Flexible-wire, long-handle stainless steel whisk Food-grade, flexible, wideblade, rubber spatula Curd-cutting knife or 0 cake decorating spatula Butter muslin or cheesecloth Mesh strainer or colander Stainless steel slotted spoon or ladle 2 stainless bowls for heating curds Heat resistant neoprene-coated or latex gloves for handling hot curds (optional) Food-grade container with lid for whey brine (optional) Ingredients gallon pasteurized (non-homogenized) whole cow s milk, out of refrigeration for one hour 8 tablespoons (4 ounces) white distilled vinegar (5 percent acidity) ¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool, non-chlorinated water ¼ cup kosher salt (more for whey and brine solution optional) 3

4 Simple Direct Acid Mozzarella Steps: Using the two-pot water bath system, warm the milk to degrees in the inner pot. Pour the vinegar over the milk and then stir constantly with a whisk using an up-anddown method. Option: If checking the ph, the goal ph is Start by adding seven tablespoons of vinegar and if ph is higher, add one more teaspoon of vinegar and check ph again. If ph is still higher than 5.50, add another small amount of vinegar again to reach the goal. Eight tablespoons should be the most you will need. Incorporate the diluted rennet in the same way. Cover and turn off heat. Let set for five minutes. Curds will start to set up in two minutes. The curds will be the consistency of thick, solid yogurt at this point, and the whey will be clear and distinctly separated from the curds around the edges. Test for a clean cut. If curds are soft and don t create a clean cut, let the curds set for five more minutes and test again. Cut the curds into half-inch pieces and let rest for five minutes. Then gently stir with a spatula for five minutes to firm up the curds. Allow curds to settle for five minutes. Using a skimmer or slotted spoon, remove the curds from the pot and place in a cloth-lined colander or strainer set over a bowl to capture the whey. Combine all of the whey into the milk pot and keep warm. Place the colander of curds over this warm whey, cover with the cheesecloth and gently press the curds just to bind them together into a slab. Cover the clothed curds with a lid to keep the curds warm and allow more whey to drain into the pot. Optional stopping point: You can stop at this stage and store the curd for melting and shaping another day. The curds can be placed in cold, non-chlorinated water and chilled. The water can then be drained off and the curd can be packed in plastic bags or vacuum-sealed and stored at 38 degrees (home refrigerator). The curd can be kept for up to seven days before stretching. The curd can also be frozen and kept for up to a month and thawed in refrigeration before using. Stir ¼ cup of salt into the whey to dissolve and heat to degrees. Keep the curds in the colander over the pot as the whey heats up to bind them together. Maintain the temperature throughout the rest of the process. Take the curds out of the cheesecloth, place on a cutting board, cut into half-inch slices or thin French-fry sized strips and place in a shallow bowl. Cover with hot whey. Allow to heat through so that they stick together into a mass and then knead this into a smooth loaf of dough. You will need to replace the hot whey one or two times until the curds are soft and pliable. 4

5 Simple Direct Acid Mozzarella The whey and the curds must stay hot to have pliable curds. Portion into desired amounts (the yield is typically 8-0 balls per gallon of milk used) and place in a second shallow stainless bowl. Cover with hot whey to heat through. When hot and pliable, knead each until smooth and then pull the dough into a short rope and shape into balls. The curds will start out grainy, but through kneading and repeated heating they will become smoother. Repeat until the curds are shiny and smooth. Dip in the hot whey to be able to stretch. If shaping a ball, place in the palm of your hand and by pushing the curds through your thumb and forefinger, stretch the surface of the ball to become tight and shiny, as though forming a pizza ball. Press the underside edges up into the center of the ball to stuff the ball and create a smooth, tight surface. Pinch off and twist to create the finished ball and immediately place in a bowl of ice water to chill and firm up. Remove once the exterior is firm, after about three minutes. Storing Options: Place the chilled cheese in a chilled brine solution (eight parts water to one part salt) for 20 minutes, turning over a few times. Remove from the brine and use immediately or store refrigerated and individually wrapped in plastic film for up to 4 days. If storing in a liquid solution, to inhibit the development of a slightly slimy surface on the cheese, make the solution from the whey saved from the cheese making, two ounces salt and one tablespoon calcium chloride. Or store in a liquid solution without the whey, but with one gallon of distilled water, two ounces salt, one tablespoon calcium chloride and one teaspoon distilled vinegar. NOTES: When using pasteurized (non-homogenized) cream-top milk: The cream will need to be incorporated into the milk before adding the vinegar. Gently warm the milk to 70 degrees to lightly melt the clumps of cream. Gently whisk to incorporate the cream as best you can. Let the milk settle and come to rest (no foam and bubbles). Heat the milk as described in the recipe before adding the vinegar. Add the rennet as described at temperature listed in instructions. Follow the rest of the instructions. Yield will be less; about 6-8 balls, depending upon size. When using raw (non-pasteurized or homogenized) milk: Increase the vinegar by½ teaspoon. Follow the rest of the instructions as written. Yield will be less; about 6-8 balls, depending upon size. End 5 Copyright Mary Karlin

6 Farmhouse Chive Cheddar There are a wide variety of cheeses known as cheddars. Some of the most familiar ones such as American Brick or Colby are considered American classics and were created in the U.S. The capitol of cheddar cheeses is the U.K., which is known for Caerphilly, Irish Cheddar and many other cheeses. Cheddars might be the color of the milk used or orange if colored with natural annatto liquid. Cheddars are often flavored with dried herbs and fruits, soaked in beer or whiskey, or simply smoked. Milk: Whole cow s milk Making the cheese: 3 hours and 7 hours pressing, -3 months aging Yield: pound Equipment and Supplies 8-quart pot for water bath (does not need to be non-reactive) Non-reactive 6-quart stockpot with lid Instant-read or dairy thermometer Measuring spoons 3 small dishes for diluting annatto, calcium chloride and rennet Flexible wire, long-handle, stainless steel whisk Food-grade, flexible-blade, rubber spatula Curd-cutting knife or 0 - cake decorating spatula Mesh strainer or colander Butter muslin or cheesecloth Metal bowl or plastic bucket for draining curds One 5 Tomme mold with follower PLUS 5-pound and 8-pound weights or A two-pound cheese press (optional) Food-grade container for brine Baking sheet, drying rack and cheese mat for air drying (set up ahead) Liquid wax Brush Cheese wax Cheesecloth for bandaging (optional) 6

7 Farmhouse Chive Cheddar Ingredients gallon whole cow s milk (not ultra-pasteurized) ¼ teaspoon Meso II starter ¼ teaspoon liquid annatto diluted in ¼ cup cool, non-chlorinated water ¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool, non-chlorinated water This farmhouse cheese is a beautiful, rustic cheddar made without using the traditional and slightly more involved cheddaring process of milling the curds before shaping and pressing. Annatto and dried chives are added for flavor and create a lovely color complement to each other. The orange color will intensify as the cheese ages. If waxed and aged for only one month, the cheese will be creamy and moist. For those new to aging cheeses, waxing is the best method for protecting the cheese while it quietly ages inside the wax exterior. If you choose to cloth-bandage your cheddar and allow good mold to grow, the cheese will be allowed to ripen in a cellar environment for three months to develop flavor and transform into a classic, crumbly cheddar. You can also use this recipe for making a simple farmhouse cheddar without chives or annatto for a simple, delicious cheese. Goat s milk or mixed milk can be used as well. ¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool, non-chlorinated water ½ teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon dried chives Butter or lard (if bandage wrapping rather than waxing) Brine (Near-saturated 22-percent): 4 ounces kosher salt to 2 quarts cold, non-chlorinated water; stored at degrees. Farmhouse Chive Cheddar Steps: Using the water bath method, heat the milk over a low flame to 86 degrees. Sprinkle the starter over the surface and let rehydrate for five minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintaining 86 degrees, ripen the milk for 45 minutes. Add the dissolved annatto and stir gently with a whisk using an up-and-down motion for one minute. Add the calcium chloride and whisk in using the same method. Add the dissolved rennet and stir gently with a whisk using an up-and-down motion for one minute. Cover and let set off heat, at 86 degrees for minutes or until the curds give a clean break when cut with a knife. If there is no clean break, wait a few minutes more. While maintaining 86 degrees, cut the curds into half-inch cubes and let set for five minutes. 7

8 Farmhouse Chive Cheddar Over low heat, bring the curds to 02 degrees, increasing the temperature slowly over 20 minutes. Then stir the curds gently for 5 minutes or until they start to firm up. Stir to keep curds from matting together. The curds will firmed up to the size of peas. Let the curds rest and sink to the bottom of the pot. Allow the curds to remain undisturbed for 30 minutes. Using a measuring cup, remove enough whey to expose the curds. Stir continuously for 0 minutes or until the curds are matted and cling together when pressed in your hand. Place a strainer or colander over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for three minutes. While warm, toss in the salt and chives with your hands and mix thoroughly. Gently transfer the drained curds in cloth to the cheese mold, pull the cloth up tight and smooth out any wrinkles. Cover with the tails of the cloth and press lightly at 5 pounds of pressure for one hour. Or place curds in the cheese press and apply the proper pressure. Remove the cheese from the mold, peel away the cheesecloth, turn the cheese over and re-dress with the cheesecloth. Press again at 8 pounds of pressure for six hours. Make the near-saturated brine by combining the salt and water in a noncorrosive bucket or container with lid. Remove the cheese from the mold and cheesecloth and place in the brine. Cover and let the cheese soak at 55 degrees for six hours, flipping the cheese over once in that time frame. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Place on a cheese mat (set on a rack to air dry at room temperature) to set up the rind for approximately 24 hours or until the surface is dry to the touch. Rub off any mold spots that might develop with a piece of cheesecloth rung dry of a salt-distilled vinegar solution used for controlling mold. Wax the cheese and age at 50 degrees for four to eight weeks, turning the cheese once a week for even ripening. If waxed, this aging can be done in the vegetable bin at the bottom of your refrigerator. Bandaging option: Rub the entire surface with butter or lard, cloth bandage the cheese and place in degrees ripening environment, turning weekly, for two to three months. Mold will appear on the surface, however much of that is actually growing on the cheesecloth, not the cheese. Brush off any undesirable mold that builds on the cheesecloth during the aging. When ready to consume, the cheesecloth is removed, taking much of the mold with it. If desired, brush off an additional mold that may be on the surface of the cheese. End 8 Copyright 2009, Mary Karlin and Ten Speed Press

BEFORE YOU START 400 F.

BEFORE YOU START 400 F. Fresh Cheese Kit Let s Make Cheese! Welcome to cheesemaking! We are excited to join you on this journey. Inside this kit you will find the supplies and recipes you need to make a variety of fresh cheeses.