International Symposium on KITCHEN DEBATE DEBATA O KUHINJI The Reginal Museum Maribor October, 2017

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1 International Symposium on KITCHEN DEBATE DEBATA O KUHINJI The Reginal Museum Maribor October, 2017 The Savoury Flavour of the Egg : Washoku, Traditional Japanese Food, Spirituality, and Healing Yuko Nishimura I am Yuko Nishimura, a food journalist from Japan. Japan and Slovenia are far apart on the map, but both countries are close in terms of their abundant natural environment. Japan is surrounded by the sea and two-thirds of the land is forested. Traditional Japanese culture is based on this perception of nature. I am honoured to be here today to talk about traditional Japanese culture from the perspective of food. What is going on in Japan? First, let me touch upon my reason for joining this symposium. Truth be told, I brought a single message from Japan the message of peace, which is the underlying philosophy of Japan s traditional culture that some consider ancient wisdom. We are now in S-love-nia. The letters of the country reveal the word love, so I came to the country of love to tell you about peace that peace is found in our hearts. Before moving on to food, let s talk of the times we all live in now. Climate change has caused natural disasters that continue to affect our daily lives while some European p. 1

2 cities have suffered from man-made disasters like terrorist attacks. I suppose many people live in anxiety each day. As covered in an article I wrote titled The Savoury Flavour of the Egg : Washoku, Traditional Japanese Food, Spirituality, and Healing, people in Japan, too, live in anxiety. If this fact piques your interest, you must watch the documentary film Saving 10,000 Winning a War on Suicide in Japan, produced by the Irish director, Dr. Rene Guignan. He is actually an economist for the Delegation of the European Union to Japan. The film shows the real face of Japan and deals with reducing suicide in the country. You will not come across this face if you visit Japan as a tourist. It is apparent that there is need for action. I have been working on this challenge from the perspective of food. Japan s traditional food culture has a precious heritage that has long supported a healthy body, mind, and spirit. The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) inscribed this food culture on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in Today, I would like to tell you two stories about Japanese food; one that focuses on its practical application and philosophy and the other, on its food journey. Japanese food: its practical application and philosophy A recent archaeological research reveals that before rice farming techniques came to Japan in the third century B.C., the ancient Japanese called jomon ate nuts, seasonal p. 2

3 plant-based and occasionally animal-based foods that they hunted and raised. Archaeological findings indicate that the jomon worshipped nature, which shows that they had love and gratitude for nature in their minds and hearts. They coexisted with nature, enjoyed peace, and realised communal diversity for thousands of years. In later years, Japan imported rice cultivation techniques and Buddhist principles from China and Korea. Although Japanese climate was not suited for rice cultivation, those in power at the time implemented the farming policy nationwide, after witnessing the success of rice farming in the southern part of China. Constant efforts were made to improve breeds of rice, generation after generation, to prevent crop failure. This is the story of how rice became Japan s principal food item. Recent scientific findings reveal that brown rice the unrefined form of rice has various functional food components. They are: (1) γ-oryzanol (which adjusts autonomic nerve functions), (2) phytic acid (an anti-oxidant), and (3) ferulic acid (which prevents or treats dementia). The Japanese followed a vegetarian diet for over 1,000 years. This was associated with the Buddhist idea of not taking another s life. Buddhism was officially introduced to the country in the sixth century A.D. The Emperor banned meat-eating in 675, but the ban was lifted in 1871 after the Meiji Restoration, so the country could be at par with the West. The traditional diet included rice and locally produced plant-based foods, seasoned with salt and fermented flavourings such as soy sauce and miso, or soya-bean paste. My interest in learning about dietary habits goes back to my childhood. I was not p. 3

4 physically strong when I was younger, so I tried a traditional Japanese medical diet, which vastly improved my health. Thankfully, I am fine now. Medical check-ups do not show any major problems. In Oriental medicine, the body, mind, and spirit are closely related. If your mind and spirit are in good shape, then so is your body. On the contrary, if your mind and spirit are ill, your body is ill. Having reformed my physical constitution, I can now say with certainty that the most economical and effective way to realise overall fitness is through the application of traditional Japanese food philosophy. Let me give you an example: I began to learn the tea ceremony when I was in secondary school. In the sixteenth century, Japanese tea master Sen no Rikyu, established the wabi sabi philosophy in tea rituals and meals served during the ceremony. The wabi sabi philosophy is related to Zen Buddhism. Since the Japanese have worshipped nature from the outset, the Japanese culture is based on the perception of nature. Therefore, the wabi sabi philosophy also captures beauty and truth in nature. The words wabi and sabi literally mean solitude or aloofness. We cannot escape from anxiety, but we can learn how to face such feelings and change our outlook for the better. The tea ceremony enabled me to make time for meditation and attain inner peace. The wabi sabi philosophy combined with my Japanese medical diet helped me find balance in body, mind, and spirit. When I entertain overseas guests, I greet them with a cup of matcha (green tea) and a p. 4

5 piece of wagashi (sweet bean paste cake). As I do not have a traditional Japanese tatami (mat) room in my current house, I serve my guests matcha on the dining table. My friend from San Francisco loved this modern-style tea ceremony and bought matcha powder and a special bamboo blender called chasen before she left Japan. While we have special matcha cups in Japan, I personally do not think you need to buy them as your regular cups will do. As matcha is bitter, it s best to eat some sweets before drinking this green tea. Your favourite sweets, such as chocolate cakes, will go well with matcha. Last year, I held a Japanese food workshop in Paris. In the workshop, I met a man who had built a Japanese tea room in his house by himself. He looked French but I believe his heart was Japanese. I learnt then, that in the age of globalisation, those who share a love for Japanese culture are not necessarily the Japanese alone. Japanese food is art; it has a philosophy, it looks and tastes good, and most importantly, it helps you stay fit. I would like you to try it. Culinary journey of Japanese food The second story is about my food journey. Why do I share my Japanese food experiences internationally? My food journey started when I spent a year studying in London after completing my graduation in journalism from Tokyo. When I arrived, however, I realised I did not know anything about my country, although I was born and raised in Japan. I was like a computer with no installed software. I envied other p. 5

6 international students, as they talked about their country with confidence. This realisation made me more aware of my country s food culture, and I came to share this knowledge with the international community. After completing a workshop in Milan last year, I spent a couple of days vacationing in Slovenia. I visited St. Francis Church in Koper and joined a Japanese flower arrangement event which was organised by the Japanese embassy. At the church, I happened to meet Dr. Mirjana Koren, Director of the Reginal Museum Maribor and learnt that the museum would be holding this very kitchen symposium. On my return to Japan, I put together an article on my country s food culture and sent it to the museum and here I am. I heard Slovenians are very aware of fitness and have easy access to organic food throughout the country. I have been looking forward to sharing my ideas with you. Each country has its own unique traditional food and culture. Japanese culinary techniques are now being implemented internationally, as people are becoming more health conscious. Chefs, worldwide, are learning how to produce umami a delicate and savoury flavour activated by glutamic acid that is found in Japanese fermented seasonings. This vastly improves the quality of their dishes. Indeed, a kitchen is like a laboratory there are passionate scientists as well as artists in a kitchen. In order to respond to this global trend, I will be holding Japanese food seminars at local cooking schools in Ljubljana and Bled and will also be meeting with top Slovenian chefs to exchange food ideas. p. 6

7 Food connects people. When we bond over good food and drinks, we unite as a global family without boundaries. With warm feelings in our hearts and hearty dishes that inspire us, the world can move forward peacefully. Following the underlying philosophy of Japanese culture, i.e. peace, I hope to create something new in harmony with Slovenian chefs and chefs worldwide. As I said at the beginning, peace is in our hearts. No one can give it to you, but your own heart can produce it. I always believe in this, and hope that you find this peace in your heart as well. I would like to conclude my presentation with a small message: we are full of love and have peace in our hearts. Thank you all, very much Hvála lepa. p. 7

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