Romania, the large experiment.

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John Thornton
5 years ago
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2 Romania, the large experiment. Romania exported wine to Norway a few decades ago. Some may still remember those days. The quality wine production in the country is however young. S.E.R.V.E, the country's oldest wine producer was founded in Before that it was communism and mass production. It is not history fix, but it has led to widespread experimentation among the country's best wine producers. The Countess of Poix welcomes us with colorful umbrellas when we arrive Serve. We are served a lovely local pâté, and a variety of wines. There have not been so many International commentators visiting yet, and we notice that there is a certain tension in air. We feel the same on every visit. SERVE have older vineyards, partly because they are the oldest, partly because they also bought vineyards that existed under the communist regime. It is noticeable through the concentration in the wines. This wine yard is not experimenting so much. They have found a style. SERVE has probably the country's most refined fragrance of the wines, an almost burgundies scented tone, unfortunately overrun by a slightly hefty use of barrels. Maybe they come around with age. But we come to a level where fine-tuning is what remains. And that some wine drinkers is far more fond of woodwork than yours truly. Davino is also one of the producers whose wine yards are older. Their simpler cuvées are just simple, but they also make the country best wines at their peak. Here there are some barrels, alcohol and rich fruit, but Flamboyant and Reserve is truly magnificent and delectable wines. Also here is the fine-tuning the way and go, if needed. Lacerta is the house where it is experimented. They were one hundred percent open about it. It was liberating to talk to winemakers in Romania, who do not hide anything. One discussed openly and willingly about issues and challenges. It was quite liberating. And they tackled criticism better than any other wine region or country I have been in. They know the target is not reached. Lacerta experimenting with grape varieties in the vineyards, what fits, what does not fit, use of oak, time in barrels, toast no, type of wood, where the plants has grown? French oak barrels, Slovenian, or in Romania? Only wine cellar I been to where I've seen barrels of hard toast including lids at each end of the barrel. For experiment's sake. You make over twenty different wines today; the goal is to come down in about ten wines within a decade. But even with young vines that provide little concentration and complexity, and a winemaking now looking intently after finding it correct expression for the region, one sees well craftsmanship behind. Lacerta can be an exciting producer to follow in the years ahead.

Alira has reached some really great wines, including the best Rose I have tasted throughout the year. an incredible purity and great balance in the wine.

But it requires that a rabbi does all the work while wine maker only supervises. The guidance must have been particularly good in their first vintage.

3 Alira has reached some really great wines, including the best Rose I have tasted throughout the year. an incredible purity and great balance in the wine. At one also a great merlot made on koscher way. The many Jews vacationing in Romania, create a market for koscher wine in the country. But it requires that a rabbi does all the work while wine maker only supervises. The guidance must have been particularly good in their first vintage. Antinori has also taken off in Romania with ViIla Metamorfosis, here we tasted great seen first volume of all wines. Antinori group is in excess fond of fat for my liking, something one knew evident here too. but with Considering that it is very young vineyards must one can say that the future looks exciting for Antinoris Romanian adventure. Their top wines is great already now, I think that when the vineyards here passing fifteen years their wines begins to be really fun. We know however, that the road is long and the vineyards need time.

4 Liliac shows a series of fresh and elegant white wines, very accurate in expression. This was the first house we tasted wines from the tour and it was quite surprising. Here disappeared prejudices on a conveyor belt. Balla Geza was also included in this tasting and some of the journey very best wines were tasted here. Their Stone Wine series are great wines, but unfortunately made only tiny amounts of these. Up to a few thousand bottles. Perhaps the best cadarcaen and Furmint I tasted comes from this yard. The wines show a finely focused style and distinctly minerality with finely balanced use of barrels on those wines that have been on tap. It is this trend that is spreading in Romania. Foreign investors find it too expensive to do something new in Western Europe, while here you can still buy land without emptying a bank or two. Winemakers are either foreign or local who has taken their education abroad. This applies of course maybe just to the fifteen best houses in the country, but it must start somewhere. Everything in Romania is at its beginnings. The visit felt like you had arrived in the country just after they had received a eureka experience. We visited several wineries, and tasted much wine. Since none of these are available in Norway it is not appropriate to mention all. As I wrote on my website a little while ago, it is a long time since I received one wine list in a restaurant and not knowing the wine names, grape varieties and wine regions. One becomes a little awkwardly in the elections. Five days afterwards I could discuss grape varieties and manufacturers with the sommelier. But just that, even sommeliers, how hard they than trying are miles behind what one are used to here at home. It is a whole culture in Romania who desperately need training. The country's best wine shop was more exciting than an average level Norwegian wine store, whether should just stop by and bring a bottle, but if one include the selection on Vinmonopolets selection for ordering, it becomes a small selection. However impressive that a man has managed to find as many goodies when there is no culture for the country. It is the culture of wine, but just five years ago it was almost impossible finding a dry red wine in the country, apart from a few top properties, and wines from here is anyway too expensive for most people. The grape variety was also unknown although there was a good variety of the more common grapes. Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot noir and Riesling was of course in place. Feteasca alba, a light, fresh grape variety that only one wine proved forward with a new depth, and a flavor profile which was so like another grape variety, Feteasca Regala that I almost suspect that producers have exchanged some vineyards. Feteasca alba is a good wine to drink on holiday in Romania, an unassuming and proper white wine is refreshing. An excellent wine to enjoy relaxing on the terrace. Feteasca Regala has an amazing citrus tone, the best practically oozes citrus flowers, oranges, orange peel and bergamot.

Some of orange and sun-ripened lemons aromas supplied in the

familiar with, but wines emerging as spicy, mineral and

5 Some of orange and sun-ripened lemons aromas supplied in the mouth where it also shows a nice minerality. An exciting and distinctive white wine. Tamairoasa romaneasca is not a grape variety we were very familiar with, but wines emerging as spicy, mineral and smoke-like in expression. Busuioaca the bohotin was also not a grape variety we got something good impression, the

6 timely neutral out in from what we tasted. The country's big red seems being Feteasca Neagra, one grape variety if tannins ripen slowly, and it's good with them. It enables when the tannins finally are mature is usually sugar levels all achieved fourteen percent potential alcohol and the races away therefrom. Picking window is only on some days not wishing themselves fifteen percent alcohol in wines. Feteasca Neagra can show both impetuous, tannic and heavy wines but can also show an elegant floral tone toward violets and raspberry's red fruit with a darker fruit core. An exciting grape variety I would assume that the locus and further vineyard knowledge could tame something over the next ten years. It`s nothing suggesting that this is not a grape variety which will also withstand a long time in the basement without I know how aroma pictures it will develop overtime. Negru de dragasani is another red wine grape with great potential. we tasted very few wines of this, but it is hardly planted in the country. Only 17 hectares are with this grape throughout Romania. But grape shows potential to be something exciting, and one of the winemakers in Antinoris Viila Metamorfosis have great faith in the grape, so it is enough in good hands. Romania has a way to go, but when watching all the exciting things happening in Hungary, Croatia and Greece to name a few there absolutely no impossibility that we after each looks wines from here, may be people`s favorites at the Vinmonopolet. Back in 2008 I tried to get Greek Gaia to Norway, the importer I worked for was skeptical customers was skeptical too. But some years later tried another importer, the market was clearly, and suddenly lot of people know what a assyrtiko or Agiorgitiko is. About five years maybe a producer or two from Romania given the same chance. It is well deserved, and would no longer ignore country. Another thing that struck me was how pleasant people we met here was. And how beautiful it is in Bucharest. Of course, some worn buildings here and there, but beautiful architecture, and much culture. Well worth a long weekend. It is still very cheap too. A current level cab ride to and from restaurants cost rarely exceeds 25 NOK. I stayed at The Grand Boutique Hotel, one of the most charming hotels I've ever stayed at. largest suite here cost 900, - per night

MYLONAS WINERY, ATTIKI - April 28th, 2013

MYLONAS WINERY, ATTIKI - April 28th, 2013 posted on 08/05/2013 I love Savatiano (Greek white grape variety) and I also love those who love Savatiano. The historical grape variety from Attica has the ability