One of the biggest problems facing producers of

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Erik Reynolds
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1 36 MAY 2010

2 vintagereport:brunello2004/05 BRUNELLO: 2005 NOW, 2004 LATER Thetail-endofthevintagewasawashout,leadingsometowriteitoff. YetmanysmallerestateshavemadeimpressiveBrunellosin2005,says KerinO Keefe perfectaswewaittoopenthemagnificentriserva04s photograph:duttoncolin/sime-4cornersimages.map:maxineheath One of the biggest problems facing producers of the recently released Brunello 2005s is that the vintage is sandwiched between the superb Brunello 2004s and the already much-hyped 2006s, scheduled for release next year. While 2004 is a classic vintage, thanks to perfect climatic conditions that yielded structured, harmonious wines with serious cellaring potential, 2005 was an unstable year in most of Montalcino s growing zone, with a cool summer that culminated in heavy rains at harvest time. Let s say that 2005 will not make Montalcino history, succinctly states Andrea Costanti of the Conti Costanti estate. There are, however, some surprisingly good Brunellos from the vintage, and those estates mostly small that were able to pick entirely before torrential rains arrived, like Costanti, made some of the best 2005s. Many of the larger houses, on the other hand, were not able to finish harvesting before the rain, so had a mixed quality crop. The 2005 vintage underlines the need for official subzones in Montalcino. While many Brunellos hailing from estates just north and south of the town are delicate, with earthy, floral aromas, Brunellos from Castelnuovo dell Abate in the southeast have bigger structures (though grape selection was still crucial). The higher areas of Sant Angelo in Colle in the far south also yielded some very good wines, such as Il Poggione s. We were lucky because, until the rains came, we had cool but dry weather, and after the rains strong breezes dried the grapes, says managing director and winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci. Approachableelegance While even the best 2005s lack the power, poise and ageing potential of the 2004s, they are far better than the angular, weedy 2002s and the cooked, unbalanced 2003s. They can best be compared to 1998: an initially undervalued vintage that beat all expectations as it developed. Many 05s are very enjoyable now, Above:amixedvintagesuchas2005undelinestheneed forofficialsubzonesinbrunello(highlightedhereinred) boasting hallmark Sangiovese aromas of earth, violet and a hint of leather, with bright cherry and mineral flavours, and will make fine drinking over the next few years while the 04s mature in the cellar. I m very confident the 2005s will sell well, says David Berry Green, who has been living in Piedmont for the past year to scout out top artisanal estates for London DECANTER.COM 37

The best of Brunello 2005 acidityandfirmtannins.2012 2020. 29(2004);WSo Ilmarroneto,madonnadellegrazie HHHHH(18.5pts/20) Floral,leatherearthyaromaswith creamywildcherryandtrufflepalate.

3 The best of Brunello 2005 acidityandfirmtannins (2004);WSo Ilmarroneto,madonnadellegrazie HHHHH(18.5pts/20) Floral,leatherearthyaromaswith creamywildcherryandtrufflepalate. Extremeelegance (2004);prV Ciaccipiccolominid AragonaHHHH(17.5) Subtlefloralnose.Veryfreshandbright, withbrooding,darkfruitflavours. now (2004)gns Above:AndreaCostantiofContiCostanti wasoneoftheluckyones,pickingbefore torrentialrainhittheregionin2005 merchant Berry Bros & Rudd. They are very elegant Brunellos with lovely mineral notes, almost Burgundy-like, and are in tune with our customers palates. US importer Neil Empson, an Italian wine specialist, agrees. The 05s are showing extremely well and I m surprised by their level of finesse. Empson notes that in 2009, US sales, mostly at the restaurant level, were slow for all highend Italian and French wines because of the economic downturn but we re finally seeing signs of recovery. Both Empson and Berry Green report little if any fallout from the 2008 Brunello blending scandal. Our customers seem unfazed by the scandal, says Berry Green. Brunello is a key part of our Italian portfolio, and despite the weak pound and increased duty, our Italian wine sales have grown 26% in the year to date. Brunellogate doesn t seem to have influenced US consumers either. If anything, the little customer feedback we ve had on the Brunello blending issues shows that consumers actually feel reassured, because it seems that the Italian system of checks and controls works, says Empson. Brunello 2005s were released alongside the much-anticipated Brunello riserva 2004s, which have matched high expectations and are cellar-worthy investments. Journalists at the Benvenuto Brunello press tasting in February noted a refreshing trend towards a more characteristic Brunello style, with a reduction in the number of inky-black wines for both vintages. That said, an over-enthusiastic use of new wood, while not at the levels of previous years, still dumbs down far too many Brunellos. LepotazzineHHHHH(18.5) Gorgeousnoseofleather,earthand underbrush.ripecherryflavoursand greatdepthforthevintage.lovely. Now ;p&S,ten,Unc FuligniHHHH(18) Lovelyfloralnose,vibrantandracy,backed upwithsucculentfruit.veryelegant,firm tannins.now ;L&S IlpoggioneHHHH(18) Succulentberryandvibrantmineral. Structuredanddelicious (2004);L&W,maj,WDi LisiniHHHH(18) Earthy,withsurprisinglyripefruit flavours.nicemineralityandspice (inbond);BBr mastrojannihhhh(18) Lovelyearthyfloralnosewithahintof leatherandeucalyptus.deliciousripefruit andspice.now (2003);L&W FrancoBiondiSantiHHHH(17.5) Lovelynoseofstrawberryandspicewith hintsofearth,allofwhichcarryoverto thepalate.vibrant,freshandelegant. Bracingtannins.Goodlength ;pyo giannibrunellihhhh(17.5) Richaromasofberry,leatherandspice. Hintoftalcumpowder.Brightwithfresh ContiCostantiHHHH(17.5) Gorgeousnoselayeredwithspiceand berry.veryelegantwithbrightfruit flavours.now ;DBy,Imb,rsv, SeL,V&C,WBr poderesalicutti,piaggionehhhh(17.5) Burgundy-likearomasofstrawberryand mineral.layeredpalatewithberryand mineralflavours.arrivingintheukin June ;han LagerlaHHHH(17) Ripeberryaromascarryoverontothe palate.richfruit,verygoodstructurefor thevintage.showsitscastelnuovodell Abatestructureandnorthernaromas. Now (2004);mig SilvioNardi,manachiara HHHH(17) Nosestillclosed,butthere srich berry-cherryflavours,withspicyand mineralnotes.big,firmtannins ;C&C UccellieraHHHH(17) Big,ripewithsweettannins.Veryearthy andfunkywithhintofsweetoak.good structureforthevintage.now (2004);Cdn,pLg BelpoggioHHHH(16.5) Earthynoseofincense,creamyfruitand bracingtannins.stillabitshy (2004);SmF CasisanoColombaioHHHH(16.5) Veryprettynose,withripeberryandfresh acidity.nicelengthandveryfriendly. Now (2004);Ave IlColleHHHH(16.5) Highlyperfumed;earthynotes,leather, 38 MAY 2010

DECANTER.COM 39 DECANTER.COM 39 vintagereport:brunello2004/05 berryandmineral.hintofanimal.richfruit forthevintage.now 2015. 29.99;Win padellettihhhh(16.5) Intensebouquetofrose,violetandiris.

32;J&B BarbiHHH(16) Lovelymintandvioletaromas.Ripefruit flavoursandahintofliquorice.well balancedandapproachable.now 2015. 29.

99;har,ELL marchesatodeglialeramicihhh(16) GreatSangiovesenose ripeberryand spicewithahintofmineral.now 2015. 19.50;WCL tenimentiangelinihhh(16) Veryprettyfloralnose.

4 DECANTER.COM 39 DECANTER.COM 39 vintagereport:brunello2004/05 berryandmineral.hintofanimal.richfruit forthevintage.now ;Win padellettihhhh(16.5) Intensebouquetofrose,violetandiris. Earthycherryandcinnamonflavours. Delicious.Now ;Bng pertimalihhhh(16.5) Lovelynoseofripeberry,earthand leather.crushedcherryflavourswith liquoricenote.long,linearandfocused ;J&B BarbiHHH(16) Lovelymintandvioletaromas.Ripefruit flavoursandahintofliquorice.well balancedandapproachable.now (2003);SLp,WDi DonatellaCinelliColombiniHHH(16) Bigandroundwithripeplum,spiceand vanillaflavours.well-integratedoak. Now ;har,ELL marchesatodeglialeramicihhh(16) GreatSangiovesenose ripeberryand spicewithahintofmineral.now ;WCL tenimentiangelinihhh(16) Veryprettyfloralnose.Roundfruit flavourswithbrightacidity.now (2004);hBa,SeL othertop2005snotavailableintheuk: IlparadisodimanfrediHHHH(17.5) LegodeHHHH(17.5) CampogiovanniHHHH(16.5) CanalicchiodiSopraHHHH(16.5) LambardiHHHH(16.5) LaFugaHHHH(16.5) AbbadiaArdengaHHH(16) SassodiSoleHHH(15) Best Brunello riserva 2004 FrancoBiondiSantiHHHHH(20) Breathtaking,reminiscentofthemajestic 1975riserva.Intense,earthyaromaswith hintofirisandleather.mouthwatering cherrywitheleganttannins.impeccably balanced,mesmerizingdepth ;pyo poggiodisottohhhhh(19) Bigandearthywithleatherandspice aromas.concentrated,ripecherry-berry flavourswithliquoriceandmineralnotes. Veryfocused.Greatlength (ib);Dec Cold orcia,poggioalvento2001 HHHHH(18.5) Powerandgracefromthisjust-released Above:Biondi-Santi s 04riservascoresa perfect20/20,doingjusticetothepicture postcardvineyardsaroundmontalcino(top) photographs:bonappetit/alamy;cephaspicturelibrary

vintagereport:brunello2004/05 riserva.concentratedblackcherry,with leatherandliquorice.fabulousdepthand length.2015 2025. 75(1999);Evy,Lui, SpD,Wmb FuligniHHHHH(18.

5) Beautifulnoseofleather,earthandspice. Complexwithfantasticripeblackcherry, mineralandspiceflavours.greatdepth andfantasticlength.2015 2025. 65(ib);BBr,rae pertimalihhhhh(18.

5 vintagereport:brunello2004/05 riserva.concentratedblackcherry,with leatherandliquorice.fabulousdepthand length (1999);Evy,Lui, SpD,Wmb FuligniHHHHH(18.5) Stillclosedonthenosewithwhiffsof violetandearth.lushraspberryandplum flavours,chock-fullofspice.youngand aggressive,butwillbeabeauty ;L&S Lisini,UgolaiaHHHHH(18.5) Beautifulnoseofleather,earthandspice. Complexwithfantasticripeblackcherry, mineralandspiceflavours.greatdepth andfantasticlength (ib);BBr,rae pertimalihhhhh(18.5) Gorgeousnose,lovelyripecherry-berry flavourswithspice.greatbalanceand structure.hallmarkbrunello ;J&B Sesti,phenomenaHHHHH(18.5) Gorgeousnoseofearth,plum,black cherryandleather.beautifulsweetand suppletannins;greatbalance.fantastic depthandlength ;gdh ContiCostantiHHHH(18) Stillclosednose,withconcentratedberry andspiceflavoursplusahintofwellintegratedoak.greatdepth,fantastic length ;DBy,Imb,rsv, SeL,V&C,WBr BarbiHHHH(17) GreatSangiovesecharacter.Bigripe fruitandspicewithliquoriceclose.well balanced,goodlength (2003);F&r,SLp Ilpoggione,Vignapaganelli HHHH(17) Veryforwardwithdeliciousblackcherry andliquoricenotes.roundwithgood depth.abitshortonverve ;AgW,F&r LaFioritaHHHH(17) Lovelynose,greatblackcherryandplum fruitwithloadsofspice.wellbalanced withfreshacidityandbigripetannins ;Wtd padellettihhhh(16.5) Greatnoseofripeblackcherryand leather.roundberryflavourswithleather andtruffle.veryfreshacidityandfirm tannins ;Bng tenimentiangelini,vignaspuntali HHHH(16.5) Succulentberry,balsamicandmineral, butstillonitsoaknow (2003);Ess,hBa,tWL CastelgiocondoHHHH(16) Floral,berrynoseofblackcherryand minerals.moredeliciousthancomplex.a refreshingreturntomoretypicalbrunello character.now ;haL Aboveandleft:neithertheBrunellogate blendingscandalof2008norlastyear s economiccrisishavedeterredconsumers intheukorus,withsalesstillstrong Banfi,poggioAll orohhh(15) Nosehasahintofmineralandcrushed cherry,butoverwhelmingnewoakmasks Sangiovesearomasandflavours.Warm palate,verystructured.now ;Bib othertop2004riservasnotavailable intheuk: giannibrunellihhhhh(18.5) Ciaccipiccolominid Aragona,Vignadi pianrossoriservasantacaterinad oro HHHHH(18.5) IlparadisodimanfrediHHHHH(18.5) LegodeHHHHH(18.5) poderesalicuttihhhhh(18.5) AbbadiaArdengaHHHH(18) CanalicchiodiSopraHHHH(18) CapannaHHHH(18) D ForfulldetailsofUKstockists,seep101 Kerin O Keefe is a freelance wine writer and author based in Italy. Her forthcoming book on Brunello will be published by the University of California Press. photographs:michaelbelardo/alamy;christinewebb/alamy 40 MAY 2010

Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello di Montalcino Appellation: BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG in Montalcino 1975,1989,1998,2000 Soil Type: Medium textured, calcareous-clayey (lower Exposure: South-East/West-East/East-West/North- South