BASQUE IN GLORY. gourmet traveller. Photography by Carl Pendle FOOD & TRAVEL 87

Transcription

1 58

2 OLD WINE IN NEW BOTTLES: FRANK GEHRY S CUTTING EDGE CITY OF WINE AT THE MARQUES DE RISCAL BODEGA IN QUIET ELCIEGO gourmet traveller BASQUE IN GLORY In the highlands of northern Spain, the tiny province of Rioja is transforming its safe, predictable wines into something much more exciting. Kate Ennis visits the bodegas and restaurants to find out how the wine and cuisine are evolving to meet changing tastes without abandoning tradition Photography by Carl Pendle 87

3 gourmet traveller RIGHT: SANTIAGO CALATRAVA S ICONIC DESIGN FOR THE BODEGAS YSIOS WHERE JUST ONE WINE, A RESERVA, IS PRODUCED In the packed narrow interior of Bar Soriano, the far end of the bar is furiously steaming as garlicky oil is generously poured over the latest batch of mushrooms placed on the grill. Briskly flipped and browned, three mushrooms are deftly skewered together with a cocktail stick and speared into a chunk of white bread to catch the oil that oozes out. Each champi as this tapa is known is then quickly slid along the bar on small plates to be distributed to eager customers along with small shots of cerveza. If the men behind the bar look well practised at this ritual, it s because they ve only served this one dish here for 34 years. There s plenty of competition from numerous tapas bars that line the lively Calle Laurel in La Rioja s capital town of Logroño, yet Soriano is the busiest by far evident in the number of used napkins customarily discarded on its floor. Once Soriano had found its winning formula, it stuck to it with unfailing dedication. The same thing could once be said of this region s wines 30 years ago, when Soriano was still just a fledgling business. Rioja built up a wide and loyal following by producing formulaic blends from regional grapes that all had the requisite soft fruit and sweet vanilla character from ageing in American oak. The taste of classic Rioja went hand in hand with the image of Spain s rural rusticity, but now this notion of one-dimensional wines and fusty, cobwebbed cellars is quickly gathering dust. Rapid progress across all Spanish wineries in terms of improved technology and techniques has raised quality levels dramatically over the past decade. The classic style is still made for traditionalists, but some winemakers are also creating a modern style to appeal to new drinkers brought up on concentrated, fruit-forward New World wines. By using only native Tempranillo grapes, single varietals give that fruitdriven flavour with more concentration and alcohol, aged in French rather than American oak to give more subtle and complex wood character instead of the overpowering vanilla and coconut. Single estate wines from old vines and higher altitude vineyards are also producing quality like never before. Today, Rioja defies definition. Forward thinking yet still respectful of tradition, fiercely regional yet international, the stark contrasts seem to strike at every turn; yet everything still seems to work together, which is what makes the region so dynamic. The buzz of excitement is particularly palpable now the trend for wine tourism is growing and leading people to a discovery of the region s other assets. There is no Napa-style winery-hopping between brief unguided tastings here, though; Riojans want to encourage a more considered, in-depth sampling of wine culture, so bodegas offer accommodation, restaurants, cultural events and tours to tempt travellers and give an insight into a fundamental aspect of the Spanish way of life. Rioja s culinary scene, influenced by Spain s most respected chefs, certainly deserves to be discovered. As a bastion for traditional regional 70

4 HEN AND EGGS FROM BECKLANDS FARM, MICHEL ROUX, MILLSTONE CHEESE AT The taste of classic Rioja went hand in hand with the image of Spain s rural rusticity, but now this notion of one-dimensional wines and fusty, cobwebbed cellars is quickly gathering dust

5 gourmet traveller TRAVEL INFORMATION La Rioja has long been the secret of smart Basque urbanites seeking a gastronomic weekend break and increasing flights to Bilbao have opened up Rioja as an ideal long-weekend destination for global gastronomes GETTING THERE Ryanair ( ; ryanair.com) flies direct from London Stansted and Dublin to Vitoria Gasteiz from 27 return including taxes. EasyJet ( ; easyjet.com) flies direct from London Stansted to Bilbao, return fares from 41. GETTING AROUND All the major car hire companies can be found at Bilbao s airport including Avis (avis.co.uk) and Europcar (europcar.co.uk). RESOURCES Rutadelvinoderiojaalavesa.com is a guide to touring the wineries in the Basque region of Alava. LaRioja.com is the official tourism site of La Rioja province and has itineraries, an online events diary and a guide to the sights of the region. Laguardia Tourist Office, Palacio Samaniego, Plaza de San Juan ( ; laguardia-alava.com) is in the centre of Laguardia, with helpful literature and maps. cooking using local ingredients, but also experimenting with cuttingedge cuisine, La Rioja has long been the secret of smart Basque urbanites seeking a gastronomic weekend break and increasing flights to Bilbao have opened up Rioja as an ideal long-weekend destination for global gastronomes. From Bilbao, an hour s drive south brings you to Haro in the north-west of the region. La Rioja is Spain s smallest province, yet the wine of the same name is made in a narrow area that hugs the River Ebro, extending 120 kilometres across the north of the region from Haro towards provincial capital Logroño and further east to the plains beyond. Bound by the rugged Cantabrian mountains to the north and the Sierra de la Demanda to the south, Atlantic, continental and Mediterranean climates influence this valley, creating ideal grape-growing conditions. Unique microclimates each produce wines with their own characteristics: Rioja Alta, in the highlands of La Rioja and largely south of the Ebro, revered for its fine blends; the cooler Rioja Alavesa in the Basque region north of the river, known for its fruity young Tempranillos, and Rioja Baja, the biggest, hottest and lowest altitude area, with robust and peppery Garnacha wines in the plains east of Logroño. A good place for a base is in or around Haro, Laguardia or Logroño, giving easy access to the attractions of Alta and Alavesa. The new Museum of Wine Culture ( ; dinastiavivanco.com) in the shadow of Briones, an old and picturesque hilltop town, is the world s largest resource dedicated to the culture of winemaking. It s the brainchild of the Vivanco family, owner of Riojan winemaking company Dinastía Vivanco, which spent half a century amassing a collection of art and artefacts to show how wine has been celebrated around the world throughout history. We particularly enjoyed the video from inside a fermentation tank, and the interactive aroma pods designed to test your senses. The E6 entry price includes one wine tasting sample. The place appears as popular with locals as visitors; in the café area a crowd had gathered around a table where, in a timeless scene of village life, old men were playing a heated card game. We enjoyed a good lunch in the stylish restaurant, looking out on vineyards while sampling innovative seasonal dishes by head chef Maribel Frades. Maribel trained at El Bulli, and it seems most ambitious Spanish chefs have undergone apprenticeships there with Ferran Adrià, or at Juan-Mari Arzak s venerated eaterie in San Sebastián. But 45 minutes 72 66

6 travel strap WHILE THE RIOJA REGION FORGES INTO THE FUTURE, TRADITIONAL SIGHTS AND CUSTOMS STILL THRIVE; BELOW: BODEGAS YSIOS WITH THE CANTABRIAN MOUNTAINS BEHIND The cooler Basque region north of the river is known for its fruity young Tempranillos, while Rioja Baja, the biggest, hottest and lowest altitude area, has robust and peppery Garnacha wines 73

7 travel strap WHERE TO STAY FAR RIGHT: VICTORINO EGUREN UGARTE OF BODEGAS HEREDAD UGARTE, LOOKING TO THE FUTURE BUT RESPECTING THE PAST Hotel AC Logroño, C/Madre de Dios 21, Logroño ( ; ac.hotelsearch.com). Rooms in this 5-star hotel are a sleek and contemporary mix of wood and white. Doubles from 54 per night. Castillo El Collado, Paseo El Collado 1, Laguardia ( ; hotelcollado.com). On the walls of Laguardia town, this castle has been restored in a rustic style. Each room is unique and the suite at the top, Amor y Locura (love and madness), has its bath by windows that look out towards the Cantabrian mountains. Doubles from 74 per night. Hospedería Señorío de Casalarreina, Plaza Santo Domingo de Guzmán 6, Casalarreina ( ; hotelesconencanto.org). Located next to a Dominican monastery, whose beautiful façade can be seen from many of the hotel s windows. Its 15 rooms, each with giant whirlpool baths, are full of character with beamed ceilings and big stone walls. Doubles from 90 per night. Hotel Los Agustinos, San Agustín 2, Haro ( ; hotellosagustinos.com). This 4-star hotel was formerly a 14th-century convent, and has a fantastic courtyard and cloisters. Doubles from 90 per night. Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Calle Torrea 1, Elciego, Rioja Alavesa ( ; starwood.com). The much anticipated Starwood hotel that forms part of Gehry s City of Wine has now officially opened its doors, so guests can try out amenities including the Cauderlie wine spa. Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Plaza Fermin Gurzindo 2, Ábalos, Rioja Alta ( ; hotelvilladeabalos.com). Located in the tiny village of Ábalos, this family-run villa also organises tasting courses, winery visits and vineyard tours on bikes. Doubles from 53 per night. Antigua Bodega Don Cosme Palacio, Ctra Elciego s/n, Laguardia, 01300, Rioja Alavesa ( ; habarcelo.es). An old winery converted into guest accommodation with 12 rooms, a good restaurant, and wine courses one weekend a month. Doubles from 49 per night. south from Haro you can sample the talents of a Riojan chef who trained with both these culinary heavyweights. Francis Paniego is blazing a trail for a new generation of Spanish cuisine at Echaurren, the restaurant where he was awarded the region s first Michelin star. Echaurren, located in Rioja s ski resort of Ezcaray, is actually two contrasting restaurants under one roof. To the right, Paniego s mother Marisa Sanchez runs the classic Echaurren restaurant serving traditional Riojan dishes like such as patitas de cordero (lamb s feet in a tomato sauce), piquillo peppers and croquetas. On the other side of their shared kitchen is El Portal, where Francis transforms local ingredients and dishes into inventive, modern cuisine. His helado de jamón ibérico, Iberian ham ice-cream, draws Heston Blumenthal comparisons. Francis has a laboratory where he experiments and he s fond of gadgets too, like his laser thermometer, key to his signature dish of merluza confitada hake cooked in smoking oil at an optimum temperature of 45ºC to get a wonderful texture and flavour. Eating here sums up what food in Rioja is about the best quality local ingredients and loyalty to regional traditions. Perhaps the most classic, and simple, dish you ll come across throughout the region is patatas a la Riojana local morcilla or chorizo sautéed in olive oil with onion and garlic before potatoes and water are added and simmered to a stew-like consistency. Delicious vegetables grown in the southern Rioja Baja green beans, asparagus, artichokes and thick stalks of white asparagus are ubiquitous, but meat is the big deal here and no part goes to waste. Pig meat, in particular, is used with great inventiveness, including snout, ears and trotter. Other local staples include chuletas de cerdero (lamb cutlets grilled over smouldering vine roots), a perfect match for a glass of Rioja. Back north and east over the Ebro, the region of Rioja Alavesa is the home of some of the most cutting-edge winery designs, and the boldest to date has just opened in the quiet town of Elciego. The longanticipated City of Wine at the Marques de Riscal bodega is a $77 million project designed by Frank Gehry that includes a luxury hotel, wine spa, visitor centre and second Francis Paniego restaurant. Gehry was persuaded to do the build when the winery gave him a bottle from 1926, his birth year. His design, using his distinctive calling card of billowing titanium sheets in silver, gold and pink, is symbolic of the region s soaring confidence. It is not the first iconic winery design for Rioja, however. Nearby is Bodegas Ysios, an undulating winery instantly recognisable as the work of Santiago Calatrava, which produces just one wine, a silky rich Reserva. You get the best view of Ysios from Rioja Alavesa s regional capital Laguardia, a very walkable medieval walled town. Children run around while grandparents sit and watch the world go by. One lively group of nonagenarians sitting on a bench with their walking sticks, flexed their (non-existent) muscles at us, saying that a lifetime of drinking Rioja has kept them looking young. There are many wineries between here and San Vicente de la Sonsierra, along the road that shadows the 92

8 LEFT, LESLIE WATERS. AWARD WINNING HONEY AT SHERBOURN FARMERS MARKET. DORSET DOWN MUSHROOMS. ONE OF DENHAYS MANY ROSETTES. RIGHT SHERBOURNE CATHEDRAL. FRA RIGHT VIEW OVER GOLDEN CAP. BLACKBOARD AT WASHINGPOOL FARM SHOP, APPLES FROM 75

9 gourmet traveller Cantabrian mountains. Be sure to fit in an almuerzo at one of them. Not content with long lunches and digestion-defying dinners, Riojans also set aside time for food mid-morning, fortifying themselves with Idiazabel cheese, chorizo and, of course, a glass of Rioja. Ending the day near Sonsierra, we ate at Casa Toni another family-run affair offering modern and traditional cuisine. Like many top restaurants, the only thing lacking is the décor we eat staring at a hideous mural, listening to muzak. Logroño, with its minimalist 5-star hotel, is a good urban base from which to explore the area to the south. The Juan Alcorta winery nearby is all sleek lines and sliding doors. This is one of the world s biggest wineries, with tanks and barrels stretching as far as the eye can see. Yet wine and architecture aside, the best reason for visiting Rioja s bodegas is the overwhelming hospitality you receive, which was particularly evident at our final stop, Bodegas Corral in Navarette, ten kilometres from Logroño. Owner Javier Martinez Blanco greeted us like an old friend and we went for a last Riojan lunch at the wonderful Venta de Moncavillo restaurant to try his excellent new single estate wine made from just ten hectares of aged vines. Post lunch, we take a walk along the path cutting through Corral s vineyards, which is part of the Pilgrim Route that leads to Santiago. It brings it home that vineyards like these were here when the first pilgrims made their journeys of faith through the region. Rioja may be moving excitedly forward into the future, but you also feel the ancient, timeless legacy of winemaking wherever you go. In Rioja, you have the best of both worlds. WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Echaurren Hotel and Restaurant, C/ Héroes del Alcázar 2, Ezcaray ( ; echaurren.com). Two excellent restaurants under one roof run by mother and son team Marisa Sanchez and Francis Paniego. The tasting menu costs 47 per person. La Venta de Moncalvillo, Medrano 6, Daroca de Rioja ( ; ventamoncalvillo.com). Family-run affair well off the beaten track, but worth seeking out for dishes cooked with the finest local ingredients. Bar Soriano, Travesía del Laurel 2, Logroño ( ). The best bar on Logroño s tapas street, which has served just one dish for 34 years a stack of mushrooms sautéed in a garlicky oil. Around 80 pence for a champi. Casa Toni, Zumalacárregui 27, San Vicente de la Sonsierra ( ). A family business for 40 years, this is run by three brothers and a sister. Head chef Jesús Sáez favours both the traditional and avant-garde. Try the red wine icecream. Around 37 per person for four-course meal with wine. Dinastía Vivanco Restaurant, Carretera Nacional 232, Briones ( ; dinastiavivanco.com). Contemporary cuisine in the restaurant of the wine museum. Dine with a view of the vineyards and Briones beyond. It offers four tasting menus ranging from 16 to 39 per person. WHERE TO SAMPLE THE WINES Bodegas Bilbaínas, Estación, Haro, Rioja Alta ( ; bodegasbilbainas.com). Visits by appointment. Bodegas Corral, Carretera de Logrofio KM10, Navarette ( ; donjacobo.es). Bodegas Luis Cañas, Ctra Samaniego No 10, Villabuena, Rioja Alava ( ; luiscanas.com). Bodegas Heredad Ugarte, Ctra A-24, Paganas Laguardia, Rioja Alava ( ;heredadugarte.com). Bodegas Ysios, Camino de La Hoya, Laguardia, Rioja Alava ( ; bodegasysios.com). 94