Your Completely Independent Guide to Fine Wines. Wine Rating System

Transcription

1 Your Completely Independent Guide to Fine Wines Wine Rating System As good as It gets. These wines reach the peak of my personal scale of quality Outstanding. These wines are outstanding for their type and are worth the extra effort to seek out Very Good to Good. These offer real character and can be age worthy. The majority of my cellar and what I drink on a daily basis falls into this category. Good to Decent. While still good, these wines lack character or fail to show a significant number of positive traits. Quaffable to Undrinkable. Wines rated less than 80 points are not recommended. They will range from passable to flawed and undrinkable. I score wines on the above scale, and the bottle price, winery/wine reputation, and vintage have no bearing on the score. While a well-written note should not need a score, its inclusion allows a clear, easy to understand delineation of preferences. This allows a more concise note that can focus on the positive aspects of each wine as opposed to always having to explain why a wine rated 88 points isn't as good as one rated outstanding with 95 points. A precise score also forces the reviewer to make a hard decision and I will agonize over small differences in score. Having said that, and while I believe a reviewer should be as precise as possible (i.e. the old saying "aim small, miss small"), readers should interpret broadly and take any rating system with a grain of salt. The only difference between a wine I rate 89 points and one I rate 90 points (or one rated 100 points and one rated 97 points for that matter) is that I liked one a little more than the other. That's all a score tells you and a score represents the reviewer's opinion. While I use score ranges in the case of barrel samples, I will also use a range if I am unsure of a wine or if the tasting conditions do not allow enough time or focus on the wine. Wines are scored on their overall quality. The note should indicate my best guess at when the wine will be at maturity; however, drinking young, structured wines can provide just as much pleasure as drinking fully mature, completely integrated bottles. If you prefer the latter and don't like young, tannic wines or wines with primary fruit, don't open a newly released Châteauneuf-du-Pape and expect the same level of enjoyment that I get from it. While scores give you a clear idea of what I think of the wine, please realize that there are times when a less complex, easier drinking wine is actually the best wine for a given situation. I cringe every time I hear someone state that their cellar consists of only 90+ point wines (I'll ignore the source of the point rating) because I truly believe that person is missing out on a huge swath of interesting wines that deliver immense pleasure. Soft and easy are not always bad things and there are times when it doesn't get better than taking big gulps of a fresh, newly released Côtes-du-Rhône with a roast chicken or quaffing a delicious Rosé after work or with dinner. The style of the wine (described by the note) is every bit as important as the score. To me, any wine rated 85 points or higher is a wine I like, believe can be enjoyed, and has noteworthy qualities. In the case of barrel tastings, I use a range for the score. While I think it is possible to evaluate barrel samples (especially final blends), these notes should always be taken with a grain of salt. Scoring is a subjective portion of wine evaluation and as such, is simply my personal preference for a wine at a given point in time. Nothing more, nothing less. Any score or note in isolation is close to worthless and it is only after reading multiple notes and tasting multiple bottles that a reader can start to understand where the note taker is coming from. At the end of the day, the only opinion that matters is yours and my goal is to help you find a wine, either via a note or score (or both), that you will enjoy. JebDunnuck.com Napa Valley s Exuberant, Powerful 2015s Page 1

2 France, Northern Rhône: The Blockbuster 2015s and Elegant 2016s This report looks at the newly released 2015s that are just now hitting the market, as well as the 2016s, most of which were tasted as barrel samples. The Blockbuster 2015s As I wrote last year, 2015 is a truly sensational vintage that should not be missed by any Rhône lover out there. This vintage certainly rivals what was achieved in 2009 and 2010, yet with slightly more consistency, as well as a style all its own. From a weather standpoint, the vintage is easy to understand, and more than one vigneron threw around adjectives such as perfect. Starting with a rain-soaked winter and early spring, the year quickly turned hot and dry. The early season rains which had saturated the water table allowed the vines to weather the summer heat beautifully, and small rains in July and August also helped to revive the wines and keep the ripening processing moving forward. In addition, while a hot year, it was far from vintages such as 2003 and cooler nighttime temperatures helped the grapes retain a sense of freshness and purity. Regarding the style of the wines, I compared these to a hypothetical mix of 2009 and 2010 last year, and this comparison holds true today. The wines show the sexy exuberance of the 2009s with just a touch of the slightly fresher, pure style of the 2010s. While numerous vignerons compare the vintage to 1990, I find the tannins in the 2015s to be more sweet and polished. This is undoubtedly due to improved winemaking as well as vineyard management. Across the board, the wines possess deep, saturated purple colors, rich, unctuous textures, sweet tannins, and incredible charm. As to the appellations, the unquestionable stars of the vintage are Côte Rôtie and Hermitage, both regions producing a bevy of magical, legendary wines. The top Côte Rôties are massive, super-intense wines that have an incredible depth of fruit as well as sweet tannin, making them already impossible to resist. Hermitage is just as impressive, with majestic, concentrated wines, yet these are much more tannic and backward compared to Côte Rôtie. The top wines need bottle age. Cornas also excelled and produced massive, rich, opulent wines. Many producers made their best wines ever, and quality is incredibly high and consisten throughout this appellation. If there s an appellation that dramatically exceeded what s been accomplished in the past, it s Crozes-Hermitage. After a wet, difficult 2014, the hot, dry growing season with refreshing summer rains of 2015 allowed this region to deliver what it does best: ripe, sexy, opulent Syrah fruit! There s a touch of Californian flair to these wines and the depth of fruit and richness available from this appellation, at more than reasonable prices, is incredible. New World wine lovers wanting to experiment with northern Rhône Syrah should grab a mixed case (or two) of these wines. As always, Saint Joseph is the most variable. While there are some undeniable superstars, too many wines lack balance, and growers just didn t know how to handle the incredible ripeness they were handed in the vintage. I keep thinking Saint Joseph will be the next big thing, yet I always seem to have to preface that with next year. Nevertheless, with the warming climate, this appellation certainly stands to gain the most. There are hundreds of Saint Josephs in this report well worth your time and money. And certainly, some of the greatest values come from this region. Looking at the whites in 2015, this is a more variable, yet certainly rewarding year. Condrieu produced monumental wines (some of the most majestic, opulent wines ever) as well as too many overripe, heavy efforts that will need to be consumed early in their life. Nevertheless, I still believe Condrieus are best enjoyed on release (or starting 6-12 months after release) and over the following 3-4 years. Some top efforts can certainly last for a decade, yet they don t improve, and I fail to see the point. The Marsanne and Roussanne dominated cuvées from Saint Joseph, Hermitage, and Crozes- Hermitage also show the richer, riper style of the vintage, ranging from massive, age-worthy efforts to charming, fruit forward wines best drunk in their youth. The tiny appellation of Saint-Péray has made incredible strides over the past decade and now produces some of the top whites of the Northern Rhône. The Elegant 2016s The Northern Rhône has another terrific vintage in the pipeline with the 2016s, although in a very different style than the 2015s. Where the 2015s are deep, rich, and powerful, the 2016s shine for their purity, elegance, and balance, while still showing good depth of fruit, awesome purity, and sweet tannin. The vintage is similar to a richer, slightly more concentrated 2014, with many vignerons comparing it to The charming, rounded style is also reminiscent of The 2016 vintage got off to a slow start, with flowering a full two to three weeks behind normal, and the cool weather persisted through the first part of July. This cool, rainy weather was a boon for weeds, as well as mildew. A freak hailstorm in April also pummeled Hermitage and decimated yields. Luckily, this occurred early enough that it didn t affect the quality of the grapes. Nevertheless, the tiny yields resulted in incredibly concentrated wines from this tiny appellation. Aside from this isolated event, fruit set went off without a hitch and yields are healthy. The weather turned hot and incredibly dry from the end of July to the first part of September. Rains early in September gave the vines a respite but also forced vignerons to wait until the end of September and October to start the harvest. While 2016 doesn t have the power, opulence, or depth of 2015, it offers more classic characters, beautiful balance, and terrific purity of fruit, all of which will be loved by the traditionalists out there. The 2016s will also be more approachable and drinkable at an earlier age. In addition, the quality of the whites is incredibly consistent across all the appellations. With all the hype regarding 2015, 2016 still has loads to offer and is another very strong vintage for the region. While the whites were tasted mostly from bottle, keep in mind that almost all the reds were tasted as barrel samples. The Wines Most of these wines were tasted in September 2017, with numerous follow up tastings at my office in Colorado. DOMAINE ALÉOFANE - NATACHA CHAVE 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE CUVÉE UNIQUE BLANC $30 WHITE 90 DOMAINE ALÉOFANE - NATACHA CHAVE 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE CUVÉE UNIQUE BLANC $30 WHITE 90 DOMAINE ALÉOFANE - NATACHA CHAVE 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE CUVÉE UNIQUE $30 RED DOMAINE ALÉOFANE - NATACHA CHAVE 2016 SAINT JOSEPH CUVÉE UNIQUE $35 RED DOMAINE ALÉOFANE - NATACHA CHAVE 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE CUVÉE UNIQUE $30 RED 92 DOMAINE ALÉOFANE - NATACHA CHAVE 2015 SAINT JOSEPH CUVÉE UNIQUE $35 RED 91 Pulling from five hectares in Crozes-Hermitage (and a small part in Saint Joseph) Natacha Chave continues to make a perfumed, traditional style both red and white. The reds are capable of lasting over a decade. The 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Unique Blanc is based on equal DOMAINE ALéOFANE NATACHA CHAVE parts Marsanne and Roussanne, and was brought up in equal parts new demi-muids and stainless-steel tank. It offers lots of upfront pineapple, toasted bread, spice and flower oil-l ke aromatics, a fleshy, medium-bodied, mouthfilling style, good acidity and building richness. It s a terrific Crozes Page 2

3 white that will shine on the dinner table. Also brought up in equal parts new demi-muids and tank, the rock-solid 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Unique Blanc is 50% each of Marsanne and Roussanne. With an exotic, tropical, melon and papaya scented bouquet, it s medium-bodied, nicely textured, pure and elegant on the palate, with good acidity. It will shine on the dinner table as well and should last for 4-5 years. Moving to the reds, the 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Unique shows the classic crazy bouquet of this estate and is loaded with notions of violets, spring flowers, peach pit and both black and blue fruits. These give way to a ripe, medium-bodied, beautifully textured Syrah that has solid mid-palate density, ripe tannin and good acidity. Coming from a mix of sand and clay soils and raised in 15% new demi-muids, it has outstanding potential. Violets, exotic spices, raspberries and plum notions all emerge from Natacha s 2016 Saint Joseph Cuvée Unique. Si ky and polished on the palate, with fine tannin, it s a terrific looking barrel sample that has plenty of fruit and texture, as well as elegance. This cuvée was raised in a mix of barrels and demi-muids, all of which were used. Always a wild, perfumed wine, the 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Unique doesn t disappoint with its plum, blueberry, minty herbs, and bay leaf-like aromas and flavors. Brought up in 15% new demi-muids, it has mediumbodied richness, beautiful concentration, ripe tannin and outstanding length. It s a terrific wine from this talented winemaker. Spring flowers, mint, thyme and ample green herbs define the 2015 Saint Joseph Cuvée Unique. It s nicely concentrated on the palate, with lots of darker fruits, ripe tannin and a good finish. Natacha pulls all from granite soils around Tournon for this cuvée and it s always raised in 60% used demi-muids and a mix of used barrels. LES ALEXANDRINS 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE BLANC $30 WHITE 93 LES ALEXANDRINS 2015 CORNAS $48 RED 94 LES ALEXANDRINS 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE $80 RED 92 LES ALEXANDRINS 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE $25 RED 93 LES ALEXANDRINS 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE DOMAINE $35 RED 94 LES ALEXANDRINS 2015 SAINT JOSEPH $45 RED 92 Les Alexandrins is now owned by the Perrin Family of Château Beaucastel in the Southern Rhône. The 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (100% Marsanne) is a killer little white that should be snatched up by readers. Buttered orchard fruits, toasted hazelnuts, honeycomb and hints of toast all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, ripe, impressively textured beauty that has real heft and density. Brought up in one-third demi-muids and the rest in tank, drink it over the coming 4-5 years (and I wouldn t be surprised to see it keep longer). As to the reds, the 2015 Cornas sports an inky color and spent 15 months in once and twice used barrels. It offers up tons of red and black fruits, saddle leather, dried flowers and spice aromas and flavors, fullbodied richness, no hard edges and sweet, polished tannin. It s impeccably balanced, has a classic style, and is a smoking good value. It should keep for years. The 2015 Côte Rôtie checks in as a blend of 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier, from multiple lieux-dits, and spent 15 months in once used demi-muids. Clean, classic and downright elegant, it offers terrific notes of black raspberries, spring flowers and hints of cured meats. A quintessential Côte Rôtie, this beauty has no hard edges, integrated acidity These wines are always hard to come by as Allemand refuses visits from critics (at least I ve never had an or call returned). Nevertheless, I purchased these from Le Mangevins (don t miss a chance to eat here!) in Tain l Hermitage and they re brilliant wines. The inky colored 2014 Cornas Chaillot from Allemand offers a gorgeous perfume of black raspberries, olives, spring flowers, pepper and hints of bacon fat. Classic Syrah all the way, with medium to full-bodied richness, Les Alexandrins Thierry Allemand and fine tannin, all of which allow it to drink nicely today, yet age for 15 years or more. The gorgeous 2015 Crozes-Hermitage shows how strong this appellation is in It offers lots of blackberry, tapenade, truffle and peppery aromatics, full-bodied richness and a silky, pure, elegant texture. This inky colored beauty is already drinking beautifully, but will cruise for a decade or more. This cuvée comes from numerous regions in Croze and was brought up in a mix of tronconique tanks and demi-muids. At 25 bucks, it s a steal. Slightly more expensive, but certainly cut from the same cloth, the 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine offers a touch more finesse and elegance, as well as length. Perfumed notes of crème de cassis, peppery herbs, underbrush and smoke all flow to a full-bodied, beautifully balanced, elegant wine that has fine tannin and a layered, seamless style. Drink it anytime over the coming years. From four hectares of granite soils, the 2015 Saint Joseph is fresh and elegant, with a pure, clean, classy style. Blackberries, violets/spring flowers, loads of pepper, and a touch of minerality all emerge from this medium to full-bodied Saint Joseph that can be drunk today or cellared for a decade or more. THIERRY ALLEMAND 2014 CORNAS CHAILLOT NA RED 94 THIERRY ALLEMAND 2014 CORNAS REYNARD NA RED 95 These wines are made via a collaboration between superstar Paris-based chef Yannick Alléno and Michel Chapoutier. A fresh, lively, mineral-laced effort, the 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Guer Van Blanc comes from sandy, granitic soils in the northern part of Crozes and is 100% Marsanne. It gives up lots of buttered citrus, crushed rock and honeysuckle aromas and flavors. Rich, textured, medium-bodied and elegant, drink it over the coming 3-4 years. Coming from a single vineyard in the northern part of Tournon, the 2016 Saint Joseph Blanc La Couronne De Chabot is similarly colored to the Croix de Chabot and is a bigger, richer wine. Caramelized pineapple, brioche, toasted nut and lots of minerality all emerge from this rich, fat, unctuous 2016, Alleno et Chapoutier bright, yet integrated acidity and a great finish, it s already drinking nicely but is going to cruise for a decade or more in the cellar. The 2014 Cornas Reynard is similar to its younger brother, yet offers more richness, depth and minerality. Black raspberries, black cherries, pepper, crushed rocks, tapenade and smoked meat nuances all flow to a concentrated 2014 that shows the more mid-weight, elegant, yet vibrant style of the vintage. It s far from unapproachable now, yet should be at its best from 2020 to ALLENO ET CHAPOUTIER 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE GUER VAN BLANC NA WHITE 91 ALLENO ET CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH BLANC LA COURONNE DE CHABOT NA WHITE 93 ALLENO ET CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH BLANC LA CROIX DE CHABOT NA WHITE 91 ALLENO ET CHAPOUTIER 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE GUER VAN ROUGE NA RED ALLENO ET CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH LA COURONNE DE CHABOT NA RED ALLENO ET CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH LA CROIX DE CHABOT NA RED ALLENO ET CHAPOUTIER 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE GUER VAN NA RED 93 ALLENO ET CHAPOUTIER 2015 SAINT JOSEPH LA COURONNE DE CHABOT NA RED 96 ALLENO ET CHAPOUTIER 2015 SAINT JOSEPH LA CROIX DE CHABOT NA RED 94 which has beautiful acidity and purity. Another wine from the northern part of Tournon and 100% Marsanne, the 2016 Saint Joseph Blanc La Croix De Chabot is v brant and clean, with terrific notes of citrus, pineapple, and brioche. It picks up a touch of minerality with air, is medium-bodied, clean and downright classic in style. Inky purple in color, the 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Guer Van Rouge (100% Syrah) comes from sandy, granite-laced soils in the northern part of the appellation. It has a ripe, intense nose of black fruits, scorched earth and graphite, with lots of minerality, licorice and olive nuances. Rich, concentrated, and silky on the palate, with fine tannin, it s going to need shortterm cellaring. Page 3

4 As with the white, the 2016 Saint Joseph La Couronne De Chabot is a bigger, richer wine than the Croix de Chabot and comes from a late-ripening site that has a pure east exposure. Its inky purple color is followed by a sweet, granite-laced bouquet of violets, bay leaf, wet stone and both cassis and black raspberry fruits. Elegant, polished and silky, it s more tannic than the base cuvée and will benefit from short-term cellaring. Nevertheless, it s fruit forward and already delicious. They first made this cuvée in The 2016 Saint Joseph La Croix De Chabot offers a classic St Joseph minerality as well as notes of violets, bay leaf and black raspberries. Elegant, si ky, and seamless on the palate, with fine, sweet tannin, it s going to drink beautifully right out of the gate. The 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Guer Van is also deeply colored and rich, with a great nose of black raspberries, ground herbs, and peppery spice. Rich, full-bodied, mouthfilling and opulent, with big, chewy tannin, drink it anytime over the coming decade. The 2015 Saint Joseph La Couronne De Chabot offers more precision and purity as well as gorgeous notes of crushed violets, blackberries, blueberries, and pepper. Concentrated, elegant, and seamless, with ultra-fine tannin, this smoking good St Joseph needs to be forgotten for 3-4 years and will keep for another decade. Inky colored, the 2015 Saint Joseph La Croix De Chabot is a fabulous effort that offers tons of granite influenced aromas of black raspberries, cassis, scorched earth and dried flowers. There s even a whiff of fresh ozone (the smell when rain hits hot pavement). Rich, fullbodied, concentrated and opulent, with gorgeous tannin, it s a killer value! DOMAINE BARGE 2016 CONDRIEU LA SOLARIE NA WHITE DOMAINE BARGE 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE CÔTE BLONDE NA RED DOMAINE BARGE 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE CÔTE BRUNE NA RED DOMAINE BARGE 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE CÔTE BLONDE NA RED 94 DOMAINE BARGE 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE CÔTE BRUNE NA RED 92+ This traditionally run, family estate pulls mostly from the Côte Brune side of Côte Rôtie. The wines are made by the young Julien Barge, with assistance from his father, Gilles Barge. These latest wines are the finest I ve tasted from this estate. Not yet bottled, the 2016 Condrieu La Solarie looks to be spectacular and shows how strong this vintage is for Condrieu. Tangerine, apricot, lots of flowers and spice, and hints of minerality all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, balanced, classic effort. As to the reds, the 2016 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde comes from one of the top terroirs in Côte Rôtie and is a blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier that will see months in 600-liter barrels. With notes of raspberries, flowers, violets, and damp earth, it s medium-bodied, elegant, and finesse-driven on the palate. It lacks a touch of mid-palate depth yet is classic, straight, and pure. The 2016 Côte Rôtie Côte Brune looks a touch better, offering more black fruits, cured meats, truffle and spice, as I always love the wines from this tiny estate and they ve made a number of brilliant wines in The 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Les Terres Blanches is smokin good. A blend of 70% Marsanne and the rest Roussanne, aged mostly in barrel, it has terrific notes of caramelized citrus, crushed rock, buttered stone fruits and brioche. More of a mini-hermitage Blanc than a Crozes Blanc, it has terrific depth and fat on the palate, good acidity and a great finish. Coming from the Pont-de-l Isère region of Crozes, the 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Les Pierrelles sports a deep, inky color as well as terrific notes of blackberries, ground herbs, pepper and ample minerality. Medium to fullbodied, with building tannin and notable purity, it s going to drink beautifully for a decade or more. I also loved the 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Louis Belle which saw a traditional vinification followed by 20 months in French oak. Blackberry, currants, blueberries, violets and hints of black pepper give way to a rich, expansive, opulent Syrah that has sweet tannin Domaine Barge Domaine Belle well as the textbook minerality of this terroir. With medium-bodied richness, good concentration and present tannin, it will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age, but has the elegance and purity of the vintage front and center. The 2015 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde is a richer, sexier wine based on 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier. This cuvée is fermented with 100% whole clusters and is aged months in demi-muids. Black raspberries, spice, chocolate and peppered meat notions flow to a rich, textured, beautifully concentrated, voluptuous Côte Rôtie that has present tannin, solid balance and a great finish. It s a beautiful wine that delivers the goods. The 2015 Côte Rôtie Côte Brune is a more backward, structured blend of 98% Syrah and 2% Viognier. It offers a classic Côte Rôtie perfume of black raspberries, olive, crushed flowers and pepper. Medium to full-bodied, elegant and layered on the palate, with firm tannin, give it 2-3 years of bottle age and enjoy over the following years. DOMAINE BELLE 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE LES TERRES BLANCHES NA WHITE 94 DOMAINE BELLE 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE LES PIERRELLES NA RED 92 DOMAINE BELLE 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE CUVÉE LOUIS BELLE NA RED 94 DOMAINE BELLE 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE ROCHE PIERRE NA RED DOMAINE BELLE 2015 HERMITAGE NA RED The 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Crystal Blanc (100% Marsanne) is a touch flat, yet has plenty of browned butter, apple, spice and exotic herb aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, rich and unctuous, it s best drunk over the coming year or so. The 2015 Hermitage Arpege Blanc is honeyed, oxidized, and sweet. and a great finish. Give it a few years of bottle age and enjoy over the following decade or more. Not yet bottled, the 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Roche Pierre is the flagship cuvée from Crozes-Hermitage and will spend a full 26 months in barrel. Cassis, toasty oak, espresso and floral notes all emerge from this beautifully concentrated, yet elegant Crozes that has ripe, present tannin and a great finish. It s more than a little impressive and easily the finest version I ve tried from this estate to date. Belle s inky colored 2015 Hermitage looks to be a stunner. This cuvée comes all from the more sandy, limestone soils of the Les Murets lieu-dit and will see 26 months in barrel. It has a gorgeous bouquet of cassis, Asian spices, vanilla bean and liquid rock. This gives way to a full-bodied, ripe, powerful Hermitage that has terrific purity, an elegant, balanced personality and building, ripe tannin. It needs 3-4 years of cellaring and will drink beautifully for two decades. DOMAINE BETTON CHRISTELLE 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE CRYSTAL BLANC $10 WHITE 85 DOMAINE BETTON CHRISTELLE 2015 HERMITAGE ARPEGE BLANC $30 WHITE 73 DOMAINE BETTON CHRISTELLE 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE CAPRICE $35 RED 89 Located outside of Ampuis, Billon pulls from two sites in the northern part of the Côte Rôtie, the Brocarde and Côte Rozier. These are rich, powerful wines that see plenty of new barrels, yet still hold onto their classic Côte Rôtie characters. The 2016 Côte Rôtie La Brocarde (95% Syrah and 5% Viognier aged in Domaine Betton Christelle Maryline et Christophe Billon This estate makes competent wines, but this is unacceptable. Blueberries, peppery herbs and hints of earth emerge from the 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Caprice. It s medium-bodied, nicely textured and balanced, with good fruit and a clean finish. Drink it over the coming 7-8 years. MARYLINE ET CHRISTOPHE BILLON 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE LA BROCARDE $95 RED MARYLINE ET CHRISTOPHE BILLON 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE LA CÔTE ROZIER $90 RED new barrels) looks to be a sensational Côte Rôtie. Possessing plenty of finesse and elegance as well as notes of cassis, black raspberries, toasty oak, and spice, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, terrific mid-palate concentration, and a great finish. It s going to need time to integrate its oak élevage, but it has gorgeous purity of fruit. Page 4

5 Another modern style effort (although this cuvée only saw 50% new French oak), the 2016 Côte Rôtie La Côte Rozier is more ripe and sexy, with a voluptuous style in its crème de cassis and black raspberry fruit, All three of these Côte Rôties from Bonnefond showed beautifully. While the Côte Rozier and Les Rochains have a touch of obvious oak, they have classic, age-worthy profiles. The most elegant in the lineup, the 2015 Côte Rôtie Colline De Couzou (100% Syrah that was mostly destemmed) offers impressive darker berry fruits, peppery herbs and earthy nuances in a medium to full-bodied, balanced style. It s a classy, undeniably delicious effort to drink over the coming Patrick et Christophe Bonnefond toasted spice, and espresso-l ke aromas and flavors. With full-bodied richness, lots of oak, and plenty of fruit, give bottle 2-3 years of bottle age. It should keep for 15+. PATRICK ET CHRISTOPHE BONNEFOND 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE COLLINE DE COUZOU NA RED 90 PATRICK ET CHRISTOPHE BONNEFOND 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE CÔTE ROZIER NA RED 92 PATRICK ET CHRISTOPHE BONNEFOND 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE LES ROCHAINS NA RED 92 This estate, which is owned by Guigal, favors a similarly long barrel-aging regime. As such, all the reds were tasted out of barrel. Bonserine s classic 2016 Condrieu is well made, with lots of citrus blossom, buttered peach and apricot aromas and flavors, medium to fullbodied richness, and a great finish. Drink it over the coming couple of years. The 2016 Côte Rôtie La Garde is terrific and sports a deep ruby/purple color to go with sensational notes of black raspberries, currants, chocolate, and caramelized meats. Big, rich and opulent on the palate, with sweet tannin, it s a beautiful wine that will keep for two decades. This cuvée is 100% Syrah that will spend three years in barrel. Incorporating 3% Viognier, the 2016 Côte Rôtie La Sarrazine is slightly less concentrated, with more freshness in its black raspberry, currant, crushed rock and violet aromas and flavors. Nicely balanced, fresh and focused, with moderate tanning, it will have years of prime drinking. The 2016 Côte Rôtie La Viallière sees the highest percentage of Viognier and is 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier that will spend two years in a mix of demi-muids and barrels. It s a ripe, sexy red, loaded with notions of black cherries, chocolate, Domaine de Bonserine years. Similarly purple-colored, the 2015 Côte Rôtie Côte Rozier offers more minerality as well as hints of oak, in its ripe black raspberry-l ke fruits, spice, and dried flower aromas and flavors. It s a ripe, sexy, polished Côte Rôtie that will drink nicely for years. Lastly, the 2015 Côte Rôtie Les Rochains is another terrific red from this estate. Full-bodied, nicely concentrated, ripe and polished, it too has a slightly modern style as well as notes of cassis, toasted spices, and toasty oak. Drink it anytime over the coming years. DOMAINE DE BONSERINE 2016 CONDRIEU NA WHITE 93 DOMAINE DE BONSERINE 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE LA GARDE NA RED DOMAINE DE BONSERINE 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE LA SARRAZINE NA RED DOMAINE DE BONSERINE 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE LA VIALLIÈRE NA RED DOMAINE DE BONSERINE 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE LA GARDE NA RED DOMAINE DE BONSERINE 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE LA SARRAZINE NA RED DOMAINE DE BONSERINE 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE LA VIALLIÈRE NA RED Winemaker David Reynaud makes a bevy of rock-solid wines from his estate in Crozes-Hermitage. The prices are good, and the quality is high, which works for me. The 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Betises Blanc from Reynaud is impressive, with lots of exotic tropical fruits, honeysuckle and spice aromas and flavors. Rich, beautifully textured, rounded and mouthfilling, yet still fresh and lively, it s a terrific white from this estate. A blend of 60% Marsanne and 40% Roussanne, aged in concrete and barrels, it should drink nicely for at least 3-5 years. The 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Beaumont is a solid effort in the vintage and offers plenty of fruit and texture. Black raspberries, plums, leather, Domaines Les Bruyères David Reynaud roasted herbs and minerality. A big, rich, impressively textured wine, with sweet tannin, it should be relatively accessible in its youth. The star of the show is the 2015 Côte Rôtie La Garde, 100% Syrah from the Côte Blond and Côte Brune lieux-dits. Only 60% destemmed, it will spend a full three years in barrel. Boasting a deep purple color as well as classic notes of violets, caramelized meats, cassis, and spice, it has plenty of oak, yet is concentrated, perfectly balanced, and has both good acidity and tannin. It s a rock star wine, but it s going to require patience. The 2015 Côte Rôtie La Sarrazine is more classic in style, with less noticeable oak, as well notes of spring flowers, blackcurrants, lots of minerality, and plenty of spiced meat nuances. It s more firm and focused than the Viallière release, yet is balanced, elegant and long. It looks to be another terrific wine from this estate. Lastly, the 2015 Côte Rôtie La Viallière (95% Syrah and 5% Viognier) comes from a terrific lieu-dit in the northern part of the appellation. Aging in a mix of small barrels and demi-muids, it offers an exotic, floral character as well as plenty of black and blue fruits, olive and sappy herbs nuances, full-bodied richness, and a plump, sexy, voluptuous style on the palate. It s terrific stuff. DOMAINES LES BRUYÈRES - DAVID REYNAUD 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE BETISES BLANC $24 WHITE 91 DOMAINES LES BRUYÈRES - DAVID REYNAUD 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE BEAUMONT $20 RED 87 DOMAINES LES BRUYÈRES - DAVID REYNAUD 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE GEORGES $22 RED 90 DOMAINES LES BRUYÈRES - DAVID REYNAUD 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE LES CROIX $28 RED 92 Cave de Tain pepper and plenty of dried bouquet garni notes give way to a mediumbodied, chewy, enjoyable, rustic red to drink over the coming 4-5 years. The 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Georges from David Reynaud is the larger production cuvée and has a lifted, slightly volatile style in its violet, incense, plum and olive aromas and flavors. Supple, polished, ripe and medium to full-bodied on the palate, with fine tannin, it s a pleasure-bent effort to drink over the coming 4-6 years. The limited production release is the 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Les Croix. It has a similar lifted style in its plum, blueberries, violets and incense aromas and flavors, yet it s more balanced and harmonious. Medium to full-bodied, supple and elegant on the palate, with fine but moderate tannin, it will benefit from short-term cellaring. CAVE DE TAIN 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE GRAND CLASSIQUE BLANC NA WHITE 88 CAVE DE TAIN 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE LES HAUTS D EOLE BLANC NA WHITE 88+ CAVE DE TAIN 2016 HERMITAGE AU COEUR DES SIÈCLES BLANC NA WHITE 93 CAVE DE TAIN 2016 HERMITAGE GRAND CLASSIQUE BLANC NA WHITE 88 CAVE DE TAIN 2016 SAINT JOSEPH GRAND CLASSIQUE BLANC NA WHITE 90 CAVE DE TAIN 2016 SAINT JOSEPH TERRE D IVOIRE BLANC NA WHITE 93 CAVE DE TAIN 2016 SAINT-PÉRAY FLEUR DE ROC $20 WHITE 90 CAVE DE TAIN 2016 SAINT-PÉRAY GRAND CLASSIQUE NA WHITE 87 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE LES HAUTS D EOLE BLANC NA WHITE 92 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 HERMITAGE AU COEUR DES SIÈCLES BLANC NA WHITE 93 Page 5

6 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 HERMITAGE GRAND CLASSIQUE BLANC NA WHITE 88 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 SAINT JOSEPH GRAND CLASSIQUE BLANC NA WHITE 89 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 SAINT JOSEPH TERRE D IVOIRE BLANC NA WHITE 91 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 SAINT-PÉRAY GRAND CLASSIQUE NA WHITE 87 CAVE DE TAIN 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE GRAND CLASSIQUE NA RED CAVE DE TAIN 2015 CORNAS ARENES SAUVAGES NA RED 92 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 CORNAS GRAND CLASSIQUE NA RED 90 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE GRAND CLASSIQUE NA RED 89 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE LES HAUTS DU FIEF NA RED 93+ CAVE DE TAIN 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE NORD NA RED 92 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE TERROIRS D EXCEPTION BM NA RED 90+ CAVE DE TAIN 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE TERROIRS D EXCEPTION LA NA RED 93 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 HERMITAGE GRAND CLASSIQUE NA RED 91 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 HERMITAGE GAMBERT DE LOCHE NA RED 95 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 HERMITAGE EPSILON NA RED 98 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 SAINT JOSEPH ESPRIT DE GRANIT NA RED 92 CAVE DE TAIN 2015 SAINT JOSEPH GRAND CLASSIQUE NA RED 89 This incredible co-op is located on the southern end of Tain l Hermitage, just at the base of the famed Hermitage Hill. While most co-ops make wine from mostly purchased grapes, this co-op owns a large portion of their vineyards, including prime parcels in Hermitage. Couple this with a brand new, state of the art winery and you have a recipe for terrific wines. As I ve said in the past, they might be the best co-op in the world! Made from 100% Marsanne, the 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Grand Classique Blanc is a classic white from this appellation. Green apples, citrus, hints of crushed rocks, and leafy herbs all flow to a medium-bodied, nicely textured, enjoyable white that s going to drink nicely for 5-6 years. The 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Les Hauts D Eole Blanc offers lots of racy citrus and lime characteristics, with hints of mint and exotic flowers, in a medium-bodied, fresh, almost tart style. I like its depth of fruit on the palate, yet it certainly has plenty of acidity. Give bottles a year or two. One of the gems in the lineup is the 2016 Hermitage Au Cœur Des Siècles Blanc, which is 100% Marsanne pulled from some of the oldest vines of the estate. Brought up in 50% new barrels, it offers classic notes of orange blossom, caramelized citrus, white currants, and smoked earth. With a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, yet fresh, mineral-laced style, it can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade or more. The 2016 Hermitage Grand Classique Blanc is another bright, fresh, lively white from this terrific co-op. Apple blossom, green citrus, and sappy herbs all emerge from this medium-bodied, well-made effort that s ideal for drinking over the coming 3-4 years. The 2016 Saint Joseph Grand Classique Blanc is, as the name suggests, classic. Caramelized citrus, honeysuckle and white currant notes all flow to a medium bodied, fresh, elegant white that has terrific balance and purity. Drink it over the coming 7-8 years. Made from 100% Marsanne brought up mostly in older barrels, the 2016 Saint Joseph Terre D Ivoire Blanc sports a medium gold color as well terrific notes of sautéed pineapple, melon, leafy herbs and hints of green citrus. Fresh, lively and pure, with lots of minerality on the finish, this balanced 2016 will put on weight with another year in bottle and keep for a decade or more. Another wine based all on Marsanne, the 2016 Saint-Péray Fleur De Roc has a fresh, steely bouquet of green apple, citrus blossom and lime peel. It s clean, nicely concentrated and v brant, and I suspect will be even better with another year in bottle. The larger production cuvée is the 2016 Saint-Péray Grand Classique. One hundred percent Marsanne aged in a mix of tank and barrel, it offers classic notes of citrus blossom and tangerine, medium body, integrated acidity, and a clean, straightforward style on the palate. Drink it over the coming 2-3 years. The 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Les Hauts d Eole Blanc is lightly colored, yet packs plenty of intensity in its apple blossom, caramelized citrus, white flower and brioche-like aromas and flavors. Made from 100% Marsanne, it has medium to full-bodied richness, beautiful purity of fruit, and a concentrated, rich, textured style. It should age beautifully. I dramatically underrated this wine last year. The 2015 Hermitage Au Coeur Des Siècles Blanc offers lots of richness and depth, yet has a classic, concentrated style as well as lots of caramelized citrus, honeysuckle, brioche and mineral aromas and flavors. This is another white that showed much better than last year, and it should continue drinking nicely for a decade or more. The base 2015 Hermitage Grand Classique Blanc is well worth checking out. It offers a classic, enjoyable style in its white currants, brioche, charcoal, and caramelized citrus character. Medium to full-bodied, with good acidity, and a clean finish, it s ideal for drinking over the coming3-5 years. There are two Saint Joseph releases. The larger production 2015 Saint Joseph Grand Classique Blanc is 100% Marsanne that was brought up two-thirds in barrel and one-third in tank. It offers a very fresh, lively style in its citrus blossom, honeysuckle and mineral bouquet. This gives way to a balanced, clean, classically styled white that will keep for a decade. Also from 100% Marsanne, yet brought up all in barrel, the 2015 Saint Joseph Terre D Ivoire Blanc offers more depth and length, as well as terrific notes of caramelized lime, brioche, honeysuckle and distinct minerality. Clean, fresh, and elegant on the palate, with impeccable balance, drink it over the coming 7-8 years. The 2015 Saint-Péray Grand Classique is 100% Marsanne and was raised in a mix of tank and barrel. Apple blossom, stone fruits, rocky minerality, and plenty of herbal notes give way to a nicely textured, balanced, enjoyable white that has good acidity and freshness. Drink it over the coming year or two. Leading off the reds, I was only able to taste a single 2016 for the Cave de Tain. Their 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Grand Classique looks to be a solid effort, offering lots of black cherries, blueberries, violets, and spice aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, nicely concentrated and textured on the palate, with solid density and fat, drink it over the coming 5-7 years. Brought up in 40% new 400-liter barrels, the 2015 Cornas Arenes Sauvages is a ripe, incredibly sexy Cornas that s loaded with notions of blackcurrants, beef blood, tapenade and peppery herbs. Rich, full-bodied, ripe and textured, it s a seriously good mouthful of fruit that s going to keep for a decade or so. Slightly more focused and elegant, with lots of ripe blackberry, leafy herbs, damp earth and pepper aromatics, the 2015 Cornas Grand Classique is medium to full-bodied, ripe, polished, and si ky on the palate. It s certainly an outstanding wine and should keep for a decade. The largest production cuvée is the 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Grand Classique. This pure, clean, classic Northern Rhône Syrah is well worth your time and money. Blackberries, crushed rocks, and lots of peppery herbs all flow from this rounded, approachable, nicely balanced Syrah that s ideal for drinking over the coming 4-6 years. A selection of old vine parcels, the 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Les Hauts Du Fief comes from the more granite, northern part of the appellation and was brought up in 40% new 400-liter barrels. Its deep purple plum color is followed by a terrific bouquet of black fruits, licorice, roasted herbs and ample minerality. With impressive purity, integrated acidity, plenty of toasty oak and ripe tannin, it too needs 2-3 years of cellaring to show its ultimate potential. The 2015 Crozes-Hermitage Nord comes from a selection of vineyards and all granite soils. It has terrific freshness and purity, classic notes of black raspberries and cassis, hints of toasty oak, and fine, polished tannin. It s a beautiful, ripe, balanced Crozes that needs 2-3 years of bottle age. The 2015 Crozes-Hermitage BM comes from the southeastern part of Crozes and was brought up mostly in tank, yet with 20% in second and third fill barrels. It was closed and tough to read on this occasion, yet offered good density and weight in its dark fruits, forest floor and peppery herbs/tapenade aromatics. Rounded, full-bodied and nicely textured, give bottles a few years. The 2015 Crozes-Hermitage La comes from the northern, more granitic soils around Larnage and was brought up mostly in barrel. Black raspberries, toasted spice, incense and dried floral notes all emerge from the glass, and it s ripe, rounded and incredibly sexy on the palate. I ve often called this the best co-op in the world, and this cuvée certainly doesn t change my opinion. Leading off the Hermitage releases, the 2015 Hermitage Grand Classique is an outstanding effort, revealing lots of minerality, smoked black fruits and leather aromas and flavors. Showing loads of granite character, it s medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated, and has fine tannin. It can be drunk now, but will be at its best from The 2015 Hermitage Gambert De Loche is a killer wine as well. Blackberries, cassis, beef blood, and salty minerality all give way to a huge, rich, seriously concentrated Hermitage that has tons of minerality, classic spice and saddle leather nuances, and a big finish. Coming from old vines in the Page 6

7 Méal, Hermite, Murets, la Beaume and la Croix lieux-dits and aged in 70% new Burgundy barrels, drink it anytime over the coming 20+ years. The top cuvée from this superb co-op, the 2015 Hermitage Epsilon comes from equal parts Méal and l Hermite. It offers a sensational perfume of blackberry liqueur, cassis, burning embers, pen ink and graphite. Enormously concentrated, rich and powerful, with building tannin, it has a bloody, salty quality on the finish and could come from nowhere else than these magical slopes. it s more approachable than the 2010 was at this Aside from a boring Condrieu, the latest 2015s from Dumazet are solid efforts. Both reds are terrific values! The 2015 Condrieu L Ensectrale is a medium-bodied, already evolved effort offering notes of bruised apple, buttered citrus and orange peel. It s best drunk up. The 2015 Cornas Charlemagne is downright meaty and gamey, with loads of olive tapenade, pepper and spiced dark fruit aromas and flavor. Cave Dumazet stage, yet needs to be forgotten for 7-8 years. The 2015 Saint Joseph Esprit De Granite is another terrific wine from this co-op. Cassis, black raspberry, peppery herbs and hints of graphite all give way to a full-bodied, concentrated, pure Syrah that has classic Granite character, integrated acidity and a solid finish. The 2015 Saint Joseph Grand Classique offers lots of spice, plum and incense aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and a forward, delicious, charming style. CAVE DUMAZET 2015 CONDRIEU L ENSECTRALE $22 WHITE 85 CAVE DUMAZET 2015 CORNAS CHARLEMAGNE $16 RED 90 CAVE DUMAZET 2015 SAINT JOSEPH LA MUZOLAISE $15 RED 89 The 2016 Saint Joseph House Of Wine Blue Label is a young, exuberant, fruity effort offering lots of blackberry fruit, plenty of peppery herbs, medium-bodied depth and richness, and a balanced, enjoyable style. Drink it on release and over the following 3-4 years. The 2015 Saint Joseph Coeur De Rochevine comes from terraced, granite soils and is a beautiful wine. Brought up in 60% new barrels, it boasts a deep purple color, terrific notes of cassis, dried herbs, licorice and Cave Saint Désirat Medium to full-bodied, rounded and opulent on the palate, it has terrific ripeness and a surprisingly decadent texture. It s old school all the way. Drink it over the coming decade or so. The 2015 Saint Joseph La Muzolaise from Cave Dumazet is solid stuff, offering lots of menthol, white pepper and incense, as well as loads of red and blue fruits, good acidity and building tannin. It shows the fruit of this terrific vintage and will drink nicely for 7-8 years. CAVE SAINT DÉSIRAT 2016 SAINT JOSEPH HOUSE OF WINE BLUE LABEL NA RED CAVE SAINT DÉSIRAT 2015 SAINT JOSEPH COEUR DE ROCHEVINE $60 RED 91 CAVE SAINT DÉSIRAT 2015 SAINT JOSEPH SEPTENTRIO $27 RED 88 M. Chapoutier toasted spices, medium to full-bodied richness and sweet tannin. It s just another rocking 2015 that s going to drink nicely for a decade. The 2015 Saint Joseph Septentrio comes from the southern portion of the appellation and was brought up in 50% new oak. With lots of crème de cassis, toasted spices, licorice, and peppery aromas and flavors, this medium-bodied, nicely balanced, well-made Saint Joseph is ideal for drinking over the coming 7-8 years. M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 VIN DE FRANCE ESTEBAN BIO NA SPARKLING 89 M. CHAPOUTIER 2013 SAINT PÉRAY LA MUSE DE RW NA SPARKLING M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 IGP COLLINES RHODANIENNES LA COMBE PILATE NA WHITE 92 M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CONDRIEU INVITARE NA WHITE 91 M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CONDRIEU COTEAU DE CHERY NA WHITE M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT PÉRAY LES TANNEURS NA WHITE 90 M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT PÉRAY LIEU DIT HONGRIE NA WHITE M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE LA PETITE RUCHE BLANC NA WHITE 89 M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE LES MEYSONNIERS BLANC NA WHITE 91 M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH DESCHANTS BLANC NA WHITE 91 M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH LES GRANILITES BLANC NA WHITE 92 M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH LES GRANITS BLANC $105 WHITE M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 HERMITAGE CHANTE ALOUETTE NA WHITE M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 ERMITAGE CUVÉE DE L ORÉE $370 WHITE M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 ERMITAGE LE MÉAL BLANC $330 WHITE M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 ERMITAGE L ERMITE BLANC $815 WHITE M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CORNAS LES ARÊNES NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE LES BÉCASSES NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE QUATUOR NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE NEVE NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CÔTE RÔTIE LA MORDORÉE NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE LA PETITE RUCHE NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CROZES-HERMITAGE LES MEYSONNIERS NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 CROZES ERMITAGE LES VARONNIERS $85 RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH DESCHANTS NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH LES GRANILITES NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH LES GRANITS $100 RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 SAINT JOSEPH LE CLOS $200 RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 HERMITAGE MONIER DE LA SIZERANNE NA RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 ERMITAGE LE MÉAL $380 RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 ERMITAGE LES GREFFIEUX $240 RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 ERMITAGE LE PAVILLON $505 RED Page 7

8 M. CHAPOUTIER 2016 ERMITAGE L ERMITE $565 RED M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 CORNAS LES ARÊNES NA RED 93 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE LES BÉCASSES NA RED 92 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE QUATUOR NA RED 94 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE NEVE NA RED 96 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 CÔTE RÔTIE LA MORDORÉE NA RED 100 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 CROZES-HERMITAGE LES MEYSONNIERS NA RED 90 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 CROZES ERMITAGE LES VARONNIERS $85 RED 99 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 SAINT JOSEPH DESCHANTS NA RED 91 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 SAINT JOSEPH LES GRANILITES NA RED 92 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 SAINT JOSEPH LES GRANITS $100 RED 97 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 SAINT JOSEPH LE CLOS $200 RED 99 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 HERMITAGE MONIER DE LA SIZERANNE NA RED 93 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 ERMITAGE LES GREFFIEUX $240 RED 98 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 ERMITAGE LE MÉAL $380 RED 100 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 ERMITAGE LE PAVILLON $505 RED 100 M. CHAPOUTIER 2015 ERMITAGE L ERMITE $565 RED 100 Enough can t be said about the quality coming from the estate of Michel Chapoutier. Taking over the domaine from his father in the late 1980s (his first vintage was 1989), Michel quickly moved the estate completely to biodynamic farming as well as building a new, state of the art winery located just outside of Tain l Hermitage. These are classic, traditionally made wines that are never acidified (or chaptalized), are brought up mostly in demimuids (with plenty of used oak), and bottled unfined and unfiltered. He also continues to grow the brand (this is easily one of the largest tastings I do every year from a single producer) and has added two new Côte Rôties in 2015, the Quatuor and Neve cuvees. The Quatuor is reserved for grapes that didn t make it into the selection parcellaire releases, and the Neve comes from a single parcel in the northern part of the appellation. Both are impressive wines, although I don t envy anyone trying to explain the full portfolio to buyers in the market. In addition, while it s easy to focus on the top cuvées from this estate, the portfolio is packed with incredible values at just about every price point. These reviews focus on the 2015 and 2016 vintages, with all the 2015s tasted out of bottle and the majority of the 2016s still resting in barrel. The 2015 vintage is a monumental one for this estate and matches (and in a few cases, eclipses) what was accomplished in 2009 and These are ripe, concentrated, structured wines that are going to demand cellar time. In contrast, the 2016s are more elegant and silky, with terrific purity of fruit. They don t have the sheer grandeur of fruit found in the 2015s, yet are seriously concentrated and have no shortage of tannins and structure. Starting with the 2016 whites and based largely on Viognier, the 2016 Vin De France Esteban Bio is another delicious sparkler that comes from vines planted around Michel s house. Loads of apple and pear notes all emerge from this terrific, refreshing, yet beautifully textured, rich effort that has bright acidity. It s a high-quality effort and a joy to drink. The 2013 Saint Péray La Muse De RW offers a deeper, richer nose as well as more buttered citrus, orchard fruits and a delicious saltiness that shows on the palate. It has a fine mousse, yet it s a rich, powerful sparkler that really speaks to Marsanne. Made from 100% Viognier, the 2016 IGP Collines Rhodaniennes La Combe Pilate is a ripe, unctuous beauty that boasts a huge nose of ripe peach, orange blossom, and honeysuckle. Rich, medium to full-bodied and textured, it s a mini (maybe not so mini) Condrieu. The base-level Condrieu is the 2016 Condrieu Invitare, which comes from vines throughout the appellation (more from the northern part). It s a great wine for readers looking to understand Condrieu and has classic notes of apricots, citrus blossom and distinct minerality, with the richness the variety is known for, while staying fresh and lively. It will keep for 4-5 years. Not yet bottled, the 2016 Condrieu Coteau De Chery is also straight up awesome. Orange marmalade, citrus oil, exotic flowers and hints of minerality all flow to a full-bodied, rich, unctuous Condrieu that stays lively and elegant. It s a true wow Condrieu and is certainly one of the gems in the vintage. Clean and straight, with notes of buttered peach, white flowers and mineral, the 2016 Saint Péray Les Tanneurs is fresh and lively on the palate, with a clean, focused style. It s going to put on weight with time bottle and drink well for 2-3 years. The 2016 Saint Péray Lieu Dit Hongrie is a seriously good Saint Péray and a candidate for the wine of the appellation. Buttered stone fruits, apple peel, crushed rocks and brioche notes all flow to a medium to full-bodied, ripe, beautifully textured white that has terrific purity and length. There s a touch a salty minerality on the finish and it s going to drink nicely right out of the gate, yet evolve for a decade or more. Buttered apple, honeycomb and hints of spice all emerge from the 2016 Crozes-Hermitage La Petite Ruche Blanc. Medium-bodied, juicy and lively on the palate, with more richness and depth than the price would have you believe, the quality of this cuvée has soared over the past decade. Medium gold colored, the 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers Blanc is more exotic, with lots of pineapple, spice (celery seed), and buttered citrus aromas. Medium-bodied, fresh and lively on the palate, it too has beautiful richness and depth, all for a rock-solid price. Drink it over the coming 2-3 years. Moving to the Saint Joseph releases, the 2016 Saint Joseph Deschants Blanc is clean and classy, with bright acidity It offers lots of white peach, pear, and citrus notes, with hints of minerality, medium-bodied richness, and a clean, yet rich and textured style on the palate. Slightly deeper gold in color, the 2016 Saint Joseph Les Granilites Blanc (100% Marsanne all from fine, granite soils) was bottled late in June (the entry-level whites are bottled in April), fermented partially in demi-muid and foudre, and aged in 10% new barrels (there are parts in foudre and stainless steel). Buttered citrus, crushed rocks, white flowers and a kiss of honeysuckle give way to a medium bodied, balanced, impressive white that has richness and freshness, as well as loads of character. Drink it over the coming 4-5 years. One of my favorite whites in the world is the Les Granites Blanc from Chapoutier, and the 2016 Saint Joseph Les Granits Blanc is no exception. Scheduled to be bottled just after my tasting, it s a sensationally rich, elegant Marsanne that has tons of buttered citrus, orange blossom, liquid rock and honeysuckle aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and balanced on the palate, with excellent acidity and a great finish, this is a wine not to be missed. Leading off the Hermitage Blanc releases and a wine that always delivers the goods, the 2016 Hermitage Chante Alouette is another smoky, meaty, mineral-laced white from this team that is worthy of a case purchase. Orange blossom, pineapple and spice nuances all flow to a medium to fullbodied beauty that has solid mid-palate depth, terrific purity, and a big finish. It blossoms with time in the glass and will evolve for upwards of two decades. Leading off the three single vineyard whites, the 2016 Ermitage Cuvée De L Orée is a huge, unctuous white that delivers the goods. Orange marmalade, buttered citrus, honeycomb and brioche all soar from the glass. Possessing a thick, full-bodied style, huge mid-palate concentration, and a great, great finish, it s one of the world s greatest dry whites, year in, year out, and 2016 isn t going to break that trend. Like the de Cuvée de L Orée, only even richer, with huge buttered citrus, crushed rock, and orange blossom aromatics, the 2016 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc hits the palate with red wine-like structure and tannin, full-bodied richness, bright acidity, and incredible length. It too has a liquid rock-l ke minerality and is a prodigious effort from this estate. Lastly, the 2016 Ermitage L Ermite Blanc is a barrel sample that has perfection written all over it. Always the most mineraldriven, with a liqueur of rocks-like character in its citrus oil, floral, quince and caramelized peach aromatics, this beauty is unctuous, thick, and voluptuous on the palate, with incred ble richness that s never heavy, cumbersome or over the top. It always benefits from the most time in bottle, so I wouldn t touch bottles for at least 3-4 years after the vintage. Leading off the reds, I loved the 2016 Cornas Les Arênes. This black cherry, earthy, and olive scented barrel sample has surprising tannic grip and a tight, firm style. With medium to full-bodied richness and outstanding potential, forget bottles for 2-3 years and drink over the following decade. There are four releases from Côte Rôtie. The entry-level 2016 Côte Rôtie Les Bécasses gives up lots of pretty black cherry and raspberry fruit, medium-bodied richness, fine, present tannin, and an elegant style on the palate. It s a finesse-driven, complex Côte Rôtie I suspect will drink nicely right out of the gate. A new wine all from estate parcels that didn t make the cut for the Selection Parcellaires (these are all farmed bio-dynamically), the 2016 Côte Rôtie Quatuor comes from the Côte Brune, Côte Blonde, Tupin, and Verenay lieux-dits, which include all three of the main terroirs of the appellation. Vinified in concrete and aged in foudre, demi-muid and barrels, 20% new, it offers notably more finesse and elegance over the Côte Rôtie Page 8