Foodways in Asia: Soy Sauce in the East Asia and Fish Sauce in the Southeast Asia Tetsuya Araki Graduate School of Agricultural and Life Sciences The University of Tokyo 1-1-1, Yayoi, Bunkyo Ward, Tokyo, 113-8657, Japan E-mail: aaraki@mail.ecc.u-tokyo.ac.jp Foodways Food culture or dietary culture Foodways are the patterns that establish what we eat, as well as how and why and under what circumstances we eat (Edge, 2007). Foodways: a series of moments in which food is first produced in close interaction with the natural world (farming, fishing, hunting), processed to varying degrees, and then distributed to and procured by individuals, households, or organizations that then prepare, serve, and/or consume it (Guptill et al., 2013). 1
East and Southeast Asian Context [What we eat] Rice has been the staple food in the East and Southeast Asian regions since the beginning of agricultural culture. [how and why and under what circumstances we eat] One of the reason is that both East and Southeast Asian regions are highly populated areas, and then rice had a great capability to deal with the population increase. Contents 1. 8 main foodways around the world 2. Say sauce in East Asia 3. Fish sauce in Southeast Asia 4. Fermented foods as cultural concept 5. Cultural zone of umami taste 6. Conclusion 2
8 Main Foodways (the World of the 15 th Century) Spices and Herbs (in Europe) Tabil (in Arab) Oil Plant (in Africa) Masala (in India) Soy sauce (in East Asia) Fish sauce (in Southeast Asia) 1492 Start of Columbian Exchange Red pepper (in the New World) Coconut palm (in South Pacific) Ishige and Ruddle (1990) 8 Cultural Zones in terms of Condiments and Seasonings Red Pepper in the New World Coconut Palm in South Pacific Oil Plant in Africa Spices and herbs in Europe Tabil in Arab Masala in India Soy sauce in East Asia Fish sauce in Southeast Asia 3
East Asia: Zone of Soy Sauce The sauce made by fermenting beans (and cereals) with salt and rice malt is called soy sauce, one of the typical taste in East Asia. Soy sauce Soybeans Sushi Miso (Fermented soybean paste) Southeast Asia: Zone of Fish Sauce Fish sauce is distributed in the Southeast Asian regions where rice has been traditionally cultivated. Nam Pla in Thailand Sambal Terasi in Indonesia 4
Fish Sauce Series and Narezushi Series Fermented sushi + - Rice Fish and salt + - Fermentation Fish sauce Salted fish Fermented Foods as Cultural Concept Fermented food is the very cultural concept because there are no scientific difference between fermented and rotten foods. Both fermentation and rottenness are the phenomena that organic substances are decomposed by microorganisms to generate some substances. Severe criticism on salted fish guts in Asia by the people in Euro-American dietary culture Fermented foods in different cultures 5
MSG (monosodium glutamate) as Umami Taste Glutamic acid (Umami from kelp; discovered by Kikunae Ikeda) Inosinic acid (Umami from dried bonito; discovered by Shitaro Kodama) Guanylic acid (Umami from shiitake mushroom; discovered by Akira Kuninaka) Significant contribution of Japanese researchers and companies on Umami research and commercialization Relationship between glutamic acid content and market price of fish sauce in Rangoon, Myanmar Glutamic acid (g/dl) The taste of glutamic acid (Umami taste) was highly evaluated in the market of fish sauce. Market price of fish sauce Ishige and Ruddle (1990) 6
Cultural Zones of Umami: Soy Sauce and Fish Sauce East Asia is dominated by soy sauce. Southeast Asia is dominated by fish sauce. Ishige and Ruddle (1990) Conclusion 1. Fermented food is the very cultural concept because there are no scientific difference between fermented and rotten foods. 2. Foodways in the East and Southeast Asian countries are categorized into the cultural zone of Umami taste. 3. From the viewpoint of fermented seasoning, the East Asian countries are dominated by soy sauce, while the Southeast Asian countries by fish sauce. Thank you for your attention!! 7