CHICKEN. NEXT MEETING: Vander Mill 505 Ball Ave. NE Grand Rapids Competition 6:00 / Meeting 7:00 July 20, From the Prez Brewing Lagers

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1 The RUBBER CHICKEN NEXT MEETING: Vander Mill 505 Ball Ave. NE Competition 6:00 / Meeting 7:00 July 20, 2016 From the Prez Brewing Lagers This last few weeks saw a couple firsts for me. The first first is that this is the first time I have ever brewed an American Lager, or Standard American Pilsner per the old BJCP Guidelines. I brewed Bud. I brewed America! The second first is that this is the first time I have brewed three lagers in a row. I brewed the American Lager first, then I brewed a Festbier, and followed that up with a Classic American Pilsner, or a Pre Prohibition Pilsner per the new BJCP Guidelines. There are many schools of thought on lager brewing, having to do with how long it takes to brew and finish a lager. The Big Boys do it fast. Anheuser Bush for instance produces Budweiser with only one week of primary fermentation and 3 weeks of secondary/ lagering. The key to this is their Beechwood ageing process where the porosity of the beechwood allows for a greater contact area between the yeast, which flocculated onto the beechwood strips, and the beer resulting in a shorter maturation time. So, no, they don t wood age their beer with beechwood. The beechwood is just a carrier for their yeast. But I digress. Other ways the BudMillerCoors guys turns out their lagers so quickly is they ferment under pressure. The increased pressure reduces the amount of off flavors (diacetyl and acetaldehyde) produced, so they can ferment at a higher temperature producing a faster ferment, and lower off flavors. And when you don t produce the off flavors, you don t have to lager them out. That s really the trick, I think. Lagers are tricky, because lager yeasts are finicky. They need just the right temps, the right amount of oxygen, nutrition, etc. Yeast needs to be happy, and lager yeast is hard to please. It s rather difficult at the Homebrew level to maintain a beechwood based yeast inoculator, or to ferment under pressure. So for the most part, we have to rely on temperature management, oxygenation and yeast pitch rates. Some instructions would have you pitch at a temperature above your fermentation target (65-68 F), to get a healthy yeast population and cut down on your lag time. Then once you see the start of fermentation, you chill it down to That does work, and you will get a fast start, but at what cost? During the yeast growth phase the yeast is absorbing nutrients, and propagating to its optimal concentration. This is also when it makes the precursors to most of the off flavors (esters, diacetyl and fusel alcohols) you have to get rid of (lager out) later. So if you don t produce those precursors, you don t have to remove them. The better option is to pitch a larger yeast starter into a well oxygenated wort at your intended fermentation temperature. You may have a longer lag time, but the payoff will be a cleaner beer at the end of fermentation that requires less or no lagering. Sure, you can/should still lager to drop it bright, but you don t have to do it for weeks to clean it up. So, borrowing information from Greg Noonan, an acceptable procedure for brewing clean, fast lagers is: -Make a big starter. You can build your yeast up at room temp, and let the starter make all the off flavors it wants to. You ll decant the off flavored liquid from the yeast before pitching. -Brew your beer, and chill it as low as you can. I can t counter flow chill it to pitching temps, but I can get it close. Oxygenate and chill the wort to pitching temps, 48-50F. I usually chill the yeast starter in the lager fridge at the same time, so I pitch it all at the same temp. -Pitch cold, and every other day, bump the fermentation temperature up 1 degree. Once you hit 60F, you should be pretty close to full attenuation. In 20 days. If you want to do an off flavors check, take about 10-20mls of beer, seal it in a jar, and put it under hot running water. Let it get good and warm, almost hot. Then remove the lid, and take a sniff. If you don t get DMS, diacetyl or acetaldehyde, you do not need to lager. If you do get a whiff of off flavors, you can rack to secondary, or keg it, and give it a diacetyl rest at 65-68F. This allows the yeast to get more active, and consume the off flavor precursors. I brewed the first lager, American Lager, on June 1st. I brewed my Festbier June 17th, and the Pre Prohibition Pils was brewed on July 10th. I guess we ll see how the American Lager tastes Wednesday!

2 B T B BY DICK THUNDER Founding Father. in then Old Kent Bank s tax department. If ever he were to be in the circus, he said he would tend the animals or work in the background to bring the show together. If he were a bicycle he would be the frame. The part that supports the whole contraption. I suppose it was this dedicated supportive quiet demeanor that gave him the nickname the Pious Swede. Every club needs guys like Larry Simonson. Grounded. Steady. Reliable. No, not George Washington, John Adams, or Thomas Jefferson. I m talking about the man that named our club, and served as the first president of the Primetime Brewers in its current form. Larry Simonson was there. Larry Simonson is still here. First, a little club history. Rumor has it that we have a club newsletter called the Rub a Waterfowl or whatever that has featured a piece about club history. I will briefly touch on the history here because nobody remembers that article or knows who wrote it anyway. What we call Primetime Brewers has roots going back to the late 70s. Local homebrewers had been meeting up to share their beers and ideas. They organized into a group called GRAB ( Area Brewers) then into Brewer Of Zymotic Omnifarious Suds or BOZOS. The name was later changed to Primetime Brewers, a much more dignified name for a much more dignified group. When Larry first joined the club in 1990, the club was more like a drinking club that met in members homes. They had no specific agenda other than drinking together. Within a few years, the club decided to take things more seriously. They wanted to register with the AHA as an officially sanctioned and organized homebrew club. The members decided that the name BOZOS had the wrong ring to it. They needed a new name. Larry suggested the name Primetime Brewers; a clever play on a good time and bottling. A close second to Primetime was GRABASS ( Area Brewers Association of Serious Suds). Thank you Larry. Larry was chosen to take this new bona fide club into a new era as its president. So, Larry Simonson was the first president of the Primetime Brewers. Larry is the sort of guy that likes to work in the background, eschewing the lime light. He would never brag about naming the club, or serving as first Prez and laying the foundation for the club to grow into what it is today. Much like the esteemed author of this article, Larry s background is in Law. Even as an attorney he is the advisor type, not a flashy litigator type. He worked for years in Whitehall for himself before taking a position In 1989, Larry finally decided to cast off the yoke of oppressive beer selection and began brewing his own beer. He has found in his decades of brewing, that he likes to brew Porters and Stouts. He says they are forgiving and satisfying. He also likes Belgians and wishes he could dial his Belgians in a bit more. Larry s favorite beer is Bell s Two Hearted Ale, but if he had to only ever drink one beer for the rest of his life he would choose Fullers ESB. It is malty and balanced to drink easily anytime. When asked what he would drink if he could not drink beer, he said, I guess it would be Lemonade. Larry joined the club in This makes him the longest standing member of Primetime Brewers. 26 years! In his time with the club, from founding to present, he has seen the club grow from 10 guys drinking beer in someone s basement into a club that is very experienced, and competitive. He is proud of how Primetime Brewers has become known for its knowledge of both beer and the beer business. The comradery within Primetime keeps him coming back. His words of advice for the next generation of Primetime Brewers is to continue forging relationships and trying new things. He feels one good way for us to do this is to do more group brewdays. Get out there and mix it up with other brewers and learn something. That is how the club has built the reputation it has. Do what our Founding Father did, get involved. -DT

3 An Introduction to Kegging Homebrew by Duncan Bryant, AHA Web Coordinator Say goodbye to bottling and hello to the wonderful world of kegging! We re here to walk you through the basics of kegging your homebrew. It s easier than you may think! Parts & Components Kegs: Homebrewers tend to use five-gallon stainless steel Cornelius ( Corny ) kegs, which come in two types differentiated by their fittings: ball-lock or pin-lock. While people have reasons to favor one over the other, choose one and stick with it so you don t need to worry about different connectors and fittings. Connectors: Every keg has two connections, one for pushing in CO2 and the other for dispensing beer. Quickdisconnects are used for easy connection, which come in plastic or stainless steel. Pin lock gas and liquid connectors are noticeably different, but ball lock connectors can look nearly-identical, so consider buying different colors to quickly discern the gas connect from the beer connect. CO2 Tank: CO2 is the gas used to carbonate and push out the beer into your glass. Homebrewers tend to use fivepound tanks, which are easier to transport, but if you dispense a lot of beer and aren t worried about mobility a 20- gallon tank can be filled for only a few dollars more. If you choose to buy a tank, be sure it is certified. Regulator: A full CO2 tank holds a pressure of 800 PSI, which is way more than necessary for carbonating and serving beer, so a regulator is used to provide safe levels of CO2. The regulator screws onto the CO2 tank and allows you to set the preferred PSI and monitor the pressure with a gauge. Faucet: A faucet or tap is needed to control the flow of beer when serving. The cheapest option is to get a picnic tap, or you can build some sort of kegerator or jockeybox with a tap-handle for more attractive serving. Tubing: Food-grade tubing is needed to connect the CO2 and faucet to the quick-disconnects. O-Rings: O-rings are rubber circles used to create a tight seal in areas like the hatch of the keg. If you bought used kegs, it is wise to replace all the O-rings, especially if they have stains or an aroma. Disassembly & Cleaning If purchasing brand new kegs and components, it may not be necessary to clean before using but it never hurts! The best way to ensure everything is thoroughly clean is to completely disassemble the keg. Start by depressurizing the keg. If your keg has a pressure release valves, simply use this. If not, take a key or screwdriver and push down on the poppet of the gas-in fitting to allow gas to escape. Once this is done lift the bail of the hatch, lower it into the keg a few inches and remove. If the hatch doesn t budge, that most likely means there is still pressure in the keg that needs to be released. Releasing all pressure is very important, and if ignored can cause injury. After removing the hatch, you will notice a large O-ring around its top side. Remove the O-ring. Next, unscrew the gas and liquid fittings on the top of the keg and remove the dip tubes beneath them. Each fitting and each tube will have a small O-ring (four in total not counting the hatch O- ring). If you notice the O-rings are dirty or have an aroma, replace them. If the dip tubes are plastic and there are stainless steel options for your type of keg, it is strongly

4 encouraged upgrade. Once completely disassembled, the keg can be cleaned. First, rinse off any noticeable sediment inside the keg. Next, fill the keg with warm water and the appropriate amount of your preferred cleaner and throw in all the keg components. Allow the keg to soak for a few hours. If needed, use a carboy brush or something similar to get off any tedious stains or sediment. Empty the keg of the cleaning solution and replace all the fittings along with the O-rings, taking care that the fittings and tubes are replaced correctly. Again, fill the keg with warm water and cleaner, seal with the hatch, and set the keg upside down for a few hours to cleanse the top of the keg s inside. Rinse thoroughly multiple times with hot water. ground as it s connected to the CO2 to encourage more gas to dissolve into solution, though this is not recommended if your regulator does not have a check valve. You can also simply shake and slosh the keg around upright. Now for the fun part, serving and enjoying! Attach the picnic faucet or tap handle to the beer-out connect. Then, simply depress the lever of the faucet and watch your beautifully carbonated beer flow. Proper dispensing will take into account variables like the length and diameter of the tubing, which is also discussed in A Bottler s Guide to Kegging. Sanitation & Racking Once your beer is ready for serving and you have a clean keg, it s time to prepare the keg and transfer the beer. First, sanitize the assembled keg thoroughly by filling it up with water and adding your preferred sanitizer. No-rinse sanitizer is recommended to avoid the need of an additional rinse step. Allow the keg to sit with the sanitizer solution for minutes, then flip it upside down and let sit for minutes to sanitize the top portion. Remove the hatch, empty the keg, and leave upside down to allow to drip-dry. Once the keg is sanitized, it is time to prepare for racking by purging the keg of oxygen, which could cause oxidation. Connect the CO2 tank to the gas-in fitting and set the regulator to 5 PSI. Turn on the CO2, allow gas to flow for five seconds or so, and then turn off the CO2. Because CO2 is heavier than oxygen, it will fall to the bottom of the keg, forming a protective layer against oxygen as the beer is racked After the initial purge, rack the beer into the keg and seal the hatch. Again, set the regulator to 5 PSI, turn on the CO2 to fill the keg s head space, and turn off once you can no longer hear gas flowing. Open the pressure release valve to let the pressure out. Continue this process three or more times to purge remaining air from the headspace, and then shut off the CO2. Carbonation & Serving With the beer racked into the keg, it s time to carbonate. Using the recipe or style guidelines, determine the ideal carbonation level, measured in volumes of CO2, for the style you are kegging. Generally speaking 2.0 volumes of CO2 will work if you are not sure where to start. With a target carbonation level in mind, next take the temperature of the beer in the keg. The colder the beer, the more easily CO2 is dissolved, so it will effect the desired level of pressure. Download a complimentary copy of A Bottler s Guide to Kegging and use Table 1 to determine the ideal level of pressure (PSI) to achieve the target carbonation level at the beer s current temperature. Now you re ready to carbonate. Hook up the CO2 to the keg and set the regulator to the PSI determined using the table mentioned above. Turn on the CO2 tank and listen for the flow of gas. As the pressure reaches equilibrium the gas will begin to slow and eventually stop, and because the keg is upright there is only a small surface area of beer for the CO2 to dissolve. While you can fully carbonate a keg with this method over the course of a few days, a little agitation will go a long way and carbonate the beer faster. Some will roll the keg on the June Meeting Notes: There was lots of good food & beer at the June meeting. Three appetizers, three entrées, & a plethora of deserts. A very special thanks to those who helped make the June beer & food paring a success! Laura Szczepanek aka The Polish Girl who let us use The Guest House for free for the meeting. And the judges Steph Harding, Mitten Brew Rick Muschiana, Beer Garden Ryan Engemann, Brewery Vivant Sheryl Rose, Mitten Brew Kati Spayde, Siciliano s Ryan Wasson, Pigeon Hill The competition style for August is a beer made with all Michigan ingredients. This includes malt, hops & yeast. You may modify the malts in your oven if you want to go with a darker beer. Yeast is available from Craft Cultures. They have a wide variety of cultures, & although not listed on the website, they will prepare smaller pitches for batches less than 1bbl if you just them. (906) Starting in July, we need volunteers to bring food to the meetings. Please see Matt Moss if you are interested in helping out.

5 PRIMETIME BREWERS COMPETITION PAGE 2016 Club Competition Calendar Jan Historical Beers (27) Feb Best of Cellar Cider (All) Mar Pale American Ale (18) Apr British Bitter (11) May Best of Cellar Beers (All) Jun Beer Pairing Dinner Jul American Lager (1A&1B) Aug Beer made with Michigan ingredients Sep Mead (All) Oct Double IPA (22A) Nov Imperial Stout (20C) Dec Christmas Party 2016 Brewer of the Year (To Date) Jessie Colclasure 32 Eric Fouch 20 Chad Zomerlei 20 George Lawlor 16 Matt Moss 16 Jeff Coffey 12 Jeff Carlson 12 Joe Beirling 8 Brent Zomerlei 8 Jeremy Gavin First Thursday Destinations Jan Mitten Feb Railtown Mar Osgood Apr Trail Point May Pike 51 Jun Bistro 57 Jul Perrin Aug GRBC Sep Gravel Bottom Oct Brewery Vivant Nov TBA Dec TBA SAVE THE DATE(S) July 16 Beer, Brats, and Bocce Aug 20 MI Beer Cup awards ceremony Other events at: Primetime Brewers Facebook page Club Officers President: Eric Fouch V. P.: Jeremy Gavin Treasurer: Jeff Carlson Sec & RC Editor: Chad Zomerlei (fouch.eric@gmail.com) (jabrews@gmail.com) (carlsonj@gvsu.edu) (zomerlcp@gmail.com) SUPPORT OUR SPONSORS THEY SUPPORT US!! The hard part about being a bartender is figuring out who is drunk and who is just stupid." June Beer & Food Pairing Club Competition Results: 1st Matt Moss Lemon Bars 2nd Jeff Coffe Crostini 3rd Jessie Colclasure Tiramisu Peoples Choice: Kip Hebron Ribs

6 O CONNOR S HOME BREW SUPPLY 619 Lyon St NE (616) VANDER MILL CIDER MILL & WINERY Cleveland St Spring Lake, MI (616) UNCLE JOHN S CIDER MILL 8614 North US 127 St Johns (989) BREWERY VIVANT 925 Cherry SE (616) ROCKFORD BREWING COMPANY 12 E Bridge St Rockford (616) HARMONY BREWING COMPANY 1551 Lake Drive SE (616) And HARMONY HALL 401 Stocking Ave NW (616) PERRIN BREWING COMPANY 5910 Comstock Park Dr Comstock Park (616) PIKE 51 BREWING CO Chicago Dr Hudsonville (616) MITTEN BREWING COMPANY 527 Leonard NW (616) GRAND RAPIDS BREWING CO. 1 Ionia SW (616) GRAVEL BOTTOM Craft Brewery & Supply 418 Ada Dr Ada (206) OSGOOD BREWING 4051 Chicago Dr SW Grandville (616)

7 ARCADIA ALES 103 W Michigan Battle Creek (269) & 701 E Michigan Ave Kalamazoo (269) HIDEOUT BREWING CO 3113 Plaza Dr NE (616) WHITE FLAME BREWING CO th Ave Hudsonville (616) HONEY CREEK INN 8025 Cannonsburg Rd Cannonsburg (616) B.O.B. S HOUSE OF BREWS 20 Monroe NW (616) HOPCAT 25 Ionia SW (616) And lots of other locations COTTAGE BAR & RESTAURANT 18 Lagrave SE (616) ALTEK SPORTS & SCUBA Homebrew Supplies 311 E Main Ave Zeeland (616) UNRULY BREWING CO 360 W Western Ave Muskegon (231) FOUNDERS BREWING CO 235 Grandville Ave SW (616) JADEN JAMES BREWERY 4665 Broadmoor Ave SE (616) COLDBREAK BREWING CO. 81 N Main St NE Cedar Springs (616) BREW PUB & BISTRO 1310 West Washington Greenville (616) BELL S BREWERY 355 E Kalamazoo Ave Kalamazoo (269)

8 RISHI S INTERNATIONAL BEVERAGE th St SE (616) and 6859 Cascade Rd SE RED SALAMANDER 902 E Saginaw Hwy Grand Ledge (517) MARTHA S VINEYARD 200 Union NE (616) BIER DISTILLERY 5295 West River Drive Suite 100 Comstock Park (616) MICHIGAN HOP ALLIANCE PO Box 1843 Traverse City SCHMOHZ BREWERY 2600 Patterson SE (616) NEW HOLLAND BREWING 66 E 8th St Holland (616) SICILIANO S MARKET 2840 Lake Michigan Dr (616) PAULY S Fulton East Lowell (616) GAVIN LEGAL PLLC (616) RAILTOWN BREW- ING Co th St SE Dutton (616) CELLAR BREWING COMPANY 500 E Division, Sparta (616) H & H Hobby Shop 4244 Kalamazoo SE Kentwood (616) PILOT MALT HOUSE th ST SW Byron Center (616)