The Swiss Hills Guide to Cheesemaking. by Karen Christian

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2 1 Contents The Swiss Hills Guide to Cheesemaking by Karen Christian An Introduction to Home Cheesemaking... 2 Notes on Ingredients... 3 Notes on Equipment... 8 Techniques for Home Cheesemaking Preparing Your Workspace Preparing Your Equipment Warm the Milk Culturing Ripening Addition of Calcium Chloride Coagulation Cutting the Curd Cooking and Stirring Washing the Curds Judging Doneness Milling Draining Flipping Cheese Pressing Salting Cleaning Up Aging Cheese Waxed Cheese Natural Rind Washed Rind Aging Multiple Cheeses at Once Aging on Wood Types of Cheese Fresh... 35

3 2 Blue Cheese Stretched-Curd Cheese Washed Rind Cheese Mold-Ripened Cheese Semihard and Hard Cheese Washed Curd Cheese Cheese with Eyes Brined Cheese Yogurt, Kefir, Buttermilk, and Sour Cream Cheese Recipes Yogurt Cream Cheese Feta Cashel Blue Cheese Tomme Butterkäse Triple Cream Brie Brines Sources for Supplies For Additional Information An Introduction to Home Cheesemaking Cheese is a food enjoyed the world over, and has been a staple in our diet for thousands of years. Cheese was traditionally made at home or on the farmstead, but as time has worn on, most of us have lost the knowledge and practice of making our own cheese. But thanks to a resurgence in home cheesemaking, and the widespread access to cultures, supplies, and tutorials, any person can now have the satisfaction of making cheese in their own home. What is cheese, exactly? Cheese is made through a process of culturing (or fermenting) milk sugars using beneficial bacteria, molds, and yeasts. Like most fermented products, it has a longer shelf life than its precursor (in this case, milk). There are many types of cheese: some are fresh and ready to eat within a day (like cream cheese), whereas some are aged for years (like parmesan). Some have rinds that are covered with mold (like brie), and some have rinds that are washed with bacteria (like limburger). There is enormous diversity in texture, flavor, and appearance for a category of food comprised primarily of just one common ingredient: milk.

4 3 The tutorials below constitute a beginner s guide. They will get you started on your home cheesemaking journey with tips, how-to s, and recipes to try. We strive here to give you a complete guide that will give you practical advice and information to get you well on your way to making cheese in your own home. As you progress in your cheese-making skills and interest, we at Swiss Hills Ferments hope that you will continue to read, experiment, and educate yourself about this fascinating craft. Notes on Ingredients Cheese is made primarily from milk, but there are other additions, such as bacteria, molds, coagulant, etc. that you will want to add in order to transform your milk into its highest form. The list below describes the different ingredients you may want to source to start your cheesemaking journey. Milk. The better the milk, the better the cheese. Ideally, cheese is made with fresh milk from a healthy grass-fed cow (or pastured sheep or goat) who lives on a small farm in clean conditions and has spent plenty of time outdoors in the sun. The ideal milk has been low-temp pasteurized (if pasteurized at all), and is not homogenized. That would be ideal. But not all of us have access to farm-fresh milk, and most of us cheesemakers will be buying our milk off the grocery shelf. In that case, the most important thing to look for is milk that has not been ultra-pasteurized. Milk that has been ultra-pasteurized has been heated to a very high temperature, and it will not form good cheese curd. As long as you have milk that has not been ultra-pasteurized, you can make cheese.

5 4 You will also want to look for whole milk, unless otherwise indicated by the recipe. Milk fat contributes to delicious cheese, and it will give you higher yields than skim milk. Also look for milk that has not been homogenized. Non-homogenized milk (or cream-top or cream-line milk) will coagulate better and give a higher yield. Some good places to look for quality milk may be at a co-op or natural foods store. You can also search craigslist or farmer s markets to find small producers of milk. You may find that even if you can t taste a difference in the flavor of the milk from different sources, the resulting cheese will be of a different quality. When faced with the choice between two otherwise identical sources of milk at the store, you may want to try the local brand rather than the store brand, as even that seems to make a difference in the resulting cheese flavor. Whichever milk you choose, try to find the freshest milk possible. Check the expiration dates at the store and dig around until you find the freshest milk. Then make your cheese that day (or as soon as possible). The fresher your milk, the tastier your resulting cheese will be. A note on raw milk: if you choose to use raw milk, be sure of its freshness and proper handling. As long as you are not selling your cheese, you can use raw milk in any recipe that you wish. Raw milk has flavor-forming bacteria in it that is not present in pasteurized milk, and some cheesemakers consider it sacrilege to work with anything else. Personally, I feel comfortable using quality raw milk in hard cheeses that are aged for several months, though I use pasteurized milk for the high-moisture, high-ph cheeses (such as washed rind or mold-ripened).

6 5 These are all decent salt options to use: kosher salt, sea salt, real salt, or canning salt. Salt. Salt should be free of iodine or any anti-caking agents. When you look at the ingredients on the box, all it should say is salt. If you are staring at a wall of salt options at the grocery store and don t know which one to choose, start with the kosher salt, as it is most likely to be unadulterated. You can also look for pickling salt if you are making a brine for your cheese, as it has the advantage of dissolving more quickly in cold water. Starter cultures. Starter cultures are freeze-dried, powdered bacteria that are added to the milk when making cheese. These beneficial bacteria feed on the milk sugars, producing flavor and acidity. They are used in almost all cheeses. Look for DS or direct-set cultures which do not require the creation of a mother culture. Cultures can be either mesophilic (warm-loving, between ᵒF/21-46ᵒC) or thermophilic (heat-loving, above 115ᵒF/46ᵒC) bacteria. Whichever culture you choose will help determine what temperature you heat your milk to. Some cultures will produce flavor faster than others and are more suitable for fresh cheeses. Others will not fully break down all of the milk sugars, leaving fuel for bacteria during the aging process. Your vendor of starter cultures should have a description for each culture, describing the types of cheese that are best made with each one. These are the three cheese cultures recommended for use in recipes in this tutorial: Flora Danica, a mesophilic culture, is appropriate for fresh cheeses, and those not aged for very long MA 4000 is a mesophilic culture, also known as the farmstead culture, which is quite versatile and can be used for many types of aged cheeses. It may be labeled as either MA 4001 or MA Thermo C is a thermophilic culture used for Italian and farmstead cheeses. The most economical way to buy starter cultures is to buy in a large multi-dose pack and then divide for single use at home. Be aware, however, that the more times you open the container of starter culture, the more likely you are to introduce moisture or bacteria into the culture. When using raw milk for cheese, you use about half the recommended amount of starter culture as called for in a recipe. Raw milk has beneficial bacteria already present in the milk that will aid in making cheese. Coagulant. A coagulant is added to your milk to help it turn from a liquid (milk) to a solid (cheese curd). But the coagulant does even more than that, as it also helps to develop flavor, aromas, and texture during aging. There are several different types of coagulants available, and they are described below: Calf rennet is the traditional coagulant used during cheesemaking. You can buy rennet in the form of a tablet, powder, or liquid. We recommend liquid rennet, as it is easiest to measure and gives the most reliable results. Liquid rennet should be stored in the

7 6 refrigerator for up to a year. All of the recipes in this tutorial are written for calf rennet (though they can easily be adapted for other types). Microbial rennet is a good vegetarian option. It may produce a bitter taste in some longaged cheeses, but it otherwise behaves similarly to animal rennet. It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to six months. Microbial rennet is often double strength (look on your packaging to confirm) and therefore requires half the volume of traditional calf rennet. It may be labeled as vegetable rennet, but look for the words microbial or Mucor miehei (the microbe that is fermented) in the ingredient list to confirm that it is microbial. Fermented chymosin is a second vegetarian option. Genetically modified microbes are used to produce the coagulant, though it is not required to be labeled as genetically modified. It is used in a large portion of commercially produced cheeses. Lemon juice, vinegar, or citric acid are all acids that can be used to coagulate milk. There are several delicious cheese recipes that use acid as a coagulant, but be sure not to substitute one of these for rennet if the recipe does not call for it. Some common cheesemaking ingredients. Clockwise from top left: calcium chloride, vegetable rennet, annatto coloring, MA4002 mesophilic culture, and Flora Danica mesophilic culture.

8 7 Calcium chloride. Calcium plays an important role in cheese-making, though pasteurization and homogenization disturb the calcium balance in milk. Calcium chloride is sold in a liquid solution, and should be added to any store-bought milk or goat s milk made into cheese. It is added just before the rennet is added to the cheese milk. The added calcium ions help to create a firmer curd, reduce coagulation time, and increase the final yield. Cheeses with lower calcium content will have a crumbly texture. De-chlorinated water. You will want to use de-chlorinated water when diluting rennet or calcium chloride. Chlorine is often added to municipal water sources, so you will need to consider this if using tap water. You can buy distilled water from the grocery store for this purpose. Alternatively, you can boil your water for 20 minutes and then cool, or if you are thinking ahead, set your water out overnight at room temperature. The chlorine gas will dissipate within about 12 hours. Some water filters will also filter out chlorine. Ripening cultures. Ripening cultures are different from starter cultures. They include bacteria as well as molds and yeasts. Here are some of the more common ripening cultures: Penicillium candidum is a white and fuzzy mold added to brie. Penicillium roquefortii is a blue mold used in many bleu cheeses. Propionic bacteria are responsible for the holes in Swiss cheeses. Ripening bacteria (Brevibacterium linens) are used to make washed-rind cheeses, such as limburger. Geotrichum candidum forms a textured brain-like pattern on the surface of the cheeses. Annatto. It may be hard for some to believe, but cheese is not naturally orange. The orange cheddar you see at the store has been colored using a natural dye called annatto. If you wish, annatto can be added to any recipe to give your cheese that familiar color. Herbs. When adding herbs to aged cheeses, you must be especially careful with the spices that you add. Make sure you are using spices free of pesticides and insects. For extra precaution, you may choose to boil your herbs in water for 10 minutes, adding both the herbs and cooled liquid to your cheese for flavor. Home cheesemaking kits. There are several different home cheesemaking kits available. Most of these contain essentials such as cheese molds, cheesecloth, rennet tablets, calcium chloride, and recipes. Buying a kit can save you money, but only if you like what s inside. If you plan to make a lot of cheese, think about the type of cheese molds and type of rennet you would like and if the kit supplies you with what you would need.

9 8 Notes on Equipment Depending on the type of cheese you choose to make, you may find that you will need additional cheese-making equipment. The list below will be your guide for sourcing the proper equipment. Pots. Home cheeses are often made in batches using 1, 2 or 4 gallons of milk. You will want to find pots that can accommodate this volume of liquid, while still leaving about 2 inches of space at the top (consider using pots with a volume of 1½, 3, and 5 gallons). Look for high-quality stainless steel pots to heat your milk in. Make sure the surface is free of any deep scratches that may harbor bacteria. You may find that the easiest way to heat your cheese is not directly on the burner, but in a hot water bath, particularly with the larger volumes of milk. For this reason, you may wish to purchase an even larger pot that can be used as a water bath. We have found that either an aluminum tamale pot or an enameled canning pot works well for this purpose. A 32-quart pot is large enough to use as a water bath for 4 gallons of milk. If you plan to wax your cheese, you will need a dedicated pot used just for waxing. Look for a pot with a capacity large enough to fit the entire cheese you wish to wax.

10 9 Two pots nested inside each other allow for use of a water bath and even heating of four gallons of milk. Measuring Spoons. The best way to measure cheese culture and mold powders is by weight, but if you do not have a scale that can measure to the hundredth of a gram, you will need spoons that are small enough to measure the quantity of culture that you need. Look for measuring spoons that get as small as 1/8 tsp or even 1/16 tsp. Syringe. You can measure your liquid calcium chloride and rennet with measuring spoons, but you will get a more accurate result with a liquid syringe. Look for one that can measure as small a volume as ¼ tsp. Dairy Thermometer. A good thermometer is essential to the home cheesemaker. You can use either a digital or analog thermometer. Look for one that comes with a clip to attach to the side

11 10 of your pot. Digital thermometers that have temperature alarms are especially helpful. Ideally, look for a thermometer that can be calibrated. Skimmer. This is a stainless steel utensil with small holes perforating the spoon. Look for one with a long handle, so that it can reach to the bottom of your cheese pot. Long Knife. This is used to cut the curd. You will want a utensil that can reach the bottom of the pot. A long knife will work, as will a cake-decorating knife. Cheesemaker supply stores also sell a version specific to making cheese. Draining Cloth. Cheesecloth and butter muslin are both used to drain the curds from the whey. Butter muslin has a tight weave and is best for draining moist and soft cheeses, as it will keep even the smallest curd particles from escaping. Cheesecloth has a looser weave and is better for lining hard or pressed cheeses in their molds. Butter muslin is used to line a colander and drain fresh ricotta. These cloths should be purchased from a cheesemaking supply store (the grocery-store aisle cheesecloth is not as durable and has too open of a weave). They can be washed and reused. Draining bags can be used for draining fresh cheeses. Alternatively, you can use a clean pillowcase. Colander. A colander is used to drain fresh cheeses as well as some hard cheeses before they are placed in their molds.

12 11 Cheese Molds (Forms). There are almost infinite molds that can be used to help drain and shape your cheeses. To start out with, we recommend a large tomme mold (7 ½-inch in diameter) with a follower, which is useful for any pressed cheese you wish to make. Most semihard to hard cheeses that use this mold will call for 4 gallons of milk. For the blue cheese or mold-ripened cheese recipes in this tutorial, we recommend a smaller mold such as a Camembert mold, with a diameter of 4 ¼ inches (each camembert mold will hold cheese made from slightly less than 1 gallon of milk). A cheese draining setup with colander on left and large tomme mold on right set over a cooling rack and draining container. Draining Container. A draining container is a food-grade bin in which to drain your cheeses. It should be large enough to fit a cooling rack either on top of or inside. You may wish to look for a version large enough to enclose your draining cheese and that can be covered with a lid (to ward off flies and such). We don't recommend draining into a kitchen sink, because the surface of the sink tends to be less sanitary and harder to sanitize. Cooling Rack. A cooling rack is the type of stainless steel rack you use to cool your cookies. It is placed in the draining container so that the cheese mold is elevated from the bottom of the container during draining. This way, the cheese is not sitting in the whey that is being expelled. Cutting Board. A cutting board (either wood or plastic) can be placed on top of the drying rack inside the draining container. This is especially important when draining a cheese that does not have a bottom (such as the camembert mold).

13 12 Cheese Matting. We recommend plastic cheese matting, as it is most easily sanitized. The cheese matting is placed on top of the cutting board inside the draining container during draining. This elevates the cheese mold just slightly from the cutting board to allow for better whey drainage. This cheese draining setup uses camembert molds which are bottomless (and can therefore be flipped without removing the cheese from the molds). Pictured you will see (from top to bottom) a cutting board, cheese matting, camembert molds, cheese matting, a cooling rack, and a draining container. Cheese Press. For some cheeses, you will need to weigh the cheese down in order to press out as much liquid as possible. The easiest way to do this is with a cheese press. There are several types available for the home cheesemaker. Quality and expense will vary, so be sure to read reviews and to look for a press made out of quality materials. The description of the press should be able to tell you how much weight each press can deliver. A cylindrical spring-loaded cheese press that is tightened down using a screw to add weight. A lever-type system (a Dutch-style press). If you want to give hard cheeses a try without investing in a cheese press, you can create a makeshift setup by adding weights from household items to the top of the cheese mold. We have had surprising success with piling weightlifting plates on top of our cheese. As a beginner cheesemaker, we actually suggest starting out without a cheese press, as it is not essential for

14 13 most cheeses. All of the recipes in this tutorial can be made with relatively light-weight pressing from household items. Fermentation Chamber. Proper cheesemaking requires careful observance of temperature and humidity requirements. Unfortunately, a home refrigerator will not age your cheeses at the ideal temperature, nor will ambient room temperature be appropriate. To achieve desired temperature, humidity, and airflow conditions, we recommend aging your cheeses in The Cave fermentation chamber. The Cave is designed for use during aging of cheeses, but it can also be used in any step of the process when the temperature needs to be held constant (for example, during draining, or while holding the curd at a given temperature for many hours). You can find more information about the Cave at Cheese Ripening Paper. Some recipes for mold-ripened cheeses will call for cheese ripening paper. This is a special paper used by cheesemakers that will allow the exchange of gases while protecting the cheese from drying out. Cheese Wax. Cheese wax is a type of wax used to coat cheeses and protect them while aging. It is useful for semihard and hard cheeses. It is advisable to use cheese wax when you are unable to maintain the proper humidity levels for the cheese you are aging. This is not a problem in The Cave, except if you are aging multiple cheeses with different humidity requirements. Be sure to buy wax that is specific for cheese makers (not paraffin). You may use any color cheese wax that you like: yellow, red, or black. We have found that with the pale yellow cheese wax, it is sometimes easy to miss cracks in the wax as it blends in with the cheese underneath it. For this reason, we prefer to use red or black wax. Vacuum Sealer. Instead of using cheese wax, you can also vacuum seal your cheeses for moldfree aging. Milkstone Remover. This is an optional ingredient, and is used only when needed. After regular use, milk may start to deposit calcium on your equipment. This leaves a whitish residue called milkstone. After sanitizing, you may do an optional acid wash to remove any milkstone that may have built up. Look for milkstone remover at your cheesemaking store. Add 1 tsp of the acid solution to 1 gallon of water and soak your equipment for 10 minutes in this solution. Sanitizing Equipment. Keeping your equipment clean and sanitized cannot be stressed enough. You will need to sanitize all of your cheesemaking equipment prior to each batch of aged cheese that you make. Steps for sanitizing are explained in the technique section, but your options for sanitizing include heat, bleach, or a commercially available sanitizer (such as Star San or Saniclean). Home Cheesemaking Kits. There are several different home cheesemaking kits available. Most of these contain essentials such as cheese molds, cheesecloth, rennet tablets, calcium chloride, and recipes. Buying a kit can save you money, but only if you like what s inside. If you plan to make a lot of cheese, think about the type of cheese mold and type of rennet you would like and if the kit supplies you with what you would need.

15 14 Techniques for Home Cheesemaking In this section, you will learn that the magic of cheesemaking is not so much in the ingredient list, as it is in the techniques that you will learn to master. Almost all cheeses contain the same five ingredients (with some exceptions): milk, culture, salt, coagulant, and calcium chloride. Yet the magic of cheese is that these ingredients can be transformed into infinite possibilities. Here, we will bring you the basic techniques and a little bit of science behind what is going on in the cheesemaking process. You will learn the common steps to making uncommonly good cheese. Preparing Your Workspace There are several things to keep in mind when preparing your kitchen for cheesemaking. Foremost, is cleanliness. Cheesemaking is a war of bacteria: good versus bad. The good bacteria generate flavor, aroma, and texture, but the bad bacteria can negatively impact these factors as well. Some bacteria can even pose a danger to your health. It is a good idea to be mindful of cleanliness at every step of the cheesemaking process. You will want to start with a clean kitchen. Wash down your countertops, sweep and wash the floors, and close the windows. Save your bread-baking, sauerkraut-making, and other fermenting for another day (or another part of the house): you don t want to introduce any yeasts, bacteria, or molds into your milk that could affect flavor. Wash your hands well and put your hair up. You don t want to be a source of contamination either! Banish your dogs and cats to another part of the house.

16 15 You ll want to give cheesemaking your full attention; however, if you re like me, you may also have a drive to multitask in the kitchen. Be especially mindful, if you are working on more than one project at a time, to set timers to remind yourself to attend to your cheesemaking. Preparing Your Equipment After your space is prepared, you will need to prepare your equipment as well. Anything that touches your cheese will need to be cleaned and sanitized. This includes your pots, thermometer, ladle, measuring cups, colander, cheesecloth, cheese mold, etc. Be sure to read your recipe thoroughly and note all equipment that will need to be cleaned and sanitized. Make sure your equipment is clean before you sanitize it. If your equipment is not yet clean, simply wash with unscented soap and water, and allow to air dry. You may hand wash or machine wash, depending on your preference. Sanitizing your equipment will help ensure a tasty final product. Next, you will need to sanitize your equipment. Do this immediately before cheesemaking (not, for example, the day beforehand). There are several options: Heat will sanitize. Heat-proof equipment can be placed in a 250ᵒF/120ᵒC oven for 20 minutes. Alternatively, equipment can be immersed in boiling water for 5 minutes or run through a sanitizing dish wash cycle. This method uses no chemicals, though at the same time, it requires time, and it requires your equipment to be heat-proof as well.

17 16 Bleach is also a sanitizer. Add 1 tsp bleach per gallon of water and use this to rinse your equipment. Allow to air dry. This is a faster method, though it requires the use of chemicals. If too much bleach is used, it may affect the flavor of your cheese. Commercially available sanitizer (often used by beer- and wine-makers) is a third option (look for brands such as Star San, or Saniclean). To use, dilute 1 Tbsp sanitizer in 1 gallon of water and use this to rinse your equipment (or prepare according to package directions). It should have a contact time of between 30 seconds to 2 minutes (consult the instructions for recommended minimum contact time). It does not need to be washed off. These products may foam, but the foam won t affect the flavor. This is a fast and less toxic alternative to using bleach, although you may need to visit a specialty store to find this type of sanitizer. There is one last step you may need to consider when preparing your equipment. After regular use, milk may start to deposit calcium on your equipment. This leaves a whitish residue called milkstone. After sanitizing, you may do an optional acid wash to remove any milkstone that may have built up. Look for milkstone remover at your cheesemaking store. Add 1 tsp of the acid solution to 1 gallon of water and soak your equipment for 10 minutes in this solution. Once your equipment has been cleaned and sanitized, you may place it on a clean towel on the counter to await use (or keep it in the sanitizing bucket until you are ready to use if you are using a sanitizer like Star San or an equivalent). Warm the Milk In this step, you will need to bring your milk to the ideal temperature for your starter culture. Different types of starter cultures (for example, mesophilic vs. thermophilic) have different temperature requirements. You will want to warm your milk gently and slowly to the ideal temperature. If you are making a small batch (one gallon or less), you may heat your milk directly on the burner at a medium-low setting. Be sure to stir the milk as it heats, as you will want to minimize uneven heat distribution (more on stirring in a bit). A second option is to use a hot water bath. You can use this method for any cheese, but it is especially advisable for larger batches of cheesemaking (over four gallons). To use, insert a smaller pot inside a larger pot, and fill the outer pot with water (using the inner pot helps to correctly determine the amount of water to add to the water bath). Next, remove the inner pot, and heat the water in the larger pot until it is about ten degrees warmer than your target culturing temperature. Now you can turn off the burner, place your milk in the hot water bath, and wait for the milk to warm up. You will want to gently stir the milk periodically to distribute the heat. A note on stirring: the best utensil for stirring is a perforated skimmer. Draw the skimmer up and down gently without breaking the surface of the milk. This will keep air from becoming incorporated into the milk, and will gently redistribute the milk particles. You don t want to stir your cheese as you would a normal pot of soup: vigorously in a circular motion. Treat your milk gently.

18 17 A two-pot system for gently heating your milk in a water bath. Culturing Once your milk has reached its target temperature, you will sprinkle your direct set starter culture over the top of the surface of the milk. Your recipe will then call for you to wait a few minutes before you do anything. This allows the culture time to rehydrate, absorb liquid, and will keep it from clumping up. Once you are ready to stir the culture, you will again do so with a gentle up-and-down motion of the skimmer. This will draw the culture into your milk and distribute it evenly. A note on using cream-top milk: if cream from your non-homogenized milk has not yet melted before adding your starter culture, you will want to do your best to avoid sprinkling the starter culture on top of the cream. The culture can get trapped in the cream and have difficulties rehydrating.

19 18 Blue mold powder (penicillium roqueforti) is sprinkled on top of the milk and allowed to re-hydrate. Ripening Next, your milk will be given time to ripen. During this time, the milk cultures will start to feed on sugars in the milk (lactose), creating lactic acid as a by-product. The cultures will multiply (as bacteria tend to do in a warm environment), populating the milk, and increasing its acidity. The best way to measure the progress of the milk cultures is to measure its change in ph (since acidity is increasing, your ph should decrease). Ripening may take a few minutes, or it may take several hours. The length of time depends on the type of cheese you are making. During the ripening phase, you will want to maintain the ideal culturing temperature. If you are ripening for a shorter amount of time, you can simply cover your pot, and keep it in the warm water bath. For a longer ripening time, you may want to insulate your pot or water bath somehow; either by wrapping towels around the setup, or by transferring your water bath to an insulated cooler. If you have space in the Cave, you may also transfer your milk here for consistent ripening conditions.

20 19 Addition of Calcium Chloride Milk that has been covered and allowed to ripen. If you are using store-bought milk, goat s milk, or if your recipe calls for it, you will want to add calcium chloride next. The calcium in this solution will aid in coagulation and increase your final yield. You always want to add calcium chloride before you add rennet. First, dilute the calcium chloride in de-chlorinated water. Then add to your milk and stir thoroughly. If you are adding other extras to your cheese, such as lipase or annatto, you will also do it now, before the coagulant is added. In most cases, you do not need to add calcium chloride if you are using raw cow s milk. Coagulation Next, a coagulant will be added (for example, rennet). Just like calcium chloride, it is first diluted in cool, de-chlorinated water, then added to the pot, and thoroughly stirred. Make sure to dilute the rennet just prior to adding it to the milk. Once diluted, it destabilizes quickly, so you will want to add it right away. Rennet should be stirred for about five minutes. Remember to stir up and down, rather than in a circular motion. Stir continuously and keep the milk moving for those five minutes; once you are done stirring the rennet, the milk should be quieted immediately and left undisturbed for best curd development. The length of time for curd development will vary depending on the recipe. It is dependent on

21 20 several factors, including temperature, ph, amount of calcium in the milk, as well as desired cheese characteristics. During curd development, the milk will coagulate. It will continue to ripen as well, by breaking down milk sugars and creating lactic acid. Cutting the Curd Once coagulation is complete, you will (in most cases) need to cut the curd. But first, how can you be sure that your curd is ready to be cut? The most common way to determine readiness is to check for a clean break. To do this, dip a knife straight down into the curd and then remove it. Next, insert the blade of the knife at a 30 degree angle to the surface of the curd. Slowly lift the blade, and carefully watch the surface of the curd, particularly at the opening of the slit. If you have a clean break, the curd will split into a long clean crack. The sides of the slit will be smooth. The whey will be more yellow/green than white. This means that your curd is ready to be cut. If the curd is wobbly, uneven, or if the slit appears jagged, then the curd needs more time to develop. You may want a softer curd if you will be cutting the mass into smaller pieces, and a firmer curd if you will be cutting the mass into larger pieces. To check for a clean break: lift the curd at a 30 degree angle to the milk and observe the split to see if you have achieved a clean break. Once you have determined that it is time to cut the curd, use a long knife to cut it into strips. Hold the knife vertically, and draw it evenly through the curd. Then turn the pot 90 degrees and cut through the curd to create columns. Finally, take your skimmer and cut the curd horizontally to create cubes. Try to be as consistent as possible. Once you are done, if you notice any cubes that are abnormally large, you may cut them with a knife. Cutting the coagulated milk increases the surface area of the curd, allowing whey to be drained. You want consistent sizes of curd so that whey will drain evenly. The size of curd is determined by several factors. At lower temperatures, curd will take longer to drain, and such

22 21 recipes will generally call for larger curd sizes. At higher temperatures, the curd may be cut into smaller cubes. Use the skimmer to cut the cubes horizontally and create cubes. Try to keep the sizes of curd uniform! Cooking and Stirring Some recipes call for cooking the curd. This involves heating the curd gradually and stirring continuously until the target temperature is reached. Heating the curd is ultimately about generating the proper curd texture. This is accomplished by increasing the acidity and expelling whey, thereby reaching the proper moisture level for the cheese. As you add heat, the curd will reduce in size and become more firm. In general, the higher the temperature the curd is cooked, the more whey will be expelled, and the harder the resulting cheese will be. The curd must be heated very gradually. Ideally, you should evenly increase the temperature of your curd across the target time frame. For example, if the recipe calls for you to increase the temperature from 90ᵒF to 100ᵒF (32ᵒ to 38ᵒC) in 50 minutes, you should aim to increase the temperature of your curd by 1ᵒF every five minutes (1ᵒC every eight minutes). If the curd is heated too quickly, it will affect the activity of your starter culture as well as acid production. To heat your curd, return your pot (or double boiler setup) to the stove and turn to low heat. Carefully watch the thermometer to gauge the best temperature setting on your stove. While the curd is being cooked, you should also maintain gentle stirring. Stir just enough so that the curds do not become matted together. The slower you stir, the moister your curds will be.

23 22 Washing the Curds These curds have been pitched and the whey ladled off in preparation for washing. Because the curds have been allowed to settle, you may notice that they are slightly matted together. Some recipes call for the curds to be washed. In these recipes, some of the whey is removed (up to 50%), and a portion of water is added back to the pot to replace the missing whey. This process removes some of the milk sugars from the pot, which in turn affects the growth of the starter cultures (lactose is fuel for the bacteria). This ultimately affects the texture of the finished cheese. Washed curd cheeses tend to be more moist and tender. Make sure that your wash water has been sterilized by boiling it for five minutes before bringing it to the desired temperature. If a recipe calls for the curds to be pitched, this means that you will stop stirring and allow the curds to settle to the bottom of your pot. This allows you to ladle off the whey more easily and then replace it with water for washing. This step also often occurs just before draining. Judging Doneness You will know that the curds are done being washed (or cooked) and ready for the next step by checking their texture. When torn apart, the curds should have even texture and easily break apart. They should also be pliable. Feel them in your hand, squish them between your fingers, and get a sense for what their consistency is. With time, you will be able to tell what the proper texture looks and feels like.

24 23 Get used to feeling your curd to judge for doneness. It will take some practice before you can recognize what the curd feels like as it reaches doneness. Milling After the curd has been washed or cooked, some cheese recipes call for milling, which is simply cutting the curd into smaller pieces or strips. This prepares the cheese for salting by providing the proper surface area to volume ratio. Draining The next step is to separate the whey from the curds. You will want to set up a draining container for most cheeses, which consists of a food-grade container, upon which a cooling rack, optional cutting board, and cheese matting are placed. Of course, make sure each item is clean and sanitized before use. Your cheese mold will be placed on top of the cheese matting, which elevates the mold slightly and allows for proper drainage. If you are using a cheese mold, it is usually lined with cheesecloth or butter muslin prior to use. Be sure to wet your cheesecloth with warm whey prior to draining. This puts the cheesecloth at the same temperature and ph as the cheese that will be draining through it. For fresh cheeses, you may ladle the curds and whey directly into a draining bag or use butter muslin gathered together and knotted to make a bag. For other cheeses, you may try to do some separation of curds and whey prior to draining in the cheese mold. If your curds have been

25 24 pitched, you may first ladle off the whey from the top of the pot using a ladle or a bowl (this process is called whey off). When adding curds to the cheese mold, you can use your skimmer to transfer primarily curds to the mold, leaving most of the whey behind. From bottom to top: draining container, cooling rack, large tomme mold, cheesecloth, draining cheese curds, follower, and weight on the very top (for pressing). Aim to finish transferring the curd to the cheese molds in a relatively short amount of time (about a half hour or so). If you let the process go on for too long, the curds first placed in the mold will have different properties than the curds last placed in the mold. Cheese will usually drain in molds for several hours. During this time, you will flip the cheese periodically to allow for even draining. Keep the room relatively warm (about 70-75ᵒF/21-24ᵒC) for best drainage and ph development. If the temperature is too cold, the curd will not knit well together.

26 25 Flipping Cheese These open-ended Camembert molds are ready to be inverted. They have no bottom on either end, so the cheese does not have to be removed from the mold in order to be flipped. If your cheese is being drained in a mold that is open at both sides (for example, a Camembert mold), you will place a second piece of sanitized cheese matting and cutting board on the top end of the mold, and flip everything together. Continue to let it drain in this way until you are ready to flip it again. If your cheese is draining in a Tomme-style mold, which has a bottom to it, you will need to remove the cheese from the mold and invert it before replacing it back inside. Be sure to do so with clean hands.

27 26 On the left: curds that have just been ladled into their molds. On the right: after draining and flipping, the curds have knit together. Pressing Pressed cheeses are weighted in order to change the shape and moisture level of the resulting cheese. If your cheese will be pressed, you will want to use a cheese mold that will accommodate pressing (such as a Tomme mold) or use the mold that comes with your cheese press. For cheeses that are lightly pressed, you may weigh the cheese down with a heavy household object: a bucket of water, a cast iron pan, or even use a weightlifting plate. Just make sure that the object is securely positioned so that as the cheese drains (and changes height), it will not shift and fall off. For cheeses that require heavier pressing, you may want to invest in a cheese press. Make sure that your cheese mold is lined with cheesecloth dipped in whey, and a pan is placed underneath in order to collect the expelled whey. Pressing allows the curd to be knit back together. You will want to observe the progression of the curd during pressing, and if the curd is not being knit back together successfully (see above picture for example of draining curds), you may choose to increase the pressure on the cheese. On the other hand, if you are pressing at too high a pressure, the whey being expelled will become cloudy white, from the butterfat leaking out. At too high a pressure, the curd will also begin to be squeezed out of the mold through the draining holes. Most recipes suggest starting at a lower pressure, and later increasing to a higher pressure. You can assess the progression of the cheese during the times that you periodically flip it. To flip the cheese, remove it from its cheese mold, invert it, place it back in the cheese press, and redress the

28 27 cheesecloth. A small weight lifting plate fits easily on the tomme cheese mold and helps to press the cheese. Recipes sometimes give poundage for pressing in the unit of PSI (pounds per square inch). This is the recommended amount of weight pressing on each square inch of cheese. There is an important distinction here! The difference between pressing at 10 pounds and pressing at 10 PSI is enormous! For a large Tomme mold with a diameter of 7.5 inches and an area of 44 inches squared, 10 PSI would require a total of 440 pounds pressing down on the cheese! So be sure to check with your instructions and be clear on what the pressing requirements are. Most beginner cheesemaking recipes that I have found do not call for pressing in PSI, but instead will give you a total poundage recommendation. I write this here, because as a beginner cheesemaker I had some confusion during my first hard cheese, and was trying to pile on 300 pounds of weights onto my cheese, when probably 10 would have done the trick. Really the only practical advice that I can give you relating to PSI is that if you have a cheese mold with a smaller diameter than the recipe calls for, you will need less poundage in your cheese press. If your diameter is larger, you will need a greater amount of weight. The weights given in the recipe section of this ebook are for the poundage required when using a large Tomme mold (7 ½-inches in diameter). If you choose to use a different mold, you may need to adjust the weight slightly.

29 28 Salting Salt is important for flavor, but it also plays a vital safety function as well. Most strains of bacteria are sensitive to salt levels, and their growth is halted with the addition of salt. Cheese is either dry salted, or brine salted. Fresh cheeses are dry salted after draining and then mixed in by hand. Aged dry salted cheeses may be salted after draining and then given time to mellow (time for the salt to be dissolved and absorbed by the cheese). You can achieve the most accurate dry salting by weighing the cheese to be salted and then weighing the appropriate amount of salt as a given percentage of the curd mass. Cheeses can also be brined by creating a salt water solution in which to submerge the cheese. The brine is made of water (or sometimes whey), salt, calcium chloride, and vinegar. Salt proportions will vary based on the type of cheese that is being made, but as a general rule, add 1 Tbsp (15 ml) calcium chloride and 1 tsp (5 ml) vinegar to each gallon of brine (see the recipe section for more information on brine proportions). Feta cheese in a brine solution. Cheeses that are brined should be turned regularly so that each side spends an equal amount of time submerged in the salt water. Brine temperatures range based on the type of cheese being made, but are generally kept at about 45-60ᵒF (7-16ᵒC). Warmer temperatures allow the salt to be

30 29 taken up more quickly, although warmer temperatures may also cause fat to escape from the cheese. Brines at 18% or higher salt content can be reused, as long as they are taken care of. Store below 55ᵒF/13ᵒC when not being used, and filter out any cheese particles after brining. You will need to add additional salt after frequent use, as some will be taken up by the cheese. You can do so by sprinkling a generous amount of salt on top of each new cheese you add to the brine. If you have been using the brine for several months, you may wish to pasteurize it (hold at 160ᵒF/71ᵒC for 30 minutes, then chill). There will eventually be an expiration date on your brine, so use common sense. If it starts to look funky or smell off, you should throw it out. Even though this heavy brine has a layer of mold on top, it can still be skimmed off and pasteurized and re-used safely. Cleaning Up Rinse your equipment in cold water first, and then wash in hot, soapy water. After a long day of cheesemaking it can be tempting to leave it all for the next day, but you will have an easier time cleaning your equipment before residue has a chance to dry. Cheesecloth can be washed in the clothes washer, after being rinsed in cold water first.

31 30 Aging Cheese During aging (or ripening), cheeses are held at cool temperatures and high humidity (this process is called affinage). During this stage the bacteria, molds, and yeasts work their magic to create exceptional flavor and texture. Most cheeses call for aging temperatures of approximately 50-55ᵒF (10-13ᵒC), and a relative humidity level of about 85%. The exact specifications are dependent on the type of cheese being made. Temperatures may be as high as 65ᵒF/18ᵒC (for Swiss-type cheeses) or as low as 38ᵒF/3ᵒC (for mold-ripened cheeses). The Cave from Swiss Hills Ferments can provide perfect conditions for aging any cheese. Temperature, humidity, and airflow are easily controlled to give you a consistent environment for your aging cheese. Most cheeses need a small amount of air flow and air exchange. If you are checking on your cheeses daily (to turn them, monitor the progression of the rind, check for mold growth, etc.), then you may be introducing adequate airflow simply by opening the door to the Cave. Additional airflow can also be achieved through use of the internal fan. As the cheeses age, you will want to flip them regularly in order to distribute moisture evenly (every day at the beginning of aging, then gradually less frequently, depending on the recipe). Always use clean hands when handling your aging cheeses. Every encounter with your cheese is a chance to transfer bad bacteria to it, so be careful and take precaution. Each cheese will have different aging characteristics. Some will be mold-ripened (such as brie), and develop a fuzzy white mold on the outside of the cheese. Yet with other cheeses, you may wish to maintain a pristine, mold-free rind. You will care for your cheeses differently, depending on your desired outcome. These are a few of the ways you may wish to care for your

32 31 cheese rind: waxed cheese, natural rind, or washed rind. The following sections will discuss these aging options in more detail. Waxed Cheese If you want a cheese that is essentially without a rind, you can seal it from the air by using foodgrade wax or by vacuum sealing it. Either method would be a good idea if you cannot guarantee proper humidity levels (which shouldn t be a problem in The Cave, unless you are aging more than one cheese with different humidity requirements). First, allow the cheese to dry at room temperature for several days before you seal the cheese, as you do not want to trap any moisture inside. During the drying period, be attentive to any mold that pops up on your cheese. Wipe it off with a piece of clean cheesecloth dipped in brine (1 Tbsp salt and 1 Tbsp vinegar to 1 C of water), and allow the cheese to dry. A waxed Wensleydale cheese that was aged for over a year without showing any signs of mold underneath the wax. When using food-grade wax, heat it in a pot reserved solely for cheese waxing. You have two options for how to do this, depending on the wax temperature: (1) Allow your cheese to come to room temperature. Heat the wax until it is melted (about 120ᵒF/49ᵒC). Dip half of the cheese into the wax (so that you aren t waxing your fingers) and allow it to dry. Continue dipping until each surface is coated in wax. Then repeat until you have

33 32 coated the cheese two or three times. This is a safe method of wax application, but you run the risk that mold may still develop underneath the wax, due to the low temperature of the melted wax. If mold does grow, and it is extensive, you will need to remove the wax, clean the cheese with a brine solution, dry, and reapply the wax. Or you can... (2) Cool your cheese until it reaches refrigerator temperatures. Heat the cheese wax until it is 225ᵒF/107ᵒC. Be very careful, as this high temperature wax can scald skin (and be sure not to inhale the fumes). Dip the each side of the cheese into the wax for at least 6 seconds, and then allow to dry. Continue dipping until each side is coated in wax. Then repeat until you have coated the cheese two or three times. The higher wax temperature will kill mold spores on your cheese, insuring a mold-free rind. You can use any color wax (yellow, red, or black) that you like, as long as it is specifically labeled as cheese wax. Some sources suggest using a natural-bristle brush to apply the wax instead of dipping the cheese. We do not recommend this, as we have found it to be a messier, less effective, and more time-consuming method of applying the wax. Natural Rind Cashel blue cheese before and after being brushed. The fact that we buy blocks of cheese from the grocery store that are pristine, rind-less, and mold-free, may make one hesitant to attempt a natural rind. But the truth is that cheese naturally invites mold. Instead of trying to eliminate it entirely, we can attempt to manage it,

34 33 instead. Here are three methods to do this. The first is to brush your rind, the second is to oil the rind, and the third is to bandage the rind. If you will be brushing your rind, you will need to do so approximately once per week (brushing more frequently during the start of aging, and less frequently as time goes on). First, clean, sanitize, and dry your natural bristle brush. When mold first appears on the cheese, brush it gently over the sink in order to brush away some of the mold and mold spores. Your cheese won t be pristine, but the mold will be more under control. Oiling a cheese inhibits mold growth. If you choose to oil a cheese rind, you will do so first after the rind has dried a bit (after about a week). Prior to oiling the cheese, you should brush any mold that has developed. Then, spread olive oil across the surface of the cheese. Then continue to oil as needed, as the rind begins to dry out, or after brushing. This Tomme cheese has been oiled and brushed to maintain its rind. A cheese can be bandaged if it will be aged more than six months, and you want to give it some extra protection against mold growth. After the cheese has been pressed, apply cheesecloth dipped in melted butter to the top and bottom of the cheese wheel (cut and sized to fit the surface). Then apply the side piece (again, cut and sized to fit the surface and then dipped in butter). Return to the cheese press and press for another 12 hours. Your cheese may then be aged. You may brush mold off with a brush periodically as needed.

35 34 Washed Rind You may also wash the rind with a variety of solutions. Typically, a washed rind cheese is wiped with a solution of bacteria to help develop a red rind and a softened, odiferous interior. The bacteria used for this application is Brevibacterium Linens. You can, however, wash the rind of your cheese with a brine solution (about 3-6 percent brine) or alcohol solution (usually at half strength, with a touch of salt added). Apply the wash to the rind every couple of days by wiping a sanitized cloth dipped in solution. Do this for the duration of the aging process. A brine solution will help to minimize mold growth on the rind. If you have very humid conditions, a cheese may start to exhibit washed rind characteristics spontaneously. This cheese has a reddish exterior: an indication of a washed-rind (or stinky) cheese. Aging Multiple Cheeses at Once When you age only one type of cheese at a time in your aging chamber, you don t have to worry about cross-contamination of different microflora, or of different aging conditions. But most of us are going to want to try out different types of cheeses, especially since aging can take many months. And for the most part, it is certainly possible to do so, particularly since most hard cheeses age under similar conditions. If different humidity requirements are present for each cheese, you may consider placing the cheese with a higher humidity requirement inside a covered food-grade box (you may use your draining box, as long as it has a lid and is big enough). Be sure to measure the humidity with a hygrometer in order to insure it is at the proper humidity levels. Another option is to wax some of your cheeses, as this will protect it against

36 35 imperfect humidity levels. If different temperature requirements are close enough in proximity, or short enough in duration, you may be able to meet somewhere in the middle to age two different types of cheese at once. Please note that the Penicillium Roquefortii mold that is used in blue cheese is particularly virulent. It will try to take over your aging chamber and turn every cheese into a blue cheese. If you choose to make blue cheese, do so when there are no other types of cheeses present in the Cave. Following your cheesemaking, be sure to wash and sanitize the interior of the Cave as thoroughly as possible. Blue cheese is delicious and one of my favorite home cheeses to make, so don t let this scare you away from making it! Just be careful. Also of note, if aging a cheese with Geotrichum candidum mold, you may want to keep it separate from other cheeses. It is not invasive, but rather, it may be overpowered by other molds present from cheeses in close proximity. Aging on Wood Traditionally, cheeses were aged on wood. If you have the chance to do so, we recommend doing the same. Wood acts as a moisture sink and will help regulate moisture loss in cheeses. Yet cheeses can also be messy. Be sure to scrub off the wood surface of your shelf in hot water with a stiff brush as needed. Dry in the sun to help sanitize the surface. Don t ever use a sanitizing solution on the wooden boards. You should also be careful not to introduce an overly-wet cheese to a wooden board, as the excess moisture will cause the board to warp. For the first few days of aging, keep the cheese in a draining container or on plastic mesh to elevate it slightly and allow for airflow around the cheese. This helps to facilitate early moisture loss before you move the cheese to the wood for aging. Types of Cheese There are different ways to categorize types of cheese, but here are some of the categories used to differentiate families of cheeses. Some cheeses may fall into two or more categories: they are not necessarily mutually exclusive categories. Fresh Fresh cheeses are not aged. They are high in moisture, generally not pressed, and include such cheeses as cream cheese, chevre, cottage cheese, ricotta, etc. This is the category of cheese where most cheesemakers start their journey into cheesemaking. Fresh cheeses are ready to eat sooner and often do not require as much equipment (no press and no aging chamber). Blue Cheese These are cheeses that have been inoculated with a beneficial blue mold. The blue mold will cover the surface of the cheese, and piercing of the cheese at different intervals with a sterilized knitting needle will encourage mold growth in the interior of the cheese as well. The most famous of the blue cheeses includes gorgonzola and Roquefort. Be careful when making these cheeses! Penicillium roquefortii, responsible for the blue mold, is almost unstoppable in its quest for cheese domination. Once you have made blue cheese, it may very well decide to build up a

37 36 residence in your aging chamber and turn all of your cheeses into blue cheese. If you wish to age multiple types of cheese at once, you may try containing your blue cheeses in an aging box alongside your other cheeses. Otherwise, you can alternate cheeses in the Cave, being sure to wipe down and sanitize the interior of The Cave between uses. If you are serious about making blue cheese, you may wish to age your blue cheeses in a separate aging chamber altogether. Stretched-Curd Cheese Stretched-curd cheeses are stretched by hand into long strands (kind of like toffee, if you ve ever seen that process). This gives the cheese a unique texture. Common stretched-curd cheeses include string cheese, mozzarella, and provolone. Some (like mozzarella) can be made without aging or pressing. Washed Rind Cheese Mozzarella stretches. These are cheeses that are washed with a brine during the aging process. In some cases, a beneficial bacteria is added to the brine (B. linens) which gives the rind a reddish hue. This bacteria also ripens the interior of the cheese, creating a soft, stinky cheese. The most famous of the washed rind cheeses includes limburger, Muenster, and brick cheese. Because of the highmoisture level and high-ph of these cheeses, they are at a greater risk of supporting pathogenic bacteria.

38 37 Mold-Ripened Cheese These are cheeses that are intentionally inoculated with beneficial mold, which then cover the surface of the cheese during aging. The mold softens the inside of the cheese to create a highmoisture, high-ph cheese. Well-known mold-ripened cheeses include brie, camembert, and triple cream. These cheeses are made without a press, but many require particular conditions for aging. Mold-ripened cheese can be wrapped in ripening paper during the end of aging to protect the cheese and aid in ripening. Because of the high-moisture level and high-ph of these cheeses, they are at a greater risk of supporting pathogenic bacteria. Semihard and Hard Cheese Triple cream is an easy-to-make mold-ripened cheese. These are cheeses that are pressed firmly to remove as much moisture as possible. This lack of moisture allows them to be aged for a longer period of time. This category includes such cheeses as cheddar, montery jack, and parmesan. Washed Curd Cheese Unlike washed rind cheeses, which are washed during aging, the washed curd cheeses are washed during the cooking process. A portion of whey (up to 50 percent) is removed and replaced with water. This leads to moist and tender cheeses, such as Gouda, Colby, and Butter cheese. These cheeses are pressed and aged like a hard cheese, and are generally either semisoft or semihard cheeses.

39 38 Cheese with Eyes This is really just a category of semihard to hard cheeses, often known as Swiss chese. This type of cheese has eyes or holes in the interior of the cheese formed by carbon dioxide; a byproduct of propionic acid bacteria. The most well-known cheeses of this category include Emmental and Gruyere. These cheeses age at relatively high temperatures (around 65ᵒF/18ᵒC) and are usually made in large wheels. Brined Cheese Feta is the best-known brined cheese, and a great beginner s cheese as well. It is aged and stored in a brine solution. Feta cheese aged in brine. Yogurt, Kefir, Buttermilk, and Sour Cream Well, these aren t technically cheeses, but they are delicious cultured milk products that are relatively quick to make. These are some of the easiest milk products to make, and highly recommended for a beginner interested in starting out in cheese making.

40 39 Crème fraiche (similar to sour cream) is not technically cheese, but it is a cultured milk product. Cheese Recipes There are infinite varieties of cheese that you can look forward to making in your home cheesemaking journey. I have provided just a handful of recipes in this tutorial, so that you may have a focused path on which to begin your journey. I have chosen recipes from a variety of cheese categories (though not all) to give you experience working with different methodology. None of these recipes requires a cheese press: the pressed cheeses that are included here only need light pressing and can be pressed with household items. And finally, I chose recipes that don t require enormous time-on-task requirements. I have made cheese before that required careful stirring and temperature regulation over a period of several hours, but I have a hunch that s not the type of recipe you want to start out with. Of course, cheese takes time to make (especially aged cheeses), but I have attempted to curate those recipes that require mostly hands-off time. I hope you enjoy your cheesemaking journey! For more recipes and inspiration, check out our website at

41 40 Yogurt Yogurt is not a cheese (though you can drain it in cheesecloth to make Greek-style yogurt, or even longer to make yogurt cheese). It is, however, a gateway project to making cheese. If you like yogurt, there is no reason why you shouldn t be making your own. It s easy, inexpensive, and delicious. Plus, it requires no other ingredients or equipment other than what you can get at the grocery store. In our family, we make at least a gallon batch every week, and we eat it for breakfast with homemade soaked granola. Total time until completion: hours 1 hour to make the yogurt, 4-12 hours to ferment, 8-12 hours to chill in refrigerator Important: Please read all instructions before you begin, including the sections on techniques. Equipment: 1.5-gallon stainless steel pot Thermometer Long-handled spoon Small bowl Ladle Jars for storing yogurt

42 41 The Cave aging chamber or cooler Ingredients: 1 gallon milk 1 C yogurt with live active cultures (or you may use an heirloom yogurt culture from a cheesemaking shop, which will allow you to re-culture your yogurt indefinitely) Note: you may change the size of the recipe in either direction to make the amount of yogurt you desire. You will need about 1 Tbsp yogurt for every 1 C of milk you use. How to make Yogurt: 1. Heat milk on medium heat, stirring frequently, to a temperature of 180ᵒF/82ᵒC. 2. Cool milk to 115ᵒF/46ᵒC, using an ice water bath. 3. If a film has formed over the top of the milk, skim it off. Mix a small amount of cooled milk with the yogurt and stir to remove any lumps. Add to the remaining cool milk, and ladle into jars. 4. Maintain a temperature of about 110ᵒF/43ᵒC for 4-12 hours. The longer you let the yogurt ferment, the tarter it will be, due to the conversion of lactose in the milk into lactic acid. The longer it ferments, the weaker the bacteria will become, as they run out of sugars to use as food. If you let your yogurt ferment for 8 or more hours, it will eventually be less viable to re-culture the next batch. If you choose not to use the Cave aging chamber during fermentation, you may also put the jars of yogurt in a hot water bath in a cooler to maintain the proper temperature. 5. Refrigerate overnight or until cool. Keep a small amount of yogurt to re-culture the next batch. 6. If you wish to make Greek yogurt, strain through cheesecloth for an hour, or until desired consistency is achieved. To make yogurt cheese, drain through a cheesecloth for 6 to 12 hours.

43 42 Cream Cheese This is about as simple as cheesemaking gets. It requires very little hands-on time and no aging. It is the perfect project to whet your appetite for more cheesemaking. It is delicious served on bagels, in scrambled eggs, or in cheesecake. Total time until completion: hours hours to make the cheese, 6 hours to drain. Yield: about 30 oz. Important: Please read all instructions before you begin, including the sections on techniques and aging cheese. Equipment: 3-quart stainless steel pot, or larger Thermometer Measuring spoons Perforated skimmer or spoon Knife to cut curd Cloth-lined colander or draining bag Draining container

44 43 The Cave aging chamber or cooler (optional) Ingredients: 4 C whipping cream 4 C whole milk ¼ tsp Flora Danica mesophilic culture 2 drops calcium chloride diluted in 2 Tbsp cool, non-chlorinated water 2 drops rennet diluted in 2 Tbsp cool, non-chlorinated water 1 tsp salt (or 1% of final cheese weight) Herbs (optional) How to make cream cheese: 1. Sanitize all equipment and prepare a clean workspace. 2. Heat milk and cream to 72ᵒF/22ᵒC, stirring gently. 3. Sprinkle mesophilic culture over milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Draw culture down into milk using a skimmer without breaking the surface of the milk. Stir for two minutes. 4. Add diluted calcium chloride and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Wait 5 minutes. 5. Add diluted rennet and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Still milk. Cover and maintain a temperature of 72ᵒF/22ᵒC for hours. When ready, curd will have formed, and whey will be a green-tinted clear color. If ambient room temperature is inadequate and you do not wish to use the the Cave, you may keep your milk warm using a water bath in a cooler. 6. Ladle into a draining bag or cloth-lined colander and let drain for 6-12 hours, or until desired thickness is achieved. 7. Knead salt and optional herbs into cheese using hands. 8. Optional step: place in greased cheese molds and refrigerate until firm, then remove molds. 9. Cover and store in refrigerator for up to two weeks.

45 44 Feta This is a delicious, salty Greek-style cheese. It is a great introduction to aged cheeses, as it is relatively quick to make and can be enjoyed within a couple weeks of brining. My favorite ways to eat it are on sandwiches, in spinach-phyllo wraps, on salads, and with fresh fruit. Total time until completion: 2-3 weeks 2.5 hours to make the cheese, 6 hours to drain, 4 days-3 weeks to age. Yield: about 1 lb, 14 oz. Important: Please read all instructions before you begin, including the sections on techniques and aging cheese. Equipment: 6-quart stainless steel pot (or larger) Thermometer Measuring spoons and cups Perforated skimmer or spoon Knife to cut curd Colander Butter muslin

46 45 Draining container 2 Containers for brine The Cave aging chamber Ingredients: 1 gallon milk (traditionally made with goat milk, though cow will work also) ¼ tsp lipase powder dissolved in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water (optional) ¼ tsp Flora Danica mesophilic culture ¼ tsp calcium chloride diluted in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water ½ tsp rennet diluted in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water Heavy brine (21%): 1 gallon water, 1.75 pounds salt, 1 Tbsp calcium chloride, 1 tsp white vinegar Light brine (6%): 1 gallon whey, 0.50 pounds salt, 1 Tbsp calcium chloride, 1 tsp white vinegar How to make feta cheese: 1. Sanitize all equipment and prepare a clean workspace. 2. Dissolve lipase powder in water and let sit for 20 minutes. Add to milk. 3. Heat milk slowly to 86ᵒF/30ᵒC, stirring gently. 4. Sprinkle mesophilic culture over milk and let it rehydrate for five minutes. Draw culture down into milk using a skimmer without breaking the surface of the milk. Stir in this manner for 3 minutes. 5. Add diluted calcium chloride and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Wait 5 minutes. 6. Add diluted rennet and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Still milk. Maintain a temperature of 86ᵒF/30ᵒC for 60 minutes, or until a clean break is achieved. 7. Cut curds into ½ inch cubes. Let rest for 10 minutes. 8. Stir gently for minutes at 86ᵒF/30ᵒC, just enough to keep the curds from matting together. Stir for the longer length of time to develop a firmer cheese. Let rest for five minutes. 9. Ladle the curds into a cloth-lined colander. Drain for 6 hours in either a draining bag, a cloth-lined colander, or in a cloth-lined cheese mold. If draining in a cheese mold, flip cheese every 1-2 hours. Ideal draining temperature is 70-75ᵒF (21-24ᵒC). 10. Place cheese in heavy brine at room temperature and brine for 8 hours. 11. Cut into 1-inch pieces, and allow to dry at room temperature for about 2 days. Flip the cheese pieces twice a day to facilitate drying.

47 You can eat the feta now, or you can place it in a lighter brine for further aging. Continue to age at 50ᵒF/10ᵒC for 4 days up to 3 weeks, then store in refrigerator. If you plan to age for more than a week, be sure to make your 6% brine using whey rather than water to achieve a higher level of acidity in your brine.

48 47 Cashel Blue Cheese This is a favorite of mine, an Irish blue cheese. It is a great beginner s cheese, with no pressing, and minimal attention required for the development of the natural blue rind. It forms a dense and slightly crumbly cheese with mild to strong blue cheese flavor, depending on how long you allow it to age. I love it on salads and in homemade macaroni and cheese. Total time until completion: 5-7 weeks 3 hours to make the cheese, 12 hours to drain, 5-7 weeks to age Important: Please read all instructions before you begin, including the sections on techniques and aging cheese. Equipment: 6-quart stainless steel pot (or larger) 10-quart pot for water bath Thermometer Measuring spoons and cups Perforated skimmer or spoon Knife to cut curd Draining container

49 48 Cheese matting Cutting board Stainless steel cooling rack Two 4 ¼-inch Camembert molds The Cave Aging Chamber Ingredients: 5 quarts whole milk 1 C cream (may be ultrapasteurized if you can find no other type) ¼ tsp mesophilic culture (MA4000) 1/8 tsp Penicillium roquefortii mold powder ¼ tsp calcium chloride diluted in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water ½ tsp rennet diluted in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water Salt How to make cashel blue cheese: 1. Sanitize all equipment and prepare a clean workspace. 2. Warm milk and cream to 90ᵒF/32ᵒC in a hot water bath. 3. Sprinkle mold powder and culture on surface of milk and let stand for about 5 minutes. Stir gently for 3 minutes using an up-and-down motion to draw the cultures into the milk. Cover milk and allow to ripen for 60 minutes, maintaining a 90ᵒF/32ᵒC temperature. 4. Add diluted calcium chloride and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Wait 5 minutes. 5. Add diluted rennet and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Still milk. Maintain a temperature of 90ᵒF/32ᵒC for 40 minutes, or until a clean break is achieved. 6. Cut the curd into 1-inch cubes. Let stand for 10 minutes. 7. Continue to maintain a 90ᵒF/32ᵒC temperature for 30 more minutes. Stir the curds every few minutes to keep the curds from matting together. Allow the curds to settle for the last five minutes. 8. Ladle off whey until you have reached the surface of the curds. Ladle the curds into two Camembert molds set over cheese matting and a stainless steel drying rack in a draining container. Let drain 12 hours, flipping at least three times. Ideally, room temperature should be kept at 70-75ᵒF (21-24ᵒC) during draining.

50 49 9. Remove cheese from molds and salt the tops of cheese (about 3/4 tsp of salt on each top and bottom, or a total of 3% of cheese weight). You will salt the other sides of the cheeses after hours, after you have flipped the cheeses. 10. Age at 50-52ᵒF (10-11ᵒC) and 85-90% relative humidity in The Cave Aging Chamber. Turn daily for the first week 11. After one week, pierce each cheese about 10 times from top to bottom with a sterilized knitting needle. This introduces oxygen into the interior of the cheese so that blue mold will develop on the inside. Age one more week, and pierce again with the sterilized knitting needle. By the second week, blue mold should be visible on the surface of the cheese. 12. Age for another 3-5 weeks, turning the cheese every few days to keep it from sticking to the surface of the shelf.

51 50 Tomme This is a simple, rustic, every-day hard cheese with a natural rind (though you can wax it if you want). Tomme is actually a generic term for a class of cheeses made in Switzerland or in the Alps. There are many versions of Tomme, and this is one of my favorite go-to cheeses to make. Total time until completion: 2-5 months 3 hour to make the cheese, 4-7 hours to drain and press, 12 hours to brine, 2 days to dry, and 2-5 months to age Important: Please read all instructions before you begin, including the sections on techniques and aging cheese. Equipment: 18-quart stainless steel pot (or larger) 32-quart pot for water bath Thermometer Measuring spoons and cups Perforated skimmer or spoon Knife to cut curd Ladle

52 51 Colander Cheesecloth Draining container Stainless steel cooling rack 1 large tomme mold, 7 ½-inch diameter 2 and 5 pound weights for pressing Container for brine The Cave aging chamber Ingredients: 4 gallons whole milk ¼ tsp mesophilic culture (MA4000) 1 tsp calcium chloride diluted in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water ½ tsp rennet diluted in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water Heavy brine (21%): 1 gallon water, 1.75 pounds salt, 1 Tbsp calcium chloride, 1 tsp white vinegar How to make Tomme cheese: 1. Sanitize all equipment and prepare a clean workspace. 2. Warm milk to 70ᵒF/21ᵒC in a hot water bath. 3. Sprinkle the cheese culture on the surface of milk and let stand for about 5 minutes. Stir gently for 3 minutes using an up-and-down motion to draw the cultures into the milk. 4. Increase milk temperature to 90ᵒF/32ᵒC in hot water bath. 5. Add diluted calcium chloride and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. 6. Add diluted rennet and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Still milk. Cover pot and maintain a temperature of 88-90ᵒF (31-32ᵒC) for 45 minutes, or until a clean break is achieved. 7. Cut the curd into ½-inch cubes. Let rest for 5 minutes. 8. Increase the temperature gradually until the curds have reached 100ᵒF/38ᵒC, about 1ᵒF every 2 minutes or 1ᵒC every 3 minutes (which should take about 20 minutes). Hold the temperature at 100ᵒF/38ᵒC for 20 minutes, stirring gently. At this point check the curd s texture. When torn apart, the curds should have even texture. They should also be pliable. Feel them in your hand, squish them between your fingers, and get a sense for what their consistency is. With time, you will be able to tell what the proper texture

53 52 looks and feels like. If the curds have not yet developed the proper texture, give them 10 more minutes before moving on to the next step. Let settle for 5 minutes. 9. Ladle off whey to the level of the curds. Ladle the curds into a cloth-lined colander, then transfer to a prepared tomme mold after 5 minutes. During draining and pressing, aim to maintain a temperature of about 70-80ᵒF (21-27ᵒC). 10. Press the cheese lightly with a 2 pound weight. Flip after 30 minutes. Continue pressing for an additional 3-6 hours at 5 pounds, flipping every hour. 11. Remove cheese from the mold and place in a cool 21% brine. Brine for 12 hours at 50-56ᵒF (10-13ᵒC), flipping halfway through. 12. Remove cheese from the brine and allow to dry at room temperature for 2 days, turning periodically. 13. At this point, you may oil the rind (or wax the cheese if you prefer). Age at 52-55ᵒF (11-13ᵒC) and 80-85% relative humidity for 2-5 months. Continue to maintain the rind (if unwaxed) by brushing and oiling.

54 53 Butterkäse This is a German cheese which literally translated means butter cheese (though it's not made out of butter). It is a moist and mild cheese that melts easily, and is similar in flavor and texture to Gouda. It s great for snacking and sandwiches. Total time until completion: 4-6 weeks 3 hour to make the cheese, 5 hours to drain and press, 12 hours to brine, 2 days to dry, and 4-6 weeks to age Important: Please read all instructions before you begin, including the sections on techniques and aging cheese. Equipment: 18-quart stainless steel pot (or larger) 32-quart pot for water bath 8-quart pot of water for boiling water Thermometer Measuring spoons and cups Perforated skimmer or spoon Knife to cut curd Ladle

55 54 Colander Cheesecloth Draining container Stainless steel cooling rack 1 large tomme mold, 7 ½-inch diameter 5 pound weight for pressing Container for brine The Cave Aging Chamber Ingredients: 4 gallons whole milk ½ tsp buttermilk mesophilic culture or Flora Danica mesophilic culture ½ tsp thermophilic culture ¾ tsp calcium chloride diluted in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water 50 drops annatto coloring diluted in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water (optional) ¾ tsp rennet diluted in ¼ C cool non-chlorinated water 18-quart stainless steel pot (or larger) Medium brine (18%): 1 gallon water, 1.5 pounds salt, 1 Tbsp calcium chloride, 1 tsp white vinegar How to make butterkäse: 1. Sanitize all equipment and prepare a clean workspace. 2. Warm milk to 86ᵒF/30ᵒC in a hot water bath. 3. Sprinkle both cheese cultures on surface of milk and let stand for about 5 minutes. Stir gently for 2 minutes using an up-and-down motion to draw the cultures into the milk. Cover milk and allow to ripen for 30 minutes, maintaining an 86ᵒF/30ᵒC temperature. 4. In the meantime, bring a 2-gallon pot of water to a boil for five minutes. Allow the water to cool slowly until it has reached a temperature of 140ᵒF/60ᵒC. This water will be used in step 9 to wash the curds. 5. Increase milk temperature gradually to 102ᵒF/39ᵒC in hot water bath. 6. Add diluted calcium chloride and optional annatto coloring and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Wait 5 minutes.

56 55 7. Add diluted rennet and stir using up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Still milk. Cover pot and maintain a temperature of 102ᵒF/39ᵒC for 40 minutes, or until a clean break is achieved. 8. Cut the curd into ½-inch cubes over a period of about 10 minutes. Stir for 10 minutes. Let settle for 5 minutes. 9. Ladle off half of the whey until you have reached the surface of the curds. Replace the whey with the prepared 140ᵒF/60ᵒC water, until the temperature has been brought up to 108ᵒF/42ᵒC. Stir gently for 10 minutes to keep the curds from matting. At this point check the curd s texture. When torn apart, the curds should have even texture. They should also be pliable. Feel them in your hand, squish them between your fingers, and get a sense for what their consistency is. With time, you will be able to tell what the proper texture looks and feels like. If the curds are not yet ready, continue to stir gently for another 10 minutes. After they are ready, let them stand for 10 minutes. 10. Pour contents into a cloth-lined colander, then transfer to a prepared tomme mold after 5 minutes of draining. During draining and pressing, aim to maintain a temperature of about 80ᵒF (24-27ᵒC). 11. Press the cheese lightly with a 5 pound weight. Flip after one hour. Continue pressing for an additional 5 hours, flipping every minutes. 12. Remove cheese from the mold and place in a cool 18% brine. Brine for 12 hours at 50-56ᵒF (10-13ᵒC), flipping halfway through. 13. Remove cheese from the brine and allow to dry at room temperature for 2 days, turning periodically. 14. At this point, you may oil the rind (or wax the cheese if you prefer). Age at 52-56ᵒF (11-13ᵒC) and 85-90% relative humidity for 4-6 weeks. Continue to maintain the rind (if unwaxed) by brushing and oiling.

57 56 Triple Cream Brie A cousin to the well-known Brie cheese, Triple Cream has additional cream added to it, leading to an even more rich and buttery cheese. The additional fat slows the softening process, which in turn increases the window of ripeness for the cheese (rather convenient for the person making a surface-ripened cheese for the first time). Triple cream is my absolute favorite, and I would be remiss if I did not include this recipe for the home cheesemaker. Total time until completion: 2-4 weeks 24 hours to make the cheese, 24 hours to drain, 2-4 weeks to age. Important: Please read all instructions before you begin, including the sections on techniques and aging cheese. Equipment: 6-quart stainless steel pot Thermometer Measuring spoons and cups Perforated skimmer or spoon Butter muslin Colander