Edible marine algae. potassium is present in greater quantities than sodium.

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1 marginata, which is found in the Pacific from California to Alaska. To complicate matters, the former also goes by the name of Atlantic wakame or wild wakame, even though it belongs to a completely different genus. On occasion, winged kelp is also just called kelp, using the umbrella term for large brown algae, which is reasonable given that it belongs to the order Laminariales. It has thinner, softer blades than other types of kelp and its color tends toward yellowish and olive green with a golden midrib. Winged kelp has very characteristic long spore-bearing blades (sporophylls), which branch out from the stipe above the holdfast. They resemble small wings, hence, the Latin name derived from ala, meaning wing, and the common English name of the seaweed. The main blade, which can attain a length of 1 3 meters, has irregular segments, especially toward the tip, which look a little like a fringe. In many cases, dried winged kelp can be substituted for Japanese wakame in recipes, but it requires a longer soaking time (ca. 20 minutes). After it has been rehydrated in cold water, dried winged kelp is almost as good as fresh. It has a mild taste and can be used as a salad. The midrib is edible if it is toasted and deep frying the sporophylls brings out a taste that is reminiscent of peanuts. Winged kelp is one of the seaweed species with the highest vitamin A content, comparable to that of spinach and parsley. It also contains a significant amount of calcium, almost equivalent to that in sesame seeds, and potassium is present in greater quantities than sodium. Bladder wrack abundant everywhere Bladder wrack is a brown alga from the genus Fucus, the best known example of which is Fucus vesiculosus. Although it is widespread along the coastlines in virtually every part of the world and is possibly one of the more valuable of all the species of seaweeds, it is held in relatively low esteem. Some varieties of bladder wrack have traditionally been used to make a tea and it can be used in the same way as konbu. It is not very often utilized as food for humans, which is a shame, as the youngest and outermost shoots of the seaweed are extremely tasty. Fucus is commonly dried and sold in two forms: as granules or as small branches, which are a beautiful deep green or brownish color and have their dehydrated air bladders attached. It has a strong taste of iodine and is generally very salty, both indicators that bladder wrack has a chemical composition that mirrors that of konbu. It is good in cooked dishes, soups, or sprinkled on salads. 85 Edible marine algae SS Winged kelp (Alaria esculenta). SS Bladder wrack (Fucus vesiculosus).

2 86 SS Dried specimen of sporophylls on winged kelp (Alaria esculenta) from the collections of the Natural History Museum in London.

3 In 1908, a Japanese chemist, Kikunae Ikeda ( ), identified msg as the chemical compound that is responsible for the savory taste of the traditional Japanese soup stock, dashi. This broth is made from a warm aqueous extract of konbu and a conserved fish product called katsuobushi. Konbu turned out to be very rich in msg, which makes up about 2 3 % of its dry weight. Ikeda coined the term umami to describe the taste of msg, from the Japanese umai (delicious taste) and mi (essence). Of the many different variants of Japanese konbu, ma-konbu, rausu-konbu, and rishiri-konbu are considered to be the best bases for dashi and they yield a very light dashi with a mild and somewhat complex taste. Ma-konbu is the konbu with the largest amount of free msg, 3200 mg/100 g, whereas rausukonbu has 2200 mg/100 g, and rishiri-konbu has 2000 mg/100 g. The lower quality hidakakonbu has 1300 mg/100 g. f f Dried arame and bladder wrack. Seaweeds and umami The taste of seaweeds is closely tied to what is known as the fifth taste or umami. In Asia, one has for many years talked about five different types of taste. In addition to the four well-known ones sour, sweet, salt, and bitter there is a fifth taste, umami, which in Japanese means something along the lines of savory or delectable. That umami is a distinct taste in the sensory physiological sense was established scientifically in 2000, when the first specific taste receptor that is able to recognize the key substance imparting the umami taste was identified. This substance is monosodium glutamate, msg, the sodium salt of glutamic acid, an amino acid found in great abundance in seaweeds. msg is sometimes referred to as the third spice, the first two being salt and pepper. It is used widely as a taste enhancer in Chinese cuisine. msg is also found in cured ham, Parmesan cheese, mature tomatoes, as well as fish and soy sauce. Hence, terms often used in English to characterize umami taste are brothy and meaty. Brown algae such as konbu have a particularly high msg content. This substance is released when the seaweeds are softened and heated gently in water. Normally one should not wash dried seaweeds before using them, as tasty minerals and amino acids have often seeped out onto their surfaces. Their taste can, however, also depend on how they are treated. When making soups, for example, the seaweeds should not be boiled for very long or, better yet, not at all, as prolonged cooking can bring out a taste that is too strong and fish-like. Other substances, which are derived from nucleic acids that are dissolved within the cells of some seaweeds, in particular nori, are also sources of the umami taste. These nucleic acids, especially inosine monophosphate and guanosine monophosphate, are formed when the cells break down atp (adenosine triphosphate), the energy storing molecule, in order to obtain the energy they require to do their work. Nucleic acids impart a sweetish taste to seaweeds and these taste substances can be transferred to the animals that eat the algae. Sea urchin roe is sought out for its sweetness and umami taste, which is due to the inosine monophosphate that sea urchins ingest when they graze in kelp forests. The reason why seaweeds contain many of these substances that draw out the umami taste is that they help to maintain the correct osmotic balance in the seaweed cells so that they do not burst when they are exposed to the surrounding, often very salty, seawater. Consequently, seaweed species from more saline oceans have a stronger umami taste. Another substance that 96

4 Seaweeds, wellness, and nutrition Folk traditions and the health movement For many millennia, the original inhabitants of all continents, especially those in coastal areas, have availed themselves of seaweeds for food and medicine. In the last few decades, numerous health movements have embraced seaweeds and marine algae and touted their beneficial aspects. Some of these claims are well founded, at least from a scientific point of view. In other cases, probably the majority, the supposed positive effects are supported by references to tradition and experience. There is a real need for research in this field. Nevertheless, there are some interesting observations that are hard to avoid. It is well-known that people who inhabit places where consumption of substantial quantities of seaweeds and other marine foodstuffs is the norm have a lower incidence of cardiovascular disease and high blood pressure. They also tend to live longer. This latter fact was already pointed out in 1927 by the Japanese professor Shoji Kondo of Tohoku University, who was investigating the correlation between lifespan and diet in various areas of Japan. His findings, later corroborated by more recent studies, were that on those islands of southern Japan where the consumption of seaweeds is high, life expectancy, especially that of women, is generally longer. These population groups also had a low calorie intake, ate less rice, and used less salt in their food than those in other parts of Japan. Throughout the ages, and increasingly in connection with a variety of modern health movements, beneficial properties and the ability to cure all sorts of ailments, from digestive problems to cancer, have been ascribed to seaweeds, algae, and products made from them. Seaweeds, wellness, and nutrition What have we already learned? In general terms, it can be said that a varied diet that includes a proportion of seaweed products, for example, up to 10% as in Japan, promotes wellness. This is due principally to the high concentration in marine algae of important minerals and vitamins. These minerals in seaweeds are in what are known as chelated and colloidal forms, which enhance their bioavailability in the body. Seaweeds are also a good source of proteins and essential amino acids. In addition, marine algae have a much greater fiber content than vegetables and fruits, as they are largely composed of both soluble and insoluble dietary fiber. Because dietary fiber is indigestible, it contributes no calories, 101

5 Seaweeds and cancer Although seaweeds and seaweed products are sometimes promoted by wellness experts and therapists as anti-cancer agents, there is, unfortunately, no strong scientific basis for such claims. Nevertheless, there are a large number of interesting studies that indicate that incorporating marine algae into the diet can suppress cancer in cell cultures and in laboratory animals such as mice. It has also been proven that hijiki, to take one example, stimulates the proliferation of human lymphocytes (white blood cells or T-cells), which strengthen the immune system and the body s own ability to attack tumors. One of the bioactive substances in marine algae, which may act as an anti-cancer agent, is fucoidan, a polysaccharide found in the brown algae konbu and wakame. Its effectiveness seems to be linked to its sulphate content. Fucoidan works on the cancer cells by inducing them to commit suicide in a programmed, controlled manner (technically known as apoptosis). Some of the seaweed fats (glycolipids) have also been shown to be able to suppress tumor growth. Neither of these effects is, however, sufficiently convincing or significant to form a basis for the treatment of cancer with seaweed products. Nevertheless, it is possible to posit that a diet with a certain seaweed content can possibly have a positive, preventative effect. An unforeseen finding is that another of the seaweed polysaccharides, carrageenan, which is found in red algae, can counteract cervical cancer. This type of cancer, which annually claims the lives of 250,000 women around the world, is caused by a virus that is transmitted sexually in the same manner as hiv and herpes. Carrageenan seems to protect the surface of the cells, preventing the virus from entering them. The surprising aspect is that carrageenan is more effective than the medicines currently on the market. With this discovery, both a preventative measure and a promising treatment are in sight. In addition, because the treatment would be inexpensive, it would be economically feasible to make it accessible to the poor. A large-scale clinical trial being conducted in South Africa and Thailand is trying to determine whether contraceptive gels that contain carrageenan will live up to expectations that they will also protect women against hiv infection. For the same reason, a company is producing condoms with a carrageenan coating. Japanese women resident in Japan generally have a low incidence of breast and thyroid cancer. For example, the incidence of breast cancer in women is eight times lower in Japan than in Great Britain. On the other hand, Japanese women who live abroad, follow a Western diet, and eat little seaweed run the 108

6 Doses of those orders would correspond to up to 2 grams pure kainic acid for an adult human being. There appears to be no published data regarding human safety values, neither are there there any published studies relating oral intake of food containing kainic acid to neuronal activity in humans. In order to reach the hazardous levels of kainic acid used in the mice and rat experiments, a total amount of about 30 kilograms dried dulse of the variety with the highest concentration of kainic acid is required. It is highly unlikely that a human being would consume such a large amount of dulse in one meal. Furthermore, the consumed dulse has to pass through the gastrointestinal system before possibly making it into the bloodstream and from there across the blood-brain barrier. It would appear, therefore, that consumption of most dulse species does not present any serious danger to human health. In the normal Japanese diet, which typically includes about 4 10 grams of marine algae every day, the iodine content is about 1 mg. It has been estimated that the average daily Japanese iodine intake is 1 3 mg and that some Japanese consume as much as 20 mg of iodine in their daily food. In a single sheet of nori, used for sushi rolls, there are only about 40 μg of iodine, but it is not unusual for a bowl of good miso soup made with konbu to have about 1 mg. How much seaweed should one eat? There is no scientific evidence for dietary advice about how much or how little seaweed one should eat. As there is also no well-documented proof of the therapeutic effects of marine algae, there are no recommended dosages for seaweed products in a medicinal context. Nevertheless, there are two relationships that need to be taken into account. One is the iodine content in seaweeds and the other is the content of salts. In both cases, the central issue is to eat neither too much nor too little. Not surprisingly, the well-known maxim of the Renaissance doctor and alchemist Paracelsus still applies: All substances are poisons; it is only the proper dose that differentiates a poison from a remedy. Even though seaweeds contain potassium salts, and in the case of some species a greater quantity of potassium salt than of sodium salt, the overall salt content can pose a problem for persons with a tendency to high blood pressure. So the golden rule is the usual one: use salt sparingly. Our intestinal flora and enzymes are not normally adapted for breaking down some of the carbohydrates found in seaweeds. Consequently, some people benefit from incorporating marine algae into their diet slowly to allow their systems to adjust. It is, therefore, sensible to eat small portions of seaweeds regularly, instead of big quantities once in a while. Also, one should not expect that any positive effects of seaweeds on overall health would be noticeable immediately; this can take several months. Given all of the above, it seems reasonable to recommend that the average adult could eat about 5 10 grams dry weight of seaweeds on a daily basis. 112

7 nori industry. Here I could see with my own eyes her carefully mounted Porphyra umbilicalis and read annotations, in her own handwriting, about classification and where the specimen was found. Then I was allowed to sit amongst the collections and make use of the library, where there are many interesting books about algae that I have found nowhere else. Sitting beside the old shelves and cupboards, I soaked up the congenial atmosphere of this place, where time seemed to stand still and the staff went quietly about their tasks. When I was leaving, Jenny Bryant told me that it had been a good day for algae, as one of their former colleagues had dropped by. I had the impression that seaweed research is a low priority at the museum and that only a few phycologists work on the collections. I exited by the little side door and found myself back on the large main staircase. To think that one could pass by that modest entrance and have no idea about what lies behind it. Seaweed people are friendly and they are possessed of a peculiar, quiet enthusiasm for that special alga to which much of their working life is devoted. And they love to share their passion for it with others who are interested in the subject. I left the museum in a good mood, with my own seaweed obsession recharged. Better yet, an arrangement had been made for me to come back again and have photographs taken of some selected specimens from the collections. f f Dried specimen of the red alga sea beech (Delesseria sanguinea) from the collections of the Natural History Museum in London. f f The Natural History Museum in London and a peek into the Herbarium. 114

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9 SS Bullwhip kelp (Nereocystis luetkeana). The popular name is probably derived from the resemblance of its long flexible stipe with a cluster of thin fronds at the end to the type of whip traditionally used in North America to control livestock. The stipe is anchored to rocks on the seabed and held aloft in the water by a large air-filled bladder, typically the size of a fist, but the largest of which can hold up to three liters of air. About 12% of this air is carbon monoxide. This characteristic bladder of the seaweed is the source of its scientific name, as Nereocystis means mermaid s bladder in Greek. At the top of the bladder, there is a clump of very long, broad, and thin ribbon-like blades. They benefit from the rapid growth pattern of Nereocystis and, as a result, are most delicate and eminently edible. When dried and toasted, they are crisp and delicious. The hollow stipe can also be eaten if cut up into rings and toasted or marinated. Another tasty species of very large brown algae is the perennial giant kelp (Macrocystis pyrifera, also known as Macrocystis integrifolia) which consists of a very long stipe, to which a series of wide blades are attached by small, pear-shaped, air-filled bladders. The blades are broad and narrow towards the top, with a sawtooth edge and a characteristic wrinkled pattern of waves and bulges. This pattern helps to create turbulence in the water that flows around them, thereby replenishing the supply of fresh nutrients available to the organisms. Dried giant kelp looks like a piece of crepe paper but, amazingly, the original pattern reappears perfectly when the blade is soaked in water. SS Giant kelp (Macrocystis pyrifera). f f Underwater forest of bullwhip kelp (Nereocystis luetkeana). Laver the delicate red alga Because it is used to produce nori, laver is probably the seaweed genus that figures most prominently in in all parts of the world. Its scientific name is Porphyra, which is the Greek word for a purple-red color. Laver grows in temperate waters in the upper and middle parts of the intertidal zone and is, therefore, easy to harvest at low tide. It has no stipe and consists of ribless blades that fasten themselves directly to rocks. The blades are brown or purplish in color, elastic, and very thin, being made up of only one or two layers of cells. Many different species of Porphyra are harvested in various parts of the world. They are known by an assortment of popular names, such as slebhac in Gaelic Irish, purpurhinde in Danish, laver or sloke in English, zicai in Mandarin, and gim in Korean. In New Zealand, the Maoris have for centuries gathered several species of Porphyra that they call karengo. In the North 72

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11 nori prices have stagnated on account of competition from producers in Korea and China. Consequently, nori fishing in Chiba is on a downward slope and young men no longer automatically follow in the footsteps of their fathers. Their way of making a living is threatened not only by the industrial invasion of the fertile sandbanks and international competition, but also by the rapid changes to which modern Japanese society is subject. One of the fishers put it this way in the pub in the evening: my son does not want to be a nori fisher he wants to study. The main problem affecting the industry is lack of manpower. But the fishers of Kisarazu have not given up and have banded together into a non-governmental organization (NGO). This very evening, six of them, led by Norio-san, were meeting at Minshuku Yohei. They were working on a project to teach children about nori, how to cultivate Porphyra, and what it all means for e e Six nori fishers at the pub in Kisarazu on Tokyo Bay. the ecosystems of the bay and the local community s understanding of itself. These points stand out in stark contrast to what we had seen that afternoon of the way in which industrial expansion was inexorably squeezing out seaweed cultivation. Even though it may seem incomprehensible, neither the Porphyra researcher nor the fishers think that there are major pollution problems in Tokyo Bay, especially not in comparison with an earlier time. Wastewater is treated and emissions from the factory chimneys are filtered. The fishers 79