Paul Vossen. University of California Cooperative Extension 133 Aviation Blvd. Santa Rosa, CA (707)

Transcription

1 Paul Vossen University of California Cooperative Extension 133 Aviation Blvd. Santa Rosa, CA (707)

2 AGENDA SEPT. 18 & 19 AGENDA SEPT. 18 & 19 How to taste olive oil sensory science What is olive oil how is it made and what are defects and positive qualities? Health aspects of olive oil World production & consumption tradition US & World standards CA competitiveness Different faces of Arbequina Distinguishing defects from varietal character Interesting single varietal oils Consumer preferences research Tasting some of the best oils (award winners) Mock competition judging

3 Two primary reasons for interest in olive oil Mechanization & Health

4 Olive Oil Mechanization Innovation GROWING OLIVES Mechanical harvest Low vigor varieties Drip irrigation Mechanical pruning PROCESSING FRUIT Cont. flow system Electricity (pumps, motors, temp. control) Stainless steel

5 Naturalness of Olive Oil Physical separation of oil No solvent, no heat, no chemicals Mono-unsaturated fat Stable, LDL cholesterol, HDL, Anti oxidants Claims of reducing cancer and diabetes Tradition Flavor, Mediterranean diet

6 Olive Oil and Health

7 WHAT IS OLIVE OIL? An olive is made up of: Water (40 to 60%) Oil (10 to 30%) Solids (30% - dry wt.) Sugars (3%) Proteins (2%) Other acids, vitamins, minerals, pectins (2%) Water 40% 50% 60% Oil 30% 20% 10% Solids 30% 30% 30%

8 WHAT IS OLIVE JUICE? Olives Olive Juice (70%) Remove solids Olive Oil Remove water Triglycerides (98-99%) Emulsified water ( %) Impurities ( %) Fluidity Sensory Characteristics Liposoluble compounds gels Sediments

9 Olive Oil Composition WATER FRACTION 0.5 to 1.9% Water soluble compounds Phenols Polyphenols Terpenes Tocopherols Esters Volatile Hydrocarbons OIL FRACTION 98-99% 99% Lipids Fatty Acids Oleic (61-83%) Palmitic (7-18%) Linoleic (2-18%) Linolenic (1.5%)

10 WATER SOLUBLE COMPONENTS OF OLIVE OIL Squaline a terpene (bitterness) Polyphenols - tirosol, oleuropin, anthocyanins, flavenoids (flavors & antioxidants) Tocopherol (vitamin E) (anti-oxidant) Chlorophylls Caratenoides (pigments) Sterols (campesterol, estigmasterol, etc.) Aliphatic alcohols (esterfication = waxes) Small Hydrocarbons (volatile aromatics)

11 OIL FRACTION IS FATTY ACIDS + GLYCERINE = TRIGLYCERIDES CH 2 OH O CH OH and R C OH CH 2 OH Glycerine Fatty acids

12 THE LINKAGES BETWEEN CARBON ATOMS CAN BE: Single: C C (more stable) Double: C C (less stable) Triple: C C (un-stable)

13 SATURATED FATTY ACIDS Zero double bonds: HAVE: CH 3 (CH 2 ) 7 CH CH (CH 2 ) 7 CO 2 H Palmitic acid (saturated)

14 MONO-UNSATURATED FATTY One double bond: ACIDS HAVE: CH 3 (CH 2 ) 7 CH CH (CH 2 ) 7 CO 2 H oleic acid (monounsaturated)

15 POLY-UNSATURATED FATTY Two double bonds: ACIDS HAVE: CH 3 (CH 2 ) 4 CH CH CH 2 CH CH (CH2 ) 7 CO 2 H linoleic acid (polyunsaturated) Three double bonds: CH 3 CH 2 CH CH CH 2 CH CH CH 2 CH CH (CH 2 ) 3 CO 2 H linolenic acid (polyunsaturated)

16 Triglycerides in Olive Oil This is a fatty acid It has 18 carbons It has 1 double bond It is monounsaturated It is oleic acid This is the glycerol backbone of the molecule This is the polyunsaturated fatty acid linoleic acid This is a fatty acid It has 16 carbons It has no double bonds Therefore it is saturated It is palmitic acid

17 Free Fatty Acid Breakdown of oil Decomposition Rancidity Off flavors

18 Free Fatty Acid Level % Free fatty acid level is oxidative breakdown and has no specific flavor Based on the Free fatty acids within the oleic fatty acid Not the amount of oleic fatty acid No sour acid flavor Bitterness and pungency is not acidity Do not report the fatty acid level as acidity Report it as the free fatty acid level Oleic (55-83%) Palmitic (7-18%) Linoleic (2-18%) Linolenic (1.5%)

19 HOW OLIVE OIL IS MADE Simple and Natural! Crush the fruit Separate the oil from fruit-water and solids

20 Producing Extra Virgin Olive Oil Simple as Good Fruit no rot not frozen 2. Handled carefully no damage short storage 3. Processed quickly in modern clean equipment 4. Stored well clean stainless steel - purged 5. Sold within a year or less

21 OLIVES on the TREE Quality is the best it can be Good fruit = extra virgin Olive Fly = defect Drought stress = bitterness Excess water = blandness Frozen Fruit = defect Ground Fruit = defect

22 Pre-harvest defects can come from: Freeze Olive fly Pesticide Maggot damage Copper Residue OK Frozen

23 Frozen Olives

24 OLIVE FLY DAMAGE and OIL SENSORY ANALYSIS Can tolerate more damage if the fruit is not rotten

25 Extra virgin slight flavor abnormalities Infested but not rotten; harvested early; consumed quickly Defective lamp oil extreme rancid and fusty flavor Infested with 1% rot; oil stored for months

26 Irrigation influence on flavor: Severe drought stress Excess moisture BLAND BITTER

27 AVERAGE FRUITNESS, BITTERNESS, AND PUNGENCY OF OILS INFLUENCED BY IRRIGATION Treatments Fruitiness Bitterness Pungency 15% ET 3.6 A 6.0 A 4.9 A 25% ET 3.2 B 4.2 B 3.9 B 40% ET 2.7 C 1.7 C 1.9 C 57% ET 2.6 C 0.93 D 1.1 D 71% ET 2.1 D 0.3 D 0.3 E 89% ET 1.8 D 0.22 D 0.22 E 107% ET 1.7 D 0.20 D 0.2 E

28 Olive Harvest & Handling Problems Bruising

29 Significant damage Paul Vossen

30 Shaker Harvester Catch Frame Minor damage ALMOST INSIGNIFICANT

31 Colossus Paul Vossen

32 Colossus Harvested Manzanillos

33 Minor damage from workers stepping on the fruit on the nets ALMOST INSIGNIFICANT

34 Olive Harvest & Handling Problems Ground fruit

35 Ground Fruit Mechanical Pick-up

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37 Ground Fruit

38 Tasting the 1 st oil (Q6W)

39 Olive Harvest & Handling Problems Stored fruit

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43 FUSTY Anaerobic fermentation defect Off flavors from fermentation by-products Atrojado in Spanish (pile of olives = troje) Riscaldo in Italian = heated Composted fruit Often confused with Olivy Flavor Stored olives, mushy black brined olives, olive mill waste pit or pond, sweaty gym clothes, humid, lactic, 3-methyl-butan-ol, n- octane, iso-amyl alcohol, iso-butyl alcohol

44 FUSTY FUSS-tee\ adj 1 British : impaired by age or dampness : moldy 2 : saturated with dust and stale odors : musty 3 : rigidly old-fashioned or reactionary Tweed jackets and horn-rimmed glasses give Professor Corti a fusty air, but he's actually much hipper than he looks. "Fusty" probably derives from the Middle English word "foist," meaning "wine cask," which in turn traces to the Medieval Latin word "fustis," meaning "tree trunk" or "wood." Originally, it described wine that had gotten stale from sitting in the cask for too long; "fusty" literally meant that the wine had the "taste of the cask." Eventually any stale food, especially damp or moldy food, was called "fusty." Those damp and moldy connotations were later applied to musty places, and later still to anything that had lost its freshness and interest - that is, to anything old-fashioned.

45 BIOGENESIS OF FUSTY, WINEY/VINEGARY & MUSTY DEFECTS DAY 0 - Present in and on fruit Enzymes, bacteria, yeast, molds DAY 2 Beginning of texture loss (skin breakdown) Enterobacter and Clostridium (fusty & winey) DAY 4 Fermentation Yeasts, lactobacillus, and acetobacter + sugars = ethanol, lactic acid, ethyl acetate, & acetic acid (fusty and winey/vinegary) DAY 6 Mold growth Fungus mycelium (musty) Angerosa et al. 1998

46 French Chome Oil

47 Made Fusty on Purpose

48 GOOD OLIVE OIL STARTS WITH GOOD FRUIT

49 Tasting the 5 th oil (KX7)

50 Tasting the 6 th oil (4LF)

51 FRUIT MATURITY Degree of Ripeness Hard Green Soft Yellowing Black Skin - Flesh Green Black Skin and Flesh Large influence on sensory attributes

52 FRUIT POLYPHENOL LEVEL & COLOR DURING THE GROWING SEASON 100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% Veraison Color Change Green Yellow-green > ½ Purple skin Black skin white flesh Black skin < ½ black flesh Black skin > ½ black flesh 20% 10% Green Black skin & flesh to pit 0% M J J A S O N D J F Vossen, compiled from multiple sources Growing Season

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54 Maturity Style Generalities Green Fruity 8 Green 7 Ripe Fruit 0 Bitter 7 Rough 6 Astringent 6 Pungent 6 Balance 1 Grass Herbaceous Nettle Tannic Woody Ripe Fruity 6 Green 5 Ripe Fruit 5 Bitter 3 Rough 1 Astringent 1 Pungent 4 Balance 8 Floral Nutty Almond Apple Berry Over-ripe Fruity 2 Green 0 Ripe Fruit 8 Bitter 0 Rough 0 Astringent 0 Pungent 0 Balance 2 Tropical Banana Eucalyptus Buttery

55 Tasting the 4 th (UC2)

56 TRANSPORT & STORAGE Farm to mill Bins - Boxes - Bags Shallow Depth Ventilation Short Distance or Time The olives should not be damaged.

57 GREAT OIL BAD OIL Magic When its great Perfect climate Perfect soil Old stressed trees Secret tradition Perfect variety mix Perfect maturity Good blending

58 GREAT OIL BAD OIL When its great Magic Perfect climate Perfect soil Old stressed trees Secret tradition Perfect variety mix Perfect maturity Good blending When its bad Processor goofed

59 PROCESSING STEPS 1. Fruit Transport 2. Fruit Storage 3. Fruit Cleaning 4. Fruit Washing 5. Fruit Crushing 6. Paste Malaxation 7. Oil Separation 8. Oil Cleaning 9. Oil Settling 10.Oil Storage 11.Oil Filtration 12.Oil Bottling 13.Bottle Storage 14.Waste Disposal

60 Leaf and stem removal

61 WASHING OLIVES BEFORE MILLING Clean fruit should not be washed Washed fruit has more moisture = homogenization Polyphenol content is lower Wash water is usually dirty Sensory rating for washed olives is lower

62 OLIVE CRUSHING Hammermill Disc Crusher Fruit Pitter Stone Mill

63 PASTE FINENESS COARSE Less oil released from fruit More extracted from paste Less polyphenols released Produces milder oil FINE More oil released Less extracted from paste More polyphenols Produces stronger oil

64 Stone Mill Difficult to clean - oxidation & fermentation Coarse paste less olive flavor

65 Hand Olive Crusher (Morocco)

66 Turkish Stone Crusher and Decantation Basins

67 Animal or Water Powered Stone Crushers

68 California Mission

69 California Mission Stone Crusher

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71 Morocco 2007

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73 Old Stone Crusher

74 Spanish Cones Italian Wheels

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76 Italian Stone Crusher

77 Modern Italian Stone Crusher

78 Roller Crusher

79 Hammer Mill Fast & efficient Easy to clean Oil is greener Oil is emulsified & requires more malaxation Stainless steel leaves no metallic flavors

80 Hammermill and Screen

81 The hammermill smashes the fruit and pushes it through a screen

82 Screen size affects paste fineness

83 Hammermill

84 Blades Hammers

85 Knife Blade Crusher

86 Knife Crusher & Screen

87 Disc Mill Two opposing discs with steel protrusions Paste fineness is intermediate Easy to clean

88 Disk Crusher

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90 Cheese Grater Crusher

91 Removal of Pits Pits contain 2-3% 2 oil Crushed pits release enzymes Oil made from de-pitted fruit is less oxidized, more bitter, and more pungent Waste water is different Machinery is complex

92 De-pitter Crusher

93 Pitter & Crusher

94 Left de-pitted paste Right pits crushed in paste

95 MALAXATION (MIXING) Paste is slowly mixed to form larger droplets 35 minutes to 1.5 hours Temperature < o F = cold Reverses Homogenization

96 Malaxation tank jacketed to slightly warm paste

97 Malaxation tank blades

98 MALAXATION INFLUENCE ON QUALITY Oxygen exposure Cleanliness Time Temperature

99 Malaxation Time and Temperature TIME More oxidation More enzyme action More oil extracted Less polyphenols Less stability Less + flavors More color TEMPERATURE More oxidation More enzyme action More oil extracted More polyphenols More stability Less + flavors Less color

100 MALAXATION TEMPERATURE EFFECT ON AROMAS GOOD BAD Good Aromas (ppm) Bad Aromas (ppm) Temperature in o C (Ranalli et al., 2001), cv. Leccino

101 Zero O 2

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104 Separating the solids, fruit- water, and oil Natural decantation (specific gravity) Press Selective filtration Centrifugal decanter

105 TRADITIONAL PRESS TRADITIONAL PRESS Paste spread onto a filter mat Mats are stacked up Press cake is squeezed

106 Stacking the mats

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109 Esparto Steel Wire Esparto and Nylon

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111 Matty Defect Historical necessity Romantic diversion Almost non existent in modern world

112 Old Screw Press

113 Screw Press

114 Screw Press

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116 Old Lever Press

117 Lever Press

118 Heated Turkish Presses

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121 Contrast between a focus on quality or indifference to quality

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126 Tasting the 3rd Oil (SLF( SLF) In order to make good oil you must be a good taster

127 RANCID Oxidative breakdown of the oil Off flavors from deterioration by-products Keytones, aldehydes, organic alcohols Old oil Stale, deep fried foods, old butter or oil, old walnuts, old salami, old peanut butter, heated oil, oil-base paint, putty, varnish, wax, crayons, 2-pentanol, 2-eptanol, etc..

128 WINEY - VINEGARY Aerobic fermentation defect Off flavors from fermentation by-products Yeast fermentation of sugars in the olive Yeasty, winey, vinegary, raising bread, brewery, wine cellar, nail polish remover, glue, sour, acetic acid, ethyl acetate, acetone, matty, solvent, etc.

129 Sinolea Separation Sinolea Separation Stainless steel blades in contact with paste Oil adheres to stainless steel Water & solids remain No pressure Complicated equipment Called selective filtration

130 Selective Filtration over time 5 min 10 min 15 min 20 min

131 Selective Filtration Screen

132 Selective Filtration Rotating screen drums leak out liquid portion of paste via gavity Paste moves through via an auger inside the drums

133 DECANTERS Horizontal centrifuge Spins at 3,000 rpm, force decants oil 3-Phase (Oil - Solids - Fruitwater) 2-Phase (Oil Solids mixed with Fruitwater)

134 DECANTER Horizontal Centrifuge

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136 PHASE SEPARATION WITHIN A DECANTER Solids (Pomace) Fruit-water & solids interphase Fruit-water Oil & fruit-water interphase Oil Exit port for 3- phase fruit-water Vossen, Masters Oil Processing Course Exit port for oil

137 3- Phase System Dry Solids 48% moisture (6-7% oil) Water Solid Fruit Water 8% solids - 0.3% oil Oil Oil (and some water)

138 3 PHASE DECANTATION (TWO LIQUID PHASES)

139 2-Phase System Fruit Water & Solids > 55% moisture Water & Solids Oil Oil (and some water)

140 2-PHASE DECANTATION (Oil only fruit-water goes out with the solids)

141 AVERAGE INTENSITY OF ATTRIBUTES FROM 2 & 3 PHASE DECANTER (SEASON 92/93) SPAIN Intensity Phase 3 Phase 0 Fruity Green Bitter Pungent Sweet Attributes Total Flavor

142 Recycled fruit-water (2.5-phase)

143 OIL CLEANING VERTICAL CENTRIFUGE Spins at 6,000 rpm = 4 X Separation Cleans oil of water and solids Cleans wastewater of oil Warm water added to increase interface

144 Vertical Centrifuge

145 Tasting the 2 nd oil (VDY( VDY)

146 MUDDY SEDIMENT Anaerobic fermentation defect Off flavors from fermentation by-products Borras in Spanish (tank sediment) Horse, horse manure, vomit, baby diapers, stank, dull, rotten, putrid, smokey, bad salami, fetid milk, sewer, dregs, extremely strong fusty, billy goat, sour, dairy waste pond, pig farm waste pond, etc

147 In ground tile storage tank Stainless steel tank

148 OIL STORAGE Storage Conditions: Time Light Temperature Tank Material Tank Shape Tank Atmosphere Pipeline Material

149 STAINLESS STEEL STORAGE TANKS Cone shaped bottom to purge sediments periodically Nitrogen added to the air space

150 Antique Oil Storage Tanks

151 Antique Oil Storage Vessels

152 Steel and Clay Storage

153 Metallic Defect

154 BOTTLING Bottling - Canning: Type of container Light Temperature Head space Container Stopper

155 BOTTLING DEFECTS Rancidity (Oxygen, Light, Heat) Sediment (Non Filtration - Bottling Too Soon) Fusty (Fermentation inside the bottle) Color loss (Light exposure)

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157 FILTRATION Removal of sediments Removal of water Removal of some polyphenols

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160 Waste Products and Bad Oil Pomace & Wastewater Compost Animal feed Fertilizer Landfill Sewer system Solvent extract oil then mix with extra virgin = pomace oil Non Extra Virgin Oil Mix with good stuff Throw away Refine then mix with extra virgin = olive oil grade

161 OLIVE Press PROCESSING WASTE 2-phase Fruit-water

162 Wastewater Wash water - 3 phase fruit water plus - vertical centrifuge water

163 Olive Pomace Oil Pomace contains 6-12% 6 oil (40-60% water)

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165 Olive pomace being loaded into a hopper at an olive pomace refinery ery

166 Pit fragments removed and burned to dry the pomace

167 Olive pomace being dried

168 Tanks containing olive pomace and solvents

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170 Dry pomace containing oil Spent pomace Wet pomace containing oil

171 Crude olive pomace oils left after solvent removal, right before solvent removal (solvent is benzene)

172 REFINING OLIVE OIL What to do with crude pomace oil, rancid oil, or oil from rotten olives Neutralizing Washing Odor Removal Color Removal

173 Neutralized with soda Heated & washed Deodorized with heat and vacuum Clarified with clay filtration Olive oil refining equipment used to remove off flavors

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175 NINE GRADES 1. Extra Virgin 2. Virgin 3. Ordinary 4. Lampante (Lamp) 5. Refined 6. Olive Oil 7. Crude Pomace Oil 8. Refined Pomace Oil 9. Olive Pomace Oil VIRGIN REFINED Paul Vossen