Olive Oil Production and Milling

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1 Olive Oil Production and Milling Sonoma - October 15, 2009 Paul Vossen University of California 133 Aviation Blvd. Santa Rosa, CA pmvossen@ucdavis.edu

2 Oil Fruit-water Pomace Paste

3 Presentation Topics What s s Hot about Olive Oil? General Overview of Olive Oil Processing

4 World Production = 2,500 million liters USA Production = 2.5 million liters 0.1%

5 PRODUCTION Y CONSUMPTION 1990/ / tm Production Consumption / / / / / / / / /9 1999/0 2000/1 2001/2 2002/3 2003/4 2004/5 2005/6 2006/7 Production Consumption

6 USA Olive Oil Production, Consumption, & Imports Production ~ 2.5 million Liters Consumption ~ 250 million Liters Exports ~ 17 million Liters Imports ~ million Liters From Italy 71% From Spain 15% From Turkey 5% From Greece 2% From Australia, Chile, Argentina 7%

7 USA imports 99% of consumption

8 Cheap imports typically have defects #1 Defect = Rancid - old oils (not fresh) #2 Defect = Fusty - cheap oils - low cost producers from ground harvested or poorly handled fruit #3 Defect = Heated Flavor - Mix of refined & pomace oil up to IOC standard of non-detectable

9 Paul Vossen

10 SUPERMARKET OILS Paul Vossen

11 Australian National Show (Richard Gawel) Entries FFA Total Ave. Small Vol Ave. Large Vol Ave. Bulk n/a Overall Average Tasting Results Gold 13%# 5%# 3% 3% 4% Silver 7% 8% 11% 11% 2% Bronze 7% 8% 26% 18% 38% Award Winners 27% 21% 40% 32% 44% Disqualifications 23% 15% 23% 18% 14%

12 Free Fatty Acid Level Crude measure of quality 0.8 is very high 0.5 is high In Australia oils with 0.1 to 0.2 received the most and highest medals In Australia oils above 0.3 received no medal or were disqualified

13 Fancy Laboratories How much WHATEVER can you mix with good oil (0.2% FFA) to meet the % 0.8% FFA standard?

14 Status quo USDA & CDFA European Voluntary Standards COOC European Voluntary Standard No Independent Taste Panel No Marketing Order (Commission) No enforcement Paul Vossen

15 We Use EUROPEAN Standards Because We Don t t Know Any Better European Standards are a recipe for how to meet the MINIMUM quality level

16 New Australian Standards Australian Competition and Consumer Commission Identifying adulteration with refined, pomace, and seed oils with new technology Setting standards that reflect REAL extra virgin grade

17 New World Imports Good Quality - Good Price Australia Chile Argentina

18 Two primary reasons for interest in olive oil Mechanization & Health

19 Olive Oil Mechanization Innovation GROWING OLIVES Mechanical harvest Low vigor varieties Drip irrigation Mechanical pruning PROCESSING FRUIT Cont. flow system Electricity (pumps, motors, temp. control) Stainless steel

20 Salvation = Mechanization Harvest can be 50% + of production cost

21 Medium density

22 Set up for trunk shaker harvest

23

24 Olive Tree Shaker Wrap Around

25 Paul Vossen

26 California Prune Harvester

27 California Pistachio Harvester

28

29 Trees for Colossus harvest

30 Paul Vossen

31 View from top of Colossus

32 Portugal 5,000 acre ranch Over-the the-row grape and Colossus harvest

33 Grape harvester for young trees and Colossus for mature trees

34 California New Plantings

35

36 Trees for over-the-row grape harvest

37 Tractor pulled over-the-row grape harvester

38 Tractor pulled over-the-row grape harvester

39 Harvest Efficiency/ton Hand: $350-2,000 Hand held combs & shakers $ Trunk shaker nets ground $ Trunk shaker wrap around $ Over-the the-row grape $40-80 Over-the the-row colossus?? $75

40 HOW OLIVE OIL IS MADE Simple and Natural! Crush the fruit Separate the oil from fruit-water and solids

41 Extra Virgin Olive Oil Simple as Good Fruit no rot not frozen 2. Handled carefully no damage short storage 3. Processed quickly in modern clean equipment 4. Stored well clean stainless steel - purged 5. Sold within a year or less

42 OLIVES on the TREE Quality is the best it can be Good fruit = extra virgin

43 Pre-harvest defects can come from: Freeze Olive fly Pesticide Maggot damage Copper Residue OK Frozen

44 Frozen Olives

45 OLIVE FLY DAMAGE and OIL SENSORY ANALYSIS Can tolerate more damage if the fruit is not rotten

46 Irrigation influence on flavor: Severe drought stress Excess moisture BLAND BITTER

47 Olive Harvest & Handling Problems Bruising

48 Colossus Harvested Manzanillos

49 Minor damage from workers stepping on the fruit on the nets ALMOST INSIGNIFICANT

50 Olive Harvest & Handling Problems Ground fruit

51 Ground Fruit Mechanical Pick-up

52

53 Olive Harvest & Handling Problems Stored fruit

54

55

56

57 BIOGENESIS OF FUSTY, WINEY/VINEGARY & MUSTY DEFECTS DAY 0 - Present in and on fruit Enzymes, bacteria, yeast, molds DAY 2 Beginning of texture loss (skin breakdown) Enterobacter and Clostridium (fusty & winey) DAY 4 Fermentation Yeasts, lactobacillus, and acetobacter + sugars = ethanol, lactic acid, ethyl acetate, & acetic acid (fusty and winey/vinegary) DAY 6 Mold growth Fungus mycelium (musty) Angerosa et al. 1998

58 GOOD OLIVE OIL STARTS WITH GOOD FRUIT

59 FRUIT MATURITY Degree of Ripeness Hard Green Soft Yellowing Black Skin - Flesh Green Black Skin and Flesh Large influence on sensory attributes

60 FRUIT POLYPHENOL LEVEL & COLOR DURING THE GROWING SEASON 100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% Veraison Color Change Green Yellow-green > ½ Purple skin Black skin white flesh Black skin < ½ black flesh Black skin > ½ black flesh 20% 10% Green Black skin & flesh to pit 0% M J J A S O N D J F Vossen, compiled from multiple sources Growing Season

61 Maturity Style Generalities Green Fruity 8 Green 7 Ripe Fruit 0 Bitter 7 Rough 6 Astringent 6 Pungent 6 Balance 1 Grass Herbaceous Nettle Tannic Woody Ripe Fruity 6 Green 5 Ripe Fruit 5 Bitter 3 Rough 1 Astringent 1 Pungent 4 Balance 8 Floral Nutty Almond Apple Berry Over-ripe Fruity 2 Green 0 Ripe Fruit 8 Bitter 0 Rough 0 Astringent 0 Pungent 0 Balance 2 Tropical Banana Eucalyptus Buttery

62 Oil Yield Based on Fruit Maturity and 2 nd Pressing Variety Maturity Gallons of oil/ton % Mission Green yellow Mission Half ripe red color Mission Fully ripe black fruit Mission Fully ripe shriveled fruit Mission Moldy pomace 2 nd pressing

63 TRANSPORT & STORAGE Farm to mill Bins - Boxes - Bags Shallow Depth Ventilation Short Distance or Time The olives should not be damaged.

64 Paul Vossen

65 PROCESSING STEPS 1. Fruit Transport 2. Fruit Storage 3. Fruit Cleaning 4. Fruit Washing 5. Fruit Crushing 6. Paste Malaxation 7. Oil Separation 8. Oil Cleaning 9. Oil Settling 10.Oil Storage 11.Oil Filtration 12.Oil Bottling 13.Bottle Storage 14.Waste Disposal

66 GREAT OIL BAD OIL Magic When its great Perfect climate Perfect soil Old stressed trees Secret tradition Perfect variety mix Perfect maturity Good blending

67 GREAT OIL BAD OIL When its great Magic Perfect climate Perfect soil Old stressed trees Secret tradition Perfect variety mix Perfect maturity Good blending When its bad Processor goofed

68 Leaf and stem removal

69 WASHING OLIVES BEFORE MILLING

70 OLIVE CRUSHING Hammermill Disc Crusher Fruit Pitter Stone Mill

71 Hand Olive Crusher (Morocco)

72 Turkish Stone Crusher and Decantation Basins

73 Animal or Water Powered Stone Crushers

74 California Mission

75 California Mission Stone Crusher

76

77 Morocco 2007

78

79 Spanish Cones Italian Wheels

80 Modern Italian Stone Crusher

81

82 Roller Crusher

83 The hammermill smashes the fruit and pushes it through a screen

84 Screen size affects paste fineness

85 Blades Hammers

86 Variable speed knife blade crusher

87 Disk Crusher

88 Cheese Grater Crusher

89 De-pitter Crusher

90 Pitter & Crusher

91 Left de-pitted paste Right pits crushed in paste

92 Malaxation tank jacketed to slightly warm paste

93 Malaxation tank blades

94 Zero O 2

95

96

97 TRADITIONAL PRESS TRADITIONAL PRESS Paste spread onto a filter mat Mats are stacked up Press cake is squeezed

98 Stacking the mats

99

100

101 Esparto Steel Wire Esparto and Nylon

102

103 Matty Defect Historical necessity Romantic diversion Almost non existent in modern world

104 Old Screw Press

105 Screw Press

106 Screw Press

107

108 Old Lever Press

109 Lever Press

110 Heated Turkish Presses

111 Small California Press

112

113 Oil Yield Based on Fruit Maturity and 2 nd Pressing Variety Maturity Gallons of oil/ton % Mission Green yellow Mission Half ripe red color Mission Fully ripe black fruit Mission Fully ripe shriveled fruit Mission Moldy pomace 2 nd pressing

114 Contrast between a focus on quality or indifference to quality

115

116

117

118

119 Selective Filtration Screen

120 Selective Filtration Rotating screen drums leak out liquid portion of paste via gavity Paste moves through via an auger inside the drums

121 Sinolea Separation

122 Selective Filtration over time 5 min 10 min 15 min 20 min

123 DECANTER Horizontal Centrifuge

124

125 DECANTERS Horizontal centrifuge Spins at 3,000 rpm, force decants oil 3-Phase (Oil - Solids - Fruitwater) 2-Phase (Oil Solids mixed with Fruitwater)

126 Recycled fruit-water (2.5-phase)

127 Vertical Centrifuge oil cleaning

128 In ground tile storage tank Stainless steel tank

129 STAINLESS STEEL STORAGE TANKS Cone shaped bottom to purge sediments periodically Nitrogen added to the air space

130 Antique Oil Storage Tanks

131 Antique Oil Storage Vessels

132 Steel and Clay Storage

133 Metallic Defect

134 FILTRATION Removal of sediments Removal of water Removal of some polyphenols

135

136

137

138 BOTTLING Bottling - Canning: Type of container Light Temperature Head space Container Stopper

139 Paul Vossen University of California Cooperative Extension 133 Aviation Blvd. Santa Rosa, CA (707)

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