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1 AAA WORLD CAMBRIDGE ON THE COMEBACK: THIS HISTORIC CITY ON MARYLAND S EASTERN SHORE IS REINVENTING ITSELF FOR A PROMISING FUTURE WHILE PRESERVING ITS PAST. By Andrea Poe Print Like 282 Share Photo Courtesy of Jill Jasuta After years of fits and starts, the small city of Cambridge, Maryland home to about 12,500 people is finally experiencing a renaissance. And what a worthy one it is for this gracious Eastern Shore town that has seen its fortunes ebb and flow through the centuries. One of Maryland s oldest Colonial cities, Cambridge has a fascinating and complicated history. Always a thriving port, thanks to the deep water of the Choptank River, it was originally settled by English Colonists in 1684 and became a major 19th-century trade center, starting with tobacco but expanding to corn and soybean farming, crabbing and, sadly, slavery. In fact, it wasn t far from downtown Cambridge that abolitionist Harriet Tubman was born. 1/7

2 Choptank River Lighthouse Photo Courtesy of Jill Jasuta By the 20th century, Cambridge had become a Gilded Age mini-paradise for industry titans who capitalized on the lucrative crab, oyster and tomato industry, establishing packing plants near the waterfront. Evidence of this opulence remains in the city s stately homes and impressive downtown buildings. That heritage drove economic prosperity until the 1960s, when fortunes began to shift after canning factories shuttered and social change rocked the country. Today, Cambridge is a cultural incubator, one of those rare places in the Mid-Atlantic where real estate is affordable, making it a magnet for entrepreneurial endeavors, from restaurants to art galleries, lending new energy to the historic downtown. Its prime location in the heart of the Mid-Atlantic combined with its stock of architectural gems have made this city particularly attractive to people looking to invest in a forward-leaning town. Day one: From the Docks to the Downtown The best way to start your exploration is at Sailwinds Park. You can t miss the 100-foot-tall sail installation, the signal that you are entering Cambridge as you drive over the Choptank River. The bi-level visitors center provides an overview of the history and landscape of the area as well as an excellent view of the wide river. Down below, a milelong boardwalk flanked by wildflowers, a small sandy beach and a creative playground complete with old-school double swings overlooking the water beckon. 2/7

3 Sunset over Long Wharf Photo Courtesy of Dorchester Tourism A few blocks away, stroll along the dock at Long Wharf Park, and climb the Choptank River Lighthouse, a replica of the screwpile design that long guarded the shore here. At the Cambridge Municipal Yacht Basin, you can scope yachts, motorboats and simple fishing boats. You can also book passage for a twohour sail aboard the Nathan of Dorchester, a replica of a traditional wooden sailboat historically used for dredging oysters on the Chesapeake Bay. Of course, tradition has it that oysters are available in the r months, but thanks to a robust oyster farming program, Maryland oysters are available year round. The best way to get perspective on the pedestrian-friendly town is on foot. To truly delve into the soul of the city, take a free historical tour. Every Saturday from April through October at 11 a.m., you can show up at the mouth of Long Wharf by the marina for a historic tour along High Street. You ll learn about the town s history, including tidbits on the role that FDR and Napoleon played in town. If you re lucky, along the way you ll run into current residents who may invite you to take a look at their restoration efforts on some of Maryland s most beautiful homes, many dating to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. 3/7

4 5/4/2018 AAA World Article High Street Photo Courtesy of Dorchester Tourism The heart of downtown is all about indie commerce. Galleries and art studios give the historic downtown a thrum. Pop into a funky multimedia co-op called Main Street Gallery, where artists exhibit their work, including stained glass, mosaics and oil paintings. Nearby, Sunnyside Shop focuses on fair trade and environmentally responsible gifts and gadgets. Craig s Drug Store, a downtown anchor since 1867, dispenses pharmaceuticals as well as chic home décor, plush toys and costume jewelry. Stay overnight at the 400-room Hyatt Regency Chesapeake Bay Golf Resort, Spa and Marina, a sprawling 340-acre resort on the banks of the Choptank River, less than a mile from downtown, where many rooms face the waterfront. Multiple pools, including a swim-in/swim-out option; a game room; a 4/7

5 tricked-out fitness room; a newly renovated spa; an 18-hole golf course and a friendly staff make this resort a destination in its own right. There are also family-run bed-and-breakfasts in historic homes in town. Sponsored Content from DestinationGettysburg.com ( Dining options for dinner are many, as Cambridge has become something of an Eastern Shore foodie mecca. Among the best is Blue Point Provision at the Hyatt, where the fish and the view are as good as it gets. In nice weather, come early for an outdoor deck seat, although you can t go wrong with a seat inside, with its soaring floor-to-ceiling windows and overhead paddle fans. In the heart of downtown, Bistro Poplar, a French bistro sans attitude, serves up a worthy steak-frites. One of the newest additions to the restaurant roster, Rock Lobstah is a casual joint dishing tasty spins jalapeño included on the classic lobster roll. Day two: From a Natural Refuge to the Underground Railroad Cambridge is surrounded by spectacular natural beauty. It takes only 10 minutes to drive out of town to reach the Blackwater Refuge, one of America s great migratory bird flyways, which has been preserved since You can navigate a four-mile loop through the refuge that puts you in contact with many Instagram-worthy natural backdrops, or rent a kayak or canoe through Blackwater Paddle & Pedal to traverse the byways and inlets. 5/7

6 Blackwater sunrise and grasses Photo Courtesy of Jill Jasuta Self-drive maps of the Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad Byway are available online or at the visitor center. This map leads you along a pivotal stretch of Maryland s Underground Railroad. It threads through farms, forests and marshland to 36 important sites where Tubman and others helped ferry slaves to freedom. The Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad Visitor Center, a state park jointly run as part of the National Park, honors this American heroine with exhibits and films focused on her life. This is an ideal starting point to further explore the area, Tubman s impact and the tapestry of freedom that was woven by abolitionists. 6/7

7 Harriet Tubman Visitor Center Photo Courtesy of Dorchester Tourism On your way out of town, honor the area s rural heritage with a stop at Emily s Produce. This family-owned farm, where goats, rabbits and chicken frolic, has what many locals consider to be the best farmstand on the Eastern Shore. Not only can you pick up vegetables, fruits and flowers grown on property, but you can also try homemade apple-cider donuts and jams. Cambridge s legacy is its rich history and its indomitable spirit that has spurred reinvention time and time again throughout the past 400 years. Its latest incarnation a quilt of architecture, culture, natural beauty and great food may just be its best yet. This article originally appeared in the May/June 2018 issue of AAA World. 7/7