INTRODUCING M. CHAPOUTIER

Transcription

1 INTRODUCING M. CHAPOUTIER What we call terroir is the combination of soil, the climate which determines the quality of the vintage and the know-how which is rooted in longstanding tradition. Without winemakers, the notion of terroir is meaningless. Without mankind, there can be no terroir. But we may also be the cause of its ruin. Michel CHAPOUTIER An entire history The name CHAPOUTIER has been present in the Rhône Valley since The distant ancestor Polydor CHAPOUTIER was the first to begin to buy vines, thus moving from the status of the estate vine-grower to that of viticulturist, wine producer and businessman. The pioneering spirit was already present in the family. Seven generations later we find Michel, forty something, with a real passion for the expression of soils, at the head of this exceptional house firmly anchored in history and traditions. The estate Between the Alps and the Massif Central, the North and the South, the Rhône Valley is a region of transition and a place of passage, long since subjected to a whole host of influences. This natural and cultural diversity has forged the personalities of people and produced a wide variety of original soils and grape varieties such as the, the and the Viognier. The Maison M. CHAPOUTIER, based in Tain, today boasts one of the finest estates in the Rhône Valley. Its vineyards have gradually spread and diversified at the heart of the best terroirs: Hermitage, Crozes-Ermitage, Saint-Joseph, Ardèche, Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Cornas, to name but a few. One of the jewels in this crown is undoubtedly its exceptional vineyards in Hermitage: more than 32 hectares of vines from the oldest plots on the hillside. The Maison M. CHAPOUTIER has spread from its historic roots to extend its estate today. His love of Rhône soils and grape varieties has led Michel to other exceptional sites in the world, to be discovered and shared: Coteaux du Tricastin, Languedoc-Roussillon and Australia. Biodynamics (Bio = life) + (Dynamics = in action) Love for vines and wine and the awareness of the need to respect the earth have led the Maison M. CHAPOUTIER to adopt a biodynamic cultivation method. This demanding method of cultivation has become a genuine philosophy for the Maison M. CHAPOUTIER. An unflinching desire: to ensure that soils are living and as expressive as possible. Because proposing an appellation d origine contrôlée is to propose above all an expression of the terroir. This expression, a transmutation of mineral to plant, can only exist with a terroir that is in good condition, a terroir that is alive. Difference of taste Let the soil speak, express the terroir and its vintage, this is the quest of the Maison M. CHAPOUTIER. The originality and unique signature of Maison M. CHAPOUTIER lies in the desire not to cultivate its own specific taste, a set style, but rather in its desire to continuously work on differences of taste, those small specific touches specific to each terroir and to each wine. What characterises the great CHAPOUTIER vintages is a search for maximum delicacy, through a nose/mouth crescendo and a real length on the palate. The result is subtle wines, particularly suited to fine dining and association with tasty, generous dishes. Braille The expression of an assertive, confident personality, Braille has been present since 1996 on all CHAPOUTIER labels. Far from being anecdotic, this system draws its origin from the very history of the Hermitage vineyard. Maurice MONIER de la SIZERANNE, owner of the plot of the Hermitage, la Sizeranne, is also the inventor of the first version of abbreviated Braille. The trademark pays tribute to this man but also expresses the desire to reach out to and include all people with sight-impairments that are lovers of good wines.

2 INTRODUCING M. CHAPOUTIER SÉLECTIONS PARCELLAIRES 2006 Exceptional wines, born from plots of old vines, chosen with the greatest care in each appellation. While no formal hierarchical cru system exists in the Rhône, one has been in place (among producers), for several generations. Vineyard names, or lieux-dits (named places) have been established over time, some officially and some through traditional usage. As the great growers have paid more attention to the unique character of their individual vineyard sites, they have been able to elevate a series of unique wines of place. Maison M. CHAPOUTIER has been at the forefront of this movement with its Sélections Parcellaires, rare wines that have become the highest expression of each appellation. Michel has elevated these parcels to an unofficial grand cru range. The success of his efforts can be found in his offerings from the finest vineyard sites from the Northern and Southern Rhône. With only 100 to 700 cases produced annually, these rare wines grown on ancient vines with minuscule yields are among the greatest red and white wines produced in the world. Vinification Maturing All the wines are unfiltered and unfined and use natural clarification. Vinification: The harvest, which is 100% destemmed, is matured in small concrete vats or in open wooden vats. Maceration lasts from 4 to 6 weeks. The temperature does not exceed 32 C to enable good quality extraction. Two daily treadings ensure a good extraction of the tannins. Maturing: Free run juice is transferred immediately into 50% new and 50% one-year-old casks to be matured from 14 to 18 months. Then 6 months ageing in bottle. Vinification: After pressing, the must is cold-racked for 24 hours. Fermentation in 50% new casks, the rest in vats at temperature between 20 and 22 C. Maturing: Before bottling, the maturing in casks is checked by frequent tasting. Maturation on lees with regular stirring for 8 to 12 months. Then 6 months ageing in bottle. Grenache Vinification: In vats made of concrete covered with epoxy resin as Grenache is sensitive to oxidation. The grapes are 100% destemmed; fermentation lasts for about 3 weeks at a temperature which varies from 30 to 33 C. Maturing: Ageing in vats for 14 to 16 months. Then 6 months ageing in bottle. I have never made such good Hermitage wines! Regarding the Côte-Rôtie wines, the 2006 vintage is in my opinion much nicer than the 1995 and 1996 and as good as the 1991! Michel Chapoutier, concluding his tasting of the 2006 Sélections Parcellaires, February 2007.

3 CHAPOUTIER 2006 VINTAGE REPORT Northern Côtes-du-Rhône The different stages of phenological development (budbreak, flowering and veraison) among the vines of the Hermitage and Crozes-Ermitage vineyards took place earlier than the average and as such were fairly identical to those of For the early-maturing areas of the Hermitage vineyards (Coteaux du Méal), this meant bud break on 10 April, flowering on 28 May and the start of veraison on July. Weather conditions in 2006 also broadly resembled those of 2005 in that both years were characterised by cold, dry winters, dry springs and a scorching hot start to the summer (June and July). There were a number of significant differences between the 2 vintages however, with heavy snowfall on several occasions (45 cm of snow), which had the effect of restoring moisture levels deep in the soil, thereby making up for a lack of winter precipitation (only 320 mm). A sharp drop in temperatures (-10 C/50 F in 48 hours) during the middle of the flowering stage in the earliest-maturing parts of the Hermitage vineyards (Méal and Grand Bessard) led to a considerable amount of coulure, which limited yields naturally and resulted in very loosely-packed bunches that enabled air to circulate between the berries, thus contributing to the natural prevention of botrytis. June and July were very hot, even scorching at times, but were also interspersed with some welcome showers (+15 mm in June; +30 mm in July), which considerably reduced the incidence of premature leaf drop and also making for rapid and uninterrupted veraison, unlike 2005 when the process had been slowed down because of a serious lack of groundwater. By the end of July 2006, the situation in the vineyards was very encouraging a hot, dry start to the summer with a few showers prior to veraison, grapes and vines in virtually perfect condition and preciselytargeted, balanced pre-ripening operations (decompaction, moderate leaf removal on the east side) resulting in vines around which the air could circulate freely as well as bunches of grapes with a good amount of space between them. The beginning of August was cooler than July but, from the second fortnight onwards, a strong anticyclone provided seasonal stability with temperatures in excess of 30 C (86 F). As a consequence, photosynthesis increased and the grapes were able to ripen in optimum conditions.

4 At the beginning of September, the skins, which were very thick this year, showed great phenolic potential. Beautiful sunny days and cool nights quickly led to expectations of a late harvest with both berries and skins maturing slowly and consistently. Harvesting began on Tuesday 19 September among the Greffieux vines, the earliest-maturing part of the Hermitage appellation. The last grapes were picked on Wednesday 4 October. Phenolic compounds were extracted quickly and without difficulty because the skins were so ripe. The wines are strong and deep in colour and stabilise easily due to the presence of powerful, concentrated tannins. Added to which, the balance of acids this year will make it possible to preserve this colour when the wine is matured. Since maturity was optimal, our different vats of wine are already displaying the opulence and complexity of the terroirs from which they are produced. The alternation of hot, sunny spells with cooler periods was beneficial from the point of view of ripening among the white grape varieties, which thus retained their mineral character and aromatic freshness at the same time that their sugar content increased significantly. Wines are powerful and mouth-filling in flavour and texture with great aromatic finesse. Our Ermite white was the last plot of vines to be harvested for this, we made the most of the cool morning of Friday 29 September. Southern Côtes-du-Rhône Following a dry spring and a scorching start to the summer, the weather continued to be perfect for the Grenache vines of the Southern Rhône Valley. Rainfall in July and August, during the critical stages in the phenological development of the vines, had the effect of minimising any stress generated by the summer s high temperatures. Consequently and thanks to good weather in September, the Grenache grapes were able to ripen slowly with no variance in time between phenological and technological maturity. The grapes were thus ripe and very balanced when picked. The harvest ended with the Croix de Bois Grenache grapes in Châteauneuf-du-Pape on Thursday 28 September. The colour and intensity of wines leads us to believe that this vintage will be a truly great one for the southern Rhône Valley.

5 Extrait de la carte A.O.C. Hermitage réalisée par le syndicat des propriétaires viticulteurs de l Hermitage. Zones de production De l Orée Ermite Méal Pavillon Greffieux Chante- Alouette Sizeranne Sols liés aux terrasses fluviales du Rhône Sols issus ou liés au granit porphyroïde de Tournon Sols issus ou liés aux Loess Sols fersiallitiques sans réserve calcique, argileux, rouge, sur hautes terrasses fluvio-glaciaires du Rhône. Cailloutis des hautes terrasses du Rhône souvent consolidés en poudingue. Sol calcaire sur colluvions des hautes terrasses du Rhône, à galets de calcaire quartzites et rares cristallins. Sol brun modal sablo-caillouteux perméable, sur cailloutis des basses terrasses du würm. Cailloutis du würm de la basse terrasse (lithosol). Sol brun calcaire argil-limoneux sur limon argilo-sableux des niveaux supérieurs d alluvions récentes. Sable brun, sableux grossier sur niveaux graveleux ou cailloutis d apports locaux. Sol brun modal et lithosols. Sol brun modal sablo-graveleux peu épais avec fragments aréniques (40-60 cm). Sol brun modal sablo-graveleux avec fragments aréniques sur colluvions aréniques plus épais ( cm). Sol brun-jaunâtre, profond, de limon sablo-argileux à poupées calcaires. Sol brun-jaunâtre, profond, de limon sablo-argileux à inclusions d arène granitique.

6 Ermitage Rouge Le Pavillon ha, 100% This wine comes from lieu-dit Les Bessards, a fine layer of sediment lying on granite slopes. Its 65 year old vines are positioned at a lower altitude band of the Hermitage hill, at approximately 130 metres, above the ruins of a stone house that gives it its name. With tiny yields (20 hl/ha), this is perhaps the most complex of the various Ermitage sélections. Le Pavillon is characterised by great length on the palate, and liquorice and tobacco aromas. Ermitage Rouge L Ermite ha, 100% The eponymous vineyard grows on very poor granitic and shallow soils surrounding the chapel of Ermite at the top of the hill of Hermitage. The vineyard s elevated position, over 200 metres, allows long ripening at the end of the growing season, and its loess soils provide excellent drainage for rainwater. The age of the vines averages over 80 years. This wine is the most individual statement in the Hermitage appellation, and the most prized for followers of M. Chapoutier s grandest of crus. L Ermite traditionally produces the most elegant and aromatic Hermitage. It has powerful tannins, smoky notes and black pepper - the perfect expression of grown on granite soils. Ermitage Rouge Le Méal ha, 100% Le Méal, a broader swathe of the hill at a high elevation ( metres) facing slightly more Easterly, takes its name from the old French word meaning the best. The land of sandy gravel, combined with vines over 50 years old, give a wine characterised by a supple character, fine balance and deeply intense fruit aromas. Yields are again exceptionally low, at around 20 hl/ha. Le Méal tends to produce the longest-lived wines from these soils with greater perfume and richness. The nose exhibits a ripe fruit character, with rich, stewed blackberries and powerful but velvety tannins on the palate. Ermitage Rouge Les Greffieux ha, 100% This vineyard is situated at the foot of the hill of Hermitage, with a pebble and clay topsoil on glacial alluvium terraces. The vines are over 50 years old. The character of Les Greffieux is similar to that of Le Méal, with strong but mellow tannins and rich blackberry fruit.

7 Côte-Rôtie Rouge La Mordorée ha, 100% This cuvée s primary source is a very steep, terraced vineyard in the Côte Brune above Ampuis. The soil here is notably more limestone schistous, whereas the old-vine source in the Côte Blonde, more acidic and sandy, provides wine of less dense color. Together these wines create a seamless whole in one of the most exciting appellations in the Northern Rhône. Pure (Michel adds no Viognier), grown at minuscule yields from 70 year old vines, gives this wine power and spiciness, and perhaps less outright mass than any of the Ermitage sélections. Yet its sensual thrills resonate long after the taste has been consumed, and its gain in time of the more earthy and smoky notes so typical of great Côte-Rôtie make it one of the world s unique wine wonders. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Barbe Rac ha, 100% Grenache This vineyard is littered with the famous galets or pudding stones characteristic of the area, but in reality the subsoil if far more important quaternary terrace, with a complex and varied mixture of red clay and ferruginous sand. The vines are the oldest Châteauneuf-du-Pape vines in existence (about 90 years of age). This unique hilltop vineyard West of the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape makes some of the silkiest and most elegant wines in the region. Its biodynamic viticulture ensures the low yields (15-20 hl/ha) necessary to create a pure and intense Grenache-only wine. Late picking develops exotic aromas in this very well-built and long-flavoured wine. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Croix de Bois ha, 100% Grenache This distinctive terroir is located in the town of Bédarrides, and is characterised by large rolled quartz pebbles and a stone content of over 50%. This forces the roots to grow deep in order to find enough useful soil. The pebbles protect the topsoil from the drying mistral wind, the sun, and compacting. The Croix de Bois terroir is nevertheless quite distinct from Barbe Rac. About half the age of Barbe Rac vines, and a bit lower in elevation, its spicy nose and deep red-fruit flavours make a distinctive statement of dense Grenache intensity. The wines from this land have strong structure and colour. It offers multiple aromas: very ripe red fruit, plum, dried grasses and a few spicy scents with full-flavoured, warm tannins. This is a wine with great ageing potential, which perfectly embodies the character of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Saint-Joseph Rouge Les Granits ha, 100% This is a selection of Chapoutier s oldest vines in the appellation of Saint-Joseph, located in the town of Tournon. Here the very poor, very stony granite soil (suggested by the name) is vital in restraining excessive vigour that can adversely affect the quality of less well-favoured Saint-Joseph vines. This wine is characterised by fine balance and forceful tannins, which can be attributed to the poor soil.

8 Crozes-Ermitage Rouge Les Varonniers ha, 100% Les Varonniers is on Southwesterly slopes on the edge of the Hermitage classified vineyards and is made from Chapoutier s oldest Crozes-Ermitage vines of more than 60 years old on average. They grow on alluvium soil from the former bed of the Rhône. It could well be one of the sweetest anomalies in the wine world. Its soil types, much more like Hermitage that the more rolling and often flat plantings of the broad swathe of the surrounding Crozes, give it a distinction much like that of Hermitage. This plot, known as Varogne historically and officially recognised as a lieu-dit, gives it its name. The wine follows the same vinification and maturation as its cousins in Hermitage. Ermitage Blanc L Ermite ha, 100% This wine is made from a selection of Chapoutier s oldest (some more than 100 years old) situated at the top of the Hermitage hill, behind the chapel, in a place named the Ermite with very poor granitic and shallow soils (gore) where there is no alluvium deposited by the Rhône River. The very poor, granite soil therefore yields powerful, more austere wines than those from Ermitage in the other selections. This is the most structured of Michel s white Hermitage and the rarest of all his wines. It shows great elegance and intense minerality typical of concentrated. Ermitage Blanc De L Orée ha, 100% The grapes producing De l Orée come from the parcel Les Murets in the Eastern part of the hill. The soil was formed by alluvium deposited by the Rhône and Isère Rivers during the Ice Age. It comprises of a mixture of rolled pebbles and sand. The old vines (70 years old) guarantee low yields of high quality grapes. De L Orée is always a great critical favourite. Its, so intense due to low yields and high ripeness, handles barrel fermentation without leaving overt oak tones. An amazing wine over time, its qualities of white fruit, honeysuckle, quince, and hazelnut continue to awe all observers. It is one of the longest-living dry white wines in France. Ermitage Blanc Le Méal ha, 100% This Méal hillside has a similar soil composition to the De I Orée vineyard, littered with large pebbles that help to catch the sun s warmth (see Le Méal red). The vine age, in excess of 50 years, has again resulted in very low yields. The tasting note for Le Méal is similar in some respects to De l Orée but with a touch more weight, structure and greater perfume.

9 Saint-Joseph Blanc Les Granits ha, 100% This wine comes from a small selection of very old vines from steep granite slopes in the south of Tournon from the terroir named Les Champs. It has a granite soil containing stones and gravel. The low proportion of stones, and the tendency of the sandy material to aggregate, give low physical porosity. Although the soil is difficult to penetrate, the principal and secondary roots still descend to over 1.2 metres. This granite land adds mineral notes, mixed with floral notes of honeysuckle and young lilies. Ermitage Blanc Vin de Paille ha, 100% The Vin de Paille style originated in Hermitage. In order to renew the tradition, Michel decided to set aside part of the harvest from 1990 to make an Ermitage Vin de Paille. Grapes are picked when very ripe over several selective pickings, then dried on a bed of straw for at least 2 months before pressing. Consequently the must is very concentrated, with a minimum 360g sugar per litre. After fermentation this give 15% alcohol with an intense 105g per litre residual sugar still in place. Normally 300 kgs of grapes are enough to vinify a cask of wine, but for the Vin de Paille one ton of grapes is necessary. Maturation takes place entirely in new oak, for between 24 and 36 months. Complex notes of acacia, honey and straw on the nose lead to an intense palate with an extraordinary length. Coteaux d Aix-en-Provence Rouge - Domaine des Béates Terra d Or Cabernet Sauvignon, and Grenache The Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache come from calcareous clay parcels and the from more sandy ones. The grapes are hand-harvested at peak ripeness, even over-ripe, using plot selection, and totally de-stalked from vines that are on average 50 years old. They are gravity-fed into vats and macerated at a constant, regulated temperature of 33 C for 5 to 6 weeks, with manual punching of the cap and pumping-over. The wine is maturated for 18 to 24 months in oak barrels - 1/3 new - and old demi-muids. Biodynamic viticulture ensures low yields (15-20 hl/ha). The wine displays a concentrated, intense red colour and a heavy, gamey nose. It is full-bodied, with black berry flavours and smooth tannins, tremendous personality, power and character. It may be enjoyed young with red meat or rack of lamb; after ten years in the cellar it will be magical with game.