Merry White. 40th Anniversary Edition. Drawings by Edward Koren. With a new foreword by Darra Goldstein. and a new introduction by the author

Transcription

1 WHI T E C OOK I NGFORC ROWDS Wi t hane wf o e wo dby Da agol ds t e i n a ndane w i nt oduc t i on byt hea ut ho 40t h Me ywh i t e Anni v e s a y Edi t i on C o o k i n gf o C o wd s D awi ngsby Edwa dko e n

2 Dawings by Edwad Koen Mey White With a new foewod by Daa Goldstein 40th Annivesay Edition and a new intoduction by the autho Pinceton Univesity Pess Pinceton and Oxfod 2 3

3 Contents Foewod by Daa Goldstein 00 Intoduction to the New Edition 00 Intoduction to the Fist Edition 00 Pots, Pans, and Utensils 00 Hebs and Spices 00 Convesion 00 Requests fo pemission to epoduce mateial fom this wok should be sent to Pemissions, Pinceton Univesity Pess Published by Pinceton Univesity Pess, 41 William Steet, Pinceton, New Jesey In the United Kingdom: Pinceton Univesity Pess, 6 Oxfod Steet, Woodstock, Oxfodshie OX20 1TW pess.pinceton.edu All Rights Reseved ISBN Bitish Libay Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available This book has been composed in Scala Sans, Sabon, and Hadwood display. Pinted on acid-fee pape. Pinted in the United States of Ameica Acknowledgments 00 Soups and States 00 Main Dishes 00 Vegetables and Side Dishes 00 Dessets 00 List of Illustations 00 This is uncoected poof. Index

4 Foewod When Cooking fo Cowds fist appeaed in 1974, its ecipes seemed adical fo the times. The book s autho, Mey (Coky) White, was innovative, bold in he palate, and anything but pesciptive in style. As a young catee, she aimed to tun cateing into an at, to go beyond the standad pesentation of ho-hum dishes like chicken tetazzini. She wanted to dazzle he guests, and she insisted that the Ameican palate is fa moe adventuous than most people make it out to be. Cooking fo Cowds popelled eades on an eclectic gastonomic tou of the wold, all the while eassuing them that thee is no need to be anxious when cooking fo a cowd, whethe six people o fifty. And no need to be anxious about using unfamilia ingedients! Coky convinced he eades that they could bake a geat cake and enjoy it, too. To situate Coky s inspiing book, we must tavel back in culinay time and ecall the Ameican palate of 1974, befoe any food evolutions had swept the county. Fench cuisine still held sway in upscale estauants acoss the United States, whee affluent dines could demonstate thei distinction by odeing foie gas and escagots this was la gande cuisine classique, not the nouvelle cuisine just coming into vogue. Nationwide, the landscape was defined lagely by Fench and continental estauants, o fast-food and family joints. It is had to imagine that dishes we now take fo ganted Geek moussaka, Swiss fondue, Italian pasta pimavea wee then consideed exotic. Only afte the efoms of the 1965 Immigation and Nationality Act did hole-in-the-wall ethnic estauants begin to appea with any fequency. These unpepossessing places pomised adventuous eates an expanded palate, an antidote to the pedictable fae of 6 Foewod Foewod 7

5 Food fom Moocco, Macella Hazan s The Classic Italian Cookbook, and Madhu Jaffey s An Invitation to Indian Cooking. Copoate Ameica did little to encouage the nation s culinay sophistication. Testkitchen developes focused on convenience instead. Moe women than eve wee joining the wokfoce, and many wee finding it difficult to get a good dinne on the table afte a long day at wok. The big food companies stepped in to help them, ceating new poducts like Hambuge Helpe (intoduced in 1970) and Stove Top Stuffing (bought to maket in 1972). Meanwhile, Ms. Fields and M. Coffee wooed the Ameican public with name bands of cookies and coffeemakes. Many women felt ton between ease and sophistication. Ente Coky White, a Havad gaduate student. She didn t have access to fields of galic and atichokes, o to peach and apicot goves (which had not yet been paved ove). Even though she was fa fom the food mecca of Bekeley, Coky shaed the Califonian spiit of exploation and fun. On a dae, she had begun cooking fo Havad s Cente fo West Euopean Studies in 1970, when she needed to save money towad gaduate school. Each week, Coky pepaed a lunch fo fifty, and one o two dinnes fo twenty-five. As a single mothe of a six-yea-old, she was juggling a lot, but he daughte poved an expet helpe, especially when she was allowed to toss billows of lettuce in bed sheets to dy. The Cente staff typed up all the ecipes and made dittoed copies. One day, Ewin Glikes, the publishe of Basic Books, noticed the ecipes when he came to lunch at the Cente. Afte his meal, he secetly spiited the collection away, and some days late Coky got a phone call out of the blue: Glikes wanted to tun he ecipes into a book. Coky was stunned that an intellectual publishing house would take such an inteest in ecipes, but the ea encouaged visionaies. Ewin Glikes s plan shows geat veve and foesight at a time when the maket fo cookbooks was much moe consevative than it is today. To enhance the book s design, Glikes asked his fiend Edwad Koen to do the illustations. Koen s chammost othe estauants. The geneal discomfot with foeign foods futhe eoded when Richad Nixon visited China in Television netwoks offeed live boadcasts of the banquet Pime Ministe Chou En-lai held in Nixon s hono, tiggeing a national desie to eat authentic Chinese food, beyond the chop suey and chow mein of Chinese-Ameican estauants. Even so, Nixon s visible befuddlement at the chopsticks in his hand undelined to viewes how foeign Chinese culinay cultue eally was. It took the culinay evolution of the 1970s to definitively change people s attitudes about foods, both foeign and local. In 1980, the New Yoke s Calvin Tillin declaed Heny Chung s San Fancisco Hunan Restauant the best estauant in the wold, while Giloy, Califonia, held its second annual festival in celebation of the galic fo which it is famed. Hank Rubin s Pot Luck estauant in Bekeley had fomented evolution in the 1960s, followed in 1971 by Alice Wates s Chez Panisse, whose many talented cooks went on to spead the gospel of good food thoughout the county. The epicente of esculent activity was Nothen Califonia thee thousand miles fom the East Coast, whee Coky White lived but the shock waves quickly spead. Those wee heady times, and the social and political activism of the sixties was eflected in the ways people ate. The natual foods movement had bought an awaeness of fesh food to the table. Palo Alto s newly opened Good Eath estauant tansfomed lackluste bown ice into tasty fae, as did the Moosewood Collective in Ithaca, New Yok. Celestial Seasonings came out with hebal teas that seemed astonishing (Ameicans appaently had neve head of tisanes). Anna Thomas s Vegetaian Epicue lent vegetaianism cachet. But national culinay awaeness still lagged, as evidenced by Pesident Geald Fod s gaffe at the Alamo, when he publicly bit into a tamale still wapped in its conhusk. Ou cultual cluelessness was at least somewhat mitigated by seveal excellent cookbooks that appeaed in the ealy 1970s, all consideed classics today: Paula Wolfet s Couscous and Othe Good 8 Foewod Foewod 9

6 ing, often wacky line dawings contibute geatly to the book s appeal in thei animation of the vegetable wold and the upending of natual scales. You can t help smiling when you see two small men laboing to push a mighty olling pin along. The ecipes fo Cooking fo Cowds wee gatheed fom many souces fom fiends and family, and especially fom Coky s tavels. In the 1970s, she taveled seveal times to Nepal, to tek in the mountains and expeience Nepalese food. A high sense of adventue spills ove into he book. Coky neve eally left the community-minded spiit of the sixties behind, and he book conveys a elaxed, unconstained appoach. She wants people to enjoy themselves in the kitchen, to be bold and not woy about pefection. Recipes should not be daunting pesciptions, but guidelines, bluepints that allow fo flexibility and expeimentation. Above all, Coky believes, ecipes should encouage cooks to play with new, vibant flavos. He self-assued and eassuing headnotes assuage any appehension that incipient cooks might have about plunging in, tying new ingedients o cooking methods, o making meals fo a multitude. Today s eades ae advised to emembe how unfamilia cetain foods seemed in thei day. Coky caefully defines Syian bead (pita) and phyllo dough, tahini and tandoo ovens. She intoduces eades to a foeign heb called cilanto : Coiande is available in Spanish makets, whee it is called cilanto and in Chinese makets whee it is called Chinese pasley, she wites. Reading this book today, we can clealy appeciate the evolution of Ameican taste, as well as the shifting meaning of the tem exotic. If coiande was once defined by its Otheness, we can measue how fa we ve come. Cooking fo Cowds bought the wide wold to people s kitchens well befoe such tendy food puveyos as Dean & DeLuca and The Silve Palate took New Yok City by stom. The book was ahead of its time, too, in its insistence on fesh ingedients, simply pepaed, without fuss o petension. Coky points out the vitue of avoiding eady-made cuy pow- de and stikes a convesational tone with he eades when she gently poclaims that the sameness of commecial cuy powde is to me quite boing. He mission is to convet even the staunchest cauliflowe and sauekaut hates into loves of those foods, and she does so though tempting ecipes fo cauliflowe soup and goulash. She disams the most nevous of eades (could I eve possibly cook fo fifty?!) with chaming desciptions: just seve lemon mousse to you guests at the end of a spicy meal, because the bight citus flavo alets the sodden senses. Coky may admit to having last seved Atichokes and Chick-peas Vinaigette at a mock Roman ogy, beside an entee of squab with tuffled pâté stuffing, but she hastens to add that the salad would be equally delicious seved alongside a chacoal-boiled hambuge at a backyad babecue. The ultimate manta in Cooking fo Cowds is that pleasue should eign supeme. Though decades have passed since the book fist appeaed, it feels fesh. Its exubeance leaps fom the pages. And this same exubeance keeps the ecipes enticing, even if the times may have finally caught up and the ecipes now epesent familia fae. In the end, who can possibly esist Chalotte Malakoff au Chocolat, which emains pefect fo a time when only pleasue mattes? Pleasue is pecisely what this fotieth-annivesay edition pomises a new geneation of eades. And it delives. I ecommend this book to all kinds of cowds. Daa Goldstein 10 Foewod Foewod 11

7 18 19

8 Intoduction to the New Edition The idea that this book could ise, phoenixlike, fom the ashes afte all these yeas shows that its bones wee always stong, and to continue this awkwad imagey, that they might be fleshed out now fo a new audience. We might all benefit fom a look backwad at foods that once did, and now again will, entice us. A good meatball is not dated it stands the test of time and an almond tote has nothing to do with tends and all to do with taste. The dishes I pepaed fo my cateing assignments in the 1970s might now seem less exotic and challenging than they appeaed foty yeas ago, but they will still please both cook and consume. And the use of the book to ceate meals fo lage numbes than fit at the dining table emains elevant. We still love lage, noisy paties of happy eates, whethe they sit at table o, as at my house on occasion, cossed- legged on the floo. I would not deny the histoicity of this book, howeve: Thee ae in its pages stoies of change in Ameican eating and in the place of food in ou values and expeiences. The book came out of my fist eal job cateing fo Havad s Cente fo West Euopean Studies, a special institution then (befoe histoy happened to change its name) and now (when it has become the Minda de Gunzbug Cente fo Euopean Studies). I loved to cook, but I didn t know anything about cooking fo cowds; afte college I took on cateing as a challenge and a necessay souce of income almost on a dae. Abby Collins, one of the wondeful people at the Cente, was bave enough to ask me if I would cate he wedding. Well, I d eaten aound the wold (on a student s shoesting) by then and I thought how had can this be? Besides, it was a fiendly, slightly hippyish event whee foods I liked, Indian cuies and Middle Easten foods like dolmathes and lentils and baklava could wok. Just an extension of infomal gatheings of fiends aound a kitchen table heaped with ethnic food a tem that had gained cuency as an expession of taste and politics in the late sixties. Up the oad was an emblematic estauant called Peasant Stock, whee lage bowls of vaiously and vaguely ethnic dishes that wee politically and nutitionally coect wee seved family- style on long wooden tables. The oddments seved at the wedding wee intiguing enough to lead Abby and he colleague Leonie Godon to take me on as the Cente catee, and theein begins this book s tale. I took the job as a way to lean about food and, of couse, suppot myself. I enjoyed exploing tained as an anthopologist, I kept pushing into new exotic ealms. I aely cooked anything that I d made befoe and almost neve made anything twice fo the audience. Living in Cambidge meant having a lot of fiends who had lived somewhee else and who had gandmothes fom faaway places, fiends who wee geneous enough to shae thei ecipes. The book is a collection of those ecipes and thus appoaches what we would now, athe timidly, call authenticity at least as measued by the food s poximity to the gandmothe s own vesion. My own gandmothes didn t figue much in this wok; they wee of the moden school of efficient boxed mixes and fozen vegetables. I d gown up in the Midwest, and thee was scacely a pizza in my Minnesota neighbohood, no did Chinese food in Chicago offe moe than egg foo young and subgum chop suey. Not that thee is anything is wong with these dishes. By the time I eached high school, we had moved to Boston, and both school and home expeiences of food wee so vey boing that in shee fustation I eacted by seeking madly intense tastes which at that time wee had to find. In high school, lunch was a couse called Gacious Living, which aimed to pepae us young ladies fo ou futue oles as genteel hostesses and especially to sepaate civilization fom the lowe functions of the 12 Intoduction 13

9 body, including appetites of any kinds. The meals, all beige, wee not to be discussed, but politely eaten. Chicken beast coveed with white sauce, mashed potatoes, and cauliflowe wee seved up by black- unifomed Iish maids. One day, I eally couldn t swallow it, liteally, and asked the teache at my ight, Could I please have some salt and peppe? The esponse still ings in my eas: Peppe is too heating fo young ladies. Fom then on my life has been a seach fo the heat and pleasue of food. I wanted food to excite, not to suppess the senses. What a each to my last night s dinne of Umbian lentils o the pok- and- fennel Chinese dumplings of the night befoe, o even the chopped fennel and died pesimmon in the tukey stuffing this past Thanksgiving. The themes of change and continuity in foodways (as we anthopologists call food cultues ) show that tadition neve stands still, that we enhance old foms with new ingedients, and that it s not all about heat, though I now insinuate it into moe dishes than tadition would pemit. The foods in this book ae the childen of necessity and desie: I cooked to please, and a little also to supise the guests, whom I hoped hadn t yet encounteed Afghan pizza o ogan jaush o kulfi. These Euopeanists wee culinay sophisticates in Euopean foods but they pehaps ween t so acclimated to othe cultual models of good eating. I counted on thei inexpeience (which was matched by my own) in Asian, Afican, and Latin Ameican ealms. And I didn t want them compaing my food to what they d had at that pefect Paisian bisto o that ed- velvet- seated vestige of the Austo- Hungaian Empie in Vienna. Fo most of my guests and clients, even the sophisticates, quiche, now as common in cafés as doughnuts, was still exotic. This fact allowed me to make tiny little shimp quiches, exotic enough to seve to Jackie Onassis as a state befoe pâté- stuffed squabs at Havad s Institute of Politics. That s anothe stoy. As I think of the book s beginnings, all the yeas between its fist appeaance and the pesent time collapse, fold up like an accodion. I see Ed Koen, my fiend and favoite catoonist, just as I saw him then, a bit fuzzy like his chaactes and modestly philosophical, meeting me to eat at the old Chang Sho estauant, whee one of his catoons hung ove the cash egiste. I see Ewin Glikes, the diecto of Basic Books, who fist picked up the pile of typed ecipes fom the font desk of the Cente, whee they sat in case anyone wanted to ty a dish at home, and as I found out late, swiped them to take to New Yok. That phone call Could we publish you ecipes in a book? now seems a deam. I see Leonie Godon and Abby Collins, who made eveything wok so that I could get by without seves o dishwashes with no cateing staff at all. I see Pete Gouevitch and Pete Lange, always fist in line fo Fiday lunch at the Cente. I also see the avuncula Daniel Bell, who told me, kindly but confusingly, that I d be bette off continuing to cook than going to gaduate school. I see Chalie Maie, Guido Goldman, and Stanley Hoffmann and emembe Stanley s attempt to name the book Mob Cookey, which was too edolent of wiseguys to wok in the end. I also see Julia Child, who saved me moe than once fom utte disaste. Thee wee legenday nea- failues. One day, I was pepaing lunch fo fifty ou standad Fiday lunch at the Cente. I had made a huge pot of Ukainian soup a specialty of the Putney (Vemont) School Havest Festival, whee I got the ecipe. I suspected none of the audience would have had this big, blowsy, peasant cabbage- and- pok stew, edolent with galic and caaway seeds. I d made salads and big loaves of nealy black pumpenickel, and thee wee chives and sou ceam fo ganish. Makes me hungy to think of it now, but at the time when I d left the kitchen to help set up the dining oom the dish buned, hoibly. Nothing, nothing is as acid as buned cabbage. I ushed back into the kitchen, emoved the pot fom the stove and collapsed in a teaful heap on the floo. Ruined. 14 Intoduction Intoduction 15

10 I got on the phone to Julia as we opened windows and decanted the stew into clean pots. She was just down the block and had said I could call fo help. She always knew it was me because I was almost always cying. What is it now, deaie? I explained, and she biskly instucted me on the phone: have someone un down to Saveno s get moe sou ceam, get lemons, and get pasley. Sou ceam coats the mouth so the bitte taste of bun is masked. Lemon ind and juice changes the taste itself, bightening it. Why pasley, Julia? Because, silly, it makes it petty. Then, she said, put it in a lage tueen and cay it into the dining oom and announce The dish of the day is Smoked Boscht and I did, and it was, and all was well. When I finally cooked the last meal at the Cente and enteed gaduate school, my advises wee a bit embaassed by my cooking past and suggested that I take all my food witing and cookbooks off my ésumé if I wanted an academic caee. Food has come a long way in status since then, and many of my anthopological eseach pojects and teaching now include food. As soon as I got tenue, the cookbooks and all the food jounalism went ight back on the CV: I now announce myself as a food anthopologist with pide and no qualms. This edition owes much to the people in the past who helped, who ate, who wanted moe. And to the people who might now use it. I ve had many equests fo the book ove the decades fom people who want a cowd cookbook fo events (it is still not fo eveyone: one comment was the food is too foeign fo my chuch ) and fom young people whose paents have the book on thei shelves. Adventuing with Gus Rancatoe of Cambidge s Toscanini s Ice Ceam means expanding the culinay epetoy into cones and byways new to me. If I wee to do the book ove, his contibutions would double its size. Ou expeiments have also taught me that paying attention to small things is a vey big idea. I want to thank Pete Doughety of Pinceton Univesity Pess fo his inteest and stewadship in getting the book back and out, and Ed Koen, whose wok is legenday. It has been a geat hono to wok with him, then and now. The fist edition was dedicated to my daughte Jennife, who woked had, tossing lettuce in sheets, kneading bead, and dying dishes. This book is now happily dedicated to Meghan, my ganddaughte, whose mom was the best helpe this cook eve had. <~?~fig. 02 hee, into at> 16 Intoduction Intoduction 17

11 <~?~fig. 08 hee, soups and states at> 28 29

12 New Oleans Shimp Shimp in Dill Pesto This is an excellent cold appetize: shimp mainated in a spicy vinaigette dessing, which must be seved thooughly chilled, pehaps on a bed of geens olive oil ½ c 1 c 2c 3¼ c galic cloves, finely minced small onions, finely chopped aw shimp, shelled and deveined 2 lbs 4 lbs 6 lbs 15 lbs scallions, finely chopped lemon juice ½ c 1 c 1½ c 2½ c salt 1 tsp 2 tsp 4 tsp 3 tbs feshly gound black peppe ½ tsp 1 tsp 2 tsp 3 tsp dy mustad 1 tsp 2 tsp 3 tsp 5 tsp Tabasco, to taste, o ¼ tsp ½ tsp ¾ tsp 1¾ tsp died dillweed 2 tsp 4 tsp 2½ tbs 6 tbs Heat one-thid of the oil in a heavy skillet, add the minced galic and onion, and cook, stiing occasionally, ove a modeate flame fo 10 minutes. Do not let bown. Add the shimp and sauté fo 5 to 7 minutes, still stiing, then emove fom the heat and cool. In a lage bowl, combine the emaining oil, minced scallions, lemon juice, and seasonings. Add the shimp mixtue and toss thooughly. Let mainate in the efigeato fo 6 to 24 hous, stiing occasionally. Seve quite cold, ove ice if possible, with toothpicks. Pesto is that geen spaghetti sauce that gets its flavo and colo fom fesh basil. This fesh dill vesion is delicious on shimp. Seved cold on a lettuce boat, this is an excellent fist couse. A mixtue of fesh dill and pasley may be used white wine ½ c 1 c 1 c 4 c wate ½ c 1 c 1 c 4 c peppecons bay leaves thyme ½ tsp 1 tsp 1¾ tsp 3¾ tsp small onions salt 1 tsp 2 tsp 3 tsp 8 tsp aw shimp, shelled and deveined 1 lb 2 lbs 3 lbs 8 lbs olive oil ¼ c ½ c ¾ c 2½ c galic cloves fesh dill weed, oughly chopped l½ c 3 c 5 c 12 c Combine the wine, wate, peppecons, bay leaves, thyme, onions, and salt in a saucepan. Bing to a boil and simme fo 5 minutes. Add the shimp and simme only until the shimp cul and tun pink, about 5 minutes. Remove the shimp fom the pan, then tun up the heat and educe the liquid by half. Make the pesto in batches by pouing the olive oil about ½ cup at a time into the blende. Add some of the galic and dill to each batch and blend. Empty the blende into a lage 30 New Oleans Shimp Shimp in Dill Pesto 31

13 Quiches I like seving individual quiches fo the fist couse of an elaboate dinne. They ae athe filling, so make them small I use small foil pans, about 3 inches acoss. O make seveal lage quiches to slice. If you make a lage quantity of the basic egg and ceam filling, you can make seveal kinds of quiches fo a buffet, in one baking, simply by adding cooked spinach to some, gated cheese and sautéed onion to othes, and aw shimp to still othes. (O cooked atichoke heats, o blanched aspaagus tips, o use you imagination.) Use any standad ecipe fo pie cust, chilled fo at least two hous befoe you oll it out. If making moe than one pie (seving six) it is bette to make it fesh in sepaate batches, athe than mixing one lage bowl fo twelve, twenty, o fifty. I find it is easie to contol the mixing of the flou and fat this way. One standad 9-inch quiche seves six. One batch of pasty fo a 9-inch quiche will make about 4 small tat-sized quiches. Basic Quiche Mixtue eggs salt ½ tsp 1 tsp 2 tsp 1 tbs cayenne (to taste) gated nutmeg (to taste) light ceam 1 pt 2 pts 4 pts 8 pts Ganish Suggestions aw shimp, shelled, deveined, and chopped 1 c 2 c 4 c 2 lbs Swiss cheese, gated ½ lb 1 lb 2 lbs 4 lbs onion, finely chopped sautéed in butte, until bown 10-oz packages fesh spinach, cleaned, chopped, and cooked in the wate clinging to the leaves Peheat the oven to 375. ½ c 1 tbs 1 c 4 tbs 2 c 4 tbs c ½ lb Combine all the ingedients fo the basic quiche mixtue and beat lightly, then set aside while you oll out the pie cust to fit the pans. Add one o moe of the ganishes above and pou in the basic quiche mixtue, to about ¼ inch of the top of the cust. Bake fo about 40 minutes (the small pans will take less time). note: These can be seved wam o cool, but they ae best tepid, I think. <~?~fig. 14 hee> 46 Quiches Quiches 47

14 Rogan Jaush This simple but delicious lamb cuy is also called colo-passion cuy. Make it hot, and add geen peppes 10 minutes befoe the end if you like. Fo this it s best to gind you own spices, eithe in a peppe ginde, o with a mota and pestle, o, fo lage amounts, in a blende butte 5 tbs 10 tbs 2 sticks 5 sticks medium onions, finely chopped lamb (leg o shoulde) cut into 2 lbs 4 lbs 7 lbs 16 lbs 1- to 2-inch pieces gound ed chilies ½ tsp 1 tsp 1½ tsp 1 tbs o cayenne ½ tsp 1 tsp 1½ tsp 1 tbs salt (season to taste) yogut ½ c 1 c 2 c 4 c gound coiande 1½ tbs 3 tbs 5 tbs ½ c gound cumin 2 tsp 4 tsp 7 tsp 41/3 tbs fesh ginge, finely chopped 1 tbs 2 tbs 3 tbs 1 c gound tumeic 1 tbs 2 tbs 3 tbs 1 c ipe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped geen peppes, diced (optional) Heat the butte in a heavy casseole. Bown the onion to an even dak bown, but do not let it bun. Add the lamb, pushing the onion to the sides. Add the chilies (o cayenne), salt, yogut, coiande, cumin, ginge, and tumeic. Cush the tomatoes onto the meat and cove closely. Let the meat cook at a vey low simme until the liquid is educed. If the liquid has not educed afte 45 minutes, cook uncoveed until meat is tende; the sauce should educe to a syupy thickness by the time the dish is done. Seve with ice pilaf, aita, and chutney. Don t seve nuts and coconut with this, since the pilaf should have aisins and almonds in it. note: This is best eheated the next day. 116 Rogan Jaush Rogan Jaush 117

15 <~?~fig. 36 hee, vegetables and sides at> 152 Chinese Spiced Eggplant 153

16 Galic Fench Dessing Tabbouleh The amount fo six is pehaps moe than you might need fo one sevice, but it keeps, coveed, in the efigeato fo about ten days. Let it come to oom tempeatue befoe dessing a salad. You may add lemon juice to you taste. I like it quite lemony dy mustad 1 tsp 2 tsp 3¾ tsp 8 tsp wate 1 tbs 2 tbs 3¾ tbs 8 tbs galic cloves, finely minced ganulated suga 1 tsp 2 tsp 3½ tsp 5 tsp salt 1 tsp 2 tsp 3½ tsp 5 tsp olive oil10 1 c 2c 3½ c 5c lemon juice 3 tbs 6 tbs 10 tbs 1½ c gated onion (optional) 1 tsp 2 tsp 3½ tsp 5 tsp Combine the mustad with the wate and let stand 10 minutes. Mix in the galic, suga, salt, and oil and let stand fo 1 hou. Add the lemon juice and gated onion, if desied, pou into a lage ja, and beat o shake vey well. Dess the salad just be foe seving. This is an unusual, lemony cacked wheat salad, excellent fo cowds and easy to pepae. The cacked wheat is soaked until tende and mixed with hebs and vegetables bulgha wheat (o cacked wheat) 1 c 2 c 3½ c 8 c onions, finely chopped ¾ c 1½ c 2¾ c 6 c scallions, finely chopped ½ c l c 1¾ c 4¼ c salt 1 tsp 2 tsp 3¾ tsp 6 tsp feshly gound black peppe ¼ tsp ½ tsp ¾ tsp 1¾ tsp Italian pasley, finely chopped 1½ c 3 c 5 c 10 c fesh mint leaves, finely chopped ½ c 1 c 1¾ c 4 c o died mint 3 tbs 6 tbs 10 tbs 1 c lemon juice ½ c 1 c 1¾ c 4 c olive oil ¾ c 1½ c 2¾ c 6 c Ganish tomatoes, peeled and chopped Cove the wheat with cold wate and let stand fo 1 hou. Make sue you have put it in a vey lage pot, as it expands enomously. Dain, then squeeze out the exta wate with you hands. Add all the emaining ingedients except the tomatoes and mix with you hands. Place in a lage bowl and ganish with the tomatoes. note: This can be made the day befoe and efigeated. 164 Galic Fench Dessing Tabbouleh 165

17 <fig. 39 hee, dessets at> 184 Zucchini Casseole 185

18 Toasted Almond Pafait This is a teibly easy assembly job. If you make it in clea cups, it s an attactive fozen desset. Vey good fo lage goups, and well liked by childen if you leave out the um. You may want to use blended syup, as pue maple is expensive. Do not use maple-flavoing oz packages unblanched almonds 1 2 3½ 8 maple syup ¾ c 1½ c 2¾ c 6c um (optional) 2 tbs 4 tbs 7 tbs 1 c vanilla ice ceam, softened 2 pts 2 qts 3½ qts 8 qts Ganish heavy ceam, to be whipped 1 c 2 c 3 c 5 c Peheat the oven to 400. Spead the almonds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven, tuning occasionally, until bowned. Do not let them bun. Chop vey fine with food choppe (not in the blende). Mix the almonds with the maple syup to make a thin paste, adding the um if desied. Spoon a geneous tablespoon of almond paste into the bottom of each of six pafait glasses [o 5-ounce disposable plastic cups]. Cove with a laye of ice ceam. Continue the layes until the cups ae full; then cove with plastic wap and feeze until had. Thity minutes befoe seving, emove fom the feeze and put in the efigeato. Top with whipped ceam. 214 Toasted Almond Pafait Toasted Almond Pafait 215