Quality of the Polish traditional mountain sheep cheese "oscypek"

Transcription

1 Quality of the Polih traditional mountain heep cheee "ocypek" Drozdz A. in Rubino R. (ed.), Morand-Fehr P. (ed.). Production ytem and product quality in heep and goat Zaragoza : CIHEAM Option Méditerranéenne : Série A. Séminaire Méditerranéen; n page Article available on line / Article diponible en ligne à l adree : To cite thi article / Pour citer cet article Drozdz A. Quality of the Polih traditional mountain heep cheee "ocypek". In : Rubino R. (ed.), Morand-Fehr P. (ed.). Production ytem and product quality in heep and goat. Zaragoza : CIHEAM, p (Option Méditerranéenne : Série A. Séminaire Méditerranéen; n. 46)

2 Quality of the Polih traditional mountain heep cheee "ocypek" A. Dro_d_ National Reearch Intitute of Animal Production Cracow, Mountain Sheep Farming Reearch Station in Bielanka, Sieniawa, Poland SUMMARY The traditional technology of ocypek production wa analyed in three hepherd' hut. Particular cheee production phae were examined, the acidity of milk and whey wa defined for particular production phae a well a curd yield and chemical compoition of the cheee. 6.0 litre of milk are needed to produce 1 cheee of 800 g. Ocypek from variou hepherd' hut do not differ in form or ma, but in the amount of water and acidity. The mot table element of the cheee are alt and protein. Average ocypek contain 30-35% of water, 30% of fat, 29% of protein, 2-3% of alt and about 10% of mineral ubtance. Both milk and the cheee do not alway meet the official micro-biological tandard. In the future the producer will have to mark their product with permanent mark that will allow for their identification. Key word: Sheep cheee ocypek, traditional technology, quality. RESUME "Qualité du fromage traditionnel polonai "ocypek" provenant de brebi de montagne". La technologie traditionnelle de fabrication de fromage de brebi "ocypek" a été analyée dan 3 bergerie. Chaque phae de fabrication a été analyée, le degré d'acidité du lait et "petit lait" a été déterminé pendant chaque phae de fabrication aini que le rendement de tranformation du lait en fromage et la compoition chimique de fromage. Pour 1 fromage de 800 g il faut 6,0 l de lait. Le fromage provenant de différente bergerie préentent la même forme et mae, mai il ont un contenu d'eau et degré d'acidité différent. Le compoant le plu table du fromage ont le el et le protéine. Un fromage moyen contient 30-35% d'eau, 30% de matière grae, 29% de protéine, 2-3% de el de cuiine et environ 10% de matière minérale. Aui bien le lait que le fromage ne correpondent pa toujour aux norme microbiologique officielle. Dan le futur, le producteur devront mettre ur leur produit un label permettant leur identification. Mot-clé : Fromage de brebi "ocypek", technologie traditionnelle, qualité. Introduction Polih ocypek i a moked calded hard cheee which ha been made from raw heep milk in the Tatra region for age. Thi cheee i produced in the hepherd' hut during the ummer eaon. Ocypek ha the hape of a pindle with a beautiful characteritic pattern imprinted by a carved wooded form in which the cheee i formed. The weight of cheee range between g and it diameter i about 8-9 cm. They get their nice brown colour and unique flavour when they lay on the helf hanging above the permanent fire in the hepherd' hut. The factor which influence the quality are probably the breed of heep, natural microflora and undoubtedly the hygienic condition and manual kill of the producer. However, the application of regulation concerning obligatory pateurization of heep milk i a threat for the traditional method of cheee production and will reult in a diappearance of mountain heep farming, becaue the revenue on ocypek ale i deciive in the economy of mountain heep farming. Due to the fact that the milk ued for ocypek production in not pateurized, it i not allowed to ell thi cheee in official hop. Neverthele, raw heep milk cheee are produced and old in all the Mediterranean countrie belonging to the European Union, e.g., in Italy (Fiore ardo), France (Roquefort), Spain (Manchego), Portugal (Serra da Etrela), Greece (Feta) and many other. Furthermore, ome of thee cheee that are produced in a traditional way which pecifie the quality, kind of milk and the method of cheee production are covered by an international legal protection that protect the region they come from and their traditional name (AOC in France, DOP in Italy) (Ledda, 1986; Roeiro de Bivar, 1991; Maui and Yamada, 1996). Preently in Poland there are no tandard for ocypek production in the hepherd' hut 111

3 condition. The hepherd ue their own experience and tradition, till not alway do they comply with an unwritten rule that only heep milk hould be ued for the production of thi cheee. Thee fact indicate the need to implement a quality tandard for that cheee and an obligation to mark the product with the producer' mark. The aim of the tudy wa to evaluate the quality of ocypek that are preently being produced in the hepherd' hut a well a to attempt a definition of technological parameter that are important in the production of thi cheee. Material and method Particular phae of ocypek production, from the moment the milk i renneted, through the curd cutting, drying, forming, calding and moking were examined in 3 elected hepherd' hut and on mall cale in the laboratory condition. The chemical compoition of milk and cheee, acidity of particular production phae were defined and microbiological evaluation of milk and the final product were carried out. Milk and cheee analye (chemical, microbiological and enory) were conducted every month according to the Polih Standard (PN 86/A and PN 73/A-86232). Reult In all the hepherd' hut ocypek were produced from milk of mountain heep, which were hand-milked. Thi i the only breed that i milked in the mountain region of Poland (Dro_d_, 1985). In the bulk milk analyed every month the fat content increaed from 5.9% at the beginning of the eaon to 8.8% at the end of eaon and the protein content increaed from 5.6% to 7.5%. Thee two element decided on the increae of the dry matter content, which amounted to 16.8% in June and 21.1% in September. The amount of lactoe wa decreaing lightly during the eaon (Table 1). Milk ample taken before proceing from the vat contained from 250 x 10 3 to 900 x 10 3 of total bacterial count (TBC) and E. coli titre from 0.1 to Table 1. Chemical compoition of polih mountain heep milk during eaon June July Augut Septembe r Fat Protein Lactoe Dry matter Traditional technology In the hepherd' hut examined milk proceing tarted after the morning milking, and the milk from the morning wa mixed in a wooden vat of about 100 litre with ripened one milked on the night before. During renneting the milk temperature wa 36 C on average. All the producer rennet the milk with a commercial rennet. Natural rennet i not ued preently, though it i till widely applied in the production of heep cheee in the Mediterranean countrie (Pettinau et al., 1977). Milk titration acidity before renneting wa 8-9 SH. The curd wa uually cut with a wooden comb-haped device after min. After another 30 min the curd ret on the bottom of the vat. An hour after renneting the milk, whey acidity increae by 1-2 SH, ometime reaching the level of 10 SH. When the cheee ma i mixed the hepherd add a couple of litre of hot water into it, which facilitate ynerei. Then whey acidity drop to the primary level. 112

4 The curd of the rice grain ize i then grinned oftly and poured into a meaurer to obtain cheee of imilar ize. Thi activity take min and it ha a major influence on the cheee forming, curd grain olidification and the creation of a typical cheee tructure. Thank to thi the cheee i platic and it ha a mooth cro-ection. A lump of cheee of the average weight of about 1.4 kg taken out of the meaurer i kneaded in the hand to queeze out the whey and dipped into the hot water of C. When the cheee i ufficiently platic, it i moulded manually into a fat rolling-pin haped log. In the cheee centre a wire i piked or a thin wooded tick which help to queeze the whey better. The cheee i calded and kneaded alternatively. When the right hape and conitency are achieved, the cheee i placed in the brine for 24 hour. On the day after the drying, the cheee i placed on the helve above the fire that burn permanently. Uually after one week the cheee i ready for ale. The weight of cheee formed that way depend on the ize of the meaurer, which i filled with the cheee ma. However, at three producer examined the weight of cheee were imilar and they amounted to the average (n = 70) of 786 ± 5.2 g, length 22.0 ± 0.3 cm, and the diameter wa 9.0 ± 0.2 cm. Milk yield for cheee wa 7.6 l/kg of cheee or 6.0 l/ocypek of about 800 g. From the moment the cheee i formed to the moment of ale the content of water drop by 12% (Table 2). Table 2. Weight of cheee (n = 70) during proceing from forming to elling Forming Salting Drying Smoking For ale Weight (g) Weight lo The colour of ocypek that are ready for ale range from light yellow to dark orange. The colour depend on the type of wood that wa burnt in the hepherd' hut. Cheee from variou producer differed in platicity, but regular hole in the cro-ection were preent in the cheee coming from all the producer. Ocypek' tate i lightly our, piquant, alty and characteritic for moked product. Cheee from variou hepherd' hut differ in their content of water, fat and acidity. The mot table element of the cheee i the content of alt and protein (Table 3). Table 3. Chemical content of cheee-ocypek (modified from Paciorek and Dro_d_, 1997) Item Mean Shepherd' hut Water content Fat content Fat in dry matter Protein content Soluble nitrogen compound Salt x x x x x x a a Mean. 113

5 Standard error. a Value followed by the ame letter differ ignificantly. The mot changeable element of ocypek are fat and water, which i an evidence of dicrepancie in technologie applied in particular producer, a well a of different cheee toring time before ale. Fat content in dry matter i 31.3% on average and it increae during the eaon. The cheee fat content can be increaed with the ue of a cheee-making harp knife and a harp for cutting the curd, but the hepherd ue a wooden device which beat the curd and thi i why a coniderable part of fat remain in the whey. The mot table element of ocypek i protein (29%). The table alt content i 2.77% on average. A mall amount of oluble nitrogen compound were preent in ocypek, which indicate their low ripene (Table 3). Titration acidity range widely from 30 to 53 SH and average ph value of cheee i 5.33 (Table 4). Table 4. Titration acidity and ph of tudied cheee Item Mean Shepherd' hut Titration acidity ( SH) ph x x a a a a 0.11 Mean. Standard error. a Value followed by the ame letter differ ignificantly. Microbiological analye of the cheee produced in the hepherd' hut did not contain neither Literia monocytogene, nor Salmonella p. The E. coli titre wa relatively high, from 0.1 to 0.01 and in ome cheee the Staphylococi coagulae poitive were found. Fatty acid content analyi howed the highet amount of palmitic, oleic and tearic acid. Concluion In Poland ocypek i the mot popular product coming from the Tatra region and it i regarded a a ymbol of the hepherd' culture of our mountain. Thi i why it name and a traditional production technology hould be protected. The creation of a quality tandard, obligation to mark the cheee and improvement of the hygiene tandard hall allow to maintain it production. Thi time-conuming product which i like craft in it nature offer employment to a particular group of people in a difficult mountain condition. The protection of regional technologie and a variety of foodtuff i an evidence of repecting the tradition and the difference among the region, which were haped by both the nature and hitory. Reference Dro_d_, A. (1985). Milkong heep in Poland. Sheep Dairy New, 2: 1-4. Ledda, A. (1986). Valorizzazione tecnologica della traformazione del latte di pecora e di capra e ue propettive. L' Italia Agricola, 123(1): Maui, K. and Yamada, T. (1996). French Cheee. Polih ed. Wiedza i _ycie SA, Warzawa Paciorek, A. and Dro_d_, A. (1997). Ocena jako_ci erów ozczypków produkowanych na Podhalu. _ywno, Technologia, Jako, 4(13): Pettinau, M., Nuovoli, G., Podda, F. and Ledda, A. (1977). Influenza del metodo di preparazione del caglio di agnello ulla conervazione delle ue proprieta' coagulanti, proteolitiche e lipolitiche. Scienza e Tecnica Lattiero-Caearia, 28(2):

6 Roeiro de Bivar, M.L. (1991). Ewe' milk cheeemaking in Portugal. Sheep Dairy New, 8(2):