GETTING TO KNOW GRANA PADANO

Transcription

1 GETTING TO KNOW GRANA PADANO

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4 Page 4 INTRODUCTION Page 8 1. GRANA PADANO CHEESE Definition Area of origin Characteristics The production method Packaging Page GRANA PADANO: GOOD FOR YOUR HEALTH Page FROM ITS ORIGINS TO PDO STATUS Page THE MARKS Marks of origin Marks of selection Guarantee marks Page A PRODUCT WITH PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN How the PDO works Production specifications Checks The PDO logo Page GRANA CAN ONLY BE PADANO 2

5 Page AGEING TIME OF GRANA PADANO (PDO) The characteristics of Grana Padano cheese Grana Padano (PDO) Grana Padano (PDO) Oltre 16 Mesi ( Over 16 Months ) Grana Padano (PDO) Riserva - Oltre 20 Mesi ( Over 20 Months ) Page TASTING AND VISUAL NOTES Page CULINARY USE, SUGGESTED PAIRINGS AND INTERESTING FACTS Grana Padano (PDO) Grana Padano (PDO) Oltre 16 Mesi ( Over 16 Months ) Grana Padano (PDO) Riserva - Oltre 20 Mesi ( Over 20 Months ) Grana Padano (PDO): Interesting Facts Page CUTTING AND STORING 3

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7 The idea of classifying Grana Padano (PDO) according to specific ageing criteria is certainly positive. A useful move, in line with the policy of providing the consumer with more information and to use a current expression better traceability. Admittedly, cheese with different grades of ageing has always been available; however, ageing differences, important in terms of flavour and aroma, were not officially recognised. People had to rely on the experience and the possibly subjective advice of the retailer or buyer. Now, however, this information will be instantly recognisable a reason of great satisfaction! The ageing agenda is not merely intended to relieve producers of their responsibility to ensure complete product transparency: it has a merit which extends to another aspect of the market, which we will briefly explain below. Nowadays, consumers are increasingly well-informed and they demand improved food quality. However, a proper definition of quality is still elusive. It includes principles of health and hygiene, flavour, aroma and texture, technology, accessibility and traceability. These principles are not mutually exclusive and in fact, if taken individually, they do not always give an overall idea of quality. For a hard cheese, the requisite period of time for it to reach perfection is not a secondary criterion: it is an essential aspect of its quality. Anyone using Grana Padano (PDO) purely for culinary purposes tends to give less weight to information of this kind. 5

8 Yet those who think of Grana Padano (PDO) as a food to be savoured in its own right served at the end of a meal or to accompany an aperitif or as a snack pay great attention to the age of the cheese. This has been difficult so far, due to the lack of information and differentiation in the product. As a result, Grana Padano (PDO) has been mainly used in cooking. The plan to classify the product in relation to how long it has been aged heralds new developments. Gourmet consumers will come to the fore, and others are likely to follow their example. Those who buy the most exclusive mature cheese, like the Grana Padano Riserva Over 20 months, will not be enormous crowds, but they will certainly be sophisticated, curious consumers willing to spend a little bit extra. It is precisely those consumers who will ensure that Grana Padano (PDO) will be freed from the label of cooking cheese which has not done justice to the great improvements made to this cheese over recent years. Piero Sardo President of the non-profit Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity 6

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10 GRANA PADANO CHEESE

11 DEFINITION The Protected Designation of Origin of GRANA PADANO defines the production area, method and characteristics of a cheese produced all year round from raw cow s milk, partially skimmed by allowing the cream to rise naturally. The consistency is hard, the cheese matures slowly and can be used as part of a cheese board or as a grating cheese. AREA OF ORIGIN Grana Padano (PDO) is produced and grated in the provinces of Alessandria, Asti, Biella, Cuneo, Novara, Turin, Verbania, Vercelli, Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona, Lecco, Lodi, Mantua (to the left of the Po), Milan, Monza, Pavia, Sondrio, Varese, Trento, Padua, Rovigo, Treviso, Venice, Verona, Vicenza, Bologna (to the right of the Reno), Ferrara, Forlì, Cesena, Piacenza, Ravenna and Rimini. 9

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13 Area of production of Grana Padano (PDO).

14 CHARACTERISTICS When ready for sale, the cheese has the following characteristics: - shape: cylindrical, wheel shaped, circumference rind slightly convex or almost straight, flat bases slightly rimmed; - diameter of wheel: cm; - height of rind: cm; - weight: kg; - rind: hard and smooth, 4-8 mm thick; - texture: hard, with a finely grained structure, radial fracture into flakes, eyes hardly visible; - fat content of dry substance: minimum 32%; - rind colour: dark or natural golden yellow; - colour: white or straw-yellow; - aroma: fragrant; - flavour: delicate. Apart from the typical characteristics of GRANA PADANO (PDO), the grated variety must have the following characteristics: - moisture: not less than 25% and not higher than 35%; - appearance: not powdery, even, particles with a diameter of less than 0.5 mm not more than 25%; - quantity of rind: not higher than 18%. 12

15 PRODUCTION METHOD Raw milk, from cows milked twice daily, is used to produce GRANA PADANO (PDO). The basic diet of the cows consists of green or preserved fodder. The milk used can be either from a single milking or mixed from two milkings after it has been left to stand and cream naturally. The use of milk from two milkings of which only one batch has been left to rest and cream naturally is also permitted. The milk has to be partially skimmed by allowing the cream to rise naturally and cannot undergo any physical, mechanical or thermal treatment which could change its status as raw natural milk. The milk is then placed into cauldrons, shaped like upturned bells and made from copper or with a copper lining. Coagulation is obtained using calf s rennet, after a natural whey starter has been added. The curd is broken into fine grains and heated until the grains become elastic at a maximum temperature of 56 C. Once the cooking time is over, the curd is left fully immersed in whey, in the same cauldron, for up to 70 minutes. 13

16 14 It is then placed in special cheese moulds for at least 48 hours. These impress the marks of origin, before the cheese is placed in brine for between 14 and 30 days. Natural ageing takes place in an environment kept at a constant temperature between 15 and 22 C for nine months from the moulding phase. Experts then test the cheese, after which it is fire-branded with the Grana Padano (PDO) trademark. If, however, the cheese does not meet the specified standards, the marks of origin impressed by the moulds will be removed so that the product cannot be sold as Grana Padano (PDO).

17 PACKAGING GRANA PADANO (PDO) of any shape or type, either in portions or grated, with or without the rind, can only be packaged with the Protected Designation of Origin and the distinctive logo, by companies authorised by the Consorzio per la tutela del Formaggio Grana Padano (Grana Padano Cheese Protection Consortium). There are two distinct types of authorisation one for wedges with rind, and the other for the grated product. Any packaged product which has no rind (tiny pieces, rindless slices, slivers and the like) is classified as grated product and is subject to the relevant regulations. Grating must take place within the zone of production of GRANA PADANO (PDO). The cheese must be packaged immediately, without any further treatment or the addition of any other substances. Authorisation for pre-packaging is not required only in the case of pre-wrapped products, in other words if the portion is prepared in the store. 15

18 GRANA PADANO (PDO): GOOD FOR YOUR HEALTH

19 What makes Grana Padano a complete food which is healthy for children, teenagers, pregnant women, sportspersons and the elderly, is its excellent ratio of energy value to the quality and quantity of nutrients. As it is a semi-fat cheese, its calorie value is lower than that of many commonly-eaten foods which contain far fewer nutrients. Grana Padano is an excellent natural food, and can provide many of the substances needed by the human body. HIGH PROTEIN CONTENT Grana Padano is rich in quality proteins. It is an important source of amino acids which help the body s regenerative functions, especially the muscles. These milk proteins are highly concentrated and nutritionally enhanced: 60 g of cheese contain the same nutritional property as one litre of milk. 100 g of Grana Padano compare to more than 160 g of beef. 17

20 MINERAL SALTS Apart from the iodine content (essential for the thyroid), selenium to combat free radicals, magnesium for proper bone growth and to stimulate nerves and muscles, phosphorus to aid brain activity and strengthen bones and teeth, Grana Padano is an important source of calcium a vitally important substance as it is essential for nervous conduction, muscular contraction and cellular permeability. VITAMINS Grana Padano is a source of Vitamin B12: just think that 50 g provide more than 75% of an adult s daily requirement. Interesting for anyone following a vegetarian diet. It also provides an important percentage of daily requirements of Vitamins A and B2. FATS: FEW, BUT GOOD ONES More than 30% of the fats contained in Grana Padano are unsaturated, i.e. the type which is useful to the human body. Cholesterol is low, just 70 mg per 50 g of product. 18

21 HIGHLY DIGESTIBLE, RAPIDLY ASSIMILATED Thanks to the ageing process, 20% of the proteins become free amino acids which stimulate the activity of digestive enzymes. Grana Padano is, moreover, lactose-free which means it can be consumed by people with an intolerance to this milk sugar. PRINCIPAL NUTRIENTS FOUND IN 50 G OF GRANA PADANO (PDO) TOTAL PROTEINS 16.5 g SELENIUM 6 µg SOLUBLE PHOSPHOPEPTIDES 0.75 g IODINE 18 µg TOTAL FREE AMINO ACIDS 3 g VITAMIN A 112 µg FATS 14 g VITAMIN B1 8.5 µg CONJUGATED LINOLEIC ACIDS 85 mg VITAMIN B2 180 µg CALCIUM 600 mg VITAMIN B6 60 µg PHOSPHORUS 346 mg CALCIUM/PHOSPHORUS RATIO 1.7 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.8 g POTASSIUM 60 mg MAGNESIUM 31.5 mg ZINC 5.5 mg IRON 70 µg COPPER 250 µg VITAMIN B12 1.2µg VITAMIN D µg VITAMIN PP 1.5 µg VITAMIN E 103 µg PANTOTHENIC ACID 123 µg CHOLINE 10 mg BIOTIN 3 mg 50 g of Grana Padano provides no fewer than 600 mg of calcium equal to 60% of the daily requirement for adults and the elderly, 50% of an adolescent s requirements, and 43% of the amount needed by a pregnant or breastfeeding woman. 19

22 FROM ITS ORIGINS TO PDO STATUS

23 In the countryside around the River Po, shortly after 1000 AD, hunger was widespread and cattle-breeding was certainly not as flourishing as it is today. In these conditions, it was essential not to waste any of the meagre food products so laboriously obtained from land or cattle. The monks who farmed the plains around the Po at that time wondered how they could preserve the milk they did not drink the same day. The only solution was to transform it into cheese, but not easily perishable fresh cheese. The result was a long-ripened hard cheese. One historical theory is that the grana cheese of the Po plains was created in 1135, at the Abbey of Chiaravalle. What is certain is that it was produced in many monasteries, in special cauldrons. These were the first dairies and the monks were the first dairymen, experts in cheese making. The monks called it caseus vetus old cheese. But ordinary people were not familiar with Latin and gave it another name, taken from the special characteristics of the grainy texture. This gave rise to the name formaggio di grana, or simply grana. Each province of the area produced its own grana and the most commonly known forms of grana were the lodesano or lodigiano (which many consider to be the oldest), the milanese, the parmigiano, the piacentino and the mantovano. 21

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25 The cheese immediately became highly valued and very popular. In 1504, Isabella d Este gave the lords of Ferrara, her father Alfonso and brother Ferdinando half a wheel each, because the special nature of this cheese is its goodness not its quantity. The cheese might have come from the countryside around the river Mincio: where field clover was knee-deep ( alto fino al zenochio ), and was so highly prized that in 1525 the servant of the Gonzaga family struggled to find eight good cheeses matured for three years ( peze octo de formazo beletissime quale avevano tri ani ) which had been promised to the King of Spain. The following three centuries brought no major technological developments. According to the studies by Luigi Cattaneo, the first dairies were opened after 1837, while the Unification of Italy brought improvements to dairy farming, as meadows began to be sown and the first scientific institutes were founded. The real breakthrough in cheese production came a hundred years later on 1 June 1951, in Stresa, where European cheese makers and dairy farmers signed a convention that laid down specific rules regarding the naming of cheeses and the descriptions of their characteristics. The cheeses named on that occasion included Grana Lodigiano, which later became Grana Padano, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. 23

26 However, it was not until 10 April 1954 that Italy introduced certain regulations regarding the protection of the designation of origin and type of cheeses, including Grana Padano. On 18 June 1954, through the initiative of Federlatte (the Italian Federation of Cooperative Dairies) and Assolatte (the Italian Association of Cheese and Dairy Industries), the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Grana Padano (Grana Padano Cheese Protection Consortium) was established, bringing together all the producers, cheese ripeners and retailers of the cheese. On 30 October 1955, Presidential Decree no was issued, regarding the designations concerning the production methods, characteristics and areas of provenance of cheeses, including Grana Padano. By the interministerial decree of 23 March 1957, the Consortium was assigned the task of supervising the production and sale of cheese with the Grana Padano designation of origin. 24

27 The European Commission awarded Grana Padano its PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status on 12 June 1996 (Regulation no. 1107) when the EC system of protected designations of origin came into force. Thereafter, the Italian Ministry of Farming, Food and Forestry Policy appointed the Consortium to oversee the protection, promotion and price control of the Grana Padano (PDO), and guiding consumer information and the wider interest of the product. The Consortium also helps supervise, protect and safeguard the PDO. 25

28 THE MARKS

29 Protected Designation of Origin GRANA PADANO cheese is distinguished and characterised by a series of distinct marks, which are divided into: marks of origin and marks of selection. These two types of marks have different functions and they are also distinguished by the methods by which they are applied onto the cheese wheel and by the producers that apply them. 27

30 THE MARKS OF ORIGIN THE MARK OF ORIGIN certifies the origin of the product. This mark is cold-pressed onto the whole cheese wheels by the individual dairy. It includes the following elements: - THE CASEIN PLATE: this is inserted at the base of the wheel when moulding the cheese. It becomes one with the cheese rind, and bears the phrase GRANA PADANO, the identification codes of the cheese wheel, which guarantee product traceability, and the wording GUARANTEED by MIPAAF (Italian Ministry of Farming, Food and Forestry Policy) pursuant to art.10 of Regulation (EC) 510/2006; - THE FOUR-LEAFED CLOVER: this is impressed onto the cheese wheel at its "birth", when the curd is pressed into the cheese mould. This marking certifies the origin of the cheese wheel and contains the abbreviation of the province and the serial number of the cheese dairy that produced the cheese, in addition to the PDO marking; - THE DASHED DIAMOND-SHAPED SYMBOLS: these are also impressed onto the cheese by the cheese mould, and bear the alternating words PADANO and GRANA, repeated around the whole circumference of the cheese wheel in order to identify GRANA PADANO even when sold in pieces; - INDICATION OF THE MONTH AND YEAR OF PRODUCTION; - THE CE MARK: this is impressed by the cheese mould onto the cheese wheel to identify, for health-related purposes, the production facility where the cheese was produced. 28

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32 THE MARKS OF SELECTION THE MARK OF SELECTION certifies the verified compliance of the cheese with the production specifications, thereby legitimising the use of the GRANA PADANO (PDO) designation and guaranteeing the quality of the product. The GRANA PADANO fire-branded mark certifies that cheese wheels qualify as authentic GRANA PADANO. This fire-branded mark is applied under the supervision of Consortium technicians, after the authorised control body has performed all the checks prescribed under the Production Specifications, on cheese wheels that have aged for nine months. Without this mark, the cheese cannot be designated or marketed as GRANA PADANO. This means that the afore-mentioned mark also has to be reproduced and displayed on the packaging of cut and grated GRANA PADANO cheese. The GRANA PADANO trademark was created and patented by the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Grana Padano (Grana Padano Cheese Protection Consortium) and is registered at the Bureau International pour la Protection de la Propriété Industrielle in Bern. To ensure that exclusive rights are protected, it is also deposited in Italy and foreign countries, either as a collective trademark or certification or guarantee mark, in accordance with the laws in force in the respective countries. This mark was also included in the product specifications submitted to Brussels for the purposes of obtaining the Protected Designation of Origin status for GRANA PADANO cheese. It is therefore an official symbol certifying compliance with the requirements that legitimise the use of this designation. 30

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34 The RISERVA mark: this is a second fire-branded mark applied to the cheese wheels at the request of the producers, using the same method as that for the GRANA PADANO fire-branded mark. It distinguishes a cheese wheel that has aged for at least 20 months and possesses the following quality characteristics: - first grade; - grainy texture with a radial fracture into flakes; - even white or straw-yellow colour; - absence of anomalous odours; - fragrant and delicate flavour. 32

35 THE GUARANTEE MARKS The Grana Padano mark is the official mark certifying that the cheese meets the product specifications. It is owned by the Grana Padano Cheese Protection Consortium. On vacuum-packed products, this indicates that the cheese has aged for longer than the required minimum period. This is used alongside the Grana Padano (PDO) mark by producers who have made or packaged a cheese which has aged for over 20 months, and has first-rate qualities. Only cheese produced in the legally-defined region of origin in compliance with the product specifications can carry the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) mark. The month and year of production: for example MAG 04 to indicate May Traceability of the cheese: the flat side of the wheel bears the wording GRANA PADANO together with an identification code, used to trace the cheese to the place of production. Four-leafed clover: this is impressed on the rind, and indicates the origin of the cheese. It includes the initials of the province, the dairy serial number and the acronym DOP (PDO Protected Designation of Origin). Small diamonds: these are impressed on the entire circumference of the rind, alternately stating the words GRANA and PADANO, to identify the cheese even when portioned and sold in pieces. CE MARK: this is impressed on the rind. It identifies the place of production and offers consumers the best guarantee of the origin of the cheese and the methods used in production. 33

36 A PRODUCT WITH PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN

37 HOW THE PDO WORKS The designations of origin recognised and protected by the European Union refer to agricultural or food products originating in specific, carefully identified areas. The qualities and characteristics of these products are essentially or exclusively due to their provenance, on account of environmental factors or production methods based on the skill and experience of the local people. These products can be produced or processed only within the defined geographical area. Registered designations are protected against: a) any direct or indirect commercial use of a registered designation for products not covered by the registration, such as unregistered products comparable to the products registered under that designation, or if the use of the designation exploits the reputation of the protected designation; b) any misuse, imitation or reference, even if the true origin of the product is indicated or the protected designation is in translation or is accompanied by expressions such as genre, type, method, in the style of, imitation or the like; c) any other false or misleading indication as to the provenance, origin, nature or essential qualities of the product on the inner or outer packaging, in advertising material or in documents relating to the product concerned, or the presentation of the product in a container which is liable to convey a false impression as to its origin; d) any other practice liable to mislead the consumer as to the true origin of the product. 35

38 PRODUCTION SPECIFICATIONS In order to benefit from protected designation of origin (PDO) status, an agricultural or food product must comply with regulations that specify among other things: - the extent of the geographical area of origin; - the facts which prove that the agricultural or food product originates from the defined zone; - the description of how the agricultural product is obtained, as well as information about the conditioning; - the principal physical qualities of the product and its flavour, aroma and texture. THE CHECKS The Italian authority responsible for regulating PDO products and coordinating controls is the Ministry for Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy. Before the product is launched onto the market, checks on compliance with standards are conducted by a control body appointed by the recognised Grana Padano Cheese Protection Consortium, authorised for this purpose by a Ministerial decree. To obtain authorisation, the control body must guarantee its impartial status and must have the qualified personnel and resources necessary to fulfil its duties. The costs of checking compliance with standards are borne by the producers subject to the checks. 36

39 THE PDO LOGO Packages of GRANA PADANO cheese (in portions or grated) must bear the PDO logo. This is a label defined by the European Union to distinguish products with Protected Designation of Origin status. Reproduction of this logo certifies that the European Union has awarded Protected Designation of Origin status to GRANA PADANO cheese, under Commission Reg. (EC) 1107/96 of 12 June Thanks to this prestigious award, GRANA PADANO is now fully recognised as one of those highly-appreciated products which offer consumers a series of guarantees as to origin and production method, and which are afforded the relevant protection in each EU member state. 37

40 GRANA CAN ONLY BE PADANO

41 THE TERM GRANA IS AN INTEGRAL CHARACTERISTIC OF GRANA PADANO (PDO) The term GRANA first came into use to indicate a cheese with a grainy structure, produced in the Po Valley from the eleventh century onwards. As the reputation of this popular cheese grew, several varieties of GRANA were established (Grana Lodigiano, Emiliano, Lombardo, Veneto etc.), all grouped under the term PADANO. Following the institution of designations of origin for cheese, under law 125 of 10 April 1954, an application was made for recognition of the GRANA PADANO designation of origin. The occasional generic use of the word GRANA on its own should be considered improper and illegitimate, since the use of the word GRANA separately from the adjective PADANO is prohibited under the terms of articles 9 and 10 of the above-mentioned law 125 of 10 April Moreover, under bilateral agreements, the term GRANA is now also protected in Germany, Austria, France and Spain. 39

42 This level of protection was expressly requested when the application to be awarded the Protected Designation of Origin status was made to the EC for Grana Padano cheese. This was confirmed by Commission Regulation (EC) 1107/96, which authorised the recognition of GRANA PADANO (PDO). Consequently, the designation GRANA is also fully entitled to the protection given by art. 13 of Council Regulation (EC) 510/2006, in particular under paragraph (b), according to which registered designations are protected against «any misuse, imitation or evocation, even if the true origin of the product is indicated or if the protected name is translated or accompanied by an expression such as style, type, method, 'as produced in', 'imitation' or similar». In essence, the term GRANA is an integral and characterising part of the Protected Designation of Origin GRANA PADANO and cannot therefore under any circumstances be used separately from the adjective PADANO, or with reference to any cheese other than the one legally entitled to use the full designation. 40

43 This important principle has also been authoritatively confirmed in a recent ruling of the Court of First Instance of the European Communities (dated 12 September 2007, case no. T-291/03). The unlawful or illegitimate use of the word GRANA in generic terms, and separately from the adjective PADANO, is prohibited by the relevant national authorities, while the Grana Padano Cheese Protection Consortium also intervenes in order to ensure protection outside the EU, by instructing local lawyers to take legal proceedings in countries where there are instances of the illegal use of the term GRANA. 41

44 AGEING TIME OF GRANA PADANO (PDO)

45 THE CHARACTERISTICS OF GRANA PADANO CHEESE During the ageing process, the cheese wheels are constantly checked. They are also brushed and turned once every fifteen days. After nine months, the cheese is checked by experts with proven experience and specifically trained for this purpose, in order to ensure that it has the qualities required by the production specifications. If the tests are positive, the cheese is fire-branded with the typical diamond-shaped GRANA PADANO trademark. This is the official mark which certifies that the cheese complies with the requirements of the PDO label. However, if the tests show that the product does not meet the standards required, the marks of origin pressed by the cheese moulds will be deleted, either by crossing out with a series of Xs or by whitening out. 43

46 Packages of portioned or grated GRANA PADANO must bear after authorisation from the Grana Padano Cheese Protection Consortium the famous diamond-shaped mark (in black on a yellow background) as a guarantee to the consumer that the cheese has been firebranded and is entitled to carry the GRANA PADANO (PDO) label. GRANA PADANO (PDO) GRANA PADANO (PDO) (identified by the yellow diamond) is aged between 9 and 16 months. Although visibly grainy, this cheese is mellow on the palate because the proteolysis is not yet advanced, and has a mild and delicate overall flavour. In fact its flavour and aroma can be described as being similar to cream and butter. These characteristics make Grana Padano (PDO) highly recommendable as part of a cheese board. 44

47 GRANA PADANO (PDO) Oltre 16 Mesi ( Over 16 Months ) Cheese packaged with this logo is left to age in the maturing cellars for over 16 months. This characteristic denotes a product which lends itself to grating, while being superb as part of a cheese board. It has a grainy texture and fractures into flakes, a characteristic which is accentuated the longer the cheese matures. This is because of the continual reduction in moisture and the advanced proteolysis which gives the cheese its distinct savoury flavour, not too strong, with a fragrance and aroma reminiscent of nuts and hay. Cheese aged for this length of time is typically crunchy to the bite, due to the crystals of calcium lactate which form the white specks visible in the grainy structure. 45

48 GRANA PADANO (PDO) RISERVA Oltre 20 Mesi ( Over 20 Months ) In order to qualify as a RISERVA Oltre 20 Mesi ( Over 20 Months ), a wheel of Grana Padano cheese must have been aged for at least 20 months in the production area, and must have the following quality characteristics: - first grade; - evidently grainy in texture with a radial fracture into flakes; - even white or straw-yellow colour; - free from abnormal odour; - fragrant and delicate flavour. These characteristics are certified by a special fire-branded mark, applied by the Consortium after a second testing by experts, requested by the cheese producer. This is a particularly high quality cheese with a double guarantee. Only cheese wheels bearing this second fire-branded mark can be marketed with the logo RISERVA Oltre 20 Mesi ( Over 20 months ). This is a new label which represents an extra guarantee, aimed at the discerning consumer with a sophisticated approach to food who loves the typical flavour of Grana Padano (PDO), distinctive yet never overpowering. 46

49 GRANA PADANO (PDO) GRANA PADANO (PDO) Oltre 16 Mesi ( Over 16 Months ) GRANA PADANO (PDO) RISERVA Oltre 20 Mesi ( Over 20 Months ) 47

50 TASTING AND VISUAL NOTES

51 A peculiarity of Grana Padano (PDO) is that its taste, colour and texture can change, depending on the ageing time. Below is a brief descriptions of the sensory changes, according to the age of the Grana Padano cheese being sampled. VISUAL DESCRIPTORS PARAMETER Age (months) 9 16 over 20 COLOUR White (even) Tending to straw-yellow Straw-yellow PRESENCE OF CALCIUM LACTATE CRYSTALS (white specks which make the cheese crunchy) Absent More frequent near the rind than in centre of the cheese wheel Present uniformly throughout the wheel PRESENCE OF TYROSINE CRYSTALS (pure amino acid - bitter-tasting whitish specks which can be isolated by crumbling cheese gently between fingers) Absent Present near the rind of the cheese wheel Present uniformly throughout the wheel EASE OF OBTAINING A RADIAL FRACTURE IN FLAKES ON SCRAPING Not very noticeable Noticeable Very pronounced GRAININESS Not excessive Noticeable Apparent TASTE DESCRIPTORS PARAMETER Age (months) 9 16 over 20 MILDNESS Very pronounced Present Slight FLAVOUR STRENGTH Limited Good Very pronounced 49

52 As the ageing time progresses, the flavour of Grana Padano becomes more intense as a result of the increased content of glutamic acid. OLFACTORY DESCRIPTORS Between 9 and 12 months of ageing, the flavour is clean and not very complex, as the notes of milk and cream persist. Between 16 and 18 months, the hint of milk and cream is accompanied by notes of butter, hay and corn (a pleasantly floral aroma, sometimes reminiscent of olive brine), with a hint of meat broth. For cheese aged over 20 months, the dominant flavours are of butter, hay and a clear note of dried or toasted nuts. The hint of meat broth is more intense. MECHANICAL DESCRIPTORS PARAMETER Age (months) 9 16 over 20 ELASTICITY Very pronounced Present Slight ADHESIVENESS Very pronounced Present Slight CRUMBLINESS Slight Present Very pronounced SOLUBILITY Slight Present Very pronounced 50

53 SENSORY ANALYSIS MECHANICAL DESCRIPTORS ELASTICITY: the degree to which a material regains its original shape after being stretched. How to test: the substance is pressed between the teeth (solids) or between the tongue and palate (semi-solids) and then released, and the speed and degree to which the substance regains its original form is assessed. ADHESIVENESS: the effort needed for the tongue to remove food stuck to the palate or the teeth. How to test: rinse the mouth with water just before each test, as saliva affects the level of adhesiveness. Chew the sample several times (4 to 8 times depending on salivation), then press it against the palate and measure the force needed to remove the sample completely from the palate and teeth. CRUMBLINESS: the tendency for the sample to break into many fragments on chewing. How to test: bite the sample with the molars, 2 to 4 times, and assess the increase in the number of fragments produced before they dissolve in the saliva. SOLUBILITY: the sensation produced when the sample dissolves very quickly into the saliva. How to test: place the whole sample into the mouth, chew 2 to 4 times with the molars, then assess the speed at which all or part of the pieces dissolve into the saliva. 51

54 CULINARY USES, SUGGESTED PAIRINGS AND INTERESTING FACTS

55 GRANA PADANO (PDO) Ageing for this length of time results in a cheese which is quite versatile.it is particularly suited to sprinkling on oven-baked dishes or gratins. The water content slowly evaporates, and the aqueous vapour created forms a protective 'dome' which delays caramelization or other reactions (known in the trade as Maillard reactions ), so that the dish is evenly and thoroughly cooked. Grana Padano of this age is the mildest and most delicate. It is perfect as an appetizer or served in slivers in a salad of valerian leaves, celery, walnuts and apple; or flaked over carpaccio of cold meats or salami, on salads of artichokes, porcini or ovoli mushrooms cut into thin slices so that the flavours blend harmoniously. Excellent with young, fresh, white wines that contain fruity notes without being overpowering. GRANA PADANO (PDO) OLTRE 16 MESI ( OVER 16 MONTHS ) When using Grana Padano in the preparation of stuffed meat, vegetable or omelette dishes, it is best to choose the variety aged for over 16 months. Its flavour, although distinctive, does not dominate over the other ingredients but binds and balances the different flavours without losing its own particular taste and fragrance. In addition, this type of cheese, thanks to its medium strength and the speed at which it melts (because of the lower water content and higher concentration of fats), is excellent for preparing crunchy gallettes, fillings, crostini, pizza and focaccia. 53

56 Considering the characteristics of this cheese, the ideal wine should be slightly tannic, therefore a perfect pairing would be a fairly intense, persistent red wine, preferably a young one with plenty of fresh fruit and a little complexity. GRANA PADANO (PDO) OLTRE 20 MESI ( OVER 20 MONTHS ) Grana Padano Riserva Over 20 months is the ideal grating cheese for pasta, soups and minestrone, as its characteristics enhance the dish and bring out the flavour. Grana Padano Riserva Over 20 Months is also excellent in dishes prepared with traditional balsamic vinegar. The fine aromas of the cheese evaporate quickly on contact with the air, and are compensated by the penetrating, persistent and intense aroma of the vinegar. It is ideal when paired with salami or charcuterie, in preparing soufflés or fondues, or to add creaminess to tasty risottos. The wine served with RISERVA should be capable of countering the distinctive dominance of the cheese. It should be mellow, tannic, with a high alcohol content, intense and persistent. Pairings of choice include dessert or liqueur wines, because of the contrasting aromas and flavours. These wines soften the distinctive taste and restore balance and harmony to the palate. 54

57 GRANA PADANO (PDO), INTERESTING FACTS Did you know? It takes 15 litres of good quality milk to make 1 kg of Grana Padano; each cauldron contains 1000 litres of milk (1 tonne) and produces only two cheese wheels; 30 g of Grana Padano (PDO) contain the same nutritional properties as half a litre of milk; Grana Padano has a high protein content: 100 g of Grana Padano (PDO) compare to more than 160 g of beef; the average cholesterol content found in 50 g of Grana Padano (PDO) is only 70 mg; 50 g of Grana Padano (PDO) supply 60% of the daily calcium requirement of an adult. 55

58 CUTTING AND STORING

59 - Using a special teardrop-shaped cheese knife, gently cut a line along the diameter of the wheel and along the sides of the rind. Turn the wheel upside down and continue to trace the line on the other side. - Using the hooked part of the special knife for cutting the rind, make a 1 cm-deep incision in the rind, along the length of the line cut previously. Insert the full length of the long-bladed knife into the centre of the line cut into the top, and insert teardrop knife in one corner. - Then insert a second teardrop knife (or use the crust knife) diagonally into the opposite corner, taking the handle to a horizontal position. - Remove all three knives, turn the wheel upside down and repeat. - Remove all the knives and insert two knives into the top of the wheel, on both sides. Push one knife forward and the second in the opposite direction, to divide the wheel in half.

60 UTENSILS - Teardrop-shaped cheese knife. For all uses: cutting the rind, breaking the rind and the wheel, dividing the wedges and breaking up the cheese into smaller pieces. - The hooked knife is used to cut the rind. - Long-bladed cheese knife. This is a long, tapered knife with a squared end, which is inserted into the whole wheel or into large wedges to break them more easily. 58

61 HOW TO STORE GRANA PADANO Store in the fridge, at between 4 and 8 C, away from other cheese. Wrap in clingfilm. Remove from the fridge and unwrap your Grana Padano one hour before serving, to allow it to breathe and reach the right temperature. 59

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