Flat Fish. Freshwater

Transcription

1 8 Introduction 10 White Fish 90 Oily Fish 146 Flat Fish 190 Freshwater Fish 234 Seafood 286 Techniques 306 Glossary 308 Index

2 wh i t e fi s h a n g l e r fi s h co d 12, , d o gfi s h 14, gre y mullet grouper hake 17, huss 18, , , j o h n d o ry m o n k fi s h 19, , red mullet 21, s co r p i o n fi s h sea bass 23, sea bream whitebait 2 Seafood 3 Seafood 24, , , 76 79

3 Sea Bass Branzino, Spigola Dicentrarchus labrax Average weight range: 450 g 2 kg (10 oz 3 lbs) Average length: cm (14 40 inches) Recipes on pages Often compared to sea bream in texture and flavour, sea bass has a dense covering of small scales, a gleaming silver back, and a well-deserved reputation for producing sweet, white, flaky fillets. It is caught wild in waters from the south coast of England and Ireland through to the Mediterranean when it is considered at its best during the summer months. As with many other fish and shellfish, there is a minimum size that is allowed to be caught. It is also farmed throughout the Mediterranean, particularly Greece. The aquaculture (farming) of this fish makes it readily available, but good alternatives include sea bream, red mullet, and grouper. It is sold both filleted and whole at the fishmonger. If filleted, it is usually unnecessary to remove the skin as this is quite fine once it has been scaled. If whole, the fish needs to be trimmed of its sharp fins, especially along the back (dorsal) fin, and then scaled. The technique can be a messy business and it's best to ask your fishmonger to do it, but an effective method is to hold the fish below the level of a sink of cold water this prevents scales from escaping around the kitchen. Once scaled, it should be gutted and the gills removed. It can then be filleted if necessary. Sea bass can be pan-fried, grilled, roasted or wrapped in parchment ready for baking. Wrapped in a couple of layers of foil, it is excellent for the barbecue and takes little time. Traditional recipes for bass include the very simple Spigola al forno (page 81) and Branzino alla Carciofi (Baked with artichokes, page 83). mackerel Sgombro Scomber scombrus Average weight range: 300 g 2 kg (10 oz 3 lbs) Average length: cm (28 35 inches) Recipes on pages With a stream-lined, bullet shaped body, iridescent shine, rainbow hues along its flanks, and scribble markings across its back, freshly-caught mackerel is a sight to behold. Best eaten very fresh, anyone who has had the good fortune to catch these will know it has unbeatable delicate flavour and creamy texture when straight out of the water. As the fish loses its initial freshness, the flavour becomes stronger and more pronounced. Like tuna and bonito, mackerel are caught in huge shoals in northern and southern European waters and off the northeastern coast of the United States. There are sustainability concerns about fish caught by large trawler the best choice is those that have been caught by hook and line. Alternative options include herring and pilchards (which are large sardines). Mackerel are available year round but are best during the summer. Avoid them during spring months as the fish will be producing roe (eggs) and the flesh can be disappointing. They are sold whole and gutted and in fillets. If buying whole, ensure that the gills and blood line (found running close to the backbone) are removed as both of these give a bitter taste that can taint the flavour of the fish. It can be filleted and pin-boned before cooking, but as it has a fine skin, this is usually left on. It is best grilled or roasted, either whole or in fillets. A single fillet will take less than 4 minutes under the grill and as it is quite thin, it does not require turning during cooking. It is naturally partnered with gooseberries, but also chilli and soy sauce. In Liguria, it is traditionally pan-fried with olive oil, garlic, and parsley and served with peas in a tomato sauce. 4 White Fish 5 Mackerel

4 Marinato orata fette MARINATED SEA BREAM SLICES Serves 4 Preparation time: 20 mins + 3 hrs marinating Cooking time: 6 8 mins page 288 page 289 juice of 3 lemons, strained 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 mint sprig, finely chopped 1 thyme sprig, finely chopped 1 oregano sprig, finely chopped 1 flat-leaf parsley sprig, finely chopped 5 tablespoons olive oil 4 sea bream fillets Combine the lemon juice, garlic, mint, thyme, oregano, parsley, lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a dish. Add the fish, turning to coat, and let marinate in a cool place for 3 hours. Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan or skillet. Drain the fish, reserving the marinade, and add them to the pan. Cook over high heat for 3 4 minutes, then sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the reserved marinade. Gently turn over and cook for another 3 4 minutes. Season lightly with salt and pepper and carefully transfer the fish to a serving dish using a fish slice (spatula). Serve immediately. 6 White Fish 7 Seafood

5 Dentice al sale SEA BREAM BAKED IN A SALT CRUST Serves 6 Preparation time: 15 min Cooking time: 45 mins page kg ( 3¼ lb) sea bream, scaled and cleaned 1.8 kg (4 lb) coarse sea salt olive oil, for drizzling juice of 1 lemon, strained Preheat the oven to 200 C/400 F/Gas Mark 6. Season the cavity of the fish with salt and pepper. Line a roasting tin with a sheet of foil, sprinkle 400 g (14 oz) of the sea salt on the base and place the fish on top. Cover it completely with the remaining salt and bake for about 45 minutes, allowing 15 minutes per 500 g ( 1 lb 2 oz). Remove the tin from the oven, break the salt crust and lift out the fish. Remove and discard the skin, place the fish on a warm serving dish and drizzle with olive oil and the lemon juice. Branzino al forno con carciofi BAKED SEA BASS WITH ARTICHOKES Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 min Cooking time: 35 mins page 288 olive oil, for brushing 2 garlic cloves, halved g (1 lb) seabass, cleaned and filleted 100 ml (scant ½ cup) dry white wine juice of ½ lemon, strained 5 baby globe artichokes, trimmed and sliced chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/Gas Mark 4 and brush an ovenproof dish with oil. Put the halved garlic cloves into the cavity of the fish and season inside and out with salt and pepper. Put the fish into the prepared dish and bake for about 5 minutes, then remove from the oven and sprinkle with the wine. Return the fish to the oven and bake for 10 minutes more. Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to a boil, add the lemon juice and a pinch of salt, then add the artichokes and cook for 5 10 minutes, then drain. Remove the fish from the oven, add the artichokes, return to the oven and cook for an additional minutes. Remove from the oven, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve immediately, straight from the dish. Recipes: Oily Fish 8 Seafood 9 White Fish

6 Gnocchi alle cozze e zafferano Gnocchi with mussels and saffron Serves 4 Preparation time: 1 hr 10 mins Cooking time: mins page 295 For the gnocchi: 1 kg (2¼ lb) potatoes, peeled and cut into 3.5 cm (1½-inch) chunks g (1 1¾ cups) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting 1 egg, lightly beaten salt choice of sauce, warmed to serve For the sauce: 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 clove garlic 250 g (9 oz) shelled mussels 350 g (12 oz) tomato flesh saffron chopped fresh parsley Steam the potatoes for 25 minutes, or until tender, then mash with a potato masher or press through a potato ricer while they are still hot. Stir in the flour, egg, and a pinch of salt and knead to a soft, elastic dough. Be careful with the ratio of potato to flour: if there is too much flour, the gnocchi will be hard; if there is too much potato, they tend to falling apart while cooking. Taste a little to make sure there is enough salt. If not, work in a little with your hands. Shape the dough into long rolls just over 1.5 cm ( inch) in diameter and cut into 2-cm (¾-inch) lengths. Using the floured thumb of one hand, press each gnocchi to make a dimple in the center, then gently roll them against the face of a fine grater to make a pattern on the underside of the gnocchi. Place in a single layer on a dish towel dusted with flour. For the sauce, heat the oil in a saucepan, add the garlic clove and cook briefly to flavour the oil, remove and discard the garlic. Add the mussels and tomato flesh and cook for about 10 minutes. Dissolve the saffron in a little lukewarm water and add to the saucepan. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle in the chopped parsley, and remove from the heat. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil, add the gnocchi, a few at a time, and remove with a slotted spoon as they rise to the surface. Do not overcook or they will fall apart. Drain well and add the sauce. Serve. Recipes: Oily Fish 10 Seafood 11 Seafood

7 Zuppa di pesce del pirata PIRATE S STEW Serves 6 Preparation time: 45 mins Cooking time: mins page 288 page red (bell) pepper, seeded and sliced 1 green (bell) pepper, seeded and sliced 2 dried chillies, crumbled 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 bunch fresh mixed herbs, such as marjoram, thyme, basil, sage and chives, chopped 200 ml (scant 1 cup) olive oil 200 ml (scant 1 cup) red wine 300 g (11 oz) octopuses, cleaned 300 g (11 oz) cuttlefish, cleaned and halved if large 300 g (11 oz) musky or curled octopuses, cleaned 300 g (11 oz) octopuses, cleaned 100 ml (scant 1 cup) white rum 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) live mussels, scrubbed and beards removed 300 g (11 oz) clams, scrubbed pinch of freshly grated nutmeg (optional) Put the peppers, chillies, garlic, herbs, olive oil, and wine in a flameproof casserole and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add the octopuses and cuttlefish and simmer for 20 minutes, then add the musky or curled octopuses and rum and cook for 10 minutes more. Meanwhile, scrub the mussels and clams under cold running water and pull off the beards from the mussels. Discard any with broken shells or that do not shut immediately when sharply tapped, then add to the casserole, stir well, cover and cook for 5 10 minutes, until the shells have opened. Discard any that remain shut. Season with salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle with nutmeg, if using, and serve immediately. 12 Seafood 13 Seafood

8 Trimming, Scaling, and Gutting a Round Fish Filleting a Round Fish 1. To trim the fish, using scissors to carefully cut from the tail towards the head and remove all the fins around the body. 2. To scale the fish, use a scaler or the back of a knife to stroke acoss from tail to head. Take care to brush along the back and belly of the fish as this will be the point of entry with the knife for both gutting and filleting. 3. To gut the fish, lay it on its back and cut the throat of the fish. This will give a point of exit for the knife when gutting. 1. To release the fillet, use a sharp filleting knife and insert the blade at an angle into the head. Cut through and discard. 2. With a knife flat, stroke the knife along one side of the backbone. Cut over the rib cage and out the other side of the fish. Using stroke, sweeping cuts of the knife, continue to the tail end to release the whole fillet. 3. Turn the fish over and repeat on the other side. Support the fish with your free hand and be sure to keep the knife flat. Pinboning a Fillet 4. Release the gills with the top of the knife, then slip your fingers under the gills to pull away. Take care as they can be sharp. 5. To cut the fish, insert the point of a filleting knife at the anal vent (small hole the way down the fish). 6. Run the knife along the belly of the fish to the gills. If needed, support the back of the fish with your free hand. Lift out and discard the entrails. 1. Use your finger to feel for the pin bone tips sticking out of the fillet. Use tweezers or needlenose pliers to grab the tips. 2. Pull the pin bones out along the fillet of the fish. 14 Techniques 15 Filleting a round fish

9 Serves 4 Preparation time: 1 hr (including cooling) Cooking time: 1 hr page kg / 3¼ lb octopus 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 1 clove garlic, coarsely chopped 1 hot fresh red chilli, de-seeded and coarsely chopped 5 tablespoons olive oil juice of 1 lemon, strained salt Salmone Salmonidae Average weight range: kg (8 10 lb) Average length: 70 cm (27½ ) Recipes on pages XX XX 2 Seafood 4 Seafood 6 Oily Fish Unico Soleidae Average weight range: 1.5 kg (3 lb) Average length: 70 cm (27½") Recipes on pages XX XX 3 Seafood 7 Sole flat fish Insalata di polpo OctOpus salad If the octopus has not already been cleaned and tenderized, turn the body inside out and pull away the innards and the stiff strips that stick to the sides. Cut off the stomach sac. Rinse the octopus thoroughly under cold running water and turn the body right-side out. Press out the beak and its soft surrounding tissue from the centre of the tentacles and cut it out. Finally, beat well with a meat mallet. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the octopus and bay leaf and cook for about 1 hour, testing with a fork to check whether it is tender. Remove the pan from the heat, discard the bay leaf and leave the octopus to cool in the water. When cold, remove it from the pan, peel away and discard the skin, then chop the octopus into pieces and put them into a serving dish. Put the parsley, garlic, chilli, olive oil, lemon juice and a pinch of salt into a blender and blend until thoroughly combined. Pour the dressing over the octopus and serve. skate 148, sole 149, turbot 150, Fish: Recipes from the Sea presents more than 200 simple and authentic Italian recipes for fish and seafood dishes from the Silver Spoon kitchen. Encouraging, accessible, and approachable, the book demystifies the process of choosing, preparing, and cooking all kinds of fish and seafood with clear, step-by-step instructions. It includes advice on how to substitute alternatives to help make the most of sustainably-caught fish that s local to you. Clear, simple, and definitive, it is the ultimate companion to cooking with fish. From a classic Fisherman s Stew to Linguine with Clam Sauce to a Baked Salmon Pie, Fish shows beginner and experienced cooks how easy it can be to make simple, nutritious dishes with fresh fish and seafood. Note: Octopus works very well in salads. It can also be dressed simply with a drizzle of olive oil, or with vinegar, lemon, spices, salt and pepper. Binding: Hardback Format: mm, 10 7 inches Extent: 312pp Number of images: 135 Word count: 40,000 ISBN: Publication date: February 2012 Salmon Often compared to sea bream in texture and flavor sea bass has a dense covering of small scales and gleaming silver back and a well deserved reputation for its fine eating qualities producing sweet, white, flaky fillets. It is caught wild in waters from the South Coast of England and Ireland through to the Mediterranean when it is considered at its best during the summer months. As with many other fish and shellfish, there is a minimum size that is allowed to be caught. It is also farmed throughout the Mediterranean, particularly Greece. The aquaculture (farming) of this fish makes it readily available, but good alternatives include sea bream, red mullet and grouper. It is sold both filleted and whole at the fishmonger. If filleted it is usually unnecessary to remove the skin as this is quite fine having been scaled. If whole the fish needs to be trimmed of its sharp fins, especially along the back (dorsal) fin and then scaled. Scaling is essential as these are thick and intrusive. The technique can be a messy business and an effective method is to hold the fish below the level of a sink of cold water, this prevents scales from escaping around the kitchen. Once scaled it is the gutted and the gills removed. It can then be filleted if necessary. Sea bass can be pan-fried, grilled, roasted or wrapped in parchment ready for baking. Wrapped in a couple of layers of foil, it is excellent for the barbecue and takes little time. Traditional recipes for bass include the very simple Spigola al forno (page XXX) and Branzino alla Carciofi (Baked with artichokes, page XXX). Sole With a stream-lined, bullet shaped body, irridescent shine and rainbow hues along its flanks and scribble markings across its back, freshly caught mackerel is a sight to behold. Best eaten very fresh, anyone who has had the good fortune to catch these will know it has unbeatable delicate flavour and creamy texture when straight out of the water. As the fish loses its initial freshness the flavour becomes stronger and more pronounced. Like tuna and bonito, mackerel are caught in huge shoals in northern and southern European waters. The Italians believe that those caught in the Tyrrhenian sea are the finest of all. There are sustainability concerns about fish caught by large trawler, the best choice is those that have been caught by hook and line. Alternative options include herring and pilchards (large sardines). Mackerel are available year round but are there best during the summer. They are are best avoided during spring months as the fish will be producing roe and the flesh can be disappointing. They are sold whole and gutted and in fillets. If buying whole ensure that the gills and blood line (found running close to the backbone) are removed as both of these give a bitter taste that can taint the flavour of the fish. It can be filleted and pin-boned before cooking, but as it has a fine skin, this is usually left on. Phaidon Press Limited Regent s Wharf All Saints Street London N1 9PA Phaidon Press Inc. 180 Varick Street New York, NY Phaidon Press Limited