A Uniquely Tuscan Style Regardless of Grape Variety

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1 A Uniquely Tuscan Style Regardless of Grape Variety From Wine Spectator magazine, December 15, 1998 issue March 13, 2006 December 15, 1998 A Uniquely Tuscan Style Regardless of Grape Variety Advertisement A common personality emerges in our largest tasting ever of Italian wines By James Suckling Carlo Ferrini, a well-respected consulting enologist in Tuscany, looked slightly annoyed as he described how the region's indigenous grape, Sangiovese, appeared to be taking a back seat to such international varieties as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in gaining the attention of wine connoisseurs around the world. "It is a genuine dilemma for us," Ferrini said during a dinner with three other wine producers at the one-star restaurant La Tenda Rosa in Cerbaia as we drank a silky 1990 Chianti Classico riserva. "Should we simply gain quick recognition through using international varietals, or should we focus our energy on Sangiovese, which is a uniquely Italian grape but takes much more effort to achieve good results?" There was a minute of silence while the rest of the diners thought about his question. Then Francesco Ricasoli, the owner of Castello di Brolio and whose family created the original blend for Chianti Classico, vocalized what seemed to be the general view of the rest of us at the table. "We should not just keep to tradition and make only Sangiovese," he said. "Of course, Sangiovese is a variety, like Pinot Noir, which is almost impossible to duplicate in other wine-producing regions of the world, and it produces superb wines in Tuscany, but if Tuscany can be successful with other grape types then we must also make wines from them." In most cases, a uniquely Tuscan style emerges in the top wines of the region regardless of their grape type, according to my tasting results over the last 15 years. Wine producers from Rufina to Montalcino can produce top-class reds and good whites from such traditional varietals as Sangiovese and Trebbiano as well as global

2 ones such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. For example, Tuscan Merlots and Cabernets have a special character that few if any wines from Bordeaux or Napa Valley can replicate. They have a distinctive freshness and liveliness due to their high acidity levels, even when alcohol reaches nearly 14 percent. The multifaceted success of Tuscan winemaking was more than evident this summer when I reviewed more than 700 wines during more than two months of blind tastings across the region. What's currently on the market in both the red and white categories is very good to outstanding in quality, particularly the wines from the western coast of Tuscany in the area of the Maremma, extending south of the city of Livorno to the border of Latium. Appellations such as Bolgheri, home to Sassicaia and Ornellaia, and Morellino di Scansano, where Fattoria Le Pupille rules, made some of the most exciting wines of my tasting. From powerful Merlots to succulent Sangioveses and a few delicious Sauvignons and Chardonnays, this area of Tuscany is back in form after a number of weak vintages since In addition, I found many exciting reds from Montalcino and Chianti, Sangiovese-based wines as well as super Tuscans. Expect to pay more for Tuscan wines. Based on a review of U.S. retail prices for wines in my report, prices increased about 15 percent on average. Most Chianti producers increased their prices by about 10 percent, while Brunellos and Vino Nobile wines went up about 20 percent. The biggest single increase came from the highly regarded Chianti Classico producer Castello di Ama, whose 1995s will arrive in January with prices up to three times those of its '94s. The Ama '95 Merlot, L'Apparita, is expected to cost about $200 a bottle--making it one of Italy's most expensive wines--while the single-vineyard versions of Chianti Classico should cost about $140. The least expensive wines will be the simple Sangioveses, mostly '96s and '97s, with appellations such as Toscana Indicazione Geografica Tipica. They should sell for $8 to $10 a bottle. This all said, however, don't get confused with the '95 vintage, which comprises a large number of the wines in my tasting. For most of Tuscany, this was an extremely good to outstanding vintage, but it was not the across-the-board success story seen in Bordeaux. Quality in '95 was more variable in Tuscany than it was in Bordeaux due to Tuscany's comparatively less consistent and rather cool and wet grape-growing season that year. Vineyards near Montalcino and Bolgheri may have been the exception, but for most others, including Chianti Classico, '95 could have been an extremely weak vintage had it not been for summerlike weather in late September and October. In fact, a large number of the '95 wines I tasted showed little qualitative difference from those produced in '96, though the '95s may have a slightly greater concentration of fruit. The growing season in '96 was plagued by cooler-than-normal weather, although it had less precipitation than did '95. The best '96s, mostly super Tuscan reds

3 and a few Chiantis, are marked by their wonderful aromas, racy tannins and silky texture. They are the type of subtle, elegant wines that Europe produces best. By comparison, the first '97s to hit the market are everything except full of finesse. The best reds are bold, high-pitched wines that ooze with superripe fruit. They illustrate what's exciting about this wellpublicized vintage. The top-name wines won't be on the market for another year or two. Nonetheless, celebrate the superb potential of the vintage by getting your hands on some 1997 Morellino di Scansano from Le Pupille (89 points, $12) or 1997 Mazzei Tenuta di Belguardo (88, $NA). At a little more than a ten-spot per bottle, these two Sangioveses are packed to the cork with vivid berry and earth aromas and flavors and mouth-caressing, silky tannins. This vintage also delivered the best dry white that I have ever tasted from Tuscany, Ornellaia's Poggio alle Gazze 1997 (91, $24), which is a zingy and flavor-packed Sauvignon that will give any Sancerre or New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc a run for its money. Most other dry whites from '97 that I tasted were a little heavy and lacking in acidity compared to their '96 counterparts. Unfortunately, when I had dinner with Ferrini and company I hadn't finished my tastings, so I didn't have more information to make better points about the current situation with Tuscan winemaking. Nevertheless, everyone at the dinner seemed to agree that the region has only partially fulfilled its potential for producing world-class wines. Yet, the results of my annual review of Tuscan wines this year suggests that the region has gone further in making outstanding wines than many people--even Tuscan wine producers themselves--may realize. Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino There's good news for people who love red wines from the vineyards surrounding the hilltop town of Montalcino. The area's most recently released reds--primarily 1993 Brunellos and 1996 Rossos--are generally very good to outstanding in quality. I was particularly delighted with the '93 Brunellos I tasted, which are the best released since the glorious 1990 vintage. Although the '93s do not have the staying power and richness of the '90s, most show a lovely harmony between well-ripened fruit and tannins and fresh acidities. They definitely are not blockbuster, full-throttle Brunellos like those produced in 1990 or 1985; they are more in line with the '88s, although slightly less concentrated. Some Brunello producers liken '93 to 1982 or Niccolo d'afflitto, a key consulting enologist in Tuscany and head winemaker for Frescobaldi's Castelgiocondo and other wines, called the vintage classic in style but slightly rough and tannic. "They need age," he said. "They are a little austere and not that easy to like for many people. But I love the style personally." I am equally fond of the '93s' racy style, but I don't think they need much aging--especially because

4 they are serious food wines. Most can be consumed a year or two from now although they will improve for another 8 to 12 years in the cellar. Producers of Brunello have always said that '93 was a very good vintage despite some problems with the weather. Wine producers in Tuscany often say the region of Montalcino nearly always gets the best weather, and this was certainly the case in '93. All of Tuscany had a superbly warm and relatively dry spring and summer, but wet weather in late September and Octo-ber dashed hopes for an outstanding year. Montalcino's slightly warmer weather, superior drainage and earlier harvest gave better results than in other regions. I found 14 of the 67 Brunellos I tasted worthy of outstanding scores. I gave three of them 91 points each: Altesino Montosoli, Eredi Fuligni Vigneti dei Cottimelli and Soldera Case Basse. All three of these '93 Brunellos had slightly greater concentration of fruit and tannins, as well as more complex flavors, than had their fellows in the tasting. The fact that the highest score I gave in this category was 91 points underlines that the vintage overall is just outstanding; in better vintages such as 1990 and 1988, I gave higher scores. The '96 Rosso di Montalcinos are of extremely good quality, but aren't at the same level as last year's outstanding 1995s. The '96s are drink-me-now reds, with character and style similar to that of currently released regular bottlings of Chianti. A few '96 Rossos gave a little bit more fruit and structure; my top three are Eredi Fuligni Ginestreto Vigneti dei Cottimelli (89, $26), Silvio Nardi (88, $12) and Siro Pacenti (88, $20). The Fuligni is particularly impressive due to its intriguing aromatic qualities of raspberries, berries and flowers. "I always try to emphasize the subtle character in my wines, giving them wonderful aromas and excellent finesse," said Roberto Guerrini, a law professor who manages the tiny Fuligni estate for his family. "The 1993 Brunello and 1996 Rosso are much better than I thought. I am really impressed with their freshness." The United States has become the No. 1 export market for the wines of Montalcino. Prices for the current vintages of Brunello and Rosso are expected to be about 10 to 20 percent higher than those for the greatly inferior 1992 Brunellos and the slightly better 1995 Rossos, and production of both types is up from those two vintages. For example, the total production of Brunello in 1993 was about 350,000 cases, with about 85 percent in regular bottlings and the rest in riserva (which will be released next year). Vino Nobile AND Other Montepulciano Wines It's amazing what a very good quality vintage can do for a wine area. When I tasted a range of wines from the vineyards of Montepulciano last year (mostly 1994s and 1993s), I was slightly disappointed by the inconsistent quality and shortage of serious wines. This year, it's a different story. I found plenty of very good to outstanding wines, both

5 Vino Nobiles and super Tuscan reds. Producers in the region admit that America has not caught on to the Sangioveses of Montepulciano like they have Montalcino and Chianti. However, this could be to our advantage because the top wines of Montepulciano are usually two-thirds to half the price of the best Brunellos or Chianti Classicos. "This is rather annoying for the producers of our region," admitted Alamanno Contucci, president of the wine producers association in Montepulciano and head of the winery bearing his surname. "Our wines are equally as good as the other regions' **in Tuscany**, but we are less known." This may soon change, however. Not only are more and more of Montelpul-ciano's grape-growers beginning to produce and bottle their own wines, some of the big names in Tuscan wine such as Antinori and Ruffino have bought properties there in the last six to eight years, seeing great potential in the region. Piero Antinori, head of his family firm based in Florence, believes the region will be able to make some of the best-priced, highest-quality wines due to the possibility of mechanized cultivation. "This will enable us to produce relatively inexpensive, very high quality wines," he said a few years ago in an interview. His estate, La Braccesca, bottled its first Merlot in 1996; it's nearly outstanding in quality at 89 points. My top wines this year from Montepulciano are Poderi Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigna del Nocio 1995 (91, $37), Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigna Asinone 1995(90, $NA) and Avignonesi Grifi 1995 (90, $45), a Cabernet Sauvignon. The last has always been one of the top super Tuscan reds, while Boscarelli and Poliziano have always been leaders in producing the best Sangioveses in the area. All three wines show impressive concentration of fruit and very well integrated tannins. With such outstanding structure, they deserve two or three years of bottle age before being drunk. According to Federico Carletti of Poliziano, the '95 vintage was always highly rated by wine producers in his area. "There's not much to say--the grapes that were picked were in near-perfect condition," he said this summer. My tasting of the '95s bears out his statement. You can't go wrong--with a few exceptions--in buying a bottle of '95 Vino Nobile. The '97 Rosso di Montepulcianos are also of good quality, but a word of caution. Although they are less costly, many Rosso di Montepulcianos seem like second-class Vino Nobiles-- which they may be as producers often downgrade less-good Vino Nobile to Rosso. In most cases, it might be better to spend more and buy Vino Nobile. Producers in the area also make Chianti Colli Senesi, but I didn't taste many of them and they are usually fairly weak in quality. The vineyards of Montepulciano encompass about 4,300 acres, of which about 2,400 acres are destined for Vino Nobile wines and

6 about 620 for Rosso di Montepulciano. Wine producers can also make Chianti Colli Senesi (about 1,360 acres), but currently many of the top names are in favor of incorporating this into Rosso production or another appellation. "We don't need a Chianti," said Paolo Solini, director of the wine producers association. "We should make a wine unique to Montepulciano. Let them make Chianti in Greve or Castellare." Chianti and Chianti Riserva There'll be no problem finding good to outstanding bottles of Chianti this year. The '96 regular and '95 riservas, with a few '94s and '93s, are now on the market, and there's no shortage of tasty wines. However, let's get one thing straight from the outset. People speak about 1995 as if it were one of the best vintages for Chianti in a long time. Indeed, it is a very good vintage, but it is not outstanding and is only slightly better than either 1994 or I recommend buying your Chianti according to the name of the producer and not by the vintage. With the exception of 1997, wine producers of Chianti have had some pretty tricky vintages due to variable weather. Those wineries that could best adapt their cultivation and winemaking techniques to the weather conditions produced the best wines. "Recent vintages, including 1995, were not as easy as many people think," said Ferrini. "Making serious wine all depended on how you worked in the vineyard and the cellars. Serious wine producers made serious wines." The best Chiantis I tasted this year were from the names that usually have received high scores in these pages in past tastings. Year in and year out, these producers are prepared to do what must be done to make the best possible wines. The top '95 Chiantis from my tastings are all either single-vineyard wines or riservas: San Felice Chianti Classico Poggio Rosso Riserva 1995 (91, $30), Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Vigneto Bellavista 1995 (90, $140), Felsina Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva 1995 (90, $32), Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva 1995 (90, $28), Fontodi Chianti Classico Vigna del Sorbo Riserva 1995 (90, $42), Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 1995 (90, $16), Riecine Chianti Classico Riserva 1995 (90, $35) and Poggerino Chianti Classico Bugialla Riserva 1995 (90, $50). "The 1995 vintage was just a perfect year for us," said Sean O'Callaghan, the Irish winemaker for the tiny American-owned wine estate of Riecine in Chianti Classico. "From the moment we picked the grapes we knew that we had something very special." Chianti producers were always less enthusiastic about '96 than about '95. Leonardo Bellacini, winemaker for San Felice, was also enthusiastic about '95 for his top wines, but said that '96, too, had its good points. "I think that our lesser wines are better in '96 than '95," he said. "The grapes in '96 were slightly thinner-skinned so the wines were less rich. But they made beautiful young Chianti."

7 I found a handful of '96 Chiantis that are very close to outstanding in quality; one actually did receive 90 points. The single outstanding Chianti came from Marchesi de' Frescobaldi, the Florence-based wine firm: Its single-vineyard Chianti Rufina Montesodi showed a wonderful richness of fruit and ripe tannins and also lovely harmony and subtlety. Other top '96s included: Fontodi Chianti Classico (89, $18), Riecine Chianti Classico (89, $20), Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico (88, $16), Felsina Chianti Classico (88, $17), La Massa Chianti Classico (88, $13), Poggerino Chianti Classico (88, $22) and Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico (88, $15). Comparing my scores of '95 Chianti riserva and '96 Chianti normale brings out an important point for consumers. In general, the difference in price between single-vineyard and riserva Chianti, normally $25 to $50 a bottle, and Chianti normale, usually $10 to $20 a bottle, is not justified. In most instances in this year's tasting, I gave the riservas only a few points more than the normales. (Some received fewer points, due to poor maturation methods in certain wineries.) Granted, I have nearly always found that reserve bottlings of Chianti will age longer than normal ones, but if you want the best Chianti for your buck, I recommend buying the regular bottlings from the '96 vintage and any '95s that are still on the market. Super Tuscan Reds Regardless of what they are officially called--vini da tavola, indicazione geografica tipica or Bolgheri DOC--super Tuscan reds remain the most exciting part of any comprehensive tasting of Tuscan wines. This year's offering provides just about every possible red wine type--from sleek Sangioveses to voluptuous Merlots to flamboyant blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. There are dozens of outstanding-quality reds out there. In all, I tasted slightly more than 200 super Tuscan reds, primarily from the '95 and '96 vintages, and I found 45 that merited scores of 90 points or more. That's about one out of every five bottles. Again, I can't generalize about vintages and say that '95 is clearly better than '96. Perhaps the '95s are slightly fruitier and rounder than the '96s, which emphasize aromatic qualities and fine tannins, but you can't lose with either one. The best strategy for choosing great super Tuscan reds is to buy by the name or style of the wine. That means buy '95 Sassicaia (90, $95) if you like the classy character of Sassicaia's red, or buy '93 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di S. Niccolo' (92, $37) if you prefer refined Sangiovese. You should also try to find a few bottles or cases of some of the wonderful super Tuscan reds from lesser-known estates. In addition, seek out some of the newer wines now on the market. For instance, the '96 Solengo (95, $52) from Brunello-producing Argiano is only the second vintage of this exotic red, and it continues to amaze with its flashy fruit and stylish tannins. This should be the next collector's red from Tuscany and is already doubling in price in Italy after its

8 release. Two other stunning reds are the '95 Merlot from Ornellaia, Masseto (95, $150), and the '96 Bordeaux blend from Castello dei Rampolla, Vigna d'alceo (95, $NA). I scored them classic for their concentration of mouthfilling ripe fruit and round, velvety tannins. The Vigna d'alceo is a new wine from Rampolla, made from mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a dash of Petit Verdot. I have been criticized by some people in the past for often preferring Tuscan reds made from international varietals over those made from Sangiovese, but the fact is that most producers who used Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah in the '95 and '96 vintages (Brunellos exempted) made better wines. "These varietals are earlier ripening than Sangiovese so it can be much easier in some vintages to harvest them at much riper levels," said Luca Sanjust, well-known artist and manager of his family's small estate, Fattoria Petrolo. "The '95 and '96 vintages had their problems, and the Merlot ripened better than the Sangiovese in most instances," he said. Sanjust recently began making a top-notch Merlot, Galatrona. The '95 is his second effort and it scored an outstanding 90 points. Of the outstanding super Tuscan reds in my tasting, 17 were made from either all or mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. If you love Cab, you must try these wines. Other than Rampolla's '96 Vigna d'alceo and Argiano's '96 Solengo (Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah), my two other favorite Cabs were Col d'orcia's 1994 Olmaia (94, $43) and Tua Rita's 1996 Giusto di Notri (91, $50). These chewy and delicious Cabernets (Giusto di Notri also included Merlot in the blend) have loads of juicy character and caressing tannins. Merlots were also a joy to taste and the grape variety is becoming more and more popular for boosting the quality of Chiantis and other Sangioveses. Besides Ornellaia's Masseto, the tiny-production Merlot from newcomer Tua Rita, 1996 Redigaffi (93, $70), is a knockout, overflowing with superripe fruit flavors. It's like a supercharged St.- Emilion. A number of blends were equally inspiring this year. All were mostly Sangiovese, but the addition of Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah improved their overall quality. I was impressed with the Castello Banfi Summus 1995 (93, $45), Luce della Vite 1995 (93, $63), Agricola Querciabella Camartina 1994 (93, $45), Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco 1995 (93, $NA) and Gagliole 1995 (92, $33). The Luce and Gagliole are particularly noteworthy as the former proves that the new blend from wine families Mondavi and Frescobaldi is not just a marketing exercise, and the Gagliole is a serious wine from a new producer in Chianti Classico. Pure Sangiovese wines did not go unnoticed in my tasting. Three were solid, outstanding wines receiving 92 points: Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di S. Niccolo' 1993 ($37), Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 1995 ($50) and Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 1995 ($68). Klaus Rimitz, son-in-law of the owner and manager of the estate of

9 Montevertine, admitted that the '95 Sangioveses did not have the power of other top wines in the vintage. "But they are classic wines, sleek and attractive," he said. "The '95 Le Pergole Torte is one of the best we have ever made." Rimitz is not the only Tuscan producer to make their best-ever Sangiovese. Each year, almost regardless of the quality of the vintage, many wineries continue to improve their cultivation and winemaking methods, meaning better wines all around. The renaissance of Tuscan winemaking continues. Vino Bianco The revitalization of winemaking in Tuscany appears to finally be filtering down to the region's whites. For years, I have almost dreaded the thought of tasting a range of Tuscan whites, which tended to be boring and insipid. This year, however, I found a handful of wines that can stand up to some of the best from France and the New World. It's difficult to say exactly why more serious whites are coming out of the region now. I do know that some winemakers in Tuscany have brought in outside help to hone their skills in the vineyard and cellar. For instance, Lodovico Antinori, owner of Ornellaia, tried for more than a decade to make a Sauvignon that compared to the best of the Loire Valley, but it wasn't until he brought in a vineyard specialist from New Zealand that he neared his goal. His 1997 Poggio Alle Gazze (91, $24) is to Tuscany what Cloudy Bay is to New Zealand. It may be the best Sauvignon in Italy. "We focused so much of our energy in making red wine that our white suffered," admitted Antinori. "But I finally decided it was time to do something about our white and it didn't take long to achieve good results." Another reason for improvement could be the age of the vines. "We have had Chardonnay growing in our vineyards for a number of years," said Emanuela Stucci Prinetti, one of the family members behind the well-known Chianti Classico estate of Badia a Coltibuono. "But the vines needed the right amount of age to give us the right concentration of fruit and character in our wine." Her '96 Badia a Coltibuono Chardonnay, Sella del Boscone (90, $18), is as subtle and fine as a top village Puligny-Montrachet. Other producers in my tasting with outstanding whites included Isole e Olena and Tenuta del Terriccio, with their '96 Chardonnays-- Collezione de Marchi (90, $25) and Saluccio (90, $NA), respectively. More Chardonnays to look for: Fattoria di Manzano Podere Fontarca 1997 (89, $35), Castello Banfi Fontanelle 1996 (89, $18) and Fattoria di Felsina I Sistri 1996 (89, $23). James Suckling's Top-Scoring Wines From Tuscany

10 WINE / SCORE / PRICE RED ARGIANO Toscana Solengo 1996 / 95 / $52 Exotic, complex berry, violet, aromas. Full-bodied, tannic, but the tannins are coated in ripe fruit. Extended finish with even more fruit. TENUTA DELL'ORNELLAIA Toscana Masseto 1995 / 95 / $150 Massive, but with a great backbone of acidity. Intense aromas of blackberry, olive and herbs, with hints of the sea. Full-bodied, tannic. CASTELLO DEI RAMPOLLA Toscana Vigna d'alceo 1996 / 95 / $NA Superbly structured. Aromas of black currant, lead pencil and mint. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish of ripe fruit and spearmint. ARGIANO Solengo 1995 / 94 / $50 Full-blown, with exuberant fruit and wood character. Soft and long, full-bodied, very velvety in texture. COL D'ORCIA Cabernet Olmaia 1994 / 94 / $43 Inky-colored, with a powerful currant, lead pencil and tar bouquet. Full-bodied, with full, well-polished tannins, an extended finish. CASTELLO BANFI Toscana Summus 1995 / 93 / $45 Intense blackberry character with hints of wet earth. Full-bodied, with full, tart tannins yet a sweet, fruity aftertaste. LUCE Toscana 1995 / 93 / $63 Crushed berry and milk chocolate aromas. Medium-bodied, polished, with ultrafine tannins and a long finish. PODERE POGGIO SCALETTE Toscana Il Carbonaione 1995 / 93 / $55 Soft and fruity. Full-bodied, oozing with fresh raspberry and blackberry flavors. Tannins are big, soft and velvety. Long aftertaste. AGRICOLA QUERCIABELLA Toscana Camartina 1994 / 93 / $45 Massive super Tuscan, though slightly coarse. California Cab-like. Full-bodied, with full, velvety tannins and masses of fruit. Long, slightly austere finish. CASTELLO DEI RAMPOLLA Toscana Sammarco 1995 / 93 / $NA Big, juicy and voluptuous. Intense aromas, loads of concentrated fruit and velvety tannins. Full-bodied, with a long finish. TUA RITA Toscana Redigaffi 1996 / 93 / $70 Well-crafted, full-bodied, with polished tannins and a long mint, berry and cherry finish.

11 WHITE TENUTA DELL'ORNELLAIA Sauvignon Toscana Poggio alle Gazze 1997 / 91 / $24 Subtle aromas of gooseberry, nectarine and grass. Medium-bodied, with lively acidity and a long, grassy-fruity finish. BADIA A COLTIBUONO Chardonnay Toscana Sella del Boscone 1996 / 90 / $18 Subtle, Burgundian style. Pretty apple, earth and oak character. Medium-bodied, with fresh acidity and a creamy, appley aftertaste with a hint of straw. ISOLE E OLENA Chardonnay Toscana Collezione De Marchi 1996 / 90 / $25 Big and rich, with ripe apple and tropical fruit character and a justright dose of smoky oak. Full-bodied, with a long, flavorful finish. TENUTA DEL TERRICCIO Toscana Saluccio 1996 / 90 / $NA Beautiful aromas of pear, honeysuckle and vanilla, with hints of apple. Medium-bodied, with fresh fruit flavors and a long aftertaste. Rating Brunello Vintages / 90 / Harmonious, well-structrued, with fine tannins, fresh fruit / Drink or hold 1992 / 76 / Aromatic, light and diluted; slightly unripe / Drink 1991 / 84 / Perfumed and fruity, with fresh tannins and good structure; some diluted / Drink or hold 1990 / 98 / Super structure; powerful and ripe yet balanced / Drink or hold 1989 / 80 / Light, aromatic and fresh / Drink 1988 / 94 / Rich and harmonious, with outstanding structure / Drink or hold 1987 / 81 / Lean and aromatic, with delicate fruit / Drink 1986 / 85 / Medium weight; better than expected, with firm tannins / Drink or hold 1985 / 94 / Superripe, concentrated and powerful; some wines overdone / Drink or hold

12 1984 / 72 / Light, diluted and weak / Drink 1983 / 88 / Well rounded, with luscious fruit and good tannins / Drink 1982 / 87 / Hot year; ripe, firm and delicious / Drink 1981 / 82 / Fine and fruity, with good structure; fading / Drink 1980 / 79 / Better than expected; elegant fruit and firm tannins / Drink 1979 / 89 / Very balanced, with beautiful aromas, lovely fruit and ripe tannins / Drink 1978 / 84 / Ripe and rich, but inconsistent / Drink Vintage Ratings: , classic; 90-94, outstanding; 80-89, good to very good; 70-79, average; 60-69, below average; 50-59, poor. Drinkability: "Drink" means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; "hold" means most of the age-worthy wines have not fully matured. SOURCE: WINE SPECTATOR James Suckling's Best-Value Wines From Tuscany WINE / SCORE / PRICE RED FATTORIA MONSANTO Chianti Classico Riserva 1995 / 90 / $16 Full-bodied, rich, traditional-style, with intense autumnal character. Medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins and fresh acidity. FATTORIA LE PUPILLE Morellino di Scansano Riserva 1995 / 90 / $17 Well-crafted and elegant. Concentrated aromas of crushed blackberry and chocolate. Medium-bodied, with integrated tannins, a long, silky finish. FONTODI Chianti Classico 1996 / 89 / $18 Bright aromas of crushed raspberry and cherry. Medium-bodied, with soft, fine tannins and a sweet berry aftertaste. FATTORIA LE PUPILLE Morellino di Scansano 1997 / 89 / $12 A stylish wine, with vivid blackberry and tar aromas. Mediumbodied, with velvety tannins and mocha and berry character on the long finish. FATTORIA DI BASCIANO Chianti Rufina Riserva 1995 / 88 / $12 A racy young wine of raspberry and cherry character. Medium-

13 bodied, with fine tannins and a fresh aftertaste. FATTORIA DI BASCIANO Colli della Toscana Centrale I Pini 1996 / 88 / $11 Balanced, with silky tannins and berry, cherry and vanilla aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with a soft finish. FATTORIA DI BASCIANO Colli della Toscana Centrale Vigna Il Corto 1996 / 88 / $12 Dark-colored, with black cherry and licorice aromas. Full-bodied, with round tannins and a fruity, smoky aftertaste. CASA VINICOLA TRIACCA Chianti Classico La Madonnina Riserva 1995 / 88 / $15 Luscious. Blackberry aromas. Medium- to full-bodied, with smooth tannins and a long, fruity aftertaste. FATTORIA DI FELSINA Chianti Classico Berardenga 1996 / 88 / $17 Blackberry and cherry aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a fruity aftertaste. Lovely texture. CASTELLO DI FONTERUTOLI Toscana Poggio alla Badiola 1996 / 88 / $14 Warm and velvety, with fruity, spicy flavors that mingle on the smooth texture and linger on the finish. LA MASSA Chianti Classico 1996 / 88 / $13 Plenty of fruit concentration, with lots of blackberry and cherry. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins. SILVIO NARDI Rosso di Montalcino 1996 / 88 / $12 Well-concentrated, deep-colored, with blackberry and mineral aromas. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long finish. SELVAPIANA Chianti Rufina Riserva 1995 / 88 / $18 Lush, charged with grapey, currant and mint aromas. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a fruity finish. VILLA CALCINAIA Chianti Classico 1996 / 88 / $15 Unctuous, with aromas of raspberry and cherry, a hint of milk chocolate. Medium- to full-bodied, with ripe fruit and smooth, round tannins. CASTELLO DI VOLPAIA Chianti Classico 1996 / 88 / $16 Bright aromas of blackberry and spices. Medium-bodied, with wellintegrated tannins and a silky finish. All finesse. WHITE BADIA A COLTIBUONO Chardonnay Toscana Sella del Boscone 1996 / 90 / $18

14 Subtle, with pretty apple, earth and oak character, medium body, with fresh acidity and a creamy aftertaste. CASTELLO BANFI Chardonnay Toscana Fontanelle 1996 / 89 / $18 Offers apple, pear and vanilla aromas and flavors, with a smoky, coconut character. Of medium body, with crisp acidity and a flavorful finish. SAN FELICE Chardonnay Toscana Ancherona 1996 / 88 / $18 Subtle, with apple, cream and smoke character, developing into ripe and tropical fruit flavors. Medium in body, with moderate acidity, a long aftertaste. Rating Tuscan Red Wine Vintages / * / Super-ripe, powerful yet balanced. Greatest vintage ever?* / NYR 1996 / 87 / Racy reds with lots of perfumed fruit, fine tannins / Drink or hold 1995 / 88 / Fruity, well structured with lively acidity, long finish / Drink or hold 1994 / 86 / Aromatic, soft-textured and easy to drink / Drink or hold 1993 / 84 / Fresh, clean and perfumed; firm tannins, crisp acidity / Drink 1992 / 77 / Very light, very diluted; buy only the best names / Drink 1991 / 81 / Delicate, aromatic; fresh wines for early drinking / Drink 1990 / 98 / Concentrated, highly extracted, with firm tannins, fresh acidity / Drink or hold 1989 / 79 / Some light, pleasant wines; others very diluted / Drink 1988 / 96 / Balanced, with excellent concentration, firm acidity and fine tannins / Drink or hold 1987 / 82 / Variable quality, but some good surprises / Drink 1986 / 86 / Slightly lean but solid wines, with good fruit / Drink 1985 / 95 / Hot, superripe year; big, rich wines, with lots of fruit / Drink

15 1984 / 75 / Light, difficult vintage; most wines insipid / Drink 1983 / 88 / Pretty wines, with good intensity and backbone / Drink 1982 / 90 / Very ripe fruit, with plenty of tannins; rich, round wines / Drink 1981 / 85 / Focused fruit, firm tannins; some exceptional wines / Drink 1980 / 77 / Tricky weather for most of vintage; uneven quality; some unripe wines / Drink Vintage Ratings: , classic; 90-94, outstanding; 80-89, good to very good; 70-79, average; 60-69, below average; 50-59, poor. Drinkability: "NYR" means not yet released; "drink" means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; "hold" means most of the age-worthy wines have not fully matured. SOURCE: WINE SPECTATOR Morellino Magic When Stefano Rizzi says that he tastes the soil of his vineyards, he's not describing how one of his red wines tastes. During a visit in September, the Italian grabbed a handful of dirt from the Merlot vineyard of his Tuscan wine estate, Fattoria Le Pupille, and put it in his mouth. "This soil is sweet," he said with enthusiasm, crunching on the light brown soil. "This is beautiful soil. Anything you plant here is great. It's why our wines are so good." The wines of Le Pupille are of exceptionally good quality and are also incrediblygood values. Rizzi's standard Morellino di Scansano, a fruit bomb of a Sangiovese, in recent years has received scores in the high-80s. I gave this year's release, the 1997, 89 points. Not only was it packed with expressive fruit character ranging from blackberries to cherries, it showed a lovely, silky texture--and it sells for about 12 bucks a bottle. "We don't want our wines to be too expensive," said Rizzi, standing next to his tiny, garagelike winery, which resembles more a rickety tractor barn than a place to make wine. Wearing light brown coveralls, he looked better prepared to change the muffler of my car than to carry on with crushing the load of Sauvignon that had just arrived at the winery. "We want our wines to be drunk and enjoyed.

16 Too many wines are too expensive these days," he said. Of course, Rizzi, who runs the winery with his wife, Elizabetta (the winery is actually her family's), also makes some expensive wines at Le Pupille, particularly the super Tuscan red Saffredi. The 1995 edition of this Cabernet, Merlot and Alicante blend (91, $34) shows bold aromas of plums, blackberries, earth and tobacco and layers of velvety tannins. Le Pupille's most recently released Morellino di Scansano Riserva, the 1995 (90, $17), and sweet whites, 1995 and 1996 SolAlto (90, $13/375ml, and 91, $NA/375ml, respectively), are also outstanding wines. In all, the winery makes about 10,000 cases annually from about 75 acres of vineyards. The appellation of Morellino di Scansano, which begins 10 miles east of the coastal city of Grosseto, encompasses thousands of acres, but only about 740 acres are currently under vine. Most of that is planted to Sangiovese Grosso, locally called Morellino. The region reminds me of the central coast of California about 15 years ago with its arid, bushy landscape and rolling hills and plains. It is totally undeveloped, with just a few small villages and the occasional farm. The best vineyards are on the hillsides near the town of Magliano, although vineyards are also planted on the plains near Scansano. Besides Le Pupille, there are a few other serious producers, such as Moris Farm, but most make their wines for the local market. Recently, some of the big-name Tuscan wine companies such as Frescobaldi and Antinori have invested in the region. "We are very excited about the future of Morellino di Scansano," said Leonard Frescobaldi of Marchesi de' Frescobaldi. Filippo Mazzei, of Castello di Fonterutoli and his family wine firm, is also excited about the future of the region. In fact, Mazzei already produces a very good Morellino di Scansano under the name of Tenuta di Belguardo. I gave the 1997 Belguardo 88 points in my tasting. However, some Tuscan wine producers wonder if the big-name wine firms will simply use the wines of Morellino di Scansano for blending into their house brands. Whatever happens, Morellino di Scansano should continue to offer rich reds for reasonable prices. "I am not expecting much from the big companies," said Rizzi. "I don't think they are going to spend millions of dollars developing vineyards here when they can only sell regular Morellino di Scansano for 7,000 or 8,000 lira **$4.25 to $4.85** a bottle. This area should always make affordable wines."--j.s. New and Exciting Wines From Tuscany

17 Tuscan winemaking is in a constant state of evolution. New wines emerge as old ones change. Better laws are made as existing ones become ineffectual. Every vintage is a new experience not only in what Mother Nature has provided, but in the minds of the Tuscan winemakers. The 10 brief sketches that follow focus on some of the newest and best wines and wineries in the region, wines and producers that are now adding to the excitement and uniqueness of Tuscany. BRAVE NEW BLEND Argiano Toscana Solengo The new wine from Montalcino's Argiano--Solengo--might be the most exciting red to come out of Tuscany since the creation of Ornellaia a little more than a decade ago. Only in its second vintage (1996, 95 points, $52), this blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah wows with exotic aromas and flavors of wild berries and flowers and then seduces with fabulously polished tannins and intensely ripe fruit flavors. This isn't just another designer-wine from Tuscany. It's got breeding and soul. Solengo is produced from the vineyards of a highly respected Brunello estate owned by Noemi Marone Cinzano. The estate's wines are being fine-tuned by Giacomo Tachis, the veteran wine-guru who helped create such super Tuscan legends as Solaia and Tignanello and who honed Sassicaia to perfection. Under the eye of Tachis, Sebastiano Rosa, a young University of California Davis-trained vintner who worked at Sassicaia as well as at Château Lafite Rothschild, oversees the production of all the wines of Argiano, but he has an admitted love affair with Solengo. He says the key to the success of Solengo is keeping the grape yields down to about 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) per vine, which ensures concentrated and richly flavored wines. About 2,000 cases of Solengo are produced each year. CLASSY CABERNET SAUVIGNON Col d'orcia Cabernet Olmaia The first release of Col d'orcia's Cabernet Sauvignon, Olmaia 1990, made a splash when, in 1995, it received 96 points in these pages. The 1990 Olmaia was a superb Cab with masses of cherry, berry and mint character and ultrafine tannins, reminiscent of a top vintage of Bordeaux's legendary Château Latour. The most recent release, the 1994 Olmaia, is a worthy successor (94, $43), showing all you expect in fine Cabernet with a powerful bouquet of fruit, full body and wellpolished tannins. Olmaia currently originates from two vineyards in the estate's

18 holdings of nearly 300 acres of vines. Both vineyards, Bozzolino and Gardino Alto, were planted in 1983 with a clone of Cabernet selected from Bordeaux. The vineyards are north-south facing at an altitude of about 900 feet. Edoardo Virano, general manager of the estate, says the height of the vineyards accounts for the freshness and aromatic qualities of Olmaia, as the estate is in one of the warmest sections in the area. Currently, about 750 to 850 cases of Olmaia are produced each year, although production should double in a few years when a new vineyard comes on-line. Col d'orcia is also known for making seriously good Brunello. Virano says that he and Col d'orcia's owner, Francesco Marone Cinzano (whose sister owns Argiano), wanted to prove that they could produce a serious, international-style red wine, particularly a pure Cabernet Sauvignon. They have already achieved that goal. In Sept-ember, I tasted every vintage currently on the market and all were very good to outstanding in quality: 1994, 94; 1993, 91; 1992, 87; and 1990, 96. DREAM WINE Antico Podere Gagliole Colli della Toscana Centrale Gagliole The Tuscan wine estate of Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina is more than a break from the world of high finance and law for Thomas Bär, a Swiss man whose family owns the respected bank of Julius Bär and who is a partner in the Bär & Karrer law firm in Zurich. It represents the man's dream to make one of the top super Tuscan reds in the world. The recently released reds from the estate, 1996 and 1995 Gagliole, are outstanding wines. Made predominantly of Sangiovese, with some Cabernet Sauvignon, they are strong and well-structured. The '95 (92, $33) is particularly impressive, with wonderful aromas of roses and plums and a racy palate of fresh fruit and fine tannins. The '96 (90, $42) is equally fine but slightly less flashy in style. Production is relatively small--about 1,300 cases of each wine a year. The estate, which can trace its beginnings back more than 1,000 years ago, covers about 57 acres, with about nine of them planted to vines. Bär has no plans to enlarge the vineyard because he wishes his wine to be as exclusive as possible. When discussing the future of his winemaking, he likes to draw parallels to such wines as Tuscany's Solaia and Pomerol's Le Pin. With such high hopes and ample resources, this is definitely an estate to watch. SERIOUS PARTNERSHIP Luce Toscana Luce della Vite When two of the world's famous wine families decided to do something together in Tuscany, it seemed to be more of a marketing exercise than an effort to make great wine. Florence's Frescobaldis

19 and Napa Valley's Mondavis released their first wines--the 1993 and the 1994 Luce della Vite--last year to expensive, well-organized fanfare, but as good as these Sangiovese and Merlot blends were (90 and 89 points, respectively), they still resembled many other top super Tuscan wines already on the market. This said, the most recently released version, the 1995 Luce (93, $63), is a different story. Robert Mondavi has always spoken of sculpting his wines to perfection, and he obviously has applied some of this philosophy to the winemaking of Luce. The '95 Luce is a gorgeously proportioned red with ripe fruit and firm tannins; it's got just about everything in the right proportions. Some people may find it too slick, but I couldn't help but admire its slinky, sexy style. It is hard to think of a Tuscan wine that is better sculpted than the '95 Luce. A winery and vineyard for Luce are planned, but for the moment the wine is produced from well-established vineyards at the Frescobaldi estate in Montalcino, Castelgiocondo. The Frescobaldis made a much-admired Merlot called Lamaione before the Luce project, as well as their Brunello di Montalcino, and both are still produced. Luce, in effect, is a blend of the two whereby the technicians from both family companies select and agree on the wine--a creation process similar to that used for the early vintages of Opus One, the Mondavi-Rothschild joint-venture wine in Napa Valley. Yet, Leonardo Frescobaldi and Niccolo d'afflito, two key members of the Luce team (shareholder and winemaker, respectively), admit that the venture has taught them plenty about fine-tuning their wines. They are particularly impressed with the maturation methods of the Americans, which they say improve and refine the quality of the tannins in their wines. SUPER SAUVIGNON Tenuta dell'ornellaia Sauvignon Toscana Poggio alle Gazze Tenuta dell'ornellaia's Sauvignon, Poggio alle Gazze, is certainly not new to the Tuscan wine scene. It has been made since Ornellaia began to release its wines onto the market, in the mid-1980s. However, its current quality is something new, both for the wine estate itself and Tuscany at large. Perhaps I am overly enthusiastic about Poggio alle Gazze because it shines through the hundreds of good but rather uninteresting whites produced in Tuscany. However, there's an excitement to the current release, a A 91-point wine ($24) in my tasting, it shows plenty of Sauvignon character but in a subtle, refined way. From flavors and aromas of gooseberries, nectarines and grass, it delivers all these nuances plus a lovely balance of acidity and fruit. Ornellaia's owner, Lodovico Antinori, almost gave up on making a

20 wine similar to the great Sauvignon Blancs of France's Loire Valley, particularly the wines of producer Ladoucette. Antinori's Sauvignon was always of good quality but it lacked the vivacity and fresh character he wanted. This all changed a few years ago when Antinori enlisted a New Zealand vineyard specialist, Daniel Schuster. Schuster used the latest vineyard-management techniques to optimize the quality of the Sauvignon in Ornellaia's vineyards, most notably canopy management, which protects the grapes from the harsh sun and maintains their fine aromatic qualities. Antinori also points to the fact that the vineyards are older now and thus are producing better grapes. Plus, his high-tech cellar has been fine-tuned with better equipment and vats over the last couple of years. About 6,500 cases of the '97 Poggio alle Gazze were produced. THE ART OF WINEMAKING Fattoria Petrolo Toscana GalatronaToscana Torrione Lucia Sanjust Bazzocchi spent years in the hills outside the town of Montevarchi trying to produce decent wines at her estate, Fattoria Petrolo. Just outside the Chianti Classico zone, she had to sell most of her reds as less-than-highly regarded Chianti Colli Aretini; she had little incentive to make serious wines, as the prices they'd command would be low. The only highlight was a fine, small-production super Tuscan red called Torrione, which came from a small section of ancient Sangiovese planted in her vineyards. It all changed, however, after her son, Luca, an accomplished painter from Rome, joined her in Tuscany. Today, Petrolo not only makes the same wonderful Sangiovese, Torrione, it produces a wonderful single-vineyard Merlot called Galatrona. The first vintage of Galatrona was 1994 (91 points) and it shows a raw yet rich quality, with loads of berry, raspberry and earth character. It still needs time in the bottle. The current release, the 1995 (90, $50), is slightly less concentrated but more polished and elegant. Production is a few hundred cases yearly. Petrolo no longer produces Chianti Colli Aretini. Instead, its normal red is a Toscana Indicazione Geografica Tipica called Terre di Galatrona. A Sangiovese-based red with a touch of Merlot, this wine shows a good concentration of fruit and tannins--a far cry from the days of weak Chianti, says Luca, who now works with Sebastiano Rosa of Argiano as well as with veteran winemaker Giulio Gambelli. The 1996 Terre di Galatrona (87, $17) exhibits everything Bazzocchi promises. It's a thoroughly enjoyable Sangiovese for current drinking. About 4,200 cases were produced. SPECIAL SANGIOVESE Podere Poggio Scalette Toscana Il Carbonaione Podere Poggio Scalette's Il Carbonaione is one of the newest and

21 hottest super Tuscan reds to come out of Chianti Classico, but it's certainly no upstart. This is the personal wine of Vittorio Fiore, one of the most ubiquitous and respected consulting winemakers in Italy. It's one of a handful of wines that consistently show that Sangiovese is something very special indeed. I have never tasted anything but an outstanding wine from this estate since Il Carbonaione was first released with the 1992 vintage. The 1995 and 1996, both reviewed in this report, received 93 and 91 points (both $55), respectively. They are extremely well-honed reds with an abundance of plum, smoke and game aromas and flavors, well-integrated tannins and a peppery aftertaste. The '95 is particularly concentrated and has an impressive velvety texture. Here are my scores since Il Carbon-aione's creation: 1996, 91; 1995, 93; 1994, 90; 1993, 93; and 1992, 90. Fiore admits that the success of his wine comes largely from luck. When he and his wife, Adriana Assje di Marcora, bought their property near the town of Greve in 1991, he did not realize how special were the vines in the terraced vineyards above the farmhouse. The vines were nearly all about 60 years old and resembled clones of low-yielding, flavor-packed Sangiovese planted after World War I-- what Fiore calls Sangiovese di Lamole. The result is what you taste, he says--a concentrated, flavor-intensive Sangiovese. SIBLING RIVALRY Castello dei Rampolla Toscano Vigna d'alceo Castello dei Rampolla's Vigna d'alceo is a perfect sibling for what is already considered one of Italy's greatest reds, Sammarco. Both are wines made under the direction of brother-and-sister team Luca and Maurizia di Napoli, whose family owns the winery. The two follow closely the advice of Giacomo Tachis, who, as mentioned previously, is one of Italy's great winemakers. The '96 Vigna d'alceo (95, $NA) is an amazingly fine Bordeaux blend that reminds me of the best of Pauillac (along the lines of the seductive style of Mouton-Rothschild). Made mostly of Cabernet Sauvignon, with a good dose--about 15 percent--of Petit Verdot, the wine oozes with black currant, lead pencil and mint character. It's packed with fruit and layered with velvety tannins. It's a joy to taste now, but should greatly improve with about five or six years of bottle age. This is a vineyard-specific wine coming from a hillside site of southsoutheast exposure on property near the town of Panzano in Chianti Classico. It's a high-density vineyard with about 8,000 to 10,000 vines per hectare (2.47 acres), so yields per vine are kept to about half a kilo (1.1 pounds) of grapes. The wine is given the full Bordeaux treatment with small-barrel maturation for slightly less than a year. This said, however, the di Napolis are sensitive to not overdoing the