Inauguration Sourdough Library

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1 Inauguration Sourdough Library 15 October /11/13, Page 1 Artisan baker Chairman of the Board Maison Kayser

2 PARIS New-York Tokyo Hong-Kong Singapour Dubaï Moscou Le Levain Choice and Passion of Maison Eric Kayser By Eric Kayser Puratos Saint-Vith, Belgique Octobre 2013

3 ² The choice of the Levain The choice of the Levain «Natural» ² The choice of the liquid Levain ² The choice of the Fermentolevain ² The choice of the detail 3

4 The choice of the Levain 4

5 The choice of the Levain (1) Choice and passion ² Achievement of the baker s craftsmanship As artisan, trainer and entrepreneur to offer and transfer the best of the bakery ² Respect and promotion of ancient methods First traces of levain around 3000 BC Current revival of the true taste of traditional methods ² Unique intrinsic qualities of products made with Levain Taste, aromas, flavour, texture, appearance, etc. 5

6 The choice of the Levain (2) Choice and passion The oldest starter culture of the house Eric Kayser dates back to its creation in It is still used daily in the first bakery in Rue Monge. All the levains of Maison Eric Kayser around the world have been started from this culture. 6

eventually salt and submitted to a natural acid fermentation,

7 The choice of the Levain (3) Reminder on levain Définition The Levain is a dough made out of wheat and/ or rye flour, water, eventually salt and submitted to a natural acid fermentation, to assure the rise of the dough. Article 4 décret pain du 13/09/93 7

8 The choice of the Levain (4) Reminder on the making of the Levain Phase 1: Making of the levain-chef or mother dough Phase 2: Development and stabilization Phase 3: Usage and maintenance of the levain 8

9 The choice of the Levain (5) Reminder on the making of the Levain Phase 1: Making of the levain-chef or mother dough + Flour Water ² First fermentation of 28 to 48 hours Biochemical reaction that transforms certain organic materials under the action of enzymes secreted by microorganisms (yeasts, bacteria, fungi, mold...) Lactic fermentation: Sugars lactic acid 9

The choice of the Levain (6) Reminder on the making of the Levain Phase 1 : Making of the levain-chef or mother dough ² Natural selection of microbial flora Wild yeasts Present in the flour and

10 The choice of the Levain (6) Reminder on the making of the Levain Phase 1 : Making of the levain-chef or mother dough ² Natural selection of microbial flora Wild yeasts Present in the flour and environment responsible for the rise of the dough through the production of carbon dioxide Lactic acid bacteria Responsible of the acid fermentation with a dominance of acetic or lactic acid Depending of the characteristics of the microbial flora 10

11 The choice of the Levain (7) Reminder on the making of the Levain Phase 2: Development and stabilization ² Second fermentation of 8 to 24 hours with back-slop (Addition of nutrients: flour + water) ² Development of microbial flora ² This phase may take several days Phase 3: Usage and maintenance of the levain ² Back-slopping every 8 hours ² Maintenance of fermentation power and organoleptic qualities of the Levain 11

12 The choice of the Levain (8) The French Method Cultures Rye flour T170 Levain- Chef 500g Back-slop 1 Back-slop 2 Back-slop 3 Back-slop4 Levain 1000g (1) 1500g 2500g 3500g Wheat flourt55 Water 600g 20 to 25 C 1000g 1500g 2500g 3500g 300g 5 to 10 C 750g 5 to 10 C 1200g 5 to 10 C 1700g 5 to 10 C Consistancy solid solid solid solid Fermentation time 24h Ambient temperature 18h Ambient temperature 12h Ambient temperature 8h Ambient temperature 24h 6 C to 8 C (1) A chaque étape de l élaboration, on ne reprend qu une fraction de la pâte précédente Source : INBP 12

The choice of the Levain (9) Un parti pris contraignant ² Rythme soutenu J ai souvent réfléchi sur l esclavage pénible où sont les boulangers, d épier le jour et la nuit, ce qui se passe dans leurs

13 The choice of the Levain (9) Un parti pris contraignant ² Rythme soutenu J ai souvent réfléchi sur l esclavage pénible où sont les boulangers, d épier le jour et la nuit, ce qui se passe dans leurs levains, et sur la gêne continuelle de les rafraîchir trois ou quatre fois, ce qui laisse à peine à cette classe d artistes trois heures de suite au plus pour se livrer au repos. Parmentier - Le Parfait Boulanger (1778) ² Long fermentation ² Instability and irregularity ² Multiple error occasions Acidity: too little or too much acetic acid Taste: to weak or aggressive Aspect: liquefying the paste, lack of development of the bread, lack of strength in the dough. 13

14 Surrogate: bakers yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) The choice of the Levain (10) ² Direct seeding Introduction of fresh or dry yeast at the beginning of the mixing. ü ü Speed : decrease of total fermentation time of 5 to 6 hours Regularity: regular and increased dough rise 14

15 The choice of the Levain (11) Levain vs. Bakers yeast - Unique organoleptic qualities - ² Taste enhancing ² Aroma development Sour and acid Depend on the level of acidity Microbial diversity Amplified by a long fermentation ² A rustical and rich texture Dense and irregular crumb ² A unique creamy colour Better elasticity Thicker and crusty crust 15

16 The choice of the Levain (12) Levain vs. Bakers yeast - Other qualities - ² Longer shelf life Higher acidity limits the moulds Reduced water exchange between crust and crumb avoids drying out 1 week conservation where bakers yeast makes the bread stale after 1 day ² Nutritional contribution Low phytic acid presence from the grain through the action of an destructive enzyme: Phytase. better digestion ² Simplified dough handling Shorter mixing times Less sticky dough Better cuts Easier to score 16

17 The choice of the Levain «Natural» 17

Different techniques of pre-fermentation The choice of the Levain«Natural» (1) The Levain «natural» Obtained from spontaneous fermentation Culture generated by natural micro organisms that are found

18 Different techniques of pre-fermentation The choice of the Levain«Natural» (1) The Levain «natural» Obtained from spontaneous fermentation Culture generated by natural micro organisms that are found in the atmosphere and have the ability to seed and ferment a dough obtained from flours or starches, particularly wheat and rye flour. Without the use of bakers yeast (Institut National de la Boulangerie Pâtisserie) 18

Different techniques of pre-fermentation The choice of the Levain«Natural» (2) Other techniques of pre-fermentation Levain from dough: Addition of 15 to 25% of dough from the previous day + bakers

19 Different techniques of pre-fermentation The choice of the Levain«Natural» (2) Other techniques of pre-fermentation Levain from dough: Addition of 15 to 25% of dough from the previous day + bakers yeast Indirect seeding of baker's yeast Levain-yeast: 1/3 of the water quantity + bakers yeast (fermentation time of 10 to 15 hours) Poolish: Liquid version of levain-yeast ½ water quantity + bakers yeast (fermentation time of 10 to 15 hours) 19

20 French legislation - Appellation contrôlée The choice of the Levain«Natural» (3) Article 3 and 4 of the bread decree of 13/09/93 Can only be sold under the denomination pain au levain breads made from levain and showing the following characteristics : ü Acidity: (ph) maximum 4.3 ü ü Acidity: endogenous acetic acid concentration in the crumb of minimum 900ppm Baker s yeast content in the final stage of mixing: 0.2% on flour weight 20

21 Levain Natural vs. Other techniques The choice of the Levain«Natural» (4) ² Organoleptic Qualities Fermentation with natural levain allows a more diverse and balanced microflora ² «Natural» acclaimed by good bread lovers Usage of the denomination «pain au levain» Popular trend: product of the past reintroduced in the everyday life Demand for more taste and naturality Working with a natural levain is the signature and point of differentiation of Maison Eric Kayser 21

22 The choice of the liquid Levain 22

Favour the development of acetic acid Mild taste: Usage in a larger range of recipes: All range of Kayser

23 The choice of the liquid Levain (1) Liquid Levain vs. Paste Levain Liquid Levain Firm Levain 100% Hydration Favour the development of lactic acid 50% Hydration Favour the development of acetic acid Mild taste: Usage in a larger range of recipes: All range of Kayser products (Bread, pastry, viennoiserie... ) Allow a process standardization And scale savings. More volume for the finished goods Easy to clean and to handle 23

24 The choice of the Fermentolevain 24

25 The choice of the Fermentolevain (1) Technological innovation Result of the collaboration of Patrick Castagna and Eric Kayser with the company Bertrand (Dito-Sama group) Trophée Europain matériel

The choice of the Fermentolevain (2) Interests of the mechanization ² Simplify and control Master and assure production while playing with different parameters like duration of the cycles,

26 The choice of the Fermentolevain (2) Interests of the mechanization ² Simplify and control Master and assure production while playing with different parameters like duration of the cycles, temperature, hydration, stirring, etc. Assure the best stability and regularity for quality and taste. Decrease the sensitivity towards climate changes and external contamination. ² And also... Total control on hygiene 100% biological process 26

27 The choice of the detail 27

28 The choice of the detail (1) Other important parameters - Raw materials- Flour Water Other ingredients - Temperatures28

The choice of the detail (2) Other important parameters - Raw materials- Flour ² Extraction rate The highest extraction rate: + the highest fermentation power + the highest acidity ² Rye Negative

29 The choice of the detail (2) Other important parameters - Raw materials- Flour ² Extraction rate The highest extraction rate: + the highest fermentation power + the highest acidity ² Rye Negative impact on the volume of finished good as rye doesn t contain a lot of gluten We use flour T65 with higher extraction rate than the classical flour T55. Rye flour only use during the start-up of the levain 29

30 The choice of the detail (3) Other important parameters - Raw materials - Water ² Chlorine Decrease the activity of the levains Control and water filtration in certain areas. 30

Le choix du détail (4) Other important parameters - Raw materials- Other ingredients ² Salt Decrease the multiplication of the bacteria. Decrease the proteolitic activity of the lactic acid bacteria.

31 Le choix du détail (4) Other important parameters - Raw materials- Other ingredients ² Salt Decrease the multiplication of the bacteria. Decrease the proteolitic activity of the lactic acid bacteria. ² Honey Sugar source boosting the lactic fermentation Source of bacteria and wild yeast Taste enhancer No salt added during the making of the levain Not systematically added, if used: around 2-3% of the blend water-flour

32 The choice of the détail (5) Other important parameters - Temperatures - Lower temperature Favour the production of acetic acid Higher temperature Favour the production of lactic acid and bacterial activity Working at higher temperature to favour the production of lactic acid. Programming of the temperature cycles thanks to Fermentolevain 32

33 Conclusion 33

34 Conclusion (1) Le Levain signé Maison Kayser A liquid natural Levain cultivated thanks to the fermentolevain technology with selected raw materials and respecting the optimal temperature cycles... Complexity Mastering Passion A passion for s l o w fermentation shared by all artisans from Maison Kayser. A complex and precise technique, which allows to reinvent the bakery trade everyday. 34

35 Conclusion (2) A Won Bet 15 years ago... The brand Kayser made the bet to put forward the levain as a base of its production, using it in all its recipes......and in the hearth of its talk, communicating about the unique qualities of the levain regarding shelf-life, taste and nutrition. 35

au levain the flagship product on the shelves of the bakeries.

36 Conclusion(3) A Won Bet And today... The renewed interest of the consumers for the authentic products made some pain au levain the flagship product on the shelves of the bakeries. The Kayser brand differentiated itself by mastering of the levain... A living material complex and fragile about which we knew how to make our signature. 36

37 Thank you for your attention! Puratos - Octobre 13

38 Inaugura0on Sourdough Library 15 October 2013

CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1. Background Bread is one of the most widely-consumed food products in the world and breadmaking technology is probably one of the oldest technologies known. This technology has