inalha W. -.' OREGON: 250 WINES RATE 90+ DISCOVER NEW YORK'S FINGER LAKES THE BEST RARE WHISKIES CHOCOLATE FOR VALENTINE'S DAY

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1 , OUR PERSONAL RECOMMENDATIONS: What to, What to Cellar, Where to Eat and More Allson Napjus, since 2000 inalha W. -.' n eslev, since 2005 OREGON: 250 WINES RATE 90+ DISCOVER NEW YORK'S FINGER LAKES THE BEST RARE WHISKIES CHOCOLATE FOR VALENTINE'S DAY 8EOO-LE8 rt JAN 31 - FEB, 28, 2013 Mj 33GNnO 8E H08 Od 10-r p> 3 1nO~ c 96E El0 3Q1E Hl~8H ~ 3W 1 ~QI~ 3a3 ~~ Iill!! 111/: II qii! "ljll'lipj'l1i'lli III 1111 'IlPIIP'H,I hili 'CTO O T00611 :fto i'tjzr; LBHSa03NN\# L[8r T 1I8ra-SK~\KHKK K WiKr', KKKKKKK M:;-1 19X9 #

INTNERS IN NEW YORK'S EMERGENT Finger Lakes region have found a formula for V success, based largely on Riesling, and they're gaining experience quickly.

2 INTNERS IN NEW YORK'S EMERGENT Finger Lakes region have found a formula for V success, based largely on Riesling, and they're gaining experience quickly. The latest evidence is t he 2011 vintage, when they proved their expertise as heavy rains late in the season made for a tricky harvest. "In general, the 201ls are broader and with(lut really bright acidity," says Bob Madill, owner ofsheldrake Point Winery on Cayuga Ld:e. "But people art' more adept in the vineyards and winery than they were even five years ago. A vintage like 20 II-had it happened a few years ago-could have been a real disaster." "The growers who didn't stay on top of their spray program were shown no mercy," says Morten Hallgren ofravines Wine Cellars, which recently moved imo a new facility on Seneca Lake. Leaf-pulling for better air flow around clusters ro reduce disease pressure and reducing yields to fully ripen the grapes were other techniques critical to success in 20 II, notes Hallgren. This is \Vine Spectator's first formal tasting repurt on the Finger Lakes, though I have covered the region for several years and regularly visit the area to meet \\'ith producers and growers. During the past 12 months, I have reviewed more than 325 Finger Lakes wines in blind tastings in uur New RIESLING MAKES ITS MARK IN THIS NEW YORK WINE REGION BY JAMES MOLESWORTH

York office, two-thirds of which received ratings of 85 points or higher on Wine Spectacor's 100-point scale, including 28 wines that earned outstanding ratings of 90 or more points.

3 York office, two-thirds of which received ratings of 85 points or higher on Wine Spectacor's 100-point scale, including 28 wines that earned outstanding ratings of 90 or more points. (A free alphabetical list ofscores and prices for all wines tasted is available at www. winespectatolcom/ ) About a five-hour drive northwest from New York City, the Finger Lakes region now has 118 wineries, up from 69 JUSt 10 years ago. The majority ring the three lakes of Cayuga, Seneca and Keuka. These deep lakes, carved by glaciers, provide a moderating influence that allows vines to thrive during the growing season and survive tough winters.,\ifhile Finger Lakes producers have historically relied on native and hybrid grapes, the best continue to focus on European vinifera varieties, primarily Riesling and other aromatic whites, along with promising reds such as Pinot Noir, Cabemet Franc and Lemberger. Among the vinifera varieties, Riesling leads with approximately 540 acres of vines, abollt one-third of the total acreage planted to vinifera grapes, though the region does not have exact figures. In addition, producers are homing in on proper site selection for new plantings, reducing yields for quality and showing a growing willingness to compete for customers outside of their local base. IH[ finest Finget Lakes Rieslings are dry, crisp, taut and fresh-styled wines, with flavors ranging from slate and lime to peach, jasmine and green apple. There are very good to outstanding off-dry and sweet versions as well, though they are in the minority. Riesling is clearly the Finger Lakes' best hope at the moment for competing on the world stage. Of the nearly 150 Rieslings reviewed in this report, half are from the 2011 vintage. The Hermann J. Wiemer winery produced three of the top bottlings, including the late-release Riesling Finger Lakes Dry HJW Vineyard 2010 (92 points, $39). (The winery has not yet released its 2011s.) The highest-rated 2011 bottlings are the debut Forge Cellars Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 2011 (91, $25), a gorgeous white from Rhone vigneron Louis Barruol, and the pure Silver Thread Riesling Seneca Lake STY Estate Vineyard 2011 (91, $25). The Forge, a blend of fruit from several different vineyards, was wholecluster fermented in oak, an unusual technique for a region that generally relies on the ease and safety offermentations in stainlesssteel tanks. Other leading wineries include Anthony Road, Bloomer Creek, Fox Run, Keuka Lake Vineyards, Ravines, Red Newt Cellars, Sheldrake Point, Standing Stone and Tierce. Many of the region's top Riesling producers now fashion multiple bottlings, focusing on single-vineyard sources as the hunt for Since acquiring Silver Thread Vineyard two years ago, the husband-and-wife team of Paul and Shannon Brock has found success at this Seneca Lake winery, producing three outstanding Rieslings in distinctive tenoir has kicked into high gear in recent years. "Really the only single vineyard prior to 2007 was Heron Hill's Ingle Vineyard," says Fred Merwarth, owner and winemaker at Hermann J. Wiemer on Seneca Lake. "But the natural evolution for a region is to figure out what varietal works. Then the next step is to really prove it belongs there, and that it isn't something that just works OK. To do that, the varietal needs to replicate a sense of place based on specific sites. And we're now dedicated to doing Single-vineyard bottlings every year at Wiemer, to demonstrate what Finger Lakes Riesling can do-and how site-specific it can be." Noting that all three ofhis top Riesling vineyards were harvested on the same day in October 20 II, Merwarth thinks each provides a distinct flavor and acidity profile, giving him the evidence he needs to pursue single-vineyard bottlings. But while the single-vineyard concept is catching on, there are still many wineries that produce Rieslings by blending various sites. 82 WINE SPECTATOR' JAN FEB. 28, 2013

"The single vineyards are the individual instruments, but the 'dry' bottling is the orchestra," says Paul Brock, who with his wife, Shannon, recently bought Silver Thread Vineyard on Seneca Lake.

4 "The single vineyards are the individual instruments, but the 'dry' bottling is the orchestra," says Paul Brock, who with his wife, Shannon, recently bought Silver Thread Vineyard on Seneca Lake. "I like to show what the single vineyards bring, so I keep some separate, but I really like to put the components together and make the best possible wine I can make that way." The Silver Thread Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 2011 (89, $16), which blends three vineyard sources, is an excellent value, as are the Ravines Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 2011 (89, $17) and Keuka Lake Vineyards Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 2011 (89, $18). These are only a few of the many well-priced wines on offer from the Finger Lakes, which teems with value. Overall, there are 130 wines in this report that cost $20 or less while earning scores of 85 points or better, including many frontline Riesling bottlings. Look for wines from Atwater Estate, Billsboro, Damiani, Dr. Konstantin Frank, Rooster Hill and Wagner, among others. addition to Riesling, other white varietals such as Gewlirztraminer and Chardonnay are the region's IN most consistent. But strides are being made with red wines as well. Cabernet Franc has often been considered the Finger Lakes' best bet, yet Pinot Noir and other cool-climate wines have caught up quickly, in some cases surpassing the best Cabernet Francs despite their shorter track record. Pinot Noir lovers should start taking a closer look at bottlings from the Finger Lakes. Difficult to grow and vinify, the grape is being taken more seriollsly by producers, such as Tom Higgins, owner and winemaker at Heart & Hands on Cayuga Lake, who are willing to lower yields for quality and deal with Pinot's idiosyncrasies. "If you look at benchmark places around the globe, the underlying current is that the best wine grapes are found on limestonebased soils," says Higgins. "And given the landscape of the wine world, Pinot Noir is the most notorious for demonstrating a sense of place. That combination means the Finger Lakes has a wonderful opportunity to present itself as something unique and different in terms of wine." Higgins worked with Josh Jensen at Cali,_ c.~'nd'i~u' G0'jivo La, Penn va l,...ti.mmond,port fornia's Calera winery and then moved to the Finger Lakes to stake his claim, founding his winery in After locating some spots in the region with limestone soils, he was convinced he could make quality Pinot Noir; today, 1,300 of the 2,100 cases he produces are Pinot. The Heart & Hands Pinot Noir Finger Lakes Elaine's Vineyard 2010 (87, $31) shows plum skill., blackberry and black currant fruit, with flickers of cinnamon, black tea and clove. Billsboro, Damiani and Shales tone also made very good Pinots. Exploring the potential of other cool-climate red varietals is Nancy Irelan, who with her husband, Michael Schnelle, founded Red Tail Ridge on Seneca Lake in Planting 20 acres of vines s, " lob Skaneat.l.s _ ""'KO Lak", '"'" ~t~ fro " The vineyards of Heart & Hands, on Cayuga Lake, are planted primarily to Pinot Nair, acool-climate grape showing significant promise across the Finger Lakes. in three years, the couple started with Pinot Noir, while also including small parcels of Teroldego, Lemberger (also called Blaufrankisch), Lagrein and Dornfelder. 'Teroldego was very intriguing given that it's grown ill. alpine vineyards at the base of $ j the Dolomites. Winters call. be extreme in this tth;)c'o -. location, and Teroldego shares a parent with W.lkl~s Glen jnewyor Syrah, an established cool-climate wine cultivar," says Irelan, referring to the need for vines to survive the cold upstate New York winters. "As for Blaufrankisch, I believe the variety has demonstrated its fitness in the Finger Lakes. Hopefully you will see more plantings of this variety in the next few years. Blaufrankisch has been such a popular wine for us that this past spring we pulled out some Riesling, if you can you believe it, and planted around 900 vines." As the region's steadily growing ranks ofwinemakers gain experience, homing ill. on the best grapes and vineyard sites, the Finger Lakes is quickly becoming an excellent source for quality and value. It's time for serious wine consumers to take notice. FINGER LAKES i o~ 1 Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator's lead taster on the wines of the Finge-r Lakes. JAN FEB. 28, 2013 WINE SPECTATOR 83

James Molesworth's Recommended Wines From the Finger Lakes More than 325 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at www.winespectator.com/022813. WineSpectator.

5 James Molesworth's Recommended Wines From the Finger Lakes More than 325 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search. TOP WINES ANTHONY ROAD Riesling Finger Lakes 92 $30 Martini Reinhardt Selection 2009 Ripe and beautifully defined. with ginger-infused apple, honeysuckle and Quince flavors. Offers a flash of sweetness, but relies on minerality in the end. Stands apart frolll the pack for its length and purity. SHELDRAKE POINT Riesling Finger Lakes Ice Wine $60 Lusciously sweet, but pure and racy, with vibrant pear, creamed apple, green fig, jasmine and Quince notes all woven together and gliding througll the lengthy finisll. HERMANN J_ WIEMER Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 92 $39 HJW Vineyard 2010 This is ripe, but Sl10WS excellent precision, with gorgeous mouthfeel to the persimmon. Jonagold apple, anise and honeysuckle notes. which flow througl1 the seamless, lengthy finish. HERMANN J. WIEMER Riesling Finger Lakes 92 $65 Late Harvest Select ml SI10WSweight, with creamed peach, apricot and pear fruit flavors, but stays pure and stylish. with hints of heather, orange blossom and Quince filling ill on the finish. This should age nicely. FORGE Riesling Finger Lakes Dry $25 A persimmon, nectarine and wl1ite peach core is flanked by lightly singed almond husk and lanolin notes in this pure, piercing white. KEUKA LAKE VINEYARDS Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 91 $30 Falling Man Vineyard 2010 Mouthfilling and racy, with fennel. green almond and pear flavors carried by tense acidity that lends amplecut on the finish. SILVER THREAD Riesling Seneca Lake 91 $25 STV Estate Vineyard 2011 This pure White offers astrong chamomile and Quinine spine cutting through the kaffir lime, green apple and green almond notes. STANDING STONE Gewiirztraminer Finger Lakes Ice $25 Bold and spicy, with lively tangerine, clementine, orange zest 375ml and date flavors laced with ginger and green tea notes. STANDING STONE Vidal Finger Lakes Ice $25 Ripe, sweet and viscous, witl1 the acidity to match, showing flavorsof 375mI date, almond cream, candied orange peel, Quince paste and apricot. TO P WIN ES (continued) HERMANN J. WIEMER Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 91 $36 Magdalena Vineyard 2010 This takes abolder stance, with fleshy Quince, persimmon and ginger notes backed by a long, fig- and pear-filled finisll. TOP VALUES FOX RUN Riesling Finger Lakes Dry $16 Offers nice depth for the vintage, with good nerve to the green apple, melon rind and chamomile notes. RAVINES Riesling Finger Lakes Dry $17 Very lively, with crunchy kaffir lime, tarragon, green apple and melon rind notes that bounce through the juicy finish. WAGNER Riesling Finger Lakes Select $13 This has surprising depth for the vintage, with anise, apple and bergamot notes driving along nicely. HERMANN J. WIEMER Riesling Finger Lakes Semi-Dry $17 Pure and creamy, with pear eau-de-vie, green almond and fig notes that glide through the lengthy finish. ATWATER ESTATE Riesling Finger Lakes $16 This fresh white offers lively green and yellow apple fruit, with pretty honeysuckle and white ginger notes that linger through the finish. ATWATER ESTATE Riesling Finger Lakes Dry $16 Shows impressive tension, with amix of citrus oil, bitter grapefruit, green plum and chamomi le notes that drive along nicely. FOX RUN Lemberger Finger Lakes $18 Bright blueberry and loganberry fruit is framed by alight thread of sage and backed by lively acidity that carries the finish. SHELDRAKE POINT Riesling Finger Lakes $16 Offers atangy feel, with pippin apple, fennel, lime and pear skin notes. SHELDRAKE POINT Riesling Finger Lakes Dry $16 Chamomile and apple notes mix with hints of plantain and Key lime. HERMANN J. WIEM.ER Riesling Finger Lakes Dry $18 Rather open-knit already, with arounded feel to the lemon curd, yellow apple and melon rind notes. Plump and ready to drink. Rating Finger Lakes Vintages An early spring was followed by a warm, dry season, with an earlier-than-usual harvest; some late rains helped vines finish ripening after the drought. Consisten t vintag e, with very high quality and excellent acidity Following a wet spring, mid-season was warm and dry, yet late season rains resulted in high disease pressure. Riesling performed well, but an inconsistent growing season overali Warm, dry growing season with little to no disease pressure; early-ripening vari eties harvested under ideal conditions. Late rains only blemish; Riesling came through fine, but reds more variable Wet growing season that lacked consistent warmth led to uneven ripening; managing yields was key. Rieslings are often brisk in style, but with good length; other aromatic whites good, while reds far more inconsisten t Cool, wet growing season saved by Indian summer in September. Riesling excellent and other aromatic whites performed very well; reds good Mild winter followed by unusually hot, dry growing season; only relief was scattered showers in August. Rieslings are clean, ripe and forward, thougll some lack zip for balance; reds benefited more from the warm season NYR or hold A score range indicates a preliminary rating based on ba(rel samples and/or a limited sampling. Vintage ratings: classic; 90-94, outstanding; 85-89, very good; 80-84, good; 75-79, mediocre: 50-74, not recommended Drlnkabllity: "NVR" means the vintage has not yet been released; "drink" means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; "hold" means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature. 84 W INE SPECTATOR ' J A N FEB. 28, 2013

Finely Crafted Finger Lakes Wines

Finger Lakes Seneca Lake AVA Finely Crafted Finger Lakes Wines It Begins With PASSIon & Premium VineYARDS The Missick family, originally hailing from California, left behind successful careers in construction