Welcome to The Society s A Tale of Two Rivers tasting.

Transcription

1 Welcome to The Society s A Tale of Two Rivers tasting. Rivers have played a hugely important role in the history of wine, both as arteries of trade and in helping shape the landscape to provide the perfect canvas for the cultivation of wine. In this tasting, we follow the paths of two of the greatest wine rivers in the world the Rhine and the Danube. Starting in the Swiss Alps, the Rhine travels north through Austria, France and Germany before flowing into the North Sea off the coast of the Netherlands. Its influence was instrumental in establishing some of Europe s most influential wine regions such as Alsace, Pfalz and the Rheingau. The Danube, Europe s second-longest river, starts its nearly 1,800 mile journey in south-west Germany before meandering through Austria, Hungary, Serbia, Romania and Bulgaria, then into the Black Sea. The Society s sweetness code: White wines from bone dry [1] to lusciously sweet [9]. = white wine = red wine S = screwcap closure P = synthetic cork

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3 A Suggested Tasting Order White Wines Wine No. 1, Muscat Réserve, Trimbach 2013 Wine No. 13, The Society s Exhibition Grüner Veltliner 2013 Wine No. 15, Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Vom Urgestein Kamptal 2013 Wine No. 8, Dry Riesling, Louis Guntrum 2013 Wine No. 20, Prince Ştirbey Tamâioasa Româneasca Sec 2013 Wine No. 17, Hilltop Corvinus Hungarian White 2013 Wine No. 2, Pinot Blanc, Domaine Ginglinger 2012 Wine No. 3, Pinot Gris Tradition, Hugel 2012 Wine No. 14, Bernhard Ott Der Ott Grüner Veltliner 2013 Wine No. 4, Riesling Réserve, Trimbach 2013 Wine No. 10, Ruppertsberger Hoheburg Riesling Kabinett 2013 Wine No. 5, The Society s Exhibition Alsace Gewurztraminer 2010 Wine No. 9, Neweier Riesling Alte Reben, Schloss Neuweier 2013 Wine No. 16, Rainer Wess Loibenberg Riesling 2012 Wine No. 22, The Guardians MRV, Borovitza 2011 Wine No. 6, Gewurztraminer Vendage Tardive, Hugel 2007 Wine No. 19, Royal Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos cl Red Wines Wine No. 11, Kaiserstuhl Pinot Noir, Karl Johner 2011 Wine No. 12, Marienglas Spätbergunder Grosses Gewächs, Aldinger 2012 Wine No. 18, Hilltop Corvinus Hungarian Red 2013 Wine No. 21, Prince Ştirbey Negru De Drâgâsani 2013 Wine No. 7, Pinot Noir Réserve Cuve 7, Trimbach 2011

4 The Rhine Known as the Rhein in Germany and the Rhin in France, the Rhine is one of Europe s longest rivers and has played a vital role throughout history, with its surround areas potential for wine growing first exploited by the Holy Roman Empire. Today, most of Germany s vineyards owe their existence to the Rhine River, with its signature grape variety, riesling, producing fuller and richer wines than those found along the Mosel. In Alsace, the majority of production is located south-west of Strasbourg around the town of Colmar and the Rhine s western tributary, Ill. Here riesling is joined by a host of varieties including muscat, pinot blanc, pinot gris and even pinot noir thanks to its warmer climate. Alsace 1. [1] Muscat Réserve, Trimbach 2013 From the house of Trimbach, founded in 1626, this is a delectable bone-dry muscat showing typical grapy character and a floral perfume. It s ideal as an aperitif or with delicate Asian dishes. Drink now until % P ref AL bottle 150 dozen low stock One of the most important features of rivers and bodies of water is their absorption of heat. The heat from the day is stored by rivers and lakes and is then radiated throughout the night, raising temperatures and helping the grapes to ripen fully. In many cooler regions this can be the make or break of a vintage. They also help reduce spring frosts and can provide the morning mists required for the onset of noble rot, producing the legendary sweet wines of Alsace and Germany.

5 2. [2] Pinot Blanc, Domaine Ginglinger 2012 Described as the sunniest corner of Alsace, Eguisheim, just south of Colmar, has been home to Domaine Ginglinger since From their 13 hectares they produce this lovely soft, round white with a hint of richness, attractive fruit and length. Drink this year and next. 12.5% ref AL bottle 126 dozen 3. [1] Pinot Gris Tradition, Hugel 2012 Coming from Hugel s own vines in the town of Riquewihr northwest of Colmar this is a big, full-bodied, dry-style pinot gris that can happily stand up to richer dishes such as duck confit. Drink now until % ref AL bottle 155 dozen Pinot gris is a relative of pinot noir that, when allowed to reach full ripeness, can produce deep-coloured, rich white wines with relatively low acidity and a heady perfume. Pinot blanc is a variation on pinot gris that was thought to be chardonnay right up until the end of the 19th century. It provides a halfway house between refreshment and opulence with moderate structure and acidity. 4. [1] Riesling Réserve, Trimbach 2012 Trimbach s Réserve wine is the result of a rigorous selection of fully ripe grapes from the Ribeauvillé region. A structured, balanced wine, which is both fruity and subtle. Drink now until % ref AL bottle 179 dozen

6 Alsace has the lowest average rainfall in France. This, combined with the ban on irrigation in most of the country, means that soils with good water retention are essential. On the higher, steeper slopes of the Vosges mountains sandstone and granite dominate producing wines with elegance, finesse, texture and a slight but distinctive petrol aroma. The gentler slopes closer to the Rhine have heavier clay and marl soils that provide higher levels of water retention leading to wines with a broader palate and more body. 5. [2] The Society s Exhibition Alsace Gewurztraminer 2010 Produced specifically for us by Hugel from the outstanding 2010 vintage where a combination of cool nights and a late harvest preserved both fruit flavours and freshness. It s off-dry, fullflavoured with a twist of lychee. Drink this year. 14% ref AL bottle 167 dozen Hugel is one of the oldest and best-known wine producers in Alsace, having been established in 1639, and is currently run by the 12th and 13th generations of the family. Their plantings are predominantly riesling and gewurztraminer, together with a little pinot gris and pinot noir. The family pioneered the resurrection of Alsace s late-harvest wines and was instrumental in drawing up the rigorous legal restrictions for the production of both Vendage Tardive and Sélection de Grains Nobles styles. 6. [7] Gewurztraminer Vendage Tardive, Hugel 2007 Rich, luscious late-harvest gewurztraminer taken from Hugel s own plot of vines at the heart of the grand cru Sporen vineyard. It s made from overripe grapes that have been affected by noble rot giving the wine an orange-peel and honey character. Produced in the greatest years only. Drink now until % ref AL bottle 396 dozen low stock

7 7. Pinot Noir Réserve Cuve 7, Trimbach 2011 Very ripe-tasting Alsace pinot noir that is rich, full-flavoured, round and deeply attractive. It s the ideal partner for roast veal, cooked meats and charcuterie. Drink this year and next. 13% ref AL bottle 222 dozen low stock Pinot noir is the only red variety permitted in Alsace and it struggles to achieve a particularly deep colour in this northerly climate. In the past, Alsace pinot noir was always light and fresh with flavours of raspberry and cherry fruit. Recently the trend has been to age in oak barrels, giving a more structured and complex wine. This is certainly the case in warmer vintages such as Germany 8. [2] Dry Riesling, Louis Guntrum 2013 Bright, classic riesling from this Nierstein producer encompassing a wide gamut of flavours unique to this wonderful grape. The palate is zesty, peachy and mouthwatering with a touch of spritz, amplifying its delicious flavours with precision and poise. Drink this year and next. 12.5% S ref GE bottle 107 dozen 9. [2] Neuweier Riesling Alte Reben, Schloss Neuweier 2012 Experience at Château La Tour de By and Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace has stood new owner Robert Schätzle in good stead at Schloss Neuweier. Here he produces full, dry riesling packed with flavour from old vines dating back to the 12th century. Drink now until % S ref GE bottle 102 dozen

8 Most of Germany s best vineyards are on the steepest slopes overlooking rivers such as the Rhine and the Mosel. Due to the steepness of the vineyards and the huge variation in ripening times in such a cool climate almost all vineyard sites are cultivated by hand. Frequently, this involves the segregation of grapes influenced by botrytis so as to achieve rot-free dry wine and nobly rotten sweet wines from the same site. 10. [3] Ruppertsberger Hoheburg Riesling Kabinett 2013 From the town of Ruppertsberg in Pfalz overlooking the Rhine. The 2013 vintage had excellent harvest conditions meaning riesling was picked at perfect ripeness. This wine shows lovely fragrant fruit and full, rich flavour. Drink now until % ref GE bottle 83 dozen 11. Kaiserstuhl Pinot Noir, Karl Johner 2011 Full and generous Burgundian lookalike from the heart of Baden was a warmer year than 2010 in Germany and this shows excellent ripe strawberry-scented fruit with balancing freshness, acidity and well integrated tannin. Drink now until % S ref GE bottle 167 dozen Baden is Germany s longest and southernmost wine region and has the highest percentage of red wine plantings in the country at over 40%. This is made possible by the warmer climate. Low yields are encouraged, especially in top areas such as Kaiserstuhl and Ortenau, to produce more concentrated and characterful spätburgunder (also known as pinot noir).

9 12. Marienglas Spätbergunder Grosses Gewächs, Aldinger 2012 Marienglas is a small site in the heart of the Untertürkheimer Gips vineyard near Fellbach where the oldest vines are found. Beautiful scented bouquet, silky texture and with a finesse that rivals any classy Côte de Nuits Burgundy. Drink now until % ref GE bottle 432 dozen The Danube Also referred to as The Donau, the Danube River has played a vital role in the settlement and political evolution of central and south-eastern Europe. Its banks, lined with castles and fortresses, formed the boundary between great empires and today see a number of capital cities including Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade taking full advantage of its trade routes. Its impact on wine shows an amazing range of varieties and styles, from the cool-climate grüner veltliner in Austria and the lusciously sweet Tokaji in Hungary to the indigenous varieties of Romania, where wine has been produced for over 6,000 years. Austria 13. [1] The Society s Exhibition Grüner Veltliner 2013 From Austrian wine icon Willi Bründlmayer and blended from a combination of young, terraced vineyards which give minerality, and lower-placed, fertile soils that produce more expressive grapes in their youth. It s delicate and pure with smoky lemon fruit and signature white pepper flavours. Drink this year and next. 12.5% S ref AA bottle 155 dozen

10 Austria shares much of its wine customs with its northern neighbour, Germany. However, since the mid 1980s, Austria has fixed its attention on quality rather than quantity, with yields averaging about 50 hectolitres per hectare half those of Germany and even less than Champagne. The majority of wines are white and fuller-bodied than the German norm and the production of fine red wine continues to increase in areas such as Burgenland. 14. [2] Bernhard Ott Der Ott Grüner Veltliner 2013 A delicious Austrian white made in a wonderfully expressive style plenty of pear, pepper, lemon and apple aromatics on the nose that continue on the intense palate, balanced by fresh acidity. Drink this year and next. 13% S ref AA bottle 252 dozen low stock 15. [1] Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Vom Urgestein Kamptal 2013 Schloss Gobelsburg is the 40-hectare Kamptal estate of the Cistercian monastery at Zwettl which has produced wine for over 800 years. This is a fine and elegant example of Austrian riesling bone-dry, perfectly poised and light on the palate. Drink now until % S ref AA bottle 143 dozen Grüner veltliner is Austria s most planted grape variety and accounts for almost one third of the total vineyard area, occupying just over 17,000 hectares. It produces its best wines along the banks of the Danube, where the vines are warmed by the heat funnelled west along the valley from the Pannonian Plain. This effect is most prominent in the regions of Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal. The majority of fine red wine is produced south-east of Vienna around Lake Neusiedl in the Burgenland region.

11 16. [3] Rainer Wess Loibenberg Riesling 2012 From a vineyard site 450m above sea level where the soil is poor and thin the vines are therefore forced to fight for nutrients and push their roots into the bedrock. This, combined with the warmer 2012 vintage, has produced riesling in a broader, richer style with plenty of ripe lemon, pear and white-pepper spice. Drink this year and next. 13% ref AA bottle 234 dozen Hungary 17. [2] Hilltop Corvinus Hungarian White 2013 Hilltop Estate overlooks the Danube north-west of Budapest and has mastered the art of producing fresh, appetising whites from native varieties. This blend of olasz riesling and királyleányka shows an attractive wine with body, freshness and great complexity for the price. Drink this year and next. 13.5% S ref HU bottle 75 dozen Hungary s climate is essentially continental with predictably cold winters and warm summers. The northerly latitude (on a par with Burgundy) makes it ideally situated to produce aromatic and semi-aromatic varieties such as muscat and riesling, while its climate allows full ripening of thicker-skinner red varieties. 18. Hilltop Corvinus Hungarian Red 2013 From the same Estate in Neszmély this is a fruity and attractive mix of the increasingly popular kékfrankos grape (the fresh and spicy blaufränkisch of Austria) with some merlot to add roundness to the flavour. Drink this year and next. 13% S ref HU bottle 78 dozen

12 Although not directly linked to the main Danube, the town of Tokaji is very much influence by neighbouring river, the Tisza, which flows into the Donau in Serbia. The confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers, along with the warming effect of the Carpathian mountains, results in a macroclimate of humid nights and long, warm autumns, favouring the development of noble rot and consequently the production of the legendary Tokaji Aszú. 19. [6] Royal Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos cl One of the world s most famous wines and the result of furmint and hárslevelu grapes which are grown on volcanic soils in hot summers and muggy autumns then barrel aged in deep, cool cellars. The effect of noble rot gives the wine flavours of apricot, honey, orange peel and spice. Drink now until % ref HU bottle 264 dozen low stock Romania 20. [2] Prince Ştirbey Tamâioasa Româneasca Sec 2013 Enchanting dry Romanian white from Princess Lleana granddaughter of Princess Maria Ştirbey and husband, Baron Jakob Kripp. Tamâioasa româneasca is a relative of the muscat grape and in this instance produces a fragrant, refreshing white wine ideal as an aperitif or with Asian cuisine. Drink this year and next. 13% ref RO bottle 119 dozen Prince Ştirbey is located just outside of Drâgaşâni in the region of Oltenia on the north bank of the Danube river. The vineyards in this area date back to Roman times and stretch 35 miles over the foothills of the Transylvanian Alps ranging from 200 to 500 metres in altitude. The climate here is temperate continental with a Mediterranean influence suiting aromatic varieties such as tamâioasa româneasca.

13 21. Prince Stirbey Negru De Drâgâşani 2013 Comparable to good, fully ripened Beaujolais for its intense spice, crushed-blackberry bouquet and succulent soft fruit. Negru simply means black and drâgâşani is in the southern Carpathians where the grape is cultivated. Drink this year and next. 14.5% ref RO bottle 131 dozen low stock Bulgaria 22. [2] The Guardians MRV, Borovitza 2011 From the Borovitza winery in the hills above the Danube the MRV is a Rhône-style blend of marsanne (60%), roussanne (20%) and viognier (20%), fermented in stainless steel then aged in used Bulgarian and American oak barrels for two years. The result is a full-bodied, round, complex and characterful wine. Drink now until % ref BG bottle 179 dozen Although situated on the Black Sea to the east, Bulgaria has a dramatically continental climate. Summers are hot with temperatures often as high as 40 C whilst winters can be as cold as -25 C in some parts. The Danubian Plain runs from Vidin in the north-west to Ruse, and is home to many of Bulgaria s top wineries including Borovitza. Due to the intense summer temperatures the Danube plays a vital role in providing water for irrigation throughout the vineyards.