Argentina 2012 Tasting Notes Red Wines

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1 Argentina 2012 Tasting Notes Red Wines 2001 Nicolás Catena Zapata 14%, Mendoza, Drink: I ve had this incredible wine on five separate occasions and it remains the finest Argentinian red I ve tasted. It s a nuanced, well-balanced blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with 12% Malbec that wouldn t look out of place in Tuscany, the Napa Valley or even the Médoc. Leafy, cassis flavours, seamless oak, very fine, granular tannins and a polished, lingering finish. Ageing beautifully Pulenta Estate Gran Corte 14.6%, Mendoza, Drink: Given the high prices of some of its rivals, this superlative blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc is a bargain. It s dense, sweetly oaked and stylishly proportioned, with polished, grainy tannins, leafy, subtle elegance and a fine, lingering finish. This is right up there with the best wines of the southern hemisphere. The 2009 is superb, too Bressia Monteagrelo Malbec 13.5%, Agrelo, Drink: In a country where a lot of wines taste as if they are trying too hard to please, this is an effortless, low key wine from one of the most experienced oenologists in the country. Harmonious, elegant and complex, with silky tannins and flavours that owe as much to Pinot Noir as they do to Malbec 2009 Cobos Malbec 14%, Luján de Cuyo, Drink: Paul Hobbs has noticeably reduced the alcohol level on this vintage of Cobos, a new blueprint for this iconic red. It s fresher, finer and better balanced than the 2008, with more acidity, haunting violet and blackberry perfume, very stylish tannins and a rich, refined finish. Let s hope Hobbs example will inspire others Nicolás Catena Zapata 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: A wine that is nearly as good as the superlative 2001 release and may well equal it with time this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Malbec and 10% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot is a delicious wine, showing smoky oak, sweet fruit, structured yet fine tannins and good ageing potential. Page 18

2 2009 Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec 14%, Mendoza, Drink: Old vines from La Consulta in the Uco Valley, 100% new oak, unfined and unfiltered and made from very low yields: no one could accuse Robert Cipresso of making a simple wine. Violet-perfumed, dense, yet refreshing with a hint of ripasso-like sweetness, some volatile acidity and a long, well structured finish Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec 13.5%, Mendoza, Drink: One of the two best recent releases from this pioneering, quality-focused winery. Concentrated, dense, almost opaque with compact tannins. Intense, sweet oak, heat (but not high alcohol), fleshy and subtle with Italianate acidity and length. Still young, with a little puppy fat and reduction to lose, but a superb wine that justifies Achaval Ferrer s position as one of Argentina s star bodegas Bressia Conjuro 13.5%, Mendoza, Drink: The top wine at Walter Bressia s family estate (a blend of 50% Malbec with 30% Cabernet and 20% Merlot) is another very subtle red. It s European in style: complex, minerally and pure with freshness, refined tannins and well- integrated oak. A winemaker who dares to be different in Argentina Bressia Profundo 14 %, Mendoza, Drink: Walter Bressia only made 666 cases of this, but there s nothing diabolical about it. It s a very subtle blend of four grapes (50% Malbec supported by Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah), made to last, but with freshness and nuance. The tannins and fruit are beautifully intertwined, with spice, subtle oak and lovely texture Catena Zapata Malbec, Adrianna Vineyard 14%, Uco Valley, Drink: This high altitude Uco Valley vineyard is currently producing some of the best grapes (and wines) in Argentina. The wine is still very youthful, with rich, plum, raspberry and violet flavours, lots of toasty oak and a savoury finish. But the acidity gives it freshness and promises a long life ahead Cobos Malbec 15.3%, Luján de Cuyo, Drink: There s quite a difference in style between this and the more elegant 2009 Cobos, but they are both superb wines. Deep, almost saturated purple, with a rich, ripe, abundantly aromatic nose, finely judged oak, silky tannins, flavours of plum and sweet fruits and a smooth, complex finish. Hedonism in a glass Pulenta Estate Gran Cabernet Franc 14.5%, Luján de Cuyo, Drink: Made entirely from grapes grown in Agrelo (note for anoraks: the clones came from Italy), this is a brilliant wine that would put many a Right Bank Bordeaux to shame. Subtle, supple and grassy, with seamless tannins, notes of red fruits, wood smoke and graphite and well-integrated oak and alcohol. A wine of remarkable finesse and balance. Page 19

3 2008 Riglos Gran Malbec 15.5%, Uco Valley, Drink: This is certainly a pretty powerful wine, especially for a red produced at altitude in the Uco Valley, but it s still balanced. Ripe plum and mocha notes are joined by Syrah-like notes of dill and a hint of pepper spice. The oak is expertly handled, the fruit plush, yet somehow refreshing, even at 15.5% Andeluna Grand Reserve Cabernet Franc 14.5%, Tupungato, Drink: Give or take the alcohol, this could almost have been produced in Bordeaux or the Loire Valley, such is its fidelity to cool climate Cabernet Franc. Aromatic, very stylish and sweetly oaked, with grassy, elegant fruit flavours and notes of green pepper and cassis. A delicious wine that underscores the variety s potential in the Uco Caro 15%, Mendoza, Drink: Expensive by name, and also by price tag, but what else would you expect from a joint venture between Château Lafite and Argentina s best producer, Catena? The wine lives up to the hype. It s very young, very focused, very concentrated, yet there s freshness and elegance here too. The tannins are particularly fine, whilst the blend of Malbec and Cabernet is deftly handled Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 13.5%, Mendoza, Drink: This is coming to the end of its life, but it s still a very impressive wine that stands comparison with almost any Cabernet produced on the other side of the Andes in Chile. Leafy, elegant and fine, with supple tannins and great length, it s a wine to open and drink right now Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: A wine that will outlive the 2000 vintage of the same wine, possibly because it is pure Cabernet, rather than blended with 15% Malbec. Structured and quite firm, this wouldn t look out of place on the Left Bank of Bordeaux. Leafy, mature and complex with balanced acidity and beautiful definition Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino 14.5%, Uco Valley, Drink: It s good to see a top Argentine Malbec with a little bottle age, especially one that has aged as well as this. The 24 months in oak have been soaked up by the concentration of the wine, which is starting to show bottle-aged notes of dried herbs and sweet, almost gamey fruit underpinned by acidity and a hint of mint Cheval des Andes 13.5%, Vistalba, Drink: Despite being older, this is brighter, fresher and more aromatic than the slightly chewy The wine has lift, length, fruit sweetness, grainy tannins and chalky minerality on the finish. It s very much an Argentinian wine, but you can sense the hand of a master Bordeaux winemaker at work here. Page 20

4 2008 Cobos Unico, Marchiori Vineyard 15.3%, Mendoza, Drink: Paul Hobbs Cabernet/Malbec blend is everything you d expect from one of the New World s best winemakers. It s a big wine, with sweet, concentrated fruit flavours and pronounced alcohol, but it s still in balance, showing flavours of coffee, cedarwood, plum and red fruits, abundant aromatics and a rich, mouthcoating texture. The wine has the intensity to age further De Angeles Viña 1924 Gran Malbec 15.5%, Mendoza, Drink It s no surprise that Michel Rolland is the consultant here look at the alcohol level on the label and taste the ripeness and plushness of the fruit. But this old vine Malbec is much more than a paint-by-numbers red. It s savoury, sweet and complex with polished tannins, notes of plum and liquorice, cinnamon spice and sweet oak. The wine is long, stylish and beautifully proportioned Fabre Montmayou Grand Vin 14.5%, Vistalba, Drink: Hervé Joyaux s wines are some of the most seamless and nuanced in Argentina, showing a subtlety that is typical of the man himself. This Malbec dominated blend is perfumed, poised and very long with attractive red fruits flavours, sweet oak, fresh acidity and a sheen of international polish Masi Corbec 14.5%, Tupungato, Drink: I slightly prefer this to the 2009 vintage of the same wine, but that may be because it has had an extra year in bottle. There s more than a hint of Amarone here: figgy and concentrated with pepper spice. The wine has good acidity, firm tannins and a long, stylish finish. A one-off, but a glorious one Mendel Finca Remota Malbec 14.2%, Altamira, Drink: Sourced from 60-year-old vines in the cooler area of Altamira in the Uco Valley, this is a very serious red, bolstered even further by the inclusion of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oenologist Roberto de la Mota has fashioned a modern, aromatic, beautifully refined Malbec that is built to age: tannic, dense, showing sweet cedarwood and blackberry notes that will evolve and deepen in bottle Mendel Finca Remota Malbec 14.2%, Altamira, Drink: Roberto de la Mota has done it again in 2009, replicating the quality of his 2008 from this special Uco Valley plot. The slightly warmer vintage gives the wine a little more flesh, but this is still a very refined, almost Bordeaux-like red with fine-boned tannins, sweet oak and a fine, leafy finish. Outstanding stuff Norton Privada 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: A wine that is just starting to develop in bottle, this is a very classy, polished red with sweet blackberry and fig jam flavours, fine tannins, subtle oak and more structure than is immediately apparent. A red that builds gently on the palate, promising much more as it ages. Long and beautifully balanced. Page 21

5 2009 Piattelli Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 14.5%, Tupungato, Drink: The owners of this comparatively new winery claim that their wines are specifically targeted at the American market, but that seems too narrow a focus, given the finesse and balance of this Cab. It s very alluring on the nose, with aromas of mint and dried herbs. The palate is sweet, nuanced and very classy Trapiche Malbec Federico Villafañe 15%, La Consulta, Drink: This is an amazing wine, even by the high standards of these singe grower releases. It s a rich, plummy, lavishly oaked Malbec with layers of tannin and fruit underpinned by acidity and concentration. Spicy, old vine complexity lends this an extra dimension. Worth buying by the case and cellaring, if there s any left Trapiche Malbec Finca Suarez Lastra 14.5%, Altamira, Drink: Altamira tends to produce slightly fresher wines than most parts of Mendoza, and that s certainly the case here on this grower-sourced wine. There s lots of coffee bean oak, but the wine is profound, concentrated and refreshing. The old vine richness really shines through, as does the finesse of the tannins Yacochuya 15%, Cafayate, Drink: Made in a slightly cooler vintage, this is comparatively elegant by the standards of Yacochuya, despite the high alcohol. It s less reliant on oak than some recent releases, with notes of spice, cassis and green pepper, medium weight tannins and underlying minerality and freshness. Complex and very long on the palate Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec 13.9%, Mendoza, Drink: More backward than the 2005 from the same vineyard, this is like a cross between a Rhône Syrah and an Aglianico. Leafy, mature and complex with a meaty, peppery lift, marked acidity and dry, Italianate tannins Altos Las Hormigas Single Vineyard Malbec 14.6%, Uco Valley, Drink: Italian Alberto Antonini seems to have a special understanding of Malbec in Argentina. This deeply coloured, structured red from Vista Flores is built to last and is ageing gracefully: concentrated, savoury/sweet, with flavours of plum and blueberry, subtle oak and a fresh, palate-cleansing finish Andeluna Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 14.9%, Tupungato, Drink: Just to prove that you can t pigeonhole the man, this wine was made by Michel Rolland, who is better known for his skills with Merlot and Malbec. The tannins are very fine, while the wine is leafy and well balanced with a balsamic note, subtle oak and a long, textured finish. A very poised wine. Page 22

6 2009 Bramare Malbec 15%, Luján de Cuyo, Drink: The more impressive of the two terroir concept Malbecs from Paul Hobbs. Aromatic red fruits on the nose are followed by something denser, richer and darker on the palate, with silky tannins, stylish oak integration and a long, seamless finish. A good value alternative to Cobos Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 14%, Mendoza, Drink: Still a youthful wine (I d drink one of the older ones while you wait for this to develop) but a delicious expression of modern Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromatic cassis and red fruits, hints of ginger and vanilla and a lovely underlying freshness. A class act that needs cellaring Chakana Estate Ayni Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: There s a lot of expensive lumber on this wine, but it s gently folded into the wine. Very aromatic, very svelte, very well balanced, this is a claret drinker s Malbec with grainy tannins, bright, perfumed fruit, tangy acidity and ripe flavours of black cherry and raspberry Chakana Estate Selection Malbec 14%, Mendoza, Drink: Think of this wine as a case of Cahors meets Mendoza: it has the some of the structure of the former with the perfume and fruit sweetness of the latter. Intense, modern, profoundly coloured, with dark liquorice and plum notes and the concentration and freshness to develop in bottle. Graceful and nuanced Colomé Malbec Reserva 15.9%, Calchqui Valley, Drink: There s no denying that this is a big, plush, concentrated style of wine, most of it sourced from old vineyards on the Colomé estate, nor that it is a little pruney. But it s sweet and complex, too, with plum, blackberry and liquorice notes, dense, tarry tannins and impressive structure and length De Angeles Viña 1924 Malbec 14.8%, Mendoza, Drink: Not far behind the Gran Malbec from the same winery in terms of colour, concentration and richness, this inky, ripe, raspberry coulis-like red is very impressive in a super-charged way, with aromas and flavours of tar, leather and stewed plums and a leafy, yet rich finish. Half the price of the Grand Vin, too Diamandes de Uco Reserva 14.5%, Uco Valley, Drink: This is the most elegant wine to come out of the Clos de los Siete project, a ripe, but not over-ripe blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec owned by the proprietors of Château Malartic-Lagravière. Fine and aromatic, with sweet oak, supple bramble, cassis and raspberry fruit and real concentration. Page 23

7 2009 Mendel Unus 14.3%, Perdriel, Drink: Blending is arguably what Roberto de la Mota does best and the combination of 70% Malbec with 30% Cabernet is characteristically well handled here. This is a taut, tightly wound style that is meant to unfurl in bottle. The 100% new oak is very well integrated, while the fruit is underpinned by acidity and minerality. An estate whose wines are getting better with every vintage Noemía %, Río Negro, Drink: This should shame the Bordelais, says Hans Vinding-Diers. It s certainly an accomplished, Cabernet-based Bordeaux style blend and the first release of this wine since It s leafy, refreshing and low in alcohol, but with very fine tannins and good underlying intensity Noemía J Alberto Malbec 13%, Río Negro, Drink: J Alberto is sourced from eight different blocks at Noemía and is the estate s second wine. It doesn t taste like it in 2010, mind you, because this is as good as the headline release. It s perfumed, light and almost Sangiovese-like with sweet raspberry fruit, fresh, cool climate acidity and a balanced, spicy finish Riglos Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 15.2%, Uco Valley, Drink: This high altitude Cabernet wears its 15%+ alcohol extremely lightly, such is the freshness of its acidity and its balanced tannins. It s deeply coloured and aromatic, made in a floral, well-balanced style, with excellent oak integration and a sweet mint and blackcurrant-laced palate. An estate to watch Riglos Gran Corte 15.2%, Tupungato, Drink: A wine that tastes as good as it looks, this blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvigon and Cabernet Franc displays that classic Argentinian combination of ripeness, texture and sweet fruit, offset by fresh acidity. This is a typical Uco red, showing ageing potential as well as immediate drinkability Trapiche Iscay 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: This proves that Daniel Pi s blend of Merlot and Malbec (in equal parts, if you re interested) ages well in bottle. The wine is almost claret like, with well-integrated vanilla oak, notes of Christmas cake and red fruits, subtle tannins and subtle acidity. The wine is long and stylish Trapiche Malbec Fausto Orellana de Escobar 14.5%, La Consulta, Drink: The quality of old vine fruit from La Consulta (the source of some of the New World s best reds) is all too apparent here. Notes of dill and spice, allied to lots of oak, make this smell almost Rioja-like, but the palate is much denser and sturdier, with the structure and the weight to age. Page 24

8 2008 Trapiche Malbec Jorge Miralles 15%, La Consulta, Drink: It s hard to decide between these Trapiche grower Malbecs, such is the consistency of the selections from year to year. This Uco Valley example is quite oaky, but has the texture and fruit to cope. It s just starting to move into a secondary phase, with leafy, gamey characters beginning to show Zuccardi Aluvional 14%, La Consulta, Drink: The Zuccardi winery has raised its sights since Sebastian joined his father, José, in running the business, an improvement that is underlined by the quality of this Uco Valley Malbec. There s quite a bit of new oak here, but it s balanced by richness and (more importantly) freshness, with mint, sage and blackberry sweetness Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec 13.5%, Mendoza, Drink: It may not have quite the class of the 2009 or the 2007 from the same Uco Valley vineyard, but this is still a classy wine. On the light side for an Achaval Ferrer red, with considerable elegance, polished tannins, fresh acidity and liquorice and black fruits folded into the texture of the wine Achaval Ferrer Quimera 13.9%, Mendoza, Drink: Proof that these wines do age in bottle, despite what some critics say. This is almost Brunello-like in aroma, flavour and structure, despite the Bordeaux varieties in the blend. Liquorice, fine if firm tannins and a gamey, slightly feral sweetness on the palate make this a rather unusual wine for Mendoza Alta Vista Alto 15%, Mendoza, Drink: This is a complex Bordeaux-meets-Argentina style blend of 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon made by the talented Philippe Rolet. Designed to age in bottle, this is the current release, a smoky, refined, well balanced red with notes of cherry and blackberry and fine, lingering acidity Alta Vista Alto 15%, Mendoza, Drink: Made in a cool vintage, which seems to suit the Alto style, this blend of 75% Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon as a supporting partner is very European in style: grassy, elegant, yet quite firm, with a nice tango between fruit and tannin on the palate and a complex, refreshing finish Alta Vista Serenade Single Vineyard Malbec 15%, Mendoza, Drink: The single vineyard in question is located on clay coils close to the Cobos winery. It s quite marked by oak with broad, textured fruit, mulberry, violet and incense notes and a sweet, satisfying finish. It s the biggest and ripest of the wines from this French-influenced winery. Page 25

9 Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, Perdriel, Drink: Paul Hobbs made his name in California with Cabernet Sauvignon, so it s no surprise that he knows how to handle the grape in Argentina, too. This single vineyard wine from Perdriel is rich and concentrated, with lots of cassis and graphite flavours, savoury oak and the structure and balance to age Doña Paula Estate Malbec 14.2%, Ugarteche, Drink: Deliberately made in a refreshing style, according to Edy del Popolo, this is sourced from Finca El Alto in Ugarteche. It s an elegant style with aromas of potpourri and ginger spice, sweet red fruits and a dusting of oak. Ripe, but not jammy, this is a very stylish wine, heralding a significant leap forward in quality Doña Paula Selección Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: For me, this is one of the most exciting wines yet from this under-rated winery, a blend of 70% Gaultallary and 30% Luján fruit. It s fresh, zesty and peppery almost cool climate Syrah-like, in fact with understated tannins, good acidity and gently integrated oak El Tránsito Pietro Marini Reserva Roble Malbec/Cabernet 14%, Cafayate, Drink: The American oak is sensitively handled on this Cafayate blend, adding a sheen of vanilla sweetness. The underlying wine is gentle and elegant, with fine tannins, leafy, refreshing fruit flavours and a savoury finish. These are wines that age gracefully, conveying the finesse of the terroir Humberto Canale Merlot Gran Reserva 14%, Río Negro, Drink: Horacio Bibiloni makes some of the most elegant, understated wines in Argentina, typified by this soft, leafy, aromatic red. It s quite forward in style, with flavours that are almost Cabernet Franc-like, but a pleasure to drink, with fine, supple tannins and a lift of acidity on the finish. Very Río Negro Lagarde Primeras Viñas Malbec 14.9%, Mendoza, Drink: Great label, great wine. This is made from 100-year-old vines and it has the density and concentration to prove it. Ripe and bold, with a touch of volatility, thick, muscular tannins, flavours of fig and sweet plum, lots of alcohol and enough acidity for balance. A traditional style, but an appealing one Lindaflor Malbec, Bodega Monteviejo 15.5%, Uco Valley, Drink: Super rich, super ripe, super concentrated. Super everything, really. This is an explosive wine with masses of oak and sweet kirsch, plum and blackberry fruit and a dusting of Asian spices. I m not convinced the wine will age well, but most of it will be drunk young, so that probably doesn t matter. Page 26

10 Masi Corbec 14.5%, Tupungato, Drink Made from what may well be the only Corvina grapes planted in the Uco Valley combined with Malbec hence the brand name: Cor+bec this is a fascinating wine, with drier, firmer tannins than many Argentinian wines and a firmer backbone. The oak is very subtle here, balanced by plum and black cherry fruit with undertones of tobacco and liquorice Michel Torino Altimus 14.5%, Cafayate, Drink: The precise blend of this wine changes from year to year this one is 52% Malbec, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Syrah and 8% Bonarda but it is consistently one of the best reds in Cafayate. Lots of oak, lots of tannin, lots of flavour: mint, cassis, violets and appealing freshness and length. An ambitious wine that will develop further in bottle Salentein Numina 14%, Uco Valley, Drink: This Uco Valley blend of Malbec and Merlot is very much a cool climate style. It s quite a soft, easily approachable red with aromatic fruit that could easily be mistaken for Pinot Noir, were it not for the nip of tannin on the finish. Perfumed and complex with silky tannins and sweet oak San Pedro de Yacochuya 15.4%, Cafayate, Drink: This is the second wine of Yacochuya, but it s still a tasty wine in its own right, made with 80% Malbec and 20% Cabernet and aged in second use oak for a year. It s almost Rhône-like, with notes of black olive and lavender, some pepper spice and a hint of volatility. Unusual, certainly, but full of personality Trapiche Malbec Domingo F Sarmiento 14.5%, La Consulta, Drink: Trapiche have used the grapes from this grower on more than one occasion for their series of three top-named Malbecs, and you can see why. The wine is rich and aromatic, with lovely sweet, toasty oak, fine tannins and plush, yet refreshing fruit. A wine that will reward cellaring Trapiche Malbec Domingo F Sarmiento 14.5%, La Consulta, Drink: By the standards of these Trapiche releases, this is a little less of a fruit bomb, with tannins and structure to spare on the palate. There s a touch of prune and fig showing through, suggesting that the fruit is on the ripe side, but this is still a dense, complex, and very well made wine Trapiche Malbec Federico Villafañe 14.5%, La Consulta, Drink: As if to prove that there is such as thing as vintage variation in the Uco Valley, this is a very different wine from the same grower s It s more elegant and perfumed with chocolate, spice and sweet fruit on the nose, subtle, grainy tannins and a long, supple finish. Essence of old vine Malbec. Page 27

11 Trapiche Malbec Viña Adriana Venturín 14.5%, San Carlos, Drink There s a slightly cakey, developed note to this wine, which suggests that it may not make old bones, but it s still a very serious red, with lots of sweet, currant and fig-like fruit, serious tannins and a sheen of sweet oak. The wine is rich and palate-caressing with a long, complex finish Yacochuya 15.9%, Cafayate, Drink: A wine that is still commercially available on some markets (the estate likes to release its reds with bottle age) this is typical of the Yacochuya style: idiosyncratic, yet surprisingly elegant for its alcohol level. Behind the slighty pruney flavours, there are notes of raspberry and black cherry, a lift of volatility and medium weight tannins. Still, time to drink up Zuccardi Emma Zuccardi Bonarda 13.5%, Santa Rosa, Drink: This comes from the Zuccardi family s home vineyard in Santa Rosa, grown on high trellises, the traditional way. It s floral and intense, with hints of smoke, soft red fruit, ripe tannins and just a touch of oak. The wine manages to avoid the comparative rusticity of Bonarda with considerable skill Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec 13%, Mendoza, Drink: A wine that is showing very little evolution in terms of colour, but quite a bit on the nose and palate. There s a little bit of mushroom here, a feral undertone and a lift of volatility, but the wine still works in an evolved, fairly old-fashioned style Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista 13.9%, Perdriel, Drink: You won t find much of this on the open market, but it does show how long the Bella Vista wines take to come round in bottle, having the most structure and backbone of the Achaval Ferrer wines. It s still quite chewy, but there s enough acidity and, crucially, sweet, savoury fruit for balance Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador 14%, Mendoza, Drink: You meet aromas and flavours in the wines of Achaval Ferrer that don t exist anywhere else in Mendoza. This one has notes of lavender, incense and pine resin. The tannins, again, are reminiscent of a good Brunello di Montalcino, with acidity underpinning the wine s mature, leafy flavours Alta Vista Atemporal 15%, Uco Valley, Drink: An unsual blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot in which none of the varieties dominates on the nose or palate. A little pruney perhaps, but this is sweet and complex with enough acidity to prevent the wine becoming ponderous. Not as fresh as the best Alta Vista wines. Page 28

12 Alta Vista Temis Single Vineyard Malbec 15%, El Cepillo, Drink: The chalky notes in this wine are more than imaginary, given that the grapes from which it is made were grown on limestone at the southern end of the Uco Valley. It s aromatic and fine, with an evident French touch, red fruits, medium weight tannins and a zesty, refreshing finish Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Terroir 14.4%, Uco Valley, Drink: Alberto Antonini draws on different fruit sources in the Uco Valley to achieve the balance he s after in this wine. A third of the wine is unoaked, and the result is a subtle Malbec, rather than a fruit bomb, showing welcome minerality, subtle oak, cherry and blackberry fruit and appealing length and complexity Argento BSM 14%, Mendoza, Drink: If you thought Argento was just an entry point brand, designed to be fruity but undemanding, this wine might change your mind. BSM stands for Bonarda, Syrah and Malbec (and I m sure there s a white grape in here, too) and the blend is very successful: medium bodied, aromatic and surprisingly refined Bramare Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, Luján de Cuyo, Drink: Inky, concentrated, well-structured Cabernet made in a Napa Valley meets Mendoza style. Plum, cassis, lead pencil and Asian spices are the dominant flavours here, framed by lots of new oak. It s something of an international wine, but it s a very well made one with the concentration to develop in bottle Bramare Malbec Rebón Vineyard 14.8%, Uco Valley., Drink: Sourced entirely from La Consulta, the Malbec sweet spot of the Uco Valley, this unfined and unfiltered red is flirting with over-ripeness, with an undertone of fruitcake, but there s also some nice fig and plum fruit, offset by aromatic cigarbox and vanilla oak. The tannins are surprisingly powerful here Bressia Monteagrelo Syrah 14% Mendoza. Drink: This isn t quite up to the remarkable standards of Walter Bressia s other top reds, but it s still a pretty serious Syrah. As ever, the emphasis is on balance and freshness rather than over-ripe fruit, with sweet tannins and good acidity, but there s just a hint of bitterness on the finish Bressia Profundo 14%, Mendoza, Drink: Compared with the 2006, this is more reductive and closed, but maybe it just needs some time in bottle (or air in a decanter) to open up. It s a blend of mostly Malbec with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% each of Merlot and Syrah. The tannins are firmer here, but the structure and balance are still impressive. Page 29

13 Catena Zapata Vista Flores Malbec 13.5%, Mendoza, Drink: A new, mid-priced label from Catena, made in a Malbec-meets-Pinot-Noir style, with light tannins, good finesse and freshness, perfumed cinnamon oak and very good palate length. This winery does Malbec better than anyone and at every level. A label to watch Chacra Barda Pinot Noir 12%, Patagonia, Drink: I usually prefer the single vineyard releases from this Río Negro estate, but the 2009s and 2010s are a little disappointing. While we await the 2011s, this more approachable Pinot is the best Chacra red on the market right now. It s sweet and approachable with wild strawberry notes and subtle oak Cheval des Andes 14%, Vistalba, Drink: We ve come to expect such great things from Pierre Lurton of Château Cheval Blanc (and the consultant here), that this is a slight disappointment when tasted alongside top vintages like But it s still a complex blend: savoury and sweet, with plenty of fruit but just a little too much tannin Colomé Estate Malbec 14.5%, Calchaqui Valley, Drink: Remarkably consistent from vintage to vintage, the latest release of this high altitude Malbec is an impressive red, carrying its 14.5% alcohol like a schoolboy his packed lunch. The texture of the tannins is what delights here: suave and grainy, backed up by sweet, aromatic, violet and wild strawberry fruit flavours Colomé Estate Malbec 14.5%, Calchaqui Valley, Drink: This isn t far behind the more expensive Reserva Malbec in quality and it s quite a bit cheaper. It s also a blended wine, despite what it says on the label, with 15% made up of a combination of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah. The result is very classy indeed: brambly, refreshing, aromatic and stylishly oaked with less intensity than the Reserva, but arguably better balance Colomé Tannat, Lote Especial 14.9%, Calchaqui Valley, Drink: The best of Colomé s special release wines to my mind, this comes from what is a marginal climate for Tannat, according to winemaker, Thibaut Delmotte. But it shows a lot of potential: firmish tannins balanced by ripe, tarry fruit, smoky oak and warm spice. The variety clearly retains its acidity in warm climates Cruz de Piedra Umbral Malbec 14%, Mendoza, Drink: An aromatic, modern style of Malbec, priced to appeal to the mid-market. Violetscented and sweet, with stylish oak integration, chalky minerality and sweet mulberry and blackberry fruit, this is a wine for people who don t want to drink their Malbec with a knife and fork. Page 30

14 Doña Paula Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 14% Mendoza, Drink: It says Cabernet on the label, but there 8% Malbec and Cabernet Franc in this wine for added complexity, blending fruit from Ugarteche and high altitude Gaultallary. The wine is leafy, elegant and very pure, with notes of sage, mint and cassis and a fresh, yet firm finish. Needs time in bottle El Tránsito Pietro Marini Reserva Roble Cabernet/Syrah 14%, Cafayate, Drink: Like many of the best Cafayate reds, the tannins on this wine are silky and fine, with a texture that caresses the palate. There s some grip from the 70% Cabernet, but the wine is very harmonious, with flavours of fresh tobacco, wood smoke, cassis, pepper spice and sweet plums Eral Bravo Erales Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: Medium-coloured and aromatic, this is a forward, supple, easy-drinking Malbec showing red fruits, gentle oak ageing and good length and freshness. It s ripe, but not over-ripe, with flavours that are almost reminiscent of warm climate Pinot Noir. Less oaky than some past releases from this winery Familia Schroeder Saurus Barrel Fermented Malbec 14.4%, Neuquén, Drink: The name gives it away here. If you don t like oaky wines, this won t float your boat. But oak isn t the only flavour by any means, because this has fine tannins, Patagonian freshness, smoky liquorice and bramble fruit and some ageing potential. Schroeder is the name to watch in Neuquén Fin del Mundo Special Blend 14%, Neuquén, Drink: This is the best wine from this large, Neuquén-based winery, a blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It s on the green and grassy side, with notes of mint and green pepper, but the oak is woven into the wine and the flavours are nicely developed, with a slightly feral note on the aftertaste Gran Enemigo 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: Gran Enimigo is a joint venture between Adrianna Catena and winemaker Alejandro Vigil, using three varieties (Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) in an intriguing blend: richly oaked, super ripe and savoury/sweet, but with an underlying note of elegance and complexity and a long, tapering finish Humberto Canale Old Vineyard Pinot Noir 14%, Río Negro, Drink: Argentina isn t known for its Pinot Noir, but Río Negro is as promising a place as any to grown this most fickle of grapes. The oak is quite subtle here, allowing the supple succulent strawberry fruit to express itself in the glass. Forward and easy drinking but with nice texture and persistence. Page 31

15 Laborum Tannat, El Porvenir de los Andes 14.3%, Cafayate, Drink: For my pesos, this is the best wine from El Porvenir de los Andes. Inky black and appropriately concentrated on the nose and palate, it has floral, orange peel aromas, sweet, yet structured tannins, a hint of reduction and good interaction between brambly fruit, oak and acidity Lindaflor Malbec, Bodega Monteviejo 15%, Uco Valley, Drink: This is the first vintage from Catherine Péré-Vergé s Uco Vally winery and the best of the older releases in my view. It s figgy and mature, but the fruit seems more alive than in some Lindaflors. The alcohol is still on the high side Michel Rolland is the consultant, after all but there s some underlying elegance here Luca Nico Malbec 14%, Mendoza, Drink: Laura Catena s wines are very much aimed at the American market: heavy bottles, deep colour, sweet vanilla oak and oodles of blackberry fruit. This is rich and heady with bright, aromatic fruit, soft tannins, well integrated oak and a long, sweet, stylish finish with hidden tannins and bright acidity Luigi Bosca Gala I 14%, Mendoza, Drink: An unusual blend of 75% Malbec, 15% Petit Verdot and 10% Tannat made in a light, elegant, unforced style with appealing perfume from the Malbec and a bit of texture and stuffing from the other two grapes. The wine shows good oak integration, medium weight tannins and impressive palate length Lurton Piedra Negra Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley, Drink: As you d expect from the scion of a famous Bordeaux family, François Lurton makes comparatively elegant, understated wines in Argentina. This one is made from two different clones one French, one local and it s very appealing: savoury and refreshing with firm, leafy tannins and subtle oak Masi Passo Doble 13.5%, Tupungato, Drink: Using a technique that is popular in its native Veneto region, Masi re-fermented this refreshing Malbec with some slightly dried (and therefore sweet) Corvina grapes. The result is like an Italian riff on Malbec: fresh, raspberry and cherrystone flavours with racy acidity and just a nibble of tannin on the finish Mi Terruño Mayacaba Malbec 14.3%, Mendoza, Drink: Sourced from 100-year-old vines, this comes from a boutique winery that deserves a wider following. It s still very floral for a 2007, showing fresh acidity and a herbal undertone. The wine is complex, savoury and understated, with a sweet core of red fruits and a slightly feral note. Page 32

16 Norton Finca Perdriel Colección Merlot 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: In a land where varietal Merlots are rarer than vegetarians, this is a wine that actually tastes of the grape. Yes, it s ripe, but it s also fleshy and textured with sweet fruitcake and mulberry fruit, fresh acidity and fine, filigree tannins. A wine that shows freshness and the hand of a very good winemaker O Fournier A Crux Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley, Drink: José Manuel Ortega s policy of keeping his top reds back before release means that they often show secondary flavours in bottle of tobacco and earth. That s the case here in a wine that has sacrificed immediate fruit for smoky complexity on the palate. The oak is a little firm, but the flavours are positively autumnal O Fournier B Crux 14.5%, Uco Valley, Drink Like its brother A Crux, this is a Tempranillo-based blend from the southern end of the Uco Valley, topped up with 30% Malbec and 10% Merlot. It s the fruitier and more aromatic of the two with sweet red cherry, plum and raspberry fruit, supple tannins and a stratum of vanilla oak. Finishes with a lift of acidity Pascal Toso Finca Pedregal 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: It s not just the weight of the bottle that shows you that this is a serious wine, it s the contents too. It s a mature blend of mostly Malbec with 20% Cabernet that is very much a warm climate style: plum, chocolate, date and fig-like fruit, lots of oak, sweet tannins and palate-warming alcohol, but also decent acidity Passionate Wines Inéditos Bonarda 11%, Uco Valley, Drink: This is a brave and, I believe, ground-breaking wine from Matías Michelini, one of the country s best young winemakers. It s unoaked, light in alcohol and very refreshing, with primary, almost carbonic maceration aromas and a sweet, juicy, spicy, plumy palate. Very fruity, but elegant and refreshing, too Rutini Apartado Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley, Drink: Part owned by Nicolás Catena since 1994, Rutini is one of Mendoza s great historic names. This blend of mostly Malbec with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot has notes of coriander and fresh herbs on the nose and palate, backed up by flavours of plum skin, orange zest and a hint of raisin. Appropriately Italianate in style, with refreshing acidity on the finish Salentein Numina 15%, Uco Valley, Drink: Deeply coloured, despite its bottle age. Rich, alluring, curranty and well balanced. It s hard to see where the Malbec starts and the Merlot stops. Ripe, certainly, oaky, granted, but this has a winning combination of balance and structure. Page 33

17 Trapezio BoBó Gran Corte 14%, Agrelo, Drink: BoBó stands for Bohemian and Bourgeois apparently, which may or may not be a reference to the two grapes in the blend: 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Franc. The result is classy and refreshing with a touch of reduction and notes of fresh herbs, mint and ripe plums. The American oak is very well integrated here Trapiche Iscay 14.5%, Mendoza, Drink: A wine that seems considerably older than the 2008 release, showing incense and some sweet oak on the nose, svelte tannins, good barrel integration, fresh acidity and supple, raspberry and fruit cake flavours. The blend here is the more typical 50/50 Malbec and Merlot Trapiche Malbec Franciso Olivé 14.5%, Luján de Cuyo, Drink: Like most of the top end Trapiche Malbecs, this is dense, aromatic and very serious. The fruit is on the ripe side here, with a touch of volatility, lashings of oak and a firm, chewy finish. Arguably something of a one glass wine, but there s no denying the intensity of that glass Trapiche Malbec Jorge Miralles 14.5%, La Consulta, Drink: The most forward of the three Trapiche grower Malbecs in 2009, this is spicy and very perfumed on the nose, with floral scents. On the palate, it s stylish and well balanced with less oak than its two stable mates, plenty of texture and a concentrated, yet refreshing finish. Drink this and wait for the other two Trapiche Malbec Victorio Coletto 15%, Tupungato, Drink: There s an Italianate note to this wine think Brunello or even, possibly, Aglianico with spicy, bottle-aged complexity, fruitcake and wild strawberry notes, firmish tannins, a lift of acidity and a long, compelling finish. The wine may be coming to the end of its life, but it s still kicking Trapiche Malbec Viña Fausto Orellana 14.5%, San Carlos, Drink: It may be drink up time for this mature Uco Valley Malbec, but this still works with a slab of steak off the barbecue. It s firm and quite extracted, but the tannins are surrounded by sweet oak and supple, cakey fruit flavours. A hint of volatility gives the wine an extra lift on the palate Viña de Davalos, Finca Tacuil 17%, Salta, Drink: It goes without saying that this is an unusual wine, sourced from some of the highest (2,597 metres) and oldest (130 years) vineyards in Argentina. It s also organic, made without sulphur dioxide and weighs in at 17% alcohol. In other words, if you like Zinfandel, this will appeal. It s slightly sweet, with notes of plums, tobacco and raisins, has good acidity, fine tannins and a feral note. Worth trying for its curiosity value alone. Page 34

18 Viñalba Gran Reserva Malbec, Domaine Vistalba 15%, Mendoza, Drink: Consistently on the money when it comes to producing commercial (in the best sense), well made reds, Domaine Vistalba s Malbec is densely coloured, with dark, faintly pruney notes, lots of sweet, vanilla oak and ripe black fruits and a smooth powerful finish, like a V8 engine Yacochuya 16.4%, Cafayate, Drink: 2012 Given the choice, I d drink the 2003 in preference, but this is still quite a wine, showing rich, curranty, caked, almost baked fruit, notes of incense and wild herbs, powerful tannins (from shrivelled skins perhaps) and dense, palate-coating fruit flavours. A wine that you could cut with a steak knife Zorzal Climax 14.3%, Gualtallary, Drink: Zorzal is a winery to watch, having made its first wines in 2008 and benefiting from the skills of winemaker Matías Michelini. This Cabernet/Malbec blend is appealingly green for Argentina, with flavours of mint, cassis and fresh herbs. The oak is quite prominent, but should integrate nicely in bottle Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec 14%, Mendoza, Drink: Thick, almost opaque in colour with intense purple hints. An oaky, almost woody, bark-like note on the nose, but backed up by rich fruit. The wine is a little angular and disjointed on the palate, with fruit on one side, acidity on the other and flavours of tar and wood smoke in the middle. Still interesting Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador 14%, Mendoza, Drink: I m not sure I d keep this in my cellar for much longer, but this mature Malbec from Medrano is very attractive now: savoury/sweet, with flavours of fig, tobacco and dried fruits and a firm, slightly drying finish. Another complex wine that really is one of a kind Achaval Ferrer Malbec 14%, Mendoza, Drink: The basic wine from this top Mendoza operation is its most approachable and easy to understand in a way: classically perfumed, spicy Malbec with little oak influence, fresh acidity and sweet, well-upholstered fruit Achaval Ferrer Quimera 14%, Mendoza, Drink: Unfined, unfiltered and something of a walk on the wild side, Roberto Cipresso s regional blend of no fewer than five grapes (Malbec with lesser amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot) is typically concentrated and aromatic, with good acidity and malty, savoury complexity. Some purists might object to the volatile acidity here. Page 35

19 Achaval Ferrer Quimera 13.9%, Mendoza, Drink: It may be autosuggestion, but there is definitely an Italian note to this blend, despite the presence of only French grapes (Malbec and the Bordeaux quartet of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot). Medium-bodied and refreshing with leafy tannins and marked minerality on the back palate Bramare Malbec 15%, Uco Valley, Drink: A wine that handles its 15% alcohol less well than its brother from Luján de Cuyo, this Uco Valley terroir concept wine is strapping and intense, with a hint of baked fruit. There s plenty of tannin and acidity for balance, but the flavours are just a little pruney and dry Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 14.1%, Mendoza, Drink: One of a range of very good Cabernets from Argentina s best producer, although this one is showing more alcohol and oak than the younger There s that same leafy, almost Margaux-like quality to the wine, but the wine finishes just a little hot and over-ripe Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 14.2%, Mendoza, Drink: The Brett on this Cabernet might bother some purists, but I think it works in the context of the wine, adding a feral note to a wine that is ripe, complex and mature with gamey sweetness and fine-grained tannins. Another wine that should be drunk sooner rather than later Clos de los Siete 14.5%, Vista Flores, Drink: The seven original members of this French partnership may have dwindled to nearly half that number, but the wine continues to be one of the best value reds in the country, a sweet, curranty blend of mostly Malbec with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah for support. Ripe, spicy and lavishly oaked Colomé 180 Años Malbec 14.5%, Calchqui Valley, Drink: This is a special bottling, which may not make it on to all export markets. It s varietal Malbec, sourced from old vines, and it s like a quintessence of the grape: perfumed, very rich and soft and fleshy, with notes of blackberry and graphite. The oak is fine, but the alcohol is just a little too dominant here Etchart Arnaldo B 14.5%, Cafayate, Drink: The top red wine from this large Cafayate operation is a well made blend of Malbec with 35% Cabernet, Tannat, Syrah and Bonarda. There s lots of oak (almost de rigueur in Argentina), but the wine has fresh acidity, medium weight tannins and notes of fresh herbs and cassis. It ages well, too, as a rule. Page 36

20 Familia Schroeder Saurus Barrel Fermented Pinot Noir 14.5%, Neuquén, Drink: Made by a winery that is improving with every vintage, this is a very creditable Pinot Noir, especially given the heat of the vintage. It s pretty oaky, as its name suggests, with flavours that are quite structured for Pinot, but it s got sweetness and texture too, with notes of black cherry, vanilla and plum Familia Schroeder Saurus Select Pinot Noir 14%, Neuquén, Drink: This wine is cheaper than Schroeder s Barrel Select Pinot Noir, but it s just as good in its own way. In fact, it has a claim to be Argentina s best value interpretation of the grape. Juicy and pleasant with sweet red fruits, deep colour and a touch of oak for added complexity. Very drinkable Fincas de la Juanita Juana del Sol Malbec Reserva 13.5%, Mendoza, Drink: If you re looking for bang for your buck, pound or euro, this family-owned winery delivers it. The wine is dark and inky, made in a rich style but with lovely freshness and balance beneath it. Smoky oak, bright acidity and plenty of sweet brambly fruit all combine nicely on the palate Huarpe Taymente Malbec 14.4%, Luján de Cuyo, Drink: Made from Malbec grown in the grape s traditional heartland of Luján de Cuyo, this is a value for money red whose focus is on fruit rather than oak. There s a green, almost Cabernet-like note to this wine. The tannins are very polished and fine, the bramble and blueberry fruit is leafy, yet sweet. Very well balanced Humberto Canale Cabernet Franc Gran Reserva 13.5%, Río Negro, Drink: More deeply coloured and backward than the same winery s Merlot, this is less advanced too. It s fresh, light and well balanced with fine, grainy tannins, refreshing tealeaf and blackcurrant fruit and enough concentration to develop gracefully in bottle. Another good value wine from Humberto Canale Kaiken Corte 14.5%, Agrelo, Drink: This youthful and innovative blend of Malbec, Bonarda and Petit Verdot is the brainchild of Chilean winery, Montes. It s unusual, but it s also rather successful: subtly oaked, brambly and aromatic with the tannins from the 8% Petit Verdot adding some backbone and muscularity La Chamiza Martín Alsina Malbec 14.9%, Mendoza, Drink: Super charged, inky Malbec aimed at the ultra premium market, this is thick, dense and concentrated with plenty of smoky oak, bags of violets and black fruits and a smooth, supple texture. Possibly a little bit of a me-too, but there s no denying the seriousness of the wine. Page 37