A SMALL GUIDE TO THE BIG EASY
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- Shavonne Stone
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2 A SMALL GUIDE TO THE BIG EASY To understand New Orleans requires a bit of love for intangibles like independence, pride, flavor, aroma, rhythm, stories and quirks. You may need a patient ear to understand the accent and a keen eye to notice the gingerbread millwork on quaint cottages; black iron balusters; slowly spinning, magnolia-blade fans; lacework curtains filtering the humidity; funky storefronts; and intoxicating honeysuckle and azaleas. To light your way, here are our favorite local restaurants, shops and points of interest. You ll find all of these on our fully interactive map at FMSlovesNewOrleans.com.
3 01 COFFEE CULTURE There is a local coffee culture in this city that is unmistakable. Fuel your city stomp with a chicory café au lait and beignet. FMSlovesNewOrleans.com
4 MAMMOTH ESPRESSO Cute, quaint, sunny and very hip, with a rotating cast of featured espressos MOJO COFFEE HOUSE Try the Cajun Caramel Mocha in this laid-back collegiate space COFFEE FRENCH TRUCK Order the NOLA fully dressed, an iced New Orleansstyle coffee shaken with milk and sugar CHERRY ESPRESSO Perhaps the best coffee in the city and woman-owned HiVOLT COFFEE Cool place to order bulletproof-style coffee THE ORANGE COUCH Cozy up with local writers and artists for Thai Tea or Vietnamese iced coffee SPITFIRE COFFEE Where the French Quarter wakes up SOLO ESPRESSO Some of the best coffee in the city, and a casual choice when you re in the Bywater
5 02 LET'S EAT We re hungry already, just thinking of all the exceptional food that you can only get here, like Dat Dog s crawfish hotdog, Galatoire s Trout Meunière, and Gulf oysters on the half-shell at Casamento s. Here s our pared down list of need-to-know restaurants to take you from sunup to sundown. FMSlovesNewOrleans.com
6 You can t do New Orleans without beignets puffy French doughnuts. Nothing beats sitting outside, sipping chicory brew through slightly gritty grounds, and devouring a little paper plate of warm, airy beignets dusted with confectioner s sugar. BEIGNETS CAFÉ DU MONDE Don t miss this No. 1 tradition in the center of the French Quarter MORNING CALL In the heart of City Park, you can sit on the deep porch overlooking live oaks CAFÉ BEIGNET Less hectic than other places, with tasty beignets LA PETITE GROCERY A more savory option, these beignets are served with blue crab and mango sauce BOULIGNY TAVERN Try the savory gouda beignet
7 BRUNCH When you want a leisurely, full morning meal, check out our favorite bright spots to rise and shine with omelets, to be sure, but also grillades and grits, flaky pastries, pain perdu (you know, French toast), bananas Foster and of course more beignets. WILLA JEAN There s a biscuit situation going on here, with some nicelooking fried chicken too THE RUBY SLIPPER CAFÉ Worth the wait at this beloved standby BRENNAN S RESTAURANT Try the bananas Foster or eggs Benedict BISCUITS & BUNS ON BANKS Where else can you enjoy crawfish étouffée? ELIZABETH S Oh, let it be the praline bacon SATSUMA CAFÉ Fair-trade coffee and great juices, plus green eggs and ham (pesto-scrambled eggs with local ham and Swiss on a croissant)
8 UPPERLINE Modern, upscale Creole cooking PECHE SEAFOOD GRILL Local fisherman s fare from a coal grill HERBSAINT Airy, outdoor seating for lunch, dinner or just dessert N AWLINIAN DINNER COQUETTE Innovative, locally sourced cuisine like catfish dip and snapper paired with hand-crafted cocktails GALATOIRE S One of the country s oldest dining rooms, a jacket is required; Friday lunch is like a fab cocktail party DOOKY CHASE S Southern hospitality, defined; the head chef is Disney s inspiration for Tiana JUAN S FLYING BURRITO Creole tex-mex; it s a thing LILETTE French and stylish, ooh la la BALISE Modern cooking in a spooky restored house ANTOINE S Enjoy history and charm in the oldest (since 1840) French-Creole restaurant in New Orleans
9 GUMBO Rethink rice. New Orleans has turned it into an icon, melding andouille, chicken, shrimp, crab, okra and of course rice into a thick and spicy roux. DOOKY CHASE S Try a spot-on bowl at this classic gumbo spot HERBSAINT Homemade dark roux in a bowl of wonder LIUZZA S BY THE TRACK A slow-simmered, handed-down recipe CAFÉ AMELIE Courtyard seating and maybe the best gumbo in town KATIE S A beloved neighborhood spot for big bowls of gumbo and chargrilled oysters
10 Seafood plays a big part in the cuisine of New Orleans. Here are a few favorite places to find the best, but it s really offered just about everywhere! SEAFOOD DEANIE S SEAFOOD Old-school and no frills PECHE SEAFOOD GRILL An award-winning seafood grill with global influences but NOLA roots SUPERIOR SEAFOOD & OYSTER BAR On the streetcar line, featuring NOLA classics CASAMENTO S Vintage charm and guys shucking oysters out front PASCAL S MANALE Buttery, spiced barbecue shrimp is a local specialty BEVI SEAFOOD CO. Choose Bevi s for boiled crawfish, shrimp and crab
11 PO' BOYS Legend says that when streetcar workers went on strike, the poor boys were given free sandwiches of fried oysters, crawfish, chicken, roast beef or anything else you could slab between two slices with a little melted butter, pickles or gravy. PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Classic-style since 1911; a neighborhood hangout KILLER PO BOYS The name says it all GUY S PO BOYS Eat your grilled shrimp po boy at the counter, cash only DOMILISE S Serving massive po boys at the counter since 1924 LIUZZA S BY THE TRACK A hollowed out sub roll is stuffed with New Orleans style barbecue shrimp CRABBY JACK S Try the slow-roasted duck with fried green tomatoes
12 When you want something tasty and casual, it s hard to go wrong with a sandwich from an unforgettable shop that s totally unique to NOLA. SANDWICHES DAT DOG All different kinds of hotdogs, like crawfish, alligator, and duck, plus the usual suspects TURKEY AND THE WOLF Well-made, over-the-top sandwiches like fried homemade bologna and lamb neck roti CENTRAL GROCERY Muffalettas with provolone, lots of cured meats, olive salad and vinaigrette on a sesame bun COCHON BUTCHER With a Nashville location too, this spot cooks all manner of meats in-house, piled high on sandwiches with spicy mustard
13 BURGER JOINTS A great burger is a great burger, no matter what city you're in and New Orleans is no exception. Grab a griddle-cooked burger and salty fries while you re out and about at these hamburger hotspots. THE COMPANY BURGER Order the Company Burger: two thin patties with cheese, plus amazing homemade mayo COWBELL A neighborhood vibe with a killer cheeseburger, veggie burger and harvest burger DORIS METROPOLITAN A gourmet burger from an upscale steakhouse in the heart of the French Quarter HIGH HAT CAFÉ We suggest the pimento cheeseburger LA PETITE GROCERY Try a fancy LPG cheeseburger with a pickle jar
14 WILLA JEAN With a name like that, you know she bakes a mean cookie; try the chocolate-espresso cookies, Nutella morning buns, buttermilk biscuits or griddled banana bread DISTRICT DONUTS Yummy donut slider variations plus rotating specialty donuts like PB&J SWEET TREATS BON TON CAFÉ We like the bread pudding PRALINES BY JEAN Pralines for eating and toting home HANSENS SNO-BLIZ Fluffy shaved ice, like a sno-cone, but so much better, with homemade syrups and a line out the door TABLEAU Crème Brulee on a beautiful second-story balcony overlooking Jackson s Square COMMANDER S PALACE Bananas Foster, flambéed tableside; add this to your can t miss NOLA bucket list
15 03 HAVE A DRINK In New Orleans, pretty much every day is Fat Tuesday. Start with Bourbon Street, aptly named, for a Hurricane or Sazerac, a local specialty and the first original American cocktail. FMSlovesNewOrleans.com
16 ARNAUD S FRENCH 75 BAR A great choice of drinks creatively directed by worldclass bartender Chris Hannah OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE Try this 200-year-old saloon for quirky cocktails COCKTAILS BEACHBUM BERRY S LATITUDE 29 Among the best of the new bars in America run by Tiki historian Jeff Beachbum Berry CAROUSEL BAR & LOUNGE Inside the fascinating Hotel Monteleone, this is the birthplace of the Vieux Carre cocktail PAT O BRIEN S If you re going to go to Bourbon Street, this is the place to go; dueling pianos and the birthplace of the hurricane CURE An incredible speakeasy-type atmosphere with James Beard, award-winning cocktails BAR TONIQUE In a spooky old house, classic cocktails are $5 nightly BARREL PROOF Whiskeys are the specialty here; try a flight, or stick with their unbeatable Old-Fashioned TWELVE MILE LIMIT A dive with really creative cocktails, like the Baudin with bourbon, lemon, honey and Tobasco
17 AL FRESCO Sometimes you just need to relax in the open air with a bit of bubbly or a sip of wine. These spots will do the trick. BACCHANAL This wine bar with a sprawling backyard feels like you re at a cool friend s house, who just happens to be a musician TREO In Mid-City, the backyard is huge and casual; a great place to enjoy happy hour in good weather N7 This wine bar feels like you re on a movie set tucked behind a tall fence THE COLUMNS HOTEL Sip on the deep porch of this historic mansion and watch the streetcars hum by on St. Charles BAYOU WINE GARDEN Sister bar to Bayou Beer Garden; their backyards sidle up to one another
18 When only a tall glass of ice cold suds will do, these brew houses are the best spots in the big easy. BREWS BAYOU BEER GARDEN Sister bar to Bayou Wine Garden, with more than 180 beers offered PARLEAUX BREWERY LAB This is a local favorite with old standbys to more creative spins; local food trucks often pop up too THE BLACK PENNY A laid-back bar for visitors and locals that serves a remarkable selection of only canned beers AVENUE PUB 50 taps of American craft beer and many of the best imports, and they are open 24 hours; named one of the top 100 beer bars in America
19 04 THINGS TO DO Son of a gun, we ll have big fun on the bayou. No matter where you explore in New Orleans, you ll be drawn to the easy-going culture of the city. Take in the sights and sounds and drink in that N awlins low-key, experimental vibe. FMSlovesNewOrleans.com
20 Everyone knows New Orleans is the birthplace of jazz. Catch some hot Dixieland jazz at any of these venues, or maybe just a musician playing for free on the street corner. MUSIC D.B.A. Live music with lots of beer on Frenchmen Street FRITZEL S EUROPEAN JAZZ PUB Traditional New Orleans Jazz and dancing THREE MUSES Great jazz and good food IRVIN MAYFIELD S JAZZ PLAYHOUSE Expensive, great jazz on Bourbon Street PRESERVATION HALL A cornerstone of New Orleans music and culture owned by a tuba player, BYOB SNUG HARBOR JAZZ BISTRO Just off the beaten tourist path on Frenchmen Street MAPLE LEAF BAR Uptown, with a rebirth brass band weekly GASA GASA Small and intimate with up-and-coming artists
21 STREET BEAT Take a stroll down St. Charles. Mingle with the nonconformists on Magazine Street (find Magazine painted on the street to snap a sharp #shoestagram). Or buy your next masterpiece on Gallery Row. These famous streets and neighborhoods are not to be missed. JACKSON SQUARE The iconic St. Louis Cathedral and the center of the French Quarter BOURBON STREET Like New Orleans Times Square, such a spectacle MAGAZINE STREET Funky shops, restaurants, cafes and people-watching ROYAL STREET Known for antiques; parts are pedestrian only FRENCHMEN STREET You might just see a brass band playing on the corner PRYTANIA STREET Peek at tons of fabulous old houses on a led or self-guided tour ST. CHARLES AVENUE Sprawling oak trees and opulent mansions
22 New Orleans is a little weird, and that s a good thing. Absorb the offbeat artifacts at the city s many museums. MUSEUMS THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM MUSEUM OF DEATH THE SYDNEY AND WALDA BESTHOFF SCULPTURE GARDEN Just behind City Park with free admission LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM AT THE CABILDO A 200-year-old building where the Louisiana purchase was made AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN & INSECTARIUM Inspect an insect, and then eat some at the café after seeing the museum
23 FUN OUTINGS What to do if you only have one day in New Orleans? EAT! Still have a little time left? Take a quirky tour. What to wear in New Orleans? (#OOTD) Thin layers. Hunt for shade. Think cooling thoughts. Temper spirits with lots of water. SWAMP AND BAYOU BOAT TOUR NEW ORLEANS DRUNK HISTORY TOUR GARDEN DISTRICT WALKING TOUR Mansions and Lafayette Cemetery STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ Hop aboard for a two-hour jazz cruise STREETCARS ON ST. CHARLES WHITNEY PLANTATION Less than an hour outside the city lies a beautifully restored plantation, acclaimed by NPR, that now serves as a museum honoring Louisiana s slaves
24 If you delight in the dark and macabre, you'll get your fill here. Enjoy these famously haunted spots that capture the spirit of creepy. Just don't go it alone. CREEPY THINGS MARIE LAVEAU S TOMB Allegedly St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, but there is some disputing that NAPOLEON S DEATH MASK At the aforementioned Cabildo Museum NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM MYRTLES PLANTATION This bed and breakfast lies on a burial ground, haunted by two poisoned children LALAURIE MANSION Tour the most haunted place in the French Quarter, if you dare HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS
25 05 SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP Whether you re looking for a Matisse or a pie bird, a vintage sweater or an umbrella, here s where to gather your souvenirs from a remarkable journey. FMSlovesNewOrleans.com
26 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS NOLA-inspired prints, clothes, décor, local brands and magazines APPARTIQUE SHOP MIETTE ASHLEY LONGSHORE STUDIO GALLERY This Instagram-famous artist works on commission KAWAII NOLA So that s where to pick up a pastel pink, bobbed wig M.S. RAU Antiques on Royal Street FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS Where the author once lived KREWE Quirky, artistic eyewear with a coffee bar, a reading room, and complimentary access to the shaded courtyard BAMBI DEVILLE S VINTAGE CLOTHING STONEFREE Kinda like Anthropologie FRIEND Men s clothing collabs with local artists NEON HEART Small, cool, unknown brands
27 06 CALL IT A NIGHT Stay in style. Order a drink to your room, or take your drink to the gym. You ll be right at home at any one of these boutique hotels that at once both enchant and bewitch. FMSlovesNewOrleans.com
28 INTERNATIONAL HOUSE HOTEL Everything is oversized at this beaux-arts gem HENRY HOWARD HOTEL Take your bed and breakfast in a gorgeous mansion CATAHOULA HOTEL Cool bar, cozy without being cramped, pool, tiki bar and super cool-looking HIT THE HAY LOFT 523 A minimalist s dream and boutique hotel with a concierge menu of favorite haunts ACE HOTEL Like its NYC sister, but art deco-ish PONTCHARTRAIN HOTEL Rest spot of Tennessee Williams, who said America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco and New Orleans LE PAVILLON HOTEL Dates back to the Gilded Age, with free PB&Js in the lobby nightly, and a fabled ghost history THE ROOSEVELT HOTEL Waldorf Astoria luxury
29 230 Franklin Road Suite 806 Franklin, TN FMSlovesNewOrleans.com
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