H. Douglas Goff. Richard W. Hartel. Ice Cream. Seventh Edition
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1 Ice Cream
2
3 H. Douglas Goff Richard W. Hartel Ice Cream Seventh Edition
4 H. Douglas Goff Department of Food Science University of Guelph Guelph, ON, Canada Richard W. Hartel Department of Food Science University of Wisconsin Madison, WI, USA ISBN ISBN (ebook) DOI / Springer New York Heidelberg Dordrecht London Library of Congress Control Number: Springer Science+Business Media New York 2013 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, speci fi cally the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on micro fi lms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. Exempted from this legal reservation are brief excerpts in connection with reviews or scholarly analysis or material supplied speci fi cally for the purpose of being entered and executed on a computer system, for exclusive use by the purchaser of the work. Duplication of this publication or parts thereof is permitted only under the provisions of the Copyright Law of the Publisher s location, in its current version, and permission for use must always be obtained from Springer. Permissions for use may be obtained through RightsLink at the Copyright Clearance Center. Violations are liable to prosecution under the respective Copyright Law. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a speci fi c statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. While the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication, neither the authors nor the editors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility for any errors or omissions that may be made. The publisher makes no warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein. Printed on acid-free paper Springer is part of Springer Science+Business Media (
5 Preface We are pleased to present the seventh edition of the long-standing title, Ice Cream. The fi rst edition was written by Prof. Wendell S. Arbuckle of the University of Maryland and published in Prof. Arbuckle had joined Prof. J. H. Frandsen in coauthoring Ice Cream and Related Products in Frandsen was the senior author of two other ice cream books in 1915 and So, the lineage of this book can be traced back to the infancy of the industrial ice cream industry. Prof. Arbuckle published subsequent editions in 1972 (second), 1977 (third), and 1986 (fourth), before his death in In 1996, Prof. Robert T. Marshall of the University of Missouri completely revised the Arbuckle manuscript and published the fi fth edition under the names of Marshall and Arbuckle. We (H. D. Goff and R. W. Hartel) joined Prof. Marshall to prepare the sixth edition, published in 2003, under the names of Marshall, Goff, and Hartel. Prof. Marshall has since retired, leaving us to prepare the seventh edition. We have completely revamped this edition. Every chapter has been rewritten, updating with state-of-the-art knowledge and new references as appropriate. Material has been realigned to make what we feel is a more coherent presentation. New chapters on ice cream structure (Chap. 11) and ice cream shelf life (Chap. 12) have been added. We have made the book suitable for an international audience by converting completely to SI units, although we indicate the equivalent US unit as appropriate, and we have incorporated international production and consumption data, legislation information, and global industry practices. Both of us have been involved in ice cream research for 25 years. Prof. Goff has also been teaching ice cream courses at the University of Guelph and in various places around the world for 25 years. This book re fl ects our combined knowledge. We have maintained the focus on science and technology of ice cream. We do not present any information about marketing, retailing or restaurant operations. The book is intended for people with a science and technology background, or at least those who want to learn more of the technical aspects of ice cream production. It is intended for anyone involved in the industry, from Research and Development, Quality Control, or Manufacturing in large-scale operations right through to smallscale entrepreneurs who want to understand the principles behind the product they v
6 vi Preface are making. Suppliers to the industry should gain a tremendous insight into the complexities of the product, the functional roles of the ingredients, and the manufacturing and cleaning processes employed by the industry. And, of course, it is for students, both Undergraduate students who are learning about ice cream, perhaps with the intention of entering the industry some day, and Graduate students who are furthering our knowledge with their research. The students of today are the industry leaders of tomorrow. We dedicate this edition to our own students who have contributed thousands of hours to ice cream science. This edition has been a year in the making and much family time has been consumed, so sincere appreciation is extended to our families without whose support and encouragement we would not have accomplished our goals. We also gratefully acknowledge all of the contributors to various chapters. Guelph, ON, Canada Madison, WI, USA H. Douglas Goff Richard W. Hartel
7 Contents 1 The Ice Cream Industry... 1 Introduction... 1 The Changing Characteristics of the Industry... 2 Production and Consumption Trends... 3 A Brief History of Ice Cream... 9 Overview of Ice Cream Composition and Manufacture References Composition and Formulations Introduction Descriptions of Commercial Frozen Desserts Ice Cream and Related Products Fermented Products Sherbets and Related Products Ices and Related Products Novelties Drinks Complexities of Composition Energy Value and Nutrients Energy (Caloric) Content Protein Content Fat Content Carbohydrate Content Mineral Content Vitamin Content Palatability and Digestability The Balanced Mix Nutrition Labeling Based on Composition Reference vii
8 viii Contents 3 Mix Ingredients Introduction Composition of Milk Fat Ingredients Milk Fat Nondairy Fats Fat Replacers Milk Solids-Not-Fat/Protein Ingredients Concentrated Milks Dried Skim and Whole Milk Whey Products Milk Powder Blends Other Milk Solids-Not-Fat Ingredients Nondairy Protein Ingredients Sources of Water Potable Water Milk, Skim Milk, and Buttermilk Sweeteners Sucrose: Crystalline and Liquid Corn Sweeteners Maple and Brown Sugars Honey Sugar Alcohols Nonnutritive Sweeteners Stabilizers Characteristics of Individual Stabilizer Ingredients Ice Structuring Proteins Propylene Glycol Monoesters Emulsifiers Characteristics of Individual Emulsifier Ingredients Mineral Salts References Flavoring and Coloring Materials Introduction Vanilla Natural Vanilla Flavor Consistency in Vanilla Quality Artificial Vanilla Flavor Vanilla Ice Cream Chocolate and Cocoa Processing Cocoa Beans Chocolate Ice Cream Preparing Chocolate Syrup Chocolate Confections
9 Contents ix Flavoring Ingredients Color in Frozen Desserts Particulate Inclusions Fruits Nuts Bakery Pieces Candy Pieces Variegates Ice Cream with Complex Flavors Defects in Flavoring Systems References Mix Processing and Properties Introduction Mix Processing Combining the Ingredients Pasteurization Homogenization Aging Packaging for Sale Flavoring Physical Properties of Mixes Mix Stability Density Acidity of Mixes Mix Viscosity Interfacial Characteristics Freezing Point Specific Heat Ice Cream Defects Originating from Mix Composition References Calculation of Ice Cream Mixes Introduction Mix Formulation Software Mathematical Processes most Frequently Used Standardizing Milk and Cream Algebraic Mass Balance Use of the Pearson Square for Standardizing Cream and Other Milk Products Mix Formulation Calculations Mix Decisions Simple Mixes Complex Mixes Restandardizing Ice Cream Mixes
10 x Contents Freezing Point Depression Calculations Freezing Point Depression of a Mix Freezing Curves Overrun Calculations Determining Manufacturing Overrun by Volume, no Particulates Determining Manufacturing Overrun by Volume, with Particulates Determining Package Overrun by Weight, no Particulates Determining Mix Density Determining Target Package Weights, no Particulates Determining Target Package Weights, with Particulates References Freezing and Refrigeration Introduction General Freezing Operations Types of Freezers The Continuous Freezer Operating the Continuous Freezer Freezer Controls Commercial Freezers Sanitary Design of Ice Cream Freezers Start-Up and Shut Down of a Continuous Freezer Freezer Outlet/Ice Cream Piping Continuous Ingredient Feeders The Batch Freezer Operation of the Batch Freezer Filling Containers from a Batch Freezer Other Freezer Types Cryogenically Frozen Products Shaving Devices Consumer-Frozen Shelf Stable Products Refrigeration Refrigeration Principles Types of Refrigerants Primary Refrigerants Secondary Refrigerants Combined Refrigeration Mechanical Refrigeration Operating Principles Evaporator Systems Defrosting Methods Compressors Condensers Operating Precautions
11 Contents xi Multistage Refrigeration Systems Calculation of Refrigeration Loads Terms Used in Refrigeration References Soft-Frozen Dairy Desserts Introduction Soft-Serve Mix Composition Freezers for Soft-Serve and Shakes Cleaning and Sanitizing Soft-Serve Freezers The Heat Treatment Freezer Soft-Serve Blended Products Reference Novelty Products and Ice Cream Cakes Introduction Cup, Cone, and Sandwich Products Molded Products Ice and Fudge Stick Items Enrobing Chocolate Coatings Application of Coatings Extruded Products Ice Cream Cakes and Multi-Portion Products Reference Packaging, Hardening, and Shipping Considering the Package The Packaging Operation Bulk Packaging Packaging for Direct Sale to Consumers Economy in Packaging Operations The Hardening Process Changes During Hardening Factors Affecting Hardening Time Types of Hardening Facilities Precautions to Observe in the Operation of Hardening and Storage Rooms Handling, Storing, and Shipping Distribution Systems Shipping with Dry Ice References Ice Cream Structure Introduction Microstructural Elements Serum Phase Ice Crystals
12 xii Contents Destabilization of the Fat Emulsion Air Cells Hydrocolloid Phase Behavior Effects of Structure on Physical Properties Thermal Diffusivity Meltdown Properties Rheological/Mechanical Properties Conclusion References Shelf Life Ice Cream Storage and Distribution Mechanisms for End of Shelf Life Ice Recrystallization Air Coarsening Shrinkage Lactose Crystallization and Sandiness Gumminess Flavor Conclusion References Cleaning and Sanitizing for Microbiological Quality and Safety Introduction Planning for Product Safety Microbiological Quality and Safety Microbiological Standards Incidents of Pathogenic Contaminations in Ice Cream Raw Ingredients Processing and Environmental Considerations Recalls Cleaning Procedures Functions of Detergents in the Dairy Major Detergent Components and Their Functions Cleaning Methods Sanitizing Procedures Controlling and Monitoring Plant Sanitation Sanitary Environment Hygienic Personnel References Analyzing Frozen Desserts Introduction Chemical Analyses Fat Protein Moisture and Total Solids
13 Contents xiii Lactose and Minerals Multicomponent Instrumental Methods Acidity Other Tests for Chemical Components Microbiological Analyses Sampling for Microbiological Tests Microbiological Test Methods Physical Analyses Fat Globule Size Distributions in Mix Freezing Point of Mix Viscosity of Mixes Density of Mixes Adsorbed Protein to Fat Globules in Mix Phase Separation in Mix Overrun and Volume in Ice Cream Hardness of Ice Cream Fat Destabilization in Ice Cream Meltdown of Ice Cream Ice Crystal and Air Bubble Size Distributions in Ice Cream Sensory Analyses Considerations for Effective Sensory Evaluation of Frozen Desserts Sensory Methods The ADSA Scoring System and Quality Defect Recognition References Formulations for Specialty Products Introduction Light, Low-Fat, and Nonfat Formulations Flavoring Low-fat and Nonfat Frozen Desserts No-Sugar-Added and Sugar-Free Formulations Reduced-Lactose and Lactose-Free Ice Cream Gelato Frozen Yogurt Sherbet The Composition of Sherbet Defects Water Ice Sorbet Non-dairy Frozen Desserts References Index
14
lee Cream SIXTH EDITION Robert T. Marshall UniverJity of Missouri-Columbia Co/umbia, MisJouri H. Douglas Goff
Ice Cream lee Cream SIXTH EDITION Robert T. Marshall UniverJity of Missouri-Columbia Co/umbia, MisJouri H. Douglas Goff Univmity vi Guelph Wellingum. Onlario, CanaM and Richard W. Hartel Univer5it)" vi
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