ANTI-FRIZZ. Polyplant fruits ,51210,

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1 ANTI-FRIZZ Polyplant fruits ,51210,

Polyplant Fruits Polyplant Fruits contains extracts form: Raspberry, Apple, Peach, Kiwi, Papaya, Cucumber and Strawberry. Raspberry BOTANY Scientific name Rubus idaeus, family Rosaceae.

2 Polyplant Fruits Polyplant Fruits contains extracts form: Raspberry, Apple, Peach, Kiwi, Papaya, Cucumber and Strawberry. Raspberry BOTANY Scientific name Rubus idaeus, family Rosaceae. This plant grows better in temperate than in warm climates. Greeks found wild growing raspberries in Mount Ida (hence its scientific name). From Greece, this plant spread into Italy, the Netherlands, England and finally, into North America. It is a cm bush that grows on stony or granitic soils. The plant has a short underground stem, which annually emits upright branches (tillers) that live for two years. These tillers grow during their first year of life; during their second year, they give flowers and fruits; eventually, they die and are replaced by new tillers. Flowers appear in simple terminal bunches. They are greenish-white or pink. The fruit, called raspberry, is made up of many convex, rough, aggregated drupes, which can be easily distinguished. Most commonly, raspberries are red or yellowish. The part used of raspberry is its fruit ,51210,

3 CHEMISTRY Raspberry chemical composition is showed in table 1. Constituent TSS * (%) 13.9 Total sugars (%) Acidity (%) Ascorbic acid (mg/100g) Carotene (mg/100g) Thiamine (mg/100g) Riboflavin (mg/100g) Nicotinic acid (mg/100g) Minerals (%) 0.5 Phosphorous (mg/100g) 22 Potassium (mg/100g) 168 Sodium (mg/100g) 1.0 Calcium (mg/100g) 22 Magnesium (mg/100g) - Tabla 1. Chemical composition of strawberry.tss * = Total Soluble Solids.(Kotecha & Madhavi, 1995) ,51210,

4 Apple BOTANY Pyrus malus L. or Malus communis Poir., family Rosaceae. The apple tree is one of the longest known fruit trees for humankind. This tree can be found in the wild, although most of them grow in cultivation. It grows up to ten meters tall and 2 meters in diameter. The leaves are oblong and toothed, downy on the underside. The flowers are white or pink, clustered in corymbs. The flowering season occurs in May. The fruits are drupes with a fleshy mesocarp, called apple. The part used of apple tree is its fruit. CHEMISTRY Carbohydrates are the principal food constituents in apple, with starch and sugars the aviable carbohydrates and pectin, cellulose, and hemicellulose the unaviable fractions. Total carbohydrates in fresh apples account for about 15%, comprising % each of fructose and glucose; and % sucrose ,51210,

5 Organic acids are among the most important constituents in apples. The primary acid in the fruit is malic, although others such as citric, lactic, and oxalic are also present. Fresh apple with skin contain about 0.19% protein. The proportion of different amino acids shows that aspartic acid and glutamic acid are the predominant amino acids in apples, followed by lysine and leucine. Fresh apples contain 0.26% ash content. Potassium constitutes the main portion of the total mineral contents of apple, and it accounts for more than 40% of the total ash. Phosphorous and calcium are the next most prevalent minerals in the apple fruit. Ascorbic acid (5.7 mg/100g tissue) and vitamin A (5.3 mg/100 g tissue) are the main portion of the total vitamin contents of apple. Apple contains several classes of phenolic compounds, including hydroxycinnamic derivatives, flavonols, anthocyanins, dihydrochalcones, monomeric flavan-3-ols, and tannins. The major phenolics identified in apple fruit are quinic aacid, epicatechin, quercetin-3-o-β-d-galactopyranoside, phloretin-2-o-glucoside, and cyaniding-3-galactopyranoside (Kaushal & Sharma, 1995) ,51210,

Peach BOTANY Peach, Prunus persica, is mainly cultivated in temperate regions. This tree is generally small, thin and slender, with fine sharp-pointed deciduous leaves, pink 5-petals flowers.

6 Peach BOTANY Peach, Prunus persica, is mainly cultivated in temperate regions. This tree is generally small, thin and slender, with fine sharp-pointed deciduous leaves, pink 5-petals flowers. Peach trees are native to China; there exists a huge amount of peach varieties. The fruit is a drupe, with a single large seed encased in hard wood, yellow or whitish flesh, a delicate aroma, and a velvety skin that bruises easily. The seed is red, oval shaped and cm thick. Peaches, along with cherries, plums and apricots, are stone fruits (drupes). The part used of this tree is its fruit ,51210,

7 CHEMISTRY Table 2 shows the chemical composition of peach. Constituent Average range Moisture (%) Sugars (% wt. basis): Total Reducing 2.45 Nonreducing 6.35 Proteins (%) Fat (%) 0.3 Fiber (%) 1.2 Dry matter (%) Titratable acids (% malic acid) 0.63 Minerales (%) 0,8 Tiamina (μg/100g) 0,02 Riboflavina (mg/100g) 0.04 Niacin (mg/100g) 0.5 Vitamin C (mg/100g) 1-27 Minerals (mg/100g edible portion) Magnesium 21 Sodium 2.0 Potassium 453 Copper 0.06 Sulfur 26.0 Chlorine 0 Calcium 15 Phosphorus 41 Iron 2.4 Oxalic acid (mg/100g) ,51210,

8 Phytin P (mg/100g) 1.0 Phenolics (g/100g fresh wt.) Carotenoids (%) White flesh cvs Yellow flesh cvs Leucoanthocyanin (mg/100g) Table 2. Chemical composition of peach (Joshi & Bhutani, 1995) ,51210,

Kiwi BOTANY Actinidia chinensis. Actinidiaceae family. Its common name is kiwi. The plant is a vigorous, deciduous climber that grows to about 9 meters in height, tolerating full sun or semi-shade.

9 Kiwi BOTANY Actinidia chinensis. Actinidiaceae family. Its common name is kiwi. The plant is a vigorous, deciduous climber that grows to about 9 meters in height, tolerating full sun or semi-shade. The scented flowers are insect pollinated and appear in summer. Individual flowers are dioecious (either male or female, but only one sex is found on any one plant, so both male and female plants are required for fruit production). The egg-shaped fruit, commonly known as kiwi, has a furry, brown skin and firm, translucent, emerald green flesh with numerous small, edible, black seeds at the centre. When ripe, it is very juicy with a refreshing acid flavour.the part used of this tree is its fruit. CHEMISTRY Table 3 shows the chemical composition of kiwi ,51210,

10 Constituent Content (mg/100 g fresh weight unless otherwise specified) Fiber % Soluble solids 12-17% Pectic compounds Lipid Mucilage 150 Chlorophyll Protein % Carbohydrate 15-18% Organic acids 2-3% Titratable acidity (ac citric) % Ash Tannin Oxalate 84 Vitamins Ascorbic acid Thiamin Nicotinic acid Vitamin E 0.13 Vitamin A 0.05 Riboflavin Pyridoxine (B 6 ) 0.15 Minerals Potassium Chloride Calcium Magnesium Zinc Manganese Nitrogen ,51210,

11 Phosphorous Sulfur Sodium Table 3.Chemical composition of kiwi (Kotecha & Madhavi, 1995) ,51210,

12 Papaya BOTANY Carica papaya L. is a member of the Caricaceae family, commonly known as papaya. Rather than a tree, it can be considered a giant herbaceous plant, due to its fast growth and short life span of 7-15 years. Although the plant can reach more than 10m tall, it only gives fruit during the first few years. The stem is fleshy rather than woody, simple, unbranched, with scars from fallen leaves and green leaves confined to the top. Leaves are large, with long petioles, palmatinerved, deeply lobed with seven large palmate leaflets, which are in turn pinnate. This plant is usually dioecious, with male and female flowers on different stems. However, they may also be monoecious, with both male and female flowers on the same stem. Also polygamous plants occur, which produce male, female and hermaphrodite flowers. Only the 2 later types of plant give fruit. Male flowers are creamy-yellow and occur on hanging bunches. Female flowers are solitary, or arranged in short inflorescences; they are creamy-yellow and larger than male flowers. There are three types of hermaphrodite flowers: female-like flowers, male-like flowers and flowers with intermediate features. The part used of this tree is its fruit ,51210,

13 CHEMISTRY Table 4 shows fresh papaya chemical composition. Components Content Water (%) 89.6 Proteins (%) 0.5 Fat (%) 0.1 Carbohydrates (%) 9.5 Calcium (mg/100 g) 10.0 Phosphorus (mg/100 g) 10.0 Vitamin A (IU/100 g) 2020 Vitamin C (mg/100 g) 40 Nicotinic acid (mg/100 g) 0.2 Riboflavin (mg/100 g) 0.25 Table 4. Chemical composition of fresh papaya (Desai, UT & Wagh, AN, 1995) ,51210,

Cucumber BOTANY Cucumis sativus L.. Family Cucurbitaceae. It is an annual herb that grows up to 1-4 m. The stem is generally creeping, the leaves are simple, alternate, rough and petiolate.

14 Cucumber BOTANY Cucumis sativus L.. Family Cucurbitaceae. It is an annual herb that grows up to 1-4 m. The stem is generally creeping, the leaves are simple, alternate, rough and petiolate. The flowers are unisexual, yellow and large. The fruit is an elongated whitish-green pepo.it has a number of ovoid, flattened, whitish, point-ended seeds with smooth edges. The part used of this plant is its fruit. CHEMISTRY The used parts of this plant are the fruits and the seeds. The main components of the cucumber fruit are water (95-97%), proteins ( %) and small amounts of lipids, reducing sugars and sucrose. Small proportions of other components have been isolated from fresh cucumber, such as adenine, arginine and trigonelline. This green fruit also contains traces of iron, manganese, cooper, zinc and arsenic. It also 51200,51210,

15 contains vitamins such as vitamin C, carotene and thiamine. Cucumber seeds contain manganese, vitamin A and enzymes. Their active principle is cucurbitin, in proportions of 0.5-2% ,51210,

Strawberry BOTANY Fragaria ananassa. Comon name, strawberry. This plant is a perennial herb from temperate climates, nowadays cultivated in Europe and America.

16 Strawberry BOTANY Fragaria ananassa. Comon name, strawberry. This plant is a perennial herb from temperate climates, nowadays cultivated in Europe and America. This plant has a short stem with a rosette of trifoliate leaves. It can reproduce by runners, which are ground or underground stems growing from a lateral sprout of the main stem. These buds give rise to aerial stems and adventitious roots, which can be dissected from the runner to give a new plant. For cultivation purposes, this plant is considered a biannual, with old plants being replaced by new ones after two years. Flowers and fruits appear on a stem that emerges from an axillary sprout. Every flower is born from a bract; flowers have five or more green sepals, five white petals, many stamens and a vaulted receptacle with an indefinite number of pistils. Every pistil becomes an achene; the fruit results from the aggregation of several achenes. The part used of this plant is its fruit ,51210,

17 CHEMISTRY Strawberry chemical composition is showed in table 5. Constituent TSS * (%) 10.2 Total sugars (%) 5.0 Ascorbic acid (mg/100g) 89 Carotene (mg/100g) 0.15 Thiamine (mg/100g) 0.03 Riboflavin (mg/100g) Nicotinic acid (mg/100g) 0.6 Minerals (%) 0.5 Phosphorous (mg/100g) 23 Potassium (mg/100g) 161 Sodium (mg/100g) 1.5 Calcium (mg/100g) 22 Magnesium (mg/100g) 11.7 Table 5. Chemical composition of strawberry (Kotecha & Madhavi, 1995). TSS * = Total Soluble Solids ,51210,

18 COSMETIC PROPERTIES Polyplant Fruits is a blend of different fruit extracts in a balanced combination of active compounds designed to achieve a product with moisturizing, antiaging and emollient properties. Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) regulating activity The moisturizing activity of Polyplant Fruits is due to its carbohydrates and α-hydroxyacids (AHA) content. Carbohydrates are active principles widely used in cosmetics. Monosaccharides are hygroscopic, namely they are able to adsorb water and consequently maintain the moisture level of the horny layer. Oligosaccharides have the same property. These active compounds act by forming hydrogen bonds, preventing massive water loss and stopping dehydration. Additionally, some of these compounds form a protective film on the skin, preventing and slowing down transepidermal water loss. Most AHA are physiologic, natural, and non-toxic substances. All members of the group promote normal keratinization and desquamation. Those with multiple hydroxyl groups are moisturizing antioxidants, and are especially gentle for sensitive skin (Yu RJ & Van Scott EJ, 2002). Thus, Poluplant Fruits is recommendable to formulate cosmetic products with moisturizing action that smoothes the skin. Antioxidant activity Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant with radical scavenging activity very useful in the treatment of photoaging. Vitamin C has photoprotective properties similar to those of vitamin E. Vitamin C can neutralize free radicals generated by UVB radiation. A study using pigs revealed that a pre-treatment with vitamin C 10% reduced UVB-induced erythema and skin burn. In a further study, ascorbate also exerted similar protective effects against UVA radiation; it reduced the skin burns of pigs previously sensitized with psoralen and exposed to UVA. Other experimental models using human skin demonstrated similar effects for ascorbate as well as for the combination of ascorbate and vitamin E (Chiu A. & Kimball AB., 2003). Therefore, Polyplant Fruits is highly recommendable to formulate cosmetic products aimed at preserving the skin and hair integrity from oxidative processes ,51210,

19 Collagen synthesis stimulating activity Jouandeaud M. et al. (2004) evaluated the oligosaccharides activity in vitro. They observed that oligosaccharides were involved in the synthesis of major skin components, the type I collagen fibers, and that they prevented the degradation of the extracellular matrix by reducing the activity of metalloproteinase-1. Vitamin C, or L-ascorbic acid, also acts as a co-factor in the collagen synthesis. Vitamin C is essential for proline hydroxylation to occur. Consequently, it is essential to produce and maintain the integrity of collagen. Different studies have demonstrated that it can directly stimulate the collagen synthesis by activating the transcription of the pro-collagen mrna and stabilizing it. Additionally, vitamin C reduces the production of metalloproteinase enzymes in the extracellular matrix (metalloproteinases stimulate collagen degradation in the dermis). In a study carried out with human volunteers, vitamin C 5% was applied on one of their forearms and placebo on the other, during a 6 months treatment. Skin biopsies of the forearms treated with vitamin C showed increased mrna synthesis for collagen I, collagen III and the extracellularmatrix metalloproteinase 1 inhibitor. Interestingly, the best results were observed in those subjects who followed the poorest vitamin C diets (Chiu A. & Kimball AB., 2003). The collagen synthesis stimulating activity gives vitamin C wound-healing properties useful to treat injuries from traumatisms, skin burn or surgery. It is also beneficial for new tissue formation. Therefore, Polyplant Fruits is recommendable to formulate anti-ageing and epithelising/firming cosmetic products. Cell regeneration stimulating activity This activity is due to the α-hydroxyacids (AHA) content of Polyplant Fruits. AHA act at the stratum corneum level. They act on the cohesion between corneocytes in the deepest layers, so that they make the stratum corneum thinner and improve skin flexibility. Thus, Polyplant Fruits is recommendable to formulate cosmetic products with exfoliating activity. Whitening activity Many of the fruits present in Polyplant Fruits have considerable amounts of ascorbic acid and citric acid that give it a considerable capacity to inhibit tyrosinase enzyme (Alcalde MT & Del Pozo A, 2002; Robot Roca A, 2006) ,51210,

20 Therefore, Polyplant Fruits is recommendable to formulate cosmetic products with whitening activity. Activity on the hair shaft Nojiri M. et al. (2004) observed that damaged hair shafts had pores that gave the hair a rubbery appearance. These authors developed a technology based on AHA and solvents to eliminate the pores in the hair shafts. They used bleached straight hair samples from Japanese volunteers. The hair shafts were immersed into an aqueous solution with 4% malic acid, 10% benzyloxyethanol (BOE), and 15% ethanol, at 40ºC for 20, 40 or 60 minutes, and subsequently cleared with water. Besides improving the appearance of the hair, this AHA-based technology allowed to keep the hairstyle for a long time, even under humidity conditions. The action mechanism was different from the habitual polymer-based technology. It has been proposed that the strong hydrogen bonds between the malic acid anion and the NH segments of hair proteins are the basis for the long lasting hairstyle duration attained with the AHA treatment. This novel technology allows for hair fixation without loosing the natural texture. Therefore, Polyplant Fruits is of great use to formulate hair care cosmetic 51200,51210,

21 COSMETIC APPLICATIONS Action Active Cosmetic Applications TEWL regulating Antioxidant Collagen synthesis stimulating Carbohydrates AHA Vitamin C Carbohydrates Vitamin C -Moisturizing -Emollient -Anti-ageing -Photo-protection -Hair color protection -Epithelising/firming -Anti-ageing Cell regeneration stimulating activity AHA -Exfoliating Whitening Vitamin C AHA -Whitening Acts on the hair shafts AHA -Hair care RECOMMENDED DOSE The recommended dose is between 0.5% and 5.0%. BIBLIOGRAPHY Alcalde MT & Del Pozo A. Despigmentantes (III). OFFARM, 2002; 21 (1): Chiu A. & Kimball AB. Topical vitamins, minerals and botanical ingredients as modulators of enviromental and chronological skin damage. Br J Dermatol., 2003; 149: Joshi & Bhutani. Peach In Handbook of Fruit Science and Technology. Production, Composition, Storage, and Processing. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc., 1995; p: (ref. 641* SAL) ,51210,

22 Jouandeaud M. et al. The Influence of Oligosaccharides on Skin Aging: An Alternative to Retinoids. C&T, 2004; 119 (6): (ref. 6652). Kotecha & Madhavi. Berries In Handbook of Fruit Science and Technology. Production, Composition, Storage, and Processing. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc., 1995; p: (ref. 641* SAL). Nojiri M. et al. A novel tecnology for improving hair setting ability and its mechanism. J. Cosmet. Sci., 2004; 55 (Supplement): Papaya In Handbook of Fruit Science and Technology. Production, Composition, Storage, and Processing. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc., 1995; (ref. 641* SAL). Ribot Roca A. Despigmentantes. Acofar, 2006; nº457; p: [ Yu RJ & Van Scott EJ. Hydroxycarboxylic acids, N-acetylamino sugars, and N-acetylamino acids. Skinmed., 2002; 1 (2): Desai, UT & Wagh, AN ,51210,

23 PROVITAL. S.A. Pol. Ind. Can Salvatella Gorgs Lladó, Barberà del Vallès Barcelona (España) Tel. (+34) V06-02/ ,12310,12340,12350,12710,

Fragaria ananassa L. It is a member of the Rosaceae family. It is commonly known as strawberry.

Strawberry BOTANY Fragaria ananassa L. It is a member of the Rosaceae family. It is commonly known as strawberry. It is a perennial plant of the Rosaceae family which sprouts every year. Its leaves and