Trimbach is at the summit of dry white winemaking. Clive Coates MW. Trimbach. Alsace (Ribeauville)

Size: px

Start display at page:

Download "Trimbach is at the summit of dry white winemaking. Clive Coates MW. Trimbach. Alsace (Ribeauville)"

Lewis Bates
5 years ago
Views:

is at the summit of dry white winemaking. Clive Coates MW With viticultural origins going back as far as 1626 this family owned estate produces some of the finest dry wines of Alsace.

25 ha of Rosacker Grand cru (which produces their most highly famed Clos St Hune Riesling) as well as parcels of Geisberg and Osterberg (blended to make the equally renowned Riesling cuvee Frederic

1 is at the summit of dry white winemaking. Clive Coates MW With viticultural origins going back as far as 1626 this family owned estate produces some of the finest dry wines of Alsace. From prime sites based around the villages of Ribeauville and Hunawihr, the family own 52 hectares of vineyards including 1.25 ha of Rosacker Grand cru (which produces their most highly famed Clos St Hune Riesling) as well as parcels of Geisberg and Osterberg (blended to make the equally renowned Riesling cuvee Frederic Emile). Geisberg and Osterberg are located on the hill rising up behind the family winery on the edge of Ribeauville where the family moved to in the 1890 s having moved from the smaller neighbouring village of Hunawihr. The label of Clos St Hune depicts the view to the church of Hunawihr from their previous premises in Hunawihr. The style of wines produced by are harmonious wines that are concentrated, not heavy; fruity, not sweet; bracing rather than fat; polite rather than voluptuous. Fermentations are cool and slow, the wines removed from their lees and maloloactic fermentation avoided. The wines are filtered fined and bottled early to preserve the freshness of the fruit and dry Rieslings are made with less than 5 gms residual sugar and dry Gewurztraminer less than 10 gms. The wines are then aged in cellar for at least one year and up to 5 years or more for the top wines. Even the richer vendages tardive and SGN wines are made with more restrain than is usual with VT Rieslings often carrying gms and VT Gewurztraminer around 50 gms and SGN from 100 gms. s wines rightly rank among the worlds very best. Classic wines 2016 Pinot Blanc stelvin closure Bright straw. Delicately honeyed white stone fruit aromas and flavors. Lively and zingy, boasting good concentration of flavor and a delightful lingering fruity juiciness. A really delicious Alsace Pinot Blanc that offers plenty of early appeal. As is common in Alsace, despite being labeled as Pinot Blanc, it is actually about 80% Auxerrois and 20% Pinot Blanc. 91 Vinous Media April Pinot Blanc stelvin closure (80% Auxerrois and 20% Pinot Blanc): Clean and fresh yet dense and rich but less heavy than the Auxerrois wines of many producers, offering honeyed and spicy flavors of white and yellow stone fruit (this is about 80 percent Auxerrois). The warm, dry 2015 vintage shows through, and in fact Jean told me that this reminds me of the 2009, another warm year, but this has more density. 90 Vinous Media Feb Riesling stelvin closure Bright straw-green. Peony, mirabelle and mint on the enticing nose. Crisp and fresh in the mouth, with very high but harmonious acidity nicely shaping the ripe flavors of peach and lychee; is there just a trace of super-ripe grapes thrown in the blend here? Manages the neat trick of tasting lemony fresh and very light on its feet while delivering sneaky concentration and depth. Outstanding entry-level Riesling wine. 91 Vinous Media March Riesling stelvin closure Bright straw-yellow. Green apple, white flowers and a note of powdered stone on the nose and palate. Juicy, spicy and nicely delineated, finishing with lovely mineral tang and lemony acidity. Perhaps not quite as rich and round as s 2013 Riesling but just as pure. This is made from mainly purchased grapes, but as no Cuvée M was made in 2014, that wine ended up in this Riesling (it fermented to completion and ended up being too dry and austere, so Pierre and Jean decided to declassify it). 89+ Vinous Media February 2016 Reserve wines on following page and more Reserves and Grand cru wines follow

From prime sites based around the villages of Ribeauville and Hunawihr, the family own 52 hectares of vineyards including 1.

2 The Reserve quality is the result of a rigorous selection of fully-ripe grapes from the Ribeauvillé region. With viticultural origins going back as far as 1626 this family owned estate produces some of the finest dry wines of Alsace. From prime sites based around the villages of Ribeauville and Hunawihr, the family own 52 hectares of vineyards including 1.25 ha of Rosacker Grand cru (which produces their most highly famed Clos St Hune Riesling) as well as parcels of Geisberg and Osterberg (blended to make the equally renowned Riesling cuvee Frederic Emile). Geisberg and Osterberg are located on the hill rising up behind the family winery on the edge of Ribeauville where the family moved to in the 1890 s having moved from the smaller neighbouring village of Hunawihr. The label of Clos St Hune depicts the view to the church of Hunawihr from their previous premises in Hunawihr. The style of wines produced by are harmonious wines that are concentrated, not heavy; fruity, not sweet; bracing rather than fat; polite rather than voluptuous. Fermentations are cool and slow, the wines removed from their lees and maloloactic fermentation avoided. The wines are filtered fined and bottled early to preserve the freshness of the fruit and dry Rieslings are made with less than 5 gms residual sugar and dry Gewurztraminer less than 10 gms. The wines are then aged in cellar for at least one year and up to 5 years or more for the top wines. Even the richer vendages tardive and SGN wines are made with more restrain than is usual Reserve wines 2015 Riesling Reserve ml Made mostly with estate grapes from the grand cru Rosacker and the Mulforst lieu-dit in Hunawihr, which Pierre believes should have been classified grand cru. Pale straw. White stone fruit, botanical herbs and crushed stone on the perfumed nose. Dense, rich and juicy, displaying clean mineral nuances to the mirabelle and apple flavors. Long, lemony and fresh on the zingy finish. Made with roughly 40-year-old vines historically used to make the Réserve (from vineyards around the towns of Ribeauvillé, Hunawihr and Bergheim). This will go on sale toward the end of 2017, as the estate is still currently selling its Vinous Media March Riesling vieilles vignes Subdued, delicate aromas of lime, green apple, wet stone and tarragon. Soft and supple on entry, then turns more taut in the middle and finishes suave, dry and long, with bracing yellow apple and fresh herb flavors but no sharp edges. This youthful wine will need plenty of bottle age to reach optimal drinkability. does not produce this selection every year (recently, it was made in 09, '11, '12 and '14), only when there are enough high-quality grapes to make it without compromising the quality of the Réserve bottling. In fact, this wine is almost always a little richer and deeper than the Réserve. 91+ Vinous Media Feb Pinot Gris Reserve ml Intriguing aromas of lemon, green apple, pear and smoke are lifted by notes of lavender and cinnamon. Supple yet quite bright in the mouth, showing good acid cut to the juicy flavors of ripe pear, baked apple and sweet spices. Finishes very dry and pure, with noteworthy persistence and an impression of high acidity. I found this to be extremely lemony ("at 2 g/l residual sugar and roughly 7 g/l total acidity, this is the driest Pinot Gris I have ever made, admitted Pierre ). Vinous Media Feb Pinot Noir Reserve Made in tank with no use of oak used for maturation. Bright vivid medium red colour. Aromas of wild strawberry, cherry and spices lead to a fresh medium weight palate showing lively red fruits and excellent inner-mouth perfume and a very light dusting of tannins to close. A fresh medium bodied style for drinking within the next few years. Reserve Personelle wines on next page and Grand cru wines on 4th page

providing a new guarantee of quality and authenticity for in 1898.

The average age of the vines, 45 years, results in limited yields.

3 Like Clos Ste. Hune, Cuvée Frédéric Emile has astonishing aging capacity Reserve Personnelle wines 2009 Riesling Frederic Emile ml This wine is named for Frédéric Emile who became famous for providing a new guarantee of quality and authenticity for in The south and south-east facing Ribeauvillé terroirs Geisberg and Osterberg which overlook the winery have been producing this wine for several generations. The average age of the vines, 45 years, results in limited yields. Citrus zest, fruit pit, huckleberry, and white pepper lend s 2009 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile an aromatic piquancy and tactile bite that allied to an oily texture might pull a bit too much in a bitter direction were it not for a satisfying and far from vintage-typical abundance of exuberantly juicy lime, tangerine, and kiwi. A high-toned aura of pit fruit distillate hovers over the entire performance. Crushed stone and alkaline mineral notes add depth to an invigoratingly and tenaciously lingering finish. This ought to perform admirably in the classic Frederic Emile role for at least years. (Incidentally, it s bone dry, at 13.5% alcohol.). 92 David Schildknecht erobertparker.com May Riesling Frederic Emile 750ml (13% alcohol; 9 g/l total acidity; 3 ph; 1 g/l residual sugar): Pale straw-green. Captivating, perfumed nose of yellow peach, fresh flowers, green apple, chlorophyll and talc; this is almost Mosel-like. Then fresh and saline in the mouth; juicy and dense, with laser-like acidity and wonderful clarity and cut to its white stone fruit and apple flavors. Finishes long and minerally, with a zesty edge that will leave your mouth watering. A mesmerizing riesling. This vintage features one of the lowest levels of residual sugar has ever had in their Frederic Emile. Both of the brothers feel that 2008 is the greatest vintage for the Frederic Emile between 2005 and 2009, but I think that may be selling this wine short. To my taste, this is one of the top ten Frederic Emiles ever. 94+ Vinous Media September Riesling Frederic Emile 750ml ( s 2007 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile the driest rendition ever of this cuvee, at well under a gram of residual sugar, yet with nearly eight grams acidity can definitely use the time it will receive in bottle before being released in late 2011 or early 2012! If this year s reserve Riesling flirted with austerity, the Frederic Emile risks severity. That said, its arrow-like penetration and sharpness; its adamant stoniness; and its citrus zest and cherry pit bitterness, are allied to formidable density; bracing salinity; deep, marrow-like meatiness; a subtle suggestion of textural creaminess; and an overall impression of exhilarating, vibrant refreshment. 92 David Schildknecht erobertparker.com April Pinot Gris Reserve Personelle 750ml Bright yellow. Sexy peach, strawberry nectar and orange oil on the perfumed nose. Rich, powerful and dry; this currently uncompromising wine is much bigger, richer and rounder than the Pinot Gris Réserve. It's almost sweet by s standards (7 or 8 g/l residual sugar) but has enough lively acidity to age well. The bright finish features delicate floral reminders. Not obviously better than the Pinot Gris Réserve today, but it surely will be in time. 91 Vinous Media Feb Gewurztraminer Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 750ml + 375ml for 2011 vintage Produced from old vines from the former wine estate of the Lords of Ribeaupierre in Grand cru Osterberg (and also from the village of Hunawihr from Rosacker and Muhlforst which adjoins Rosacker). The grapes are selected and harvested at the peak of their ripeness. It is a wine with flowery and spicy aromas and a dry personality, and yet so rich and so fruity that it almost hints at sweetness a mere illusion. Fresh lime and its zest lend the 2008 Gewurztraminer Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre a rather Riesling-like aura, while a hint of sweetness supports its notes of litchi and melon, which fruit pit and citrus peel bitterness helps to balance-out for a virtually dry finishing impression. Full and rich I can see why the decision was taken not to let it ferment below 13 grams of residual sugar this evinces fascinating low-tones of smoked meat, peat, and clove in a persistent, if faintly warm finish. 90 David Schildknecht erobertparker.com May 2011 Grand cru wines on next page and sweet Vendanges Tardives and SGN wines follow

Clos St Hune, the Alsace Riesling by which all others are judged Andrew Jefford Grand Cru wines 2013 Riesling cuvee M (from Grand cru Mandelberg) Medium-dark yellow.

Fat and rich in the mouth, with fine-grained peach and exotic fruit flavors showing compelling sweetness and complicated by a strong note of marzipan.

4 Clos St Hune, the Alsace Riesling by which all others are judged Andrew Jefford Grand Cru wines 2013 Riesling cuvee M (from Grand cru Mandelberg) Medium-dark yellow. Lemon zest and anise complicate ripe tropical fruit aromas on the nose. Fat and rich in the mouth, with fine-grained peach and exotic fruit flavors showing compelling sweetness and complicated by a strong note of marzipan. Not particularly closed for a young Riesling, but the long, powerful finish suggests this will age well. Preiss-Henny used to make great wines from these vines, and the family was happy to buy them up over the years. Mandelberg is an exceptionally warm site, and its Rieslings are more tropical and forward than most in Alsace, with a strong note of ripe pineapple. 91+ Vinous Media February Riesling Schlossberg Grand cru Dark straw-yellow. Violet, grapefruit and minerals on the explosive, complex nose. Enters large and soft, offering flavors similar to the aromas, then linear and very precise, with a tactile mouthfeel and a beautiful lemony finish. This tastes very dry, which is a good thing with Schlossberg wines - they usually aren t blessed with the highest total acidity values, and when too much residual sugar is left, the wines often end up tasting flabby. 93 Vinous Media March Riesling Geisberg Grand cru Pale straw-yellow. Very deep aromas of apple cider, stone fruits, jasmine and loam aromas are perked up by lemon and lime nuances. Big, deep and dense but with bracing acidity giving shap to the licorice and loam flavors. The long finish features hits of pear compote and pepper and a repeating suggestion of apple cider. 91 Vinous Media April Riesling Clos St Hune The average age of the vines in Clos St Hune is about 50 years with the oldest vines being 70 yo. Clos St Hune is located in Rosacker Grand cru. Golden straw-yellow. Delicate but very deep and closed nose offers scents of green apple, ginger, white peach, lemon and smoke. Quite brooding today but already conveys sneaky concentration to its rich, gingery stone fruit and fusel flavors. Finishes dense and rich, but fresh, harmonius acidity and a saline edge keep the wine light and lively on the palate. This vintage of Clos Ste. Hune is marked by an especially strong diesel fuel note, which Pierre believes is only minimally due to the warmer vintage and more so to the terroir. Moreover, believes that with the increased use of gentler presses in the region, this early-onset fusel smell in Riesling wines will become less and less common. I am not a huge fan of petrolly young Rieslings, so I find this wine tough to judge today. But I do think this will be one of those vintages in which the quality difference between the Frédéric Emile and the CSH will turn out to be minimal. 92+ Vinous Media April Riesling Clos St Hune Deeper pale green than the Frederic Emile. Very spicy aromas of green apple, chlorophyll and thyme. Enters with lime and green apple notes, then turns riper and richer in the middle, showing more exotic banana and passion fruit qualities with air. Finishes very fleshy, saline and long. This is bigger but not obviously better than the 2011 Frederic Emile and struck me as a rather salty, chunky version of CSH. 93 Vinous Media February 2016 Vendanges Tardives and SGN wines on following page

This firm has no ambition to be the biggest in Alsace: merely the best.

But then, it had already reached 13.7% alcohol. A remarkable nose vegetarians beware!

mirabelle preserves; white Burgundy-like toasted brioche; and hints of brown spices. This is a meal unto itself, and for all of its amplitude reveals a sense of buoyancy.

5 This firm has no ambition to be the biggest in Alsace: merely the best. Clive Coates MW Vendanges Tardives and Selection Grains Nobles wines 2008 Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardive The 2008 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive is, at 60 grams residual sugar, unabashedly and for a V.T. surprisingly sweet. But then, it had already reached 13.7% alcohol. A remarkable nose vegetarians beware! suggests smoked pork, sauteed veal sweetbreads, and truffle-studded foie gras, and the palate is just as sinfully rich as the nose implies, encompassing as well a honeyed intensity of quince and mirabelle preserves; white Burgundy-like toasted brioche; and hints of brown spices. This is a meal unto itself, and for all of its amplitude reveals a sense of buoyancy. But it will take many years for the sense of sweetness to significantly back-off. One could certainly plan on following this for a quarter century. 93 erobertparker.com May Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardive Bright golden-tinged yellow. Pure lemon, minerals and honeyed mango on the knockout nose. Very pure and elegant, offering flavors of grapefruit, menthol and candied violet. Finishes long and clean, displaying a delicate flintiness and a ripe honeyed note. Luscious and precise, but doesn t seem especially sweet (though at 65 g/l residual sugar, this is no slouch in the sugar load department). Lovely balance from start to finish and will likely prove very ageworthy. Made with practically only passerillé (airdried) grapes, with little or no noble rot to speak of (and personally I miss the added dimension that Botrytis cinerea adds to the overall equation). From essentially the same parcels that are used to make the Gewürztraminer Cuvée des Seigneiurs de Ribeaupierre, plus the parcels of vines owned by a local farmer with whom the s have a long association. 93+ Vinous Media March Gewurztraminer Hors Choix SGN The intensely golden-yellow 2008 Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles 'Hors Choix' opens with a fascinatingly pure, fresh, precise and concentrated, exotic and elegant nose. It has perfectly ripe peach, buttercup, ginger and lime-zest flavors intermixed with spicy and peppery aromas. Full-bodied, round and highly delicate on the palate, this is a concentrated, firmly structured, fresh and complex sweet wine with fine tannins and a long, fresh and mineral finish. The 2008 'Hors Choix' was bottled with 13% alcohol and is a great, tension-filled and spicy gastronomic sweet wine with terrific grip and stimulating freshness. The 2008 drinks nicely today, but can be aged for decades. 97 Stephan Reinhardt erobertparker.com July Gewurztraminer Hors Choix SGN The 2007 Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles Hors Choix represents a cuvee designation that the s also utilized in 1989 and 2000 for wine of near Esszencia-like richness. Essence of rose petal along with mirabelle preserves, mint candy, and brown spices on the nose are joined on a thickly-rich palate by honey, chocolate, and white raisin. Yet for all of its richness and gaudy, candied set of flavors, this preserves a juicy sense of leavening and refreshment in a finish of extraordinary persistence, its sweetness not in the least cloying. This should be a 50 year wine. 96 David Schildknecht erobertparker.com April Riesling Frederic Emile SGN This 2001 Riesling Frederic Emile Selection de Grains Nobles was harvested during the last possible days (before heavy rain) in early November. Apple jelly and plum preserve, honey and almost Gewurztraminer-like brown spices inform the nose. Surprisingly fat and broad on the palate for a Riesling, its ample acidity hidden, and with enormous concentration of baked apple, plum paste, malt, brown spices, and honey that never threatens to turn cloying or heavy. It is probably hiding more than it is revealing today. Only 1,800 bottles were produced, and hopefully few will be opened before The Geisberg is seldom conducive to noble rot due to its ventilation, but in both 2000 and 2001 it was possible to pick S.G.N. 94 David Schildknecht erobertparker.com Feb (made from the third of three passes through 's holding in the grand cru Geisberg, on November 5) Pale medium-gold color. Exotic yellow fruits, roasted pineapple and white raisin on the nose. Hugely sweet but sappy, pure and focused. A large-scaled fruit bomb, with penetrating spice and caraway seed notes and electric acidity. Not at all overly sweet at 74 grams/liter residual sugar. A brilliant example of the ineffably pure botrytis of this vintage: even at SGN ripeness, this is still clearly identifiable as riesling. In the past couple of decades, this wine has been made only in 1989, 1990, 2000 and There's always a breeze coming through the deep valley of Aubeure, notes Pierre, so it's rare that any kind of rot takes root on this fruit. 96+ Vinous Media November 2003

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar Print This Article Hugel et Fils Ian D'Agata ISSUE 165, NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012 "Two thousand ten was a small-production year due to flowering issues, and in Alsace there's almost always a problem with