BROWNE TRADING COMPANY N E W S L E T T E R

Transcription

1 Volume 5, Issue 1 SPRING 2014 BROWNE TRADING COMPANY N E W S L E T T E R B R O W N E T R A D I N G C O M P A N Y, P O R T L A N D M A I N E Spring 2014 NEWSLETTER In this Issue we celebrate and explore one of Maine s best seafoods the OYSTER. Learn more about its harvest, how to shuck, and how to prepare. Enjoy! ~Nick Branchina, Director of Marketing CONTENTS: Local Sourcing: MAINE OYSTERS MAINE OYSTER GUIDE ON OYSTERS by James Peterson Peterson s OYSTER Recipes How To Shuck Oysters 5 6 Belon Oysters 8 MAINE I S S U E A L L O Y S T E R S a r e n o t c r e a t e d e q u a l. A N D W E B E L I E V E T H A T T H E C O L D, P R I S T I N E W A T E R S & S H E L T E R E D T I D A L R I V E R S O F M A I N E M A K E O U R S T H E B E S T A N Y W H E R E I N T H E C O U N T R Y. It might surprise some that there are only five unique species of oysters in the United States and from Maine to the Gulf of Mexico, the champion is the common Eastern Oyster, or Crassostrea virginica. This Eastern Oyster has many different market names ( think Wellfleets Blue Points Dodge Coves etc) so named after where they come from, and while they are all the same species, each oyster differs from state to state and cove to cove. continued on page 3 BROWNE S POINT O Y S T E RS Our Own Browne s Point Oysters are Harvested in Maine Exclusively for Us For many years, Browne Trading has had the privilege of selling premium Eastern Oysters from our home state of Maine. Introduced in 2013, it is our pleasure to now offer our own Browne s Point Oysters. continued page 3

2 Page 2 B r o w n e T r a d i n g C o. MAINE OYSTER GUIDE Here are some of our favorite harvesters from around the state.

3 Page 3 Browne s Point Oysters (continued) The Browne Family is among the oldest in Maine. The first, Nathan Brown (b. 1723), emigrated from England to America in 1746, settling first in Massachusetts. His grandson, Loyalist Brown (b. 1774), built the family homestead around 1800 on what came to be known to all as Browne s Point in the center of Merrymeeting Bay on the Kennebec River in the town of Bowdoinham, Maine. It was his grandson, John Loyalist Browne, (the e was added to the family name during the Civil War) who first used the name Browne Trading for the family seafood business. Over two centuries later, Browne Trading Co. continues to source the best and freshest seafood from Maine. It is our great pleasure to finally offer our own Maine Oysters (Crassostrea virginica). Raised by the oldest oyster farm in the state of Maine, Browne s Point oysters are the best Selects handpicked at harvest to Rod Mitchell s specifications for best shape, cup, and size. Harvested from the cool waters of the Damariscotta River which for centuries drew Native Indians and early settlers to its waters to feast on the abundant oysters found there these oysters thrive in the clean river estuaries that draw nutrients from the tidal surges of the Atlantic Ocean. Browne s Point Oysters are Medium sized and have a superior flavor sweet and clean with a milder brininess than is often found in other Maine oysters. The shells are clean, robust, and commonly show striations of color on them. B M A I N E O Y S T E R S ( c o n t i n u e d ) But we contend that the coldwater Maine Oyster robust, deep cupped, textured and full of briny liquor are the best oysters anywhere. A LOOK BACK AT THE MAINE OYSTER The prehistoric middens (piles of ancient shucked oyster shells) that still dot some Maine riverbanks are a testimony to the abundance of wild oysters that once thrived in our waterways. These middens some the size of small hills date back over 2,500 years ago, when the indigenous Native People feasted on them in great numbers. But, about 1,000 years ago, scientists speculate that a combination of rising water levels, predation from marine snails known as oyster drills, and dramatically colder water temperatures all combined to decimate the native oyster population. Even the few surviving pockets were likely destroyed by manmade river pollution that started with the European settlement of coastal Maine, and the shipbuilding that took place along the riverways. It wasn t until the 1990 s, when a few daring aquaculturists introduced seed (cultivated juvenile oysters or spats ) back into sheltered river inlets that the Maine Oyster continued page 9 Sorting Oysters at Winter Point Oyster, West Bath, Maine

4 James Peterson On OYSTERS Page 4 The more oysters you eat, the more you ll learn to recognize your favorites. I m a fan of briny oysters, so I usually buy northern varieties from Maine, Cape Cod or Canada or West Coast oysters that are cultivated in relatively cold water and thus have a similar flavor to North Atlantic Oysters. When you buy oysters, make sure the shell is tightly closed. Unlike clams or mussels, which are usually all right if they gape a little, oysters must be tightly sealed or they will dry out. Watch also how the oysters are displayed. They should be kept flat on a bed of ice or in a refrigerator if they are left topsy turvy in bags, their briny juices will run out. Eastern Oyster from Maine. When you get your oysters home, arrange them in a refrigerator on a backing sheet or platter so they stay flat. Make sure they are upright with the flat shell on top. NEVER soak oysters in water in the way that is sometimes recommended for getting the sand and grit out of mussels and clams. Depending on how fresh they are to begin with, oysters will keep up to a week in the refrigerator, but I always try to use them as soon as possible. ~ James Peterson, from Fish & Shellfish ABOUT JAMES PETERSON and THESE RECIPES: Jim Peterson is a renowned food author whose fifteen cookbooks have earned him seven James Beard Awards. He is also an accomplished photographer and shoots his own pictures to illustrate his step by step processes for preparing his dishes. The recipes in this issue were conceived and shot by Jim especially for Browne Trading from his home studio in Brooklyn, NY in April of 2014 using the Maine Oysters, Halibut and Sea Urchin shown here were provided by Browne Trading. Learn more about Jim Peterson at his website and blog, and on our website ~ We are Indebted to Jim for his Contributions of Expertise, Time and Beautiful Photography. ~

5 How to Shuck an Oyster Page 5 When confronted with an oyster, you first have to shuck it. This takes a little practice until you get the knack. In order to shuck, equip yourself with an oyster knife with a blade about 3 inches long and a strong wooden or plastic handle. The blade should be blunt. ~ James Peterson Start by hold the oyster with the cup side down. This will prevent the liquor from escaping. Hold the oyster in a towel with your left hand in such a way that you re protected in case the blade slips. Insert the oyster knife into the hinge as far as you can go and give the knife a twist. Once you feel the lid give way, slide the knife under it, keeping the knife flush with the lid so that you don t leave any oyster attached. Here we didn t use the oyster shucking knife because it s bent on the end (it s designed this way) such that it won t stay flush with the lid. A shucked European (Maine Belon) oyster. (Learn more about Maine Belon Oysters on Page 8) When serving oysters on the half shell, some people like them attached to the bottom shell which ensures they re fresh. In the U.S., however, oysters are usually detached from the bottom shell before serving.

6 Simple Oyster Stew Page 6 I like this little stew because it s quick and easy to prepare, it s elegant and understated, and it s absolutely bursting with the flavor of the sea. ~ James Peterson Start by placing fresh shucked oysters into a bowl. Put a small amount of heavy cream into a small saucepan and bring it to a gentle simmer. Heat the cream until it comes to a bare simmer. Add the oysters and heat them just until they begin to curl around the edges. Don t let the cream come to a hard boil. Remove the oysters with a slotted spoon and transfer them to heated bowls. Simmer the cream slightly until it has the consistency you like. You don t want a thick sauce for an oyster stew. Reserve liquid if making the next recipe. Season with pepper to taste. Finished Dish of Oyster Stew with Maine Belon & Eastern Oysters.

7 Oysters with Sea Urchin Roe Page 7 When preparing sea urchins, the goal is to remove the bright orange roe. The roe can be eaten raw (atop these oysters it s fabulous) or it can be pureed and added to sauces as we do here over a piece of baked halibut. ~ James Peterson Begin with Whole Live Maine Sea Urchins. Start at the opening at the middle & cut with a pair of scissors until you get halfway down the side. Cut around the perimeter completely. Remove the urchin s lid. The orange uni (roe) of the sea urchin. Carefully remove the uni with a spoon. Creating Sea Urchin Roe Sauce OYSTERS TOPPED WITH UNI To use sea urchin roe in a sauce, work the roe through a strainer with a wooden spoon. Off the heat, whisk the roe into the poaching liquid from the oyster stew. Heat gently but don t allow to boil or the roe will curdle. MAINE OYSTER STEW THICKENED WITH SEA URCHIN SERVED ATOP BAKED HALIBUT

8 Page 8 MAINE s BELON OYSTERS Known more accurately as "The European Flat Oyster" (only true Belons come from the Belon River estuary in Brittany, France) these large oysters were transplanted to Maine decades ago. While local legend has it that they came from Europe in the bilge of ships and took root here long before we were a country, in truth they were deliberate transplants by scientists to the Boothbay Region in the 1950s. Here they were able to adapt to survive in Maine s cold waters and were able to reproduce and establish various Obviously, if you don t love life, you can t enjoy an oyster. beds throughout the Maine coast. Now found both wild and in limited aquaculture, the Belon is hand harvested in sub tidal coves and inlets where our Maine Rivers meet the sea. They flourish on harder, rocky bottoms in rivers such as the Damariscotta where they are actually harvested by divers who have limited access once the rivers and inlets freeze over. Unlike their cousins, Crassostrea virginica (Eastern Oyster), these oysters (Ostrea edulis) are rounder in shape, with very flat The Maine Belon shells and less pronounced cup, and grow much larger than the common Eastern oyster. Their resemblance to a small saucer has earned them the nickname Plates. Because their abductor muscle is weaker than the American oyster, Belons are banded to help them remain closed and stored cup down to retain their liquor. The creamy to light brown meat of these oysters is plump and substantial, with a big, pronounced flavor and metallic, coppery finish distinct but far less briny than Eastern Oysters, with a sweet to flinty overtone. They are coveted when served on the half shell, but their full flavor also serves well when cooked for stews or soups (cooked, their meat will turn an ivory color). While some consider the European Oyster the finest eating in the world, others find it an acquired and unique taste because it is so dissimilar in flavor to the smaller Eastern and Pacific oyster species. Wild Maine Belon Oysters are an allowable catch in Maine from mid September until mid June but are premium in October through May with colder water temperatures. Select farms in Maine are authorized to harvest year round, but are a true cottage industry with modest output. With so few harvested a year (estimated at no more than 5,000 a season), the Maine Belon is among the rarest oyster available anywhere. Eating Oysters in the Months Without an R - Is it Safe? B ~ Eleanor Clarke, The Oysters of Locmariaquer 1959 Eating Oysters in month s with out an R in them is perfectly safe. But this old adage (some believed it was first told to early Colonial settlers by the Native Americans) was based upon some very real factors. Oysters tend to spawn in early summer (May, June, July). Spawning generally makes the oyster flaccid and less palatable. These months are also the hot summer months, when warm water algae blooms are predominant. Lastly, in the days before refrigeration, oysters simply did not keep long out of water. All these issues however pose no threat with the modern commercial harvest of our oysters. Cultivated Maine oysters rarely spawn due to the cold water temperatures. Water Quality in the summer months is closely monitored for safety standards and no untested oyster would ever reach the marketplace. And of course, modern refrigeration keeps the oysters cold until served!

9 Page 9 MAINE OYSTERS (continued) was reborn. Today, Maine oyster farmers harvest well over an estimated 3 million oysters a year a number that doesn t even keep up with the growing regional and national demand. WHAT MAKES MAINE OYSTERS UNIQUE Oyster aficionados have coined a new term: meroir a play off terrior, loosely meaning a sense of place (land). Terrior is a term used to describe how the native environment, namely the soil, plays a role in the uniqueness of products grown from the land, foremost applying to wines but also coffee beans and even cheeses. Meroir (mer is French for sea) refers to the how attributes of water (temperature, nutrients, salinity, etc.) shape the individuality of each oyster site, and how oysters raised on the same river and of the same species can ultimately taste so distinct from one another. Of all the fish in the sea, the flavor of the oyster is the most uniquely tied to the place it is grown in. Many factors contribute to Maine s unique oyster meroir, beginning with its geography. Unlike the other coastal New England states for example Massachusetts Cape Cod Bay or Connecticut s shoreline on Long Island Sound Maine s coast is compromised of many long and rocky fingers that form estuaries where its many freshwater rivers collide into the Atlantic Gulf of Maine. Upriver, these jagged fingers house tidal coves ideal for raising oysters, providing shelter from Maine s strong tides, reducing the severity of the icing in the winter, and offering stable sea beds at optimal growth depths. The Maine oyster s coveted brininess is a product of the varying degrees of water salinity which stems from tidal flow, the site s proximity to the Winter Point Oysters ocean, and the varying levels of brackishness where the fresh river water meets the sea. The levels of briny flavor can therefore differ dramatically from oyster to oyster. Equally influential to the Maine oyster s uniqueness is the water which they are raised in foremost the water s temperature. Maine s frigid, clean ocean waters and strong tidal movement are ideal for moving plankton, nutrients and trace minerals necessary for oyster growth over the beds, and the purity of the cold waters minimizes diseases found in Southern warmer water oysters even as close as Southern New England. Oysters grow out much slower in these colder waters Maine oysters often take 3 4 years to make market size, whereas Gulf of Mexico oysters often only need a year and consequently mature to have a greater depth of flavor over time. Maine s waters are so cold that very often the water does not warm enough to trigger natural spawning, and the oysters have adapted to the cold conditions by storing glycogen essentially fattening up prior to a sort of winter hibernation making the Fall and Winter harvest among the most desirable as they become even more plump and sweet. The cultivated Maine oyster s adaptation to the cold, even freezing, waters results in harder shells with deeper cups the ideal served on the half shell delicacy. MAINE OYSTER FARMING Maine Oyster Farming is a boutique, small production, hands on business, and our harvesters take great pride and care in what they do. Due to continued page 10

10 Page 10 BROWNE TRADING S COMMITMENT TO RESPONSIBLE SUPPLY Browne Trading Company is committed to the purchase and supply of responsibly sourced seafood. We believe we can supply our customers seafood needs without compromising the future health of our oceans fish. To that end, we: B R O W N E T R A D I N G C O. 260 Commercial Street Merrill s Wharf Portland, Maine Phone: Fax: Service@BrowneTrading.com Sales : Sales@BrowneTrading.com Press : Nick@BrowneTrading.com It is our Goal to Offer Only the Finest Seafood and Caviars, Provide Exemplary Service to our Distinguished Clientele, Practice Responsible Seafood Sourcing and Continue the Pursuit of Perfection in our Business. Seek out wild fish harvested from State, Federal and Internationally Regulated Managed Fisheries designed to sustain the resource, with an emphasis on fish caught with low-impact fishing methods. Purchase farmed fish, shellfish, and caviars from best practice aquaculture facilities, with an emphasis on ecologically-minded farms with all-natural raising techniques. Support our local New England fleets, farms and fishing communities and uphold our long tradition of promoting Maine s pristine seafood. Believe that is our responsibility to inform and educate our customers about where their seafood comes from, with an emphasis on full traceability of product. We seek to empower all our customers to make seafood purchasing choices that best suit the needs of their kitchens. MAINE OYSTERS (concluded) the artisanal nature of these small farms, along with the harvest seasonality and long grow out periods necessary to raise oysters to market size, the annual demand for Maine oysters far exceeds the harvest. Consequently, they command high prices especially during the Summer months when vacationers are seeking out fresh New England seafoods. Currently there are only about 15 major growers in the state, although smaller, part time aquaculturists are on the rise. Most of these growers are actually family run companies sited on family land and leasing the tidal growing areas from the State of Maine. Production can be seasonal as many do not (or really cannot) harvest in the heavy depths of a Maine winter when the rivers have iced significantly and well below freezing air temperatures threaten the oysters out of water survival. While their methods may vary, all growers start with hatchery grown seeds (or spats) that are as small as a grain of sand. They are placed nursery upwellers until they mature to size (usually about the size of a quarter), and then are planted in beds on the river floor (some farmers float oysters instead in cages or racks, although this practice is much less common in Maine as it is in the Pacific Northwest). The oysters are allowed to grow to size, raked or even hand harvested during collection, and finally floated in wet storage prior to sale to purge the oysters of any grit. Oyster farming is a combination of patience, knowledge, and hard physical labor. Before being bagged, most oysters have their shells cleaned and are graded for quality and size by hand. Oysters are usually sold in sizes, with Cocktails being inches long, Selects about 3 4 inches, and Jumbos over 4 inches each. In Maine, the Damariscotta River estuary is the largest site for oyster growth, although not exclusively (see our Maine Oyster Guide). Oysters Companies name their products for the areas in which they are grown. Oyster farming is extremely low impact to the environment some suggest it can even be restorative as they grow all naturally and are filter feeders who can actual help clean the water. No matter the area or size, most Maine Oysters have strong, hard shells, plump and full meats, and the beautiful briny and sweet flavor of the clean sea. Often their merior can impart distinct flavors, ranging from slightly metallic to notes of citrus. They are a true local, all natural delicacy and uniquely Maine in flavor! B