The Successful Collector By Julian Hitner ~ Pauillac ground zero for collectors ~ Saturday, March 17 th, 2012 Not just three First Growths:

Transcription

1 Not just three First Growths: 1 Lafite. Mouton. Latour. By this measure alone, Pauillac should be considered the most significant appellation in Bordeaux. And rightly so. For claret collectors, there is no other place where there are three count them, three châteaux of such grandeur, such luxury, such expense; where compromise is forbidden, where the standard of each wine, each and every vintage, is scrutinized to obsession. But this column is not about the First Growths. To discuss them here would take up too much space, and other estates would not get their fair shake. No, this article is about Pauillac, that is, the commune, its terroir, and the many other non-first Growths that comprise it. At its simplest, Pauillac is one of four world-famous appellations on the Left Bank, bordered by St-Julien to the south and St-Estèphe to the north. With around 1,215 hectares (ha) of vineyards, the traditional blend is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, backed up by Merlot and small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Exact percentages shall vary from château to château. At its finest, Pauillac is the most Bordelaise of all claret. According to Hugh Johnson, It is the virile aesthete; a hypnotizing concurrence of force and finesse. For claret lovers, the wines of Pauillac represent the epitome of all that is illustrious about Bordeaux. Though neither as flattering nor as powerful as top St-Emilions or Pomerols, a great Pauillac is the most commanding of clarets, particularly in terms of intensity, weight, dimension, flavour, and aging capacity. When young, a typical Pauillac should exhibit forthright, inviting aromas of currants, blackberries, plums, black cherries, toasted oak, moderate mocha, pencil shavings, vanilla, and spice. These are the most common scents I have often had the pleasure of detecting

2 in a young Pauillac. As it matures, the same wine should exhibit more cedary overtones, laced with cigar boxes, tobacco, savoury nuances, and dried fruits. On the palate, generosity of the most important elements is key: body, flavour, finesse, structure, length all of these should be of the best sort. A Pauillac should never taste green (underripe), coarse, lean, loose, or excessively acidic. Such traits, undesirable in most wines, are inexcusable here. Granted AOC status in 1936, the boundaries of Pauillac are fairly easy to follow. Bordering the Gironde to the east, Pauillac is separated from St-Estèphe to the north by the Jalle du Breuil a jalle in the Médoc is a stream. The same partially applies in the south, where the Ruisseau de Juillac divides part of the commune between Pauillac and St-Julien; while the southwest borders of the appellation, along with the entire stretch of its western boundaries, are demarcated by specific vineyards. It should also be noted that there are a few vineyards allowed to be named Pauillac just beyond the official boundaries of the appellation. Like much of the Left Bank, the soils are based largely on gravel deposits, mixed with aeolian sands and clay (even limestone in the case of Lafite), which rise to form mounds, or croupes, in the landscape. These are among the closest geographical features that resemble hills in the Médoc, and constitute some of the most valued vineyards in Pauillac. Not surprisingly, most of these are owned by the First Growths, though Château Pontet-Canet also possesses vineyards that rise to 100ft (30m) Argentinean heights by Médoc standards. More than anything, these mounds, along with nearby streams, provide vineyards with invaluable drainage in times of excessive rainfall, such as during the troublesome 2007 vintage. Just as important is Pauillac s geographical situation. Located in a maritime climate, temperatures here, like the other major appellations of the Left Bank, are largely moderated by its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. This provides for mild winters and warm summers. At the same time, Pauillac is protected by the forests of the Landes du Médoc to the west from strong Atlantic salt winds and excessive precipitation. Finally, its proximity to the Gironde helps stabilize day/night-time temperatures and helps reduce the risk of frost. 2

3 But it takes more than great physical terroir to make great wine. What remains is the human element, the devotion of estate owners toward crafting the most outstanding wines possible. This is where Pauillac is particularly special, for few châteaux in Pauillac could ever be accused nowadays of slacking off, at least virtually none included in the 1855 Classification. When the 1855 Classification was established, eighteen estates in Pauillac were included. These are divided into three First Growths, two Second Growths (Châteaux Pichon-Longueville Baron and Comtesse de Lalande), one Fourth Growth (Duhart-Milon), and twelve Fifth Growths (Châteaux d Armailhac, Batailley, Clerc Milon, Croizet-Bages, Grand-Puy Ducasse, Grand-Puy- Lacoste, Haut-Bages Libéral, Haut-Batailley, Lynch-Bages, Lynch-Moussas, Pedesclaux, and Pontet-Canet). But after the First Growths, which ones are the best? Which are the estates whose wines most excite us collectors, us keen Bordeaux admirers? While personal taste does play a role, not to mention status within the 1855 hierarchy, there are arguably four châteaux that stand above the rest. Going by price, the first of these is Château Pichon-Comtesse (84ha). Bordering Château Latour (66ha) and possessing vineyards adjacent to St-Julien, this is generally considered the most feminine of Pauillacs, offering more fragrance and finesse than is typical of the appellation. Each year, whenever I have an opportunity of enjoying this wine, it is oftentimes impossible to tear myself away from my glass. Sometimes, however, its neighbour across the road crafts superior claret. This is Château Pichon-Baron (70ha), one of the most archetypal Pauillacs of them all. With one of the most beautiful châteaux in Bordeaux, Pichon-Baron seems to be getting fuller and sturdier with each passing vintage. And with continuous investment under its present owners, its future is well ensured. 3

4 Of equal acclaim is Château Lynch-Bages (100ha). A 4 Second Growth in everything but title, Lynch-Bages is a perennial favourite amongst Pauillac lovers and collectors. For decades, this incredible Fifth Growth has performed brilliantly even in poor years. Like Pichon- Baron, it is quintessential Pauillac, and refuses to rest on its laurels. Indeed, recent vintages seem to have witnessed a tightening-up of its structure and greater attention paid toward exacting greater complexity. The 09 was the best Lynch-Bages ever. Not to be outdone, Château Pontet-Canet (79ha) has improved by leaps and bounds over the past dozen years, nowadays matching Lynch-Bages for price, if not in quality. For me, Pontet-Canet has become one of the more magisterial of Pauillacs seamlessly concentrated, refined, and extremely smooth. Its flavour profile and texture are also unique, but this may have more to do with the location of its vineyards; the estate is located in the northern half of the commune. Along with Château Guiraud in Sauternes, this exceptional Fifth Growth is also the only Classified Growth to be certified biodynamic. After these four wineries, the style becomes a little less weighty, as does the price. Still, the profile largely remains the same, making for wines of unmistakable prowess, pedigree, and focus. On the top rung is Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste (55ha), yet another Fifth Growth placed at least two notches below its class. Owned by the same family as Château Ducru-Beaucaillou in St-Julien, this is a wine worth collecting year after year. Full-bodied, elegant, and Pauillac to the core, it is seldom overpriced.

5 Next comes Château Duhart-Milon (67ha). Owned by the 5 same family as Château Lafite Rothschild (the two châteaux are adjacent), prices for this wine have soared over the past several years. It was acquired by Lafite (100ha) in 1962, and essentially had to be rebuilt from scratch. With no expense spared, the wine now possesses a certain iron grip one cannot help but adore. Before the price becomes totally unreasonable, collectors should stock up. In the same vein, Château Clerc Milon (32ha) has a similar background. The estate was acquired in 1970 by its neighbour Château Mouton Rothschild (82ha), and like Duhart-Milon the vineyard had to be rebuilt from scratch. Once again, no expense was spared, and today the wines are better than ever: harmonious, finely balanced, and taut. Unlike Duhart-Milon, prices have remained steady. After these three estates, we arrive in my opinion at the next tier of Pauillacs. These are châteaux that, while not on the same substantive level as their more expensive counterparts, are nonetheless fully capable of providing immense pleasure. One of these is Château d Armailhac (50ha). Purchased in 1933 by its neighbour Mouton Rothschild, at claret tastings it is often shown alongside Clerc Milon. Often the lighter of the two, the wine typically contains a higher percentage of Cabernet Franc. Both the 05 and 09 are exquisite. In contrast to d Armailhac, Château Haut-Batailley (22ha) is about the most typical of Pauillacs one can find at this still-excellent of level of quality. With familial connections to Ducru-Beaucaillou, one might be surprised to learn that its wines are

6 usually tastefully priced. Indeed, taste is the operative word, for few young Pauillacs are as inviting or as gloriously mellow as a tall glass of Haut-Batailley. Similar in style is its neighbour Château Batailley (55ha). Like Haut-Batailley, though bordering St-Julien, there is nothing St-Julien about it. But any general similarities to Haut-Batailley end there, for Batailley is definitely the more tannic and reserved of the two. But the quality is there, and the wine ages extremely well. Sadly, the past decade has witnessed too many occasions where the wine has been overpriced. Before this, the wine was a staple for Pauillac lovers everywhere. A shame this has ended. Now and then, the same can be said of Château Haut-Bages Libéral (28ha). With vineyards bordering Château Latour, quality has steadily risen over the past dozen years. Classic Pauillac with an extra dimension of fragrance on occasion, Haut-Bages Libéral often does well in blind tastings. However, prices in top vintages can be dissuading. Rounding out this tier, we turn to Château Grand-Puy Ducasse (40ha). A real beauty in the best years, this estate continues to suffer from an identity crisis. This hasn t been helped by decades of poor quality, which only began to be remedied in the mid-1990s. Recent vintages, however, have shown what can be accomplished here. When done right, these are excellent mid-weight Pauillacs. Now for the remaining estates. To be fair, it would be of grievous error to dismiss these châteaux as unworthy of praise simply because they are being mentioned last. Over the past decade, some have worked hard to improve quality. And nowhere has this been more evident than at Château Lynch- 6

7 Moussas (55ha). Under the same ownership as Batailley, standards have quietly risen apace since the mid-1990s. In the best years, Lynch-Moussas now represents excellent value for money. Its Pauillac affiliations are self-evident, this in spite of possessing vineyards east of the commune. Château Pedesclaux (12ha) has also shown promise. The smallest of the Classified Growths in Pauillac, its principle market has traditionally been Belgium, but has recently begun appearing more regularly elsewhere. The lightest of all Pauillacs, this estate has shown notable improvement since the late-1990s. As prices have remained reasonable, this is a good introductory wine for enthusiasts just beginning to learn about Pauillac. Last but not least is Château Croizet-Bages (28ha). Neighbouring Lynch-Bages, recent improvements have not gone unnoticed. At best, the wines are appropriately tannic, Pauillac in disposition, and age well. If prices were lower, I d probably seek it out regularly. Such are the estates that make Pauillac great, the wines that collectors aggressively pursue year after year, along with a handful of non-classified Growths (ex. Château Pibran). Such wines represent the epitome of excellence in winemaking in this part of Bordeaux. They are the benchmarks by which so many wines from around the world, crafted from the same grapes, are both cultivated and judged. In short, they are the reason why Pauillac, ground zero for collectors, is so exalted and famed. Click here for a few gems from the Vintages 17 March 2012 Release along with several others A few gems for collectors: White Wines: Ballot Millot & Fils 2009, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot AOC, Burgundy, France: Exceptional white Morgeot of great vitality, balance, and focus, 7

8 collectors will find the outstanding 2009 Ballot Millot & Fils much to their liking. Pale-light lime in colour, the wine features remarkable, engaging scents of spritely pears, acacia, lemon citrus, mild caramel, delicate nuts, minerals, and a hint of white flowers. Very complex, boasting exemplary, brilliantly outlined fruit, balanced acidity, and a polished, elegant hint of minerally pears and delicate nuts on the finish. True to its origins in so many ways, this is what great Chassagne-based white Burgundy is all about. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, March 2012) 92 $79.95 (#103309) Vintages 17 March 2012 In-Store Discovery Freestone Vineyards 2007 Ovation Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County), California: Founded in 1999, Freestone Vineyards is owned by the Phelps family of the Napa Valley, and is considered to be the cool climate branch of their operation. Light golden-lime in colour, the 2007 Ovation Chardonnay is finely toasted, delivering enticing scents of dried butterscotch, pears, dried apricots, lemon, fresh nuts, and just a hint of tangerines. Complex, with really great fruit, slightly milder acidity, and a lingering, very polished, endearing hint of soft pears and toasted oak on the finish. Beautiful Californian craftsmanship and personality best for those who never tire of this style. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2011) 90+ $39.95 (#210302) Vintages 2 April 2011 Release Chateau Montelena 2009 Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California: A Chardonnay of superb freshness, balance, and restraint, the 2009 Chateau Montelena seems to be observing a more temperate mentality for this particular vintage. Light greenish-lime in colour, it is finely toasted, featuring graceful scents of caramel-infused pears and green apples, stone fruit, mild quince, and a hint of vanilla and apricots. Complex, delivering beautiful fruit, balanced acidity, moderate alcohol (13.6%), and a first-rate, fruit-oriented hint of pears, green apples, and a trace of dried caramel on the finish. Atypical in some ways; expressive and agile in others. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 89++ $59.95 (#701748) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Bründlmayer 2010 Kamptaler Terrassen Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal DAC, Austria: Nowadays one of the best producers in Kamptal, the 2010 Kamptaler Terrassen is a highly impressive Grüner Veltliner of superior intensity and vibrancy. Pale lime in colour, it displays crisp, varietally expressive scents of leafy green apples, lemon, white lentils, minerals, and a trace of pears. Palate: fine, refreshing fruit showing, with lovely acidity, and a crisp, mineral-laden hint of lemon and white lentils on the finish. Better than past vintages, let s hope such wines from Bründlmayer keep on coming. Screwcap closure. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 88++ $19.95 (#979708) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Jacques Bourguignon 2009, Chablis Premier Cru, Burgundy, France: One of the most unique types of Chardonnay on the planet, when good Chablis comes your way, best thing to do is to buy some. Pale-light straw lime in colour, the 2009 Premier Cru reveals lovely subtle scents of fresh, almost flinty green apples, dried pears, fern leaves, and a hint of lemon and wet stones. On the palate: displaying splendidly gentle fruit, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of steely green apples on the finish. Quite delicate, actually, with a very charming personality and style. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, May 2011) 8

9 88++ $25.95 (#208033) Vintages 11 June 2011 Release 9 Jardin 2009 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Stellenbosch WO, South Africa: Representing excellent value for money, the 2007 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay is definitely a clear winner. Light greenish-lime in colour, the wine is intensely toasted, with appealing notes of ripe apricots and butterscotch, switching to pears, orange peel, and nuts. Fairly complex, with satisfying, fuller-bodied fruit, slightly milder acidity, and a lovely hint of round pears and toasted oak on the finish. Yet another example of how good many budget-oriented Stellenbosch Chardonnays have become over the past several years. Screwcap closure. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, May 2011) 88+ $17.95 (#663336) Vintages 11 June 2011 Release Lawson s Dry Hills 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand: Refreshing, balanced, and forward, the 2010 Lawson s Dry Hills is a most satisfactory Sauvignon Blanc. Very pale lime in colour, the wine displays intense notes of gooseberries, lemon, white grapefruit, cat s pee, mild tomato leaf, and a hint of capsicum and minerals. Palate: vibrant zesty fruit and acidity on display, ending with a hint of gooseberries and grapefruit on the finish. Good to the last drop. Screwcap closure. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 88 $17.95 (#214460) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Vega Murillo 2010 Verdejo, Rueda DO, Spain: Top wine for budget-minded enthusiasts, the 2010 Verdejo comes across as a very pretty, refreshing offering for everyday drinking. Pale lime in colour, it delivers vibrant notes of almond-infused green apples, dried pears, wet stones, and a hint of fresh leaves and herbs (very mild). Palate: appealing, fresh crisp fruit on display, with balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of subtle green apples and almonds on the finish. A fine example of the varietal. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, March 2012) 87++ $15.95 (#268797) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Alkoomi 2009 Riesling, Frankland River, Western Australia, Australia: Ideal for Riesling and cooler-climate blends, Frankland River is a subregion within the GI of the Great Southern. Pale lime in colour, the 2009 Alkoomi displays lots of icy lime that gives way to lemon, kiwi slices, and a hint of kerosene, orange peel, and minerals. Palate: good zesty fruit showing, with balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of lime and kerosene on the finish. Solid and lively. Screwcap closure. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, March 2012) 87+ $16.95 (#269290) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Zaglia 2009 Friulano, Friuli Latisana DOC, Friuli, Italy: First wine I have ever tasted from the Latisana DOC, the 2009 Zaglia is a crisp, refreshing Friulano. Pale-light lime in colour, it offers baked green apples, a few leafy herbs, lychees (interesting), white flowers, and spice. Palate: nice fruit showing, with balanced acidity, and a hint of leafy green apples on the finish. Reasonably priced, this is a good opportunity to taste the flagship white grape of Friuli. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, September 2010) 87 $12.95 (#182204) Vintages 30 October 2010 Release

10 Sileni 2009 Cellar Selection Pinot Gris, Hawkes Bay, South Island, New Zealand: Respectable and fruity, the 2009 Cellar Selection Pinot Gris is an ideal everyday wine. Pale straw in colour, it features very delicate notes of straw-infused white peaches, Golden Delicious apples, and a hint of spice. Palate: good fruit profile, with balanced acidity, and a hint of delicate honeyed straw and white peaches on the finish. Solid and refreshing. Screwcap closure. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2012) 87 $15.95 (#32292) Vintages 5 February 2011 Release Red Wines: Penfolds 2005 Grange, South Australia, Australia: Like night and day in comparison to the 04, the 2005 Grange is the most backward I have tasted in years. Enormous, exotic, and stupendously interwoven, it is harkens back to a more rustic style that, thanks to brilliant winemaking, affects it only positively. Opaque ruby-red currant in colour, the wine is beautifully toasted and multilayered, presenting profound aromas of mocha, currants, scorched earth, delicate eucalyptus, espresso, baked strawberries and cherries, licorice, forest floor, mint, leather, vanilla, and spice. Truly complex, possessing forcefully smooth, powerful fruit, firm yet opulent tannins, mild acidity, and an amazingly long, impactful hint of mocha, black cherried currants, and exotic spices on the finish. As flashy as ever, collectors will not be disappointed. 96% Shiraz and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 95 $ (#336388) Vintages February 2012 Classics Catalogue Opus One 2008, Napa Valley, California: Continuing its streak of incredible vintages, the 2008 Opus One is fabulously robust, sumptuous, hedonistic, and designed (and priced) with collectors in mind. Opaque ruby in colour, it strikes one as magnificently seductive, with extraordinary, multilayered aromas of spring flowers, mocha, and currants that shortly give way to blackberries, graphite, forest floor, crème de cassis, blueberries, mint, coffee, vanilla, and spice. Truly complex, possessing sensational velvety fruit (lined with a few minerals), firm tannins, slightly milder acidity, and a lasting, smooth hint of mocha, currants, graphite, and mild flowers on the finish. Of a different complexion than recent vintages, it reminds me most of the amazing 04. Tasted twice in two months. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 94 $ (#158063) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Penfolds 2008 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia, Australia: Flagship Cabernet of the Penfolds lineup, the 2008 Bin 707 is a sumptuous offering, rather unusually, without a trace of unwanted excess. Opaque ruby in colour, this beauty, stupendously youthful, showcases marvellously inviting, hedonistic aromas of chocolate/mocha-covered black cherried currants, eucalyptus, graham crackers, licorice, crème de cassis, saddle leather, mint, underbrush, vanilla, and spice. Illustratively complex, offering decadent, multilayered fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a wonderful long-lasting hint of mocha, black cherried currants, and leather on the finish. Incredibly balanced and textured, its flavours and profile almost remind me of the Cask 23 from Stags Leap. Bravo! Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 94 $ (Private Order) Treasury Wine Estates 1

11 1 Almaviva 2006, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley), Chile: Joint venture between Mouton Rothschild and Concha y Toro, the 2006 Almaviva, were it on trial, would have a good case of being considered the best vintage yet. Opaque ruby in colour, the wine offers exceptional, enticing aromas of black mocha and espresso, giving way to crème de cassis, blackberries, blueberries, crushed rocks, and a hint of roasted meats, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, possessing immensely beautiful, powerful fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a brilliantly textured, lengthy hint of mocha-infused currants and crushed rocks on the finish. A blend of exceptional purity, substance, and power, this should age seamlessly for decades. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Carmenère, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Merlot. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, December 2010) 93 $ (#70508) Vintages February 2010 Classics Catalogue Dominus 2006, Napa Valley, California: A tremendous effort for the vintage, the 2006 Dominus is a wine of pure decadence, ample complexity, structure, and richness; a wine befitting its Moueix origination. Opaque ruby in colour with a touch of red currant, it seems to be evolving into something very special, delivering slightly backward aromas of baked mocha (slightly earthy) and currants that shortly give way to blackberries, dark cherries, forest floor, pain grille, gentle cedarwood, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, with tight, powerful, luxurious fruit, firm tannins, slightly milder acidity, and a lingering, focused hint of baked dark mocha shavings and currants on the finish. Like other recent vintages, unmistakably Bordelais in inspiration, Californian in execution. 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, September 2011) 93 $ (#105890) Vintages Online Exclusives Château Nenin 2006, Pomerol AOC, Bordeaux, France: Under the same owners as Léoville-Las-Cases since 1997, improvements at Château Nenin have been slow but steady. Indeed, the exquisite 06 is probably the best wine produced to date a wine of terrific posture, polish, and pedigree. Dark-opaque ruby in colour, it is finely toasted, revealing beautiful aromas of elegantly berried currants, blackberries, plums, mocha intermixed with black cherries, blueberries, asphalt, and a lovely hint of vanilla and spice. Very complex, featuring deliciously silky fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with an extremely refined hint of plummy currants on the finish. The magic touch of the Delon family? Very likely. The vineyard is planted to 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 92++ $89.00 (#565325) Vintages Online Exclusives Catena Zapata 2007 Argentino Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina: One of the top labels from this excellent winery, the 2007 Argentino Malbec is extremely fulsome and flavourful, replete with stupendous purity and dimension. Extremely dense black-purple in colour, the wine is beautifully toasted, exhibiting hedonistic aromas of intense violetlaced black mocha/espresso, switching to crème de cassis, currants, purple plums, blackberry compote, graphite, incense, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, delivering amazingly decadent fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a long-lasting hint of violets, Oreo Cookies, and currants on the finish. Truly one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted from Catena Zapata exemplary collectible. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012)

12 92++ $95.00 (#207076) Vintages Online Exclusives 1 Etude 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California: Of consistently excellent quality, collectors should, ideally, be on the lookout for the Etude Cabernet Sauvignon every year. Opaque ruby in colour, the 07 is beautifully toasted, featuring intense, tantalizing aromas of mocha, currants, plums (mixed with black cherries), delicate crushed flowers, licorice, crème brûlée, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, possessing exceptionally smooth, finely textured fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a lingering, poised hint of mocha and plums on the finish. Of immense vitality, concentration, and freshness, it would be hard to tell this wine possessed 14.7% alcohol. Also contains 5% Cabernet Franc. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 92+ $99.95 (Private Order) Treasury Wine Estates Wolf Blass 2007 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Malbec, Langhorne Creek/McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia: One of several top wines in the otherwise largely uninspired Wolf Blass stable, the 2007 Black Label is extremely powerful, polished, and superbly fleshed out. Opaque ruby in colour with a streak of red currant, the wine is beautifully toasted, offering assertive aromas of slightly fragrant chocolate, currants, eucalyptus, baked plums, loamy earth, black leather, mint, licorice, asphalt, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, with impeccable fruit (very concentrated), firm tannins, mild acidity, and a long-lasting, opulent hint of currants, eucalyptus, and pain grille on the finish. Excellently crafted, the wine seems destined for collectors cellars. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Shiraz, and 8% Malbec. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 92+ $99.95 (Private Order) Treasury Wine Estates Château Bellevue 2006, St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé AOC, Bordeaux, France: Unless I m mistaken, I don t believe I have any other notes from this estate. Of course, my note from the excellent, beautifully crafted and balanced 06 changes all that. Dark-opaque ruby in colour, it exhibits exceedingly enticing aromas of silky blueberried currants, plums, raspberries, cream, graphite, mocha, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, offering delicious, generous-er fruit, firm yet accessible tannins, balanced acidity, and a round, polished hint of plummy currants on the finish. More decadent and outgoing in design, the pleasure this wine gives ought not to be treated lightly. The vineyard is planted to 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 92 $75.00 (#564435) Vintages Online Exclusives Concha y Toro 2007 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley), Chile: Flagship wine of the gigantic Concha y Toro consortium, the 2007 Don Melchor is unmistakably one of the best vintages yet for this label. Opaque ruby-red currant in colour, the wine is beautifully toasted, presenting rich, even elegant aromas of cedarlaced currants, dried mocha, espresso, blackberry treacle, underbrush, asphalt, light sinewy elements, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, delivering exceptional, sumptuous forward fruit (brilliantly structured), firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a persistent, abundant hint of blackberry treacle, mocha, and mild cedarwood on the finish. Extraordinary, powerful, embodying a certain Haut-Médoc style that only adds to its content. Also contains 2% Cabernet Franc. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012)

13 92 $79.95 (#315176) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release 1 Glaetzer 2007 Anaperenna Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia: As with his other premium wines, Ben Glaetzer s 2007 Anaperenna, while mightily built and deliciously fleshed out, retains a remarkable level of overall freshness, purity, and intensity of flavour. Thus: opaque ruby in colour, the wine is finely toasted, providing truly tempting aromas of baked black mocha and currants, plums, pain grille, black forest cake, mint, fruitcake, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, boasting powerful, extremely well-rounded forward fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a long-lasting hint of baked black mocha, eucalyptus, and currants on the finish. An excellent, alluring example of a top-notch blend of this type. 75% Shiraz and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 92 $55.00 (#72926) Vintages Online Exclusives Domaine Henri Gouges 2007, Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Pruliers AOC, Burgundy, France: From arguably the finest Nuits-St-Georges-centric producer, the 2007 Les Pruliers is an excellent wine for the vintage; a wine of real refinement, vibrancy, flavour, and breed. Medium-dark ruby in colour, it is dominated, extremely delicately, by rhubarb, giving way to enticing aromas of black cherries, raspberries, plums, crème brûlée, and a hint of mocha, violets, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, featuring refined, focused fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a beautiful, elegant hint of cherries and raspberries on the finish. Inescapably tempting, elegant, and full of life. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 92 $75.00 (#154914) Vintages Online Exclusives Château La Nerthe 2007, Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC. Rhône, France: A must-have for collectors of great Châteauneuf, the 2007 Château La Nerthe is a wine of terrific posture, structure, and clarity. Dark-opaque ruby in colour, it is definitely a much more elegant, approachable version than expected, delivering excellent, Provençal-inspired aromas of blackberries, dark raspberries, lavender, licorice, leather, mocha (just traces), minerals, and spice. Very complex, boasting superb fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lingering, delicious hint of well-structured blackberries and dark raspberries on the finish. Marvellously done; and considering the greatness of the vintage, I would expect nothing less. 48% Grenache, 28% Syrah, and 14% Mourvèdre. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, September 2011) 92 $45.00 (#735407) Vintages Online Exclusives Penfolds 2006 Magill Estate Shiraz, South Australia, Australia: One of the more elegant wines in the Iconic Range of Penfolds offerings, the 2006 Magill Estate Shiraz is starting to enter mid-life full of confidence, character, concentration, and focus. Opaque red currant in colour with a touch of garnet, the wine features seasoned aromas of plums, licorice, eucalyptus (laced with a dash of cedarwood), scorched earth, mint, leather, underbrush, coffee, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, boasting superb fruit, firm tannins, mild acidity, and a lingering, almost elegant hint of red currants, eucalyptus, and scorched earth on the finish. Delicious, characterful, balanced, and polished. Excellent wine. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 92 $99.00 (#944736) Vintages May 2011 Classics Catalogue

14 Penley Estate 2005 Chertsey, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia: The Bordeaux blend of Penley Estate and far superior to its less premium wines, the 2005 Chertsey is an excellent, beautifully maturing bottling that collectors should unhesitatingly want to acquire. Opaque red-garnet in colour, it offers wonderful aromas of toasted cedary oak and baked eucalyptus (slightly earthy), switching to plums, leather, cookie crumble, mint, vanilla, and spice. Complex, possessing powerful yet surprisingly elegant forward fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a polished, lengthy hint of cedary currants and eucalyptus on the finish. A stark reminder of the potential individuality of the best Coonawarra wines. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and 15% Cabernet Franc. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 92 $54.00 (#148148) Vintages Online Exclusives Peter Lehmann 2005 Stonewell Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia, Australia: Flagship wine from the superlative Peter Lehman collection, the 2005 Stonewell Shiraz is an excellent wine to behold: powerful, expressive, and seriously uncompromising. Opaque ruby in colour, it is finely toasted, with beautiful, intense aromas of stewed mocha and eucalyptus, baked dark currants and blueberries, plums, incense, leather, mint, roasted meats, tar, charcoal, vanilla, and spice. Truly complex, possessing sumptuous fruit, firm yet almost velvety tannins, mild acidity, and a very long, enticing hint of stewed mocha, eucalyptus, and plums on the finish. A serious handful of a wine, one that should give great pleasure in the years to come. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, May 2011) 92 $79.95 (#724625) Vintages 11 June 2011 Release Quintarelli 2002, Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, Veneto, Italy: Even in weak vintages, the wines of Quintarelli excel, with the 2002 Valpolicella Classico Superiore stimulating the senses with its marvellous character, integration, and quality. Dark garnet in colour, the wine is intensely savoury, presenting an acutely refined bouquet of wild cedary cherries and plums, undergrowth, boeuf bouillon, garrigue, herbs, red flower petals, cigar smoke, tobacco, roasted meats, and spice. Very complex, delivering superbly elegant, mature fruit, well integration tannins, balanced acidity, and a truly beautiful hint of savoury elements and dried red plums (both very pure) on the finish. Excellent as always collectors, take note. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 92 $79.95 (#986117) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Domaine Jean Tardy & Fils 2006 Vieilles Vignes, Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Boudots AOC, Burgundy, France: As most serious Burgundy lovers are aware, wines from Boudots often have something of a Vosne-Romanée about them, making them among the most fulsome, most sensual wines of the Nuits-St-Georges commune. Thus: medium-dark ruby in colour, the 2006 Jean Tardy & Fils is finely toasted, displaying undeniably inviting aromas of black cherries (slightly minty), plums, raspberried red currants, crème brûlée, and a delicate hint of cedarwood (extremely mild), vanilla, and spice. Very complex and trim, possessing extremely refined fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a very elegant hint of refined cherries on the finish. Superlative Boudots! Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 92 $99.00 (#106567) Vintages Online Exclusives 1

15 Wynns Coonawarra Estate 2008 John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia: Flagship wine of Wynns, the 2008 John Riddoch is an outstanding Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon of sumptuous, lengthy, and decadent disposition. Opaque ruby in colour, it offers alluring, adolescent aromas of currants, blackberries, mint-infused licorice, incense, espresso, delicate woodsmoke, cookie dough, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, delivering superb fruit, firm tannins, mild acidity, and a lasting, abundantly velvety hint of dark plums, mint-laden currants, and mocha on the finish. First class all the way. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 92 $99.95 (Private Order) Treasury Wine Estates Pegasus Bay Winery 2008 Pinot Noir, Waipara, South Island, New Zealand: Surprisingly much superior to the 07, which is generally considered a much finer vintage, the 2008 Pinot Noir is a wine of excellent purity, style, and breadth. Dark ruby in colour, it remains unusually youthful, featuring inviting, elegant yet intense aromas of raspberries, cherries, blueberries, blackberries, violets, licorice, rhubarb, and the slightest, most elemental hint of loamy earth, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, expressing remarkable, intrinsically silky fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and an exemplary, elegant hint of dark raspberries and cherries on the finish. The best vintage yet? Could very well be. Screwcap closure. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 91++ $47.95 (#31294) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Château Prieuré-Lichine 2004, Margaux AOC, Bordeaux, France: Tasted on multiple occasions, the 2004 Prieuré-Lichine is a classic Margaux of beautiful craftspersonship, finesse, and accessibility. Dark-opaque ruby in colour, the wine remains exceedingly youthful, offering refined aromas of toasted oak, delicately raspberried currants, plums, loamy earth, and a hint of black cherries, vanilla, and spice. Complex, showcasing superbly elegant, accessible fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a refined, almost silky hint of currants (slightly perfumed) and loamy earth on the finish. True to its origins, providing first-rate pleasure and polish. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 91++ $79.00 (#120550) Vintages Online Exclusives Mocali 2006, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany, Italy: Of exemplary elegance and traditional posture, the 2006 Mocali is a great Brunello di Montalcino. Dark redgarnet in colour, the wine is beautifully rugged, presenting refined aromas of intense leathery dried wild cherries and red plums, undergrowth, wild game, cedarwood, tobacco, subtle floral elements, lots of tar, and spice. Very complex, boasting superbly textured fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a refined, poised hint of leathery dried wild cherries and cedarwood on the finish. Terrific offering, and like fine Florentine leather, this is clearly meant for the long term. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, March 2012) 91+ $43.95 (#64956) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Domaine Pierre Amiot & Fils 2006, Morey-St-Denis Premier Les Ruchots AOC, Burgundy, France: Located just east of the Grand Crus of Clos de Tart and Les Bonnes Mares, one would expect at least the potential for great wines to exist in Les Ruchots. Luckily, the 2006 Pierre Amiot & Fils provides collectors with an ideal example. 1

16 Medium ruby-red currant in colour, the wine is delicately toasted, displaying very refined aromas of red cherries and raspberries, rosewood, rhubarb, gentle cedary overtones, and a lovely hint of cinnamon and other spices. Complex, possessing elegant, slightly restrained fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a refined hint of cherries mixed with high-quality cedarwood (almost as if one was in a luxury furniture store) on the finish. Superbly done. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 91 $75.00 (#103135) Vintages Online Exclusives Domaine d Ardhuy 2006, Corton Grand Cru Hautes Mourottes AOC, Burgundy, France: My only note from this producer, the 2006 Hautes Mourottes is certainly a Corton with a unique personality, offering lots of intellectual conversation for collectors who come across it. Medium-dark ruby in colour, the wine is finely yet mildly toasted, displaying intense aromas of wild cherries that give way to slightly garrigue-driven red plums, light underbrush, loamy earth, cinnamon hearts, and spice. Complex and precise, exhibiting very fine, elegant fruit, fine yet lean tannins, balanced acidity, and a refined hint of slightly spicy red cherries on the finish. A most intriguing, beautifully crafted red Burgundy. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 91 $89.00 (#154310) Vintages Online Exclusives Clos Canon 2006, St-Emilion AOC, Bordeaux, France: The second wine of Château Canon, for the longest period one of the more elegant yet indecisive estates of Premier Grand Cru Classé status; nonetheless a wine I have always very much admired. Darkopaque ruby in colour, the 06 is elegantly toasted, featuring refined aromas of currants and black cherries, switching to mocha, licorice, crushed rocks, pain grille (mixed with a little cedarwood), and a hint of leather, vanilla, and spice. Complex, with beautiful though somewhat reserved fruit, very firm tannins, balanced acidity, and an ornate, restrained hint of currants and crushed rocks on the finish. Textbook Right Bank claret, though not without something of a Left Bank attitude about it dashing wine. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, September 2011) 91 $49.00 (#247551) Vintages Online Exclusives Chateau Montelena 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga (Napa Valley), California: Tightly wound up at present, the 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon possesses superb structure, balance, and grip. Opaque ruby in colour, the wine is finely toasted, offering engaging, gravelly aromas of currants, plums, dried cherries, incense, licorice, graphite, leather, vanilla, and spice. Complex, delivering delicious, surprisingly understated fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a beautiful, sturdy lingering hint of gravel-trodden currants and subtle incense on the finish. Marvellously crafted a real original for Chateau Montelena. Vigourously decent before serving. Also contains 2% Cabernet Franc. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 91 $ (#709881) Vintages 20 November 2010 Release Remo Farina 2004 Monte Fante, Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOC, Veneto, Italy: One of the top wines from Remo Farina, the 2004 Monte Fante is an excellent Amarone Riserva, maturing beautifully and full of life. Dark-opaque red-garnet in colour, it features an elegant, savoury bouquet of raw cherries and red plums, cedar, undergrowth, aged beef, tar, leather, and spice. Complex, delivering beautiful, really satisfying fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a delicious, delicate hint of smooth, pure savoury plums on the finish. Superlative at this stage, though it should have no 1

17 problem aging further. 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, and 5% Dindarella. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, May 2011) 91 $62.95 (#63636) Vintages 11 June 2011 Release Kay Brothers 2006 Amery Vineyards Block 6 Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia: With some of the most concentrated, decadent offerings out of McLaren Vale, the wines of Kay Brothers are almost always high up in demand. Opaque ruby in colour, the powerful, abundant 06 Block 6 Shiraz starts off with inviting toasted notes that shortly give way to tempting aromas of mocha-infused eucalyptus, baked plums, stewed cherries and currants, violets, leather, spicebox, vanilla, and berries. Complex, presenting superbly sumptuous fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, and a very long, decadent hint of eucalyptus, mocha, and plums on the finish. Highly extracted with a wonderful personality, the appeal of this wine is unmistakable. Screwcap closure. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 91 $97.00 (#46326) Vintages Online Exclusives Bodegas Lan 2004 Viña Lanciano Reserva, Rioja DOCa, Spain: Excellent outing from the much-lauded 04 vintage, the Lanciano Reserva is extremely well crafted, balanced, and generous. Dark-opaque ruby in colour, the wine is finely toasted, delivering beautiful aromas of baked raspberried currants, plums, cherry liqueur, leather, vanilla, and spice. Complex, offering elegant, attractively forward (only slightly) fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lasting hint of cherried currants on the finish. Enticingly youthful, this truly stands above many of its peers. 80% Tempranillo and 20% Mazuelo. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, January 2011) 91 $28.95 (#955096) Vintages 5 February 2011 Release St. Hallet 2009 Blackwell Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia, Australia: The freshest Blackwell I have ever tasted, the 09 is an absolutely delicious, layered, and powerful Shiraz. Very dense ruby in colour with a touch of purple, the wine is beautifully toasted, featuring inviting, heightened aromas of eucalyptus, mocha, blackberried currants, purple plums, violets, forest floor, licorice, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, possessing sumptuous forward fruit, slightly supple yet firm tannins, mild acidity, and a lengthy, polished hint of eucalyptus, plums, and subtle mocha on the finish. Great value for collectors. Screwcap closure. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, March 2012) 91 $29.95 (#535104) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Spy Valley 2008 Envoy Pinot Noir, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand: Along with the Satellite Range, wines with the Envoy label represent Spy Valley s branching out into the premium spectrum of high-quality wine production with great success, might I add. Medium-dark ruby in colour, the 08 Pinot Noir displays alluring aromas of fresh cherries and raspberries, plums, spicy violets, cinnamon, and a truly lovely hint of rhubarb and spice. Quite complex, featuring innately beautiful, silky fruit, fine yet approachable tannins (like all great Pinot), balanced acidity, and an outstanding hint of cherries, raspberries, and violets on the finish. Superbly integrated, satin-like, and lifted. Even at 14.5% alcohol, it remains remarkably balanced. Screwcap closure. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, October 2011) 91 $47.00 (#238501) Vintages Online Exclusives 1

18 Stags Leap Winery 2008 Ne Cede Malis Petite Sirah, Stags Leap District (Napa Valley), California: One of the best Petite Sirahs I have ever tasted, the 2008 Ne Cede Malis is the flagship label of Stags Leap Winery. Opaque ruby in colour, it is finely toasted, exhibiting fascinating peppercorn steak-driven aromas (seriously) of blackberries, black mocha, charcoal embers, forest floor, pain grille, incense, vanilla, and spice. Complex, retaining powerful forward fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a long, poignant hint of black plums and mocha on the finish. Sumptuous and powerful, but just so we re clear this really only marginally tastes anything like Syrah. Also contains small amounts of Carignan, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Peloursin, Syrah, and Viognier. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 91 $89.95 (Private Order) Treasury Wine Estates Yalumba 2007 The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia: Flagship label from Yalumba s Coonawarra bottlings, the 2007 Menzies is extremely well crafted, finely structured, delicious, and balanced. Opaque ruby in colour, the wine, finely toasted, delivers inviting, multilayered aromas of eucalyptus, currants, blackberry treacle, mild black cherries, strawberries, roasted meats, licorice, mint, cloves, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, boasting superb, forward Coonawarra fruit, firm tannins, mild acidity, and a lingering, delicious hint of mocha, currants, and licorice/mint on the finish. The ideal collectable. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 90++ $53.95 (#473645) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Marchese Antinori 2007, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, Tuscany, Italy: Textbook Riserva, the 07 is yet another superb offering from the much-esteemed Antinori establishment. Dark-opaque red currant in colour, it possesses a beautiful set of aromas: blackberry-infused cedary cherries, plums, pipe tobacco, caramel nougats, black mocha (very subtle), leather, and spice. Complex, with great, well-centred fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a polished hint of loamy cedary plums and cherries on the finish. Armed with a sort of intelligentsia and rugged demeanour, this shall hopefully find its way into many collectors cellars. 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and other complementary red varietals. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 90+ $29.95 (#512384) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Cain 2007 Concept The Benchland, Napa Valley, California: The first time I have tasted this wine, the 2007 Benchland, notably Bordelaise, is an elegant, fulsome, and fascinating offering. Opaque ruby in colour with a touch of red currant, it is finely toasted, offering evolving aromas of red currants, plums, dried strawberries, tobacco, dried mocha (very faint), forest floor, and a hint of cedarwood and spice. Complex, possessing superb fruit, firm tannins, slightly milder acidity, and a lingering, smooth hint of delicate cedary plums and mocha on the finish. Quite peculiar, yet unquestionably beautifully made. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 12% Petit Verdot. Now (Julian Hitner, The Successful Collector, February 2012) 90+ $58.95 (#590299) Vintages 17 March 2012 Release Ségla 2008, Margaux AOC, Bordeaux, France: The second wine of Château Rauzan- Ségla, this label has seriously improved in recent vintages, nowadays possessing a lot more substance and heft. Dark ruby in colour with a streak of red currant, the 08 is 1