Compiled by Winemag.co.za

Transcription

1 Compiled by Winemag.co.za

2 KEY FINDINGS Is South African Chardonnay suffering from tall poppy syndrome? In the past decade or so, the variety as made locally has achieved notable prominence but there has been a tendency in more recent times to disparage it in some quarters, the argument being that it is still some distance behind other New World producing countries let alone Burgundy in the quality stakes. It should also be noted that the Chardonnay category was unable to win a single double gold medal at Veritas this year. This is the eighth annual Chardonnay Report but the second time that participation in the tasting was not by invitation only. Instead, it was open to all prepared to pay an entry fee and while the line-up was previously capped at 60 wines, the panel now had 117 to review. We found the overall quality of the wines in the line-up this year was excellent, 72 examples or 62% of the line-up rating 90-plus on the 100-point quality scale and the average score being 89.9 (compared to 46% of last year s line-up rating 90-plus with the average score being 89.5). This would suggest that local Chardonnay is not in some mysterious state of stagnation but rather going from strength to strength. Two Burgundies were included as ringers, Henri Boillot Meursault 2016 and Olivier Leflaive Puligny- Montrachet 2015 both rating an impressive points, but they were plenty of SA wines that rated the same or even slightly better. SA Chardonnay at least as good as the stuff from some of Burgundy s more prestigious village classifactions Which areas were to the fore? Out of the top 24 wines (six rating 92, 13 rating and five rating 94), 10 were from Stellenbosch, six were from Elgin, three were from the greater Hemel-en-Aarde area, two from Franschhoek, one from Constantia, one from Darling and one a multi-regional blend. How much should be spending on a decent bottle of Chardonnay? The average price of the top 24 is R277 a bottle, although as ever a huge differential between top and bottom with Delaire Graff Terraced Block Reserve 2016 the most expensive at R725 a bottle and La Motte 2017 the least at R127. So where to for South African Chardonnay? There was the usual broad stylistic spectrum on display from the lean and fresh to the rich and thick textured and it is pleasing to see that no one particular interpretation of how best to render the variety into wine holds sway. That said, there were perhaps too many wines that, regardless of where the winemaker intended to position them stylistically, appeared sound, technically correct, competently made and nothing more. It is said of Chardonnay that it is the winemaker s variety because it is so malleable in the cellar. Perhaps what is required for it to reach even greater heights is when vineyard starts to trump winemaking technique. In this regard, it is interesting to note that the grapes for the perennial top performer that is Seven Flags Chardonnay from Paul Cluver in Elgin (the 2017 vintage rates 94 points in this report) come from the two oldest blocks on the property planted in 1987

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4 JUDGING PROCEDURES The judging panel was chaired by myself and further consisted of two trusted colleagues, namely Roland Peens and James Pietersen, both of Wine Cellar, Cape Town merchants and cellarers of fine wine. We tasted blind, ratings done according to the 100-point system. Final scores were awarded on the basis of discussion that involved retasting where necessary rather than relying solely on arithmetic averaging. Christian Eedes, Editor, Winemag.co.za

5 TASTING NOTES 94 Delaire Graff Terraced Block Reserve 2016 Price: R725 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.7% Matured for 10 months in French oak, 40% new. Citrus, herbs, some leesy complexity and vanilla on the nose. The palate shows wonderful composure an excellent core of fruit and nicely coated acidity before a savoury finish. Properly complex with layers of flavour. Very well assembled, this should reward a good few years of bottle maturation. 94 La Bri 2017 Price: R140 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.07% Matured for 12 months in French oak, 48% new. A wonderfully fragrant nose with top notes of blossom, fynbos and hay before citrus and apple. The palate is light bodied yet possesses extraordinary fruit purity, the finish long and pithy. Has a lovely energy about it. 94 Le Riche 2017 Price: R130 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.69% Half of the fermentation occurred spontaneously. Maturation as follows: 25% in new oak, 25% old oak, 50% in stainless steel tank for four months before blending and then a further six months in lined concrete tank. A complex nose showing a fynbos top note before pear, lime and lemon plus some struck match and sea breeze notes in the background. The palate is clean and fresh with lovely fruit purity, driving acidity and a savoury finish. A very good example of a wine made in a leaner style. 94 Meerlust 2017 Price: R240 Total production: bottles Abv: 13% Half of the fermentation occurred spontaneously. Matured for 10 months in 300-litre barrels, 50% new. Citrus, fresh herbs, some earthiness and a hint of vanilla on the nose. Medium bodied with arresting acidity and a pithy finish remarkably elegant and understated.

6 94 Paul Cluver Seven Flags 2017 Price: R700 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.15% Spontaneously fermented and matured for nine months in French oak, 35% new. A complex nose with a fynbos top note before pear and citrus with a little oyster shell in the background. The palate is very well balanced with concentrated fruit, punchy acidity and a long, dry finish. Creation Reserve 2017 Price: R303 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.83% Matured for 10 months in French oak, 40% new. A very pretty nose with a top note of blossom before pear, white peach, lime and lemon. Lovely fruit purity, fresh acidity and a pithy finish. Elegant and understated. Delaire Graff Banghoek Reserve 2017 Price: R240 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.4% Matured for 10 months in French oak, 40% new. A herbal top note before pear, white peach and citrus plus some reduction/leesy complexity. Lovely fruit concentration and vibrant acidity before a pithy finish. Rich and very flavourful. DeMorgenzon Reserve 2017 Price: R375 Total production: ml bottles and 155 magnums Abv: 13.91% Spontaneous fermented and matured for 10 months in French oak, 30% new. Citrus, buttered toast and a hint of reduction on the nose. Rich and full, smooth in texture with a savoury finish. A very polished and precisely made wine.

7 Domaine Des Dieux 2014 Price: R155 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.5% Matured for nine months in barrel. An intriguing nose with notes of citrus, yellow peach plus some leesy, waxy complexity. The palate is rich but balanced with a good core of fruit, nicely coated acidity and a lingering finish. Eikendal 2017 Price: R180 Total production: bottles Abv: 13% 80% of grapes from Elgin and 20% from Stellenbosch. Matured for some 12 months in 500-litre barrels, 15% new. A beguiling nose with top notes of blossom and fynbos before citrus with some reduction/struck match in the background. The palate displays pure fruit, racy acidity and a pithy finish. A wonderfully vivid rendition of the variety. Groot Constantia 2017 Price: R245 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.39% 20% of the fermentation occurred spontaneously. Matured for 10 months in French oak, 35% new. A subtle and complex nose with notes of citrus, yellow peach, reduction, fynbos and spice. The palate is medium bodied yet properly complex a good core of fruit, pleasantly creamy in texture, the finish extremely long and savoury. Hartenberg The Eleanor 2016 Price: R350 Total production: ml bottles and 168 magnums Abv: 13.67% Matured for 12 months in French oak, 60% new. A somewhat shy nose with hints of citrus and fynbos to go with reduction. The palate, however, has a really chiseled quality about it a great core of fruit as well as punchy acidity, the finish long and salty.

8 Henri Boillot Meursault 2016 Only available on allocation. A complex nose that shows a hint of reduction as well as blossom, citrus and apple and attractive oak. The palate is pure and precise with excellent fruit concentration, racy acidity and a long, dry finish. Should age beautifully. Kershaw GPS Lower Duivenhoks River 2017 Price: R495 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.07% Spontaneously fermented and matured for 11 months in French oak, 40% new. Wonderfully complex nose showing flowers and hay before citrus, vanilla and a little bee s wax. The palate is seamless so concentrated and yet so fresh. Lovely depth of fruit and layers of flavour, the finish particularly long. Kruger Family Wines Walker Bay 2017 Price: R235 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.5% Matured for 10 months in old oak. A complex nose with top notes of citrus blossom and fynbos before lemon and orange plus a little reduction in the background. The palate has lovely fruit expression and bright acidity pure and precise with a great energy about it. Longridge 2017 Price: R175 Total production: ml bottles and 60 magnums Abv: 13.12% Matured for 12 months in 25% amphorae, 20% new and 55% old oak. Citrus, some leesy complexity, vanilla and spice on the nose. Rich and broad on the palate succulent fruit and appealing viscosity.

9 Malanot Malan Family Reserve 2016 Price: R150 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.5% Grapes from Elgin and Franschhoek. Matured for 12 months in 300-litre barrels, 10% new. Citrus plus some leesy complexity on the nose. Medium bodied and composed compact fruit, fresh acidity, the finish long and savoury. Classically styled. Oak Valley Groenlandberg 2017 Price: R220 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.% Matured for nine months in French oak, 36% new. Some reductive pong before citrus and oatmeal on the nose. The palate is rich and full but balanced layers of flavour and great length on the finish. Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 2015 Wine Cellar price: R1 050 A hint of reduction before citrus and green apple plus some toasty oak-derived character on the nose. The palate displays plenty of reined-in power impressive fruit density but also a cracking line of acidity while the finish is long and savoury. Sutherland Elgin 2017 Price: R135 Total production: bottles Abv: 13.56% A pronounced struck-match note plus citrus and some leesy complexity on the nose. The palate is rich and thick textured yet also possessing snappy acidity. Layers and layers of flavour including marmalade as well as some harder to describe umami-like character.

10 BUYING GUIDE: CELLAR-DOOR PRICES FOR WINES RATED La Motte 2017 R127 Elgin Vintners 2014 R147 Groote Post Kapokberg 2017 R160 Tokara Reserve Collection Stellenbosch 2017 R190 Journey's End Destination 2017 R260 Kershaw Clonal Selection Elgin 2017 R Plaisir de Merle 2017 R135 Vrede en Lust Marguerite 2016 R140 Stellenbosch Vineyards Credo 2016 R150 Stellenbosch Vineyards Credo 2017 R150 Longridge 2016 R175 Uva Mira The Mira 2017 R210 Almenkerk 2017 R240 Neil Ellis Whitehall Elgin 2017 R250 Iona 2017 R Goedverwacht Maxim Limited Release 2017 R300 Jordan Nine Yards 2016 R405 Eikendal Infused by Earth 2016 R485 Uva Mira The Single Tree 2016 R530 Bartinney Hourglass 2017 R Durbanville Hills 2017 R65 Badsberg Sur Lie 2017 R78 Bersig Barrel Fermented 2016 R89 Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2017 R101 Edgebaston 2017 R110 Louisvale 2017 R110 Esona Single Vineyard 2015 R La Vierge Jezebelle 2017 R135 Môreson Dr. Reason Why 2017 R140 Stellenbosch Reserve Moederkerk 2018 R140 Oldenburg Vineyards 2017 R141 Fleur du Cap Series Privée 2017 R142 Cape Point Vineyards 2017 R180 Jordan Barrel Fermented 2017 R189

11 BUYING GUIDE CONT. 90 Highlands Road 2016 R190 Highlands Road 2017 R190 Aaldering 2017 R195 Lourensford Limited Release 2017 R195 Kershaw The Smuggler's Boot 2016 R210 Kershaw The Smuggler's Boot 2017 R210 Hazendal 2017 R220 Kruger Family Wines Klipkop 2017 R235 Paul Cluver Estate 2017 R250 Julien Schaal Evidence 2017 R260 Julien Schaal Confluence 2017 R260 Babylonstoren 2017 R275 Sutherland Elgin Reserve 2016 R300 Glen Carlou Quartzstone 2017 R313 Haskell Anvil 2017 R350 Muratie Isabella Reserve 2017 R350 Rustenberg Five Soldiers 2017 R410 Stonebird 2016 R460 Creation The Art of Chardonnay 2017 R6 Uva Mira 2016 R750

12 COMPLETE SCORES A Z Name Wine of Origin Score Aaldering 2017 Stellenbosch 90 Almenkerk 2017 Elgin 91 Avontuur Luna de Miel Reserve 2017 Stellenbosch 89 Simonsberg- 90 Babylonstoren 2017 Paarl Badsberg Sur Lie 2017 Breedekloof 90 Bartinney 2017 Stellenbosch 89 Bartinney Hourlass 2017 Stellenbosch 91 Bergsig Tant Anna Reserve 2017 Wellington 87 Bersig Barrel Fermented 2016 Breedekloof 90 Bizoe Idioglossia 2017 Western Cape 89 Cape Point Vineyards 2017 Western Cape 90 Cape Town Wine Company 2018 Cape Town 88 Chamonix 2017 Franschhoek 84 Chamonix Reserve 2016 Franschhoek 89 Creation Reserve 2017 Walker Bay Creation The Art of Chardonnay 2017 Walker Bay 90 DeMorgenzon Reserve 2017 Stellenbosch Delaire Graff Banghoek Reserve 2017 Banghoek Delaire Graff Terraced Block Reserve 2016 Banghoek 94 Hemel-en- Domaine Des Dieux 2014 Aarde Ridge Dieu Donné 2017 Franschhoek 87 Durbanville 90 Durbanville Hills 2017 Hills Edgebaston 2017 Stellenbosch 90 Eikendal 2017 Western Cape Eikendal Infused by Earth 2016 Stellenbosch 91 Eikendal Janina Unwooded 2018 Western Cape 89 Eikendal Mon Désir 2017 Elgin 87 Elgin Vintners 2014 Elgin 92 Esona Single Vineyard 2015 Robertson 90 Fleur du Cap Series Privée 2017 Western Cape 90 Simonsberg- 89 Glen Carlou 2017 Paarl Simonsberg- 90 Glen Carlou Quartzstone 2017 Paarl Simonsberg- 87 Glen Carlou Unwooded 2018 Paarl Glenelly Estate Reserve 2017 Stellenbosch 89 Glenwood Grand Duc 2016 Franschhoek 87 Glenwood Vignerons Selection 2017 Franschhoek 88 Goedverwacht Great Expectations 2018 Robertson 88

13 Goedverwacht JG 2017 Robertson 88 Goedverwacht Maxim Limited Release 2017 Robertson 91 Groot Constantia 2017 Constantia Groote Post Unwooded 2018 Darling 86 Groote Post Kapokberg 2017 Darling 92 Hartenberg 2016 Stellenbosch 89 Hartenberg The Eleanor 2016 Stellenbosch Haskell Anvil 2017 Stellenbosch 90 Haut Espoir 2017 Franschhoek 89 Hazendal 2017 Stellenbosch 90 Henri Boillot Meursault 2016 Meursault Highlands Road 2016 Elgin 90 Highlands Road 2017 Elgin 90 Holden Manz Barrel Fermented Avant-Garde Collection 2017 Western Cape 89 Holden Manz Reserve 2017 Western Cape 88 Iona 2017 Elgin 91 Jordan Barrel Fermented 2017 Stellenbosch 90 Jordan Nine Yards 2016 Stellenbosch 91 Journey's End 2017 Stellenbosch 89 Journey's End Destination 2017 Stellenbosch 92 Upper Hemelen-Aarde 90 Julien Schaal Confluence 2017 Julien Schaal Evidence 2017 Elgin 90 Kershaw Clonal Selection Elgin 2017 Elgin 92 Kershaw GPS Lower Duivenhoks River 2017 Western Cape Kershaw The Smuggler's Boot 2016 Western Cape 90 Kershaw The Smuggler's Boot 2017 Western Cape 90 Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Unoaked 2018 Western Cape 89 Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2017 Western Cape 90 Piekenierskloof 90 Kruger Family Wines Klipkop 2017 Piekenierskloof 80 Kruger Family Wines Sans Chêne 2017 Kruger Family Wines Walker Bay 2017 Walker Bay La Bri 2017 Franschhoek 94 La Couronne Barrel Fermented 2016 Franschhoek 89 La Motte 2017 Franschhoek 92 La Petite Ferme Barrel Fermented 2017 Western Cape 88 Hemel-en- 90 La Vierge Jezebelle 2017 Aarde Ridge Cape South 89 Laarman Focal Point Vermaaklikheid 2017 Coast Laibach The Ladybird 2017 Western Cape 89 Le Riche 2017 Stellenbosch 94 Longridge 2016 Stellenbosch 91 Longridge 2017 Stellenbosch

14 Louisvale 2017 Stellenbosch 90 Lourensford Limited Release 2017 Stellenbosch 90 Lourensford The Dome 2017 Stellenbosch 89 Malanot Malan Family Reserve 2016 Western Cape Matthew van Heerden Signature 2017 Western Cape 83 Meerhof 2018 Swartland 86 Meerlust 2017 Stellenbosch 94 Mont Rochelle Miko 2016 Franschhoek 89 Môreson Dr. Reason Why 2017 Franschhoek 90 Mulderbosch 2017 Stellenbosch 89 Simonsberg- 90 Muratie Isabella Reserve 2017 Stellenbosch Neil Ellis Reserve Collection Barrel Fermented Elin 2017 (Woolworths) Elgin 89 Neil Ellis Whitehall Elgin 2017 Elgin 91 Oak Valley Groenlandberg 2017 Elgin Oldenburg Vineyards 2017 Stellenbosch 90 Puligny- Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 2015 Montrachet Org de Rac Lightly Wooded 2018 Swartland 88 Org de Rac Reserve 2017 Swartland 87 Paul Cluver Estate 2017 Elgin 90 Paul Cluver Seven Flags 2017 Elgin 94 Paul Wallace Reflection 2017 Elgin 89 Simonsberg- 91 Plaisir de Merle Chardonay 2017 Paarl Simonsberg- 90 Rustenberg Five Soldiers 2017 Stellenbosch Springfontein 2016 Daredevil's Drums Juices Untamed Native Yeast Walker Bay 84 Stellenbosch Reserve Moederkerk 2018 Stellenbosch 90 Stellenbosch Vineyards Credo 2016 Stellenbosch 91 Stellenbosch Vineyards Credo 2017 Stellenbosch 91 Stonebird 2016 Walker Bay 90 Sutherland Elgin 2017 Elgin Sutherland Elgin Reserve 2016 Elgin 90 Thelema 2015 Stellenbosch 87 Tokara Reserve Collection Stellenbosch 2017 Stellenbosch 92 Usana 2017 Stellenbosch 88 Uva Mira 2016 Stellenbosch 90 Uva Mira The Mira 2017 Stellenbosch 91 Uva Mira The Single Tree 2016 Stellenbosch 91 Voor- 89 Vondeling 2017 Paardeberg Simonsberg- 91 Vrede en Lust Marguerite 2016 Paarl Vriesenhof 2016 Stellenbosch 88 Warwick The White Lady 2017 Stellenbosch 89

15 Waverley Hills 2017 Tulbagh 87