TASTING REPORT BY CHRISTIAN EEDES

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Baldwin Walker
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1 TASTING REPORT BY CHRISTIAN EEDES

2 INTRODUCTION Just how well do modern-era South African reds perform as they get older? One of the most important measures of great wine is that it should be age-worthy, that is it should become more pleasurable and more interesting to drink with time in the bottle, but the capacity of local reds to deliver on this has not been examined in any meaningful way in recent times. Thus was born the 2013 RE:CM 10 Year Old Wine Awards. METHODOLOGY A call for submissions was made early in the year and the response was overwhelmingly positive 73 wines were received from 39 producers with many of those commonly regarded as the country s best participating (there are of course some notable absentees but often this was simply because they didn t have sufficient stock). The judging panel was chaired by me and also included Nkulu Mkhwanazi, wine educator and entrepreneur and Jörg Pfützner, internationally trained and certified sommelier. Results were audited by chartered accountants and business advisers PKF. Wines were judged blind by the three-person panel, scoring done according to the 20 point/5 Star system. After the first round of judging was concluded, 14 wines were considered to have particular distinction and these went through to a second round where the panel could give them a more detailed examination here wines were tasted without any indication of variety or style. KEY FINDINGS To observe that the vast majority of wines, perhaps 90 per cent, will not be improved when five years old, let alone 10, is not pessimistic just realistic. Even so, the overall quality of the line-up in this tasting was relatively high a full 51 out of 73 were rated 3 Stars (defined as above average ) or better. Why might this be so? For one thing, 2003 was a cracking vintage, described in Platter s 2013 as (o)utstanding, especially for reds concentrated and structured, and often slow to show their best. There is of course a distinction between wines that have merely survived and those that have improved, emerging more refined and complex by virtue of the ageing process, and in this regard there were the three best wines overall plus a further 14 to rate 4 Stars or better. Out of the top three, two examples of Shiraz, the exquisite Boekenhoutskloof and the less polished but very characterful Rudera (from 14 submitted). The good showing of these two wines suggests that the massive commitment that the industry has made to this variety in recent times (total plantings increasing by nearly 680% from 1997 to 2011) is not entirely misplaced. The other wine in the top three is Remhoogte Estate Wine 2003, a Merlot- Cab-Pinotage blend for all intents and purposes made by Bordeaux-based oenological consultant Michel Rolland. Rolland is a controversial figure on account of supposedly favouring a fruit-heavy, oak-prominent style but this particular offering is anything but. Classic and restrained, to quote Pfützner.

3 As for the other top performing wines, there were seven Bordeaux-style red blends (out of 21), another four miscellaneous red blends (out of nine), two examples of single-variety Cabernet Sauvignon (out of 17) and one Pinotage (out of six). Difficult to draw any hard and fast conclusions based on a one-off tasting of this nature but it would seem that generally blends rather than single-variety wines are more suited to being cellared, perhaps because they have more inherent complexity to start with. That said, Cabernet Sauvignon, at least as a constituent part, features in 13 of the top 17 wines hardly a surprise given the variety s well documented maturation potential. Much is claimed of Pinotage s longevity and it s therefore something of a surprise to note only one example, namely Kanonkop, among the top wines. The feeling among the panel was that what appeared in this line-up were somewhat clumsy with over-ripe fruit and hard tannins. A case of winemakers overreaching themselves? One of the purposes a tasting like this serves is that allows developments in the country s general state of winemaking to be tracked and one particular issue that emerged was that many of the wines appeared excessively tart, presumably the result of unfortunate acid additions South Africa is always going to struggle for freshness over ripeness given its abundant sunshine but it is hoped that winemakers have subsequently become more thoughtful when it comes to the use of tartaric. What of the role played by site? Out of the 17 top wines, 13 are from vineyards that fall within the district of Stellenbosch although Constantia, Franschhoek, Paarl and Wellington are also represented by Buitenverwachting, Chamonix, Vilafonté and Boekenhoutskloof respectively. In conclusion, then, it appears that South African top-end reds are just about capable of making a decade in bottle (which is more than some are prepared to acknowledge). The trick going forward is to match variety to site and then apply method of vinification in such a way that greatness rather than the merely adequate is achieved more often. RATING DEFINITIONS Tasting notes for the 51 wines to rate 3 Stars or better appear below. Ratings are defined as follows: FIVE STARS: Extraordinary, profound. FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Outstanding. FOUR STARS: Excellent. THREE AND A HALF STARS: Very good. THREE STARS: Above average.

4 TOP THREE FIVE STARS Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2003 Alc 14.8% RS 2g/l TA 5.59g/l ph 3.89 From a single vineyard in Wellington. Matured for 27 months in only used French oak. Hugely complex showing red and black fruit, floral perfume, crushed herbs, spice and some pepper. Pure and fresh with fine tannins. Still remarkably primary with great flavour intensity a very precise offering. FOUR AND A HALF STARS Remhoogte Estate Wine 2003 Alc 14.38% RS 2g/l TA 5.1g/l ph % Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Pinotage. Matured for 22 months in French oak, 40% new. Upfront red and black fruit (cherries, cassis) offset by some herbal and spicy notes. Oak smartly used adding just a hint of dark chocolate. A carefully assembled wine which appears medium bodied with well integrated acidity and fine tannins. Rudera Syrah 2003 Alc 14% RS 2.4g/l TA 5.4g/l ph 3.9 From Faure and Koelenhof vineyards. Matured for 11 months in French oak, 20% new. The nose shows red and black fruit, some floral character but also earthy, malty notes. Pleasantly sweet on entry but offset by fresh acidity. Has a noble rusticity about it powerful but not at the expense of complexity.

5 ALSO FOUR AND A HALF STARS Chamonix Troika 2003 Red and black fruit. pencil shavings plus a lightly herbaceous note on the nose. Some appealing savoury character also in evidence. Medium bodied with fresh acidity and firm but fine tannins. Elegant and restrained. Morgenster 2003 Red and black berries plus pencil shavings and touch of earthiness on the nose. Full bodied with pure fruit, bright acidity and fine tannins. Really complex many subtle layers of flavour and still remarkably primary. Tokara 2003 Optimally ripe dark fruit on the nose and palate. Modern in the best sense plenty of concentration but remains well balanced and characterful. Clean fruit, vibrant acidity, firm but fine tannins. FOUR STARS Alto Rouge 2003 Red and black fruit, some smokiness and spice on the nose. Medium bodied and quite savoury overall. Pleasing but at its peak. Buitenverwachting Christine 2003 Red and black berries, slight green edge and some cigar box on the nose. Pleasingly austere with pure fruit, vibrant acidity and firm tannins making for a long, dry finish. Lourens River Valley 2003 (Morgenster) Red and black fruit, slight herbal edge plus some savoury, developed notes. Good concentration, bright acidity and firm tannins. Appealing but perhaps a bit foursquare. De Trafford Elevation Dark fruit, some floral perfume and oak spice on the nose. Good richness but also balance great line of acidity and chewy tannins. Sits at a stylistic extreme powerful and weighty but has real character. Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2003 Expressive nose with plenty of dark fruit, an attractive herbal edge and oak spice. Great concentration, fresh acidity and fine tannins. Intense and still very youthful. Kanonkop Pinotage 2003 Dark fruit but also lots of herbal, earthy and spicy complexity. Medium bodied and well balanced with good concentration, bright acidity and firm but not hard tannins. Stellenzicht Rhapsody 2003 Ultra-ripe dark fruit, chocolate and spice on the nose and palate. A real blockbuster appearing big and rich on the palate. Sweet on entry, acidity soft but sufficient. Satisfyingly long on the finish.

6 Uitkyk Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003 Red and black fruit, spice and some earthiness on the nose and palate. Medium bodied with a pleasant sweet n sour character although a bit astringent on the finish. Uitkyk Carlonet 2003 Cassis. some herbal character and vanilla on the nose. Concentrated palate with fresh acidity and firm tannins. Rich and full but feels quite heavily extracted lacks a little nuance and lift. Vilafonté Series C 2003 Ripe dark fruit plus oak-derived chocolate and smoky notes on the nose. Appears modern but precise rich and full with clean fruit, soft but sufficient acidity, smooth textured. Vriesenhof Cabernet Sauvignon l Red and black fruit, fynbos and some plus attractive evolved character. Medium bodied with bright acidity and fine tannins. Particularly elegant and restrained. THREE AND A HALF STARS Alto Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Plum, black currant, violets plus a herbal edge on the nose. Juicy fruit, bright acidity, fine tannins. Well balanced but not super-complex: drinking well now. Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Red and black fruit plus an attractive floral note on the nose. Medium bodied with fresh acidity and fine tannins. Harmonious and understated. Clos Malverne Pinotage Reserve 2003 Dark fruit, mint and an earthy note on the nose. Rich and full on the palate. Sweet on entry, but this offset by vibrant acidity and tannins which are still quite firm. Dornier Donatus Red 2003 Dark fruit, violets and a hint of mint on the nose. Clean and pure on the palate with fresh acidity and firm but fine tannins. Well balanced and understated. Grangehurst Nikela 2003 Dark fruit, pencil shavings and some savoury notes on the nose. Intense black fruit, acidity fresh to the point of tart and quite firm tannins. Grangehurst Pinotage 2003 Ultra-ripe red and black fruit, some earthy notes on the nose and palate. Appears big and slightly sweet with tannins already quite soft but plenty going on. Hamilton Russell Vineyards Pinot Noir 2003 Red fruit, some varietal perfume but also a truffle-like tertiary note. Rich and ripe with moderate acidity and fine, mouth-coating tannins.

7 Jordan Cobblers Hill 2003 Red and black fruit, mixed herbs and pencil shavings on the nose. Good concentration, bright acidity and fine tannins. Restrained and savoury with long, very dry finish. Rustenberg John X Merriman 2003 Ripe dark fruit and cedar on the nose. Big and rich slightly sweet on entry, moderate acidity and smooth tannins. Somewhat hot on the finish. Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2003 Cassis, some leafiness and oak spice on the nose and palate. Powerful, intensely flavoured wine with bright acidity and good tannic grip. Slightly hot on the finish. Scali Syrah 2003 Dark berries and spice on the nose and palate. Rich and ripe with good fruit concentration, moderate acidity and smooth tannins. Slightly hot on the finish. Simonsig Tiara 2003 Red and black berries, crushed herbs and cigar box on the nose. Full bodied and powerful with good fruit concentration, vibrant acidity. Heavily extracted will tannins ever soften? Also plenty of oak in evidence. Stellenzicht Syrah 2003 Plums, black cherry, some pepper and chocolate on the nose and palate. Big and bold ultra-ripe fruit, plenty of oak but also vibrant acidity. Hearty rather than super-complex. Vergenoegd Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Dark fruit, attractive leafy quality and pencil shavings on the nose. Pleasantly austere on the palate vibrant acidity and firm but fine tannins. Classically styled. Vriesenhof Kallista 2003 Red and black fruit, tomato cocktail as well as notable oak on the nose. Good fruit expression, vibrant acidity and a long, savoury finish. THREE STARS Allesverloren Touriga Naçional 2003 Upfront black fruit and a slight spicy note on the nose and palate. Extra bright acidity and firm to the point of hard tannins. Still lively but not overly complex. Beaumont Shiraz 2003 Red fruit, hint of vanilla and some savoury developed character. Appealing but lacks very great concentration or length.

8 De Trafford Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Ultra-ripe blue and black fruit but also paradoxically a slight green edge. Very rich and full with a smooth texture and a somewhat hot finish. De Trafford Merlot 2003 Plums, touch of mint and cocoa on the nose. Appealing thanks to clean fruit but lacks real concentration and structure. Fleur du Cap Cabernet Sauvignon l Somewhat old-fashioned with dark fruit and a slight green edge, acidity bordering on tart, the tannins very firm. Nicely austere but no showstopper. Grangehurst Woolworths Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Classic nose showing cassis and some herbal undertones. Good fruit expression plus some tertiary character starting to show but acidity stands apart. Grangehurst Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2003 Red and black fruit, mixed herbs plus some pleasing developed character. Medium bodied with bright acidity and fine tannins. Elegant and understated should not be dispensed with too quickly. Mooiplaas Cabernet Sauvignon l Red and black fruit, violets and some herbal character. Has interest but some might find it too advanced fruit lacking and finish a touch astringent. Neethlingshof Lord Neethling Pinotage 2003 Red and black fruit, chocolate and oak spice on the nose. Rich and full but balanced dramatic if not particularly refined. Remhoogte Aigle Noir 2003 Upfront red and black berries, definite green edge and vanilla on the nose. Modern in style showing ripe fruit, soft acidity and quite heavy extraction but not entirely unsuccessful. Rijk's Private Cellar Bravado 2003 Dark fruit and oak dust on the nose. Fruit tending towards over-ripe, oak very prominent. Ambitious but somewhat overdone. Rijk's Private Cellar Shiraz 2003 Black fruit, mint, coconut and a tar-like note on the nose. Sweet on entry but this offset by bright acidity, some pepper on the finish. Powerful and weighty love it or hate it stuff. Signal Hill La Siesta Grenache 2003 Red fruit, earth and spice. Medium bodied with a savoury edge. Rustic but not without appeal.

9 Simonsig Frans Malan 2003 Red and black fruit, some spice on the nose and palate. Pleasant enough but lacks concentration and the acidity sits apart Simonsig Merindol Syrah 2003 Red and black fruit, vanilla and spice. Rich and full with a smooth texture. Shows signs of decline in the sense of lacking freshness and tension. Simonsig Pinotage 2003 Black cherry, coffee plus some evolved character on the nose. Sweet on entry, moderate acidity, quite coarse tannins. Pleasant but unremarkable. Vergenoegd Estate 2003 Black fruit, mixed herbs plus some earthy character. Medium bodied with fresh acidity and firm but fine tannins. Classically styled and worthy of further consideration. Villiera Monro 2003 Red and black fruit, violets, mixed herbs and pencil shavings on the nose. Medium bodied with fresh acidity and fine tannins. Pleasing but no great depth or complexity. Zandvliet Kalklveld Shiraz l Red and black fruit, fynbos and some smoky character. Clean fruit, fresh acidity but lacks real intensity, possibly starting to fade.

INTRODUCTION KEY FINDINGS

INTRODUCTION KEY FINDINGS INTRODUCTION Just how well do modern-era South African wines perform as they get older? One of the most important measures of great wine is that it should be age-worthy, that is it should become more pleasurable