John Anster, from Faust by Goethe
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- Daniel Miles
- 5 years ago
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5 Until one is committed, there is hesitancy, the chance to draw back, always ineffectiveness. But the moment one definitely commits oneself, then Providence moves too. All sorts of things occur to help one, things that would never otherwise have occurred. John Anster, from Faust by Goethe
6 Fondo San Giuseppe. My farming company is at Brisighella, 400 metres above sea level. The soil is a clay and limestone mud with stony marl, and is rich in organic substances. I decided to buy the farm in 2008, to satisfy a need that had become very strong for me. After working for ten years in other vineyards, I wanted to express my own sentiment and my own vision, as a producer and a vintner. I chose Brisighella because I find it to be a town set in a valley that is still unspoilt and where nature has remained intact, with its river, hills and olive groves, and its many woods.
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8 THE PHILOSOPHY OF OUR FARM. Certified Company Philosophically I feel close to the natural wines movement, and personally I see wine as a spontaneous fruit of the land, influenced as little as possible by the technical operations of men. My company is an organic farm, certified by the ICEA Environmental and Ethical Certification Institute. For me, organic farming is a belief, and not something done just for convenience. I was already convinced of the effectiveness of this method twenty years ago, while I was still an agricultural student and began to understand the destructive impact of chemicals on the environment and on the healthiness of agricultural produce. Even then I was interested the agriculture of the early 1800s, when the fertilizer and pesticide industries were still unknown, and farmers knew how to interpret the soil with skills passed down for thousands of years.
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10 In different places, vines always express themselves in different ways, and this is why a real wine must never be only biodynamic/organic, but must also be good, and distinguished by the originality of where it comes from, thanks to the work of a well-adapted vine.
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12 VINES AND VINEYARDS. The farm has four and a half hectares of vineyards, one hectare of pastureland and eleven hectares of woodland. The woodland is indispensable for the wellbeing of the agricultural and environmental system. The main vine varieties are: Albana, Trebbiano, white Riesling, Chardonnay, Marsanne, Red Albana and Centesimino.
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14 VINEYARD MANAGEMENT, GRAPE HARVESTING AND WINERY PROCESSES. Vineyard management: In accordance with organic farming requirements, no artificial products are used, and soil fertility is enhanced by using green manure methods. No insecticides are used. For fungicides, only sulphur and copper in low application dosages are used. Vines are pruned and tied manually. The grassy turf is mown mechanically, and no chemical weedkillers are applied. Every attempt is made to reduce the transit of farm vehicles to a minimum, to avoid soil compaction.
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16 Harvesting: Grapes are harvested by hand, and are placed in small crates. The crates are then taken to the winery without the addition of substances like dry ice or sulphur dioxide. Grapes are usually picked in the afternoon, and are left overnight beneath a lean-to roof to allow their temperature to fall naturally. The next morning they are pressed. Destemming and pressing: White grapes are treated with a destemmer and pressing machine that first strips the grapes from their stalks and then crushes them lightly between two rollers. The must, skins and seeds are transferred to a press with horizontal plates that allow juice to flow out. The free-run juice, which has been in contact with the skins for several hours, is then transferred into traditional concrete vats for the alcoholic fermentation process. During pressing, no nitrogen or other gases are used to prevent oxidation of the must, the temperature is not controlled, and no sulphur dioxide is added. The same procedure is followed for red grapes, but in this case the skins are macerated in the must for 10 to 20 days, depending on the grape variety and the production year.
17 Fermentation: Yeasts or sulphur dioxide are not added during the fermentation process. The must starts to ferment spontaneously, using only its own natural yeasts present on the grape skins and in the winery itself. Fermentation takes place in traditional concrete vats each holding 10 hectolitres, without the temperature being controlled. The walls of these vats are 15 centimetres thick and guarantee low fermentation temperatures, eliminating the need for artificial cooling systems. When fermentation has terminated, the lees are stirred by hand, and racking operations are performed manually. These processes are carried out in the presence of oxygen, without using inert gases like nitrogen or carbon dioxide.
18 Sulphur dioxide: This substance is used only before bottling, in very low dosages. On average a quantity of 60 mg/litre of total sulphur dioxide is used. The Italian limit for conventional white wines is 200 mg/litre, while the European limit for organic wines is 150 mg/litre. Maturation of wines: This is also carried out in the traditional ten-hectolitre concrete vats. The wine clears in a totally natural way by means of the spontaneous sedimentation of suspended particles under the effect of gravity. No clarification processes with albumen or casein are used. No tartaric stabilization is carried out. This is why our wines have a natural deposit of tartrates at the bottom of the bottle, which has absolutely no effect on the taste and bouquet of the wine. Additives: No other substances apart from sulphur dioxide are added to the wine, such as for example active carbon for winemaking, food-grade gelatines, isinglass, lactalbumin, pectolytic enzymes, sorbic acid, lactic acid bacteria, lysozyme, gum arabic and others. Clarification: If necessary, wine is clarified only once using natural clay before being bottled. The clay is deposited by gravity at the bottom of the barrel, where it remains when the wine is racked off, without leaving any traces of clay in the wine.
19 Filtration: Wines are bottled after being coarsely filtered. The filtration process uses natural cellulose meshes that release no residues into the wine. Mesh pores of at least 3 microns are used, to avoid altering the structure of the wine. Fondo San Giuseppe produces wines using only grapes from its own vineyards. It does not buy wine from other producers. The grapes used are certified as organic by the ICEA. Since the production year of 2012, winemaking processes have also been granted organic certification, allowing the wording ORGANIC WINE to be shown on the label. Certified Company
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21 In our society, few privileges compare to that of having land and being able to transform a fruit as perfect as the grape. The risks, with respect to the satisfaction of success, are infinitely less.
22 Téra is dialect for land. It is from the land that the skills, traditions and sustenance of mankind come. Trebbiano The grapes come from two small vineyards facing north, at an altitude of 400 metres and just by the woods, with a total surface area of 0.7 hectares. The first vineyard was planted in 1970, and the second ten years later. Given the altitude, northwards exposure and poverty of the soil, the overall grape production per hectare is about two tonnes. With this low production, the grapes are able to give the wine a good concentration. The grapes are picked by hand and are transported to the winery without the use of additives. They are fermented naturally in traditional concrete vats of 10 hectolitres, without the addition of selected yeasts or malolactic bacteria. When fermentation has been completed, the lees are stirred by hand and pumping-over is performed manually. The wine is matured for six months in concrete vats and for four more months in the bottle.
23 Description: Straw yellow in colour, with an expressly varietal olfactory spectrum, with the aromas typical of Trebbiano grapes, recalling freshly mown grass, jasmine and a mineral note. Elegant in the mouth, with a body that is not opulent but with well-balanced freshness and minerality. It can benefit from aging in the bottle for a few years, giving it complexity and elegance. Pairings: Raw scampi, or cooked in a pan and lightly flavoured with Mediterranean spices. I suggest serving at 12 C in a large glass.
24 The name comes from the union of the words caro amore, meaning dear love. This is the feeling that should be the mover of all things. Chardonnay Personally I feel a very deep love for the land and for nature, that nature that the Romantic poets called the visible spirit of the Creator. The grapes come from a vineyard facing northeast that is over twenty years old, with a surface area of 0.7 hectares. The soil is a limestone clay, and is very stony and rather poor. This means that production is always very low, at about two tonnes, and the grapes have an excellent concentration and a rich olfactory spectrum. The grapes are picked by hand, and the bunches are carefully placed in small crates for transport to the winery, without the addition of dry ice or sulphur dioxide. Fermentation takes place in traditional concrete vats of 10 hectolitres, with very thick walls that make temperature control unnecessary. After fermentation, the lees are stirred by hand,
25 and racking operations are performed manually. The wine matures for six months in concrete vats and for four months in the bottle. Description: Intense straw yellow in colour. Fruity aromas prevail distinctly to the nose, and in particular the smell of ripe wild pears and chalky mineral notes. In the mouth it shows a broadness and structure that gives it gustatory and olfactory persistence. Pairings: Gnocchi potato dumplings with fish sauces, scallops in pea or asparagus sauces, but also with baked fish and crustacean risottos. I suggest serving at 11 C in a large glass.
26 Ciarla means to talk. This is what I ask from a wine. It must talk about itself, reveal itself and disclose its territory of origin, and the feeling and intentions of the producer. WHITE RIESLING The vineyard, over twenty years old, is at an altitude of 400 metres and faces northeast, with a surface area of 0.7 hectares. Its altitude and exposure allow it to benefit from notable temperature changes, which help the vines to develop their aromatic expressiveness. Grapes are usually picked by hand in the second ten days of September. The bunches are placed in small crates that are transported to the winery without the addition of dry ice or sulphur dioxide. Fermentation takes place in traditional concrete vats of 10 hectolitres, with very thick walls that make temperature control unnecessary. When alcoholic fermentation has ended, the lees are stirred by hand, and racking operations are performed manually. The wine is matured in the same fermentation vats, and lasts for six months, followed by three more months in the bottle before being ready for sale.
27 Description: Straw yellow in colour, with a good intensity. To the nose, the varietal note is perceptible above all in floral and fruity aromas, which while the wine is still young dominate over tertiary notes of hydrocarbons that disappear after aging for at least three to four years in the bottle. Fragrant in the mouth, with a good balance between viscosity and freshness. Pairings: Raw crustaceans and steamed fish flavoured with Mediterranean spices. I suggest serving at 11 C in a large glass.
28 This name is used in the dialect of Romagna for the place where swallows nest. The vineyard is directly by a cliff in which swallows build their nests, and was planted in 1988, with a surface area of 0.3 hectares. Grapes are picked by hand and are transported to the winery without the addition of sulphur dioxide or other substances. Fermentation takes place in traditional concrete vats of 10 hectolitres, in which the wine is later matured for six months, with the lees stirred by hand and pumping-over operations performed manually. The wine ferments spontaneously, without the addition of yeasts or malolactic bacteria, and none of its original components are modified. Tartaric stabilization is not used, and therefore the bottled wine could have a slight sediment at the bottom, without affecting its characteristics of taste and bouquet. Marsanne Description: An intense straw yellow in colour, and swirling the wine in the glass a certain density can be noted.
29 It has strong and distinctive olfactory characteristics, with chestnut honey, hints of minerals and chamomile, and slightly smoky notes. In the mouth it shows viscosity, good density and persistence. Pairings: Can accompany dishes with a certain consistency of flavour, like smoked salmon, baked seabass with rosemary or grilled fish. I suggest serving at 13 C in a large glass.
30 Fiorile is the Italian name for Floréal, the eighth month of the French Republican Calendar, starting on 20 April and ending on 19 May. The reference to this calendar is nothing more than a wish for the redemption of the land, seen as a benign mother. Albana The grapes come from an old vineyard of just one hectare, planted over forty years ago. The grapes are picked by hand, and the bunches are carefully placed in small crates for transport to the winery, without the addition of sulphur dioxide or dry ice. Harvesting takes place in early September, so as to conserve the full aromatic fragrance and acidity of the grapes. Production is about two tonnes per hectare, allowing the grapes to develop a spontaneous concentration of sugars and all the other substances that contribute in the gustatory and olfactory expression of the wine. Fermentation takes place in traditional concrete vats of 10 hectolitres, without maceration of the grape skins. No yeasts, sulphur dioxide or other substances are
31 added. The wine is matured in concrete vats for 12 months, with the lees stirred by hand and pumping-over operations performed manually. Fiorile is not subjected to tartaric stabilization, and the bottled wine could therefore have a slight sediment of tartrates at the bottom, without affecting its expressiveness. Description: For me, Fiorile is definitely a wine of the local territory, where this old vine variety is able to express itself without interference, without being tamed either in its colour or its distinct acidity. The colour is an amber yellow with copper tinges. Broad to the nose, it has notes of pine resin, citrus fruits, apricot and mineral hints that come from the muddy limestone soil. In the mouth it shows freshness, but also a tactile element that comes from the tannins in the skins. Pairings: Cappellacci pasta with pumpkin fillings and meat sauces, but also with sweet Ferrara pasta pies, or with baked or grilled eel. I suggest serving at 14 C in a large glass.
32 The name Ésor is rosé written backwards. The two varieties are harvested together by hand, and after destemming and crushing, the grape skins are macerated in the must for a week. The red colour of the muscat grape skins helps to give Ésor its coppery pink tone. After racking off the must from the skins, alcoholic fermentation continues for another ten days. When fermentation ends, the lees are stirred by hand for another two months. The wine then matures for twelve months in a concrete vat, and for six months in the bottle. Description: Offers fragrant touches to the nose, with floral notes, but also with citrus fruits and mineral notes. Intense in the mouth, with a good structure sustained by a lively and very distinct acidity. chardonnay AND Rosé Muscat Pairings: Tuna or steak tartare, or with smoked salmon.
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34 This name comes from col l anima, or with the soul. The grapes come from a small twenty-year-old vineyard facing north, completely surrounded by woodland and with an overall area of 0.3 hectares. Between the rows of Red Albana, a vine known to have been cultivated in Romagna since ancient times, there are a few rows of Centesimino. The two varieties are harvested manually and processed for fermentation in late September. This wine was made for the first time in Fermentation takes place in traditional concrete vats of 10 hectolitres, with the skins macerated for about three weeks. The wine is matured for ten months in the same fermentation vats, and for six months in the bottle. RED ALBANA AND CENTESIMINO Description: Intense ruby red in colour, with an olfactory spectrum that opens at once with fruity notes of ripe red berries, like redcurrants and raspberries. Together with these fragrances, spicy components can also be perceived very distinctly, like liquorice
35 and leather. The structure is not opulent, and has refined and balanced flavours. The tannins are lively and perceptible, and give the wine the potential for long aging. Pairings: With traditional local salami, aged and strongly flavoured, but also with roast chicken, turkey or rabbit. I suggest serving at 17 C in a large glass.
36 This name comes from the Latin Voca me, meaning call me. I imagined it was the wine, speaking to us almost in a whisper, saying: Voca me, call me, choose me. So that it can tell us about how it came to interpret this land. RED ALBANA AND CENTESIMINO SWEET RED RAISIN WINE The grapes come from a small twenty-year-old vineyard facing north, completely surrounded by woodland and with an overall area of 0.3 hectares. Between the rows of Red Albana, a vine known to have been cultivated in Romagna since ancient times, there are a few rows of Centesimino. The two varieties are harvested manually in mid- October, after being left to dry on the vines. The grapes are placed in small crates and are then transported to the winery for fermentation, which takes place in traditional concrete vats of 10 hectolitres, with the skins macerated for about three weeks. The wine is matured for ten months in the same fermentation vats, and for six months in the bottle. The wine has a natural sugar residue of 60 mg/litre.
37 Description: Intense ruby red in colour. The olfactory spectrum opens at once with note of over-ripe red fruits like blackberries, cherries and redcurrants. The olfactory notes are intense, remaining persistently clear. Dense at first in the mouth, with a tactile sensation of sweetness and softness, but well balanced by the acidity and tannins, which help to create a broad and voluminous texture. The structure is not opulent, giving the wine an excellent elegance even when preceded by a number of dry wines. Pairings: Fruit tarts, chocolate desserts or fancy pastries and biscuits. I advise serving at 14 C in a large glass. I suggest decanting all the wines 15 minutes before drinking. Any presence of tartrates at the bottom of the bottle is an indication of the natural winemaking process. These deposits have absolutely no effect on the taste and bouquet expressed by the wine.
38 Natural grape farming works towards a balanced ecosystem, meaning that some of the vineyard must be sacrificed to leave space for woodland, so that the vines can fully express their territory.
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40 PRESS REVIEWS. Gambero Rosso Vini d Italia 2011 Fiorile wineglasses Téra wineglasses Le Guide de L Espresso I Vini d Italia 2011 Téra /20 Slow Wine Guida Slow Food Editore Fiorile 2008
41 The more plants are treated naturally, avoiding harming them with chemicals and other external agents, the more they are able to faithfully express the sky above them, the soil that nourishes them, and the human hand that tends them. In this sense, the role of the producer and custodian becomes fundamental: not a manipulator, but a joint creator of the final product.
42 Fondo San Giuseppe Farming Company Via Tura Brisighella (RA) WHERE WE ARE. Directions by road. From the A14 motorway, Faenza exit: Follow the signs for Brisighella on the SS 302 road. After Brisighella continue towards Florence. After the village of Casale, look for the yellow signpost on the left for Valpiana. Then turn left for Valpiana and Via Tura. From the SS 302 road, from the south (from Tuscany,) pass San Cassiano and Sant Eufemia. After the sign for the 7 $ Dollari restaurant look for the yellow signpost on the right for Valpiana. Then turn right for Valpiana and Via Tura.
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44 Fondo San Giuseppe Fondo San Giuseppe Farming Company Land: Via Tura, Brisighella (RA), Italy Stefano Bariani Mobile: info@fondosangiuseppe.it Mariagrazia Rizzati Mobile: info@fondosangiuseppe.it
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