2015 Bordeaux Vintage Assessment and Tasting Notes

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1 2015 Bordeaux Vintage Assessment and Tasting Notes The Great and the merely good. The day we flew back from Bordeaux a colleague said to me that he had felt a greater sense of satisfaction and optimism last year than this year. I had some empathy with his comments having been battling with my own thoughts on whether we were tasting a great Bordeaux vintage or just a very good one. It is, I guess, about expectation. With the 2014's, against a rather skeptical set of early media reviews, we were pleasantly surprised to taste a vintage with some very promising wines. Given the early pronouncements from the Bordeaux media machine, for the 2015s only the finest barrel samples would measure up. In 20 years of tasting Bordeaux en primeur I don't think I have ever concluded an en primeur tasting week with this question still in doubt in my mind. Great vintages indelibly mark your memory with certainty - vintages such as 2000, 2005, 2009 & So, on balance, I guess the answer must be "no", 2015 is not universally a 'great' Bordeaux vintage. But such is the complexity of this question, and it is probably a futile one anyway, as we know there are no great wines only great bottles so the idea of extending this generalization to the breadth of an entire Bordeaux crop is surely inappropriate. What we can categorically report is that some estates have produced monumental wines in 2015, and unique wines which will delight Bordeaux lovers sooner than they might have expected. Also this is a vintage which will show significant gains from barrel aging, and lift many wines from very good to great. There is much to be optimistic about but selection remains key. Vintage Characteristics The style of the vintage is feminine, refreshing, elegant, seductive and vibrant. These are not, on the whole, big bruising monsters though they are built to last. In the same way great Pinots seem to age for ever, longevity does not need to come from enormous structure, it comes from balance and harmony, these characteristics we found time and time again. Burgundian was an adjective I used of all places at Cos D'Estournel, a chateau whose wines have been known in some vintages, such as 2009, for huge concentration. The skill of a wine-making team is to retain

2 and reflect the best characteristics of the fruit they are blessed with, having let Mother Nature do its bit with their given terroirs. The Merlot grape has been particularly successful benefitting most from the climatic vagaries in September and October. Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon were also exceptional at many estates particularly those with superior drainage and where the precipitation was less prevalent. The Right Bank and Graves regions are exceptional and with the added embellishments of a year in cask are destined for greatness. The pinnacle probably in Pomerol, VCC was a revelation. Saint Emilion is also very fine, possibly superior to 2009 at several estates, though many will ultimately fall short of the off the charts There will be some great value to be had from lesser known estates in Saint Emilion and Pomerol as well as from the satellite communes of Lalande de Pomerol, Fronsac and Cotes de Castillon was the benchmark year for the Graves region, and whilst it would be difficult to ascertain the same level in 2015, it could well be that this vintage will give more pleasure, in its immediacy and charm. On several occasions I had an unerring feeling that you underrate this vintage at your peril with our final visit at Chateau Haut Brion certainly set the cat amongst the pigeons, an extraordinary range! The Medoc is much less uniform and rarely hits the same dizzy heights. We could be witnessing however, the birth of a very fine Margaux vintage. The level is consistently very high and this is where the word homogeneity can be used. Factors affecting the style of the vintage 2015 was overall a very dry year with hydric stress a major concern in July. August brought welcome relief, rejuvenating the water table and unblocking the evolution. By this time, when veraison, the change of colour, takes place, the berry size had already been set, small with thick skins, this is where the vintage's tell-tale ripeness and silky textures come from. The harvest conditions were ideal, again generally dry with cool nights, helping shape the vintage's freshness and aromatics. The merlot crop would be picked in ideal conditions and at the vigneron s leisure, aiming for optimum ripeness per plot. Many of the top chateaux now have the currency to dissect and elevate dozens of different plots independently, all helping to improve the final assemblage. At Cheval Blanc we spoke with Pierre Olivier Clouet, the technical director, who explained that they had taken practically a whole month to pick, the result being almost every plot at perfect ripeness. Each plot is fermented separately. Barrel samples of each are blended together in many different combinations and tasted blind to select which blend works best for the first and second wine. The final assemblage for the first wine, consisted of all the plots except two which were ultimately discarded and sold off in bulk. And so for the first time since 1988 there will be no second wine at Chateau Cheval Blanc, a tribute to the overall consistency and quality of the harvest. This is extraordinary scenario but a familiar tale in this vintage, in general the percentage of first wine was comparatively at most chateaux and so there should be good volumes.

3 Two properties which stood out for me are deeply embroiled in biodynamic viticulture. Chateau Pontet Canet and Chateau Palmer. Here the yields were quite low, 30 hl/ha and 37 hl/ha, this is due to the vines being allowed to find their own natural vigour. According to Jean Michel Comme, the technical director at Chateau Pontet Canet, green harvesting, the cutting back of shoots to reduce the number bearing fruit, is an artificial way of reducing yields and sends signals to the vine roots to compensate and quicken growth. This creates a confusion and imbalance. It takes several years to correct this and it appears according to the quality of the wine here that a naturally low yield is preferable to a manipulated one. At Chateau Palmer Thomas Durroux explained that they had gradually reduced the yields over a number of years before implementing the bio-dynamic philosophy, and were happy to see the lower yields maintained. Should we buy this vintage? Demand for Bordeaux wines has improved this year so far, the prices have found a firm floor. Reduced and more reasonable en primeur pricing has worked acceptably well in the last three vintages, though it is too early to validate for the 2014's which will not land until next year. With current exchange rates falling against the Sterling I suspect they will look to have been a good buy. There are other valid reasons to buy en primeur other than price but with the fallout from the Bordeaux wine market collapse in 2012 still fresh in the memory, leaving consumers in negative equity for their 2009's, 10's & 11's, it is paramount that market prices are considered when pricing these new wines. We did hear some snippets of good sense on our rounds but almost unanimously talk on this subject is met with a Gallic shrug. The market will take an increase and I think we can expect one, 10% would be fair but 20% disappointing, any more than this with weak sterling could be regretful. A much increased taskforce was sent out to Bordeaux to taste this vintage. There were much bigger groups from the key merchants, whereas one or two representatives had be sent to assess the wines in the previous three or four vintages, this year even the office cleaner had turned out. This of course sends a clear message to the chateaux. Bordeaux wines are still of great interest to merchants and their customers. If the wines are released at anywhere near the 2014 prices they will get snapped up and there will be an active secondary market. This is good for the trade and consumers but not for the chateaux. Many of the top chateaux will be happy to sit on these wines. We did hear that there is likely to be a very restricted first tranche, hopefully it will be sufficient to service clients who bought last year. We also heard that the Americans are primed and ready to launch... Given the nature of the vintage, you need a merchant who has experience in en primeur tasting and one that you can trust, both in terms of selection and the ability to ensure delivery of your purchase in 2 years time. We remain at your disposal to discuss any of your questions and requirements. Top 10 Will s Top 10 for quality

4 VCC Haut Brion La Mission Margaux Palmer Ausone Angelus Eglise Clinet Mouton Rothschild Leoville Lascases Will s Top 10 for Value Canon Clos Fourtet Clinet Domaine de Chevalier Rauzan Segla Carmes Haut Brion Moulin Saint Georges Gloria Dame de Montrose Labegorce The Wines At Chateau Figeac Our first visit gave us a glimpse of the quality this year, deep colours and a very generous style which carried on throughout, the palate at the end of the week still in one piece. Chateau Figeac is quite unique on the right bank with an extraordinarily high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the vineyard. The chateau was very pleased and understandably so. Petit Figeac - 32% Merlot 20% Cabernet Franc 48% Cabernet Sauvignon Lovely ripe plummy nose, blueberry, earthy notes amongst, the oaky notes, quite dusty tannins. It's a bit shallow but nice ripeness and persistence /100, Figeac - 29% Merlot 28% Cabernet Franc 43% Cabernet Sauvignon Quite a deep colour, the nose is concentrated for sure, complex with violet and a savoury edge, touch of balsamic, a dense palate, restrained like the 2010, earthy notes again of the Cabernet Sauvignon coming through, inky, quite powerful, solid and strict. There is plenty of ripeness, this is balanced, a fine Figeac /100,

5 At Chateau L Eglise Clinet The overall success of the right bank became quite apparent through the quality level of Denis Durantou s Petits Chateaux. Great value to be had. Saintem Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 100% Merlot - 30% New Oak Very deep colour, violets again, quite complex and layered at this level, nicely supple and sweet, dusty, nice ripeness, carries the redcurrant style fruit on the finish well. Touch of licorice. Like this 88-90/ La Chenade Lalande de Pomerol - 80% Merlot 20% Cabernet Franc - 30% New Oak Nice deep colour, fresher fruit here, peachy, this again is nicely ripe, the freshness runs through it, touch of vanilla on the finish, more traditional and nervy, good again the length is excellent /100, Cruzelles Lalande de Pomerol - 90% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc - 45% New Oak The nose is similar to the La Chenade, fresh peachy notes, with a sweet strawberry edge, the palate here has a touch more texture and a deft touch, a bit more spice and savoury style on the finish, the oak peeking through a little more too. Long and impressive with good depth /100, Montlandrie Cotes de Castillon - 75% Merlot 20% Cabernet Franc 5% Cabernet Sauvignon - 45% New Oak Good deep robe, peachy creamy nose, quite rich, very fruit driven, a big opulent mouthfeel too, this is sexy, ripe tannins, nice dusty finish too, the oak is just right /100, La Petite Eglise Pomerol - 100% Merlot - 45% New Oak Back to the nose of the Cruzelles quite tropical, but fresh, hints of toffee, minty, lovely texture, ripe, lots of grip too looks to have good potential, an excellent Petite Eglise /100, L Eglise Clinet - 90% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc - 70% New Oak Great colour, the nose is bigger than the Petite as you would expect, very pure focused fruit coming through, hints of rose petal and violet, deep dark and exciting, black cherry coming through too, this is a big boy, dense and full, fresh with chalky tannins, textured, serious, savoury and toasty layers unfolding on the finish, for the long haul /100, At Chateau Pavie We always seem to taste here early morning, which is not ideal as these wines tend to be more extracted than some. Liked the Bellevue best as usual. Angelique De Monbousquet Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc 10% Cabernet Sauvignon Good deep colour, open promising nose, quite rich, nice entry here, soft attractive, lowish acidity, finished well on the fruit well, with chocolate notes too, quite like this easy going style /100, Aromes de Pavie Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 66% Merlot 21% Cabernet Franc 13% Cabernet Sauvignon Deep, fresh fruit, quite dense and full here, the structure is more obvious. Correct and well-constructed but not exciting at this point /

6 Monbousquet Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 60% Merlot 30% Cabernet Franc 10% Cabernet Sauvignon 70%New Oak Very deep, controlled clean nose, with spicy elements, there is good concentration of fruit, savoury too, nice mouthfeel, again the palate is controlled, and it is elegant, with nice creamy mouthfeel, nicely balanced components, dusty finish. A Good Monbousquet / Pavie Decesse Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe- 90% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc - 100% New Oak Again very deep colour, there is an extra level of freshness to the fruit, creamy, strawberry, very pure, this has lots going on, lots of ripe plummy fruit, the structure is equally impressive, round dusty finish very long and impressive / Bellevue Mondotte Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 90% Merlot 5% Cabernet Franc 5% Cabernet Sauvignon- 100% New Oak Deep colour as always, a sexy black fruited compote on the nose, chocolate, there is an extra liqueur luxury feel here, better mid-palate, carries well into the length, freshness, very long this has plenty of finesse / Pavie Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe A - 60% Merlot 22% Cabernet Franc 18% Cabernet Sauvignon- 80% New Oak Very deep, nose is controlled, very concentrated but shy, more on the savoury side, earth and spice, the fruit is a little overpowered for me, it is there but will require considerable time to open out, the mid-palate is under wraps I was hoping for a little more rich fruit, it maybe just very tight at the moment / At Chateau Ausone Simard Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 80% Merlot 20% Cabernet Franc - 45 hl/ha Nice concentration of spice on the nose, ample fruit texture, medium structure, dusty tannins, narrow but good finish, oak coming through /100, Fonbel Saint Emilion Grand Cru 80% Merlot 10% Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Carmenere 5% Petit Verdot Deep plum, liqueur cherry on the nose, attractive purity, again this is correct, clean balanced and we made with a fresh finish / Haut Simard Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 60% Merlot 40% Cabernet Franc 30% New Oak 40 hl/ha Full plum, there is a touch more richness here on the nose, denser mid palate too, generous and fleshy with good attack, nice result / Moulin Saint Georges Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 80% Merlot 20% Cabernet Franc 85% New Oak 35 hl/ha Quite rich on the nose, broad, creamy vanilla, this is up a gear in the range, the fruit holds well against the structure, keeping it all going well into the chocolate tinged finish, this is a fine Moulin Saint Georges, the best for many years and a definite buy. The lower yield could be key here / La Clotte Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 80% Merlot 15% Cabernet Franc 5% Cabernet Sauvignon - 85% New Oak - 35 hl/ha - Old vines here. A salty intensity on the nose, concentrated, this is ample plummy, spicy on the finish, good texture, grips well easy length and well balanced. Good La Clotte. This was also very good last year, one to watch going forward /

7 Chapelle D'Ausone Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 45% Merlot 45% Cabernet Franc 10% Cabernet Sauvignon - 85% New Oak - 30 hl/ha Made from the young vines at Ausone, 15 years of age on average. Nice perfume here, fresh coffee hints, the fruit is under wraps a little, but it is there in the middle, juicy, nice balance, long elegant wine / Ausone Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe A- 50% Merlot 50% Cabernet Franc - 85% New Oak - 30 hl/ha 50 year old vines at Ausone. Composed perfumed nose, pure and mineral, violet, earth, there is the extra density here, very mineral with lots of freshness too. It is constituently impressive, long spiced finish, a calm wine, linear, will evolve beautifully I suspect. Leaves a real buzz on the finish. Femininity and elegance / At Vieux Chateau Certan Vieux Chateau Certan Pomerol - 80% Merlot 19% Cabernet Franc 1% Cabernet Sauvignon- 42 hl/ha Intense inky nose, meaty, this rolls on the tongue, very good mid-palate, round, soft, gentle, spicy, this has the acidity of the Really fine here, this has the extra dimension of the finest wines in this vintage, as per the estates own media this has gentle strength a great VCC 96-99/ At Chateau Beauregard The UGC Pomerol tasting held at the new and Chateau Beauregard s new and impressive cuverie, was one of the most enjoyable in memory. All the wines showed very well, undoubtedly a fine Pomerol vintage. Beauregard Pomerol - 75% Merlot 25% Cabernet Franc Lovely rich nose, savoury, meaty concentration, blackcurrant too. Very supple and open, balanced giving style. A Very good Beauregard, the new facilities will make a big difference here / Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol Lovely menthol edged concentration very ripe, creamy juice, very supple, oaky finish, shows very well this year. This is an excellent Bon Pasteur / La Cabanne Pomerol Nose is pure but muted, creamy edge, nice plump palate, easy extraction, chalky vanilla finish, positive length, excellent for the chateau / Clinet Pomerol Fresh fruit on the nose, pure, touch of redcurrant, plenty of generosity on the palate, this is singing, the fruit is the dominant, dusty chalky finish too plenty of potential a fine Clinet / La Croix de Gay Pomerol Nice intense nose slightly confectioned and jammy, plump, nice light extraction, ripe and balanced, mint on the finish. This is an early drinker. Another pleasant easy going Pomerol / Gazin Pomerol - 95% Merlot 5% Cabernet Franc Pure focused nose, this is as usual more sedate and firm than most in Pomerol, both on the nose and the palate. Cool fruit here mind, powerful and promising one to watch / Petit Villages Pomerol Good deep colour, tight nose, blueberries, the palate is unctuous, layered wine, lacy, a fine length too, a very lovely Petite Villages, possibly the best I have ever tasted! 92-94/

8 La Pointe Pomerol Lovely rich nose, broad, open, fresh flowers, creamy generous style, grips well, an elegant balanced La Pointe, not a block buster at all but will show well early and keep well too / At Chateau Cheval Blanc Cheval Blanc Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe A - 55% Merlot 45% Cabernet Franc The nose is fresh fruit, red fruit, horse hair, spice, ample texture and mid-palate, good freshness, lovely mouthfeel, round, very supple like the 1998, but I don t think it quite has the concentration of the finest vintages a very elegant wine though / Yquem Quite a deep colour for a primeur, a fine focused nose, honeyed, exotic, lovely aromatics, nice silky palate, cool fruit, good freshness, intense ripeness on the finish, spicy lovely overall satisfaction. This is quite a classic vintage shows some similarities with / At Chateau La Couspaude The Saint Emilion UGC tasting held at Chateau La Couspaude was less consistent with one or two wines verging on over extraction, but certainly there were some wonderful wines here and we came away feeling that this was a big step up from Canon La Gaffeliere Saint Emilion Grand Cu Classe 58% Merlot 38% Cabernet Franc 7% Cabernet Sauvignon Bright nose, cassis, firm meaty, cool fruit on the palate, good intensity and concentration, a dusty edge to the fruit on the finish, nice length, I like the intensity and persistence, oak shows. This is a very good Canon La Gaffeliere but perhaps lacks a bit of mid-palate density to contend with the very best in the commune / Dassault Saint Emilion Grand Cu Classe Very deep, Rich cassis, confectioned and jammy, but good concentration, a big mouthfeel here, lots of extraction and grip though on the finish, good potential, but will need time / Dominique Saint Emilion Grand Cu Classe Very deep colour, lovely pure black fruits here, black cherry and blackcurrant, minty edged, lovely intensity to the fruit on the nose and the palate, this is broad with good complexity as well as tension, dense, long and fine for me. This chateau is making seriously good wines these days / Fourtet Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cu Classe Great colour as deep as any, lovely elegant nose, red fruit compote serious and enticing, lovely ample ripe fruit here, textured, oaky, structured but balanced, this is a very fine effort and fine for the vintage. Clos Fourtet has made some exceptional wines and this is potentially as good as any 95-97/ Gaffeliere Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cu Classe Nice pure aromatics, black fruit, this is composed, fine fruit, clarity, nice medium weight with a light elegant finish, shows well / Grand Mayne Saint Emilion Grand Cu Classe Dark purple colour, very creamy black fruited nose, quite impressive, broad and focused, the palate is equally creamy, this is stylish, meaty, dense, complex oaky finish, a very good Grand Mayne. This is one of the best value estates in the whole of Saint Emilion, older vintages I have tasted have been in great condition, a three decade wine /

9 Larcisse Saint Emilion Grand Cu Classe This is very deep as usual. Impressive fruit here on the nose, modern and complex savoury tinged black fruits. The palate is dense, chewy and ripe, the tannins are chalky. This appears to be quite extracted this year, a bigger wine which will need time. A fine Larcisse / Pavie Macquin Saint Emilion Grand Cu Classe Deep colour, good calm nose quite tight, pure, impressive, this is packed with fruit, very layered and very impressive especially on the finish which reflects the balance here. Excellent.92-94/ Troplong Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cu Classe Very deep colour almost black, this has a simply beautiful nose, savoury, perfumed, very pure fruit. The palate is equally impressive, with mocha, voluptuous texture, bright fruits on the finish this is impressive. The structure comes steaming through at the back which is usual for Troplong, not for the faint hearted, but a great choice for the patient / At Chateau Lafleur Pomerol The scale of the operation at Chateau Lafleur is an eye opener, you could be in Burgundy. The attention to detail is palpable. Les Pensees de Lafleur Pomerol - 54% Merlot 46% Cabernet Franc Fresh fruit salad, charming, big mouthfeel, here, proportioned, lovely balanced wine, impressive spice on the finish. Delicious / Lafleur Pomerol - 51% Merlot 49% Cabernet Franc % Alcohol Tighter nose, creamy hints, redcurrant, this is layered, intense, with cool fruit, powerful but elegant big structure but coped with it quite easily. Really fine / At Chateau Angelus De Pressac Saint Emilion Grand Cru Nice and deep purple, impressive concentration on the nose, dark broody and savoury with a mocha edge. This is a big wine with black fruit intensity. I have never seen this wine at this level before. Will be excellent value / Carillon de Angelus Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 50% Merlot 40% Cabernet Franc 10% Cabernet Sauvignon Deep purple, ripe rich and structured attack, calm on the finish it's very well put together quite serious for a second wine / Angelus Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe A - 62% Merlot 38% Cabernet Franc Very deep colour, lovely intense creamy nose, blueberry, pure and focused, cool fruit, plump big style coating the mouth with plenty of chalky tannins, pain grille, typical of the chateau, it carries well very long. Complex. This is quite extracted compared to some, but the plentiful tannins are very ripe. Reminds me of the brilliant 2005, but it might be even better /

10 At Chateau Canon Canon Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe - 72% Merlot 28% Cabernet Franc Lovely deep colour, perfumed nose, smoky, inky, layered, great mouthfeel, overtly unctuous, very nice balance, very nice all round feeling, lots of dusty tannins, on the finish, very fine with great length. This is lush, but it will live long too, fine balance. This Chateau is back on form, last year was a great success too / At Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou Lalande de Borie Saint Julien - 55% Merlot 45% Cabernet Sauvignon Red Fruits, round supple, fresh, nice jammy style, good texture, nice balance good wine for early drinking / La Croix de Beaucaillou Saint Julien 52% Cabernet Sauvignon 42% Merlot 3% Petit Verdot Good full plum colour, there is plenty of depth on the nose, concentration here, a lot of flavour on the palate, complex, fresh and elegant, good intense style and balance. Like this / Ducru Beaucaillou Saint Julien - 95% Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Merlot 13.42% Alcohol Very deep colour, fine nose, tobacco, cedar, good texture here, lovely palate open and facile very ripe tannins this will be a beauty, very fine complex very elegant. Very long. This is an exceptional Ducru, one which the chateau rates alongside the finest ever produced / At Chateau Lafon Rochet Batailley Pauillac Full plum. Bright red and black fruit, good concentration, supple ripe, easy light fruit, this is nicely toasty, with good tension. The overall impression here is very good, up with the finest vintages / Grand Puy Lacoste Pauillac Very nice colour, nice blueberry fruit, black textured palate, there is freshness here, this grips well, and quite immediately, not as charming as hoped, the style looks to be more concentrated than elegant / Haut Bages Liberal Pauillac Nice deep purple. This is quite calm and subtle, plenty of friendly bright fruit notes, there is concentration for sure, finishes well too. Promising balance. A very impressive HBL, one of the very best, should be an excellent buy / Pichon Baron Pauillac Good deep colour, promising fruit on the nose, blackcurrant earthy notes, quite bright, this has pleasant texture, plump, fresh with an excellent finish, toasty. This is a step up in complexity and class. A fine wine for the vintage and chateau / Lynch Bages Pauillac Very deep colour, solid block on the nose, not very yielding, this is immediately silky on the palate, rich dense and impressive core of fruit, very fresh, great ripe tannins here ripe will be a classic Lynch Bages and a definite buy if the price is reasonable. This is a wine that never flatters en primeur, it is always foursquare, impenetrable, and a vintage like this it sings /

11 Ormes de Pez Saint Estephe Very full plum, attractive, pretty nose, suppleness, generosity, it is quite narrow but this will be a classic Medoc. Always a good buy / Lafon Rochet Saint Estephe Deep purple, this is open on the nose, jammy ripe black fruited nose, cool fruit on the palate, chewy, fresh, nice toasty finish, this is impressive this year.90-92/ At Chateau Pontet Canet Decanted and poured from carafe. Very deep purple, the nose is very intense, very perfumed, meaty, violet, slight metallic edge with intense orange marmalade too. The palate is very silky and sizeable, rich, lovely rhythm here, so elegant on the finish. A classic Pauillac, great finesse, this is lovely for me very classy with lots of energy low yield with no green harvest. Above all complex. First growth quality this year bravo. Probably the finest I have tasted from this biodynamic estate / At Chateau Mouton Rothschild This was a set of wines which Phillipe Dallhuin, in charge at Mouton since the 2004 vintage, spoke very proudly about, Petit Mouton and Clerc Milon in particular. Mouton is potentially the finest of the Pauillac first growths for me this year. D Armailhac Pauillac - 60% Cabernet Sauvignon 29% Merlot 9% Cabernet Franc 2% Petit verdot Impressive, bright perfume, rose petal, very pure, parma violets, the juice is ripe and vibrant, with sweet hints, the finish is tense and refined, has the hallmark of a fine D'Armailhac. Early drinker for the chateau / Clerc Milon Pauillac - 51% Cabernet Sauvignon 34% Merlot 13% Cabernet Franc 1% Petit verdot 1% Carmenere Deeper here in colour and intensity, more spice, perfumed, touch of savoury, a full nose, touch of cedar, this is complex, cool entry, round and textured, freshness with good solid structure, the fruit hangs well, I like this. The level at this chateau is on the rise under the direction of Philippe Dallhuin / Petit Mouton Pauillac - 78% Cabernet Sauvignon 17% Merlot 5% Cabernet Franc Medium full plum. A quite lovely wine, very charming, with bags of finesse, the nose has redcurrant and toasty coffee notes, the palate is quite firm and strict with a lovely juicy freshness. The finish hangs well, great elegance / Mouton Rothschild Pauillac - 82% Cabernet Sauvignon 16% Merlot 2% Cabernet Franc Full plum, tight nose with a touch of loganberry, perfumed, vanilla, really elegant and subtly composed, very mouton here strict and layered, soapy perfume on the finish, very ripe dusty tannins, very fine this year, an excellent Mouton. Great length spicy tobacco / Aile D'Argent 55% Sauvignon Blanc 43% Semillon 2% Muscadelle Very full nose, cat pee on the edge, perfumed, lychee, lots of supple texture, good tension and relaxed fruit, focussed long finish, lovely wine /

12 At Chateau Lafite Eric Kohler, the technical director at Chateau Lafite, talked about the purity of the 2015 vintage, he mentioned the 1996 as a comparator in this respect. Duhart Milon Pauillac - 73% Cabernet Sauvignon 27% Merlot Good deep plum, quite full on the nose with pain grille, spice, touch of heat, the palate is quite plump, textured and round, the appeal here is the overall impression, and the tension carries it well into a very long finish / Carruades de Lafite Pauillac - 57% Cabernet Sauvignon 36% Merlot 7% Cabernet Franc Full plum, narrow but pure on the nose, again very nice texture, the tension and minerality is very fine here, an extra level of depth on the finish, also very impressive though I am not sure it quite has the length of the Duhart / Lafite Rothschild Pauillac - 91% Cabernet Sauvignon 9% Merlot Good deep plum, nose again is quite tight, there is a pinpoint character to the aromatics, the palate is very textured, and layered, a sizeable black block here, a bit looser knit than usual, earthy notes on the finish, and the tannins are very ripe, long and fine /100 At Chateau Cos D Estournel Goulee by Cos D Estournel - 19% Cabernet Sauvignon 77% Merlot 4% Cabernet Franc % Alcohol Good deep colour, this is fresh fruited on the nose and really quite round and polished on the palate, open and charming style, good for a Petit Chateau.87-89/ Pagodas de Cos Saint Estephe - 44% Cabernet Sauvignon 46% Merlot 6% Cabernet Franc 4% Petit Verdot % Alcohol Medium full plum, this is quite open and fresh on the nose, fresh fruit salad, the palate is nicely polished, silky, sweet red fruits coming through, nice toast on the finish. Attractive / Cos D Estournel Saint Estephe - 75% Cabernet Sauvignon 23% Merlot 2% Cabernet Franc % Alcohol Quite deep colour, Lovely aromatics here, exotic, almonds, spicy, impressive and elegant, lovely fine palate, silky, almost Burgundian style, lighter in colour than some, less extracted, just easy and graceful winemaking, soft and generous, lovely purity, feminine. I like this, it is lighter than you might expect from this chateau, but it seems the nature of the vintage has been well respected / At Chateau Montrose Dame de Montrose Saint Estephe - 55% Cabernet Sauvignon 41% Merlot 4% Petit Verdot Deep Purple, Lovely fresh and enticing nice, lots of spicy plummy fruit, this is impressive very full, loose knit but unctuous stuff. Plump easy and quite a big wine, and surely excellent for a second wine, could be great value / Montrose Saint Estephe - 67% Cabernet Sauvignon 29% Merlot 4% Cabernet Franc Very deep colour, impressive richness on the nose, deep black fruits, tapenade, peppercorn. White pepper, this is cool on the nose, generous, ripe, round fresh, very fine almost unnoticeable tannins on the palate, coffee, dusty and long. Fine for the vintage especially on the left bank. Big selection here it shows in the concentration. This is quite different in style to the Cos, both excellent will be a great comparison /

13 At Chateau Calon Segur The team at Calon Segur are confident the 2015 will join the ranks of the finest vintages particularly with the additional structure from the barrelaging. Certainly there is plenty of generosity to take it. Excellent range here. Capbern Gasqueton Saint Estephe - 68% Cabernet Sauvignon 28% Merlot 4% Petit Verdot 60% New Oak 13.7 Alcohol Deep robe, good strength on the nose, richness, freshness, very ripe fruit, savoury notes, plump. Grainy, a bit dense. Plummy, earthy, ripe tannins. Good balanced finish with the acidity sweet tannins / Marquis de Calon Saint Estephe - 33% Cabernet Sauvignon 57% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc - 50% New Oak Alcohol Savoury nose, beefy, bacon fat, the palate is packed with sweet fruit, the tannins here are quite plentiful but ripe, toasty finish. Zingy too, like this, will be drinking in 3 years / Calon Segur Saint Estephe - 82% Cabernet Sauvignon 16% Merlot 2% Petit Verdot - 100% New Oak Alcohol Very deep colour, broody nose, entirely black fruit tinged, coming out, fine richness here, open intensity, creamy almost Crème Anglais, On the palate, very well endowed, with damson like fruit, toast on the finish, very good balance, nice tension here it is well wound, plenty of chalky tannins and juicy on the finish. Very attractive. Spicy / At Chateau Gruaud Larose The Saint Julien UGC tasting at Chateau Gruaud Larose, late on Wednesday afternoon, was very consistent. A fine range. Leoville Poyferre particularly impressive, and Gloria looking like a tremendous value. Beychevelle Saint Julien Nice intense perfume here, spicy, creamy nose, very ripe, supple plump palate, inky, nice freshness, toasty finish. From the D2 you cannot miss the investment going on here / Branaire Ducru Saint Julien This is very fresh on the nose with raspberry, rhubarb, custard hints too, this has an attractive freshness, quite piercing, carries very well into the toasty finish, a very good Branaire. Nice tension here / Gruaud Larose Saint Julien Fresh red fruit nose, open for business, raspberry ripple, very nice flowing silk on the palate. Great rhythm. Dusty tannins in the background. Loose knit but lovely easy claret with elegance. This is very accessible for Gruaud which usually is a bit rugged en primeur, could be one to watch.92-94/ Lagrange Saint Julien Deep plum. This is inkier, again there is good ripeness, and the tannins come through a little quicker but certainly a very good showing / Langoa Barton Saint Julien Rich spicy nose, chocolate, good rich fruit almost sweet, cream toffee concentration, nicely cool fruited and plump on the palate too. Good mineral finish, plenty of tannin but not overly done a good Langoa Barton /

14 Leoville Barton Saint Julien This is intense on the nose, inky, loganberry, fruit cocktail freshness, earthy, again plenty of tension and silky texture balanced with juicy fruit and ripe tannins. Firmer here than most but there is plenty of generosity too. A good Barton / Gloria Saint Julien Very deep colour, intense creamy cassis nose, this is broad and concentrated on the nose, cool and textured fruit here, has good density and ripeness, long and toasty finish this is very good for the chateau and potentially one of the best value wines / Saint Pierre Saint Julien Very deep again, lovely fresh vibrant nose, exotic and rich, impressive, the palate is quite earthy and savoury with lashings of toast and grilled flavours, this is quite extracted will need a decade to soften but a good result / Talbot Saint Julien Promising richness on the nose, lovely silky palate calm and generous, good potential. Oaky ripe tannins. This is always a lighter more charming Saint Julien, it has a little more backbone this year / Leoville Poyferre Saint Julien Very deep colour, this is savoury, meaty, black coffee notes, a serious concentration here, blue fruits underneath, lovely weight and texture, this is sizeable as expected by the colour, it is a racy wine with lots of energy and bags of structure, heavy in the extraction but I think it is still a point, a big and impressive Poyferre / At Chateau Margaux An emotional visit hosted by the late Paul Pontallier s sonthibault Pontallier, an incredibly brave young man, a chip off the old block for sure. Paul s first vintage was 1983, he has been a great ambassador for the region through his unerring devotion to the wines and future of Chateau Margaux. I first met Paul in 1995, he was remarkably charming on that occasion as he was every time I have had the pleasure of meeting since. The quality of the 2015 wines are a fitting tribute to Paul s legacy. Pavillon Rouge - 74% Cabernet Sauvignon 21% Merlot 4% Petit Verdot 1 % Cabernet Franc - 60% New oak Fine clear fruit notes, definite elegance, vivid, focussed fresh fruit, the palate is velvety, the tension is impressive on the finish, lovely soft finesse, dusty tannins, it is all subtlety, very good Pavillon Rouge. There has been a shift to improve the quality of Pavillon, production now half of what it was ten years ago. Chateau are convinced that this is the finest ever produced / Margaux - 8% Cabernet Sauvignon 8% Merlot 3% Petit Verdot 2 % Cabernet Franc - 100% New oak More spice here, deep and mystifying nose, violets, cool fruit, round and seamless, not dense but there is power here, and certainly elegance, epitomizes the vintage with its gentle caress, oak showing a little, lots of chalky tannins, good minerality. The finish is very impressive / Pavillon Blanc 100% Sauvignon Blanc Open lemon and white flowers on the nose, intense, subtle too, the entry is soft, the lacy delicacy here is amazing, very ripe, great tension too, grapefruit on the finish. Really lovely mouthfeel flavour and persistence. Always a rigorous selection here only a third of the harvest making it into the first wine. The

15 aim has been to pick a little earlier to clip the ripeness, reducing the alcohol and elevating the freshness through the acidity. Certainly a fine result again this year. 92/94/ At Chateau Leoville Lascases Potensac - 38% Cabernet Sauvignon 45% Merlot 17% Cabernet Franc - 33% New oak Deep colour, Earthy minty notes, good perfume, lots of freshness, with good spice, nice mineral notes intermingled with oak and a meaty savoury edge on the finish. A good result for Potensac and a good value as always / La Petite Marquise 2 nd wine of Clos du Marquis - 52% Cabernet Sauvignon 48% Merlot - 25% New oak Nice bright purple, rich nose of fresh red fruits with a hint of savoury camembert cheese, lots of freshness on the palate too, generous fruit and tannin, all in good harmony, good future here / Clos du Marquis Saint Julien - 66% Cabernet Sauvignon 31% Merlot 3% Cabernet Franc - 50% New oak The colour is deep, a classic Saint Julien nose, elegant, smoky, again lots of supple tannins, nicely ripe, backing up the fresh fruit, it fits and harmonizes well / Le Petit Lion du Marquis de Las Cases Saint Julien- 40% Cabernet Sauvignon 60% Merlot - 30% New oak Deep colour, getting some smoky notes, lovely texture here, and open, accessible, nicely balanced but just finished quite quickly on the oak / Leoville Lascases Saint Julien 85% Cabernet Sauvignon 6% Merlot 9% Cabernet Franc - 85% New oak Very deep colour, the nose is inky, meaty great Cabernet perfume, minerality, lovely deep blackcurrant fruit, minty earthy, covering the tannins and alcohol with ease, good ripe tannins. Very deep and concentrated, with a remarkable finesse. A fine result and one of the most elegant wines of the vintage, coupling the easy seduction of this vintage with the power of one of the Medoc s finest terroirs /100 At Chateau du Tertre There was less rain during harvesting in Margaux than in the Northern Medoc. One of the most consistent set of Margaux I have tasted at the UGC tastings. These will give great early drinking pleasure. Angludet Margaux Pretty red fruited nose, lovely and bright, soft palate this is very ripe and polished, almost seamless, you can feel the dusty tannin but this will drink early. A promising Angludet / Brane Cantenac Margaux Good deep plum, nice perfumed fruit, raspberry, cassis, this is nicely proportioned, balanced with a firm edge on the finish. Very good / Cantenac Brown Margaux Deep plum. Nice dark berry fruit with a vanilla edge, blueberry muffin, this is equally generous but there is an extra touch of persistence on the toasty finish, excellent result / Dauzac Margaux A bit tighter here with blue highlights, opens up quite nicely, silky palate, good sequence, quite a reinforced Margaux as usual, will shape up, good tension /

16 Desmirail Margaux - 60% Cabernet Sauvignon 35% Merlot 5% Petit Verdot Good deep colour, bright nose, edge of cocoa, nicely complexity on the aromatics, excellent mouthfeel, and cool, nice balanced minty finish. The best Desmirail I have tasted to date /100 Ferriere Margaux - 63% Cabernet Sauvignon 33% Merlot 3% Petit Verdot 1% Cabernet Franc Slightly muted but classy nose, nice creamy edge, this has good fruit on the palate nicely textured, the strictness kicks in quite quickly / Giscours Margaux - 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 25% Merlot 5% Petit Verdot This is a touch deeper as per usual, nice concentration here on the nose, fresher fruit, almost tropical, nice and calm cool fruit here, the tannins drift in late and plentiful. A long quality life ahead / Rauzan Segla Margaux - 63% Cabernet Sauvignon 33% Merlot 3% Petit Verdot 1% Cabernet Franc Good deep colour, delicately perfumed nose, nice and complex, silky texture, really round and refined here, great length this is quite lovely and has an extra but of everything to make it special. A definite buy if the price is reasonable / Rauzan Gassies Margaux This is slightly funky, touch of rubber, lovely silky palate though, calm on the finish very good and composed overall. Promising 89-92/ Malescot Saint Exupery Margaux - 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Merlot Very pure and intense on the nose, redcurrants, the palate is polished and silky. This is impressive in size too, lots of structure here. Long and fine, very good concentration one of the best in the Margaux appellation. Very long / Lascombes Margaux - 50% Cabernet Sauvignon 47% Merlot 3% Petit Verdot Very deep plum, touch of soy, cassis, nice sweet palate, calm silky, this is well built too last, fine finish, excellent job / Labegorce Margaux Nice deep plum. Touch higher toned, red fruits, nice plump palate, this is deft on the balance, good finish too a great result. An affordable wine and a good keeper, we enjoyed 2001 and magnums of 2003 in Bordeaux, both showed well / Marquis de Terme Margaux Full plum, Pleasant ripeness on the nose, this is very soft on the palate, nice and creamy, touch of chocolate on the finish, gentle extraction / Kirwan Margaux Good colour, cherry ice cream on the nose, deep and promising, the palate has good definition, with plenty of texture and mid-palate, this has a bit extra proportion on the finish too, quite solid and persistent. Very good this year / Monbrison Margaux - 55% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc Full plum colour, the nose is quite broad with a minty edge. Usually quite light this has more too it this year with good palate density. Higher Cabernet Franc than most, adding to the solid structure and length. Quite impressive for Monbrison / Prieure Lichine Margaux - 66% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Merlot 4% Petit Verdot Quite a deep colour, clean pure nose, nice richness on the palate really impressive depth here calm and balanced, really like this, always shows well en primeur /

17 At Chateau Palmer With the success of the Margaux appellation and the promise of the Merlot crop, we were anticipating good things from our visit to Chateau Palmer. We were not disappointed. The high proportion and quality of the Merlot combined with naturally low yields has returned a sensational result. Alter Ego Margaux - 42% Cabernet Sauvignon 52% Merlot 6% Petit Verdot Good deep purple, chocolatey, ripe plummy fruit coming through on the nose, plenty of silk here, generous, lovely mouthfeel, depth and texture, it's vibrant, long and impressive for a second wine / Palmer Margaux - 50% Cabernet Sauvignon 44% Merlot 6% Petit Verdot Nicely deep plum, the nose is more closed on the nose, but still revealing complexity, with a underlying richness, soft mints, the texture here is very impressive just sits and unfolds, dense, palate, very ripe tannins, this has mesmerizing and harmonious power and elegance, stands out for a Chateau Palmer and for the vintage, leaves the palate very fresh and alert / At Chateau Malartic Lagraviere We heard promising reports of the quality in Pessac Leognan, less rainfall and slightly earlier ripening here, has returned excellence. The quality here is at the same level as the Right Bank. There were several wines which I thought could turn out to be the best ever made at their respective Chateaux Chantegrive Graves Full plum, intense nose, touch of menthol, plenty of fresh fruit too. The palate is soft with ample fruity texture covering the tannins very well / Rahoul Graves God deep colour. This is nicely honed, good fruit lots of toasty notes, good balance in the finish good length too. This will develop well, very good for the Chateaux / Bouscaut Graves Full plum. Quite open here with a touch of smoky concentration, good palate too with a touch more texture, promising toasty finish, cafe. Quite good / Carbonnieux Pessac Leognan Full bright Purple. Nose is closed, the palate has good density, tightly grained, and more extracted here, finishes well, quite powerful / Carmes de Haut Brion Pessac Leognan Very deep colour almost black, quite a hit on the nose here, lots of tarry cassis and creamy concentration. The palate is very unctuous, holding well, the fruit is undeniable, fine ripeness, lots of spice on the finish, long and impressive. The acidity is a bit lower but the balance fine. The best Carmes Haut Brion tasted to date /

18 Domaine Chevalier Pessac Leognan Lovely deep purple colour. Nicely composed, complex nose, high toned notes, real class and elegance, lovely cool fruit, this is fine, the sweetness on the palate is exciting. The best wines just have extra layers of silky fruit in the mid-palate. This is a very fine Chevalier, I am feeling it is the best I have ever tasted en primeur! 93-96/ De Fieuzal Pessac Leognan Very deep colour here. Lovely nose again, very calm here quite lively black berry fruit. This is layered. Finishes very gently, the structure is there but well covered. This is a knockout best Fieuzal ever / De France Pessac leognan Full dense plum colour. Solid nose of fruity black berries. Sweet fruit on the palate, seductive wine here, good overall mouthfeel toasty finish, great early drinker / Haut Bergey Pessac Leognan Very dark colour. Dark on the nose too, chocolate, beefy. The palate has nice sweetness, calm and creamy, plenty of mid palate, nice grip too. A fine effort.90-92/ Larrivet Haut Brion Pessac Leognan Dark colour. Very deep, lovely intense black-fruited nose, lots of energy on the palate, confiture, very creamy, silky, dusty tannins on the finish, shows very well / La Tour Martillac Pessac Leognan Deep purple. Deep intense nose, perfumed red fruits, plenty substance and depth on the palate. Chewy. Lots of everything here, super balance for this modestly priced chateau. Long dusty finish / Malartic Lagraviere Pessac Leognan Medium full plum, considerable concentration on the nose, soy, perfume. This certainly has the vintage s texture on the palate. The finish is quite sizeable too. Solid extraction. Good balanced finale / Pape Clement Pessac Leognan Very dark colour, very ripe nose, great aromatics more complex than most, very full palate, generous style. This has all the components with a bigger hit on the back of the palate, lots of earthy cedar you notes, tobacco too. Excellent stuff. Could turned into a classic vintage with some more barrel age / At Chateau La Mission Haut Brion Our final visit turned into one of the most memorable with one of the vintage s finest line ups. There was only a smidgen in quality between La Mission and Haut Brion, though the styles are quite different. Quintus was awesome and this was the finest Clarence I can remember. The alcohol levels here are quite high, which is normal in recent years, over 15% at La Mission. Le Dragon de Quintus Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 76% Merlot 23% Cabernet Franc 1% Cabernet Sauvignon Fine colour and nose, rich spicy nose, very sweet fruit, calm, seductive, plenty of freshness, round and early drinking, toasty finish. Very good wine /100,

19 Chapelle de La Mission Pessac Leognan- 30% Merlot 25% Cabernet Franc 45% Cabernet Sauvignon Deep purple, intense broody black fruits, quite sweet aromas, lovely velvety palate, nice refreshing mouthfeel, generous and fruity style, early drinker but this is refined on the finish will keep well too /100, Clarence de Haut Brion Pessac Leognan- 57% Merlot 1% Cabernet Franc 42% Cabernet Sauvignon Very deep plum, this is a little more savoury in the nose than the Chapelle, with rose petal too, classy stuff. The palate is very sexy here, velvety tannins, well covered, this has so much oomph for a second wine, very ripe with delicious tannins, exciting stuff. Lovely toasty finish, possibly the finest Clarence yet /100, Quintus Saint Emilion Grand Cru - 76% Merlot 24% Cabernet Franc Deep purple, the nose shines, very polished, lovely menthol tinged black fruit, beautiful aromatics, and there is intensity as well as opulence here, layered, spicy, quite a stunning palate, rides effortlessly into the finale which is spice inflected and chalky. It is so well balanced won't be long before its showing if it doesn't close down /100, La Mission Haut Brion Pessac Leognan - 58% Merlot 7% Cabernet Franc 35% Cabernet Sauvignon Very deep right to the rim, sweet fruit on the nose, almost toffee chocolate, wonderful aromatics, as expected great texture, full on the palate, creamy, lowish acidity but the balance overall comes through brilliantly on the finish, very long and dusty a triumph here. This comes across a bit more open and extroverted than the Haut Brion, there really is very little between them this year /100, Haut Brion Pessac Leognan - 50% Merlot 8% Cabernet Franc 42% Cabernet Sauvignon Very deep, the nose is refined but very subtle compared to the La Mission, no hint of alchohol even though it is 14.9%! Very fresh on the palate, coating the mouth with dusty tannins as it goes, quite a sizeable block here, but supple too, massive spicy length, goes on and on, Szechuan pepper, zingy, quite brilliant, this will certainly be a candidate for wine of the vintage, and a great Haut Brion /100, Written and illustrated by Will Gardener

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