DISCOVER MONTEREY: WHERE TO TASTE, DINE &STAY ITALY'S VINEYARD MAP MAESTRO RED BURGUNDY 2011: FRESH AND ELEGANT long ISLAND TRAILBLAZERS

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2 U.S. SPARKLING WINES ARE REFRESHING, WELL-PRICED CHOICES FOR WARM WEATHER SIPPING BY TIM FISH A mericans drink a lot of sparkling wine in December, but there's really no better time than summer to break out the bubbly. The season's weddings, anniversaries and graduations are obvious opportunities for popping corks, but sparkling wine refreshes on any warm-weather day, and goes great with lighter menus of salads, grilled seafood and chicken. As Domaine Cameros winemaker Eileen Crane says, "Summer is not as serious. It doesn't seem like Cabemet season." With July Fourth approaching and backyard grilling in full swing from coast to coast, it seems like the:r'ight time to drink domestic sparkling wine, and the latest releases offer excellent quality and value. If you want to impress your friends as they arrive for a gathering this summer, hand them a glass of the Domaine Cameros Brut Cameros 2009 ( points, $28), a gorgeous sparkler offering effortless balance. If you're buying for a big and boisterous cookout, try the Korbel Brut California NV (87, $14), a lively quaff that's worth returning to for a second glass. This year, we have shifted our annual report on U.S. sparklers to the June 15 issue, to better emphasize the warm-weather appeal of bubbly and help you stock the fridge for summer. Since my last report on the category ("Rose's Rising Appeal," Dec. 31, 2012-Jan. 15, 2013 ), editor at large Harvey Steiman and I have blind-tasted about 150 sparkling wines from California, Oregon, New Mexico, Michigan and Virginia. Forty-eight of these, or almost one-third, rated an outstanding points or higher on the Wine Spectator 1 00-point scale. (A free alphabetical list of scores and prices for all wines tasted is available at www. winespectator.com/061514). U.S. sparklers are hard to corral into tidy vintage reports each year-producers release a range of vintages annually and many wines are multiple-vintage blends. Also, the imprint of house style is nearly as important as the vintage. That said, domestic sparkling wines, especially versions from California, continue to reach new heights as growers refine their vineyards and narrow in on the best grape clones for bubbly. JUNE 15, 2014 WINE SPECTATOR 69

3 When it comes to value in California, it's hard to beat Mendocino's bang for the buck. Winemaker Arnaud Weyrich consistently tops the list with the Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley NV (91, $23 ), which is available around the country. His colleague Tex Sawyer has been giving him competition with the more robust but still delightfully racy Scharffenberger Brut Mendocino County Excellence NV (, $20). Although California produces the widest range of sparkling wines and the most consistent scores, quality and value come from other states as well. In Oregon, Argyle scores two 92-point wines that offer solid value at $50 apiece: the Blanc de Blancs Dundee Hills Knudsen Vineyard Julia Lee's Block 2009 and Brut Dundee Hills Knudsen Vineyard Washington's Domaine Ste. Michelle is a reliable house for value, and its Extra Dry Columbia Valley Michelle NV ( 88, $14) is light and refreshing. New Mexico's Gruet Brut American NV (88, $15) has creamy citrus, vanilla and spiced almond flavors, while Michigan delivers the winning L. Mawby Brut Blanc de Blancs Leelanau Peninsula NV(86, $23). Among the top 12 wines in this report, each of California's major sparkling wine houses has earned a spot, which shows just how keen the competition among producers has become. Topping the list is the 2005 vintage of perennial favorite Mumm Napa DVX Napa Valley (94, $65 ), an exceptional sparkler with depth, richness and finesse. Other notable bottlings include the elegant and sleek Schramsberg Brut Napa Valley Cameros Jones Vineyards 2008 (94, $70); the Domaine Chandan Etoile Tete de Cuvee Napa-Sonoma Counties 2003 (, $100), which offers dimension and structure; and the opulent and polished Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvee Cameros 2008 (, $40). The J Brut Russian River Valley Vintage Late Disgorged 2004 (, $) and Iron Horse Brut Green Valley of Russian River Valley LD 2004 (, $) are the latest excellent late-release sparklers from those wineries. From the same vintage, the Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley L'Ermitage 2004 (, $47) offers a hint of maturity, with freshness and focus. In recent years, California wineries have produced two widely divergent styles: slightly sweet and bone-dry. The sweet and highly floral category includes wines such as the Mumm Napa Cuvee M and Gloria Ferrer Vade Vi Ultra Cuvee, both of which are aimed at younger drinkers. The bone-dry sparklers, which get little or no dosage, include the Iron Horse Brut X, Schramsberg Extra Brut and J Cuvee XB. These wines are built for aficionados. "The style is a real hit with what I like to call 'bubble heads,'" says Crane, who produced the impressive Domaine Cameros Brut Cameros Ultra 2008 (, $39), which has razorlike focus and elegance. The ultradry style started in Champagne, Crane says. "The houses have been dropping their sugars over the past 10 years or so. The trend is down toward dry." In the United States, both the slightly sweet and superdry wines are niche bottlings, and often are only sold directly through the winery. Those extreme styles function as bookends to the diversity of bubbly offered by domestic producers, from great values to top-of-the-line tetes de cuvees, from tight and steely versions to ripe and user-friendly bottlings, and from sleek blancs de blancs to festive roses. Whatever the style, sparkling wine is right at home in summertime. You could put off popping corks until November or December, but think about all that wasted sunshine. Senior editor Tim Fish is based in California. 70 WINE SPECTATOR JUNE 15, 2014

4 TASTING REPORT I U.S. SPARKLING WINE STARS OF CALIFORNIA SPARKLING WINE Nine producers with track records for quality Domaine Carneros CARNEROS, NAPA Champagne Taittinger established this California outpost in 1987, and from the beginning winemaker Eileen Crane has set the style. Of all the sparkling houses, it best achieves a delicate balance between California and Champagne, crafting impeccably structured and crisp wines with gentle layers of fresh California fruit. Approximately 95 percent of the fruit used in the wines comes from estate vineyards in Cameros, all of which have been certified by California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). Domaine Chandon NAPA VALLEY The year Moet & Chan don established this winery in Napa Valley's Yountville was a turning point for California sparkling wine. It was 1973, and the move caught the attention of other European sparkling wine producers, who soon followed the lead. Today, winemaker Tom Tiburzi oversees an extensive production of solid value bubblies along with his high-end Etoile and Etoile Tete de Cuvee bottlings. Gloria Ferrer CARNEROS, SONOMA Expressive fruit flavors are the trademark of this winery, founded in 1982 by the Ferrer family, which runs the Spanish sparkling company Freixenet. Harvesting from 33S acres of estate vineyards, winemaker Steven Urberg crafts a range of bubblies, from a value-oriented blanc de noirs to the voluptuous Carneros Cuvee, always preserving that crisp Carneros acidity. Iron Horse RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, SONOMA The Sterling family has been making sparkling wine in the bucolic rolling hills of west Sonoma County since the 1980s, and today their wines are better than ever. Laurence Sterling has been busy replanting the 160- acre estate in recent years, and winemake~ David Munksgard gets extra depth and richness into the winery's wellstructured style. J Vineyards RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, SONOMA Judy Jordan has a passion for sparkling wine. Since she established this winery in 1986, she has been relentless in refining the style and quality of the wines. Today, winemaker Melissa Stackhouse is making bubblies that are reflective of Russian River's distinctive terroir but add new layers and complexity. A prime example is the winery's latedisgorged vintage-dated sparkler, yet the value-priced Cuvee 20 is appealing as well. Korbel RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, SONOMA The Korbel brothers came from Czechoslovakia to west Sonoma County in the mid-1800s to harvest trees for cigar boxes, but when California's lumber industry took a downturn, they transitioned to farming and began to experiment with grapegrowing. Korbel has been making bubbly since 1882, and continues to produce some of the best and most reliable values in California. Owned by the Heck family since 1954, the label's sparkling wines can be found on almost every retail wine shelf in the country. Mumm Napa NAPA VALLEY Of all the French-owned sparkling wine brands, this is the most Californian in style. Other producers focus increasingly on vineyards in cooler regions, but this house of bubbly relies exclusively on Napa Valley fruit. Champagne giant G.H. Mumm opened this winery in 1986, and today winemaker Ludovic Dervin and his team make fullbodied sparklers. The exception is Mumm's top bottling, DVX, which is distinctly French in style, vibrant, minerally and focused. Roederer Estate ANDERSON VALLEY, MENDOCINO Roederer Estate stands apart from the pack. When Champagne house Louis Roederer established the winery, in 1982, it chose remote Anderson Valley, in Mendocino County, for its cool climate and well-drained soils. Stylistically, the house has remained true to the Champagne ideal of elegance, vibrant acidity and rich complexity. From the Roederer Estate non-vintage brut to the always impressive L'Ermitage bottling, winemaker Arnaud Weyrich is a standard-bearer. Schramsberg NAPA VALLEY The Davies clan is the first family of California's modern sparkling wine industry. In 1965,1ong before the rush of new producers began in the 1970s and '80s, Jack and Jamie Davies revitalized the historic Schramsberg property and started making bubbly. Today, their son Hugh Davies and winemaker Keith Hock consistently produce some of the best and most luxurious sparklers in California. WINESPECTATOR.COM BONUS VIDEO: Get an inside look at how to make sparkling wine with Hugh Davies of Schramsberg, the historic Napa estate owned by his family. Watch him at -T.F. JUNE 15, 2014 WINE SPECTATOR 71

5 TASTING REPORT I U.S. SPARKLING WINE Recommended Sparkling Wines From the United States More than 150 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search. TOP WINES TOP WINES (continued) WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE MUMM NAPA DVX Napa Valley $65 MUMM NAPA Brut Rose Napa Valley Reserve NV 92 $38 Exceptional. with depth, richness and finesse. Aromas of lemon. Beautifully floral strawberry and spiced vanilla aromas lead to crisp, ginger and rubber lead to flavors of custard, raspberry and spice. layered raspberry, shortbread biscuit and citrus flavors. SCHRAMSBERG Brut Napa Valley Carneros 94 $70 RICHARD G. PETERSON Brut Rose Napa Valley $175 Jones Vineyards 2008 Bold, with floral strawberry and almond brioche aromas, offering full- Elegant and sleek, with floral pear and almond tart aromas leading to bodied yet balanced citrus, graham cracker and cinnamon flavors. rich yet minerally Meyer lemon, ginger and cream flavors that linger. DOMAINE CARNEROS Brut Carneros 2009 $28 TOP VALUES Shows effortless balance, with floral lemon and brioche aromas and WINE SCORE PRICE creamy raspberry, vanilla and spicy almond flavors. ROEDERER ESTATE Brut Anderson Valley NV 91 $23 DOMAINE CARNEROS Brut Carneros Ultra 2008 $39 Vibrant, with aromas of creamy apple, cinnamon and hazelnut com- This has an elegant edge, showing aromas of lime zest, fresh flowers plemented by layered flavors of lemon custard, mineral and almond. and mineral, with dry flavors of almond, apple and lemongrass. SCHARFFENBERGER Brut Mendocino County Excellence NV $20 DOMAINE CHAN DON Etoile Tete de Cuvee $100 Racy, with tart apple and floral anise aromas leading to zesty lime and Napa-Sonoma Counties 2003 lemon flavors, accented by cinnamon and ginger. Crisp citrus and raspberry aromas mix with hints of rubber and spice, TREVERI Rose Sec Columbia Valley NV leading to layered flavors of yeasty bread, baked apple and ginger. Fresh and sleek, with hints of toast and leather around watermelon $18 GLORIA FERRER Anniversary Cuvee Carneros 2008 $40 and dusky spice flavors, revealing lime accents on the dry finish. Opulent. with floral aromas of fresh ginger, hazelnut and lemon zest, GLORIA FERRER Blanc de Blancs Carneros NV showing flavors of almond brioche, Asian pear and vanilla. Creamy, offering aromas of apple and lime, with a touch of white $22 IRON HORSE Brut Green Valley of Russian River Valley $ chocolate that opens to flavors of Asian pear, cinnamon and spice. LD2004 SCHARFFENBERGER Brut Rose Mendocino County $23 Rich and focused, with toasted hazelnut aromas mixing with apple Excellence NV and citrus notes, layered with flavors of raspberry, orange and ginger. Offers an appealing, racy maturity, with floral raspberry and spicy IRON HORSE Wedding Cuvee Green Valley of $40 baked apple aromas and flavors of cherry, graham cracker and ginger. Russian River Valley 2009 TREVERI Brut Blanc de Blanc Columbia Valley NV $14 Fresh and festive, offering floral raspberry and spicy vanilla aromas Refined, with fine bubbles on a lithe frame, offering hints of lemon and layered strawberry, lemon and hazelnut flavors. Crisp finish. curd and pear compote. Shows restraint and elegance. J Brut Russian River Valley Vintage Late Disgorged 2004 $ Mature yet lively, with aromas of baked pear and fresh ginger leading to cinnamon roll flavors, accented by apple and spiced vanilla. DOMAINE CHAN DON Blanc de Noirs California NV 88 $22 Floral raspberry aromas lead to crisp and appealing citrus, spice and cherry flavors that have a lively finish. ROEDERER ESTATE Brut Anderson Valley L'Ermitage 2004 $47 DOMAINE STE. MICHELLE Extra Dry Columbia Valley 88 $14 Focused and elegant, with floral aromas of red apple and lemon tart Michelle NV matched to opulent flavors of mineral, raspberry and fresh ginger. Light and refreshing, with an effervescence to support the delicately SCHRAMSBERG Brut Napa Valley Carneros $70 sweet lemon and Honeycrisp apple flavors. Tognetti Vineyard 2009 GRUET Brut American NV 88 $15 Rich aromas of cinnamon roll and almond open to complex flavors of Vibrant, with creamy citrus, vanilla and spiced almond flavors. citrus and raspberry, layered with fresh ginger and mineral notes. MUMM NAPA Brut Napa Valley Prestige NV 88 $22 SCHRAMSBERG Rose North Coast J. Schram 2005 $140 Unabashedly California in style, with raspberry and tropical fruit notes. Bold strawberry and shortbread aromas accent rich. complex flavors of melon. spicy lemon zest and fresh ginger. CLARA Brut North Coast NV 87 $18 ARGYLE Blanc de Blancs Dundee Hills Knudsen Vineyard 92 $50 Soft and easygoing, with fresh apple and cream aromas and flavors. Julia Lee's Block 2009 DOMAINE STE. MICHELLE Brut Columbia Valley Michelle NV 87 $14 Bright and refreshing, with lemon curd, pineapple and gentle spice Crisp, fresh and vibrant, showing pretty pear and spice flavors. flavors wound around a lively core of green apple and creme fraiche. KORBEL Brut California NV 87 $14 ARGYLE Brut Dundee Hills Knudsen Vineyard $50 Offers citrus and raspberry fruit, with spice and cinnamon accents. Expressive. with an open texture allowing the pear. toast and clove flavors to come through cleanly. Tautly structured and lingering. KORBEL Brut Rose California NV 87 $14 A fun quaff, with strawberry and spiced nut aromas. DOMAINE CARNEROS Brut Rose Carneros Le Reve $110 Elegant, with fragrant aromas of rose petal and raspberry, showing PIPER SONOMA Brut Sonoma County Select Cuvee NV 87 $18 sleekly focused red apple, graham cracker and spice flavors. Easygoing, with flavors of raspberry, cinnamon apple and almond. JUNE 15, 2014 WINE SPECTATOR 73

6 New Releases: California McPrlce Myers Grenache Santa Barbara County L' Ange Rouge 2011 $42 Dark berry, pepper, cedar, dried herb and bell pepper notes are tight, firm and dense, adding up to a lively, intense and persistent mix. The tannins give the flavors traction. Drink now through cases made.-].l. 88 PETER FRANUS Owner & Winemaker 92 Bedrock Zinfandel Russian River Valley Sodini Vineyard 2012 $38 This shows personality and focus, with briary raspberry and red clay aromas leading to zesty, well-balanced cherry, toasted sage and white pepper flavors, lingering toward ripe, minerally tannins. Drink now through cases made.-t.f. 91 Bedrock Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Old Vine 2012 $24 Expressive aromas of licorice, dark chocolate and plum ',lead to youthful, zesty flavors of blueberry, olive and cracked pepper. Finishes with appealingly briary tannins. Drink how through ,300 cases made.-t. F JC Cellars Smoke & Mirrors California 2012 $25 Refreshingly quirky, this offers ripe cherry and spicy nut bread aromas, leading to zesty dried blackberry, cracked pepper and licorice flavors that linger toward ripe tannins. Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre. Drink now through ,257 cases made.-t.f. Balocchl Del Maggio Fair Play 2011 $24 Offers smoke, spice, dark berry and melted black licorice notes, keeping a tight focus, with graceful tannins that give the flavors traction but let them flow through. Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through cases made.-].l. The Prisoner Napa Valley 2012 $40 Ripe, jammy and sweet, this is loaded with toasty oak. Subtle this is not, loaded with flavor, offering notes of black cherry, chocolate, licorice and cinnamon spice. Should appeal to fans of the style. Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Charbono. Drink now through ,240 cases made.-t.f. Balocchi Sprezzatura Fair Play 2010 $39 Intense, vibrant and pleasantly rustic around the edges, given structure by the rannins. The flavors are well-defined, ending with a dash of mint, bay leaf and herb. Syrah and Tempranillo. Drink now through cases made.-].l. Casey Flat Ranch Estate Red Wine Capay Valley 2010 $35 Engagingly complex, with a mix of black licorice, crushed rock, loamy earth, cedar, tobacco and graphite notes, all folding together and ending with a long, full finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Mourvedre. Drink now through ,116 cases made.-].l. Chase Cellars Zinfandel St. Helena Hayne Vineyard 2010 $45 A brooding Zin, with blackberry and grilled sweet anise aromas that lead to dense wild berry, smoky pepper and tar flavors. The tannins are big but ripe. Hands off fornow. Best from 2016 through cases made.-t.f. Marlmar Estate Syrah-Tempranillo Russian River Valley Don Miguel Vineyard 2010 $45 There's lots to admire in this red, with complex aromas Q[smoke, leather, black licorice and blackberry. Tightens and turns tannic before turning back toward a more refined character. Drink now through cases made.-j.l. McPrice Myers Beautiful Earth Paso Robles 2011 $42 The initial push of cedary oak, complex, licorice-laced dark berry and pepper notes is both big and graceful, with the flavors gaining traction and depth from the tannins. Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. Drink now through cases made.-].l. 120 Oregon Peterfranus NapaValley 2008 $50 A rich, seductive style, offering layers of creamy oak, mocha, dark berry, cedar and ripe, fleshy tannins. Underneath the showy flavors is a dense core that lingers gracefully and gains depth. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Drink now through cases made.-].l. I WINE SPECTATOR JUNE 15, 2014 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Martha's Vineyard 2009 $225 Shows notable herb, mint and bay leaf overtones, with a tight, dense core of dried currant and berry that is slow to open. This is very shut down for now, and should age for a long time. The flavors build on the finish. Drink now through ,319 cases made.-].l. 88 Kunde Estate Zinfandel Sonoma Valley 2011 $22 A jammy, easygoing Zin, offering aromas of berry cobbler and fresh herb that lead to soft flavors of raspberry and cinnamon. Drink now through ,000 cases made.-t.f. 87 Barrel 27 Syrah Central Coast Right Hand Man 2011 $18 This features a tight mix of savory dried herb, sassafras, dark berry, licorice and cedary oak notes, with good guts and chewy tannins. Drink now. 2, 748 cases made.-}.l. 87 Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Paso Robles 2012 $20 An easy-to-approach style, with much to admire, this offers ripe plum, dark berry and floral notes. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Counoise. Drink now. 6,500 cases made.-].l. 86 Provenance Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2011 $45 Tough-edged, with a mix of cedar, dried herb and dill notes, bolstered by hints of dried dark berry, smoke and charcoal on the finish. While woodsy and cedary, this offers appealing flavors that are a bit easier to approach. Drink now through ,500 cases made.-].l. CALIFORNIA Gloria Ferrer Brut Carneros Cuvee Late Disgorged 2003 $70 Offers floral lemon and spice aromas that give way to elegantly layered Asian pear, cinnamon and yeasty blanched almond flavors. Drink now. 1,500 cases made.-t.f. Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc Bennett Valley 2012 $32 A vivid pineapple juice accent lends some extra intensity to the lemon, apple and grapefruit notes, very crisp and refreshing. Reveals a touch of lemon verbena on the finish. Drink now.-m. W Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County 2012 $21 A floral expression, with honeysuckle and apple blossom notes and a crisp, juicy core of lemon, apple and pink grapefruit flavors. Ends with a refreshing finish of Meyer lemon juice. Drink now.-m. W. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs Carneros NV $22 Rich, creamy and a pleasure to sip, offering aromas of apple and lime, with a touch of white chocolate that opens to luscious flavors of Asian pear, cinnamon and spice. Drink now. 4,194 cases made.-t.f. Iron Horse Summer's Cuvee Green Valley of Russian River Valley 2010 $58 A fresh and festive bubbly, offering zesty raspberry and tropical fruit notes, adding a touch of spicy sweetness to the crisp flavors. Drink now. 250 cases made.-t.f. 88 Domalne Chandon Blanc de Noirs California NV $22 Floral raspberry aromas lead to crisp and appealing citrus, spice and cherry flavors, with a lively finish. Drink now. 69,000 cases made.-t.f. 87 Piper Sonoma Brut Sonoma County Select Cuvee NV $18 An easygoing bubbly, with flavors of raspberry, cinnamon apple and blanched almond. Drink now. 85,000 cases made.-t.f. OREGON Other White & Sparkling Pinot Noir 94 Eminent Domalne Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge 2012 $40 Ripe, round and expressive, not weighty but intense and complex, layering dark berry and plum fruit with wax and mineral nuances. Finishes with a hint of root beer, showing power and finesse. Drink now through cases made.-h.s. 94 Maison L'Envoye Pinot Noir Willamette Valley The Attache 2012 $40 See Highly Recommended, page 95. J Brut Russian River Valley Vintage Late Disgorged 2004 $ Rich and mature, yet fresh and lively. The aromas of yeasty baked pear and fresh ginger lead to layered, creamy cinnamon roll flavors, accented by notes of apple and spiced vanilla. Drink now through cases made.-t.f. Schramsberg Brut Napa Valley Carneros Tognetti Vineyard 2009 $70 Rich aromas of yeasty cinnamon roll and almond open to complex flavors of citrus and raspberry, layered with fresh ginger and mineral hints. Finishes with a bold, vibrant burst of acidity. Drink now through cases made.-t.f. 92 Mumm Napa DVX Napa Valley 2006 $60 This shows finesse and focus, offering lemon and yeasty brioche aromas that lead to deep, vibrant flavors of blanched almond, fresh ginger and floral raspberry. Offers a dry, minerally finish. Drink now through ,500 cases made.- T. F. 92 Schramsberg Brut Rose North Coast 2010 $43 A gorgeous rose, luxurious and crisply focused, with aromas of floral raspberry and yeasty cinnamon roll leading to rich but vibrant flavors of orange zest, mineral and spice. Drink now. 7,058 cases made.-t.f. 91 J Brut Russian River Valley Vintage 2007 $48 Sleek, complex and well-focused, balancing crisp pear and citrus fruit with layers of brioche, fresh ginger and toasty almond. Drink now through cases made.-t.f. Domaine Chandon Etoile Tete de Cuvee Sonoma-Napa Counties 2004 $75 Lush and richly styled, with ripe apple and cinnamon roll aromas and plush flavors of almond, raspberry and spice. Drink now. 1,036 cases made.-t.f. Chapter 24 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012 $ This ripe red dances deftly over refined tannins to deliver currant and blackberry fruit in spades, glinting with hot stone and meat notes as the finish lingers. Drink now through cases made.-h.s. Purple Hands Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Barron Wahl Vineyard 2012 $35 Bright and expressive, weaving toasty, spicy accents into brilliant raspberry and mulberry flavors, picking up a guava note as the finish persists with intensity. Drink now through cases made.-h.s. CODY WRIGHT Owner &Wlnemaker Purple Hands Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Holstein Vineyard 2012 $35 Taut in structure, this is focused and expansive in flavor, brimming with currant and blackberry fruit festooned with floral and mineral grace notes, lingering expressively and intensely. Drink now through cases made.-h.s. Purple Hands Pi not Noir Dundee Hills Stoller Vineyard 2012 $35 Vibrant and focused, this is chewy with tannins, bursting with blackberry, currant, floral and clove flavors that just don't quit as the finish persists gracefully. Drink now through cases made.-h.s.