WELCOME TO. Where viniculture meets academia!

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1 WELCOME TO Five winemakers and winery proprietors have traveled from their vineyards and cellars in the far-flung valleys and hilltops of Italy to share the nuances, character, and yes even the secrets of their diverse realms. To bring their discussions to life, they ve prepared class materials spanning six regions and various categories: sparkling, still, fortifed, red, white and rosé, conventional, sustainable, and organically farmed. Each of these expressions speaks to a sense of place that will bring us to Italy through virtual travel, and each also represents the life s work of the winemakers and families behind them. To prepare you for the semi-rigorous class load that awaits, we ve compiled a set of study notes guaranteed to get you to the head of the class or at least make you the teacher s pet! Where viniculture meets academia! For more information, visit cruartisancollege.com. LOCATIONS AND DATES Denver: July 15 ~ Napa: July 17 ~ Austin: July 19 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EC) REGULATION NO. 1308/13

2 LAMBRUSCO The Lambrusco district, known as Terre dei Lambruschi (Land of the Lambruscos), is located in the central part of Emilia-Romagna. This is the historic home of Lambrusco the semi-sparkling red wine so characteristic of Emilia. The vineyards lie mostly on the fertile flat plains around the cities of Reggio Emilia and Modena, but there are also vines to the south in the less fertile foothills of the Northern Apennines. HOMEROOM Morning Love, Lambrusco Syle We ll break the ice and the rules with the ultimate breakfast wine, offering a fun and friendly introduction to our day of scholarly pursuit. Coffee and tea will also be served for those needing additional stimuli. THE GRAPES: Lambrusco represents one of the most ancient families of native grapes in Italy. The three principal Lambrusco varieties are: Lambrusco di Sorbara: The most well-known variety of Lambrusco, it s been traditionally grown around the hamlet of Sorbara in Modena Province. It produces the lightest version of Lambrusco in terms of color, body, alcohol, and structure, and is considered to be the benchmark style. Lambrusco Salamino: The most widelyplanted of the Lambrusco varieties, it s traditionally cultivated around the hamlet of Santa Croce in the Modena Province. The name references the shape of the grape clusters, which look like small salami. It is often described as crafting a Lambrusco that stylistically falls in between Lambrusco di Sorbara and Lambrusco Grasparossa. Lambrusco Grasparossa: This is the second-most widely-planted variety of Lambrusco. Unlike Lambrusco Salamino and Lambrusco di Sorbara, which are primarily planted on the plains, Lambrusco Grasparossa is mainly grown on the hills around the village of Castelvetro to the south of Modena. It produces fleshier, fuller-bodied, and more tannic Lambrusco wines. 2 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide

3 The Wines The vast majority of Lambrusco is produced in the frizzante (semi-sparkling) style via the tank method, known as the metodo Martinotti in Italy. Only a small proportion is made by the traditional method or ancestral method (metodo ancestrale). The historically-important metodo ancestrale, in particular, is generally reserved for the finest-quality bottlings, which yield wines with additional layers of complexity and savory balsamic and mineral notes. ALBINEA CANALI OTTOCENTONERO GRAPE VARIETIES: 50% Lambrusco Salamino, 40% Lambrusco Grasparossa 10% Lancellotta Emilia-Romagna The pressing of the grapes is followed by a maceration at low temperatures (12 15 degrees Celsius) for 3 4 days in order to extract the color and enhance the typical fruit-forward characters of Lambrusco. After racking, the juice completes its fermentation in pressurized temperaturecontrolled vats to develop its natural sparkle. ALBINEA CANALI FB LAMBRUSCO GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara Emilia-Romagna Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes are grown in deep- and mediummixture terrain in vineyards located in Emilia-Romagna, Italy. Grapes are cultivated in the GDC (Geneva Double Curtain) or Doppia Cortina method. After pressing, the grapes undergo cold maceration for 12 hours to extract some color and enhance the flavors of the Sorbara grapes. Following partial fermentation, the wine undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle, rendering the wine completely dry and leaving a deposit of natural yeast inside. ALBINEA CANALI PENNAROSSA GRAPE VARIETIES: Lambrusco Grasparossa, Malbo Gentile Emilia-Romagna The plains and lower hillsides of the communes of Scandiano and Canossa in the province of Reggio Emilia. NOTES: Pennarossa is called Codarossa in the European Union market. The Cru Artisan College Study Guide 3

4 NEW HEIGHTS An Introspective On The Alta Langa DOCG,Ialy s Newest Sparkling Appelation Winemaker Alberto Lazzarino, President of Piedmont s Guild of Winemakers, will explore the details and evolution of this region s bright, new sparkling star. ALTA LANGA DOCG Piedmont s production of sparkling wine dates back to the 19th century when Carlo Gancia introduced the traditional method to the region in the 1850s after learning the process in Champagne. Despite this early foray into bottle-fermented sparkling wine, most of Piedmont s sparkling wine production focused on wines made from Moscato Bianco via the tank method during the 19th and 20th centuries. It wasn t until the early 1990s that a group of Piedmontese producers launched the Spumante Metodo Classico in Piemonte project, which aimed to produce high-quality bottle-fermented sparkling wines based on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In 2002, a specific DOC for metodo classico (traditional method) sparkling wines was created: Alta Langa. These bottlings increasingly made gains in stature and recognition, prompting the appellation to be quickly promoted to DOCG in Tom Stevenson, considered one of the world s leading authorities on Champagne and sparkling wines, has included the Alta Langa DOCG among the world s most promising and exciting sparkling wine appellations. THE AREA OF PRODUCTION: Alta Langa DOCG lies in the southern part of Piedmont. It covers almost all of the Langhe region in the provinces of Cuneo and Asti and extends eastward into the province of Alessandria. The vineyards are planted exclusively on hills and must be at a minimum altitude of 820 feet above sea level. The region s soils are moderately fertile and rich in marl, limestone, and clay. The Wines These bottle-fermented sparkling wines are produced in white and rosé styles. They must always be vintage dated and are required to spend a minimum of 30 months on the lees. There is also a riserva version that must spend at least 36 months on the lees. These complex wines combine intensity of fruit with a lingering autolytic character. CUVÉE AURORA ROSÉ GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Pinot Noir Piedmont, Alta Langa DOCG The wine is produced from grapes grown in the hilltop vineyards of the Alta Langa area, located south of Alba in Piedmont, in a mixture of clay and calcareous soil. THE GRAPES: The wines must be crafted from a minimum of 90% Pinot Noir and/or Chardonnay, with Pinot Noir (known as Pinot Nero in Italy) usually playing the dominant role. The grapes must be hand-picked. One hour of skin contact and cold maceration prepares the grapes for soft crushing. The must is clarified and fermented at a controlled temperature of 17 degrees Celsius. The final cuvée consists of 90% clear wine and 10% of the previous vintage wine aged in French oak barriques. Fermentation takes place in the bottle (classical method), while yeast contact is extended for at least 24 months followed by traditional hand-riddling (remuage) on pupitres and dégorgement à la glace. A period of bottle-aging follows. 4 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide

5 Colline Teramane Montepulciano d Abruzzo is Abruzzo s only DOCG. Previously a sub-zone of the Montepulciano d Abruzzo DOC, it was elevated to independent DOCG status in THE AREA OF PRODUCTION: Located on the border of Marche, the appellation lies in the northern part of Abruzzo within the province of Teramo. The winegrowing area extends from the Adriatic Coast to the foothills of the Gran Sasso Massif and the Monti della Laga. The vineyards are planted on gentle hills atop claybased soils of marine and alluvial origin. The area benefits from the interplay between the Mediterranean influence of the Adriatic Sea to the east and the cooler air masses of the mountain peaks to the west. As a result, diurnal temperature swings are significant and constant breezes blow throughout the region. These ideal conditions yield healthy, fully-ripe grapes while allowing for acid retention and the development of aromatic complexity. The vines are traditionally trained using the Pergola Abruzzese system, but modern vertical training systems have become increasingly more common. THE GRAPE: Montepulciano is one of Italy s most widely-planted varieties. It is considered native to Abruzzo and the majority of Italy s plantings are found here. Because Montepulciano is late-ripening, it requires a long growing season. As a productive variety with thick, resistant skin, Montepulciano produces wines that vary in style from fruit-forward and easy-drinking to more structured, fleshy, and full-bodied. Montepulciano is also widely used for the production of full-bodied rosé, including those produced in the Cerasuolo d Abruzzo DOC. CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN A Focus On Abuzzo s Colline Teramane DOCG Enrico Cerulli will explain how the soil and climate around the hills of Teramo make it the most prized area for Montepulciano d Abruzzo. COLLINE TERAMANE MONTEPULCIANO D ABRUZZO DOCG Colline Teramane Montepulciano d Abruzzo DOCG must contain at least 90% Montepulciano. Although up to 10% Sangiovese is also allowed, most producers craft wines that are 100% Montepulciano. The wines must be aged for at least one year before release. The riserva must be aged for at least three years, including one year in wood. Producers use small oak barrels and/or larger botti in the cellars. Deep in color with aromas of ripe red and dark fruit, spices, tobacco, leather, and dark chocolate, the wines are fullbodied, robust, concentrated, and high in alcohol with dense, ripe tannins. CERULLI SPINOZZI TORRE MIGLORI GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Montepulciano Abruzzo, Colline Teramane Montepulciano d'abruzzo DOCG In the heart of the Abruzzo region, the nutrient-rich soil consists of compact layers of shale. The Wines Carefully-selected grapes are hand-harvested in small boxes. The juice is fermented on the skins for a period of days and aged in oak for at least 16 months. Maturation in the bottle follows for an additional six months. The Cru Artisan College Study Guide 5

6 Montalcino is a small, medieval hill town in the southeastern part of Toscana. Historical evidence of this area as a quality winegrowing district has been documented since the 16th century. At that time, the most prominent wines produced were sweet whites made from Moscato (known locally as Moscadello), but red wines gradually acquired more importance during the 17th century. The first mention of the name Brunello in conjunction with red wine appeared during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Phylloxera and two World Wars kept wine production in Montalcino at a bare minimum, and just a handful of estates continued to produce Brunello during these difficult times. Things began to shift in the late 1950s as more producers gradually reappeared, and wine production began to slowly increase. Brunello di Montalcino was one of the first Italian wines to receive DOC status in 1966, as well as one of the first to receive a DOCG designation, which occurred in BUILDERS OF BRUNELLO A Winemaker s Perspective From The Ground Up Celebrating 40 years since the founding of Castello Banfi in Montalcino, Cellar Master Gabriele Pazzaglia will outline the results of four decades of research into Sangiovese clones and the ideal soils for Brunello di Montalcino. BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO The name Brunello means little dark one in reference to its color. For a long time, Brunello was considered a variety separate from Sangiovese, but DNA analysis has shown Brunello is, in fact, Sangiovese. THE AREA OF PRODUCTION: Montalcino lies 25 miles south of Siena. The winegrowing zone corresponds exactly with the town s municipal area and almost forms a 9-mile-wide square. The territory can be described as a corrugated upland where a series of uneven hills, slopes, and ridges rise to form roughly four irregular slopes; these slopes depart from the borders of the square and converge toward the central part of the appellation close to the town. The altitude varies from a base elevation of 390 feet above sea level up to more than 1,900 feet. The soils of Montalcino are the result of different geologic eras as well as the repeated retreats and returns of an ancient sea. Both factors explain the particularly complex and diverse nature of these soils. The lower-altitude sites possess younger soils: typically, marine deposits consisting of clay and sand. Areas at higher altitudes possess older, poorer, and shallower soils with high proportions of gravel and stones. They are characterized by the presence of galestro (crumbly schist-like rock) and alberese (fine-grained calcareous marl). With a climate that s mostly Mediterranean, the area benefits from western marine air currents. However, due to Montalcino s inland position and its proximity to the Apennine mountain range, there are some continental influences. Its location, coupled with elevation, create significant diurnal temperature swings. The frequent winds and breezes help to mitigate humidity and reduce the risk of fungal disease. Overall, the climate is mild and dry with an average annual rainfall of 27 inches concentrated in spring and late autumn. The lack of summer rainfall promotes a beneficial vegetative slowdown that allows the vines to focus on the ripening process. THE GRAPE: Sangiovese is Italy s most widely-planted grape and Toscana s principal grape variety. It s a difficult grape to cultivate and demands extra care in the vineyard, as it buds early but is late-ripening. Because it s a vigorous vine, it performs best on poor, well-drained soils that keep vegetative growth in check. Sangiovese is drought- and wind-resistant and benefits from a long, warm growing season, yet it does not like excessive heat and prefers substantial diurnal temperature swings. Sangiovese is extremely site-sensitive, behaving differently with even a slight change in growing conditions. Wines made from Sangiovese are high in acidity and have significant tannic grip with aromas and flavors of violets, sour cherry, plum, and tea leaves. 6 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide

7 The Wines One of the distinguishing characteristics of Brunello di Montalcino, which must be produced from 100% Sangiovese, is its long aging requirements. They re the longest in Italy: As required by law, the wines must be aged for a minimum of four years, including at least two years in oak. The riserva must be aged for a minimum of five years, with at least two years in oak. Regarding the Montalcino appellation as a whole, the combination of poor soils, warm dry summers, and constant air movement allows for ripe, healthy Sangiovese grapes. This growing environment explains why wines from Montalcino have historically been made from 100% Sangiovese; in fact, it s often said that Sangiovese does not perform as well anywhere else in the world. Only here can the grape achieve an unequalled combination of finesse, depth, power, and complexity. As a result, these wines are some of Italy s most complex and ageworthy. CASTELLO BANFI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Sangiovese Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Estate vineyards on the southern hills of Montalcino feature stony, calcareous, and well-structured soil at an altitude of 720 feet above sea level. A meticulous grape selection is followed by vinification with skin contact for days. Released in the fifth year after harvest, the wine is aged for a minimum of four years, including two years in oak barrels of various sizes mainly French oak barriques and partly in Slavonian oak casks VINTAGE NOTES: The climactic conditions are almost perfect. Light spring showers and a warm and sunny summer followed by a dry autumn allows for an ideal harvest.. CASTELLO BANFI POGGIO ALLE MURA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Sangiovese Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG A cru of select vineyards surround the medieval Castello Banfi, historically known as Poggio alle Mura (the walled hilltop), in the southern part of Montalcino. Grapes are fermented in stainless steel with traditional maceration before they age for a minimum of four years, including at least 24 months in oak (90% in French barriques and 10% in Slavonian casks) and 24 months of bottle-aging before release. CASTELLO BANFI POGGIO ALLE MURA RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Sangiovese Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Dedicated vineyards sloping down from the historic Poggio alle Mura Castle crown the estate, which is particularly suited to growing Sangiovese. The vineyard, planted in 1992, is the result of more than a decade of research in which optimal clone selection produces consistently-outstanding Brunello di Montalcino. CASTELLO BANFI S BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO SINGLE VINEYARD SELECTIONS: Mandrielle Vineyard Sangiovese Poggioni Vineyard Sangiovese Tavernelle Vineyard Sangiovese The Cru Artisan College Study Guide 7

8 A PASSION FOR APPASSIMENTO A Sartorial Approach to Classic Veronese Technique Leading Veronese producers of Amarone and Ripasso wines will share their knowledge of and passion for the unique appassimento winemaking technique a farmers secret for centuries dating back to ancient Roman times. VALPOLICELLA The Valpolicella district can be divided into three subzones: Valpolicella Classica, the historic heartland of Valpolicella in the west; Valpantena, located in the middle; and Valpolicella Orientale in the east. As official subzones, Valpolicella Classica and Valpantena can appear on labels. THE GRAPES: According to the DOCG disciplinare, Valpolicella must be produced from the following grapes: Corvina: Considered the superior grape of Valpolicella, it can represent 45 95% of the blend and provides much of the cherry flavor so typical of wines crafted here. Corvinone: Corvinone can replace Corvina in the blend up to a maximum of 50%. Rondinella: This minor blending partner can represent 5 30% of the blend. All three primary grapes are very suitable for air-drying. Additionally, up to 25% of the blend can be complemented by approved auxiliary grapes, with the most common varieties being Molinara, Oseleta, Negrara Veronese, Dindarella, Croatina, and Rossignola. The name Valpolicella has uncertain origins. The most common theory suggests that the name is a mix of Latin and Greek, Vallispolis cellae, meaning the valley of the many cellars. THE AREA OF PRODUCTION: The wines produced in Valpolicella, a historic winegrowing district in Veneto, have been highly prized since Roman times. The area is located north of Verona and at the foothills of the Monti Lessini, with the Adige River forming its western border. To the east, Valpolicella abuts the Soave appellation. The name Amarone comes from the Italian word amaro (meaning bitter ), as the wine is dry/bitter compared to its alter ego, the sweet Recioto. Its creation was accidental: A vat of fermenting dried grapes accidentally metabolized all of the sugar in the must, resulting in a Recioto wine without sweetness. Topographically, the area is composed of a fan-shaped band of hills and valleys; situated in north-south orientation, they radiate out like fingers from the foothills of Monti Lessini. Generally speaking, hills of low and medium elevation possess sandy-gravelly-clay soils (glacial moraine and alluvial deposits) while hills of higher elevation are limestone/marl-based (decomposed dolomite limestone and clay). The hills surrounding the village of Marano are of volcanic origin, and the decomposed basalt found here is locally referred to as toari. The climate is mild thanks to nearby Lake Garda, which moderates temperatures, and the Monti Lessini, which blocks cold northern winds. The cool air descending from the Monti Lessini at night also helps preserve the grapes acidity. Many of the vineyards are on south-facing, terraced hills, with the terraces often supported by stone walls referred to as marogne. Elevations can reach up to 1,600 feet above sea level. Vines are traditionally trained with the pergola system, but modern vine training systems have also been adopted. 8 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide

9 THE APPASSIMENTO PROCESS: Appassimento is the production technique used to craft two of the most distinctive styles of Valpolicella: Amarone and Recioto. The process of air-drying grapes, appassimento has been practiced in this area at least since Roman times and the process has remained largely unchanged. Whole bunches of healthy and fully-ripe grapes are selected at harvest and are subsequently placed on traditional arele or graticci racks made of wood and bamboo; wooden or plastic crates are also now commonly used. The grape bunches then rest in a single layer to ensure good air circulation and prevent any crushing or bruising of the fruit. The racks or crates are then placed in fruttai protected, wellventilated lofts on the hillsides and left to dry for at least three to four months. During this period, the grapes lose at least half of their weight in water as they desiccate. The air-drying process concentrates sugars and extract, with the grapes kept under constant control as the bunches are turned regularly to avoid rot. Depending on the intended wine style, some producers allow for the slight development of noble rot (muffa nobile). Once the grapes have reached the desired level of desiccation and concentration, they re vinified. Successful appassimento is possible thanks to the ideal combination of temperature and low humidity found in Valpolicella during autumn. Nowadays, several producers also adopt modern temperature- and humidity-controlled rooms equipped with fans that carry out the drying process more efficiently. THE APPELLATIONS AND WINES OF VALPOLICELLA The four appellations in the Valpolicella district all share the same winegrowing zone, grape varieties, and blending rules: Recioto is an ancient, sweet red wine made from air-dried grapes. Before the advent of drier wine styles, Recioto was considered the most-prized wine of Valpolicella. Recioto wines are deep ruby in color, medium to high in alcohol, and high in extract; they also possess a rich, velvety mouthfeel and boast intense aromas of maraschino cherries, dried fruit, and chocolate. The sweetness is balanced by acidity. Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG: Amarone, essentially a dry Recioto, is considered the most prestigious wine produced in Valpolicella. By law, Amarone must be aged for a minimum of two years, while the riserva version must be aged for a minimum of four. A powerful and full-bodied wine, Amarone is intensely flavored with high extract and round, velvety tannins. The array of aromas is varied: maraschino cherry, dried fruit, tobacco, licorice, dark chocolate, rum, tar, leather, and spices. Alcohol levels can easily reach 15 16% ABV. Amarone also benefits from bottle-aging, developing great tertiary and ethereal complexity. Valpolicella DOC: The Valpolicella DOC represents the lightest Valpolicella wine style. A typical Valpolicella should be refreshing and fruity with fragrant aromas of sour cherry coupled with a slightly-bitter almond finish. These wines are light in body, moderate in alcohol, and low in tannins, but producers now also make more complex and weightier styles within the superiore category. Made from selected grapes, these wines exhibit more structure and concentration, as well as a higher alcohol content and more aging potential. Wines made under the superiore designation must be aged for at least one year. CSARTORI DI VERONA FERDI GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Garganega Veneto, Bianco Veronese IGT The hillside vineyards of the Soave zone east of Verona feature rocky, calcareous soil. Select hand-picked grapes are dried for 40 days to reduce water and concentrate sugar content and color. After pressing, the grapes undergo a short skin maceration at a low temperature. Part of the must is fermented in oak casks, with the remainder instead going in stainless steel. The wine then matures on its lees for six to seven months for added mouthfeel, flavor, and intensity. A minimum of four months of bottle refinement follows. Valpolicella Ripasso DOC: Ripasso, a traditional winemaking technique for Valpolicella, entails pouring freshly-made Valpolicella wine through the vinacce (pomace) of Amarone and/or Recioto and leaving the wine to macerate on the skins for one to two weeks. This initiates a short refermentation of the wine and results in a heavier structure, fuller body/higher alcohol, more tannin, and higher overall complexity than basic Valpolicella. Valpolicella Ripasso must be aged for a minimum of one year. There is also a superiore version with a higher minimum alcohol content. Ripasso is stylistically considered to fall between the lighter, quaffable Valpolicella and the more powerful Amarone. The Cru Artisan College Study Guide 9

10 MORE WINES OF VALPOLICELLA SARTORI DI VERONA VALPOLICELLA GRAPE VARIETIES: 45% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina Veneto, Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC The Valpolicella Classico area north of Verona has calcareous soil with fine layers of limestone. The grapes undergo soft pressing with skin maceration for eight to ten days. After pressing, 10% of the must is extracted to obtain better color and tannin. After racking and malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged partially in stainless steel and oak for 15 months, followed by four months of bottle refinement before release. SARTORI DI VERONA L APPASSIONE GRAPE VARIETIES: 50% Corvina, 25% Corvinone, 20% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon Veneto, Rosso Delle Venezie IGT The vineyards are located in the hilly area northeast of the province of Verona. The grapes are carefully harvested in the vineyard and placed in small boxes for partial drying until early November. The fermentation on the lees is long before the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. It s matured in oak barrels for several months prior to bottle refinement. SARTORI DI VERONA REGOLO RIPASSO GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Corvina REGION:/ Veneto, Rosso Veronese IGT Vineyards in the hilly area of Valpolicella have clay-based and calcareous soil. Select grapes are gently pressed before they undergo skin maceration at low temperatures for eight to ten days. In February, the wine rests on Amarone pomace, which enhances the wine s aromatics and aging potential. After malolactic fermentation, the wine ages for approximately months in medium to large oak casks followed by a minimum of four months bottle refinement before release. 10 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide

11 SARTORI DI VERONA AMARONE GRAPE VARIETIES: 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon Veneto, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG The hilly area of Valpolicella, north of Verona, features clay-based and calcareous soil. Select hand-picked grapes are carefully air-dried on wooden racks for 100 days. Traditional pressing and fermentation are followed by a minimum of three years in Slavonian oak casks. SARTORI DI VERONA CORTE BRÀ AMARONE GRAPE VARIETIES: 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella, 5% Oseleta Veneto, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG The Corte Brà vineyard in the northern hills of Verona consists of clay-based and calcareous soil. The grapes are carefully selected, placed in small crates, and airdried for three to four months. At optimal dryness, only the best grapes are hand-selected and fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel for about 30 days. The wine is transferred to traditional tanks for malolactic fermentation and aged in oak casks of various sizes for about four years. At least six months of bottle aging follows. I SALTARI AMARONE GRAPE VARIETIES: 1 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 10% Croatina, 10% Corvinone Veneto, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG In the Mezzane Valley in the Valpolicella zone of the Veneto, Italy, the grapes are grown on terraced hillside vineyards in calcareous, alkaline soil. Grapes are carefully selected before they re transferred to drying lofts for roughly three months. The grapes will lose 30% of their weight in the drying process, which concentrates the essential compounds. Vinification takes place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks for days of maceration and fermentation. Once the wine has been racked off its gross lees, it s transferred to barrels to undergo malolactic fermentation. Over 25 months, the wine goes through regular rackings and topping up of the barrels until blending. The Cru Artisan College Study Guide 11

12 NOT YOUR NONNA S MARSALA Sicily s Sweet Complexity Sicily s historic Florio winery, which contains the world s largest reserve of aged Marsala, reveals the gems of its cellars and demonstrates the history, contemporary context, and bright future of Marsala. MARSALA During the 19th century, the fortified wines of Marsala were among the world s most admired. The wine takes its name from the coastal town of Marsala on Sicily s western tip. In the early 1770s, John Woodhouse, a British merchant, was sailing off the west coast of Sicily when a storm forced him to seek safe harbor at the port of Marsala. While there, Woodhouse tasted a local wine that reminded him of Madeira. Known as vino perpetuo (or perpetuum), this intense and complex wine was produced by local farmers who adopted a process similar to the solera system of Jerez, Spain. Woodhouse believed this wine could be refined, fortified, and exported to England, so he settled in Marsala and established a winery. Throughout the 19th century, the reputation of Marsala continued to grow: In 1805, Thomas Jefferson tried Marsala for the first time and described it as an excellent wine, and well worthy of being laid in stocks to acquire age. Marsala s success soon attracted the interest of other British merchants, and in the early 1830s, they were joined by the Sicilian entrepreneur Florio, who soon became one of the largest producers of Marsala. In 1931, the Italian government officially delimited the Marsala winegrowing area, and in 1969 the Marsala DOC was established to join some of the first official Italian DOCs. Throughout the 20th century, however, Marsala experienced the general decline affecting all fortified wines as consumer preferences shifted toward dry table wines. In an effort to hold onto market share, producers diversified by producing flavored Marsala. It soon became a popular cooking ingredient and was gradually relegated to the kitchen. This deviation from the traditional product seriously damaged the reputation of Marsala with lingering consequences that are still evident today. The best examples of quality Marsala remain largely unfamiliar to most consumers. Nonetheless, a few skilled producers, notably Florio, continue to prove that high-quality Marsala can stand among the world s greatest fortified wines. THE AREA OF PRODUCTION: The DOC area covers almost the entire province of Trapani and roughly corresponds to the entire western corner of Sicilia. The vineyards lie on flat coastal areas and on low-elevation inland hills, while the climate is fully Mediterranean with warm to hot, dry summers and mild winters. Traditionally, vines are trained using the alberello (bush vine) training system. THE GRAPES: By law, Marsala must be produced from four grapes: Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia, and the less common Damaschino. Considered the most important Marsala grape from a quality standpoint, Grillo enhances texture and aroma while developing high sugar levels. As a rule, the best versions of Marsala are based on Grillo. 12 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide

13 The THE Wines WINES Classic Marsala is essentially a fortified wine produced from white grapes. There are three main types of Marsala: Marsala Vergine, Marsala Superiore, and Marsala Fine. Marsala can be further classified based on color (oro for golden, ambra for amber, and rubino for ruby) and residual sugar. For residual sugar, the levels are: secco (dry, less than 4%), semisecco (semi-dry, 4 10%) and dolce (sweet, more than 10%). Marsala Vergine: Marsala Vergine must spend a minimum of five years in wood and have less than 4% residual sugar, as well as a final alcohol content of at least 18% ABV. If the wine has matured in wood barrels for at least ten years, it may be labeled as riserva. Marsala Vergine accounts for a very tiny portion of production and is considered the closest in style to the ancient vino perpetuo. Intense and complex, the wines have a dry, rich, savory, and smooth palate with a long finish. Marsala Superiore: Marsala Superiore must be matured in wood barrels for at least two years and have a minimum final alcohol content of 18% ABV. It can be released as riserva after four years of wood maturation. These wines are soft and velvety with complex aromas of dried fruit and nuts with balsamic nuances. Marsala Superiore is a versatile product that can be consumed either as an apéritif, dessert wine, or meditation wine; it can also be paired with medium-aged cheeses. Marsal Fine: The simplest style of Marsala, Marsala Fine must be matured for a minimum of one year and have at least 17.5% ABV. Although it s also produced to serve as an apéritif or as an after-dinner libation, the majority is sold to the food industry. CANTINE FLORIO TARGA RISERVA 1840 GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Grillo Sicily, Marsala Superiore Riserva Semisecco DOC On this coastal strip of the towns of Marsala, Petrosino, and other inland areas of the province of Trapani, the terre rossa soils are low in fertility and rich in silica. Extraordinarily-ripe grapes with a high sugar content are harvested by hand. Fermentation takes place at controlled temperatures and the resulting wine is blended with fortified must, cooked must, and wine-brandy. It s matured at least seven years in oak barrels. The Cru Artisan College Study Guide 13

14 BITTER END The Fomulation of Fernet Florio The only thing Italians love more than a good meal is settling the stomach afterward with a digestive bitter: a harmonious masterpiece of herbs and spices. Amaro, Italian for bitter, is an Italian herbal liqueur commonly drunk as an after-dinner digestif. It usually has a bitter-sweet flavor with an alcohol content between 9 40% ABV, and is so seriously considered in Italian culture to be an aid in digestion that the U.S. government permitted its distribution for pharmacies, hospitals, and nursing homes during Prohibition. Similar liqueurs have traditionally been produced throughout Europe. There are traditional local varieties in Germany, Hungary, Netherlands, France, and in South America as well, but the term amaro is generally applied only to Italian products. Amaro is typically produced by macerating herbs, roots, flowers, bark, and/or citrus peels in alcohol either neutral spirits or wine then mixing the filtrate with sugar syrup and allowing it to age in casks or bottles. Dozens of varieties are commercially produced, with many commercial bottlers tracing their recipe or production to the 19th century or before. These recipes often originated in monasteries as a method of pre- serving precious medicinal herbs. Amaro is typically consumed neat, often with a citrus wedge, and can also be served on ice, with tonic water, or as an ingredient in cocktails. Amaro is flavored with several herbs and roots, and while many producers closely guard their exact recipe, they typically include gentian, angelica, cardoon, cinchona (china), lemon balm (melissa), lemon verbena (cedrina), juniper, anise, fennel, zedoary, ginger, mint, thyme, sage, bay laurel, citrus peels, licorice, cinnamon, menthol, cardamom, saffron, rue (ruta), wormwood (assenzio), and elderflowers (sambuco). The category is generally produced in three styles: medium, with a balance between bitter, sweet, and citrus tastes; fernet, which is more sharply bitter than other amari; and light, which usually has more citrus notes. There are also amari flavored with alpine herbs, sometimes with a smoky taste, that are typically lower in alcohol content, as well as amari made with artichoke, truffles, quinine, rhubarb, or honey. 14 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide

15 Aloe Marseille Nice Genoa Split Florio Fernet is born in Sicily in the heart of the area known as the Sun Belt. Dubrovnik Mint Corsica Rome Cardamom Sardinia Istanbul Rhubarb Cinnamon Algiers Tunis Cantine Florio Winery M e d i Sicily t e r r a n e a n S e a Athens Crete Chamomile Saffron Tripoli Benghazi Fennel miles FERNET FLORIO REGION: Sicily Fernet Florio is crafted from a number of herbs and spices, including aloe, cardamom, myrrh, cinnamon, saffron, and mint. Spices are infused with water and alcohol and macerated for two weeks to achieve aromatic harmony. After maceration, the redolent infusion is blended before aging for several weeks to form the perfect union. The Cru Artisan College Study Guide 15

16 ROBERTO MAGNISI Quality Control Director, Florio As a chemistry graduate of the University of Messina, Roberto Magnisi s master s thesis, Study of the Polyphenolic Components of Sicilian Wine Through High Performance Liquid Chromatography/Mass Spectrometry (HPLC/MS) combined his two passions: wine and chemistry. In 2003 he began his career in wine with the historic Florio Marsala winery, and since then the team there has become his second family. In 2009 he was appointed Director of Research and Development for the Duca di Salaparuta Group (which encompases Florio, Corvo and Duca di Salaparuta). At Florio, Magnisi has been entrusted to establish a state of the art microbiological-chemical laboratory to support the winemak-ing team s professional know-how. LARS LEICHT MEET THE FACULTY National Director, Cru Artisan Wines, Banfi As the ultimate Banfi resource, Lars Leicht serves as Founder and Dean and most importantly, translator of the Cru Artisan College. Leicht s background in political science and journalism eventually led him to become Director of Communications for Banfi Vintners after starting as a sales representative for Banfi in New York more than 30 years ago. Leicht is not only an expert on Banfi and Italian wine and food, but wine industry market trends in general. ALBERTO LAZZARINO Directing Winemaker, Banfi Piemonte Alberto Lazzarino has served as the Principal Winemaker at Banfi Piemonte since 2002 and is a graduate of the prestigious Agricultural University of Alba, one of Italy s and the world s leading enology schools. Lazzarino is also president of the Piedmont Region of Italy's Association of Winemakers and Enologists, where he also serves as the organization s national advisor. ENRICO CERULLI Family Proprietor, Cerulli Spinozzi With family roots in Abruzzi dating back generations, Enrico Cerulli s passion lies in focusing on super-quality wines from the Colline Teramane subregion, Abruzzi s only DOCG. In particular, Cerulli strives to make exceptional wine from the Montepulciano grape, using 100% DOCG fruit. Cerulli was recently elected President of the Colline Teramane Consorzio. GABRIELE PAZZAGLIA Cellarmaster, Castello Banfi Armed with a degree in winemaking specializing in viticulture, Montalcino native Gabriele Pazzaglia started at Banfi as a Technical Cellar Assistant in He also served as an analyst while continuing his studies at the University of Florence, where he specialized in agriculture (he also spent time at the French Institute for Enological Research in Montpellier). Upon completing his doctorate in enology in 2004, he became an assistant and, shortly thereafter, Cellar Master. With oak as one of his priorities, he oversees the estate seasoning of the wood staves and the crafting of the winery s custom barrels. Pazzaglia also manages Banfi s Horizon vinification winery, as well as winemaking for ASKA. MAURIZIO BROGGI Creator, Italian Wine Scholar Program, Wine Scholar Guild Originally a sommelier and wine consultant for various cosorzi in Italy, Maurizio Broggi also worked as a wine ambassador in Hong Kong. During this time, he earned the Diploma in Wine and Spirits (with Merit) from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust. He was also awarded the Decanter scholarship as the top Advanced Level graduate in Asia. His other wine credentials include recognition as a French Wine Scholar with Highest Honors, Certified Specialist of Wine from the Society of Wine Educators, and Certified Sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers. ANDREA SARTORI Family Proprietor, Sartori di Verona Andrea Sartori, the great-grandson of Pietro Sartori, is the Gounder of Sartori di Verona now one of the Veneto s leading wine producers. The former President of Italy's producer trade group, the Unione Italinia Vini, Sartori currently serves as President of the Valpolicella Consorzio as well as the Consorzio Italia del Vino. 16 The Cru Artisan College Study Guide