J.J. BUCKLEY F INE W INES Champagne Report

Transcription

1 J.J. BUCKLEY F INE W INES 2010 Champagne Report web: j jbu ckl ey.co m phone: win es ( ) ema il: info@j jbu ckl ey. com jjbu ck leywin es 7305 edgew ater d riv e, sui te d o akl and, ca

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS Top Picks 3 Introduction 4 Language of Champagne 5-15 Wineries 5 Regions & Vineyards 6 Premier & Grand Cru 6 Winemakers 7 Winemaking 8 Grapes 9 Wine Styles 10 Vintage 11 Glassware & Serving 12 Aging 13 Corks 13 Reading the Label 14 Bottle Size 15 Grandes Marques Bollinger 17 Charles Heidsieck 18 Deutz 19 G.H. Mumm 20 Heidsieck Monopole 21 Krug 22 Laurent-Perrier 23 Louis Roederer 24 Moët & Chandon 25 Nicolas Feuillatte 26 Piper-Heidsieck 27 Pol Roger 28 Pommery 29 Salon 30 Taittinger 31 Mini-Marques Alfred Gratien 33 Delamotte 34 Drappier 35 Gosset 36 Philipponnat 37 Vranken 38 Growers Agrapart 40 Dosnon+Lepage 41 Gardet 42 Gaston Chiquet 43 Pierre Gimonnet 44 Pierre Péters 45 René Geoffroy 46 Vilmart 47 About This Report 48 2

3 TOP CHAMPAGNE PICKS The Best Of Lists Top Five Non-Vintage Alfred Gratien "Brut Classique" NV Gosset "Grande Reserve" NV Laurent Perrier "Brut L-P" NV Pommery "Brut Royal" NV Piper-Heidsieck NV Top Five Blanc de Blancs Drappier "Signature" NV Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d'aÿ 2000 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 1999 Salon 1997 Taittinger "Comtes de Champagne" 1998 Top Five Rosès Drappier NV Gardet 2000 Gratien "Cuvee Paradis" NV Laurent Perrier "Cuvee Rosé" NV Taittinger "Comtes de Champagne" 2004 Top Five Vintage Releases Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d'aÿ 2000 Louis Roederer "Cristal" 2002 Moet & Chandon "Dom Pérignon" 2002 Perrier-Jouët "Flower Bottle" 2002 Piper-Heidsieck "Rare" 1999 Top Five Unusual Bubblies G.H. Mumm "Cramant de Chardonnay" NV Laurent-Perrier "Ultra Brut" NV Pierre Gimonnet Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs "Oenophile" 2004 Piper-Heidsieck "Cuvee Sublime" NV Piper-Heidsieck "Rosé Sauvage" NV Best Light & Delicate Agrapart "Mineral" 2004 Laurent-Perrier "Brut L-P" NV G.H. Mumm "Cremant de Chardonnay" NV Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2004 Taittinger "Comtes de Champagne" 1998 Best Round & Fruity Dosnan + Lepage "Brut Recolte" NV Drappier Blanc de Blancs "Signature" NV Piper Heidsieck Brut NV Piper Heidsieck "Rose Sauvage" NV Pommery Brut Royal NV Best Rich & Toasty Alfred Gratien "Brut Classique" NV Bollinger Brut "Special Cuvee" NV Charles Heidsieck "Brut Reserve" NV Krug "Grande Cuvee" NV Vilmart "Grand Cellier d'or"

4 CHAMPAGNE: A CELEBRATION OF STYLE by Chuck Hayward Nothing stands as a symbol of celebration more than Champagne. Fashionable in Europe for centuries, it assumed its place at the best tables in America around the time of the Civil War. Even back then, Champagne was a global product and its popularity and perception as a luxury item led many countries to make their own versions of sparkling wine. But the real stuff has always been the most sought-after interpretation. Today, Champagne, both the region and the drink, finds itself at a crossroads. It has never been more in demand, as the taste for the best wines has spread from Europe and the Americas, to the Far East and other countries. Top cuvées like Cristal and Dom Perignon sell briskly and have established themselves as "must have" wines. At the same time, the global financial crisis has taken the wind out of the sails at the bottom end of the market. Reports of falling exports and distress sales by many Champagne houses continue to make the news. The Champagne industry is becoming increasingly dominated by multinational corporations that own a number of brands in an effort to develop a portfolio of luxury products. Their financial clout and marketing power have allowed these brands to populate shelves and wine lists globally. At the other end of the spectrum, grower Champagnes are carving out small niches in the market, popular among those who eschew the corporate mentality of the big houses. These come from small producers who offer personalized winemaking styles and expressions of each property's unique terroir. This has not gone unnoticed by the larger Champagne producers, who are working feverishly to improve their products, especially their top of the line tête-decuvées. In terms of quality and diversity, it s a great time to be drinking the real deal. The future of Champagne, however, is cloudy. Because many consumers only pop the corks during holidays and celebrations, the region needs to change how people view Champagne as a whole rather than wasting energy on protecting use of the name. More clarity about how Champagne is made, along with promotion of the region's rich history, would also help. Showing the diverse styles of Champagne and its adaptability at the table would go a long way toward increasing sales across the board. And as they say, a rising tide lifts all boats Champagne is also suffering from growing pains. The region, which has diligently protected its reputation by limiting the number of acres certified to grow grapes, cannot expand production without authorizing higher yields from existing vineyards. Each year, the CIVC (Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne) authorizes the yields that will be allowed for the harvest, and in this way they can protect the prices paid to growers by raising or lowering figures as demand fluctuates. As wine consumption increases globally, there will be upward pressure on prices and an inability to adjust to market demands by increasing production without expanding the boundaries of the Champagne AOC. Hence, for the first time in decades, there are now discussions about increasing the number of acres in the Champagne region. Crus from various villages are under consideration for this expansion and a few marginal sites will lose the right to grow grapes that can be designated for Champagne production. The debate is heated, and there are concerns that the sites under consideration are only marginally suited for growing superior grapes. This expansion will not occur before 2020 at the earliest, if it happens at all. But one thing for certain demand for bona fide Champagne will continue unabated until then and beyond. In this report, we hope to provide information which will allow emerging fans to know where to launch their exploration of Champagne, and enable current Champagne aficionados to delve a little deeper. Cheers! Chuck Hayward 4

5 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE A brief introduction Champagne is one of the most difficult wine producing regions to understand and one might expect that, given that there are 75,000 acres worked by 15,000 growers funneling their fruit into over 20,000 different labels. At the same time, Champagne is one of t he most identifiable wine styles, with the price of ubiquitous brands like Veuve Clicquot as well known to consumers as the price of diesel is to truckers. Yet with so many wine styles, a dizzying number of brands, as well as myths and old notions that persist even today, learning about Champagne can confound the most determined wine enthusiast. The following pages contain a bit of information that will help you understand this bubbly subject. Wineries Over the past 100 years, many Champagne houses have become household names via combination of quality, quantity, and the power of advertising. Yet there are still shelves and wine lists filled with obscure estates and enigmatic labels. To help you get your bearings, I ve placed the houses reviewed in this report into three categories: The Grandes Marques: Most of Champagne s production comes from one of these wineries. Typically with a history dating back to Champagne s heyday in the mid-1800s, today these properties produce a wide range of styles aimed at different price points. Most grandes marques cuvées are blends fashioned from purchased grapes and wines since they do not own enough land to supply their entire production. The Mini-Marques: This is a group of properties and labels owned by larger Champagne houses that are more specialized in what they produce than the grandes marques, yet their production is significantly less. They may also own enough vineyards to take care of a significant proportion of their needs. The Grower-Champagnes: This category actually comprises the most number of labels although a very small proportion of the total amount of Champagne produced. Only 3% of the total Champagne imported into the United States comes from this segment of the market. Grower- Champagnes are gaining popularity, as consumers search for site driven wines made by passionate growerwinemakers. As a hedge, many growers will sell a portion of their fruit to the bigger houses, retaining selected parcels for their own production. 5

6 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE The dirt Regions & Vineyards Champagne's tradition of blending different lots to comprise a final cuvée reflects the nature of a region where thousands of small plots of land, farmed by many families, necessitates that most wineries make a wine that is the sum of these individual parts. This has allowed the grandes marques to select and blend grapes from differing vineyards to make a consistent style of wine. Smaller properties must work with the fruit from vineyards they own and in such cases create wines that are more reflective of their unique site as well as the conditions of the vintage. Understanding the basic fruit sources available to the Champagne producer, whether they be big or small, goes a long way to understanding the style you are likely to encounter. There are five grape growing regions that provide Champagne wineries with the bulk of the grapes allowed to be grown: Montagne de Reims: Predominantly planted to pinot noir, the villages facing north/north-east have more spine and tension and tend to offer more aromatics. A fuller-bodied expression of pinot noir comes from crus with south/ southeast exposures with many prized for their richness of their flavors. Côtes des Blancs: Full of white, chalky soils, the vineyards from here are largely dedicated to the production of chardonnay with finer and leaner expressions coming from the northern crus. As you progress south, the fruit gets riper and the chardonnay gains more body. Vallée de la Marne: Located east of the Champagne towns of Epernay and Reims, there are few grand cru sites to be found here. A large chunk of pinot meunier comes from here. The Côte des Bar: The southernmost growing region allowed to grow grapes for Champagne, the Cote's warmer temperatures permit the fruit here to attain higher levels of sugar at harvest. Wines from here will be weightier and more textured than the more renowned vineyards up north. Côte de Sézanne: Another southern area for growing grapes, chardonnay is the dominant variety and achieves richer texture thanks to the warmer temperatures. Premier Cru & Grand Cru Vineyards You will also sometimes see "premier cru" and "grand cru" designations on a Champagne label. In the early 20th century, the vineyards of each village were ranked on a scale of 80 to 100 in an attempt to normalize pricing for the many growers selling their grapes to the large firms. Since then, the grower-producer consortium sets a price for a kilogram of grapes each year and those villages with vineyards ranked 100% receive the full set price. Growers in lesser ranked villages stand to receive a percentage of the price equivalent to their ranking. There are currently 17 villages ranked at 100% and thusly designated as grand cru villages. Premier cru sites are ranked between 90-99% and any wine so labeled cannot contain fruit from vineyards ranked below 90%. The grand cru and premier cru designations are not as much of a quality indicator as that which exists in Bordeaux or Burgundy. Each village in Champagne consists of many different crus with different soils and exposures as a village might have in Burgundy. However, all the vineyards within each village receive the designated ranking and there is no allowance made for plots of higher or lesser quality within the village. Similarly, wines made from a grand cru village may vary widely in style and quality; there is no official tasting of wines from these areas to ensure that each grand cru Champagne measures up to a pre-determined standard of quality. By practice, the tete-de-cuvées of the grandes marques are almost always comprised of grapes from 100% ranked or grand cru villages, although from time to time, premier cru sites may be used. In addition, given that premier crus sites can range in ranking from 90 to 99%, few wines are designated as premier cru on the label. 6

7 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE The unknown artists Winemakers In the past, you rarely heard about the winemakers behind the Champagne. This was partially due to the corporate nature of many large Champagne houses where the power of the brand and integrity of the house style came first, with winemakers being interchangeable and somewhat secondary. In addition, because the house style was so important, the winemakers were simply there, working behind the scenes to put the pieces together. Today, things are different. For one, the rise of the "grower- Champagne" category has changed the nature of the story being told to the market. At most of these properties, the grower and winemaker are one and the same. Getting to know the winemaker becomes more important because it is their decisions that affect the style of bubbly they produce. Accordingly, the larger Champagne houses now realize that quality must not remain static, and it is up to the winemakers to improve their product in an effort to remain both relevant and competitive. In the future you will undoubtedly start reading more about the winemakers behind the brands. That's to be expected, of course, from the smaller estates. But it is the larger grandes marques, with the power of public relations dollars behind them, combined with the never-ending need for journalists to come up with a new story, where we will begin to see the rise of the star Champagne winemaker. Thus far, Champagne winemakers that enjoy a bit of international recognition have stayed tremendously loyal to their employers. As such, t here is little industry gossip surrounding leadership changes in the winemaking teams that work in Champagne. But given the recent history of other winemaking regions, you might expect winemakers like Richard Geoffroy of Dom Pérignon, probably Champagne's first superstar winemaker, to create some buzz should he ever decide to make a move. It s just a matter of time. 7

8 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE The practice Winemaking With the increasing diversity and availability of Champagnes in the market, understanding the winemaking techniques behind a bottle of Champagne is becoming increasingly important as they will provide some indication of the style you can expect. Accordingly, both trade and consumers are asking more questions about winemaking practices. Hundreds of years ago, Champagne was made much like other wines necessitating the use of wood and later concrete to ferment and age the base wine. As technology progressed, there was an increasing use of stainless steel to process fermentations in a controlled manner. These wines were fresher and crisper, with less toasty and oxidized flavors than those fermented and aged in oak barrels. Today's winemakers have a wider choice in making their blends. Houses like Bollinger and Krug maintain long held traditions with the use of oak (usually older, neutral vessels) in fermentation and aging to give their wines a more robust character. Because of this, they use more pinot noir in their Champagnes, which is able to withstand oak aging. Other properties looking to preserve the minerality, elegance and freshness from the more delicate chardonnay grape might avoid the use of oak altogether. Often however, a blend of the two is preferred, in order to create a more complex wine. Another decision that winemakers are faced with is whether to put their base wines through malolactic fermentation. Again, particularly with smaller houses that rely on chardonnay as a major component, the decision to use this process can change the nature of the final blend. Wines that do not go through malolactic fermentation, or malo, will be more taut on the palate, preserving the grape's minerality. On the other hand, if you want to add a creamy texture by lowering the acid profile on the palate, malolactic fermentations can be of assistance. The final and most important decision made by Champagne winemakers is the composition of the dosage, also known as the liqueur d'expedition. This blend of sugar with wine or grape must can be manipulated to achieve a certain style of wine. The amount of sugar in the dosage will also determine whether the final wine is labeled brut, extra dry, ultra brut, demi-sec, etc. In recent years, Champagnes have become drier, with tête-de cuvée and small estate blends using less sugar in the dosage. These are just a few of the questions that are increasingly being asked by our customers at JJ Buckley. My hope is that by helping you become aware of the choices faced by winemakers, you will understand the style of Champagne you prefer. 8

9 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE What s in my bubbly? Grapes Champagne can be made from nine grapes as proscribed by law. Chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir form the foundation for most cuvées. However, grapes like pinot blanc, arbanne, petit meslier, pinot gris, pinot de juillet and pinot rosé are also allowed, although these varieties make up only 0.2% of the vines in the region. Most non-vintage cuvees contain the three mainstay grapes and the proportions vary considerably from house to house. Vintage and tête-de-cuvée blends are predominantly chardonnay and pinot noir combinations with percentages varying according to each estate's preferred style. Chardonnay and pinot noir are the most important grapes in the production of Champagne, comprising the majority of the grandes cuvées and vintage releases. These grapes complement each other quite well with pinot noir providing body and structure, while chardonnay adds lightness and finesse. By altering the blend in either direction, the winemaker can construct a blend that suits the style of the house or his personal preference. While chardonnay is grown throughout Champagne, the grape achieves its best expression on the east facing slopes of the Côtes des Blancs, the hills that lie directly southeast of Epernay. Each of the villages sprinkled along the Côtes have slight variations in soils and exposure, creating subtle differences in the base wine. The larger houses will blend wines from different crus to create layers of complexity and nuance in the final cuvée while many smaller grower- Champagnes are limited to the grapes sourced from their individual plots. Pinot noir is grown predominantly in the northern Montagne de Reims that separates Epernay from Reims. Vineyards facing south along the Marne River are prized for their power and structure while eastern and northern exposures provide a leaner, mineral-laced style of pinot. The pinot noir component adds structure and body to the final cuvée and is also a vital component in rosé Champagnes, where it contributes color and fruity flavors to the finished wine. Pinot meunier is largely grown in the Vallée de la Marne located directly west of Epernay and Reims. Although technically a "black grape" due to the dark color of its skin, the wine is more neutral in flavor as compared to pinot noir. Winemakers often see meunier as a bridge between the chardonnay and pinot noir, linking the finesse and power of the two grapes. Rarely bottled by itself and frequently absent from vintage or other prestige cuvées, the house of Krug is one of the region's few champions of the grape. 9

10 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE From dry to sweet, and in-between Wine Styles Almost everyone gets an education in wine styles when ordering their first bottle of Champagne. Ubiquitous dry styles labeled Brut and Blanc de Blancs are familiar to almost everyone. Below are some other styles you will encounter: Extra Dry Champagnes Extra Dry designations are increasingly a thing of the past. Partly due to confusion among consumers, these slightly sweeter styles are being renamed by Champagne houses without this term on the label (examples include Moët & Chandon Nectar and Pol Roger Riche ). Ironically, this has created even more confusion for the consumer since without any designation to indicate the level of sweetness, one has to rely strictly on knowing these wines by their brand name or hope that your retail clerk or server is familiar with the product. Blanc de Noirs Champagnes These are much less common in Champagne than California, but there are a few, mostly from small growerproducers who have identified small plots of pinot that they feel merit special attention. It may also surprise Champagne enthusiasts that two of the most expensive cuvées in the market are blanc de noirs. Bollinger s prephylloxera Vieille Vignes Françaises and Krug s Clos d Ambonnay are 100% pinot noir, commanding prices in the thousands of dollars upon release. Rosé Champagnes In a world where pink table wines are often treated with derision, rosé Champagnes have an aura of romance and heightened luxury. Made in limited quantities, they usually command a higher price than a standard cuvée, thus adding to their mystique. Rosés are made in two ways. The most common is to add a small percentage of still red pinot noir to the base wine prior to cellar aging. The percentages vary according to house preference, with more color and softer flavors coming from higher percentages. An addition of about 5-10% is generally the norm, although there are experimental wines with higher percentages. Still pinot noir for rosé is usually sourced from villages along the southern hills of the Montagne de Reims, where the warmer sites allow for riper grapes at harvest. Most comes from the crus around the village of Bouzy and surrounds. The second method is called saignée, where the pinot noir portion of the Champagne blend is macerated on its skins prior to fermentation. The resulting wine gains a deeper color, extracting flavor components from the skins and seeds. Rosés made in this manner are generally deeper in color, with rich, viscous fruit textures as compared to the more delicate footprint left by the traditional rosé method. It should be noted that making a rosé using the saignée method is more difficult and challenging, especially in poor vintages where there is a reduction in intensity of both color and flavor of the pinot noir grapes. Thus, vintage variation among saignée rosés is more likely, whereas those made in the traditional method benefit from more consistency and are less labor-intensive. Dessert Champagnes Sweet Champagnes are often an overlooked segment of the market. It was not that long ago that most of the Champagne produced was sweet, but as the British taste for drier styles became the global fashion, demi-sec and sec styles were relegated to the shadows. Today, many of the grandes marques continue to make thes e wines, but they are often difficult to find or not exported. Made by adding a higher percentage of sugar to the dosage, some of the slightly sweet styles are a perfect match for` spicy dishes while very sweet champagne can be a perfect dessert on their own. 10

11 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE What s in a year? Vintage The Champagne industry has not made the question of vintage an easy issue to address. Most Champagnes that we drink are designated by the term "nonvintage" or NV which is actually very inaccurate. The more correct description is "multi-vintage" as the finished wine is usually a blend of differing years. Nevertheless, each year s harvest provides Champagne houses with a quantity of wine that will comprise the base of the final cuvée. Older reserve wines are added at the discretion of the winemaker and may comprise 5-40% of the finished product. The concept behind blending vintages for non-vintage wines is to create consistency year in and year out. But because so much of the final cuvée is based upon the fruit from a particular year, there will be variations even in NV wines, depending on the success or failure of the harvest. Warmer years like 2003 will contribute more fruit and weight to the final blend where a more sinewy wine that results from a colder harvest might need more reserve wines for added body and texture. Because grower-champagnes have smaller production levels, their basic cuvées often depend on the fruit from one harvest. For vintage wines and prestige cuvées, the year on the label is an indication of that house's assessment as to the quality of the harvest. Much like port houses, each winery in effect "declares" a vintage to be of sufficiently high quality as to warrant a special bottling. However, there are no government regulations involved in this declaration other than the requirement that wines from other years are forbidden in a vintage Champagne. Today we are seeing more wine critics focusing their efforts on the Champagne segment and along with that comes critical assessment of vintage quality. Most will agree that 1996 was one of the best recent vintages and 2006 are looking good, but 2005 and 2007, not so much. If the warming trend we are seeing continues, Champagne can expect to see a succession of good vintages in the future. 11

12 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE Getting the best from your bottle Glassware & Serving Because Champagne is fizzy, the glass you use will have an effect on the effervescence. But no matter what shape you choose, the most important factor is that the glass is clean. Soap or water residue can have a negative impact on the ability of a sparkling wine to release bubbles and the wine could appear flat. While drying with a clean towel is effective, hand washing and air drying seems best for active bubbling. The shape of a glass is also important. The old fashioned coupe that was popular for drinking sparkling wine for most of the 20th century (reference recent episodes of Mad Men), provided a large surface area which allowed the latent bubbles to be released quickly. Most agree that the flute is the best vessel, however there is a movement afoot among some industry professionals towards tasting Champagne from more traditional wine glass shapes such as those used for still wines. In tasting wines for this report, I found that Riedel s Vitis and Vinum Extreme glasses to be superior for capturing the aromas and flavors of Champagne. It should also be noted that finer Champagne flutes will have some scoring or etching on the interior base, which helps the bubbles to form and rise. Finally, how you pour your Champagne has been the subject of a recent study. Scientists conducted tests which showed that by pouring slowly into a tilted glass, the bubbles are retained much longer than by pouring Champagne from directly above the glass. Temperature Serving a Champagne too cold will constrain the flavors while shutting down the bouquet, while serving too warm can make the wine seem flabby and less refreshing. If you prefer a moderately cold Champagne, always keep your eye on the ice bucket and don t be afraid to take the bottle out to let it warm up a touch. Decanting Decanting sparkling wine is a bit controversial, but is sometimes recommended for heavier or richer styles. However you will run the risk of losing effervescence, which is an essential part of enjoying sparkling wine. If you wish to experience Champagne more as a still wine, decanting can reveal flavors that would otherwise remain hidden in the absence of aeration. 12

13 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE Big bang or gentle sigh? Corks Corks are still the preferred closure for Champagnes when they are disgorged and released into the market. They are wired into bottles to retain the CO 2 in the wine, which is under about five atmospheres of pressure. Besides the risk of cork taint, over time corks can lose their seal which is necessary to maintain pressure, effervescence and freshness. By checking the cork after opening, you can get a rough idea on when the wine was disgorged. As you can see in the picture below, the cork on the left is thick and has almost expanded back to its original size. This is a good sign that the bottle was recent- ly disgorged and will be fresh and youthful. The stem on the right cork is narrow and has not expanded at all after the bottle was opened. This is a likely indication that the wine was disgorged some time ago or that the wine could have seen some warm temperatures. There's a good chance that this wine will have less effervescence and could also be oxidized if some air has seeped through the cork. There is, unfortunately, no way to tell from looking at the cork to tell if it is tainted with TCA. Yet the use of alternative closures such as crown seals seems a long way off. Aging Champagne Champagne is best drunk fresh when the fruit flavors are vibrant and the effervescence is active. Depending on personal taste, however, you might prefer an aged Champagne. As the wine ages, Champagne colors deepen from lighter straw to more golden hues. Effervescence also disappears with age and the beading may be subtle or nonexistent. Accordingly, the wine may resemble a still wine more than the bubbly we are accustomed to. Pronounced aromas of yeast and mushroom become more evident over time while the primary fruit scents fade away. Champagne also ages in the short term and paying attention to disgorgement dates can be of help in understanding what you are tasting. After the dead yeast cells are expelled from the bottle, a dosage of sugar and wine is added, and the wine is then sent down the line to receive its cork and cap. Traditionally, most Champagne rests for six to twelve months after disgorgement in order to allow the dosage and Champagne to marry. In some cases, a recently disgorged Champagne can seem disjointed, with aromas of fresh brandy spirit dominating the bouquet. In such cases, some additional short term aging can be beneficial to allow the wine to become more integrated and harmonious. 13

14 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE Reading a Champagne label What s with the letters? The two letter codes found in small print on front labels are production codes that will tell you a bit about how the wine is made. These production codes specifically refer to the winery's role in growing grapes and/or purchasing fruit or wine. It is important to note they are not an indication of quality; good and bad examples can be found in each of the categories described below. NM: Négociant manipulant. These companies buy grapes and make the wine. Most larger Champagne houses and grandes marques fall into this category. CM: Coopérative de manipulation. This refers to co-operatives that make wines from the growers who are members, with all the grapes pooled together. RM: Récoltant manipulant. Grower Champagnes are usually grouped under this category. A grower that makes wine from its own grapes (a maximum of 5% of purchased grapes is permitted). Note that co-operative members who take their bottles to be disgorged at the coop can now label themselves as RM instead of RC. SR: Société de récoltants. An association of growers making a shared Champagne but who are not a co-operative. RC: Récoltant coopérateur. A cooperative member selling Champagne produced by the co-operative under its own name and label. MA: Marque auxiliaire or Marque d'acheteur. A brand name unrelated to the producer or grower; the name is owned by someone else, for example a supermarket. ND: Négociant distributeur. A wine merchant selling under his own name.. Disgorgement Date The most important information being included on labels today is the disgorgement date. It is at this point in the winemaking process after the dead yeast cells are expelled or disgorged, that the Champagne begins its the process of aging in the bottle. Unlike still wines that are bottled once when aging is completed, Champagne houses disgorge their wines on demand. For non-vintage cuvées, t his is often a continuous process whereas vintage Champagnes may be disgorged and released into the market multiple times over a period of years. This information is important for a number of reasons, but mainly it will give you an indication as to how long it has been since the winery released that batch of wine for sale into the market.. 14

15 THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE How big is your bottle? Bottle Size Most Champagne is sold and bottled in the standard 750ml size bottle but you can find a dizzying array of bottle sizes ranging from the 187ml airline bottle up to a 30 liter bottle that contains over 3 cases of fizz. Bottle size has both advantages and drawbacks that may impact your drinking pleasure. Champagne is traditionally aged on its lees in the basic 750ml size before it is disgorged. A number of wineries also cellar their wines in half bottles and magnums. Most sparkling wines in bottles of six liters or more are filled by transferring the wine from 750s or magnums into the larger vessel. Because this transfer exposes the wine to small amounts of air and can affect pressure inside the bottle, most experts agree that sparkling wine in extra-large formats should be consumed earlier rather than later for maximum effervescence. Large format bottles will lose their fizz more quickly than the traditional 750ml size. When it comes to aging champagne, common consensus is that magnums are the preferred bottle size for cellaring. The reasons for this are numerous and mysterious but most agree that the wine evolves more slowly in magnum as compared to the standard 750ml bottle, which retains fruit flavor for a longer period of time and seems to add another dimension of complexity. Quarter 187ml = ¼ standard bottle Half/Split 375ml = ½ standard bottle Bottle 750ml = 1 standard bottle Magnum 1500ml = 2 standard bottles Jeroboam/Double Magnum 3000ml = 4 standard bottles Rehoboam 4500ml = 4.5 standard bottles Methuselah/Imperial 6000ml = 8 standard bottles Salmanazar 9000ml = 12 standard bottles Balthazar 12,000ml = 16 standard bottles Nebuchadnezzar 15,000ml = 20 standard bottles Melchior 18,000ml = 24 standard bottles Solomon 20,000ml = standard bottles Sovereign 25,000ml = standard bottles Primat 27,000ml = 36 standard bottles Melchizedek 30,000ml = 40 standard bottles 15

16 THE GRANDES MARQUES The art of assemblage When thinking of Champagne, certain brands come quickly to mind and for good reason. With many wineries tracing their histories back some 300 years or more, those still around today have developed serious brand equity. These houses are known as the grandes marques, named as such by their membership in the Union de Maisons de Champagne. While each has an historic identity and a wine style that has been nurtured and preserved over the years, today many of these houses are part of large corporations that own a number of brands. Some people might be quick to doubt the quality of their Champagnes simply because of this affiliation. However, there can be no denying the ability of the grandes marques to produce quality cuvées at various price points, all the while carrying more than their share of the promotional work which benefits the entire region. The key behind the success of Champagnes from the grandes marques is in blending. Because their large production needs are sourced from among some 20,000 growers spread out over 300 villages, it is not possible to express the flavors of a single site. Therefore a thorough understanding of blending is essential in order to produce a consistent product from year to year, especially for the non-vintage cuvées that make up the bulk of sales for each house. The tradition of adding reserve wines from past harvests allows each house to adjust the blend to account for vintage differences. At a typical grandes marques house, the chef de cave faces the daunting task of assembling wines from three different grapes, grown by hundreds of growers, from almost as many villages. Some blenders may have 300 individual lots of wine at their disposal. These young, acidic still wines are tasted and blended about six months after harvest, an incredible feat given that the winemaker has to project what these wines will taste like anywhere from three to fifteen years down the road! However the big houses are not entirely resistant to changes in style or to developing new concepts. Popularized by Bollinger's "RD" cuvée, more houses are now releasing bottles that have been aging on their lees in the cellar for periods of up to thirty years. Recognizing the increasing popularity of grower Champagnes, a few houses are also releasing cuvées that are more site specific, either from a single vineyard, from one village or a regional blend of fruit, such as a cuvée from the Côtes des Blancs. With a large quantity of vineyards at their fingertips and considerable financial resources, we can expect more innovation from the grandes marques in the future.. Grandes Marques Reviewed: Bollinger Charles Heidsieck Deutz G.H. Mumm Heidsieck Monopole Krug Laurent-Perrier Louis Roederer Moët & Chandon Nicolas Feuillatte Perrier-Jouët Piper-Heidsieck Pol Roger Pommery Salon Taittinger 16

17 BOLLINGER Aÿ When reading the story of Bollinger, the moral seems to be that adopting and upholding a style will lead to success. However, the real lesson shows that triumph comes from making the effort to educate the market about that style. Bollinger has excelled in that arena, and its exalted place among the grandes marques remains secure. Bollinger, much like Krug, has defined its style with the use of oak in winemaking. All grapes for the "Grande Année" and a significant portion destined for the "Special Cuvée" undergo fermentation in three to six year old Burgundy barrels. Bollinger is renowned for having its own coopers to maintain the barrels, which is a very expensive proposition. Bollinger also keeps a large stash of reserve wines, which are held in magnums under cork and arranged in the cellars according to vintage and village. They usually make up about 10% of the finished blend of the non-vintage "Special Cuvée. That portion of the cuvée may be an assemblage of up to ten vintages between five and twenty years of age, making the chef de cave's skill as a blender of paramount importance. These methods combine to create Bollinger's definitive style. Among the houses that use wood for fermentation and aging, Bollinger stands alone for its weight and complexity, thanks to the wide array of vineyard sources and extensive use of reserve wines for the "Special Cuvée." These wines are definitely for fans of oak-driven fizz, although it would be nice to see a bit more fruit to balance the wood component. Bollinger stands alone for its weight and complexity NV Bollinger Brut "Special Cuvée" 25% chardonnay, 15% pinot meunier, 60% pinot noir. Deep golden straw in color with a slow persistent bead. Aromas of spicy sandalwood emerge, followed by toast, honey and mead. This is a robust, masculine Champagne with intense flavors of wood and caramel, finishing with notes of yeast and other autolytic characters. (L016206) 92 points. Chuck Hayward NV Bollinger Brut Rosé 24% chardonnay, 14% pinot meunier, 62% pinot noir. Five percent of the blend consists of still pinot noir added to the base. Medium-deep salmon color. Toasty, woody notes dominate the bouquet with pinot fruit underneath. The palate shows initial hints of cherry, but strong flavors of wood, caramel and honey complete the wine. The oaky finish is dry and firm. An unusual style, it seems to miss the mark of a true rosé as it is does not display a clear expression of pinot noir fruit on the nose and palate. That said, if you prefer a firmer, oakier rosé, this is a good one. 90 points. Chuck Hayward 2000 Bollinger Brut "Grande Année" 33% chardonnay, 67% pinot noir. Deep golden color. The bouquet is classic Bollinger with strong aromas of brandy and wood, suggesting a freshly disgorged bottle, followed by fresh mushrooms. The flavors of caramel, burnt toast and lemon on the back-palate contribute to the firmly structured finish. An excellent choice for fans of oak-influenced Champagne. 93 points. Chuck Hayward 17

18 CHARLES HEIDSIECK Reims Charles Heidsieck s connection to the US market has a long and dynamic history. As Champagne production started to expand in the early 1800s, houses found themselves with more wine than local markets could drink and therefore began to export throughout Europe. Sensing opportunities overseas, Charles -Camille Heidsieck crossed the Atlantic numerous times to promote his wines, earning the nickname "Champagne Charlie" (and later a movie by the same name with Hugh Grant in the starring role). However, his arrest during the Civil War and a major diplomatic incident which led to time in jail made him rethink future travels. Today, the winery has been joined with Piper-Heidsieck under common ownership by the Rémy Martin conglomerate and has set about redefining its style. Under the direction of Regis Camus, also in charge at Piper-Heidsieck, Charles Heidsieck has assumed a distinct identity. Where Piper's Champagnes emphasize forward fruit and a richly textured palate, Camus has continued the work of his predecessor in making Charles Heidsieck a more masculine style, showing off notes of honey and toast. Interestingly, these flavors are achieved without the use of oak. Instead, the autolytic characters of yeast, nuts, and bread come from both extensive time spent on lees before bottling and a high proportion of reserve wines added to the final blend. To ensure that consumers were getting the best bubbly possible, Charles Heidsieck became one of the first houses to put disgorgement dates on all of their wines. When tasting through the portfolio, Charles Heidsieck's style was quite evident. Unlike the pattern of Bollinger, the powerful aromas of toast and yeast are more balanced here with th e fruit not so overwhelmed by autolytic characters. This is readily apparent in the vintage cuvée where the fruit is clear and present. It is when you come to the non-vintage blend, along with the tête-de-cuvée Blanc des Millénaires, that bread and nuts make their way to the forefront. NV Charles Heidsieck Brut "Brut Reserve" 33% chardonnay, 33% pinot meunier, 34% pinot noir. Fruit from the 2004 harvest comprises 60% of the blend with the remainder coming from reserve wines. Yellow gold in color. Very complex aromas of fresh apricot and citrus-laced apple coexist with toast and yeast. Medium-plus in body, the core fruit flavors are clean and focused, supported by the autolytic characters of toasted bread and caramel. A bit structured on the back-palate, the elegant finish still keeps the fruit as the focus of the wine. (Disgorged in 2008) 93 points. Chuck Hayward NV Charles Heidsieck Brut Rose "Rose Reserve" 33% chardonnay, 33% pinot meunier, 34% pinot noir. The addition of 5% still pinot noir from the grand cru of Bouzy. Salmon color. The nose is quite subtle on this cuvée with hints of Bing cherry mixing with toasty aromas. This Champagne is of medium weight with understated fruit flavors. This is a firm, structured fizz with a dry finish but lacks the juicy, pinot flavored core of other rosé Champagnes. (L082258) 90 points. Chuck Hayward 2000 Charles Heidsieck Brut Vintage 40% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir. Yellow gold in color, the backward nose shows subtle hints of yeast. Medium bodied, restrained and subtle flavors show a bit more fruit than toast or yeast, with roasted apple and pear apparent on a firmly structured palate. The finish is clean and crisp. 92 points. Chuck Hayward 1995 Charles Heidsieck Brut Blanc de Blancs "Cuvee de Millénaires 100% chardonnay. This is the tête-de-cuvée of the house and has been made only five times since Aged 10 years on the lees before disgorgement, the grapes are sourced from five grand crus in the Côtes des Blancs. This golden colored Champagne did not have much effervescence. Yeast and porcini mushroom are the primary aromas while mature characters of honeyed toast and croissants join in the bouquet. The attack is soft and gives way to intensely concentrated flavors of honey, wood and other autolytic characters. The finish is crisp and light. 94 points. Chuck Hayward 18

19 DEUTZ Aÿ Founded in 1838 as a negociant business, Deutz has seen continuous family involvement in the business for over five generations, even after the company was purchased by Roederer in Producing about 125,000 cases, Deutz falls squarely into the mid-size segment of the Champagne market. Similar to Roederer, Deutz has increased reliance on its own grape sources to maintain its style, with selfowned vineyards supplying 35% of production needs. In making the various cuvées, there is no use of oak or other oxidative procedures, though malolactic fermenation is utilized for texture. The addition of about 30-35% reserve wines also provides continuity of style for the basic non-vintage blend. Deutz is a Champagne house that has always been moderate in aspiration and in style, which is not necessarily a bad thing. Maintaining consistency in the Champagne world is quite difficult, but the blend of the basic non-vintage cuvée has been unchanged since World War I. Tasting across the portfolio, it is easy to see the Deutz style of precisely poised and balanced fruit presented cleanly and without artifice. If this style appeals to you, Deutz certainly will not disappoint. Deutz Brut "Brut Classic" 30% chardonnay, 32% pinot meunier, 38% pinot noir. A complex and balanced mélange of granny smith apple, burnt caramel and spiced pear forms the bouquet. Moderately intense flavors of crisp pear with subtle, sweet spice are fresh and vibrant. The finish is firm yet snappy. (LB111D05510) 91 points. Chuck Hayward it is easy to see the Deutz style of precisely poised and balanced fruit presented cleanly and without artifice 2002 Deutz Brut Blanc de Blancs 100% chardonnay. 90% of the fruit comes from the grand crus of Mesnil-sur-Oger and Avize. Deep straw in color, this cuvée has fresh baked bread and hints of lemon. This is a slightly fuller style of blanc de blancs with a notable palate presence. Vibrant grapefruit mingles with a touch of rich lime, and good acidity makes for a crisp finish. (LA106D0038) 92 points. Chuck Hayward 2005 Deutz Brut Rosé 100% pinot noir, 10% from still, old-vine pinot. Pale strawberry color. Hints of fresh flowers straddle aromas of cherry and earth. This elegant wine is a classic example of the Deutz style, medium weighted with subtle cherry notes on a delicate finish. (LA109D0369) 91+ points. Chuck Hayward 1998 Deutz Brut "Cuvée William" 35% chardonnay, 10% pinot meunier, 55% pinot noir. Pronounced aromas of yeast and toast formulate the bouquet's autolytic style. The palate is marked by intriguing flavors of cherry surrounded by dried apricot and other baked fruit, along with pastry dough. Almost rosé-like in flavor, the finish is crisp with hints of aged yeast. (L04D0807) 93+ points. Chuck Hayward 19

20 G.H. MUMM Reims G.H. Mumm is the third largest producer of Champagne, with the iconic "Cordon Rouge" setting the pace. Even with 540 estate-owned acres, Mumm must still source enough grapes from growers to supply 75% of their needs for each harvest. Probably the brand in the United States for over a century, it is also the winery that seems to have suffered the most in the quality department due to multiple changes in ownership. Mumm's revolving door when it comes to winemakers has not helped, as most vintners in Champagne tend to stay at their posts indefinitely. However, unlike other wineries stripped of their land and resold to cover the purchase costs, Mumm still holds these valuable resources. While the "Cordon Rouge" cuvée is closely tied to the company's identity, the house also produces one of the most unique styles of Champagne in the "Mumm de Cramant." Made since 1882, bottles of the originally-named "Cremant de Cramant" were reserved for the friends and family of G.H. Mumm and was not released for commercial sale until This chardonnay based Champagne is sourced entirely from the winery's 20 acre holdings in the grand cru of Cramant in the Côtes des Blancs. Where most Champagne of reasonable quality will spend at least three years in the cellars, this cuvée is disgorged after just 24 months to retain the fresh fruit flavor which is one of the wine s hallmarks. The winery also completes malolactic fermentation, which reduces the acidity in the final blend. Lastly, to preserve the delicate palate, the wine is bottled with only 4.5 atmospheres of pressure versus the 6 atmospheres found in most Champagnes. The result is a less effervescent wine, which might lead some to mistakenly think the bottle is a bit flat when drinking this historic Champagne. the house also produces one of the most unique styles of Champagne in the Mumm de Cramant NV G.H. Mumm Brut "Cordon Rouge" 30% chardonnay, 25% pinot meunier, 45% pinot noir. A blend of 77 crus, reserve wines comprise 10-20% of the final blend, depending on the harvest. Pale straw color. Buoyant aromas of ripe lemon, sweat, and earth lurk in the background. Round in texture with flavors of honeyed pear, those earthy notes continue onto the palate and finish of this medium bodied Champagne. 88 points. Chuck Hayward NV G.H. Mumm Brut Rosé 22% chardonnay, 18% pinot meunier, 60% pinot noir. About 12% of the finished wine is still pinot noir, mostly from the cru of Bouzy. About 18% of the blend is reserve wine drawn from three vintages of pinot noir. Deeper salmon in color, subtle aromas of crushed berry fill the nose of this elegant rendition of rosé Champagne. The pinot flavor is clean and pure, though somewhat subtle, with fresh strawberry notes lingering on the finish. This harmonious bottling was a revelation in Mumm s portfolio. 93 points. Chuck Hayward 20 NV G.H. Mumm Brut "Mumm de Cramant" 100% chardonnay. 100% from the grand cru village of Cramant. Bright yellow straw color with surprisingly good bead. Clean, lemonscented aromas are subtle and restrained while the palate shows almond-infused flavors and remarkable texture. This is close to a still wine in its palate presence with the acidity and slight effervescence serving as a gentle indicator of its Champagne pedigree. It is also one of the most distinctive sparkling wines made in Champagne. 94 points. Chuck Hayward

21 HEIDSIECK MONOPOLE Epernay Of the three Heidsieck houses in Champagne, Heidsieck Monopole is probably the least well-known winery in the American market. Founded in 1785, the brand was quite popular among European royalty during the late 19th century. Owned by the hous e of Mumm from 1972 until 1996, it was purchased by the Vranken group whose portfolio now includes Pommery and Charles Lafitte. Since the purchase, the Belgian consortium has made a considerable investment in upgrading the brand. Given the three major Champagne labels now under Vranken ownership, production is being refocused to avoid duplication of style. Accordingly, Heidsieck Monopole has been positioned as a pinot noir house with its resulting Champagnes representing a full bodied profile at more value oriented pricing. This compares to their sister house Pomm ery, which has been redirected towards a softer, fruity style by utilizing more chardonnay in the blends and is being positioned as a step up from Heidsieck. The famous "Diamant Bleu" tête-de-cuvée line is no longer made under the guise of Heidsieck Monopole and is now the core brand under the Vranken winery name. The two "Blue Top" bottlings are an interesting exercise on how grape sources can influence quality, with the premier cru bottling as a superior Champagne. with its resulting Champagnes representing a full bodied profile at more value oriented pricing NV Heidsieck Monopole Brut "Blue Top" 20% chardonnay, 10% pinot meunier, 70% pinot noir. Deep golden straw. Snappy aromas of apples and hints of herbs which follow through to the palate. Medium full bodied, there is definitely more power and structure here compared to Pommery. Straightforward with very fresh flavors of lemon drop candy and melon leading towards a dry, firm finish. A pleasant fizz. (Disgorged in 2009) 90 points. Chuck Hayward NV Heidsieck Monopole Brut "Blue Top Premier Cru" 40% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir. Made from 100% premier cru vineyards, you can easily see what better grapes can bring to the table. The palate is much richer than the basic "Blue Top" with a complete, concentrated and longer finish. Aromatically, there are wild aromas of mead, tree pollen and honey along with wood influenced minerals. (Disgorged 2006) 92 points. Chuck Hayward 21

22 KRUG Reims The house of Krug has achieved global fame among Champagne connoisseurs, and deservedly so. Yet it may be a surprise to some that the winery is in many ways a very traditional negociant house, purchasing almost all fruit from growers through long term contracts. Krug owns just 20 hectares of vineyards, of which a large portion is destined for Krug s rare single-vineyard cuvées. Although established in 1843, its rise to prominence began in the 1960s under the passionate leadership of brothers Rémi and Henri Krug. Like many wineries run by two brothers, the work was divided between production and promotion and each brother assumed a role. The shy Henri developed a reputation as one of the best blenders in Champagne, while the more outgoing Rémi travelled the world, evangelizing the Krug approach and garnering a cast of followers he called "Krugistes." In 1999, the winery was sold to the Louis Vuitton luxury group, but with continued family involvement. Olivier Krug represents the next generation in both the boardroom and the blending room. Krug s distinctive style is tied to two main skill sets that each winemaker in Champagne must possess: the talent required to create the wine and the skill and vision required to blend them. The multi-vintage "Grande Cuvée" makes up most of the production and wholly represents the philosophy of the house. Wine from one vintage comprises the base for the Grande Cuvée, but the winemaking team also utilizes Krug s extensive stock of reserve wines to add to this foundation. The base wine for the Grande Cuvée is a traditional blend of chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir with the latter two making up the majority of the blend. While the proportions vary each year, Krug is unique for the belief that pinot meunier should be a major portion of the cuvée. As with the base wine, the proportion of reserve wines also varies by vintage but is estimated to make up between 35-50% of the final wine. This portion of the cuvée is usually comprised of wines between six to ten years old, sourced from twenty to thirty different crus. It can be a daunting task to achieve consistency in a non-vintage cuvée when you are tasked with assembling various lots from both the current harvest, as well as the wide variety of reserve wines at Krug s disposal. Accomplishing this feat year after year requires talents and skills that few winemakers possess. Krug is also one of the few houses to embrace the use of oak in fermenting the base wines. This is certainly a signature trait, though the staff employs a number of techniques to keep the oak component in balance with the finished wine. By avoiding malolactic fermentation, the wines retain freshness and elegance. And with the reserve wines being aged in stainless steel, it adds a lighter touch to the final blend. Each component is a necessary part of the finished wine and together they lead to Krug s justified acclaim. NV Krug Brut "Grande Cuvee" Golden straw color with fine subtle beading, aromas of very refined oak are sophisticated and poised, rather than overpowering. Along with the gentle wood notes are subtle aromas of honey and citrus blossom. The palate is rich with mouthfilling textures and seamlessly integrated flavors, yet like the bouquet, still shows a measure of restraint. This is not a shy Champagne yet maintains elegance in the light, refined finish. Of all of the Champagnes with strong oak presence, this clearly shows deft winemaking with an appropriate amount of restraint that allows the core of fruit to shine. 94+ points. Chuck Hayward Krug s distinctive style is tied to two main skill sets that each winemaker in Champagne must possess: the talent required to create the wine and the skill and vision required to blend them 22

23 LAURENT-PERRIER Tours-sur-Marne As this essay was being written, Laurent- Perrier s extended family, along with its many workers and salesmen, were in mourning due to the passing of Bernard de Nonancourt, the winery's beloved owner. Long considered a legend among legends in Champagne, he ran the largest family-owned house there and it was through his efforts that L-P became the region's fourth largest producer. One of his most successful strategies concerned sales overseas. Whereas many grandes marques use other firms to import and sell their Champagnes in America and other export markets, Laurent- Perrier has always preferred to tackle that job internally. This has permitted the house to have intimate relationships with overseas clients, while also offering more affordable prices. Many Champagne houses can lay claim to popularizing an idea here or there, but Laurent-Perrier has been very innovative on a number of fronts. Their tete-decuvée "Grand Siècle" was first released in 1957 and remains one of the few multivintage prestige cuvées. Back then, as well as now, most such cuvées are the product of a single vintage. Laurent- Perrier's "Grand Siècle" is a blend of three vintages, adding another layer of complexity to the final product. When it comes to rosé, they have produced one of the most consistent top quality Champagnes in the market. Using the saignée method, where the blend's pinot noir component is left on the skins to gain color and add flavor to the wine, L-P s rosé is an archetype of the style and is priced reasonably well compared to its counterparts. Laurent-Perrier is also noteworthy for introducing a bone-dry, non-dosage Champagne into the market, a style that has become increasingly popular some thirty years after it was reintroduced. Despite the wide variety of signature wines that have given Laurent-Perrier its reputation, it has been the chardonnay grape that has defined its overall style. Laurent- Perrier s non-vintage cuvée has the highest percentage of chardonnay among all those made by the grandes marques. Save for their stunning rosé, the strong chardonnay component of their wines defines the hous e style, and you can expect finesse and elegance across their portfolio. NV Laurent-Perrier Brut "Brut LP" 45% chardonnay, 15% pinot meunier, 40% pinot noir. Pale straw color with a very active bead. Bright and forward aromas of crisp apple leap from the glass, combining nicely with other fresh fruit flavors. On the palate, orchard fruits give way to chalky minerals, tapering towards an elegant finish. A beautiful interpretation of an elegant chardonnay-based Champagne, this is clean and focused with real character. One of the top NV cuvées from the grandes marques in this report. (L63PV381146) 93+ points. Chuck Hayward 23 NV Laurent-Perrier Brut Nature "Ultra Brut" 55% chardonnay, 45% pinot noir. This is one of the most popular and widely distributed non-dosage Champagnes in the US market. Pale straw color. The flavors and palate presence are understated and delicate. The core of the wine has a pleasant and subtle texture, the acidity is low and the finish fades away softly. Lemon, other citrus, and nuts are subtly interwoven aromas, followed by delicate yet zippy flavors of citrus, nuts and toast. This is a lighter yet very precise non-dosage cuvée that is a bit more delicate compared to other "extra bruts" in this report. 92+ points. Chuck Hayward NV Laurent-Perrier Brut Rosé "Cuvée Rosé" 100% pinot noir. Made from the saignée process where the pinot noir is macerated on its skins to obtain color and flavor. The pinot comes from ten different grand cru vineyards. This bottling shows a pure expression of fruit at the core of the bouquet with beautiful aromas of sweet red fruits. This fresh bottling highlights tightly wound cherry and strawberry that are of medium weight, with the palate ending in a soft, concentrated finish. This consistently top notch rosé is captured in a unique reproduction of a 17th century bottle. 95 points. Chuck Hayward 2000 Laurent-Perrier Brut "Millésimé" 50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. Deep golden straw with good initial effervescence. Buttered toast and crisp pear introduce the nose. The fruit in this vintage has nice weight with integrated acids, leading to a focused finish laced with subtle of lemon zest and lime. While intense and concentrated, the midpalate is quite restrained and has a modest sense of richness. A young wine that has lots of tense fruit coiled inside, it will be interesting to see this wine unfold over time. (L43PW100704P) 92+ points. Chuck Hayward

24 LOUIS ROEDERER Reims Louis Roederer's fame is defined by two things: land and Cristal, though not necessarily in that order. Cristal, Roederer's prestige cuvée, is known across the planet for defining the concept of luxury Champagne. And owning enough land to meet almost 70% of the house s annual needs ensures they can make that cuvée when conditions are ripe for it. Family owned since 1827, Roederer is now a significant player beyond Champagne, with extensive holdings in Bordeaux and a sprinkling of others areas such as Portugal and California. But it is the 540 acres of prime vineyards in Champagne which have served as the foundation for that growth. Besides the value this land contributes to the balance sheet, Roederer also avoids the volatility in grape prices that are currently affecting the market, as demand for the best grapes continues to rise. The Roederer style emphasizes elegant fruit and subtle complexity, maintained through fermentation in stainless steel with a small percentage of oak matured wines added for intrigue. At the same time, winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, with Roederer since 1989, has avoided using malolactic fermentation in order to preserve natural acidity and increase Roederer s aging potential. In tasting through the portfolio, it was clear that Roederer's touch with the chardonnay grape is magical. Its place is easily recognized in Roederer s blends, but with a solo appearance in the blanc de blancs or as seen in the Cristal (where it makes up 45% of the blend); the wines reach stunning heights. Each of those two wines has the incredible ability to balance lightness and power and at the same time offer up loads of complex flavors. Bar none, they set the standards for Champagne in their categories. it was clear that Roederer's touch with the chardonnay grape is magical NV Louis Roederer Brut "Brut Premier" 40% chardonnay, 20% pinot meunier, 40% pinot noir. Reserve wines between 2-5 years of age make up about 10% of the blend. Light straw color. The nose is marked by faint aromas of lemon rind. This medium bodied fizz has a tighter palate presence made possible by some zippy acids. Tightly focused flavors of lemon zest continue on towards a lingering finish. (L03428A111741) 91 points. Chuck Hayward 2004 Louis Roederer Brut 30% chardonnay, 70% pinot noir. The bouquet in this release shows delicate scents of fresh nuts and toast. A burnished palate of caramel-wrapped fruit is the first impression. Overall, the flavors are restrained and leave a delicate whisper of texture on the palate. The fruit is pretty straightforward with just a hint of oxidative, woody character on the finish. 90+ points. Chuck Hayward 2004 Louis Roederer Brut Blanc de Blancs 100% chardonnay. From the grand crus of Avize and Le Mesnil. 15% of the fruit was aged in oak and malolactic fermentation was prevented. Pale straw color. Finely honed aromas of sweet chalk and fresh minerals are combined with subtle notes of flowers and lemon zest. This vibrant chardonnay cuvée is beautifully poised with a perfectly balanced palate presence from entry to finish. The purity of fruit here is exhilarating, with no oak or yeast impression. The finish is long, complex and focused. This is an elegant wine that avoids the austerity associated with other blanc de blancs. (L033312A100411) 95 points. Chuck Hayward 2005 Louis Roederer Brut Rosé 30% chardonnay, 70% pinot noir. Made in the saignée method with 20% of the wine matured in oak. Light strawberry color with subtle beading. Unusual for most saignée rosés, this is a subtly crafted wine with understated flavors and textures, lighter in expression, but not so delicate that skin phenolics create bitterness. The palate is mellow and soft with a subtle presence on the palate and a delicate finish. 91 points. Chuck Hayward 2002 Louis Roederer Brut "Cristal" 45% chardonnay, 55% pinot noir. 20% of the base wine sees oak aging but malolactic fermentation is not encouraged. A very refined bouquet, showing a constantly evolving mélange of lime candy, lemon sponge cake and creamy butter. The fruit here is bright and polished, and the nicely integrated acids propel the flavors towards a richly concentrated conclusion. Despite the powerful flavors, there is some lightness here. At the same time, the wine as a whole seems a touch disjointed, indicating the need for more time in the cellar after which this astounding fizz will become seamless, integrated and even more incredible. Pretty excellent stuff. (L033172C100862) 98 points. Chuck Hayward 24

25 MOËT & CHANDON Epernay Moët & Chandon occupies a special place in the pantheon of Champagne's grandes marques. Owned by the Louis Vuitton luxury goods conglomerate, this esteemed house represents the M in LVMH. Perhaps even more important is that Moët & Chandon is responsible for the icon of icons, a product that practically defines luxury and all the things that go with it Dom Pérignon. Developed in the early 1930s at a time when the economy was suffering, and along with it global demand for Champagne, this tête-de-cuvée garnered instant acclaim and over successive decades, prompted just about every major Champagne producer to develop their own signature cuvée. But by being first, Dom Pérignon secured its place as the most recognized and sought after prestige cuvée in the world. It stands in such high regard as a singular luxury brand name, that most people probably could not tell you that Moët & Chandon is the house behind this fabled cuvée. Given its exalted place in the wine world, it is quite surprising how little is actually known about the production of Dom Pérignon. The corporation guards its production levels like a state secret. Finding out information about the varietal or vineyard components is likewise very difficult. Nevertheless, since winemaker Richard Geoffroy came on board as head winemaker for Dom Pérignon, more information is becoming available to those who seek it. For such a popular wine, it is difficult for many to describe its style or its place within a stylistic hierarchy. That may be because drinking Dom Pérignon is more an experience than a study in Champagne style. Nevertheless, knowing a few facts about how Dom is made will help you understand where it fits in among other têtede-cuvées. While exact percentages vary from vintage to vintage, the composition of Dom Pérignon each year is roughly chardonnay and pinot noir. In addition, the first release of Dom is a bit earlier than for other tête-de-cuvées, being only seven years after harvest. That said, some of the finished product from each vintage is held for longer periods in the cellar, later released as Dom Pérignon Oenothèque. As winemaker Geoffroy notes, Dom Pérignon is not about "brute force." Instead, it is an elegantly-styled Champagne that emphasizes freshness and precise flavors. According to Geoffroy, "oxidation is our sworn enemy," and this is clearly seen in the straw colored liquid in the glass and the lighter touch on the palate. Where many tête-de-cuvées will rest en tirage (on the lees) for ten years or more, Dom spends less time in the cellar, which reduces the opportunity for autolytic qualities to develop. This is not to say that Dom is austere or lean. In fact, this Champagne evokes the feeling that a treasure-trove of flavor is packed into the palate, just waiting to be revealed. Compared with the large array of prestige cuveés made by the region's wineries, Dom Pérignon's style is quite unique and stands alone for its precise and focused flavors. drinking Dom Pérignon is more an experience than a study in Champagne style 2002 Moët & Chandon Brut "Cuvée Dom Pérignon" Approximately 50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. Straw colored with a persistent fine bead, the bouquet is high-toned and focused showing restrained aromas of citrus, a bit of wet stone, and spearmint. It opens softly with delicate flavors of lemon blossom, then explodes on the palate with great intensity. Soft minerals appear interwoven with flavors of apples, young pears and citrus cream. Toasty or yeasty qualities are not found here. Never rich or over the top, the flavors are focused and pristine while at the same time intense and concentrated as the wine glides along a path, leading to a rich feathery finish. One gets the impression of coiled flavors that will be unfurled over time. A Champagne that leaves you with the desire for more. 96 points. Chuck Hayward 25

26 NICOLAS FEUILLATTE Chouilly Nicolas Feuillatte is the brand name used by the Centre Vinicole de la Champagne, the largest growers' cooperative in the region and from which the grapes of some 4500 individual growers comprise 7% of Champagne s total acreage. The best selections are used for the Feuillatte label, currently ranked among the top 5 Champagne houses by sales. With all the history that surrounds many houses, this co-op and its brand are relative newcomers to the game. Created in 1971, they purchased the Feuillatte label from its namesake proprietor in 1986, some 17 years later. Feuillatte produces a wide range of styles from its bestselling "Brut Reserve", a non-vintage cuvée, to the Palmes d'or and its iconic dimpled bottle. Having worked at the Centre Viticole since 1976, Feuillatte s Jean- Pierre Vincentis places an increasing emphasis on smaller production bottlings that push the stylistic envelope. Among the new wine styles he has introduced is the "Brut Extrem ", a zerodosage cuvée, along with a barrel fermented blend of equal portions of chardonnay and pinot noir labeled "Cuvée 225". The style of Feuillatte is one of balance and precision. Each of the cuvées I tried had a beautiful expression of fruit, and were neither overwrought nor extreme. At the same time, there was no sense of dilution or excessive restraint across their portfolio. The wines were of medium to medium-full weight with the fruit component the most apparent quality. The freshness and concentration in the NV "Brut Reserve" caught my attention along with the delicacy of the Blanc de Blancs. Nicolas Feuillatte has always had a reputation as one of the best cooperatives in the wine world, and the new releases serve to seal that reputation. The style of Feuillatte is one of balance and precision NV Nicolas Feuillatte "Brut Reserve" 40% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir, 20% pinot meunier. The base vintage for this cuvée is fruit from the 2006 and 2007 harvest. A surprising performance, this best-seller showed particularly well. Bright and clean with aromas of baked apples and fresh dough. Medium -full bodied in weight, the palate emphasizes creamy fruit supported by a firm backbone on the long and concentrated finish. Fruit comes first here, not yeast or doughy aspects, and the cuvée is all the better for it. (L032837) 92 points. Chuck Hayward 2004 Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs 100% chardonnay. This cuvée is tightly wound and delicately framed with pristine citrus on the nose along with gingery spice. Medium-light in weight, focused flavors of lime and lemon are apparent without autolytic characters. While a bit short on the finish, this classically styled blanc de blancs is perfect for oysters. (L24588) 90 points. Chuck Hayward 26 NV Nicolas Feuillatte Rosé 60% pinot noir, 30% pinot meunier, 10% chardonnay. A pale salmon color with restrained bubbles. The bouquet offers up notes of subtle dusty spices more than fruit. Those same spices appear on the palate, wrapped in bing cherries. The stylistic emphasis here is on subtlety and measured restraint, with a delicate fruity finish to complete the experience. (L24587) 91 points. Chuck Hayward 1998 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'or 50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. This têtede-cuvée is aged on the lees for ten years before it released to the market. The extended aging gives this prestige wine its distinctive aromas of fresh yeast and dough along with some honeyed citrus fruits. As the wine opens up, aromas of ripe pears and roasted nuts unfurl. The soft entry does not prepare you for the explosively textured flavors on the back-palate. Hard lemon candy combines with hints of caramel to bring vibrancy to the quick finish. A great food wine. (L22801) 93 points. -Chuck Hayward

27 PIPER-HEIDSIECK Reims Of the three Heidsieck properties in Champagne, Piper-Heidsieck has the most visibility in the US market. The company garnered some impressive sales based primarily from its Piper- Heidsieck Extra-Dry Champagne, which built up the winery's image as much as "White Star" did for Moët & Chandon. And like Moët, it has been difficult to expand the winery's profile beyond the shadow of that one product. Producing almost half a million cases per year, Piper-Heidsieck is a true negociant. They own no vineyards and must depend on contracts with growers to meet all production needs. Under the ownership of the Rémy Martin conglomerate, the winery has been given enough funds to gather the necessary fruit and equipment, but critics concede that it is winemaker Regis Camus who has been the driving force in reviving the fortunes of the house. Also steering the wheel at sister winery Charles Heidsieck, Camus has refined and focused the efforts at both hous es by creating clear and distinct styles for each. While the grandes marques leave the impression that they are too big to innovate, Piper has done just that with the introduction of a compelling demi-sec cuvée and a fascinating reinterpretation of the standard rosé Champagne. Like all wineries who want their prestige cuvée to reach great heights, Piper has attempted and succeeded at climbing that mountain. Made only seven times since its introduction in 1976, the "Rare" is indeed that rare in quantity and extraordinary in quality, with the 1999 representing one of the best wines tasted during my research for this report. It stands as proof that to dismiss the grandes marques is to do so at your own peril. NV Piper-Heidsieck "Brut" 15% chardonnay, 30% pinot meunier, 55% pinot noir % of the blend is comprised of reserve wines. Forward aromas of roasted apple and bright juicy fruit straddle scents of toast and yeast. Round and textured on the palate, the soft fruit flavors are propelled by low acidity, creating an eminently quaffable style. Impressively textured. Tasted twice. 92+ points. Chuck Hayward NV Piper-Heidsieck Rosé "Cuvée Sublime" 15% chardonnay, 30% pinot meunier, 55% pinot noir. A demi-sec style, sweetened by using a dosage about four times sweeter than for brut Champagnes. Forward aromas of mango, ripe pear and other tropical fruits distinguish this cuvée. This is a very balanced demi-sec with confectionary flavors to go along with the ripe fruit. Not cloying at all thanks to some fine acidity, this balanced Champagne is a perfect match with spicy Asian cuisine. A big surprise in this lineup. 93 points. Chuck Hayward 2003 Piper-Heidsieck Brut Rosé "Rosé Sauvage" 15% chardonnay, 40% pinot meunier, 45% pinot noir. Another unique Champagne made by wünderkind chef de cave Regis Camus, he added 20% pinot noir still wine to the blend, almost double the average. The result is a very deeply colored rosé with forward aromas reminiscent of gamay, with hints of fresh earth lying underneath. Medium bodied with a soft, fruity finish that hints at viscosity, the finish is clean and dry. A stylish rosé in every way. 93 points. Chuck Hayward 1999 Piper-Heidsieck Brut "Cuvée Rare" 70% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir. Interestingly, the chardonnay component for this blend comes from the Montagne de Reims, better known for growing pinot noir. The bouquet is incredible, a never-ending mélange of lemon blossom, tropical fruit, and sweet spice. Enticing and alluring, the aromas are seamless and integrated. Citrus, sweet yeast and toast, along with subtle honey notes, glide across the palate, which shows just a hint of firmness at the finish. Like the best Champagnes, this cuvée is flavorful, showing power and an ethereal lightness at the same time. Rocking! 97 points. Chuck Hayward 27

28 POL ROGER Epernay Pol Roger is one of the world's most beloved Champagne houses and much of that has to do with one man. Christian Pol-Roger s worldly travels have been instrumental in building awareness of his brand and establishing relationships in many markets. Urbane and witty with a sly grin, he has worked ceaselessly to promote Pol Roger and the sales have followed accordingly. Pol Roger also benefitted from having Winston Churchill as one of the firm's most prestigious patrons. Introduced to Sir Winston back in 1906 when only vintage Pol Roger Champagne was sold to the British market, Churchill drank the stuff daily and was so besotted with the house that he named one of his racehorses after the house. The respect was mutual. After his death, the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill was formulated as the tête-de-cuvée, with a robust structure as the statesman preferred. In fact, the wines of Pol Roger were beloved in England since the early 20th century, where the preferred style was bold flavor paired with a firm, dry finish. This required a significant proportion of pinot noir to absorb the role of oak fermentation and aging. Over the years, Pol Roger has adapted its wines to reflect the changing global markets. The style has shifted towards a more elegant approach, and Pol Roger has responded by using stainless steel for fermentation and increasing the chardonnay portion in the blends. Pol Roger's Blanc de Blancs remains the gem in the portfolio, showing off the grape's flavors to perfection. NV Pol Roger Brut "Brut Reserve" 33% chardonnay, 33% pinot meunier, 34% pinot noir. About 25% of this cuvée comes from stock of reserve wines. Light yellow gold color. Subtle aromas of spiced apple and citrus candy are followed by light floral notes. Medium-full bodied, there is plenty of texture, with lightness on the midpalate. Dried apricot, citrus rind and hints of quince form the foundation of this wine's flavors. A robust Champagne, this cuvée still maintains a sense of elegance, ending in a snappy firm finish. (L012517) 92 points. Chuck Hayward the wines of Pol Roger were beloved in England since the early 20th century, where the preferred style was bold flavor paired with a firm, dry finish 1999 Pol Roger Brut Blanc de Blancs 100% chardonnay. Grapes are sourced from five of the seven chardonnay grand crus in the Côtes des Blancs. Golden straw in color. Forward aromas of buttered toast, apple and lemon blossom combine with an intensely flavored palate that shows firm structure. The chardonnay fruit here is ripe, full bodied and textured and shows real presence on the backpalate. The finish is nutty and round, developing viscosity as the wine opens up. A fuller styled blanc de blancs, this vintage is starting to fill out and gain its textbook richness. 94 points. Chuck Hayward 2000 Pol Roger Brut 40% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir. Pale gold color. Moderately intense aromas of brioche, spice and fruit make up the primary aromas for this cuvée. Structured on the palate with firm acids that add a bracing component to the crisp, lemony finish. 90 points. Chuck Hayward 2004 Pol Roger Rosé 35% chardonnay, 65% pinot noir. Still pinot noir of 15% is added to the blend. Pale salmon color. Subtle aromas of earth, cherry and dusty spice are apparent. This is a light- to mediumbodied Champagne with a delicate center of strawberry and a fruity finish that is feather soft. 92 points. Chuck Hayward 28

29 POMMERY Epernay Pommery is one of the largest of the grandes marques houses, yet its presence in the American market has never been on par with its global stature. Originally part of the Louis Vuitton corporate Champagne structure, Belgian wine conglomerate Vranken purchased Pommery along with Heidsieck Monopole in The company then installed Thierry Gasco as, amazingly only the 9th person to hold this position in Pommery s history. Gasco has proceeded to revitalize the house, starting with their basic non-vintage cuvée. One of the largest land holders in Champagne, Pommery still relies on a coterie of dedicated growers to supply their needs. Gasco has refocused the house style by incorporating more chardonnay in recent years and avoiding any use of oak in fermenting or aging of the cuvées. The goal is to move away from the heavy, yeasty style of the past and bring forth a fresher and more elegant profile. The new Pommery style is encapsulated in the recent releases of Pommery's "Brut Royal." The quality of this Champagne has improved leaps and bounds by bringing forth textures that emphasize fruit over the autolytic qualities of yeast and toast. Rich yet approachable, this is one of the top non-vintage cuvées from the big Champagne houses and is a sure-fire winner for drinking for any occasion, any time of year. NV Pommery Brut Royal 33% chardonnay, 33% pinot meunier, 34% pinot noir. Blended from 40 different crus, Pommery's main cuvée exhibits a golden color. Very intense aromas of pear jump out of the glass, while hints of toast and bread are content to lie underneath. Fairly full bodied, the palate has broad texture with spice and hard lemon candy, along with baked apple and pear. The emphasis here is on fruit, with a rich and round finish that is creamy and soft. Very good quality for a basic NV cuvée. 93 points. Chuck Hayward NV Pommery Brut "Apenage" 33% chardonnay, 33% pinot meunier, 34% pinot noir. Blended from Pommery's top twenty cru vineyards. Straw gold, this is lighter in color than the "Brut Royal". The nose here is restrained, with aromas of toasted breads and brioche along with yeast. The palate follows the lead of the bouquet with a compact, linear profile featuring high-toned citrus and fresh lime. The finish here is soft and delicate. (L00969) 91 points. Chuck Hayward NV Pommery Brut Rosé 33% chardonnay, 33% pinot meunier, 34% pinot noir. 5% still pinot from the village of Bouzy is added to the blend. The color is a very subtle shade of salmon. Aromas of red berries mingle with fresh bread. A lighter style of rosé in both flavor and body, the flavors of dried fruits dominate with a soft and delicate finish. (L91941) 90 points. Chuck Hayward NV Pommery Brut Blanc de Noirs 80% pinot noir, 20% pinot meunier. Grapes from ten crus are used in this cuvée. Yellow gold in color, there's an active bead here. The restrained nose shows delicate aromas of sandalwood which later appear on the palate along with stone fruit flavors. Medium bodied, this cuvée is more suited to the dinner table than as an aperitif. (L35273) 90 points. Chuck Hayward 1999 Pommery "Cuvée Louise" 60% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir. Grapes from the crus of Avize, Cramant and Aÿ. Named after Louise Pommery, who is said to have coined the term "brut" when dry Champagne came into fashion. Very good effervescence, the high toned and pure aromas of dried fruits and nuts is most present, quite different from the juicier fruit style of the "Brut Royal". Flavors of marzipan and dried apricots combine with aromas of fresh cut sandalwood. Of medium weight in body, the flavors fan out across the palate towards a finish displaying dried apricots and toast. (L91805) 92 points. Chuck Hayward 29

30 SALON Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Salon has gained its sterling reputation and cult status for a multitude of reasons. For one, the house produces very little wine, only about 5000 cases for each release. In addition, wine is only made in declared vintages, so that only 39 vintages have been produced since In those other years, the fruit goes to Delamotte, Salon s sister winery next door. Finally, the house makes a unique style, composed of 100% chardonnay from just one grand cru village. In fact, it was the first blanc de blancs Champagne ever made. In a region where Champagne houses span centuries, Salon is relatively new to the scene with the first production occurring less than 100 years ago. At the time, most Champagne was a blend of red and white grapes, which resulted in wines with body and texture. Founder Eugene-Amie Salon was looking to make a lighter style. When constructing his first vintages, Salon found that vineyards in the village of Le Mesnil in the Côtes des Blancs were capable of producing the desired ripeness and acidity while maintaining delicacy. Those same twenty vineyards are still used in making today's cuvées. The goal at Salon is to show the chardonnay fruit as cleanly as possible, without excessive manipulation. Accordingly, there is no wood influence during fermentation or maturation at any point in the process. Malolactic fermentation is also avoided to preserve acidity and retain the elegant profile that is the hallmark trait of Salon. The style here is one of purity, focus and delicacy, rather than richness and overt textures. Given Salon's concentrated fruit and acidity, older vintages often gain some weight and color, but will still be more subtle than many of its counterparts. The goal at Salon is to show the chardonnay fruit as cleanly as possible, without excessive manipulation 1997 Salon Brut 100% chardonnay. From fruit grown in the grand cru village of Le Mesnil. Very subtle bead and light straw in color. The bouquet is gentle and refined. With some coaxing, aromas of citrus zest and sea shell appear, followed by fresh yeast and caramel. With more time, fresh scents of brioche emerge, along with a hint of pepper. Elegantly profiled and delicate on entry, the core of the wine is clean and bright with subtle flavors of citrus and spice. There's a bit of weight on the palate but this is more subtle than powerful. Integrated acids create tension and focus the palate towards a tight and compact finish. 94 points. Chuck Hayward 30

31 TAITTINGER Reims Taittinger was one of the last familyowned grandes marques to be sold to one of the multinational corporations that populate the Champagne industry. However, when the Taittinger family secured enough money to purchase back the winery in 2008, the locals rejoiced. In a region where the history is highlighted by an unending list of wineries and vineyards traded back and forth over the centuries, the return of the Taittinger family was certainly a feel -good story for Champagne. For a winery that has great name recognition across the planet, it was a surprise to learn that the house's history began in earnest only after World War II, especially given that one of the winery's treasures is its 4th century cellar. Carved out of chalk by the Romans, these ancient rooms have a conical shape and are spread about haphazardly beneath the more rec ently constructed offices (built in the 13th century). Taittinger prides itself as being a house which cherishes chardonnay's role in the final blend. The family's extensive land holdings of 750 acres are also an important family heritage but surprisingly, only 35% of their vineyards are planted to their beloved grape. Consequently, they are obligated to purchase chardonnay from other growers. Given the house's preference for that variety, the portfolio of wines leans towards a more delicate expression without any influence from oak. NV Taittinger Brut "La Francaise" 40% chardonnay, 10% pinot meunier, 50% pinot noir. Yellow straw in color with pronounced aromas of roasted apple and honeyed toast in the background. This cuvée is medium bodied in weight with flavors of baked fruits and notes of brioche on the back-palate. While there is some texture on the midpalate, it tightens up on the finish creating a firm and elegant ending. (L0154NA04200) 91 points. Chuck Hayward NV Taittinger Brut Rosé "Prestige Rosé" 30% chardonnay, 70% pinot noir. The rosé is made by adding still pinot noir wine from Ambonnay and Bouzy to the blend. Pale cherry color. The nose is dominated by scents of dark cherry, along with earthy pinot fruit. A bit of smoke, pepper and clove lie underneath the fruit aromas. A mellow entry leads to a delicate core of fruit on the midpalate. Light on its feet but in no way subtle or extracted, the finish is short and soft. 91+ points. Chuck Hayward NV Taittinger Brut "Prelude" 50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. This newly introduced cuvée from Taittinger is made entirely from grand cru fruit. The chardonnay is from the crus of Avize and Le Mesnil-sur- Oger in the Côtes des Blancs while the pinot noir is sourced from the Montagne de Reims crus of Ambonnay and Bouzy. Golden straw color. This offers notable aromas of honeyed toast, ginger and yeast. There is a soft, round presence of medium weight fruit conveying the aromas onto the palate. This cuvée ends up with a feathered, soft finish that is subtle and delicate. 90+ points. Chuck Hayward 2004 Taittinger Brut Vintage Rosé 50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. All the grapes are from grand cru vineyards. This freshly disgorged bottle shows very subtle aromas of lemon rind with fresh, loamy earth. The initial entry on the palate is delicate and leads towards light-medium weight texture later on. The finish is subtle and fades away gently. The overall impression here is one of elegantly framed flavors from beginning to end. Not for those looking for viscosity in their Champagne. 92 points. Chuck Hayward 1998 Taittinger Brut Blanc de Blancs "Comtes de Champagne" 100% chardonnay from all seven of the grand cru sites in the Côtes des Blancs. A small portion (usually about 5%) sees time in oak. The aromas are subtle and introverted yet very complex with an array that includes ripe pear, Granny Smith apple along with yeast, nuts and Bit-o-Honey candy. The flavors are precise and moderately intense directed more towards restraint than richness. Apple and peach appear initially mingling with soft talc-like textures of chalk. The crisp and snappy finish reinforces this cuvée's delicate nature. 93 points. Chuck Hayward 2004 Taittinger Brut Rosé "Comtes de Champagne" 30% chardonnay and 70% pinot noir. 100% grand cru grapes make up this blend with 12% still pinot added to the base wine. Pristine and focused aromas of cherry and strawberry emanate from this pale strawberry colored cuvée. Like its Brut counterpart, this rosé is also delicate and elegant with crisp red berry and cherry flavors. The dry finish picks up spice then gently fades. 94 points. Chuck Hayward 31

32 THE MINI-MARQUES Small size, but large stature While the bulk of Champagne is made by the larger houses, there are a number of other operations that resemble the grandes marques. They are usually smaller in size, more focused in their grape sources, and their Champagne style is often more precisely defined with higher quality fruit making up the backbone of their cuvées. Many are owned by the same multinational companies that own the grandes marques. Yet these labels operate in a space between the grandes marques, who produce higher quantities and are more well known, and the grower Champagnes, who make much less and are relatively new to our shores. No name really exists for this important segment of the market, so I have decided to call them the "minimarques." Because these houses are smaller in size, they usually require more effort to locate. In many cases, importers and distributors have determined that it is uneconomical to promote and sell them. In addition, because these properties choose to make Champagne according to their historical or personal vision, retail or restaurant buyers may decide not to carry a specific bottling if they think it does not meet the needs of their clients. Mini-Marques Reviewed: Alfred Gratien Delamotte Drappier Gosset Phillipponat Vranken However, it is exactly because these properties come from unique locations and produce Champagnes of a personal nature, that they deserve yo ur consideration.. 32

33 ALFRED GRATIEN Epernay Michael Edwards, in his excellent book The Finest Wines of Champagne, calls Alfred Gratien "the most rigorously oldfashioned Champagne house of the oak school." Indeed, the house has devoted itself to adhering to tradition as much as possible, maintaining barrel fermentation and hands-on rather than mechanized cellar practices. As the fourth generation at Gratien, Nicolas Jaeger is partly responsible for that, along with a winemaking heritage that stretches back to In another nod to traditional winemaking techniques, all of the vintage Champagne is aged under cork rather than crown seals while the wine lies in the cellar before disgorgement. While more time-consuming, this enhances the autolytic character in the wine which is responsible for a Champagne s body and texture on the palate. Gratien is also unique in using a large portion of pinot meunier in their cuvées which adds additional body and richness. Given the heavy reliance on barrels and the strong presence of pinot meunier, one might expect these Champagnes to show heavy textures paired with excessive toast and yeast characteristics. Not so. Across the board, each wine showed a striking balance between power and refinement. These are intensely flavored Champagnes that never seemed ponderous or overwhelming, thanks to the lift provided by chardonnay. Absence of malolactic fermentation retains the freshness of the base wine s natural acidity, bringing elegance to the finish. While the house depends on fruit from a number of growers, most have worked with the winery for many generations, and the quality level of Gratien is often compared to that of the top grower Champagnes. This house deserves your attention. NV Alfred Gratien Brut Classique 45% chardonnay, 12% pinot noir, 43% pinot meunier. The fruit from the 2005 harvest comprised the foundation of this release, with about 15% reserve wine added. Pale straw color. Subtle but intense aromas of fresh yeast, toast and biscuits are fresh and focused. Rich flavors of dried fruits dominate this fairly full bodied cuvée which finishes with bold, concentrated richness while maintaining elegance and lightness. A complex and flavorful wine that perfectly captures the Gratien house style. Disgorged May 2009 (L ) 92+ points. Chuck Hayward NV Alfred Gratien Classique Rosé 45% chardonnay, 15% pinot noir, 40% pinot meunier. The base vintage for this cuvée is the 2005 and about 9% red still wine from Bouzy is added to the blend. Pronounced biscuity nose along with fresh yeast notes belie the ripe and powerful fruits that come through on the palate. There is a juicy, primary cherry laced fruit component that builds in complexity across the palate, accompanied by additional notes of toast. The finish here is thick and concentrated. (L ) 91+ points. -Chuck Hayward NV Alfred Gratien Cuvée Paradis" 65% chardonnay, 18% pinot noir, 17% pinot meunier. Aged 6 years on the lees, this release is from the 2002 vintage, but is not labeled as such. Slightly more saturated straw color than the NV Brut Classique. Subtle but intense, 33 high-toned aromas of delicate citrus notes intermingle with scents of fresh yeast. A more elegant statement is made here with a somewhat lighter palate profile, this wine nevertheless shows clean, complex flavors of citrus and toasted nuts at first. Richness kicks in later, with citrus marmalade appearing on a long finish. Another excellent example of intensity that is not burdensome. (L ) 93+ points. Chuck Hayward NV Alfred Gratian Rosé Cuvée Paradis 66% chardonnay, 24% pinot noir, 10% pinot meunier. Aged 6 years on the lees, this is from the 2002 vintage but is not labeled as such. Pale salmon color with a delicate bead. Like the NV Classique Rosé, the aromas are more about fresh yeast than pinot fruit. The palate, however, has big pinot noir presence, with intense bright cherry flavors that belie expectations given the lighter color. The kirsch qualities are concentrated and deep, almost viscous in texture. (L ) 94 points. -Chuck Hayward 1999 Alfred Gratien Brut Vintage 63% chardonnay, 17% pinot noir, 20% pinot meunier. Pale straw color with delicate and subtle autolytic character, along with lemon verbena and Kaffir lime. The attack here is light but the flavors quickly build in intensity and power. Citrus marmalade flavors appear later, concentrating pleasantly on the back palate. Again, the hallmark traits of structure and weight are balanced with a refined elegance. (L ) 94+ points. Chuck Hayward

34 DELAMOTTE Le Mesnil-sur-Oger The year 2010 marks Delamotte's 250th anniversary, an uncommon milestone in the wine world. Despite being the sixth oldest house in Champagne, Delamotte is one of the least well-known, perhaps due to the modest yearly production of 25,000 cases. What Delamotte is known for, however, is its close relationship to Salon, one of the most famous producers in the Côtes des Blancs. Both houses are owned by Laurent-Perrier, and both share a passion for the chardonnay grape. When Salon does not declare a vintage, which has occurred 50 times in the last 89 years, the connection takes on even greater implications. In those years, the vin clairs from Salon's vineyards in Le Mesnil are passed on to the cellars of Delamotte, with the majority ending up in Delamotte s vintage Champagne. To maintain a noticeable stylistic difference between the two properties, Delamotte puts their wines through malolactic fermentation in order to give the naturally acidic wines more roundness on the palate. Salon, on the other hand, prevents malolactic from occurring, preserving the acidity necessary for long cellaring. Given the location of Delamotte in the Côtes des Blancs, I expected their Champagnes to clearly show the appellation's traits of elegance and finesse on the palate. I was therefore surprised by their richness, a result of the higher proportion of black grapes in the blend of the basic non vintage brut. The vintage Champagne is the more classic representation of the Côtes des Blancs and clearly shows its viticultural heritage. When Salon does not declare a vintage...the vin clairs from Salon's vineyards in Le Mesnil are passed on to the cellars of Delamotte, with the majority ending up in Delamotte s vintage Champagne NV Delamotte Brut 50% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir, 20% pinot meunier. Light yellow gold in color, this complex wine has forward aromas of ripe apple and bright expressions of lemon with understated notes of toast and fresh yeast. This flavorful Champagne offers breadth across the midpalate and a long finish propelled by integrated acids. Not creamy as such, the lingering citrus infused flavors mingle with a touch of caramel in the finish. 92 points. Chuck Hayward NV Delamotte Brut Rosé 80% pinot noir, 20% chardonnay. 100% grand cru grape sources from the Côtes des Blancs. This rosé is made in the saignée method, with the color coming from macerating the pinot noir on its skins rather than by addition of red wine. The bouquet is redolent of dried cherry, along with sage and other herbs. Unlike other saignée rosés, the fruit profile is somewhat less textural and weighty. Rather, this is a crisp, classic rosé, with subtle berries lingering through to a dry, firm finish. 91 points. Chuck Hayward 1999 Delamotte Brut Vintage 100% chardonnay from the grand crus of Avize, Le Mesnil and Oger. Fresh earth and notes of caramel candy comprise the basic aromas. The unique aromatic quality carries through on the palate, where subtle talc-like textures of chalky soil appear on the finish. Fairly full bodied, there is some noticeable citrus in the palate's core. 91+ points. Chuck Hayward 34

35 DRAPPIER Urville Drappier's Champagnes reflect the inherent qualities of their terroir perfectly. The Côte des Bar is the southernmost of the five major regions in Champagne. Climatically, this area is warmer, which makes it easier for grapes to attain ripeness and gives the resulting Champagnes more forward flavors and aromas, as well as rich textures on the palate. Some 90 kilometers from the action in Epernay and Reims, these southern regions were often the source of riper fruit for the grandes marques to blend with the steely, linear wines made from the Côtes des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims. Drappier is one of the largest estates in the Aube, a subregion of the Côte des Bar, where the winery has maintained a longstanding reputation as a pinot noir house. In the 1930s, they were one of the first to uproot poor growing clones of pinot, as well as gamay, which the house viewed to be of lesser quality. Most of the chardonnay required for their blends comes from purchased fruit. Drappier gained some notoriety in France for being the preferred Champagne of Charles de Gaulle. Despite its erratic distribution in the US market over the past twenty years, Drappier has maintained a reputation as a house that offers very good quality Champagne at affordable prices. In evaluating Drappier's current releases, it is quite evident that many cuvées over deliver in the price-value department, especially if you prefer a house style that is rich and forward. Drappier has maintained a reputation as a house that offers very good quality Champagne at affordable prices NV Drappier Brut Rosé The color is a beautifully deep strawberry with vibrant effervescence. Primary aromas of ripe cherry, pepper and hints of earth are quite pronounced and bring to mind youthful Burgundy. A ripe and forward style of rosé, the midpalate is bright and weightless yet finishes in a crescendo of crisp cherry and berry on a lingering finish. Integrated acids prevent the wine from being ponderous. Delicious. (LT652987) 95 points. Chuck Hayward NV Drappier Brut Blanc de Blancs "Signature" 100% chardonnay. Forward and intense aromas of toast straddle rich, honeyed fruit suggesting that this will be a more luscious example of a blanc de blancs. This is confirmed on the palate and this richly textured bubbly shows its chardonnay component with authority. The flavors are ripe with hints of tropical fruits. The round palate continues on to a rich finish. A great value for those who like ripe and rich fizz. 94 points. Chuck Hayward 2000 Drappier Brut "Millésimé Exception" 40% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir. A beautiful light yellow-bronze sheen. Quite toasty with intense and pure aromas of fresh mushroom, honey and yeast underneath. Very full bodied with mouth filling texture, the vintage trait of nicely integrated acidity reins in the fruit and prevents the wine from being ponderous or viscous. The palate fades towards a delicate finish of lemon scented fruit. (Disgorged July 2007) 93 points. Chuck Hayward 35

36 GOSSET Aÿ Gosset can lay claim to be being the oldest wine house in the Champagne region, although production of sparkling wine did not commence until a few centuries after its establishment in Located in the village of Aÿ, the house has always been proud of its history, which includes ownership of a winery built by King Francis I. At that time, the winery produced still reds from neighboring vineyards. Today, those same vineyards are in the grand cru of Aÿ and noted for being some of the best pinot noir in Champagne. Following the winery's purchase by the Frapin Cognac firm, Gosset s fortune has advanced considerably, especially in recent years. With a new source for funds available to the house, J ean- Pierre Mareigner has been able to recreate the portfolio and make more contemporary wine styles for the market. While the "Brut Excellence" is a great value for those who prefer a more straightforward and robust Champagne, the three premium cuvées packaged in recreations of bottles that Gosset used in the 18th century were a pleasant surprise. Each cuvée offered balanced yet intense flavors while maintaining a sense of elegance and lightness. They caught my attention and certainly merit yours. Each cuvée offered balanced yet intense flavors while maintaining a sense of elegance and lightness NV Gosset Brut "Brut Excellence" 36% chardonnay, 19% pinot meunier, 45% pinot noir. Deep straw in color. Active bubbles propel aromas of dried toast, buttered brioche and honey mead. This cuvée is robust and firm with an intensely flavored presence on the palate. Without being oaky, this cuvée is sculpted and structured, finishing with nutty and spicy flavors. An excellent value. 92 points. Chuck Hayward NV Gosset Brut "Grande Reserve" 46% chardonnay, 15% pinot meunier, 45% pinot noir. The fruit comes from premier and grand cru vineyards sites. Reserve wines from two other vintages (2003 and 2004) are added to the 2005 that forms the foundation of this release. A moderately intense bouquet of young pear and apple is intertwined with dry spice along with chalk and caramel. Yeast, raw mushroom and lemon candy aromas appear later. Light-medium in body with flavors of spicy apricot and nuts. The wine's most attractive features are its elegance and balance. Tasted twice. (L ) 94 points. Chuck Hayward NV Gosset Brut "Grand Rosé" 58% chardonnay, 42% pinot noir. Still wine from the grand cru villages of Ambonnay and Bouzy make up 7% of the blend, which is traditionally sourced from three vintages. Pale salmon in color. The subtle aroma of tart dried cherry brings to mind traditional Rioja producers like Muga. There is an attractive purity on the medium weighted palate where fresh and vibrant flavors of soft strawberry dominate. The finish is soft and lingers delicately. Not thick or viscous like rosé made through the saignée process, this wine's light and ethereal presence is quite attractive. (L ) 93+ points. Chuck Hayward 1999 Gosset Brut "Grand Millésimé" 56% chardonnay, 44% pinot noir. The fruit comes from premier and grand cru vineyards sites. Golden straw in color. Soy, shitake mushrooms and buttered nuts dominate the aromatics of this medium to full bodied cuvée. With some air, aromas of oyster shells come forward. The palate impression is firm and structured with a dry, nutty finish and viscous lemon flavors mingling with nuts and caramel. (L ) 93 points. Chuck Hayward 36

37 PHILIPPONNAT Maureuil-sur-Aÿ In a region steeped with history, Philipponnat can lay claim to having a richer background than most. With roots traced back to 1522, the family has made its home in the southern portion of the Montagne des Reims, an area renowned for top notch pinot noir. For some time, the winery languished under the ownership of the Marie Brizard liquor company, but it was recently purchased by a wine corporation that has Lanson and Bruno Paillard in its portfolio. The first action they took was to lure Charles Philipponnat from his position at Moët & Chandon back to where it all began. The focal point of the hous e is their ownership of Clos des Goisses, an imposing vineyard located on the Marne River. This 13.5 acre site is an incredibly steep, sout h facing vineyard predominantly planted to pinot noir with some chardonnay at the base and the crest of the hill. The perfectly situated site receives exceptional exposure to the sun, allowing for easy ripening of the fruit. Long before Krug made their first single vineyard Champagne from Clos des Mesnil, a single cuvée sourced solely from the Clos des Goisses was being made here. The house makes about 35,000 cases per year with less than a thousand from the walled vineyard. Nevertheless, a lot of Clos des Goisses fruit finds its way into other cuvées. The house style here is full flavored, incorporating a large percentage (25-40%) of reserve wines in the final blend. Given their strength in pinot noir, the wines are balanced with chardonnay sourced from other growers. Minimal use of malolactic fermentation and low dosage at bottling preserves freshness and elegance in the finished wine. Amongst these tasty releases, the bone-dry "Non- Dose" was a highlight of the portfolio. Many zero or non-dosage cuvées can seem stingy and austere, but this had just the right amount of ripe midpalate fruit; a perfect foil for oysters. The house style here is full flavored, incorporating a large percentage of reserve wines in the final blend NV Philipponnat Extra Brut "Non-Dose" 30% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir, 10% pinot meunier. The base wine for this release comes from the 2005 vintage. Deep straw color with good effervescence. Faint hints of bread yeast, toast and roasted nuts waft up in the bouquet. A medium bodied wine, clean flavors of dried fruits, apples and confections co-mingle with citrus and the barest hints of toast and caramel. The pinot noir in this cuvée provides the weight and a bit of firmness to the finish. This wine is bone dry and sees no dosage yet retains a core of fruit to prevent an austere framework. Disgorged 9/ points. -Chuck Hayward NV Philipponnat Brut "Royale Reserve" 30% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir, 10% pinot meunier. This yellow-gold colored wine is initially closed with subtle hints of bread yeast, later yielding to aromas of rich caramel. The palate shows rich and concentrated textures due to the high percentage of pinot noir. Fairly full bodied, the round and fruity midpalate offers intriguing flavors of Bosc pear that continues towards a rich finish. Disgorged 9/ points. -Chuck Hayward NV Philipponnat Brut Rosé "Reserve Rosé" 25% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir, 15% pinot meunier. About 8% of the wine is still pinot noir, generally sourced from the Clos des Goisses vineyard. A darker salmon color combined with subtle hints of dried berries form the initial impression. Deceptively flavorful given the color, the rich strawberry notes are remarkable, while ripe cherries frame the soft and delicate finish. Disgorged 9/ points. Chuck Hayward 37

38 VRANKEN Reims The Vranken name may be new to those who follow Champagne, but that should change in the near future. In terms of sales, it is the second largest Champagne house. Belgian Jean- Francois Vranken purchased Heidsieck Monopole and Pommery from luxury conglomerate LVMH in 1996 and has quickly set about reorganizing the brands in his portfolio. As part of this project, he has made Diamant Bleu, formerly the tête-de-cuvée of Heidsieck Monopole, into its own winery line under the Vranken name. The Diamant Bleu bottling under Heidsieck Monople was most notable for the unique bottle shape designed by Baccarat. Under LVMH, the brand lost its place when the company focused on its more popular luxury bottlings like Dom Perignon and Clicquot s La Grande Dame. Vranken now intends to rejuvenate the Diamant Bleu brand by utilizing some of its large land holdings and considerable marketing efforts to increase the brand profile. And with this line s current style of approachable, full bodied richness with an emphasis on ripe fruit, they are definitely on the right track. NV Vranken Brut "Diamant Bleu" 50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. Forward aromas of ripe lemon, hints of tropical fruit and pastry breads indicate a riper style, while rich textures of fruit and lemon cream dominate the flavors. Round, soft and lush on the finish, a touch of acidity adds some elegance. The fruit, not toast or yeast, is what stands out in this bottling. (L ) 92 points. Chuck Hayward this line s current style of approachable, full bodied richness with an emphasis on ripe fruit 1999 Vranken Brut "Diamant Blanc" 80% chardonnay, 20% pinot noir from grand cru vineyards. Deep straw color with good effervescence. Aromas of toast combine with spicy baked apple on the nose, while on the palate, bread and toast take a back seat to flavors of mango and banana pudding which linger on a feathery soft finish. Mouth filling in texture, the fruit is concentrated and powerful yet has a touch more restraint when compared to the NV Diamant Bleu. (L ) 91+ points. Chuck Hayward 1999 Vranken Brut "Diamant Bleu" 50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir from six grand cru vineyards. An excellent bead with straw gold color. An initially closed nose later reveals hints of toasted muffins, grilled peaches and other orchard fruits. This cuvée is also full bodied with a sophisticated, firmer presence of lemon-drop candy and hints of citrus rind. The finish is firm with notes of caramel. (L ) 93 points. Chuck Hayward 38

39 THE GROWER CHAMPAGNES Unique expressions, singular growers There are literally thousands of growers and small houses that populate the Champagne region. Most are of varying quality and their wines rarely leave the country. But thanks to the efforts of pioneering importers such as Terry Theise and a wine public hungry for new taste experiences, the American market finally has access to a small number of top quality grower-producers. Today, only about 3% of the Champagne exported to the US comes from this category, yet their presence on the lists and shelves of influential restaurants and retailers has grown exponentially. It is among these smaller properties where new trends and approaches to Champagne production and grapegrowing can be seen. Being free from corporate pressures, the small growers can experiment with different methods and styles. The practice of inducing or preventing malolactic fermentation and fermenting in oak are now two popular playgrounds for Champagne producers, while better viticultural practices such as organic and biodynamic farming have gained traction because of the innovative efforts of these small growers. Grower Champagnes can also highlight distinct crus and terroirs of the region's vineyards. Instead of the traditional blending of various sites to create a consistent flavor profile vintage after vintage, many growers have chosen to shine a light on specific villages and vineyards. We are also seeing interesting Champagnes made from just one variety instead of the traditional trio of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. Blanc de blancs are the current rage and there are even Champagnes being produced from arbanne, pinot blanc and petit meslier three of the nine grapes permitted to be grown in the appellation. Unlike the larger houses, non-vintage or NV releases from these smaller properties typically use a single vintage as the base wine and build on that foundation with lesser amounts of wine from other years. Many estates cannot afford to keep large stocks of reserve wines or choose not to do so for stylistic reasons. Accordingly, the vagaries of the vintage are much more apparent in many grower Champagnes and often, in the rush to get their product to market, some wines can be a bit disjointed if they arrive on our shores soon after they are disgorged. Despite all of this, there can be no denying that grower Champagnes have given us a new perspective on what Champagne can be and they have provided larger houses the impetus to innovate and refocus their portfolios. As the US market becomes more familiar with the styles of the best producers and growers, we can expect their footprint to grow larger over the next few years. Growers Reviewed: Agrapart Dosnan + Lepage Gardet Gaston Chiquet Pierre Gimonnet Pierre Péters Rene Geoffroy Vilmart 39

40 AGRAPART Avize Family-run Agrapart, now in its fourthgeneration, has long been a favorite of the San Francisco restaurant scene, with Chez Panisse and Zuni Café pouring their various cuvées as the house bubbly for over thirty years. Like many estates championed by the restaurant cognoscenti, Agrapart follows organic vineyard practices and makes their wine as naturally as possible. This small estate produces only 5,500 cases each vintage miniscule by Champagne standards. Located in Avize in the Côtes des Blancs, home to the best chardonnay in the Champagne region, the family owns 25 acres of vineyards across the area, including a number of grand cru sites. Their preference is to make their top wines from their 60+ year old vineyards, with younger vines designated for Agrapart s less expensive cuvées. Being from Avize, Agrapart s Champagnes are chardonnay-based and they wear that varietal badge proudly, producing elegantly structured wines defined by their minerality and tension while delivering a pure expression of fruit. Most of their base wines are fermented in old wooden casks and undergo malolactic fermentation. Given these techniques, only the best fruit is us ed in order to absorb the wood character while maintaining the freshness and vibrancy. Being from Avize, Agrapart s Champagnes are chardonnay-based and they wear that varietal badge proudly NV Agrapart Brut Blanc de Blancs "Les Sept Crus" 100% chardonnay. The cuvée is a blend of fruit from the seven crus represented by the family's vineyards. 85% grand cru, 15% premier cru. Straw color. The nose showcases subtle aromas of lemon rind, peach pit, and other stone fruit. A classic introduction to the house style, the palate is restrained, compact and focused. Flavors of lemon intermingle with nuts and toast, while the firm, dry finish completes the experience. For fans of a taut, elegant style. 90+ points. Chuck Hayward NV Agrapart Brut Blanc de Blancs "Terroirs" 100% chardonnay from four grand cru villages. Straw color. Aromas of fresh yeast and bread come first, with roasted nuts appearing after some time in glass. The wine starts with a delicate entry and has a touch more weight than "Les Sept Crus", but still retains the focused palate profile. Hints of red berry straddle the citrus flavors, capped off by a firm, nutty finish. 90 points. Chuck Hayward 2004 Agrapart Brut Blanc de Blancs "Mineral" 100% chardonnay. This cuvée is based on the 2006 vintage and has about 30% reserve wine and very low dosage. Yellow straw color. The closed and restrained nose slowly develops hints of fresh yeast and frosted pastry. The palate, however, is much richer, with forward chardonnay fruit combined with crisp, green pear. The style of this medium-full bodied cuvée is more taut and structured with a firm finish that is supported by integrated acids. (L28509) 92 points. Chuck Hayward 40

41 DOSNON + LEPAGE Avirey-Lingey The biography of a Champagne house typically involves a history that goes back centuries and winemakers who have labored for decades. It s therefore somewhat rare to come across an emerging Champagne house such as Dosnon + Lepage, which just released its third vintage and is being exported to the US for the first time. As might be expected from such a new venture, their wines reflect many of the current trends in the region from vineyard to cellar to bottle. They are among many who are working to increase the health of their vines with organic practices, they ferment all of their grapes in barrel, and use low dosages at the end of the process to place primary emphasis on the fruit. To set themselves apart from their storied peers, they have also employed a more contemporary label. Davy Dosnon and Simon-Charles Lepage grew up in the Côte des Bar, an official subregion of the Champagne AOC, closer to Chablis than to the better known growing regions around Epernay and Reims. This area is known for slightly warmer temperatures and a type of chalk soil similar to what is found in Chablis. The resulting wines are fuller bodied and more textural in style. Combined with the aforementioned cellar practices and minimal filtration of the wines, their small portfolio is making waves. NV Dosnon + Lepage Récolte Noire 100% pinot noir. This cuvée is based upon the 2007 vintage and contains about 30% reserve wine. Straw color. The nose offers nutty aromas with hints of baked fruits along with citrus zest and subtle notes of mango, as the wine develops. While cherries and berries dominate the flavors, there is elegance to the medium weighted palate, with its creamy textures and soft acids. The purity of fruit here is quite evident, with rich textures on the finish and hardly any oak presence. Rich without being weighty, this is very quaffable. (L18509) 92 points. Chuck Hayward their wines reflect many of the current trends in the region from vineyard to cellar to bottle NV Dosnon + Lepage Brut "Récolte Rosé" 100% pinot noir. This cuvée is based on the 2007 vintage with about 20% reserve wine. The color is salmon, bordering on pink, with vibrant effervescence. The aromatics emphasize juicy fruit with a ripe kirsch note. The round mid-palate has flavors of maraschino cherry, supporting a long, rich finish with perfectly integrated acids. After being open for a while, the wine takes on Burgundian overtones a bit of earthy, dusty spice to go along with the crushed cherries. This is a forward rosé showing stylized fruit flavors and aromas. (L42509) 93 points. Chuck Hayward NV Dosnon + Lepage Brut "Récolte Blanche" 100% chardonnay. This cuvée is based on the 2006 vintage and has about 30% reserve wine and very low dosage. Yellow straw color. The closed and restrained nose slowly develops hints of fresh yeast and frosted pastry. The palate, however, is much richer, with forward chardonnay fruit combined with crisp, green pear. The style of this medium-full bodied cuvée is more taut and structured with a firm finish that is supported by integrated acids. (L28509) 92 points. Chuck Hayward 41

42 GARDET Chigny-les-Roses With vineyards scattered across the Montagne des Reims, the Champagnes from Gardet have a strong foundation in pinot noir, the grapes that are the backbone of the region's viticulture. Founded at the end of the 19th century by Charles Gardet, the estate floundered while he worked for other properties. It wasn t until the 1920s that his son took over and revived the business. Since then, it has maintained a small but loyal following. The basis for Gardet's wines comes from the seven hectares of vineyards they own in the Montagne de Reims crus of Chigny and Ludes. These grapes are supplemented by long-term contracts from growers who have worked with the estate for generations. The house has rightfully garnered a reputation as a specialist in rosés and pinot based blends, with boldly flavored cuvées that are rich in texture while still retaining a core of fruit. The weight of these wines comes more from extensive use of pinot noir and pinot meunier, than the use of barrels or extended lees contact. Gardet s vintage rosé is one of the more individual styles of Champagne to be encountered in this survey, and is a decadent delight. NV Gardet Brut "Brut Special" 20% of this cuvée is comprised of reserve wines, aged in oak for 1-2 years. The balance comes from the 2004 vintage. Yellow-gold color. The bouquet is quite rich with concentrated fruit aromas, along with ginger, cinnamon and fresh nuts. This gives way to an undeniably rich and mouth-filling palate. A touch straightforward, this weighty bubbly has flavors of hard pear, supported by hints of autolytic qualities, including brioche and nuts. (L ) 91 points. Chuck Hayward The house has rightfully garnered a reputation as a specialist in rosés and pinot based blends NV Gardet Brut Rosé Pale salmon color. Still pinot noir which has spent some time in oak is added to the blend for this rosé. Tangy cherries appear in the bouquet following initial scents of rose and spice. As the wine opens up, the midpalate becomes juicy and round with cherry and dried berry flavors at the core. This medium bodied Champagne has a firm, dry finish that is more masculine in style. (L ) 91 points. Chuck Hayward 2002 Gardet Rosé 50% pinot noir, 50% pinot meunier. Where most rosés gain color from the addition of still wine to the cuvée, all the fruit here is macerated on the skins for a few hours to gain color. The result is a deep, cherry color reminiscent of a Tavel. Intense aromas of dried fruits and spice bring Burgundy to mind. The palate is quite textural with rich, thick deeply fruited flavors that continue on to an effortless finish. This very unique style can easily stand up to the main course at dinner. 93 points. Chuck Hayward 42

43 GASTON CHIQUET Dizy The concept of grower Champagne is relatively new in the history of Champagne. During the 1800s and into the beginning of the last century, growers did not have the financial resources to produce and cellar their wine. Most vineyard plots were small and as farmers, financial security was best achieved by selling their grapes to negociants or Champagne houses. It took a lot of guts to go out on your own back then and in 1919, Gaston Chiquet did just that, becoming one of the first to do so. Since then, the family has slowly added other vineyards to their holdings so that they currently own about 60 acres and make around 17,000 cases of Champagne. The Chiquets have a number of unique storylines being told in their vineyards. The premier crus of Dizy and Hautvillers are known for producing top quality pinot meunier and the family has large plantings of this rather unfashionable grape. For the basic non-vintage blends, the meunier component is higher than what you will find in other examples. In the grand cru site at Aÿ, known as one of the top locales for growing pinot noir, the family grows chardonnay that is used for their blanc de blancs. The Champagnes of Chiquet are very approachable, forward and ready to drink. The use of malolactic fermentation gives their wines roundness, while they avoid the use of oak. These decisions account for the quality of Chiquet's Blanc de Blancs, which stand out due to their purity of fruit and layers of flavors. In fact, the 2000 in magnum was probably the highlight in Terry Theise's portfolio tasting and should not be missed. NV Gaston Chiquet Brut "Tradition" 35% chardonnay, 45% pinot meunier, 20% pinot noir. The 2006 vintage comprises 80% of this disgorgement with the remainder coming from Very pale color. The nose displays fairly pronounced aromas of fresh yeast and toast. The body here is of medium weight with a roasted quality straddling flavors of apple and pear. This has noticeable personality with a finish that ends firmly with hints of caramel. 91+ points. Chuck Hayward NV Gaston Chiquet Brut "Cuvée de Reserve" 33% chardonnay, 33% pinot meunier, 34 % pinot noir. This cuvée is composed of equal proportions of vintages 2000 through Compared to Chiquet's basic cuvée, this shows more pronounced aromas of toast and honey, along with almond cream. Those firm notes of wood and toast come through on the palate and support a clean and bright core of citrus infused fruit. The finish is compact and firm and also shows those toasty influences. (Disgorged 11/08) 91 points. Chuck Hayward NV Gaston Chiquet Brut Blanc de Blancs d'aÿ 100% chardonnay from the 2006 vintage. This cuvée is sourced entirely from the estate's holdings in the grand cru village of Aÿ, one of the top sites for pinot noir on the Montagne de Reims. Pale straw color, this wine offers yeast, citrus and hints of mushroom on the nose. The palate showcases unique flavors of fresh pie crust, baked apple and hints of caramel. There is some richness in this cuvée but lightness in the finish. (Disgorged 8/09) 92 points. Chuck Hayward 2000 Gaston Chiquet Brut "Special Club" This seems to me a more rustic style of Champagne with a funky style of yeast apparent in the bouquet. This follows onto the palate where mushroomy yeast flavors mingle with caramel and oak. A bit old school. (Disgorged 7/09) 89 points. Chuck Hayward 2002 Gaston Chiquet Brut "Millésimé" Very pale straw color. The reticent nose does not prepare you for the entry, which quickly builds towards a crescendo of flavors and texture. The palate has a sponge-cake texture with complex layers of balanced, integrated flavors. Citrus and rice crackers are just part of a full bodied wine leading towards a very complex finish. (Disgorged 7/09) 93+ points. Chuck Hayward 2000 Gaston Chiquet Brut Blanc de Blancs d'aÿ 100% chardonnay. A pure, powerful mélange of apple and citrus fruit wafts from the glass, with undertones of nuts. This complex nose is transported clearly to the palate where the purity of ripe apple, fresh nuts, nutmeg and cinnamon are defined and intense. This wine has nice viscosity and texture with new flavors constantly revealing themselves. Top-notch Champagne. Tasted from magnum. 95 points. Chuck Hayward 43

44 PIERRE GIMONNET Cuis With a little over 20,000 cases made per year, Pierre Gimonnet is the largest producer in Terry Theise's portfolio of grower Champagnes. While this is peanuts compared to the production of the grandes marques, Gimonnet has managed to achieve broad brand awareness among Champagne enthusiasts in the States. Like many older grower Champagne firms, the Gimonnets became wine producers when the Champagne market collapsed between 1910 and It was during this time that lack of demand for fruit from the big houses left grape growers stuck without any buyers. Gimonnet, joined by the likes of Pierre Péters and Gaston Chiquet, turned to wine production, selling their wines locally and in Paris in order to make ends meet. Located in the Côtes des Blancs, the Gimonnet family has extensive holdings among the grand crus of Cramant, Chouilly and Oger. However, the foundation of their vineyards lies in the village of Cuis, a premier cru site that many critics believe should be elevated to grand cru status. There are no grand cru bottlings to be had since the estate prides itself on blending chardonnay from all the vineyards. The style here highlights the freshness of the chardonnay grape, leaving oak and malolactic fermentation out of the equation Pierre Gimonnet Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut "Oenophile" 100% chardonnay. A blend of fruit from the grand cru sites of Cramant and Chouilly with 20% from the family's premier cru holdings in Cuis. A closed nose shows hints of yeast and fresh bread. This bone dry non-dosage cuvée has fresh, focused and pristine fruit. Bright, sprightly flavors of citrus are the core of this wine, tapering towards a long, elegant finish. (Disgorged 1/10) 93+ points. Chuck Hayward Gimonnet has managed to achieve broad brand awareness among Champagne enthusiasts in the States NV Pierre Gimonnet Brut Blanc de Blancs "Cuvee Reserve" 100% chardonnay. 74% of this cuvée is from the 2007 harvest with the reserve wine composed of the 3 previous vintages. Pale straw color. The high-toned and bright expression of citrus on the nose is clean and focused. Although there is a sense of elegance in the way this glides across the palate, there are textural elements of ripe citrus and hard lemon candy that gives the wine a sense of weight without being austere. Finishes with a hint of woodsy caramel. 91 points. Chuck Hayward 2005 Pierre Gimonnet Brut "Cuvee Gastronome" 100% chardonnay. 72% from grand cru sites. Pale straw color. There is a strong presence of brandy in this bottling, most likely from a fresh dosage. Medium weighted on the palate, there are textural components to the bright lemon flavors. The finish is soft and light and fades away gently. (Disgorged 1/10) 89 points. Chuck Hayward 2004 Pierre Gimonnet Brut Blanc de Blancs "Fleuron" 100% chardonnay. From 80% grand cru sites. This cuvée has a pale straw color along with scents of toast and fresh baked bread. There is a sense of delicacy to the intriguing berry and strawberry flavors that are precise and focused on the palate. Just barely of medium weight, the wine closes softly with elegance. (Disgorged 1/10) 92+ points. Chuck Hayward 44

45 PIERRE PÉTERS Le Mesnil-sur-Oger The Péters family has had connections to the vineyards and the town of Le Mesnil in the Côtes des Blancs since Proud producers of blanc de blancs Champagnes, the first wines were released in 1919 and vineyard expansion followed shortly thereafter. Today's holdings of roughly 45 acres are all planted to chardonnay and about 14,000 cases are produced from the grand crus of Avize, Le Mesnil, Cramant and Oger. The style of the house accentuates the minerality and delicacy of the fruit. In order to preserve those qualities, Pierre Péters avoids the use of oak for fermentation or aging. One of the unique stories behind Pierre Péters is "Les Chétillons," their vineyard holding in the Le Mesnil grand cru. Over the years, it became clear to the family that this lieu-dit produced the best fruit and therefore deserved special handling. Starting in 1971, the estate released their "Cuvée Speciale," one of the first Champagnes ever made based solely on the fruit from one lieu-dit parcel. However, few knew about the vineyard specification until a few years ago, when the winery changed the label to "Cuvée Speciale-Les Chétillons". NV Pierre Péters Brut Blanc de Blancs "Cuvée Reserve" 100% chardonnay. The core of this cuvée is from the 2007 harvest. Pale straw color. This release offers classic aromas of lemon rind that follow through on the palate but also carries some interesting pepper spice that combines with baked bread on the firm finish. This is currently a bit of a restrained wine with just a hint of austerity which will be a perfect foil for oysters or lighter, more delicate foods. (Disgorged 9/09) 90+ points. Chuck Hayward 2002 Pierre Péters Brut "Cuvée Speciale-Les Chétillons" 100% chardonnay. This cuvée comes from the "Les Chétillons" lieu-dit in the cru of Le Mesnil. The current bottling is a bit disjointed as of this tasting, with strong aromas of burnt toast and brandy leaping out of the glass. This quality also appears on the back palate where caramel and wood flavors kick in. With some air, hints of citrus fruit emerge. Perhaps this disgorgement is so fresh that the dosage hasn't had a chance to marry with the wine to create a more harmonious drinking experience. Some time under cork should help. 89 points. Chuck Hayward The style of the house accentuates the minerality and delicacy of the fruit 45

46 RENÉ GEOFFROY Cumières The south-facing hills of the Vallée de la Marne, one of the five major subregions in Champagne, are located a short distance from Epernay, the area's second most important city. This is the home to both pinot noir and the less heralded pinot meunier varieties, and it is quite easy for the vineyards here to ripen fully. René Geoffroy and his son Jean- Baptiste own about 32 acres here planted predominantly to red grapes, with about 20% of their vines in chardonnay. Their production of about 11,000 cases makes them one of Terry Theise's larger producers. Most of Geoffroy's vines are planted in the well-regarded premier cru villages of Cumières and Hautvillers. Given the high proportion of red grapes grown by the family, it is no wonder that oak fermentation has been part of the winemaking process for generations. The wines do not go through malolactic so as to preserve the acidity of the fruit grown in these warmer crus. Compared to the wines of Vilmart, Geoffroy's wines seem slightly less oaky. Nevertheless, the wood component is strong, so a good decant may be warranted. NV René Geoffroy Brut Expression" 10% chardonnay, 50% pinot meunier, 40% pinot noir. 70% of the cuvée comes from the 2007 vintage with 2006 comprising the remainder. Subtle aromas of fresh lemon or citrus blossom along with pears and a touch of yeast straddle a restrained, elegantly structured bubbly that reflects this bouquet. Vibrant and clean flavors of citrus are focused with just a hint of ripe texture that finishes delicately. (Disgorged 2/10) 91 points. Chuck Hayward The wines do not go through malolactic so as to preserve the acidity of the fruit grown in these warmer crus NV René Geoffroy Brut "Empriente" 19% chardonnay, 12% pinot meunier, 69% pinot noir. About two-thirds of this cuvée was barrel fermented. As compared to the basic non -vintage blend, there are much more expressive wood and caramel notes on the bouquet. Hints of yeast along with some stone fruit aromas appear later. The oak/caramel/wood component is strong and gains weight towards the back palate. A unique style, this could probably use some time under cork to allow the fruit component to fully reveal itself. (Disgorged 11/09) 89+ points. Chuck Hayward 2002 René Geoffroy Extra Brut 70% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir. All the fruit for this cuvée was barrel fermented. A pale straw color, the body of this blend is mediumfull to full bodied. Displays exotic flavors of cinnamon, nutmeg and apple pie from the barrel fermentation, along with some pronounced caramel notes at the finish. Might need a little time under cork to come together. (Disgorged 2/10) 91+ points. Chuck Hayward 46