Chilli Lemon Cauliflower

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1 Chilli Lemon Cauliflower It s the simple pleasures in life I ve always appreciated the most; chapattis with mango pickle, paratha dipped in raita and

2 from time to time, maybe peanut butter and banana sandwiches (let s keep that one between us). From sitting on a Mombasa beach nibbling on maize, smothered with lemon and red chilli powder, to scoffing cassava fries doused in citrus hot sauce in university halls, these flavours are an integral part of my food memories. I think it reason this combination works so well is because the chilli heat is mellowed out with the sharp acidity of fragrant lemon. Indeed, it s not only Indian and East African dishes which take full advantage of this mouth-watering duo just think about your favourite Mexican salsas and Thai salads made with the native lime. I never remove seeds or membrane from fresh chillies I don t see the point. However, if you prefer to remove them for a mild flavour then remember to adjust your use of lemon accordingly. A general rule of thumb is that the hotter the chilli, the more the lemon will be able to stand up to it. If your chillies are milder, add less lemon to ensure its flavour doesn t become overpowering. If, by chance it does, a pinch of sugar should help. For a speedy side or snack, this sautéed cauliflower tossed with fresh green chillies, mustard seeds, turmeric and lemon juice is the perfect dish. Serve it alone, in a lunchtime wrap with falafel and yogurt, or as part of a larger meal with your favourite curries and Indian breads. Tip: in most dishes, a pinch of sugar and salt balance the chilli and lemon combination perfectly.

3 Chilli and Lemon Cauliflower (Serves 2-4) Ingredients

4 500g cauliflower, broken into bite-sized florets and boiled until al dente 1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp asafoetida ½ tsp turmeric 3 green chillies, sliced finely (or to taste) Juice of ½ lemon ½ tsp sugar ½ tsp salt or to taste Method 1. Heat the oil in a non-stick pan and add the mustard seeds. Once the mustard seeds have popped, add the asafoetida, turmeric, chillies, sugar and salt. 2. Quickly add in the parboiled cauliflower and sauté on a high heat for 4-5 minutes or until tender. Keep them moving to avoid the spices from burning. 3. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and garnish with chopped coriander. Cardamom Tofu Curry

5 I stuffed myself with Palak Paneer last night. I feel terrible about it and actually had a bit of trouble sleeping. I think it s time to give that beautiful cheese a break (at least for a little while, anyway).

6 On The Rebound What s a girl to do when she s decided to cut the one true love out of her life? Then it dawned on me; I m going to replace paneer with something similar, something I won t feel as guilty about. Hi tofu, remember me? We used to have a healthy relationship before I lost all my inhibitions to full-fat Indian cottage cheese. Simple Infusions If you ever asked me what my favourite spice was, I think I d probably cry. There are so many to choose from and limitless possibilities in terms of creating breathtaking new flavours. Cardamom is one of those spices that s never really at the forefront of a curry. Well let me tell you something, it really should be given the chance. A combination of both green and black cardamoms impart musky flavours that are so characteristic of the spice, to a simple curry. They are the shining stars of this dish. Somewhat unconventionally, I adopted the western method of infusing single cream with the spices to get out of them, the most subtle flavours possible. I then strained the lightly crushed spices out of the cream with a tea strainer, leaving behind a perfectly smooth cardamom-scented cream to add to my luxurious tomato sauce. Balance Everyone knows tofu can t be classed as real food unless it s drowned in something mouth-wateringly flavourful (sorry, it s true). In this curry, intense black cardamoms impart a smoky base flavour to hold up the fragrant menthol notes of the more liberally used green cardamoms. Equilibrium. Is. Everything. I thought about adding vegetables to this but why ruin a

7 perfectly balanced dish with something that would only be there for the sake of it. Forget it; all this mild, creamy, tangy tofu curry needs is the crunch of finely sliced, sweet spring onions to bring it to life. You won t even miss the paneer.

8 Cardamom Tofu Curry (Serves 4)

9 Ingredients 600g firm tofu, pressed to remove water and deep fried until golden 2 tbsp sunflower oil 1 small onion, chopped very finely 1 clove garlic, minced 2 green chillies, chopped finely -inch piece ginger, minced 4 tbsp concentrated tomato paste 250ml water 1 tsp garam masala 2 tsp salt 1 ½ tsp sugar 2 spring onions, trimmed and sliced finely at an angle 4 tbsp chopped fresh coriander For the cream infusion: 300ml single cream 9 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed 2 black cardamom pods, lightly crushed 1 dried red Kashmiri chilli, lightly crushed Method 1. For the cream infusion, pour the single cream into a small saucepan and add the lightly crushed green and black cardamom pods and Kashmiri chilli. Gently bring the mixture to the boil and then remove from the heat. Allow to cool completely and then pass through a tea strainer to remove the cardamoms and chilli. Set the infused cream aside. 2. Heat the oil in a large non-stick saucepan and add the onions, chilli, garlic and ginger. Sauté until aromatic, about five minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for a further 4 minutes, stirring all the time. Pour in 250ml hot water, garam masala, salt and sugar and stir through. Cover with a tight-

10 fitting lid and cook on a medium heat for ten minutes, stirring occasionally. 3. Remove the lid from the pan and quickly whisk in the infused cream mixture, ensuring it does not separate. Add the tofu, spring onions and chopped coriander. Stir for a final time and serve hot with pilau rice and naan. Dudhi Na Muthiya (Steamed Bottlegourd Dumplings) The prospect of an Indian breakfast is sometimes just the kick I need to pull myself from my cosy bed. This usually only ever takes place on weekends or during time-off from the day job, so it s always a welcome treat. Along with a spicy breakfast, there s nothing more satisfying than using up leftovers. This recipe for Dudhi Na Muthyia hits both of those spots. They re made using grated bottlegourd (doodhi/lauki), cold leftover rice, chickpea flour and a medley of subtle spices. The dumplings are then formed into log-shapes and gently steamed to lock in plenty of flavour and moisture. Once cooled, the cooked muthiya are quickly sautéed with sesame seeds and curry leaves to add that final dimension

11 of flavour and a gorgeously crisp, golden texture. So many people prefer them straight from the steamer without sautéing them first perhaps a consequence of impatience more than anything else. I have been known to finish them off before I actually finish off the recipe, not that I should actually be admitting to this. I add coarse semolina to these steamed dumplings as it gives them a softer texture in the middle and once they re sautéed, a better crisp on the outside. Don t have bottlegourd? Muthiya taste just as good when they re made with courgettes, cabbage, carrots or even fenugreek. Use your imagination and don t be afraid to play with your food. My favourite way of enjoying muthiya is with a steaming cuppa sweet masala chai and absolutely nothing else. Dudhi Na Muthiya Serves 4-6

12 For the dumplings: 1 bottlegourd, grated (about 400g) 260g chickpea flour 1 ½ tbsp coarse semolina 400g cold cooked rice or khichdi 140g plain flour 4 green chillies, minced (or to taste) 2 ½ tsp salt (or to taste) 1 tsp turmeric 90ml oil, plus more for greasing 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 ½ tsp sugar Juice of ½ lemon ½ tsp baking powder ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda To temper: 2 tbsp oil 1 tsp mustard seeds 1 tbsp sesame seeds 6-8 curry leaves ¼ tsp asafoetida 1 tbsp chopped coriander to garnish Method 1. In a large, deep pan (one that comes with a steaming basket), boil -2L water. Grease the basket with 1 tbsp oil and pop it into the pan so it suspends above the water but doesn t touch it. 2. Take for the release mixture a large mixing bowl and combine all of the ingredients dumplings. Do not add water as the bottlegourd will plenty as you mix. Keep going, gently squeezing the until you get a batter. 3. One by one, roll into seven logs and place them into the

13 steaming basket. You may need to do them in two batches if your steamer is small. Place a lid on and simmer on a medium heat for minutes or until a skewer poked into the middle of one comes out clean. Remove the basket from the steamer and allow to cool completely. 4. Remove the logs from the steaming basket and cut each log into 2cm pieces. Set aside. 5. To temper the spices and sauté the muthia: in a large nonstick pan, heat the oil and add the mustard seeds. Wait for them to pop, then add the sesame seeds, curry leaves and asafoetida. Add the dumplings and sauté on a high heat for 5 minutes or so, turning every so often make sure you don t break them when turning. When golden, remove from the heat and garnish with chopped coriander. Serve hot. Note: Dudhi Na Muthiya can be kept in the fridge for up to three days, but I doubt these will last that long.

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