The Northern Rhône. Review Round-Up January-February 2006 Issue 124

Transcription

1 The Northern Rhône Review Round-Up January-February 2006 Issue 124 Maison Chapoutier: You had to wait in order to get full maturity and proper acidity in 2003, director Pierre-Henri Morel told me."only by waiting out the heat was acidity able to climb back and were we able to make wines with real backbone."indeed, Chapoutier's red wines from the north are firmly structured and fresh, and for the most part belie the heat of the vintage.the 2004 white wines, as at most of the top addresses in the north, were highly successful, with impressive complexity and balance.(paterno Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL) 2004 Chapoutier St Joseph Les Deschants Blanc: 100% marsanne, like all the Chapoutier Northern Rhone white wines with the exception of the Condrieu Bright straw color. Vibrant aromas of dried apple, quinine and tarragon, lifted by dusty rose and violet. Fresh and crisp on the palate, the dried orchard fruit notes repeating Chapoutier Crozes Hermitage Les Meysonniers Blanc: Light gold. Rich, honeyed aromas of bitter quinine, apple skin and minerals. Pliant and round, showing a ripe flavor profile and a chewy texture that persists through the finish Chapoutier Condrieu: Bright, pale yellow. Textbook viognier aromas of peach, apricot, pear and violet. This is weighty and supple, with a note of ripe pear building with air. Fragrant, classic Condrieu that is delicious right now Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante Alouette: Pale gold. Waxy lanolin notes and honeyed nuts on the nose; reminded me of a Loire Valley chenin blanc. The nutty quality carries onto the palate, which features dried apple and pear fruit. Quite thick, even oily in texture, with a persistent finish Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granits Blanc: Bright straw color. Dusty aromas of pear skin, musky earth, talc and minerals. Quite firm, focused and dry, with intriguing wild herb and licorice flavors adding complexity to the fruit notes of quince and dried apple. Finishes with a note of toasted nuts. 89-

2 2004 Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Cuvee de l'oree: Light gold color. Explosively aromatic nose offers floral honey, passion fruit, lichee and ripe plantain. Initially quite oily and thick on the palate, but quickly picked up a vibrant mineral tone that enlivened the exotic, almost tropical flavors. Finishes with superb lift and length. A dense powerhouse of a white with uncanny energy and focus Points 2004 Chapoutier Ermitage Les Meal Blanc: Light yellow color. Dusty, stony aromas of dried pear, peach skin, marzipan, minerals and magnolia. Firm and juicy on the palate, with an intense mineral character and notes of bitter quinine, yellow apple and jasmine tea. Finishes youthful and very long, with sharply focused mineral notes dusting the palate. This is by far the least evolved of the Chapoutier single-site Hermitage blancs Points 2004 Chapoutier Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc: Bright straw color. Remarkably expressive aromas reminded me of a grand cru white Burgundy from Puligny-Montrachet: smoky, mineral-laced scents of ripe pear, yellow plum, ruby red grapefruit, tangerine, buttered toast, hazelnut and licorice. At once weighty and remarkably silky, given energy and grip by bright acidity. The kaleidoscopic aromatic profile continues on the palate, where the bright mineral tones focus the flavors of pear, ripe apple, floral honey and buttery brioche. The finish simply won't quit Points 2003 Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape La Bernardine: Light red color. Floral, crisp aromas of bright red berries and cherry, accented by dried herbs. A midweight wine with essentially gentle red berry flavors that linger on the finish Chapoutier Crozes Hermitage Les Meysonniers: Deep red. Fresh aromas of blackberry, cassis and sweet tobacco. Lush and round, with sweet, openknit dark berry flavors. The gentle tannins won't get in the way of enjoying this right now Chapoutier Cornas: Dark red. Wild, earthy aromas of dark plum, licorice, tobacco and graphite. The wine's deep dark cherry fruit and gamey, meaty nuances are powerful and sauvage Classic Cornas, finishing broad and chunky Chapoutier Cote Rotie Les Becasses: Medium red color. Spicy, vibrant aromas of red berries and graphite lifted by mineral tones. Fresh in the mouth, especially for the vintage, with a floral nuance adding interest. Finishes plump, juicy and persistent Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne: Bright red. Sweet red berries dominate the nose, with a note of raspberry preserves building and expanding with air. A fruit bomb of an Hermitage, showing a lush texture and no meaty qualities. The sweet, silky finish offers noteworthy length.

3 2003 Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois: Light red. Wild aromas of charred meat and garrigue add complexity to the sweet notes of raspberry preserves, candied cherry, red plum and subtle white pepper. Explosively fruity Chateauneuf du Pape with no rough edges to its lush strawberry and candied raspberry flavors. Finishes with excellent length Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac: Dark red color. Explosive, assertive nose combines bitter cherry, licorice, wild herbs, white pepper and sweet tobacco. Extremely rich and thick on the palate, with outstanding depth of red fruit flavor and a persistent, sappy sweetness on the very long finish. 93 Points 2003 Chapoutier Crozes Hermitage Les Varonnieres: Dark red. Meaty, ripe aromas of dark plum compote, chocolate and roasted coffee. Large-scaled and thick, with a density and weight that are almost too much. Finishes with deep notes of dark chocolate and espresso. Very 2003 in style, and as formidable as this is in size and weight, I would like to have seen more energy and precision Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granits: Bright purple. Singular pungent, smoky, aromas of peaty Islay whisky, licorice, cherry cola, cassis and graphite. Distinctly soil-driven Saint-Joseph, with spicy, sweet cherry and dark plum flavors that build impressively and put on weight in the glass. Fleshier and far less severe than this wine can be in less ripe years Chapoutier Cote Rotie Cuvee La Mordoree: Deep red. Vibrant scents of raspberry, redcurrant and strawberry jam, tinged by a note of smoked meat. On the palate, nervy acidity lifts and sharpens the impressively concentrated red berry flavors. A beautifully textured Cote-Rotie that shows excellent verve for the vintage. 93 Points 2003 Chapoutier Ermitage Les Greffieux: Deep red. Ripe and full on the nose but with precision and lift to the blackberry, cassis and licoricescented aromas. Full, round and thick on the palate, with powerful flavors of sweet dark berries complemented by mocha, black pepper and dark chocolate. A subtle suggestion of graphite creeps in on the long, supple finish. 92 Points 2003 Chapoutier Hermitage Le Meal: Red-ruby color. Rich, dense and powerful on the nose, with aromas of mineral-laced cassis and smoky tobacco. Deep, velvety and lush, but with compelling focus and precision to the flavors of cherry compote, redcurrant and cassis. Finishes suave, silky and unflagging, with serious heft and weight. 94 Points

4 2003 Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon: Bright, deep red. Spicy, vibrant and tangy nose offers redcurrant, wild strawberry and minerally raspberry tones. Impressively fresh and nervy on the palate, with lift and thrust to the exuberant red fruit tones. As this opens in the glass, the fruit tones take a darker turn toward blackberry and cassis, also picking up notes of graphite and licorice. The deeply concentrated, spicy and wonderfully long, sweet finish is framed by huge but remarkably integrated tannins. 95 Points 2003 Chapoutier Hermitage L'Ermite: Medium ruby. Dense, powerful, imploded aromas of blackberry, creme de cassis, coffee liqueur, pipe tobacco and smoked meat. The texture of this wine is impossibly lush and velvety, and the superconcentrated, sweet essence-of-dark-berry flavors are also incredibly lively. Wonderfully sweet, lush and endless on the finish. You'd need a squeegee to remove this from your palate. 97 Points Domaine Jean-Louis Chave: "Two thousand four is a very, very good year for white Hermitage but only the most serious producers are going to be able to make great reds," said Jean-LouisChave.When I expressed surprise at this statement, he explained:"after 2003, a year when the vines suffered tremendously, they were too tired to immediately bounce back to full vigor in 2004."In 2003, the Chaves made what Jean-Louis called "the type of white wine that you make once in your lifetime" and he still seems to be in shock over the style of the red wine produced in that vintage, which he says has no precedent at this address.(erin Cannon Imports, Manhasset, NY; Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH) 2004 Domaine J. L. Chave Hermitage Blanc: I tasted samples from three lieux-dit Pale yellow color. Rich, concentrated aromas of white cherry, quince, apple, pear, tangerine, minerals and licorice. Oily and rich in texture, with round, ripe orchard and tropical fruits offering superb concentration. This has excellent depth of flavor and wonderful backbone and lift to keep things focused. "The problem with too much richness is the weight that comes with it," noted Jean-Louis, who is much more concerned about complexity and balance Points 2003 Domaine J. L. Chave Hermitage Blanc : The white wines in 2003 can either be magic or very bad," said Jean-Louis before he poured this elixir. Pale gold. Dusty and spicy on the nose, with intense licorice, orange peel and mineral tones. Absolutely huge on the palate, with an oily, viscous texture that is shocking. The extract here is almost painful and the richness of flavor utterly compelling. (This clocked in at 16.5% alcohol, with less than 2 grams per liter of acidity.) Thick, buttery flavors of orchard fruits and orange bitters, complicated by minerals and smoke. The floral, honeyed finish won't let up. "You need the type of food your doctor won't let you eat," replied Jean-Louis when I asked him what he would pair this with. "Escoffier cuisine, textured foods, old-style haute cuisine like sauce Nantua, food that needs wine to cut through it. 97 Points

5 2004 Domaine J. L. Chave Hermitage: Tasted from four lieux-dit Inky red. High-pitched, floral aromas of bitter cherry, exotic blood orange, ripe plum, smoked meat, dark chocolate and licorice pastille. Then surprisingly elegant and minerally on the palate ("that's because of the Bessards, which makes us what we are", with great lift and focus to the powerful fruit tones. Still, this is distinctly lush, round and weighty, with impressive concentration and amazingly long, mouth-coating flavors of dark cherry and Asian spices Points 2003 Domaine J. L. Chave Hermitage: "Now we take the monster out of his cage," Jean-Louis warned me before pouring this. Inky, almost black in color. Elemental, hugely concentrated and powerful on the nose, which slowly unveils aromas of dark cherry liqueur, blackberry, cassis, espresso and a deep note of sweet tobacco. Impossibly rich and dense on the palate (the yields in 2003 were off by two-thirds), showing myriad dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors, with a suggestion of tapenade and an intense licorice quality. Remarkably, this takes on a mineral tone on the finish, which has the effect of further drawing out the amazingly powerful finish. 98 Points 2003 Domaine J. L. Chave Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin: This was resting in a single small stainless-steel tank, and was set for bottling in late November Deep, bright ruby. Imploded nose exudes powerful scents of cassis, blackberry and chocolate liqueur. Then thick, supple and absolutely seamless in the mouth, with virtually no tannins apparent today. The finish is remarkably fresh for the extraordinary size and power of this Hermitage. "If this could have added anything to the Hermitage, we'd have put it in, but it couldn't," explained Jean-Louis, adding that these are the only conditions under which the family makes the special Cathelin bottling Points 2004 Domaine J. L. Chave St. Joseph: Now, back to the real world. said Jean-Louis. Deep red color. Sweet, expressive red berry nose with notes of graphite and licorice. Supple on the palate, with good energy provided by sound acids. The raspberry and wild strawberry flavors are complicated by a note of graphite. A wonderfully elegant, precise St. Joseph that offers concentration without undue weight. Domaine Clusel-Roch: This completely biologique estate has been producing consistently elegant versions of Cote-Rotie in recent years, and the current line-up, which I tasted with Brigitte Roch, promises to be their most successful yet.the 2004s here are fragrant and silky, with almost Burgundian texture.in 2003, the wines are atypically lush, but while undeniably ripe (and higher in alcohol than is typical at this estate), show no roasted or pruney qualities.(daniel Johnnes Wines, New York, NY) 2004 Domaine Clusel Roch Cote Rotie: Deep red. Highly aromatic nose offers a pungently floral impression of red berries and roses that reminded me of serious red Burgundy. At once fat and juicy on the palate, with a round texture and deep flavors of fresh cherry and wild strawberry. Finishes sappy, long, sweet and very gently tannic Points

6 2004 Domaine Clusel Roch Cote Rotie Les Grandes Places: Medium red. Brooding dark berry and cherry aromas, with hints of licorice, graphite and sweet tobacco. Dense and ripe, with concentrated blackberry and licorice flavors ("the impression of extract is because this is all petite serine," noted Roch). Finishes with sappy, almost pitch-like dark fruit tones and building tannins Points 2003 Domaine Clusel Roch Cote Rotie: Medium ruby. Complex, floral bouquet of blackberry, magnolia, violet, vanilla, clove, pipe tobacco and walnut. Juicy and pliant on the palate, with silky flavors hinting at dark berries and cherry. Finishes fresh, spicy and long, with firm but well-knit tannins Domaine Clusel Roch Cote Rotie Les Grandes Places: Dark ruby color. Intensely oaky nose offers strong scents of creme de mure vanilla, cinnamon and candied licorice. Thick and rich in the mouth, showing plum jam and blackberry liqueur flavors tinged by sweet new oak. This shows the hot vintage character more than the estate's basic bottling. Long and powerful on the finish, with thick, serious tannins. Domaine Eric & Joël Durand: The Durand brothers make lush, fruit-driven wines in a modern vein but they are also concerned with preserving vibrancy.their top cuvees, for example, are usually more understated than the basic bottlings."we don't want the taste of wood in the tete de cuvee," says Eric.As for a general house style, he adds:"we want the flavor of syrah and the texture of pinot; we don't want hard or dry wines.we seek maximum maturity so that the wines will be supple and round."the 2004 vintage enabled the Durands to make wines that Eric described as "concentrated and with very good acids,"while their 2003s are in the hugely ripe, weighty style of the earlier vintage.(weygandt-metzler Importing, Unionville, PA) 2004 Domaine Joel and Eric Durand Saint Joseph: Deep red. Suave aromas of blueberry and tangy rhubarb, with a subtle peppery nuance. Tangy red fruit flavors are lively and focused. Finishes fresh and youthfully acidic, with fine-grained tannins Domaine Joel and Eric Durand Saint-Joseph Lautaret: Dark red. Bright, open-knit aromas of blackberry jam and cassis. Quite sweet and lush in the mouth, with sweet dark berry flavors and medium weight. Builds nicely on the back end, finishing with strong notes of berries, minerals and mocha Domaine Joel and Eric Durand Cornas Premices: Bright purple. Full-blown dark berry and plum aromas, with subtle spice tones. A round, juicy fruit bomb with no sign of anything gamey or wild. Round and silky on the finish. This new cuvee is made to drink on the young side. 86-

7 2004 Domaine Joel and Eric Durand Cornas: Dark red color. Exotic, smoky nose features ripe red berries and cherry along with dense, meaty tones. Then lively and fresh in the mouth, with tangy acidity providing good energy. Finishes with bright wild strawberry character and a hint of licorice.\ Domaine Joel and Eric Durand Cornas Impreinte: Medium ruby. Intensely spicy aromas of blackberry, blueberry and cracked pepper. This has lovely texture, with highly concentrated dark berry flavors and suave, silky tannins. Finishes very long and lush. This bottling was only made once before, in Points 2003 Domaine Joel and Eric Durand Saint Joseph Les Coteaux: Inky purple. Roasted aromas of plum jam, dark chocolate and coffee. Superripe and dense, with deep flavors of blackberry and cassis accented by tobacco. Strongly marked by the vintage. Finishes with serious tannins and a pronounced roasted quality Domaine Joel and Eric Durand Cornas: Dense ruby color. Assertive, very ripe nose displays jammy blackberry, plum and cherry, with notes of espresso and chocolate. Dense and thick in the mouth, with deeply concentrated blackberry flavor and a powerful tannic structure. The roasted aspect repeats on the long, viscous finish Domaine Joel and Eric Durand Saint-Joseph Lautaret: Inky purple. Primary aromas of crushed blackberry, bitter chocolate and espresso. A huge Saint- Joseph, with mouthfilling dark berry and chocolate flavors accented by exotic spices. Then almost magically vibrant on the finish, with subtle mineral tones sneaking in. This carries 15% alcohol but is shockingly elegant and precise. Domaine Bernard Faurie: The gentle personality of Bernard Faurie is reflected in his wines, which are precise, understated examples of the traditional school.words like finesse, elegance and balance recur in his description of his various cuvees and he is obviously pleased with the results of 2004.Faurie describes these wines as "not ample, not grand, but elegant, balanced, graceful and very fine."the 2003s here have turned out very well too, albeit in a way that reflects the extreme conditions of the vintage.(robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY) 2004 Domaine Bernard Faurie Saint Joseph: Medium red color. Suave, minerally aromas of wild strawberry, graphite, dried herbs and fresh tobacco. Fresh and crisp on the palate, with a bright note of rhubarb joining the strawberry flavors. An elegant midweight, finishing with a bright floral note. 88-

8 2004 Domaine Bernard Faurie Hermitage: From Greffieux: Bright aromas and flavors of red berries complicated by minerals. From a blend of Bessards, Greffieux and Meal: Reserved on the nose. Closed but obviously dense and concentrated, with dark berry and cherry flavors. Finishes with solid tannins. From Meal alone: More sauvage aromas of wild berries and smoked meat. Surprisingly fresh on the palate, thanks to juicy acidity Points 2003 Domaine Bernard Faurie Saint Joseph: Deep red. Deeply ripe aromas of blackberry, flowers and smoke. Densely packed and powerful, with exotic notes of tobacco and Asian spices. Firmly tannic and persistent on the finish Domaine Bernard Faurie Hermitage: Dark ruby. Powerful aromas of roasted red berries and plum jam, with a hint of prune. Then chewy but vibrant in the mouth, with building flavors of fresh raspberry and cherry. Very concentrated and long, finishing with strong tannins and lingering red berries. 93 Points Domaine Alain Graillot: This continues to be a reliable address for fresh, food-friendly wines that drink very well in their youth but have proven to be surprisingly durable in the cellar.the 2004s are typically lively here while the 2003s are wines of serious depth and power.i tasted with Alain Graillot's son Maxime, who has begun his own domain and made a very pretty 2004 Crozes-Hermitage."After 2002 and 2003, 2004 was very exciting," he told me."the wines are not hugely concentrated but they are very Burgundian in style, with fine tannins.we picked very late and got excellent fruit."(numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY and Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; also represented by Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Bordeaux, France) 2004 Alain Graillot St. Joseph: Medium red. Fresh, floral aromas of red berries and smoke. Light to medium in body, with a gentle strawberry flavor and a silky texture. Very easy to drink even now Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage: Light ruby. More intense aromas of cassis, blackberry and cracked pepper. A serious, lush, concentrated fruit bomb, with excellent power and depth and a building flavor of ripe cassis. Finishes with more sober notes of bitter cherry and espresso but there is clearly an abundance of ripe berry fruit here Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage La Guiraude: Deep red color. Smoky and meaty on the nose, with a note of roasted garrigue accenting the pure red berry fruit. Very well-balanced ("the best trait of this vintage," says Maxime), with precise, sweet flavors of red plum and cherry. Finishes ripe and round; the tannins only appear with aeration. 89-

9 2003 Alain Graillot Hermitage: Medium red color. Impressively aromatic nose offers cherry, pungent tobacco, dried flower and dark chocolate. Rich and dense, with a big, chewy texture and explosively sweet red berry and plum flavors that build through the finish. Finishes unctuous and very long, with an exotic suggestion of coffee liqueur. There are fewer than 300 bottles of this, from Greffieux vines planted in the early '90s. 92 Points Other Recommended Northern Rhône Wines 2004 J. L. Chave Selection Saint-Joseph Offerus: Component from St. Jean de Muzols: Pungent, floral and black fruit-driven, with intense cassis, licorice and botanical herb elements. From Mauves: Aromas and flavors of minerals and bright red fruits, with solid underlying structure. Should make an excellent blend. J. L. Chave Selection is Jean- Louis Chave's own project, based in a new chai near the family cellar. The quality here is very high and the wines provide a taste of the Chave style at a much more affordable price. "I'm trying to make the old style of Saint-Joseph," Jean-Louis explained, invoking the name of the legendary Raymond Trollat Points 2003 J. L. Chave Selection Saint-Joseph Offerus: Medium ruby. Pungent, wild, expanding aromas of cherry, smoked meat, lavender and licorice. Quite meaty and sauvage on the palate, with a rich, thick texture and very ripe dark plum flavor. Impressively concentrated, powerful wine that combines a distinct wildness with noteworthy sweetness of fruit. (Erin Cannon Imports, Manhasset, NY) The Southern Rhône Chateau de Beaucastel: The Perrin family has been on a major land acquisition roll, acquiring more than 100 acres in Vinsobres (which has just been elevated from Cotes du Rhone-Villages status to AOC, along with Beaumes de Venise rouge), as well as entering into contracts for grapes from Vacqueyras and Rasteau.These wines are bottled under the Perrin label, and I was able to taste the 2004 releases with Pierre Perrin at Beaucastel in November (see notes later in this issue).as for the flagship wines from Chateau de Beaucastel, they are, in a word, brilliant.i was especially struck by the quality of the white wines; it was clear from Perrin's enthusiasm that these are wines that matter deeply to the family.vintage 2003 was a big success for the red wines here, especially owing to the atypical ripeness achieved by Beaucastel's grenache, which the family harvested late and which makes up 50% of the blend in this vintage."i only love grenache when it's ripe," noted Perrin.The harvest of 2004 took place under what Perrin described as "perfect conditions, no problems at all," and the wines are wonderfully fresh, balanced and pure.(vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL) 2004 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc: Bright, pale gold. Exotic, almost tropical aromas of orange, tangerine, white peach and jasmine. Lush and thick on the palate, with the orange flavor gaining weight and turning creamy with aeration. Intensely mineral on the back, finishing with an almost salty tone.

10 2004 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Roussanne Vieilles Vignes Blanc: Medium gold color. Brooding, deep aromas of orange marmalade, mango, melon and candied quince. Thick and unctuous, with incredible thickness and weight, showing a range of ripe tropical fruits and intense bitter orange and honey flavors. The yield here was just 14 hectoliters per hectare, according to Pierre Perrin. Clings to the palate like glue, with a gorgeous note of peach essence. An immensely concentrated, powerful wine with a long track record for improving with age. 95 Points 2004 Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhone Blanc: Deep red. Roasted aromas of cherry, plum jam, coffee and chocolate. Quite sweet in the mouth, with a round, supple texture and gentle tannins. Finishes with good lingering warmth and a note of cherry preserves Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape: Dark red color. Sweet, lush but energetic aromas of bitter cherry, redcurrant, rhubarb, espresso and damp earth. Silky and fine-grained, with a wonderfully suave texture and youthful, primary dark berry, singed cherry and licorice flavors. The very fine, dusty tannins perfectly frame the sweet, fresh red berry flavors. Finishes seamless and very long Points 2003 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape: Deep, dense red color. Vibrant aromas of aromas of cherry, wild herbs, fresh flowers and minerals. Energetic and sweet, showing no overripe qualities; offers a silky, suave texture and wonderfully pure red berry, fresh plum, kirsch and fig flavors. Those with an aversion to the funky, gamey character that can characterize Beaucastel in "typical" vintages owe it to themselves to check this out. Clearly, the Perrins know what to do with grenache, even if it's not their favorite grape. 93 Points Other Recommended Southern Rhône Wines 2004 Domaine Isabel Ferrando Chateauneuf du Pape Colombis: Deep red. Pungent earthy and floral nose offers scents of dried cherry, plum, garrigue roasted coffee and black tea. Warm and round on the palate, showing sweet, nicely focused red berry and cherry liqueur flavors and a sappy, clinging texture. Finishes lush, gently tannic and long. (Daniel Johnnes Wines, New York, NY) Perrin & Fils Vinsobres Les Cornuds: Bright red. Intensely floral aromas of spicy cherry, wild strawberry, garrigue, red licorice and dried violet. Firm and juicy, with nicely focused red berry flavors. Finishes nervy and long, with a complicating note of cracked pepper. 88-

11 2004 Perrin & Fils Rasteau L'Andeol: Deep, saturated red. Superripe aromas of cherry jam, roasted coffee, fruitcake and dark chocolate. Thick and full, with powerful dark fruit and licorice flavors accented by peppery spices. A big, thick wine that will be at its best alongside full-flavored red meat dishes Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras Les Christins: Medium ruby. Deep, roasted aromas of superripe plum, dark cherry, smoky garrigue and grilled meat. Almost port-like in texture, offering serious weight and palate coverage. The concentrated, jammy cherry and prune flavors carry through the rich, porty finish. Fans of surmaturite will appreciate this more than I did; I wanted more clarity and energy. But Pierre Perrin says he loves the texture Perrin & Fils Gigondas La Gille: Light red color. Suave aromas of fresh raspberry, kirsch, anise and flowers. Bright and racy on the palate, displaying lively, focused red berry and cherry flavors. "This will age well," Perrin asserts Perrin & Fils Chateauneuf du Pape Les Sinards: Bright red. Ripe, pungent scents of cherry, dark plum, garrigue and licorice. Big and chewy, with ripe dark berry flavors, along with a note of smoked meat. Fresh and firmly structured on the back, with slow-mounting tannins that frame rather than obscure the fruit. This is from the young vines of Beaucastel, according to Perrin Perrin & Fils Vinsobres Les Hauts de Julien Vieilles Vignes: Deep ruby-red. Wild scents of blood orange, fresh game, licorice and truffle. Spicy and fresh, with powerful, focused flavors of tangy berries, fresh plum and fennel. Taut and a bit youthfully ungiving on the finish, but shows sneaky length Perrin & Fils Cotes du Rhone Villages Vinsobres Les Hautes de Julien: Deep red. Very ripe, smoky aromas of roasted cherry, plum preserves and dark chocolate. Quite '03 in style, with ripe dark cherry and coffee flavors, a round texture and noteworthy warmth. Finishes plummy and deep, with suggestions of blackberry and cassis liqueur Perrin & Fils Cotes du Rhone Villages Rasteau L'Andeol: Dark red. Spicy cherry- and dark chocolate-scented nose, with a hint of black cardamom. Rich and ripe but perked up by a refreshingly bitter cherry skin quality and a note of white pepper. Leaves an impression of warmth on the chewy, ripe finish Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras Les Christins: Medium red. Warm, ripe and peppery on the nose, offering sweet cherry and plum preserve fruit notes plus a hint of fresh herbs. Focused, tangy flavors of cherry and bitter chocolate, complicated by suggestions of fresh oregano and thyme. This has good structure and length.

12 2003 Perrin & Fils Gigondas La Gille: Bright medium red. Pure and fresh on the nose, showing a bright raspberry quality complicated by fresh herbs. Silky and luscious, with a round texture and inviting flavors of wild strawberry and raspberry preserves. A sweet, fruity example of this very ripe vintage. This and the Vacqueyras offer very good value. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL) 2004 Domaine St. Gayan Gigondas: Deep red. Powerful, focused aromas of ripe plum, cherry and roasted coffee. The rich flavors of dark berries and plum pick up notes of meat and wild herbs with air. Fat, ripe and long on the finish, which struck me as more '03 than '04 in character Domaine St. Gayan Rasteau Cotes du Rhone Villages: Bright red. Pungent, primary aromas of fresh cranberry, rhubarb, strawberry jam and plum. Ripe and heady, with lush berry fruit flavors and notes of fresh bay and blood orange. This has admirable verve and focus for the vintage, finishing on a sappy, juicy note of pomegranate Domaine St. Gayan Gigondas: Medium red color. Superripe, concentrated aromas of prune, plum jam, kirsch and smoked meat; just this side of too much. Then surprisingly lively and fresh on the palate, with sweet, precise, berry fruit flavors complicated by mocha and roasted coffee. Finishes sweet, gently tannic and persistent. (Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Bordeaux, France) Domaine Saint Prefert: Other wines tasted: 2003 Chateaneuf du Pape Collection Charles Giraud, 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier. (Daniel Johnnes Imports, New York, NY) 2004 Domaine Saint Prefert Chateauneuf Du Pape Collection Charles Giraud: Medium red color. Pungent, earthy scents of red berries, plum, cola, sassafras and espresso. Vibrant and fresh, with flavors of cherry, cranberry and dried lavender. Nicely focused and long, with a note of rhubarb sneaking in on the tail end Domaine Saint Prefert Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier: Ruby-red. Richer and smokier on the nose than the Charles Giraud bottling, with notes of cherry, dark berries and candied licorice. Fresh and focused on the palate, with hints of raw meat, cracked pepper and black tea to go with the bitter cherry and plum fruit flavors. Finishes fresh and lively, with a somewhat sauvage character. 89-

13 Mitterhein Toni Jost-Hahnenhof, Bacharach: Peter Jost's best wines are always from the stunning Hahn vineyard north of Bacharach, with its beautiful southerly exposure.always interested in experimenting, Jost is one of the few vintners here who have invested heavily in a drip irrigation system, and this certainly did him more good in the hot, dry 2003 season than in the more classical 2004 vintage.although his use of lees aging has met with mixed press, Jost's 2004s are by their very nature fresher and more elegant than the 2003s, and spiked with a lively mineral acidity that the earlier crop of wines often lacked.the spatleses and the normal auslese show the current vintage at its finest.jost's Gold Capsule Auslese, on the other hand, was an attempt to wrestle from Mother Nature a wine that 2004 seldom brought on its own.(terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, New York) Also recommended: 2004 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett (86) Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spatlese Trocken: Aromas of grapefruit, melon and acacia blossom. The palate offers ripe fruit of modest depth, but with a zingy minerality and spicy acidity that refresh the palate. Finishes with plenty of verve Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs: Expressive aromas of pineapple and mango. The luscious fruit has good weight and is animated by vibrant acidity. This wine shows more depth on the finish than the dry spatlese Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett Feinherb: Floral aromas intermingled with mandarin orange. Nearly dry in style, with the buoyant fruit tiptoeing across the palate. Enticingly light and succulent on the finish Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spatlese: Vibrant aromas of apple blossom and guava. Those silky tropical fruits are underpinned by just enough depth and a firm slap of minerality on the palate. The residual sugar is adroitly balanced by lively acidity in the spicy finish Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Auslese: Ripe peach, sweet lime and toasted nuts on the nose. The exceptionally vibrant fruit is nicely focused and not at all heavy on the palate. The wine's subtlety of flavor, along with its lightness and lift, ensure an appealing finish Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule: Golden yellow color. Sultry aromas of ripe apricot, bergamot and obvious botrytis. Lusciously sweet tropical fruit pours creamily, but almost cloyingly, over the palate. Weightier than the auslese on the finish, but less elegant.

14 Florian Weingart, Spay: Florian Weingart, the rising star on the Mittelrhein, crushed his 2004s with the highest average must weight in the history of the winery, higher even than the extremely ripe 2003s.Nothing was harvested below 90o Oechsle, but all the lots have a vibrant acidity that the 2003s lacked."it was my spatlese vintage," said Weingart, who showed me 18 rieslings, 12 of which were spatleses-four each in dry, off-dry and classical style.actually, even the luscious kabinett is a spatlese.of particular interest for wine lovers is the off-dry spatlese that he named "Anarchie" because it stopped fermenting with an awkward 35 grams of residual sugar.this is a style of wine that is, unfortunately, not made much anymore.i give it what the French call a "coup de coeur."despite his growing fame, the exceptionally thoughtful Weingart has not lost his head and still delivers a wide range of excellent rieslings at very consumer-friendly prices.(terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, New York) Also recommended: 2004 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese Trocken (87), 2004 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken (88), 2004 Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (87), 2004 Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Spatlese (88), 2004 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Riesling Spatlese (89) 2004 Florian Weingart Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken: A basketful of orchard fruits on the nose, along with a sprig of mint. Juicy nectarine flavor offers sufficient depth and is perked up by clean, lively acidity. Crisp and refreshing on the finish Florian Weingart Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese Anarchie: Unusual aromas of quince, mint and candle wax. Precise fruit offers good weight and moderate sweetness but comes across as distinctly juicy owing to the wine's zingy acidity and uplifting minerality. Appealing, almost elegant finish. Perhaps I am slightly underrating this Florian Weingart Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Kabinett: Pineapple, cinnamon and an odd hint of botrytis on the nose. Ripe tropical fruits supported by an unusual, almost pungent acidity. A bit disjointed on the finish, perhaps simply in need of some time in bottle. A well-made kabinett in a rather offbeat style Florian Weingart Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese: Discreet aromas of apricot, mint and lemon oil. The subdued, sweet fruit gradually gives way to mineral salts. Livelier and perhaps spicier than the Feuerlay Spatlese yet not quite as impressive Florian Weingart Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese: Lifted aromas of peach, ripe melon and lilac. Offers good weight on the palate, with a harmonious juxtaposition of bright fruit and crisp acidity. Persistent and satisfying on the finish.

15 2004 Florian Weingart Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Auslese: Golden yellow hue. Full-throttle nose offers pineapple, mango and botrytis. Juicy, full-bodied tropical fruit flavors are refreshed by an uplifting minerality. Rich, refined and spicy on the finish. An excellent auslese for the vintage Florian Weingart Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Eiswein (half bottle): Golden yellow color. Restrained aromas of quince, lime and mint. Crisp, clean green apple fruit on the palate, with the wine's rather daunting acidic structure masking its true weight. A thirst- quencher with a long, spicy finish Florian Weingart Bopparder Hamm Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese: Amber-gold color. Intense aromas of dried apricots butterscotch and cinnamon. Enormously concentrated fruit verges on overblown but is accompanied by vibrant acidity to maintain its grip. Incredibly long, haunting finish. My pick as the finest wine produced on the Mittelrhein in 2004 and one of the ten best of its kind in Germany. 95 Points Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Ürzig: In 2001 Hans Leo Christoffel, now almost 70, leased his five acres of top-notch vineyards to Robert Eymael.The wines are still vinified and marketed separately, but the administration and sales are handled exclusively by Eymael's Monchhof estate.although Christoffel is still in what he refers to as active retirement, it is unclear how long his success story of the '90s will continue unabated.the 2004s were quite austere when I tasted them but will probably put on flesh as they mature and may well turn out better than rated here.(terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (85), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese (86), 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (86), 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Eiswein (87) Joh. Jos. Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese: Aromas of kiwi, honeysuckle and lemon oil. Bright raspberry fruit and a polished texture on the palate. The juicy, slate-driven acidity still appears quite austere. This will need time to open Joh. Jos. Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese: Pale golden yellow. Aromas of yellow plum, quince and brown spice. Denser but somewhat sweet and not as pure as the one-star Spatlese. Rich but can't match the other Auslese for elegance. Still rather dumb: this will need time to develop more expression Points 2004 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese: Pale golden-yellow color. Tangerine and apple blossom on the nose. Delicate yet rich in spice and decidedly floral. A salty minerality rather than obvious sweetness graces the finish, but there's a creamy quality to balance the mineral character. Good length Points

16 2004 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese: Pale golden yellow. Lively aromas of peach pit, honeysuckle and candied lemon. Bright and spicy, the sweet, plush fruit and velvety texture contributing an impression of creaminess. Herbal essences heighten the pleasing finish Points 2004 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese: Pale golden yellow. Heady aromas of strawberry and nut oils, with only a gentle hint of spicy botrytis. Fruit essences and mineral salts animate the creamily rich yet delicate palate. More concentrated than the other ausleses from this estate and a perfect expression of the Wurzgarten vineyard. Somewhat austere on the finish Points Willi Schaefer, Graach: With only two hectares of choice parcels in top sites near his home in Graach, Willi Schaefer had a string of successes in the '90s.After slightly expanding his holdings there were a couple of performances that did not quite meet one's expectations, but the last two vintages have been back on track.the light, graceful style may not impress those who prefer flesh and muscle, but these rieslings are always elegant and eminently drinkable.(terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2004 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett (85), 2004 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Feinherb (86) Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett: Refined aromas of apple blossom, smoked almond and acacia honey. Quite luscious on the palate, but with a fine mineral edge giving shape to the wine. Finishes nicely, with slate and allspice Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese: Subtle bouquet of peach, cinnamon and lemon zest. The elegant apricot fruit is decidedly light on the palate, highlighted by a refreshing acidity. Mineral salts accent the pleasing finish Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #16: Elusive floral aromas complicate rich apricot and vanilla. Offers a satiny texture, with luscious tropical fruit flavors brightened by a charge of acidity. Nut oils and slate define the elegant finish Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese: Pale golden yellow. Candied apricot, clove and lemon oil on the nose. A creamy papaya flavor and salty minerality dominate the palate. Offers good richness but not quite the precision of the Domprobst auslese. Enticing finish Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese: Mango, clover and lemon oil on the nose. Sleek and refined, with a juicy, mouthwatering freshness. Finishes gracefully, with flavors of tropical fruits, almonds and slate. Very nicely balanced auslese.

17 2004 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule: Scents of apple blossom, white raisin and quince are highlighted by a hint of spicy botrytis. Rich, candied fruit shows a velvety texture, but the minty acidity keeps the palate fresh. Dense yet light on its feet, with mineral salts providing spiciness on the elegant, long finish. 92 Points Selbach-Oster, Zeltingen: After the death of his father Hans, Johannes Selbach has taken full responsibility for his family's estate.a traditionalist, he does not want his wines to be overblown or heavy, and he is worried by the prevailing tendency for kabinett to taste like spatlese and spatlese like auslese.the most fascinating aspect of his wines is their light and playful minerality.as he says, "that is what we do best on the Mosel.Why should we want to do anything else?"like the wines of Willi Schaefer, these rieslings are not trying to make statements.instead, they invite contemplation.(terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2004 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (85), 2004 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (87), 2004 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese (87), 2004 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese i (89), 2004 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein (90) Selbach Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese: Lively aromas of passion fruit, lemon candy and acacia honey. Currently displaying more smoke and slate than pineapple and lime on the palate, but still quite refreshing. There's more concentration here than is immediately apparent, but this is still light and elegant. Finishes with nice length Selbach Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese: Subtle aromas of pineapple, redcurrant and honeysuckle. Rich and creamy yet delicate, with vibrant flavors of citrus fruits and toasted almond. Elegant, nicely balanced and very satisfying, finishing with pure slate Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Rotlay Riesling Auslese: Bright aromas of tangerine and lemon oil, with a hint of clove. Offers a light touch for a wine with creamy depth; flavors of tart apple, refreshing salts and hazelnut. Graceful rather than overly sweet, finishing with attractive minerality.

18 Ruwer Karlsmühle, Mertesdorf: Peter Geiben's family has been making wine in the Ruwer valley for generations.although this estate has long been one of my favorites here, the vintages from 2000 onward have often been somewhat less than thrilling.last year many of the wines showed a steely acidity that tended to diminish the lavishness of the fruit.vintage 2004 is in much the same vein.this style may work well for eiswein, but less so for kabinett and spatlese.(terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Lorenhofer Riesling Trocken Alte Reben (85), 2004 Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spatlese (86) Karlsmuhle Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule #13: Golden yellow color. Sultry aromas of ripe apricot, bergamot and smoky botrytis. Lusciously sweet papaya fruit pours creamily, almost cloyingly, over the palate. Weightier than the Long Gold Capsule Auslese #15 on the finish, but not as precise or elegant Karlsmuhle Lorenzhofer Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule A. P. #15: Rich golden yellow. Aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and lemon waft over the botrytis tones of woodsmoke and brown spices. Rich and glossy in texture, with creamy mirabelle fruit tinged by vanilla and cinnamon and driven by vibrant citric acidity. Noteworthy more for its depth and length than for its balance. This wine has 7% alcohol, while the #13 weighs in at 8% Karlsmuhle Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Eiswein (half bottle): Pale gold. Crisp, clear aromas of cling peach and lemon oil, with a hint of botrytis. The flavor of sweet pear is kept light by a riveting acidity. Firm, dense and steely on the finish Karlsmuhle Lorenzhofer Riesling Eiswein: Pale gold. Bright aromas of apricot pit, herbal honey and mint. The rich, glossy papaya fruit marries well with an invigorating, uplifting acidity that nicely buffers the wine's weight. Finishes long, with a spicy nuance. 92 Points Nahe Schlossgut Diel, Burg Layen: Armin Diel's reputation as a restaurant critic, wine writer and outspoken maverick often clouds people's perception of his wines.those who like him love his wines, while those who do not will always find fault.to his credit, he promoted the wines of Helmut Donnhoff and Werner Schonleber at a time when their wines were perhaps better than his own, even though few had ever heard of them.but few who have tasted the last four vintages here can question that this estate has now emerged as the third big gun on the Nahe.Like the man, though, these wines from the lower stretches of the river are more full-bodied, perhaps closer to the Rheingau in style, but that does not mean they lack in elegance.quite the contrary.that is what the 2004s, which are in their own way every bit as good as the excellent 2003s, are all about.[editor's note:in the interests of full disclosure, Joel Payne has been tasting and writing with Armin Diel for the past 17 years, but notes that other wine critics express the same general opinion of the quality of Diel's wines and in many instances rate them even

19 higher than he does.](terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Classic (86), 2004 Riesling Kabinett (87), 2004 Riesl ing Pittermannchen Kabinett (88), 2004 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs (90), 2004 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spatlese (90) Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Grosses Gewachs: Bright aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and sweet spices. A crisp, almost crunchy pear fruit, along with a subtle saltiness, give this wine a vibrant character. Finishes pure and clean, with a spicy character lingering impressively on the finish. The most elegant of the estate's dry rieslings in the early going. 92 Points 2004 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs: Heady aromas of tropical fruits, wisteria and grapefruit zest. Intense, full-bodied fruit almost muscles its way over the palate, then gives way to a flinty minerality that masks its depth. Rich and highly concentrated on the finish. A bit closed today, but this is a dry riesling for the long haul. 93 Points 2004 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Kabinett: Subtle aromas of apricot, lime and sweet spices. The refreshing acidity makes this spatlese-style kabinett appear light and superbly elegant. Piquant fruit and lively spice animate the finish Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Spatlese: Elegant aromas of ripe peach, kiwi and vanilla. The sweet mango fruit and silky texture remain delicate in spite of the wine's considerable richness. An almost salty minerality animates the finish. In a distinctly invigorating style Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Spatlese: Resplendent aromas of papaya, pineapple and oyster shell. Dense but juicy, with a finely spiced acidity that seizes one's palate. Finishes with impressive concentration and length. One of the finest spatleses of the vintage. 92 Points 2004 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Auslese: Bright aromas of grapefruit, honeysuckle and sweet spices. Luscious and velvety, but the passion fruit flavor remains delicately sweet. Finishes elegant and very long, with intense spiciness and terrific clarity. 93 Points 2004 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule: Rich aromas of apricot, quince and sweet spices mingle above the botrytis. A salty minerality provides lift and elegance to the complex, unctuous tropical fruit flavors. Perfectly balanced and extremely long. One of the most successful ausleses of the vintage. 94 Points

20 2004 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Eiswein (half bottle): Explosive aromas of white peach, citrus oil and smoke. Sleek, clean fruit displays an excellent balance of vibrant acidity and luscious residual sugar. At once serene and exciting. Very pure eiswein, with uncanny persistence. 96 Points Hermann Donnhoff, Oberhausen: Helmut Donnhoff has a status in Germany that can only be compared to that of Egon Muller.The wines as well as the man are legendary, virtually a national monument.a meticulous traditionalist, his classical spatleses have always been his strong suit.and, as he often reiterates, "the quality of a vintage can be read like tea leaves in each of these wines."after the baroque richness of 2003 his 2004s shine with crystalline texture and precise articulation-or, as he says, "with minerality and elegance."and each vineyard has its own distinct character, like so many children from different wives.although not often seen in the States, his dry Grosses Gewachs have improved remarkably over the last two vintages and now garner the same accolades in Germany that his spatleses do abroad.(terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett (85), 2004 Niederhauser Dellchen Riesling Spatlese Trocken (86) Hermann Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs: (dry) Savory aromas of dried apricot and wild spices, with something smoky behind it all. Dense berry fruit and a finely polished minerality animate the palate. Rich on the finish and yet elegant and ethereal. 92 Points 2004 Hermann Donnhoff Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Spatlese: Subtle aromas of white peach, lime and sweet spices. The lip-smacking acidity makes this spatlese appear light and elegant. Salty minerality and lively spice character animate the finish Hermann Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese: Apricot, lemon oil and a hint of flint on the nose. The succulent tropical fruit flavors are nicely balanced and framed by mineral salts. More appealing than complex on the finish, but makes for excellent drinking Hermann Donnhoff Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spatlese: Full-throttle aromas of lichee, lemon oil and smoked almond. Rich tropical fruit flavors are complicated by a hint of smoke and a certain piquancy. Subtle acidity brings spice and a rather feminine character to the finish Hermann Donnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese: Subtle, nuanced aromas of honeysuckle, pineapple and lime. Pure and polished on the palate, with peachy fruit and a refined minerality. Finishes delicate and long.

21 2004 Hermann Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese: Mesmerizing aromas of papaya, sweet herbs and spearmint. Intense but discreet cherry fruit rises from the mid-palate, accompanied by brilliant acidity. The riveting finish is animated and spicy. One of the finest spatleses of the vintage in Germany. 92 Points 2004 Hermann Donnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule Halbmond: Pale gold. Ripe apple and lime and forest floor scents mingle with a hint of spicy botrytis. Rich, unctuous tropical fruit flavors pervade the palate. Finishes with creamy depth and smoky spices. Obviously an auslese in style. 92 Points 2004 Hermann Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese (half bottle): Pale golden yellow. Musky peach, a floral touch and a bit of licorice on the nose. Smoke and honey give way to spicy acidity on the palate. A well-balanced, vivid auslese that finishes with an almost salty minerality. 92 Points 2004 Hermann Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule: Rich golden yellow. Magnificent aromas of yellow plum, honeysuckle and sweet spices, with an overlay of botrytis. Smoky pineapple jam, fiery botrytis tones and an elevated minerality animate the palate. Finishes dense, juicy and long. 93 Points 2004 Hermann Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein (half bottle): Pale golden yellow. Lively aromas of white peach, citrus oil and woodsmoke. Sleek, glossy fruit displays a fine balance between vibrant acidity and succulent residual sugar. Quite poised and impressively long on the finish. An excellent eiswein, yet this stands in the shadow of the one harvested on Dienstag (Tuesday). 93 Points 2004 Hermann Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein Gold Capsule Dienstag: Pale golden yellow. Sublime aromas of candied citrus fruits, acacia honey and cinnamon. At once succulent and weighty, with a deep passion fruit flavor elevated by spicy minerality. Finishes with great class and persistence. This is my early candidate for wine of the vintage in Germany. 98 Points Kruger-Rumpf, Munster-Sarmsheim: Stefan Rumpf, who always sports a wry smile, pays particular attention to his dry rieslings, not only because they work well at his restaurant, but also because these are the wines he most enjoys drinking.this emphasis worked to his advantage in 2002 and 2003.However, 2004 will probably not be remembered as a brilliant vintage here.granted, most producers on the Nahe would be tickled to bottle wines of such quality, but I expect a bit more from this modest craftsman, whose ambition-witness the purchase of the Scharlachberg site across the river in Rheinhessen-has grown of late.(terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik.

22 2004 Weingut Kruger Rumpf Munsterer Pittersberg Gewachs Riesling Trocken: Citrus pip, nut oils and hyacinth on the nose. The rather tightly wound apricot fruit opens slowly to show spicy, almost razor-sharp acidity. Austere, but still convincing Weingut Kruger Rumpf Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Spatlese: Heady aromas of pear, cinnamon and sweet herbs. An almost syrupy fruit quality is nicely balanced by the low-keyed minerality. More full-bodied than elegant on the finish. Rheingau Josef Spreitzer, Oestrich: Since Bernd and Andreas Spreitzer joined their father Bernhard in the late '90s this estate has gone from strength to strength, and the last three vintages have all been excellent.like Johannes Leitz, this family does multiple styles well.the dry rieslings are nicely balanced, the half-dry Charta a classic example of the type, and the spatleses and ausleses are often sublime.as this estate is not that well known, the wines are still modestly priced.(terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2004 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (85), 2004 Ostricher Doosberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken (86), 2004 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spatlese (86), 2004 Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett (87) Weingut Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Erstes Gewachs: Aromas of white peach, nut oils and lemon balm. Pure, succulent apricot fruit shows a low-keyed spicy character. Tightly strung, classic Rheingau riesling, finishing with very good length Weingut Spreitzer Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewachs: Floral aromas mingle with white peach and a hint of oyster shell. The texture is delicately creamy, and there's an almost nutty flavor. The subtle but impressively long finish ends on an uplifting salty note Weingut Spreitzer Ostricher Lenchen Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken: Withdrawn aromas of bosc pear, sweet herbs and lemon zest. Juicy peachy flavor offers a hint of sweetness and an attractive salty note. A well-balanced, easy-drinking style of riesling Weingut Spreitzer Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Charta: Aromas of fresh peach, grapefruit and lemon oil. Bright, clean mango fruit is lifted by juicy, tangy, saline minerality. Nicely balanced wine with enticing spicy lift on the back end. It's too bad that this half-dry (Feinherb) style of wine is going out of fashion.

23 2004 Weingut Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Spatlese #303: Aromas of caramelized peach and mango, with a touch of cinnamon. Delicately creamy tropical fruits ooze over the palate. This show more unctuous sweetness than salty minerality, but finishes with excellent persistence. A wine to lay down for ten years Weingut Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese (half bottle): Sweet, musky aromas of cling peach and orchid. Delicate tropical fruit flavors and ripe acidity entice the palate. More sweet than tangy and bright, but nicely balanced and long Weingut Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule: Opulent aromas of pear drop, acacia honey and candied orange accentuate the powerful, musky botrytis character. The sweet, honey-glazed fruit is almost overpowering, with the wine's fine mineral structure presently completely subdued. Hard to judge now, but clearly offers excellent potential Points 2004 Weingut Spreitzer Hallgartner Jungfer Riesling Eiswein (half bottle): Lemon oil, brioche and candied pineapple are complemented by floral aromas. At once creamy and delicate, with the precision and vibrant acidity I expect from an eiswein. Fine length. 93 Points Rheinhessen Wagner-Stempel, Siefersheim: The stony soils here, with their layers of quartzite and porphyry, are more reminiscent of the neighboring Nahe region than the rest of Rheinhessen.Wagner-Stempel has long been an unknown estate with obscure vineyards, but in the past two vintages Lothar Wagner's son Daniel has put Siefersheim on the map.a young and ambitious winemaker, Wagner previously made wines with more polish than character.but the 2003 vintage brought new dimension to his wines, and these added nuances are also evident in the more elegant, zingy 2004s.This is an up-and-coming estate that certainly merits closer attention.(terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Trocken (85), 2004 Weisser Burgunder "S" (86), 2004 Silvaner Trocken "S" (86), 2004 Siefersheimer Hollberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (89) Wagner-Stempel Siefersheimer Riesling Von Porphyr Trocken: Subtle aromas of white peach, apple blossom and almost salty oyster shell. The smoky, almost piquant pink grapefruit flavor reflects the chalky minerality of the site. Finishes clean, crisp and savory, with good grip Wagner-Stempel Heerkretz Riesling Grosses Gewachs: Smoke, apricot pit and lemon oil on the nose. Refined, invigorating fruit shows very good drive. The wine's salty minerality currently masks its depth of fruit but adds complexity to the finish. Needs time in bottle.

24 2004 Wagner-Stempel Siefersheimer Hollberg Riesling Spatlese: Pale golden yellow. Warm, inviting aromas of yellow plum, honeydew melon and rose petal. Rich and quite full-bodied, this spatlese impresses more for depth than for elegance. Good extract and provocative acidity will keep this one going for years. Perhaps I have underrated this Points 2004 Wagner-Stempel Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Spatlese: Pale golden yellow. Seductive aromas of ripe peach, smoked almond and iris. Luscious but juicy pineapple flavor and bracing acidity tantalize the palate. Finishes very long, with striking and alluring spiciness Wagner-Stempel Siefersheimer Hollberg Riesling Auslese (500 ml): Pale gold. Heady aromas of ripe apricot, acacia honey and licorice unfold beneath the subdued botrytis. Flavors of caramelized plum, tobacco and vanilla share the stage with a creamy, almost malty texture. Very rich and deep on the finish. Still, I prefer the elegance of the Heerkretz Spatlese to the weight of this auslese. Wittmann, Westhofen: The Wittmann family's estate not only has a Mediterranean-style courtyard adorned with art, but also possesses a treasure chest of wines from the past.the oldest bottles date back to 1921, and there are still stocks of the exceptional 1934 and 1937 vintages.gunter Wittmann, who spends most of his time in the vineyard, leaving the cellar to son Philipp, has long shown enthusiasm for organic viticultural practices and began implementing those concepts here in 1990, long before it became fashionable.the 1999 vintage catapulted this estate to the forefront in Rheinhessen and was followed shortly thereafter by the excellent 2001s.Although the dry 2004 rieslings may not quite have the depth of that vintage, the spatleses, ausleses and trockenbeerenauslese are some of the finest produced in the vintage.for the record, I gave 10 of the 16 wines I tasted here 90 points or more.(terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Trocken (86), 2004 Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewachs (89), 2004 Chardonnay "S" (90), 2004 Weisser Burgunder "S" (91), 2004 Albalonga Beerenauslese (92) Gunter Wittmann Westhofener Riesling Trocken S: Subtle aromas of white peach, persimmon and almond. Persistently juicy fruit on the palate. Lowkeyed finish rich in salty minerality Gunter Wittmann Westhofener Kirschspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs: Wild aromas of apricot, vanilla and fennel. The rich, tropical fruits are characterized more by elegance than by depth, but this dry wine still possesses a fascinating complexity. Offers alluring spice on the seductive, long finish. This is the more feminine of these two grand crus and the more flattering to drink in its youth.

25 2004 Gunter Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs: Deep aromas of wild peach and sweet lime, with a touch of cinnamon. The intense, deep fruit and perfectly balanced acidity combine to create a texture like velvet. The sheer weight and uplifting spice character linger impressively on the aftertaste. This is the more masculine of the two grand crus and certainly the long-distance runner Points 2004 Gunter Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Spatlese: Fine aromas of passion fruit, linden blossom and wild spice. The suave, sweet fruit marries nicely with the wine's salty minerality; despite its depth, this spatlese remains remarkably light. Serious and yet utterly seductive on the finish Gunter Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Auslese S: Opulent aromas of wild plum, vanilla and pure botrytis. The lusciously ripe tropical fruits are animated by a discreet but persistent acidity that keeps the wine fresh. Finishes with rich, spicy depths. 92 Points 2004 Gunter Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (half bottle): Ripe apricot, lichee and toasted almond mingle elegantly with flamboyantly spicy botrytis on the nose. Deep, rich, highly concentrated flavors of yellow plum and quince are complemented by a smoky note and a bittersweet accent from the botrytis. Despite its outstanding depth, this TBA remains sleek and refined on the finish. 94 Points 2004 Gunter Wittmann Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese S : Distinguished aromas of fig, date and orange zest rise with the botrytis from the glass. Enormous fruit extract and dazzling acidity keep this wine vibrant on the palate despite its huge weight. Finishes with uncommonly pure fruits, wild spices and outstanding persistence. One of the finest dessert wines of the vintage. 95 Points Pfalz Josef Biffar, Deidesheim: This estate had a few poor vintages after the departure of winemaker Ulrich Mell but has been back on even keel over the past few years.after the death of Gerhard Biffar in 2004, his daughter Lily has returned to manage the estate.the vineyards have always been first class, and now that the cellar has been renovated and other technical aspects modernized, Heiner Maleton has the facilities he needs to make excellent wines.as good as some of the rieslings might be, though, he has yet to bring the consistency expected of a great estate.in particular, the sweet wines, which shone in 2003, were a bit short on vibrancy this year.(terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Trocken (85), 2004 Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Kabinett (86), 2004 Ruppertsberger Nussbien Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86),

26 2004 Deidesheimer Maushohle Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2004 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2004 Wachenheimer Goldbachel Riesling Spatlese Trocken (87), 2004 Wachenheimer Altenburg Riesling Spatlese Trocken (88), 2004 Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Auslese (85) Josef Biffar Wachenheimer Gerumpel Riesling Spatlese Trocken: Quince, sweet smoke and redcurrant on the nose. Offers a succulent texture, with rich, plummy fruit and understated minerality. Nicely balanced, spicy and persistent on the aftertaste Josef Biffar Deidesheimer Grainhubel Riesling Spatlese Trocken Grosses Gewachs: Opulent aromas of white peach, persimmon and pine nuts. Refined apricot fruit with a hint of smoked almonds and a discreet minerality dominate the palate. Perhaps somewhat old-fashioned in its subdued fruit and deep pitch, but offers pleasant length Josef Biffar Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken: Aromas of apricot pit, quince and honeysuckle. Rich, juicy peach stone flavor framed by bright citrus acidity. Vibrant, well-balanced and compellingly drinkable on the long finish. My favorite dry riesling from this cellar. Dr. Deinhard, Deidesheim: Heinz Bauer, along with Hans-Gunter Schwarz of Muller-Catoir, was one of the towering figures of his generation, training numerous young winemakers and instilling in them a desire to achieve perfection.yet quality at this estate has often been sporadic, and this has not changed since the arrival of the new winemaker Kurt Rathgeber.That said, the old-fashioned, youthfully tight style of wine made here is often difficult to judge in its early days in bottle.the 2004s look promising, though, but the wines seldom shine until they have had a few years of bottle age.(terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2004 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2004 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2004 Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (86), 2004 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spatlese Trocken (86), 2004 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Spatlese Trocken Grosses Gewachs (87), 2004 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (86) Dr. Deinhard Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spatlese Trocken Grosses Gewachs: Ripe aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and lemon oil. The somewhat herbal apricot pit flavor and salty minerality are nicely interwoven. Alluring rather than deep or especially long on the finish Dr. Deinhard Ruppertsberger Spiess Riesling Spatlese Trocken Grosses Gewachs: Heady aromas of papaya, smoked meat and mineral salts. The juicy guava fruit and vibrant acidity harmonize well, and are nicely enveloped by, the wine's luscious texture. Finely balanced, with suggestions of brown spices on the long finish.

27 2004 Dr. Deinhard Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Spatlese: Pale golden-yellow color. Withdrawn aromas of papaya, ginger and wintergreen. The sweet pink grapefruit flavor is laced with toasted almond. Nicely balanced Dr. Deinhard Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Gewurztraminer Spatlese: Golden yellow. Opulent aromas of rose petal, sweet smoke and basil. The succulently sweet passion fruit and Christmas spice flavors are held together by a salty mineral frame. Unctuous, deep and impressively long. Koehler-Ruprecht, Kallstadt: The affable Bernd Philippi is one of the most unusual characters in the Pfalz, just like his wines, which are made in a thoroughly traditional and yet very individual style.as he clarifies his musts stringently, and prefers small casks for his spatlese and auslese bottlings, the rieslings often continue fermenting well into the summer following the harvest.the results are amazingly long-lived wines with body and power, but these wines can be rather eccentric in their youth and need time to develop fully.witness the legendary 1990 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken or the magnificent 1998 Kallstadter Saumagen Auslese "R" (I score it 95 points), which was only recently released.none of the finer 2004s had been released at press time.(terry Theise) Also recommended: 2004 Kallstadter Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2003 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spatlese Trocken (88), 2003 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken: Smoky aromas of candied pear and lemon oil. Glossy fruit offers nice depth while carrying little excess weight. Pleasing balance of residual sugar and acidity. Old-fashioned in style, this wine should mature nicely Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken: Herbal aromas of apple blossom, sweet smoke and clove. Harmonious flavors of sweet peach pit flavor and chalky minerality. A hint of spice on the end adds nuance Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spatlese: Pale golden-straw color. Yellow plum, ginger and toasted almond dominate the nose. The rather velvety palate exudes a rich peachy fruit flavor and lively spicy acidity, but the wine's luscious sweetness will need time to integrate. Time in bottle may bring more length Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese: Golden yellow. Rich aromas of candied pineapple and brown spices, plus a touch of lemon oil. The palate offers rich, creamy papaya fruit but little obvious botrytis character. An understated acidity provides elegance, but this wine is still quite closed. Persistent, cinnamon-laced finish. My score may prove to be conservative.

28 Herbert Messmer, Burrweiler: This estate began making a name for itself about 15 years ago at a time when many of the betterknown producers from the Mittelhaardt were underperforming.however, not only is competition tougher today, but neither the 2002 nor 2003 vintages here were quite up to my expectations.the 2004 vintage is not stellar, but the new crop of wines puts Gregor Messmer back on firm footing.as is often the case, though, the dry wines for which this estate is known in Germany are seldom exported to the States.(Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Herbert Messmer Burrweiler Schlossgarten Spatburgunder Spatlese Trocken Grosses Gewachs: Discreet aromas of ripe pear, flint and vanilla. Displays a velvety texture, with sweet peach fruit flavor laced with complex Indian spices. Rich and long on the finish Herbert Messmer Weyher Michelsberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken Grosses Gewachs: Subtle aromas of white peach, persimmon and acacia blossom. The rich muskmelon fruit gives way to a roughly hewn mineral character and a spicy finish that also features some herbal nuances. Pleasantly long Herbert Messmer Burrweiler Schlossgarten Spatburgunder Spatlese Trocken Grosses Gewachs: Opulent aromas of ripe plum, blueberry and smoked bacon. Sweet cherry fruit shows a satiny, mouthfilling texture. Finishes suave and long, with ripe tannins. Müller-Catoir, Haardt: Muller-Catoir is certainly one of the most impressive estates in Germany, not only in terms of architecture but also in terms of wine quality.however, when Hans-Gunter Schwarz, who for nearly 40 years had almost single-handedly shaped the style of the wines produced here, retired after the magnificent 2001 vintage, it was clear that he would be a hard act to follow.his successor, Martin Franzen, who hails from the Mosel, then bottled a range of delicately light 2002s that had little in common with what I had tasted here before.vintage 2003 was noticeably better, producing wines with more body and better vineyard delineation, but it is only in 2004 that he seems to have hit his stride.the dry rieslings still do not show the depth they had before, but the spatlese and auslese bottlings display an elegance that they had seldom ever possessed.and the beerenauslese and trockenbeerenauslese bottlings are not only the best produced in the Pfalz in this vintage, but also among the finest produced in all of Germany.(Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2004 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2004 Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spatlese Trocken (85), 2004 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Kabinett (87), 2004 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Spatlese Trocken (87), 2004 Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spatlese (87), 2004 Haardter Burgergarten Muskateller Kabinett Trocken (88), 2004 Haardter Burgergarten Im Breumel Riesling Spatlese Trocken (88), 2004 Haardter Burgergarten Im Aspen Riesling Spatlese Trocken (88(+?)), 2004 Neustadter Monchgarten Weisser Burgunder Spatlese Trocken (88), 2004 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Spatlese (88), 2004 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese (88(+?)).

29 2004 Muller-Catoir Haardter Herrenletten Grauburgunder Spatlese Trocken: Heady aromas of cantaloupe and smoked meats. Rich, creamy papaya fruit shows a sweet note and good ripeness for the vintage, with understated acidity. Finishes complex and long, with unctuous depth and a hint of nutmeg Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese Im Gehren Trocken: Lively aromas of white peach, candied lemon and woodsmoke. Dense apricot pit fruit boasts bright, nicely balanced acidity that gives thrust and grip to the wine's spicy finish. Still closed, but offers nice potential. This is the finest of the estate's dry rieslings this year Muller-Catoir Mussbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Spatlese: Spicy aromas of passion fruit, mango and pineapple. The succulent tropical fruit flavors and creamy texture are quite exotic in character. But the wine's acidity is nicely interwoven with its fruit and is just sufficient to give freshness to what is otherwise a rich, distinctly unctuous finish. Very good length Muller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spatlese: Blackcurrant, peach preserves and mint on the nose. Rich, candied apricot fruit overwhelms the ripe, nicely integrated acidity, giving the wine great generosity and pliancy on the palate. Sweet herbs and a whiff of exotic spices provide freshness on the long, sweet finish Muller-Catoir Mussbacher Eselshaut Riesling Auslese: Subtle aromas of yellow plum, apricot and acacia honey, with a hint of smoky botrytis. Intense, juicy peach stone fruit and saline citricity keep this rather honeyed wine bright. Rich layers of candied pineapple, toasted almond and lemon oil unfold on the long, ethereal finish. 93 Points 2004 Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Auslese: Opulent bouquet of muskmelon, candied apricot and exotic spices. Intensely flavored and creamy in texture, with rich tropical fruit flavors are both jammy and tart. The wine's incredible weight and depth are reminiscent of a beerenauslese. Long, complex finish features mineral salts and lemon oil Points 2004 Muller-Catoir Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Auslese (half bottle): Luscious aromas of pineapple, acacia honey and exotic spices. The rich, creamy tropical fruit is invigorated by bright crisp acidity that keeps the wine light in spite of its substantial weight. Boasts excellent concentration on the long, complex finish, which throws off notes of apricot pit, honeyed mango and clove. Very impressive. 93 Points 2004 Muller-Catoir Gimmeldinger Schlossel Rieslaner Beerenauslese: Quite smoky on the nose, with aromas of caramelized peach, acacia honey and lemon oil wafting over spicy botrytis. Viscous and intensely flavored, with bright pit fruits and tantalizing minerality imploding on the palate. The complex, resinous finish is keep alive by sweet herbs, lime zest and nut oil. 94 Points

30 2004 Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Rieslaner Beerenauslese: Extremely elegant in its aromatics, with candied passion fruit, quince and lemon oil highlighted by spicy botrytis. The dense, velvety and honeyed texture somehow remains almost ethereal, as it's lifted by a delicate, clove-driven minerality. The multifaceted finish of peach preserves, nuts oil and cinnamon displays incredible persistence. Certainly one of the wines of the vintage, and a beerenauslese with enormous potential Points 2004 Muller-Catoir Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese: Dried apricot, lemon zest and brown spice aromas drowned in smoky botrytis. The rich, dense, jammy tropical fruits are glazed with honey, but the wine vibrates with an intensity that hints at the enormous minerality that's currently hidden by the unctuous texture. Again, one of the most stunning wines of the vintage. Still closed, but with decades of life in front of it. 97 Points 2004 Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Eiswein (half bottle): Musky aromas of peach pit, acacia blossom and lemon oil. The delicately polished pineapple fruit and surprisingly creamy texture of this eiswein are offset by a salty minerality that hints at the wine's underlying complexity. Still youthfully closed, but bright, crisp and spicy on the long aftertaste Points 2003 Vintage Ports 2003 Warres Vintage Port: Deep ruby. Brooding aromas of blackberry, black cherry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Broad, dense and deep, with compelling purity, lift and sweetness and captivating flavors of black cherry, dark chocolate and minerals. Finishes with broad, sweet tannins and superb chewiness and length. Has the structure and depth for extended cellaring. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL) 92 Points New Releases From California 2003 Calera Wine Company Chardonnay Central Coast: Restrained aromas of apple, pear skin and nuts. Subdued and quite dry but rich on the palate, with fruit-driven flavors of peach, apple, melon and apricot nicely framed by harmonious acidity. Finishes slightly warm but firm Calera Wine Company Pinot Noir Central Coast: Medium red. Aromas of raspberry, cherry skin, chocolate, smoke and underbrush. Sappy and spicy in the mouth, with tangy flavors of red berries, cherry skin, tarragon, chocolate and loamy earth. A very good vintage for this basic bottling.

31 2001 Calera Wine Company Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard Mount Harlan: Medium red, with some development at the rim. Musky aromas of strawberry and raspberry. Dusty, tactile and dry, with tightly wound flavors of red berries, minerals and herbs. Pungent, slightly dryedged pinot in need of another year or two in the bottle. This gained in size and breadth with extended aeration Points 2001 Calera Wine Company Pinot Noir Selleck Mount Harlan: Moderately saturated bright red. Captivating, nuanced nose melds cherry liqueur, floral high tones, minerals, leather and smoky, earthy underbrush. Bright, juicy and uncompromisingly dry, with a complex minerality rare for California pinot noir. Finishes with dusty tannins and lingering cherry perfume. Better suited to Burgundy lovers than to fans of new-style California pinot. Also tasted: 2004 Vin Gris de Pinot Noir Central Coast Cline Cellars Zinfandel Ancient Vines Contra Costa County: Bright red-ruby. Reduced aromas of red berries, smoke, gunflint and espresso. Rich, sweet and creamy, with pliant, mouthfilling flavors of blackberry, raspberry and milk chocolate. Fat, satisfying zinfandel with smooth tannins and noteworthy breadth. A great value. Also tasted: 2003 Cool Climate Syrah Sonoma Coast, 2003 Los Carneros Syrah Carneros Clos Pegase Chardonnay Mitsuko's Vineyard Carneros: Bright yellow-gold color. Full-blown aromas of apricot and peach compote. Fat, round and sweet, with pineapple and honey flavors. In a rather oily, unrestrained style. Also tasted: 2002 Chardonnay Hommage Artist Series Reserve Mitsuko's Vineyard Carneros*, 2003 Pinot Noir Mitsuko's Vineyard Carneros Napa Valley, 2001 Merlot Mitsuko's Vineyard Carneros Napa Valley, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Hommage Estate Bottled Napa Valley. 85 Points 2003 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc St. Helena: Good, deep ruby-red. Aromas of blackcurrant, blueberry, licorice, mint and nutty oak, along with hints of band-aid and green pepper. Dense, lush and sweet, with juicy acidity framing the slightly leafy berry fruit. Finishes slightly dry-edged Crocker & Starr Meritage Napa Valley Stone Place Cuvee: Bright ruby-red. Pure aromas of cassis, licorice, minerals and bitter chocolate. Dense, dry and firm, with good minty lift to the intense black fruit, licorice and mineral flavors. Offers a nicely restrained sweetness and a light touch. A seriously structured wine that finishes with broad, palate-saturating tannins and noteworthy persiste Points

32 2003 DuMOL Chardonnay Russian River Valley: Medium yellow-gold. Aromas of honey, smoky oak, hazelnut, clove and lanolin. Fat and full, with leesy, nutty, buttery flavors of peach, vanilla and clove nicely framed by a firm spine of acidity. Finishes harmonious and persistent DuMOL Chardonnay Isobel Green Valley Russian River Valley: Brooding herbal/minty nose showed a mineral character as it opened, along with notes of pepper and asparagus. Juicy, high-pitched and lightly herbaceous, with an intriguing whiff of green tea. Quite different in texture from the basic RRV bottling: less influenced by oak and more sharply delineated. A bit youthfully green on the end Points 2003 DuMOL Chardonnay Chloe Russian River Valley: Pale yellow-gold. Subdued aromas of apricot, orange and nutty oak. Sweet, broad and ripe; shows less immediate verve than the Isobel but more ripeness and depth of flavor. And there's good firm acidity underneath. The back end is fine-grained, bright, complex and long Points 2003 DuMOL Pinot Noir Russian River Valley: Good full red. Black cherry and charred oak on the nose. Sweet and juicy, with dark raspberry and minty flavors nicely framed by healthy acidity. Finishes oaky and persistent. This has good fruit but could use a bit more complexity DuMOL Pinot Noir Ryan Russian River Green Valley: Good bright medium red. Aromas of black cherry, licorice, herbs and charred oak; more complex than the RRV but also more musclebound. Then structured and firm-edged but a bit ungiving on the palate, with flavors of raspberry and bitter chocolate. Finishes with slightly dry tannins Points 2003 DuMOL Pinot Noir Finn Russian River Valley: Good dark red. Pungently aromatic nose combines currant, black cherry, cocoa powder, flowers, mint and tarry oak. Chewy, juicy and intense, with concentrated flavors and solid underlying structure. Conveys more inner-mouth aromatic character than DuMol's other 2003 pinots. Solid acids give this a sappy character. Finishes firmly tannic but not dry, with very good length Points 2003 DuMOL Syrah Russian River Valley: Bright, deep ruby-red. High-toned aromas of violet pastille, chocolate, eucalyptus, pepper and mint. Sweet, fresh and peppery in the mouth, with bright acids framing the dark raspberry and bitter chocolate flavors. This offers very good verve. Finishes with dusty, building tannins that showed a bit of dryness with aeration Points

33 2003 DuMOL Syrah Eddie's Patch Russian River Valley: Full ruby-red. Subdued but pure aromas of black fruits and licorice. Sweet, dense and primary, with nicely integrated acids giving power to the black raspberry fruit. Still a bit grapey and unevolved, but sweet and pliant. The mounting finish features substantial tannins that will require at least a couple years of bottle aging Points 2002 Girard Winery Red Wine Napa Valley: Medium ruby. Superripe aromas of black raspberry and espresso. Ripe and lively on the palate, with flavors of roasted black raspberry, chocolate, herbs and sweet oak. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and solid structure Girard Winery Zinfandel Old Vine Napa Valley: Medium red. Aromas of currant, plum, spices and tobacco leaf. Round and supple, with claret-like flavors of currant, black cherry, tobacco, spices and herbs. A rather easygoing but juicy and firm-edged style of zinfandel with medium body and smooth tannins. Not at all fat or over the top. These vineyards are planted at an altitude of 2,750 feet, at the top of Mt. Veeder. Also tasted: 2004 Chardonnay Russian River Valley Hyde De Villaine (HDV) Chardonnay Carneros: Peach skin color. Subtle, cool aromas of citrus fruits and herbs. Dense, brisk and minerally but pliant, with fleshy fruit flavors of citrus, apple and pear. Lingering finishing flavors of orange, stones and spicy oak Hyde De Villaine (HDV) Red Wine Carneros: Ruby-red. Slightly medicinal nose gives a somewhat disjointed sweet/green impression, with notes of licorice and bitter chocolate. Juicy and slightly green-edged in the mouth yet reasonably sweet and fleshy, with notes of chocolate and herbs. A dry, firm, soil-inflected wine with a rather odd mixture of aromas and flavors Hyde De Villaine (HDV) Red Wine Carneros: Red-ruby. Aromas of raspberry, menthol, espresso and fresh herbs. A juicy, sappy wine with a light touch, despite the fact that the label says 14.1% alcohol. Essentially in an understated style but offers good creamy depth. Finishes with fine tannins and an herbal nuance Hyde De Villaine (HDV) Syrah Carneros: Deep red-ruby. Musky, wild aromas of espresso, meat, tobacco leaf, licorice and mint. Generous, supple and creamy in the mouth, with subtle notes of leather, pepper and spices. This offers lovely varietal character and length. Perhaps the most convincing syrah vintage to date under this label.

34 2002 Hendry Vineyard Zinfandel Block 28 Napa Valley: Red-ruby. Aromas of black fruits and gunflint, with strong scotch tones emerging with air. Round, spicy and sweet, with oaky flavors of crunchy dark berries and spice cake. Fat and sweet on the ripely tannic finish. Also tasted: 2003 Chardonnay Hendry Blocks 9 & 21 Napa Valley, 2003 Pinot Noir Hendry Blocks 4 & 5 Napa Valley, 2003 Hendry Vineyard Red Wine Napa Valley, 2001 Hendry Block 8 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 2003 Hendry Block 7 Zinfandel Napa Valley Kuleto Estate Zinfandel Napa Valley: Red-ruby. Spicy dark berries and a resiny nuance on the high-toned nose. Very sweet, creamy and exotic in the mouth, with flavors of dark berries and orange peel. Fat and stuffed with fruit. Long finish features dusty but sweet tannins. Also tasted: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 2003 Syrah Napa Valley Morgan Winery Chardonnay Double L Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands: Subdued nose hints at smoked meat and nutmeg. Juicy, spicy and intense, with fresh pineapple and lemon flavors framed by harmonious acids. Supple but with good cut. (I was less enthusiastic about the 2003, which showed warm, oak-influenced finishing notes of caramel and cognac and merited 86 points.) 2004 Morgan Winery Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineayrds Santa Lucia Highland: Exotic, creamy aromas of tropical fruits, butterscotch, brioche and vanillin oak. Then quite firm in the mouth, with a pronounced scotch-like quality from the oak. Finishes with an edge of acidity and some dryness from the oak. (I found the 2003 version of this wine to be sweeter and lusher, with less obvious oak and more fruit; this wine merited 89 points.) 2003 Morgan Winery Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands: Deep red. Superripe aromas of sweet strawberry and raspberry. Then almost shockingly sweet in the mouth, but with enough acidity to give definition to the red fruit and spice flavors. Finishes firmly tannic and long. Not the last word in complexity but this is a real fruit bomb Morgan Winery Pinot Noir Double L Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands: Bright red. Sexy sandalwood and rose petal notes perk up fruit-driven aromas of strawberry, raspberry and cherry. Dense but light on its feet, with lively flavors of red berries, red cherry and flowers. The wine's sweetness is nicely complemented by a bit of oaky torrefaction. Not quite complex enough for 90 points, but this is enticing pinot Morgan Winery Pinot Noir Twelve Clones Santa Lucia Highlands: Good bright red. Musky aromas of currant, chocolate, smoke and earth. Dense, supple and creamy, with musky flavors of spicy raspberry and espresso. This boasts lovely life in the mouth. Finishes with ripe tannins and lingering sweet oak. Also tasted: 2004 Chardonnay Monterey*, 2003 Chardonnay Rosella's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands*.

35 2003 Shafer Vineyard Merlot Napa Valley: Good red-ruby color. Wild aromas of bitter cherry, spice cake, tobacco, meat and leather; conveys a strong impression of soil. Supple, pliant and deep; round but firm. This boasts a lovely sugar/acid balance and firm underlying structure. Intriguing hints of minerals, fresh herbs, leather, tobacco and mint on the long finish. Merlot with real personality, which is hard to find in California Shafer Vineyard Relentless Red Wine Napa Valley: Good full ruby. Musky aromas of bitter chocolate and espresso turned oakier with aeration. Bright, penetrating black raspberry fruit offers excellent intensity but comes across as a bit hard-edged. Turned a bit drier on the back end under its load of oak Shafer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select Napa Valley: Saturated ruby. Brooding aromas of blackberry, cassis, bitter chocolate and truffle. Superripe, broad and layered; outsized and dense but not heavy. The fruit flavors are extremely ripe but not roasted. Finishes with huge, sweet, toothcoating tannins and outstanding persistence. Still a baby but already wonderfully focused. A great, full-flavored example of Napa Valley cabernet. 95 Points 2002 Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley: Ruby-red. Oaky aromas of black cherry and baking spices. Sweet, pliant flavors of redcurrant and baking spices, with a chocolate mint character emerging as the wine opened in the glass. Finishes with slightly rough, broad tannins and lingering spice character Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Limited Reserve: Saturated ruby color. Brooding aromas of cassis and bitter chocolate. Concentrated, even a bit gritty, with heavily extracted flavors of cassis, dark chocolate and black pepper. A rather powerful if inelegant style. Finishes with slightly raw, building tannins and very good breadth Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Solo Stags Leap District Napa Valley: Bright, saturated red-ruby. Aromas of black fruits, menthol, coffee and mocha. Then surprisingly sweet, supple and seamless, with enticing dark fruits and spicy oak spreading over the palate. Broad and creamy; seems distinctly more pliant and graceful than the Limited bottling. Finishes with toothcoating tannins and very good breadth. Also tasted: 2002 Merlot Napa Valley Truchard Vineyard Roussanne Carneros Napa Valley: Aromas of lemon, honey, earth, flowers and lanolin. Densely packed and juicy, with firm-edged flavors of peach skin and pear. I would have scored this even higher were it not for the rather pronounced oakiness.