LANGUEDOC and ROUSSILLON. Languedoc. I. Languedoc and its Viticultural History

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1 LANGUEDOC and ROUSSILLON Although Languedoc and Roussillon were joined administratively in 1972, they are historically, culturally and topographically two distinct regions. They will be discussed in turn. Languedoc The name of the Languedoc region itself references the langue d Oc or the language of Oc, also known as Occitan. Oc in this language means yes. Elders and some scholars of language still speak Occitan, but it is nothing like French. A speaker of Occitan and a speaker of French will not be able to communicate. Interpreting this land of yes in its broadest sense, you might say that the Languedoc represents a land of opportunity. This has certainly been proven the case for vine and vine grower alike. I. Languedoc and its Viticultural History Ancient History In 600 BC, the Phocaeans (ancient Greeks from Asia Minor) landed in the south of France and founded Massalia (Marseille), which is the modern-day heart of Provence. It is also France s oldest city. Massalia thrived as one of the most important trading ports of the entire Mediterranean Sea. The Phocaeans brought vines with them and introduced formal viticulture which spread quickly throughout the entire southern portion of France. The Romans arrived in 125 BC and built the first road in France, the Via Domitia, which connected Italy to Spain. Vineyards were planted on both sides of this thoroughfare and the road became the main axis for the Languedoc wine trade. Dionysos, Greek God of Wine Between 125 BC and 118 BC, the Romans colonized the strategically-located port city of Narbo (Narbonne) at the mouth of the Aude River, southwest of Montpellier. Narbo was located on the Via Domitia, the Aude River and the Mediterranean. This triangulation enabled cargo to pass from sea to river to land and vice versa and the port of Narbonne became very important due to its link to the prosperous city of Carcassonne and the interior. To place Narbonne on the vineyard map, it is surrounded by the wine producing areas of Corbières, Minervois and La Clape. The vine took so well to this landscape that a nearly immediate wine surplus was exported to Rome. However, under the edict of Domitius, wine trade was hastily curtailed by the Roman Empire in an effort to protect local Roman produce and goods. Languedoc s viticultural expansion was stymied. Middle Ages In the 8 th century, the monasteries re-vitalized viticulture, vineyards expanded and grape cultivation was given a more structured approach. But the Catholic Church itself was the prime consumer of the wines it made. 209

2 From 1204 to 1349, the Languedoc city of Montpellier was considered part of the Aragon Empire and was ruled by Barcelona. Interestingly, in 1285, Arnaud de Villeneuve, a physician/alchemist in Montpellier, discovered the art of mutage, the process of adding spirit to must to obtain a stable sweet wine. A huge trade in vins doux naturels ensued 400 years before port was created! But Montpellier is important for another reason as well. Montpellier University of Pharmacy Seal In 1289, the University of Montpellier was officially established by the Roman Catholic Church through an edict issued by Pope Nicholas IV. Under this edict, the various and long-standing schools within the city were grouped together as an universitas magistrorum et scholarium or a community of professors and scholars". This is the root of the modern-day concept of university. Records show that there was a school for both law and medicine in Montpellier as early as the 1130 s. There were even institutes known for research and development in the field of grape growing and the University of Montpellier is still at the forefront of French viticulture and enology today. Renaissance The Renaissance gave birth to all manner of innovation. The monks of St. Hilaire discovered the sparkling phenomenon in 1531 while crafting Blanquette de Limoux 150 years before Dom Pérignon tasted the stars in Champagne. In 1681, the Canal du Midi opened, connecting the Mediterranean port of Sète to the Garonne River in Toulouse. The Garonne then flowed to the Port of Bordeaux and the Gironde Estuary, and from there to the Atlantic. The 150-milelong canal (240 km) was over two decades in the making (1667 to 1694) and represents an incredible feat of engineering. In fact, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in The Canal du Midi provided a shortcut from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic by bypassing all of Spain. Unfortunately, savvy Bordelais wine merchants who were in control of the port of Bordeaux were able to enact laws preventing the sale of Languedoc wines to other French and European markets. The Canal du Midi ( ) 210

3 During the 17 th century, Languedoc s prime trading partner was the Dutch who sought sweet wine in quantity. (The dessert wines of Bordeaux were significantly more expensive making Languedoc s offerings financially quite appealing.) By the 18 th century, however, most of Languedoc s production was dry and white and destined for brandy production to supply the Napoleonic armies. Modern Times The protectionist policies of the Bordelais were rescinded in 1776 and once again Languedoc began to envision trade via canal connection to the Atlantic. From a second canal was constructed linking Toulouse to the city of Castets just south of the port city of Bordeaux. The 120-mile/192-km waterway ran parallel to the Garonne. The canal was deemed necessary as it was much easier to transport goods on a tranquil waterway rather than the temperamental river currents of the Garonne. Of greater consequence, however, was the opening of the French Railway between Paris, Lyon and Marseille in On rail, the plentiful, easy-drinking, and inexpensive table wines of the Languedoc could make their way throughout northern France and on to neighboring countries at low cost and previously unimagined speed. As a result, wine production in the Languedoc quadrupled over the next 25 years. In 1863, phylloxera hit the area hard and during a time of vineyard expansion. The vineyards of Europe were decimated by this pest until it was found that grafting the European vine stock onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstock would effectively nullify the scourge. The Languedoc was the first of the French wine regions to be replanted on American rootstocks. Thanks to their rapid re-planting, the Languedoc became a source of French wine while other French wine regions were still ripping out phylloxera-infested vines. By 1900, the Languedoc had become France s #1 supplier of wine; the region was responsible for nearly half of the country s total production. Claude ROMA The Co-operative of Maraussan The development of local winemaking cooperatives in the 1930s became a strong force within the industry and led to a tradition of bulk vin de table production. This business model allowed small growers to cooperatively use a member-owned winery for production purposes. Either the producer vinified his own crop and bottled it separately from other co-op members, or member growers combined their crops and vinified one product which was sold jointly. The first French wine co-op was created in 1905 in Maraussan near Montpellier. Today, there are approximately 150 co-operatives in Languedoc, and they are responsible for 65% of the wine production in the region. Very few growing areas within Languedoc received AOC status early on. Winemaking focus was on quantity not quality at the time, but this has since changed. In 1968, the Vins de Pays category was introduced in France. The idea was to allow the wine producer the flexibility to experiment outside the relatively restrictive structure of the AOC system. Many French wine 211

4 regions were slow to adopt the concept, but Languedoc-Roussillon embraced it with special enthusiasm. International varieties were planted throughout the 1970s. Then, in 1972, Languedoc and Roussillon were officially administratively joined. Together, the two regions comprise the largest winemaking region in southern France. Though distinct in terms of culture and landscape, these two regions share the same grape varieties. As a result of their administrative union, the regional Vins de Pays d Oc (now IGP Pays d Oc) and the regional Languedoc AOC can incorporate grapes from both Languedoc and Roussillon. Vins de Pays or VdP (Country Wines of France) became an official classification in New legislation in 2009 changed the name and the parameters of this category. Vins de Pays are now called IGPs (Indication Géographique Protégée/Protected Geographical Indication). Their winemaking and grape-growing practices are regulated, but not as strictly as those standards adhered to by AOC producers. Current maximum yields are 5 tons per acre (90hl/ha) and, as a result of the 2009 legislation, there is now a direct link between IGPs and their area of origin under the INAO something that didn t exist under the old VdP regulations. Today, France has over 150 IGP designations, but by far the most important is IGP Pays d Oc. Over 220,000 acres/88,000 ha produce this designation. It represents three times the volume of the Languedoc AOCs, 65% of Languedoc-Roussillon s IGP production and 58% of France s total IGP production. IGP Pays d Oc is France s largest wine export. In the 1980s, in a return to terroir, different growing areas began applying for and achieving AOC status. In 1982, there were only ten appellations in the Languedoc-Roussillon, now there are approximately fifty. Interestingly, some AOC laws preserved tradition by authorizing use of indigenous and historic Spanish grape varieties such as Carignan and Mourvèdre while others have authorized non-traditional Bordelais grape varieties. Despite the fact that the AOCs are gathering momentum and increasing their market share, the IGP-level wines still represent the main volume of wine production within the Languedoc-Roussillon. The figures are telling: Production: 21% = AOC 73% = IGP 6% = Vins Sans IG And although many single-varietal IGP wines occupy retail shelves at the entry price level and have led to public perception that the category is inferior to AOC wine, this is not strictly the case. There are a growing number of premium wines which fall outside the AOC laws, either for geographical or experimental reasons, and are classified under the IGP banner. In addition, some of the region s top wines and flagship estates produce wines under the IGP designation giving much credibility to the whole category. 212

5 II. Location and Climate of Languedoc Out of all the winemaking areas in the southern portion of France, the Languedoc is the largest and most productive. Location The Languedoc covers four French départements from north to south: Lozère, Gard, Hérault, and Aude. The Languedoc region is located on France s south-western Mediterranean coastline and is bordered by the Rhône Valley to the north-east, and Roussillon to the south. Three-fourths of the region is cradled by mountain ranges, the other fourth is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea. Climate: Mediterranean The region essentially experiences two seasons: mild winters and hot, dry summers. There is plentiful sunshine: 2,530 hours (~316 days/365). Rainfall averages 27 inches/686 mm per annum but arrives in the form of violent storms that can flood the parched landscape. The rainy season bookends the summer months. If rainfall happens too early in the fall, it can devastate a harvest. This happened in Although sea winds bring unwanted moisture to the vineyards, the Tramontane and Mistral, strong winds that blow from the north, serve as counterbalance. Both north winds bring cool air during the summer months and chase humidity, thereby offsetting the onset of molds and mildews in the vineyard. The hot, sunny, dry climate enables the grapevine to thrive, yielding plentiful, ripe crops each harvest. However, more concentrated wines generally hail from areas where the vine experiences true winter dormancy, cooler summers and significant diurnal temperature swings. In the Languedoc this is found in the more mountainous areas. III. Geology, Topography & Soils of Languedoc Geology The geology of the Languedoc (and Roussillon) is quite complex. Long ago (251 million to 145 million years ago), the area that now comprises Languedoc and Roussillon was covered by seawater. Shellfish lived, died and settled to the bottom of this sea to form limestone. Gradually, the waters receded leaving swamps, lakes and riverland. Sometime between million years ago, the Pyrenees and Alps were formed due to the collision of the Afro-Arabian and Euro-Asian crustal plates. Rocks within the earth s crust were buckled and bent and forced 213

6 to the surface. Fault systems developed around Alès and the Cévennes. At this time the Mediterranean basin was dry. During the Pliocene epoch (5 to 2 million years ago), the sill between Morocco and Gibraltar was breached by the Atlantic and the Mediterranean basin filled with water (invading portions of the Rhône). The Languedoc-Roussillon area was not flooded by the sea, nor was it marred by glaciers during the ensuing Ice Age, but it did receive extensive periods of rain which eroded the landscape and deposited new sedimentary soils on top of the older rock formations thrust upwards when the crustal plates had collided. As a result, the soils of Languedoc (and Roussillon) are a mix of very ancient and very new materials. Topography The Languedoc can be divided into three different topographical zones: the coastal plains (red), hillsides and mountains (green), and the Atlantic corridor (blue). The coastal plains stretch from Narbonne and Béziers to beyond Montpellier. This area is flat, low-lying and fertile. These alluvial plains are where the highest-yielding vines are situated, the grapes of which destined for entry-level IGP. The hinterland is characterized by mountains and hillsides with elevations of up to 1,320 feet (400 m) plus a wide variety of mesoclimates. 214

7 The mountains shelter the vineyards, trapping both heat and sun during the day, and providing cool air currents during the evening. The peaks also block rain and clouds (the rainshadow effect) allowing for a consistently sunny climate. Some of the vineyards protected by these mountain effects are Pic St. Loup, Cabardès, Minervois, St. Chinian, Limoux, Faugères, and Muscat de St. Jean de Minervois. The western extremity of the Languedoc, where the Atlantic and Mediterranean forces meet, is a zone apart climatically and is referred to as the Atlantic Corridor. It is here where we find Bordeaux varieties planted alongside their Mediterranean counterparts, often under an AOC banner. Pic St. Loup Vineyards Limoux, at the southern extremity of this corridor, requires a high proportion of Merlot for its red wines. However, this cool and elevated region is where the Atlantic breezes are most apparent and therefore it is the white and sparkling wines which have made this appellation famous. In sum, vineyards vary both in altitude and in proximity to the sea creating a vast array of growing conditions within the Languedoc. Soils Because of its complex geology, the soils of the Languedoc are varied. There are pockets of volcanic soils, many types of sedimentary soils both young and ancient, and plenty of rock. Mountain slopes tend to be comprised of stony shale and marly limestone. These ancient soils were once deep under the earth and were folded and pushed upwards when the Alps were formed. The limestone soils found here are known as "garrigue". They are so poor that they can only support resinous herbs such as lavender, thyme and rosemary and dwarf Kermès oak trees. (In fact, the name of the soil type is taken from the Occitan word garric meaning oak.) The vine, needing very few soil nutrients, can also survive on garrigue. This soil type is found throughout the south of France and is immediately visually and aromatically identifiable. The vast lowland plains and foothills are mostly comprised of younger sedimentary and/or alluvial soils such as iron-rich gravels, sand, marl, clay and silt. There are also pockets of granite, gneiss and schist. Alluvial soils tend to produce fruity wines and are often utilized for the production of whites and rosés. Sites comprised of granite, gneiss, marl, clay and schist provide a base for powerful, spicy red wines apt for aging. IV. The Grapes of Languedoc White AOC Grapes Languedoc-Roussillon works with a wide palette of white grape varieties. 215

8 Grenache Blanc Grenache Gris Bourboulenc Clairette Piquepoul Blanc Rolle Marsanne Roussanne Maccabeu Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc Mauzac Chardonnay Chenin Blanc Red AOC Grapes Carignan forms the historic backbone to the red blend and is accompanied by Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache in the most famous appellations such as Faugères, St. Chinian, Fitou, Minervois, and Corbières. In the newer AOCs, those established in the last 20 years, Syrah and Grenache tend to dominate the red blends while others incorporate Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. Up until recently, these Bordelais varieties were only permitted in IGP bottlings. Grenache Noir Carignan Mourvèdre Syrah Cinsault Fer Servadou (also known as Fer): an increasingly minor player Lladoner Pelut: an increasingly minor player Piquepoul Noir: an increasingly minor player Terret Noir: an increasingly minor player Aspiran Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Merlot Malbec Pinot Noir IGP Grapes All varieties permitted in the AOC red, white and rosé wines are also permitted in IGP-level wines plus a few more. Larger scale winemakers lean towards the international varieties rather than the local varieties because name-recognition on varietally-labeled bottles make them easier to sell. There are currently 56 grape varieties have been approved for IGP wines. Those grapes that may not be incorporated into AOC wines are underlined. Primary Grapes for Red Wine: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Cinsault, Côt (Malbec), Gamay Noir, Grenache Noir, Marselan, Merlot Noir, Mondeuse, Morrastel, Mourvèdre, Muscat à Petits Grains Rouges, Négrette, Nielluccio (Sangiovese), Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Portan, Syrah, Tempranillo. Secondary Grapes for Red Wine: Carignan, Chenanson Noir, Alicante Bouschet. Primary Grapes for Rosé Wine: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Cinsault, Clairette Rosé, Côt (Malbec), Gamay Noir, Gewurztraminer Rosé, Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir, Marselan, Merlot Noir, Mondeuse, Morrastel, 216

9 Mourvèdre, Muscat à Petits Grains Rouges, Muscat de Hambourg, Négrette, Nielluccio (Sangiovese), Petit Verdot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Portan, Sauvignon Gris, Syrah, Tempranillo. Secondary Grapes for Rosé Wine: Carignan, Chenanson Noir. Primary Grapes for White Wine: Altesse Blanc, Bourboulenc, Chardonnay, Chasan, Chenin, Colombard, Gewurztraminer Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Gros Manseng, Maccabeu, Marsanne, Mauzac, Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc, Muscat d Alexandrie, Petit Manseng, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Sémillon, Sylvaner, Terret Blanc, Rolle (Vermentino), Viognier. Secondary Grapes for White Wine: Carignan Blanc, Clairette Blanc, Picpoul Blanc, Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano). In addition to this expanded list of approved grape varieties, some specific regulations about wine labeling have gone into effect. Non-varietally labeled wines must consist of more than 50% primary grapes and less than 50% secondary grapes in each respective wine category. Wines may be varietally labeled with a single cépage if that cépage is a primary grape. Varietal wines must contain a minimum of 85% of the grape listed on the label. Wines can be labeled with several grape varieties if those grape varieties are principal grape varieties and if each constitutes at least 15% of the total. White grapes may be incorporated into red and rosé wine if red and white grape varieties are fermented together and if the white grapes constitute no more than 20% of the final blend. V. Languedoc AOCs, IGPs and Vins Sans IG As with most regions in France, the Languedoc has a hierarchy of wines within the AOC system. AOC/AOP Languedoc (2007) Created: Coteaux du Languedoc red, rosé (1982) and white (2005) became AOC Languedoc in 2007 Styles: Red (78%), White (12%) and Rosé (10%) Authorized Grape Varieties: o Red: Grenache Noir, Lledoner Pelut, Syrah, Mourvèdre (min. 50%), Cinsault, Carignan (max. 40%) o White: Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Rolle, Clairette, Picpoul The regional AOC Languedoc appellation was introduced in 2007 to replace the AOC Coteaux du Languedoc. AOC Languedoc represents a more extensive zone of production than the AOC Coteaux du Languedoc (which only covered terroirs in the central and northern Languedoc). Rather confusingly, the two names will continue to co-exist until AOC Coteaux du Languedoc disappears in Wines from AOC Languedoc have to be blends of at least two grape varieties (with the exception of districts such as AOC Clairette du Languedoc). The reds and rosés are based on the main varieties of Grenache (and its cousin Lladoner Pelut), Syrah and Mourvèdre. The whites are based on the major varieties listed above. Both styles can have secondary grape varieties included such as Carignan and Cinsault for reds and rosés, and Maccabeu and Viognier for whites. 217

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11 As in the past with AOC Coteaux du Languedoc, 14 different districts (dénominations géographiques complémentaires) can be added to the prefix AOC Languedoc. The 14 districts are as follows: 1. Grès de Montpellier 2. Pic St Loup 3. Terrasses du Larzac 4. Montpeyroux (independent AOC located within Terrasses du Larzac) 5. St Saturnin (independent AOC located within Terrasses du Larzac) 6. Pézenas 7. Cabrières 8. La Clape 9. Sommières 10. St. Christol 11. La Méjanelle 12. St Drézéry 13. St Georges d Orques 14. Quatorze * Terrasses de Béziers has applied to be a separate district but so far it has not been recognized by the INAO. Clairette Du Languedoc AOC (1948) Style: White Soils: Limestone with some quartz and schist in the north Grape Variety: Clairette This small AOC, together with Fitou, is the oldest still wine AOC in the Languedoc. Like its neighbor Picpoul de Pinet, this is the only other appellation in the Languedoc devoted solely to white wine production from one single grape variety: Clairette. Picpoul De Pinet AOC (2013) Style: White Soils: Limestone Grape Variety: Picpoul Vines descend down to the Etang de Thau (Lake of Thau), the only barrier between the vines and the sea. The climate is influenced by sea breezes which moderate temperatures. Most of the grapes are harvested by machine at night. Co-ops account for over 80% of production. Vineyards along the Etang de Thau Faugères AOC ( Red/Rosé, 2005 White) Style: Red (85%), Rosé (13%), White (2%) Soil: Schist Grape Varieties: o Red: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault o White: Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Vermentino, plus Bourboulenc and Clairette Faugères Vineyards The Faugères appellation nestles within the foothills of the Cévennes Mountains 12 miles/20 km north of Béziers. Vineyard parcels are tucked in between woodland, garrigue, escarpments and hills all planted on grey-white schist. This is predominately a red wine producing region. 219

12 Saint Chinian AOC (1982 Red and Rosé, 2005 White) Style: Red (89%), Rosé (10%), White (1%) Soils : Schist (north), Clay/Limestone (south) Grape Varieties: o Red: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Lladoner Pelut (min 70%), Carignan Cinsault o White: Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino (90%), balance from Carignan, Clairette, Viognier, Macabeu, Bourboulenc Saint-Chinian Roquebrun This appellation is sandwiched between the Minervois (located to the southwest) and Faugères, (situated to the northeast). It is planted mainly with red grapes and 99% of the production is either red or rosé. The three main varieties are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with a sizeable contribution by Lladoner Pelut. Two of the four Languedoc Cru appellations are found in Saint Chinian. Both are at the northern tip of the zone: Berlou to the west, Roquebrun to the east. Although the word Cru is not legally defined in the Languedoc-Roussillon, it does imply status and is used to describe a hierarchy and special attributes within the given terroir. Minervois AOC (1985) Style: Red (94%), White (2%) and Rosé (4%) Soils: Clay, limestone, some sandstone, marble and schist Grape Varieties: o Red: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre (min. 60%), Carignan, Cinsault, Terret, Aspiran, Piquepoul (max. 40%) o White: Marsanne, Roussanne, Macabeu, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Vermentino, Muscat à Petits Grains Minervois Vineyards The Minervois is situated north of the Canal du Midi between Carcassonne (to the west) and Narbonne (to the east). In contrast with its southerly neighbor, the Corbières, the wines of the Minervois tend to be Syrahbased with high proportions of Grenache and Mourvèdre. Minervois La Livinière is another of the four Languedoc Crus. (The other three are Saint Chinian Berlou, Saint Chinian Roquebrun and Corbieres-Boutenac.) La Livinière lies in the northern portion of the Minervois appellation in the foothills of the Montagne Noire. Corbières AOC (1985) Style: Red (95%), Rosé (3%), White (2%) Soils: predominantly limestone with schist, red clays, galets and marl Grape Varieties: o Red: Carignan (max. 50%), Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Lladoner Pelut, Cinsault, (max. 20% for red, max. 70% for rosé) Corbières 220

13 o White: Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc (Malvoisie), Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, Clairette, Terret, Muscat (max. 10%) The Corbières is the biggest, non-regional appellation in the Languedoc and the 4th largest in France. In total, it covers 43,000 acres/17,200 ha of which 29,500 acres /11,500 ha are planted to vine. The overwhelming majority of production is red and those reds are Carignan-based. The AOC takes its name from the jagged, limestone hills that dominate the region. Corbières Boutenac is one of the four Languedoc Crus. It lies nestled within the protective flanks of the Alaric Mountains to the northwest and the Massif de Fontfroide to the east. Fitou AOC (1948) Style: Red Soil: Clay/Limestone (Maritime region), Limestone/Sandstone (Haut Fitou) Grape Varieties: Carignan, Grenache, (min. 60%), Syrah, Mourvèdre AOC Fitou is one of the oldest appellations of the Languedoc. Geographically, it is an enclave of the Corbières. Fitou is divided into two sub-zones: Fitou Maritime (close to the coast) and Haut Fitou, (18 miles/30 km further inland, midst the mountains). Cabardès AOC (1999) Style: Red (90%) and Rosé (10%) Soils: Limestone with granite and gneiss on the higher slopes Grape Varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc (min. 40%), Syrah, Grenache (min. 40%), Côt (Malbec), Fer Servadou, Cinsault (max. 20%) The wind is noticeable in the Cabardès. This is where the cooler Atlantic breezes meet the more temperate and humid winds of the Mediterrranean. They blow alternately in an evenly divided struggle with neither triumphing over the other. Cabardès This climatic tie or honorable draw is reflected in the grape varieties permitted for the appellation. The Cabardès is the only AOC region in the Languedoc where there is an equal split between Mediterranean and Atlantic varieties. Malepère AOC (2007) Style: Red (80%) and Rosé (20%) Soil: Clay/Limestone Grape Varieties: Merlot (min. 50%), Côt (min. 20%), Cabernet Franc (min. 20%), Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, and Cinsault. Rosé must be a minimum 50% Cabernet Franc (and can incorporate Syrah, whereas the red Malepère cannot). 221

14 Malepère is the most westerly appellation of the Languedoc. It is flatter and more open than the other Atlantic-influenced appellations of Cabardès and Limoux, but is subject to the same cool westerly breezes. Here, it is common to find vineyards interspersed with other crops, notably cereals and sunflowers. Unlike Cabardès, Atlantic varieties make up the majority of the red blend here and Merlot (min. 50%) forms the backbone. Limoux AOCs Style: Red, White and Sparkling Soil: Limestone interspersed with some sandstone, quartz and clay Grape Varieties: o Red: Merlot, Côt, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan o White and Sparkling: Mauzac, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay Note: Pinot Noir is permitted for Crémant de Limoux sparkling, but not for AOC Limoux red. Limoux is the southernmost of the Atlantic corridor appellations and encompasses five different AOCs: 2 for still wines and 3 for sparkling wines. Blanquette De Limoux AOC (1938) Grape Varieties: min. 90% Mauzac, up to 10% Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay Blanquette de Limoux is the oldest sparkling wine in the world. The wines are aged 9 months sur lie and are made in either brut or demi-sec style. Malpère Vineyards in the Outskirts of Carcassonne Crémant De Limoux AOC (1990) Limoux Vineyards Grape Varieties: Chardonnay (min. 40%), Chenin Blanc (between 20-40%) with a max. 90% of both. Mauzac and/or Pinot Noir are allowed to complete the blend. Crémant undergoes a minimum of 15 months ageing sur lie. Although the legal blend is detailed above, in practice, most blends have a high proportion of Chardonnay (60% is common) Chenin Blanc (30%) with the balance in Mauzac. Pinot Noir is a new introduction and has only recently been used for the blends. A rosé style has been permitted since 2006 and is achieved by blending a maximum of 10% Pinot Noir to the assemblage. Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale AOC Grape Variety: 100% Mauzac This wine can be made in 2 distinct ways. 222

15 1. The partially fermented must is chilled in December and bottled in March under the waning moon. This produces a lightly sparkling wine which is slightly cloudy due to the yeast still present in the bottle. 2. The more modern approach is to chill the partially fermented must and then bottle with the addition of yeast (often in the form of alginate beads) and disgorge after a brief 2-3 month ageing period. Either way, according to AOC mandates, the finished wine must not exceed 7% alcohol. Residual sugar should lie between 6-8% (60-80g/l) and each bottle must undergo a minimum of two months ageing before release. The addition of yeast is allowed to initiate the second fermentation, but the addition of sugar syrup or yeast nutrients is forbidden. In addition, no liqueur d expedition is allowed. Limoux AOC (1993 White, 2004 Red) Grape Varieties: o Red: Merlot (min. 50%), Côt, Grenache, Syrah (min. 30%), Carignan (max. 10%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (up to 20%) o White: Mauzac, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc AOC/AOP regulations for white wines consist of: o o o o o o Allowance of 3 authorized grape varieties (Mauzac must be at least 15% of the vineyard area) Hand-harvesting Barrel fermentation Lees stirring Maturation in barrel Ageing in barrel until at least May following the vintage (min. 7 months) AOC/AOP regulations for the reds are slightly less strict and consist of: o o o A blend of at least 3 varieties with the percentages of each quite rigorously defined Machine or hand-harvesting Ageing in tank or barrel for a min. of 7 months The whites represent some of the best Chardonnay produced in the Languedoc. Production is small, but the overall quality level is very high. The red wines are more variable and tend to be tight and lean. Vins Doux Naturels AOCs: The Languedoc VDNs are all made from the same single variety, Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc. The fermenting must is fortified with a neutral grape spirit to finish the wine with a minimum of 11% (110g/l) residual sugar and between 15% and 18% alcohol by volume. The process of arresting a fermenting must through the addition of grape spirit is known as mutage. All Languedoc AOC VDN Muscats are harvested by hand and no irrigation is permitted for these wines. 223

16 These are some of France s most highly revered sweet, fortified wines. They are crafted from 100% Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc and all are made reductively. There are four AOCs: Muscat de Lunel AOC Muscat de Mireval AOC Muscat de Frontignan AOC Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois AOC The IGPs The IGPs enact strict regulations on all grape-growing, winemaking, and bottling methods, yet this provides significantly more freedom to winemakers than is found within AOC regulations. Although IGPs must come from a specific, demarcated zone of production, producers can pull from a larger pool of permitted grape varieties, they can make whatever style of wine they wish regardless of local or traditional AOC mandates, they can harvest at higher yields, use oak chips if desired, and they can put vintage plus the name of the grape variety on the label. There are three categories of IGP: Regional, Departmental or Local/Zonal. Regional IGP: IGP Pays d Oc is one of six IGP Regional Designations within France. Other regional IGPs from different parts of France include: IGP Val de Loire, IGP Atlantique, IGP Méditerranée, IGP Comté Tolosan, and IGP Comtés du Rhodaniens. IGP Pays d Oc, however, is France s single most important IGP accounting for nearly 40% of all French IGP production. Departmental IGP: There are over 50 such IGP in all of France. Three departments in the Languedoc have their own IGP. They are: IGP Aude, IGP Hérault, IGP Gard. All are predominantly sold in France. Local IGP (or IGP Zone): There are 93 such IGP. They are generally small in size. Examples in Languedoc: IGP Côtes de Thongue, IGP Mont Baudile. Vins Sans IG Vins Sans IG production is little controlled. There are no rules as to where the wine is sourced (as long as it is within the European Union), what grapes are used, at what yields, or how it is made. Naturally, yields are 224

17 extremely high, usually twice that of the AOCs. As minimal qualitative control, it must pass France s equivalent of the FDA standards for food consumption. Southern France is the number one producer of Vins Sans IG in France. VI. Viticultural Practices In the Languedoc, the traditional pruning method is the Gobelet or Goblet, but many vineyards are now switching to the Guyot training method as an alternative. As a rule, the vineyards tend to be east-west facing. This orientation provides maximum sun exposure to the entire vine canopy. As there is a high risk of drought during the growing season, irrigation is permitted through May (but the grower must submit a petition). Climate is such that Languedoc-Roussillon boasts 1,029 organic wine producers, the highest number of certified organic wine producers in France. It also has the largest certified organic area under vine 39,508 acres/16,462 ha and is showing significant annual growth. There was a 30% increase between 2009/2010. A combination of excellent climate, old vines, fierce winds and an open-minded and motivated core of growers has contributed to this exponential growth. In addition to those who are officially certified or in conversion, there are a number of producers who work organically or biodynamically but who have not applied for the registration. VII. When to Drink Languedoc Wines Most whites, rosés and light reds are made for immediate consumption. The Muscat-based Vins Doux Naturels are generally drunk young and fresh to capitalize on their gregarious fruit. Full-bodied reds follow the normal aging curve; modest bottlings will keep for 2-3 years, tannic reds will be best served with 5-7 years of bottle age while big reds from a banner year can hold a decade. VIII. Food Traditions Languedoc is known for its picholine olives, olive tapenades, anchovies, anchovy paste, Leucate oysters, sweet onions from Cévennes, Bleu des Causses (blue cheese), Pélardon (goat s milk cheese) and truffles. Like Roussillon, the cuisine is decidedly Mediterranean. Seafood dishes are accompanied by crisp still or sparkling whites from Limoux, Picpoul de Pinet or Clairette du Languedoc. Cassoulet is traditionally drunk with the Syrah-based wines of the Minervois while other meat dishes find plenty of table partners with the Carignan-based Corbières and gutsy reds from Fitou, Malpère, and Cabardès...just to name a few. Cassoulet 225

18 Naturally, the Muscat-based VDNs are delicious as dessert or paired with fruit and fruit desserts. Regional specialties include: Aligot: a puree made from potatoes, fresh tomme cheese and garlic, especially found in the Larzac Tielle Sétoise: octopus and tomato pie Tielle: octopus pie Brandade: salt cod whipped with olive oil and a little milk (can also be prepared in puff pastry) Cassoulet: a slow-cooked dish of pork, duck and lingot beans Petit Pâté de Pézenas : sweet, spiced mutton pies shaped like a cotton-reel Tielles Aligot Cassoulet Brandade Petits Pâtés de Pézenas Supplemental Materials: Learning Objectives/Review Questions Online at: 226

19 ROUSSILLON The overwhelming majority of Roussillon s production (75%) is produced by its 60 co-operative wineries. The region---rugged, wild and scarcely populated---is known for its fortified dessert wines. In fact, Roussillon produces 80% of all French Vins Doux Naturels. I. The Viticultural History of the Roussillon Ancient History Viticulture, introduced by the Phocaeans, was slower to take root in Roussillon than in Languedoc largely due to Roussillon s extremely rugged topography. The region is extremely mountainous. Middle Ages From the 13 th through the 18 th centuries, Roussillon was part of Spain; the region was first ruled by Majorca, then Aragon. Whereas Languedoc shed its Spanish mantel early on, Roussillon did not. Mountainous topography significantly limits travel and cultural exchange. For this reason, the five hundred years of Spanish rule left a legacy of Catalan language and culture that still exists today. Spain planted their native grapes in Roussillon. Spanish Carineña became known as Carignan in France; Spanish Mataro/Monastrell became Mourvèdre, Spanish Macabeo became Maccabeu. Even Lladoner Pelut, a more obscure grape variety found in Roussillon and Languedoc, is Spanish in origin. Spain s traditional winemaking styles (full-bodied, spicy, earthy reds and slightly oxidized whites) became mainstream winemaking styles in Roussillon also and were maintained until the end of the 1990s. Modern History Today, Roussillon is still considered French Catalogne. Perpignan is its principal city. Roussillon was among the last regions in France to begin temperature-controlled fermentation. New oak barrels are still considered a luxury. The first three AOCs of Roussillon (Rivesaltes, Banyuls and Maury) were established in These were followed in 1956 by the AOC Muscat de Rivesaltes, and then in 1962 by the AOC Banyuls Grand Cru. The first AOCs of Roussillon were all red and white Vins Doux Naturels. The first AOC for dry wines, Collioure, was established in 1971 (and at that time, only for dry reds). Perpignan 227

20 Today, Roussillon boasts 13 AOCs that utilize 15 different grape varieties to produce white, red, rosé and Vin Doux Naturel wines. As mentioned previously, IGP Pays d Oc and AOC Languedoc may include grapes grown in both Roussillon and Languedoc. II. Location and Climate Location Languedoc is due north of Roussillon; Spain and the Pyrénées are due south. To the east is the Mediterranean Sea and to the west lie the foothills of the Pyrénées. In fact, Roussillon lies within the Pyrénées-Orientales Département. There are approximately 84,000 acres/33,600 ha of vineyards in Roussillon (about three-fourths the surface area of the Languedoc), however, Roussillon produces approximately one-third the volume of the Languedoc. This is due to significantly lower yields. The rugged landscape and poor soils do not lend themselves to abundant crop loads. Climate: Mediterranean Roussillon is one of France s sunniest regions receiving an impressive 325 days of sunshine per year. As the west winds carry the weather patterns, the Pyrénées and its foothills flanking Roussillon s borders to the south and west, leave the region in a rain-shadow, ensuring good weather and clear skies. The mean temperature here is the highest in all of France and rainfall has never been plentiful. Summers are quite dry and drought-prone. Average annual precipitation has declined since 2000, barely exceeding 18 inches/450 mm in most years. Roussillon Vineyards and the Pyrénées Contrary to the northern parts of the Languedoc, Roussillon is always windy with up to eight different winds buffeting the region from all sides. The prevailing north wind, the Tramontane, desiccates the berries increasing sugar concentration and reducing yields. Much like the Mistral, the Tramontane serves to dry the soils and mitigate humidity. This minimizes the risk of disease and promotes a healthy environment for the vine. There are more organic and biodynamic wine producers in Roussillon than in any other French wine region. 228

21 III. Geology/Topography/Soils Geology The geological history of Roussillon mirrors that of Languedoc. Both regions experienced the exact same upheavals with the concomitant up-lifting of ancient sea beds and the subsequent erosion and sedimentation brought on by the torrential downpours of the last Ice Age. The major difference between the two regions is that Roussillon was subjected to much more intense pressure and buckling, hence its more mountainous terrain. Topography Roussillon is comprised of hills and is surrounded by mountains. To the north are the Corbières Mountains, to the west lies Canigou, one of the highest peaks of the Pyrenees at over 9,000 ft/2,785 m in elevation. To the south, lie a myriad of peaks including the appropriately named Roc de France at 4,785 ft/1,450 m which forms the border with Spain. Here, the Pyrenees meet the sea. The mountains extend to the coast itself and many of the vineyards line the slopes. Others are located at various altitudes on thin strips of land between the peaks. Mount Canigou (in the background) The fact that Roussillon is rimmed by mountains on three sides creates an amphitheater effect on a grand scale. Inclement weather is blocked and heat is trapped. Vineyards planted on or near the mountains experience greater diurnal temperature swings due to cold air masses that descend from the mountains upper reaches during the evening hours. The convoluted landscape captures water, funnels the winds in a west/east direction and provides a varied degree of orientations and elevations (up to 1,980 feet/600m) to temper the fierce heat of the deeper south. Three rivers, Agly, Têt and Tech, whose headwaters are located in the Pyrénées, run through the plains to empty into the Mediterranean. The water is pure, nutrient-rich and cold, which helps temper the areas around them. The region is one of climatic extremes. It is possible to both snow ski and swim in the sea within the same season! Soils Much of the region consists of an iron-rich, sandy, red, water-retaining clay. In fact, the region gets its name from the color of this earth, rousse (translating as russet or red ). 229

22 That said, Roussillon has enormous diversity of soil types and most of them are ancient. Vines grow on limestone, black schist, granite, gneiss, gray schist, galets, sandstone, shale, quartz, yellow clay, marble, and sand. In general, the alluvial plains are planted to white grapes; stonier sites at higher elevations are planted to red grapes. IV. Grape Varieties The grape varieties are the same as in Languedoc with two additions Muscat d Alexandrie (white) Tourbat (white): also known as Malvoisie du Roussillon or Malvasia Red Clay Soils in Les Aspres V. The AOCs of Roussillon Here, the AOC system has a clear hierarchy with designated naming as seen in the Rhône Valley. Regional AOCs: AOC Languedoc discussed earlier Côtes Du Roussillon AOC (1977) Style: Red (80%), Rosé (13%), White (7%) Grape Varieties: o o Red and Rosé: Carignan, Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Lladoner Pelut. Macabeu (max. 30%) can only be incorporated into rosé. White: Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu, Roussanne, Marsanne, Rolle (Vermentino), Tourbat (Malvoisie du Roussillon) Côtes du Roussillon is the largest appellation in this region and the AOC rules are some of the most complicated on the books. This is due to the fact that a good number of the vineyard parcels are field blends. Yields are limited to 3 tons/acre (50 hl/ha). There is one Cru within this AOC: Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres. These wines have to be a blend of at least three out of the four approved grape varieties: Carignan Noir, Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvèdre. 230

23 Côtes Du Roussillon Villages AOC (1977) Style: Red Grape Varieties: Grenache, Carignan, Lladoner Pelut, Syrah, Mourvèdre Côtes du Roussillon Villages extends through the valleys of the rivers Agly, Tech and Têt and is a designation for red wines only. The wines are Grenache-based, but all wines must be a blend of at least 2 grape varieties and no single grape variety can exceed 70%. Note the exclusion of Cinsault. Yields drop to 2.7 tons/acre (45 hl/ha). There are four villages which can add their name to Côtes du Roussillon Villages: Caramany, Latour de France, Lesquerde, Tautavel. They are considered Crus. Latour de France Vineyards They are situated in a circle around the village of Maury. These AOC Crus are for red wines only and must likewise be a blend of at least two grape varieties from Grenache Noir, Carignan Noir, Lladoner Pelut, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The blending formula, yield and minimum alcohol percentage is the same as for AOC Côtes du Roussillon Villages except for these exceptions: Côtes du Roussillon Village-Caramany mandates at least 25% Syrah in the blend and 100% of the Carignan used must be vinified Caramany Vineyards along the Agly River 231

24 using carbonic maceration. Mourvèdre is not allowed. Côtes du Roussillon Village-Lesquerde mandates 100% of the Carignan used to be vinified using carbonic maceration. Mourvèdre is not allowed. Côtes du Roussillon Village-Tautavel must contain at least 20% (together or separate) Grenache and/or Lladoner Pelut. Carignan cannot be more than 50% of the blend, and a minimum of 50% of the Carignan used must be vinified by carbonic maceration. Wine law requires one year mandatory ageing. Tautavel Collioure AOC (Red 1971, Rosé 1991, White 2003) Style: Red, White, Rosé Grape Varieties: o Red and Rosé: Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan o White: Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris Collioure is the southernmost appellation in France. Collioure and Banyuls share the same delimited area: Collioure is the appellation for dry wines; Banyuls the appellation for Vins Doux Naturels. Yields rarely reach the maximum permitted level of 2.4 tons per acre (40hl/ha) and are more commonly closer to 1.5 tons per acre (25hl/ha). Collioure and its Bay Maury AOC (Dry Unfortified Red 2012) Style : Red Grape Varieties : Grenache Noir (60% - 80%), Carignan, Syrah, Mourvèdre As of April 2012, the Maury appellation is allowed to produce dry wines as well as Vins Doux Naturels. The new appellation will apply to dry wines from the 2011 vintage forward. The wine must be a blend of a minimum of 2 different grape varieties with Grenache Noir as the main component comprising 60% to 80% of the total assemblage. Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre are lawful blending partners. The wines must also undergo a minimum 6 month-ageing period prior to release. To avoid confusion with its VDN counterpart, the word sec must appear on the label. Maury Vineyards 232

25 Vins Doux Naturels (VDN) AOCs : There are five appellations for vins doux naturels in the Roussillon. Most are based predominantly on the Grenache varieties and one entirely on Muscat. Rivesaltes AOC (red and white) Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC (white) Maury AOC (red and white) Banyuls AOC (red, rosé and white) Banyuls Grand Cru AOC (red) These are fortified wines containing a minimum of 15% alcohol. They range in sweetness from less than 5% to up to 10% RS or more. The grapes must be picked with more than 25.2% sugar at harvest. Pure alcohol is added during fermentation (in the amount of 5 to 10% of total juice volume) in order to kill the yeast and boost alcohol levels. The alcohol effectively arrests the fermentation and leaves unfermented sugars in the finished wine. The point at which the alcohol is added determines the final RS level of the wine. Some VDNs are almost fermented completely dry before the alcohol is added. But this is rare. The overwhelming majority of the VDNs contain more than 10% RS. Note: Muscat de Rivesaltes must have at least 10% RS by law. Muscat de Rivesaltes is made from Muscat à Petit Grains and Muscat d Alexandrie. It has heady aromas of peach, orange blossom, honey and honeysuckle with a rich and unctuous texture. 233

26 White VDNs that do not say Muscat in the title, such as Rivesaltes, Maury and Banyuls, are comprised of Grenache Blanc, Malvoisie du Roussillon and Maccabeu. The flavors in the glass hint of honey, figs, dried fruits and orange zest. Note: Some AOCs permit the inclusion of both Muscats but in limited quantities. Up to 20% of both Muscats can be incorporated into Maury and Rivesaltes; up to 10% Muscat is allowed in Banyuls. The red VDNs are principally composed of Grenache. They boast intense flavours of fig, coffee, black tea, hazelnut, and chocolate. Their weight and power depend on their maceration time during fermentation. The Banyuls AOC must contain 50% Grenache Noir. There are no minimum ageing requirements. Banyuls Grand Cru, on the other hand, must contain a minimum of 75% Grenache Noir. Carignan, Cinsault and Syrah may be incorporated into the blend. These wines are slightly oxidized due to their mandatory ageing requirement (30 months in oak). They can be labeled dry/sec/brut when under 5% residual sugar. VDN can be produced reductively (minimizing oxygen exposure) or oxidatively (encouraging oxygen exposure). Working reductively in the cellar involves topping up tanks or barrels to their fullest (eliminating air space); this practice delivers fresh, fruit-forward VDNs. When working oxidatively in the cellar, barrels, casks, tanks or glass jars (bonbonnes) are not topped-up in order to maximize oxygen exposure. Some producers will even attempt to accelerate ageing by exposing the barrels, casks or bonbonnes to heat by leaving them out in the sun for a period of time before bottling. The style of wine produced is reflected by the nomenclature on the bottles. Unfortunately, the nomenclature is not uniform for all the VDN AOCs. Each has developed unique terminology to describe the colors in the glass. Bonbonnes in the Sun Red Rivesaltes produced reductively is labeled Grenat ; if oxidized, Tuilé; if extremely oxidized, Rancio. White Rivesaltes is rarely made in a reductive manner; oxidized it is Ambré; extremely oxidized, Rancio. *Note: Oxidized wines of Rivesaltes can be labeled Hors d Age if they underwent a minimum ageing of five years (the other AOCs use this terminology much more freely). Muscat de Rivesaltes is not made in an oxidized manner. Red Maury produced in a reductive manner is labeled Vendange or Récolte; if oxidized, Tuilé; if extremely oxidized, Rancio. White Maury can be made in a non-oxidized manner; oxidized it is Ambré (but this is very rare). Banyuls red made reductively is labeled Rimage; if oxidized, Tuilé; if extremely oxidized, Rancio. Banyuls white can be made reductively; oxidized it is Ambré; extremely oxidized, Rancio. Banyls Grand Cru cannot be made reductively; oxidized it is Tuilé; extremely oxidized, Rancio. 234

27 The common terms: Ambré, Tuilé and Rancio are color markers. Ambré is amber-clored, Tuilé is clay-tile colored and Rancio is brown. Look for flavors and aromas of orange and walnut in increasing intensity moving from Ambré to Rancio. IGPs of Roussillon The most important IGP in Roussillon is IGP Pays d Oc. The next most important in terms of production is IGP Pyrénées Orientales. The majority of producers, however, opt to label this as IGP Pays d Oc because it is so much more marketable. IGP Côtes Catalanes and IGP Catalan hint of the ancient ties to Cataluña. VI. When to Drink Roussillon Wines Most whites, rosés and light reds are made for immediate consumption. Full-bodied reds follow the normal aging curve; modest bottlings will keep for 2-3 years, tannic reds will be best served with 5-7 years of bottle age while big reds from a banner year can hold a decade. The Muscat-based Vins Doux Naturels and reductive red VDNs are generally drunk young and fresh to capitalize on their explosive fruit. VDNs produced in an oxidative style have already undergone ageing at the winery, so they are ready to drink upon release. Although they will keep for decades, they will not improve in the bottle. After opening, reductive VDNs should be consumed within two days; oxidative VDNs can keep for a week. VII. Food Traditions In Roussillon, the signature savory dishes focus on Mediterranean bounty. There is a rich combination of land and sea fare such as foie gras with apricots, leg of lamb stuffed with anchovies, wild boar ragout served with quince aioli, grilled mussels, guinea hen with lemon confit and garlic, stuffed squid, and rabbit with dried prunes. Collioure is known for its anchovy salad. The vinegar of Banyuls is drizzled over roasted red peppers and finished with olive oil. There are chanterelles and cépes. And tomme (cheese) made from sheep s or cow s milk. Signature dishes include: Boles de Picolat: meatballs made from pork, veal and beef, served in a ragout with white beans Fraginat de Baixas: beef sauté with aioli Ouillade: bacon, bean and cabbage stew Pollastre amb Gambas: chicken and prawns in a savory onion, leek, tomato, herb, brandy sauce Savory meat dishes call for rich reds such as Maury Sec, Collioure, Côtes du Roussillon or Côtes du Roussillon Villages. But if there is fruit in the dish (as is often the case), the locals will switch to one of their vins doux naturels as accompaniment. 235

28 Seafood is often simply prepared and needs nothing more than a bright palate-cleansing white or rosé such as IGP Côtes Catalanes, IGP Côte Vermeille, Côtes du Roussillon blanc, and Collioure blanc or rosé. The vins doux nautrels are delicious with fruit and nut desserts or simply served as dessert. Signature starters include : Beignets Salés d'aubergine ou d'artichauts Violets du Roussillon: purple artichoke and eggplant tempura Calçots: grilled scallions with hot sauce Pan Tomaquet i Pernill: toasted bread that has been rubbed with garlic and topped with raw tomatoes, proscuitto and olive oil Carpaccio de Gambas Crues: prawn carpaccio Fougasse de Fritons: fougasse bread suffed with fried duck or pork skin Signature Roussillon desserts focus on fruits and nuts: Soupe de Pêches Verveine: peach and verbena soup Rousquilles: soft meringue cookies made with anise and lemon Bras de Gitan: a jelly -roll filled with pastry cream Poires au Vin et aux Epices: pear poached in red wine and spices Crème Catalane: custard flavored with cinnamon and lemon Clafoutis aux Cerises de Céret: black cherries baked in a thick flan-like batter Beignets de Fleurs d'acacia et sa Salade de Fraise: acacia flower fritters with strawberries Croquants aux Amandes de St Paul-de-Fenouillet: almond cakes Mel i Mato: sheep or goat cheese drizzled with honey and topped with toasted almonds Ouillade Fougasse aux Fritons Crème Catalane Calçots Poires au Vin Supplemental Materials: Learning Objectives/Review Questions Online at: 236