Butcher s Manual. A practical handbook for the traditional art of dry aging

Transcription

1 Butcher s Manual A practical handbook for the traditional art of dry aging

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3 Index Preface... 2 Introduction to dry aging An almost lost art... What is dry aging? Factors that determine aging time Species and breeds... Catle... Game and Horse... Pork... Age... Diet... Intramuscular fat... Cut... Stress... ph... Ambient parameters... Temperature... Humidity... Ventilation... Recipe screen defined Recipe breakdown... 9 Climatic Recipies i

4 Preface A practical handbook for the traditional art of dry aging You have chosen to broaden your knowledge and specialize yourself in the tradionnal method of dry aging. This guide will show you, the need for quality raw materials and the traditional methods of preservation and transformation of meats. Your desire to research and study will only help to protect and further this method. This easy to use manual does not presume to teach all methods and traditions, but simply convey what butchers, around the world, have tried to pass down through years of experience. The handbook makes reference to processes, meats, temperatures and humidity, used during the transformation process. Again, thank you for having chosen to invest your time to learn more about traditional transformation methods. We hope that you too will be one of many that helps to protect and promote the production and consumption of traditional goods. Dott. Alessandro Cuomo born in the city of Crotone, a graduate of the University of Zurich, chose to specialize in transformation, preservation, and food safety, with a particular interest in salami and cheese production. After creating Stagionello, he then turned his attention to another tradition in danger of extinction. While teaching salami making in the United Kingdom, he visited with local butchers to discuss the changes, family owned and operated butcheries had to make, in order survive in an ever changing economy. Upon his return to Italy, he began studying the scientific elements necessary for the preservation and transformation of meat. It is during this time where he applies his knowhow on the effect of microclimates during the transformation and preservation processes to create Maturmeat. He continues to assiduously collaborate with various food industries, and producers of food machinery to build his repertoire. As a consultant, he gives his support to clients the world over, for the planning, designing, construction and startup of food laboratories. He has provided efficient technical solutions, that are functional, and more importantly, respective of food safety and genuine traditional methods. 2

5 Introduction to dry aging An almost lost art Once upon a time you could go to your corner butcher and buy a prime cut of beef. The steak sold to you, would be tender and flavorful, and even back then, would come at a premium. The traditional method of meat preservation is known as dry aging, and is done by hanging meat in a controlled and monitored, refrigerated environment. During the 1960 s, industrial processors turned to the vacuum bag as a means of saving money. Wet aging was here to stay, as all water weight could be maximized, similar tenderness could be achieved, and no trim wastage, the only downside was a considerable loss of concentrated flavor. Surviving only upscale restaurants and specialty butcheries, this nearly lost art has began a resurgence as consumers are becoming more and more conscious of the food they choose for themselves and their families. Further proof this age-old tradition still has a lot to offer. What is dry aged meat? Dry aging is a process whereby beef carcasses, primal, and/or sub primal cuts are stored without protective packaging. The meat is stored at refrigerated temperatures for one to five weeks, this allows the natural enzymatic and biochemical processes to occur. The end result is an improved tenderness and unique flavor development that can only be described as dry aged meat. The process changes meat by two means: Moisture is evaporated from the meat. This creates a greater concentration of flavor. The meat s natural enzymes break down the connective tissue in the meat, which leads to a higher degree of tenderness. The acidification of the meat triggers enzyme activation that will tenderize the meat. By reducing surface moisture, we reduce the chance of pathogenic bacterial formation thereby extending the shelf life of the product. The process of dry aging will usually promote the growth of certain fungal (mold) species on the meat s external surface. This doesn't cause spoilage, but actually forms on the external crust. This crust seals in moisture preventing over drying, but is trimmed off when the meat is prepared for cooking. These fungal species will complement the natural enzymes in the meat by aiding tenderization and increasing the flavor of the meat. 3

6 Factors that determine aging time Species and breeds The most important place to start, the highest quality finished product starts with the best raw materials. An important factor when dry aging is the breed of each individual species. Each breed will possess unique characteristics that will affect aging time and taste. Cattle Find below a selection of popular breeds chosen in Europe and around the world. Breeds are chosen out of local availability, intramuscular fat content, and popularity. See more information on intramuscular fat content or Marbling on page 5. Wagyu Black Angus Chianina Marchigiana Piemontese Podolica Romagnola Game and Horse Game meat will have very lean muscle, with strong fibrous connective tissue. These types of meat will dramatically increase aging time. Pork Bone-in loins should be aged for a minimum of 7 days, or 14 days if they are bone-out. 4

7 Factors that determine aging time Intramuscular fat Also know as Marbling, this is fat that is found in between muscle fibers, and carries enzymes crucial to the aging process. Taste is greatly enhanced by the addition of this type of fat, as it will carry the sugars developed during the feeding process. Many consumers are led to believe that they can purchase meat virtually anywhere and achieve similar results as to what they eat in fine steakhouses. In USA for example, 2% of all cattle raised will make the USDA PRIME+ grade, this meat will go on to upscale restaurants and hotels. On the left is a grading scale for comparison based on fat marbleization percentage A5 A4 A3 2 2 A2 1 1 A1 0 Age Younger animals (i.e. pork, lamb, veal) are not the best choice for long periods of dry aging, this is due to a lack of outer layering of fat or intramuscular fat to help protect the meat from becoming rotten. Diet What the animal eats is directly related to the quality and flavor of the meat. Grain fed animals, free of antibiotics, makes for meat rich in glycogen, corn is added to their diet to essentially fatten them up. Meat from grass-fed animals looks and smells slightly different from grain-fed beef, and has a nuttier taste as opposed to animals on corn based diet. 5

8 Factors that determine aging time Cut Cuts of meat are broken down into 2 categories, Primal and Sub primal. As seen in the image below, the meat is first broken down into primal cuts. Sub primal cuts taken from the rib to the loins (middle cuts) serve as the source of all desirable steaks such as rib eye, T-bone, porterhouse, top loin, sirloin, filet mignon, etc. These cuts are the ideal choice for aging, as muscles, they would have been utilized the least. Aging meat from the chuck and round would increase aging time; this is due to higher degree of connective tissue and low degree of fat. Chuck Brisket Rib Plate Short loin Flank Sirloin Tenderloin Top sirloin Bottom sirloin Round Shank Shank Stress Tired or stressed animals at the time of slaughter causes a chemical reaction and muscle contraction, the result will be a spike in ph and hardening of the muscle. At that point the meat may have to be chemically treated to bring the ph down, and will increase aging time compared to a rested and relaxed animal. ph An important indicator of the safety and quality of meat is its ph. An increased ph value will directly influence the length of time at which the aging process lasts. The ideal ph range, measured 48h after slaughter, is between Never use meat with a ph of 6.5 or greater, or a ph of 5 or lower. 6

9 Factors that determine aging time Ambient Parameters Aging is a natural chemical-physical process that takes place in the skeletal muscles after slaughter, gradually transforming them into meat. Dry aging utilized controlled ambient conditions to further this complex transformation. Below is a short list of variables to consider when transforming meat; Temperature The temperature at which meat can be transformed has a very short range, 0 C to 4 C (32 F to 39 F). The closer the temperature gets to freezing the slower the aging process will occur, raising the temperature does speed up aging but can run the risk of spoilage. Always monitor the temperature product. Humidity While humidity does not greatly affect the Aging time, it will have other implications if not monitored and maintained correctly. Too high a relative humidity will result in excessive mold growth, and relative humidity that is too low, will cause an over drying and shrinkage. Recommended humidity is 80% +/- 5% Ventilation Air movement is vital to dry aging as this helps to dissipate surface moisture, air speed should be distributed evenly and consistently over and around the product. Maintaining good air movement will help to avoid an excessive dehydration and control the microflora on the meat s surface. 7

10 Recipe screen defined RECIPE NAME TOTAL LENGTH OF THE SELECTED RECIPE RECIPE START/PAUSE CURRENT PHASE R1 Pha Aged Beef Aging Tot.999h Rem. 999h 13/11/ : 13 Time Hrs Temp ºC Humid % ph p.h TEMPERATURE SET POINT ph OF SAMPLE RELATIVE HUMIDITY R1 Pha Aged Beef Aging Tot.999h Rem. 999h 13/11/ : 13 Time Hrs Temp ºC Humid % ph p.h HIGH / LOW VENTILATION AIR RENEWAL COLD HEAT HUMIDIFICATION LIGHT RECOVERY FLAVOURING DEFROST 8

11 Recipe breakdown Page Recipe Name No. of Stages Total No. of Hours Total No. of days 10 Aged Beef Infinite 10 Aged Deer Infinite 11 Aged Game Infinite 11 Aged Horse Infinite 12 R. Mortis Infinite The suggested climatic recipes preset in your Climatouch are the result of years of tradition in dry aging; this comes as a benefit to those new to this traditional transformation process. The above recipes have not been preset with the smoking/flavoring function. Should you choose to use it, please follow the manual s instructions to set the smoking function. Note, the length of the total production cycle is suggested and dependent on individual requirements for aging of the product. The aging process can be stopped beforehand, once you have reached the desired Aw. The default parameters (Time, Temperature, Relative Humidity) preset in the recipes are suggested and may vary according to your country s legislative requirements on food safety, local traditions, and/or personal preference to taste. 9

12 Recipe 1 Aged Beef Customer Dealer Producer Climatic Recipes HACCP - Pref ph calibr. Variables 1. Select customer 2. Select Climatic Recipes My Recipes Default Recipes Create a Recipe Recipe list Aged Beef Aged Deer Aged Game Aged Horse R. Mortis 3. Select Default Recipe 4. Select Aged Beef and press Start icon Recipe 2 Aged Deer Customer Dealer Producer 1. Select customer Climatic Recipes HACCP - Pref ph calibr. Variables 2. Select Climatic Recipes My Recipes Default Recipes Create a Recipe Recipe list Aged Beef Aged Deer Aged Game Aged Horse R. Mortis 3. Select Default Recipes 4. Select Aged Deer and press Start icon 10

13 Recipe 3 Aged Game Customer Dealer Producer Climatic Recipes HACCP - Pref ph calibr. Variables 1. Select customer 2. Select Climatic Recipes My Recipes Default Recipes Create a Recipe Recipe list Aged Beef Aged Deer Aged Game Aged Horse R. Mortis 3. Select Default Recipe 4. Select Aged Game and press Start icon Recipe 4 Aged Horse Customer Dealer Producer 1. Select customer Climatic Recipes HACCP - Pref ph calibr. Variables 2. Select Climatic Recipes My Recipes Default Recipes Create a Recipe Recipe list Aged Beef Aged Deer Aged Game Aged Horse R. Mortis 3. Select Default Recipes 4. Select Aged Horse and press Start icon 11

14 Recipe 5 R. Mortis Customer Dealer Producer Climatic Recipes HACCP - Pref ph calibr. Variables 1. Select customer 2. Select Climatic Recipes My Recipes Default Recipes Create a Recipe Recipe list Aged Beef Aged Deer Aged Game Aged Horse R. Mortis 3. Select Default Recipe 4. Select R. Mortis and press Start icon Recipe 5 - Rigor Mortis This is a very unique recipe, and if used, can help maximize your profit. Rigor mortis is a natural chemical process that occurs shortly after slaughter, and can last between hours, until the rigor mortis process starts and stops the meat cannot be eaten. When you purchase your meat this process has been finished, unless you raise and process your own meat. With Maturmeat and this particular recipe, you can purchase meat just after slaughter and cleaning (removal of blood) and before rigor mortis sets in. By doing this you can purchase this meat at a lower cost. First check the ph of the meat, the ph should not be over 7. Once the meat is placed inside Maturmeat start the recipe and monitor the ph as it must drop down until it lands in the safe range between ph , this should occur within hours. The recipe will progress into aging automatically. 12

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