SEMINAR ON THE USE AND INFLUENCE OF OAK IN THE MAKING AND AGEING OF WINE. Prepared and conducted for the Institute of Masters of Wine

Transcription

1 SEMINAR ON THE USE AND INFLUENCE OF OAK IN THE MAKING AND AGEING OF WINE Prepared and conducted for the Institute of Masters of Wine March 10 th 2004

2 CONTENTS Who is who for this seminar? Page 1 A short history of wooden recipients for wine Page 2 Summary of functions and benfits of barrels in the fermentation and/or ageing of certain wines Page 5 Oak tanks: winemaking technique or marketing gimmick? Page 10 The influence of origin : geographic provenance and botanical types of oak, and their consequences Page 22 The influence of seasoning (ageing) of oak Page 25 Toasting Impact on aromas : current research Page 26 Appendices: Perception threshold (in µg/l) by direct olfaction Oak chips / further information Will there be enough French oak for barrels in the coming years? Programme Details of wine samples Further reading Useful addresses

3 Who is who for this seminar? Taransaud tonnellerie, which specialises in cooperage from French oak, is part of the family-owned group Chêne & Cie. The other members of this group are: Garnier, specialised in European oak, Canton cooperage, specializing in US oak, and Thalès, a research and development and cellar hygiene company. Henri de Pracomtal, Chairman and CEO of Taransaud, Chêne & Cie and Thalès Jean-Pierre Giraud, Commercial Director for Taransaud, has been with the company since Following business studies, he joined Jean Taransaud, who then sold his barrels only to Cognac houses, in order to develop sales to wine producers. Has been on the road ever since, selling barrels all over France, Italy, Spain, North and South America, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand etc. Says he learnt his trade from the winemakers of the world. Member of the Grand Jury European tasting panel and serial wine lover. Dominique de Beauregard, is in charge of Research and Development for the Chêne group, and is CEO of Thalès, the services and hygiene subsidiary Past career and qualifications: National Diploma in Oenology (Bordeaux), DUAD Diplôme Universitaire d Aptitude à la Dégustation (Bordeaux), Mastère en Management par la Qualité (Ecole Supérieure de Management Bordeaux). Œnologist and technical manager for Dulong (Bordeaux) until to 1990, Technical and purchasing Director for Eschenauer (Bordeaux)and winemaker at Rausan-Ségla and Smith-Haut-Lafite to 1997, worked at Château Bouscaut and Château Haut-Nouchet (Pessac-Leognan) and on organic farming procedures 1997 to 2002 : consultant in Bordeaux, Bergerac and Algeria. Bruno Remy has been Commercial Manager for Taransaud since 2000 Past career and qualifications: National Diploma in Oenology (Toulouse 1986) Assistant Wine Maker, Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma, USA (1987/88) Assistant Wine Maker, Normans Wine Estate, Adelaide, Australia (1988) Commercial Manager, Seguin Moreau cooperage, France (1989/2000) Guest speakers : Geneviève Janssens, chief wine-maker, Robert Mondavi Winery (Napa, California) Bernard Hervet, Directeur Générale Bouchard Père et Fils (Beaune) et William Fèvre (Chablis) Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, co-owner and manager, Château Angelus, Saint-Emilion Olivier Decelle and Stephane Gallet, respectively owner and Technical Director, Mas Amiel (Roussillon) Co-ordinator for this seminar is David Cobbold, who has lived in France since 1972, and has been working in the wine trade since 1983, currently as a wine writer, teacher and consultant. Page 1

4 A short history of wooden recipients for wine by David Cobbold Wine has not always been kept, or made, in wooden recipients. One can name a number of other vessels of the past, such as animal skins, earthen or stone-ware jars of varying sizes and stone troughs. Some of these are still in use today, in certain parts of the wine world. In modern times, concrete vats, which were introduced in the 19 th century, as well as the now more familiar stainless-steel and fibreglass tanks, are all part of the equipment of practically every winemaker. But wooden vessels of whatever shape or size have not only been around as an essential part of the making, keeping and transporting of wines for about 2000 years, they have also become a key issue in a number of debates about quality, flavour, or ageing capacity : all of which are central issues in our understanding of what we call, for want of a better term, fine wine. Why this is so, and what are the variables involved, are the themes of our seminar today. I would like to start with a very short reminder about the history of wooden vessels in connection with wine, as I believe that it is not possible to think clearly about the future, let alone the present, without taking a look at the past. Nobody knows for sure who invented the wooden barrel. There is a legend in France that it was the tribe of the Gauls, during or even before the Roman occupation of what is now France. But there is no clear proof of this, probably because wood, unlike pottery, rots away with time. Perhaps we could settle for the Celtic invention being a probability, given that the first written testimonial seems to come from Julius Caesar, who mentions his army being bombarded with enflamed wooden vessels by besieged Gallic tribes! Wooden vessels certainly existed well before this, at least in the shape of boats. Let us not forget that the word vessel derives from the Latin vasselus, meaning a small vase. This gives us the shape of a barrel. And the word vessel has come to mean any recipient, generally curved, and often made of wood. By extension it has also come to mean a boat, as a boat not only contains things, it also is made of wood. And its making involves similar techniques to those used in cooperage. One could easily suppose that someone capable of making a big wooden vessel, such as a boat, would be able to produce a smaller one like a barrel. A look at the wooden boats made by the Ancient Egyptians (for example the celestial boat discovered next to the great pyramid which dates from c.2700 BC), shows mastery of techniques of bending and assembling shaped wood pieces to make a vessel that amounts to a half of an Page 2

5 elongated barrel. And boats that truly floated were vital to the Egyptians to navigate on the Nile, carrying stone downstream from the quarries in Upper Egypt. We also know that the techniques involved are older than this and were transmitted to the Egyptians by Phoenicians from the area now known as the Lebanon, from where the cedar trees they used came. Noah s Ark was seemingly made of oak and the timbers were bent and joined just like a barrel. Nearer our times, but not in France, the Greek Sophist, Diogenes, is said to have lived in a barrel, around 300 years BC (and Taransaud refer to this in one of their ads). But apart from logical deductions and a number of legends, factual evidence of barrels this far back is scant. However, during the Roman era, we find a number of bas-reliefs showing barrels being carried on boats. This one dates from the reign of Augustus, around 60 years BC, and shows barrels on a boat being pulled upstream on the Durance river in Provence. There are numerous other visual and written sources, in France, Germany or in Rome, dating from the same period, so we can take it that wooden barrels have been part of the wines scene since just over 2000 years. Barrels around the world come in a variety of sizes. Prior to the arrival of modern transport, they were made as close as possible to where wine was produced. Thus the nearest forest was used in preference to others simply because of the difficulty of transporting timber. Variety in barrel shapes and sizes is due to diverse local practice: we should not forget that each area used to have its on interpretation of measurements. As well as being the tool for transport, barrels were used as the unit measurement for wine, but this was never standard, as each region (not merely country), had its own measurement system. In France alone, there used to be over fifty different barrel capacities, and one can add the various German shapes and sizes, as well as the bottinis traditionally used in parts of Italy Another factor of variety was probably the shape and size of the boats that shipped barrels. Look at the pipas that contain port; probably the closest shape we still have to the earliest barrels, and rather similar to a double Phoenician long boat. Today, barriques have two slightly different sizes: the 228 litre Burgundy barrel, and the 225 litre Bordeaux one. This is surely because these two regions were the last to continue to use barrels on a large scale throughout the 20 th century Page 3

6 when other recipients came to the fore, and prior to the post 1980 s revival in the widespread use of barrels for more expensive wines around the world. Larger sizes are also enjoying a revival, for example in the Rhone valley, or for similar styles of wines. Why have wooden barrels lasted so long? For practical and economic reasons first and foremost. They do not break when rolled or lifted from one point to another, as do ceramic vessels. And, until the late XIXth century at least, they cost much less than bottles. They can also be recycled and repaired easily. To remind us of the historical importance of barrels as a means of storage and transport, we should remember that all wine used to be shipped in barrels, as did other liquids, prior to the arrival of modern water-proof containers. We have trace of the huge importance of this traffic in the fact than the loading capacity of a ship is still measured in tons, which derives directly from the French word tonneau, itself derived from low Latin and possibly old Irish. And their survival is partly due to the finest (and most expensive) wines, such as the Bordeaux first growths, who were the only wine-growing estates able to continue to pay coopers to lodge their wines in new oak throughout the very depressed years between the 1920 s and the 1960 s. Page 4

7 SUMMARY OF FUNCTIONS AND BENEFITS OF BARRELS IN THE FERMENTATION AND/OR AGEING OF CERTAIN WINES A slide presentation by Jean-Pierre Giraud THE MATERIAL THE FUNCTIONS BENEFITS AND CONSTRAINTS THE BARREL: A UNIQUE PRODUCT Oak has various components: The material Cellulose (40%) : the biggest component. Cannot be hydrolysed. Hemicellulose (20%) : can be hydrolysed. Lignines (25%) : a major component enabling sap to permeate wood. Ellagitanin (10%) : can be hydrolysed. Produces ellaginic acid. Micro elements (5%) : oses: sugars (eg fructose, glucose etc) lipids: fats sterols: found in hormones and vitamins volatile subtances: provide spicy / toasted aromas mineral substances: calcium, potassium, magnesium. and lesser ingredients: like phenylcetone, which enhances the strength of toasting without adding aromas. How do wood and wine combine? The first elements to escape from wood are : - the oses i.e. non hydrolysable sugar, mineral salts, aldehydes, and phenols such as vanillin - phenolic acids: related to gallic, ferulic, vanillic, syringic, sinapic acids. - aromatic substances (coumarines) also found in others plants such as lavanda, tarragon or other woods Then the ellagitannins etc Page 5

8 GAS ELEMENTS IN THROUGH THE WOOD ( Mainly the bung-hole) C02 H20 ETHANOL bung wood wood polyphenols Gas in through the wood : - oxygen wood polyphenols porous Elements provided by wood - lactones / eugenol - tanins / astringency - peroxydes clarification ellagitanins by François Feuillat In «La tonnellerie, un art au service du vin» by Jacques Puisais. MAIN FUNCTIONS OF THE BARREL A measured unit for selling wine. Transport Storage Making the wine (malolactic and alcoholic fermentation) Ageing the wine (influence of seasoning, origin of wood, grain, toast, oxydo-reduction, thermo regulation) Page 6

9 MAKING WINE (alcoholic fermentation) Alcoholic fermentation in barrels (white): Main advantages: Wines richer and rounder, with less reduction Better integration of wood to wine More CO 2, less oxydation,fresher and better fruit character Main constraints: Full control of pre-fermentary phase Severe selection of grapes Excellent sanitary conditions MAKING WINE (alcoholic fermentation) Alcoholic fermentation in barrels (red): Main advantages : Wines richer and smoother Better integration of wood to wine Richer lees Main constraints: more work and expense daily control & cleaning difficult to control the temperatures. MLF can start before end of alcoholic fermentation Page 7

10 MAKING WINE (malo-lactic fermentation) Malo-lactic fermentation in barrels (whites): Main advantages: Wines richer & more complex Protection against oxydation through lees Better fruit flavours Main constraints: Requires excellent temperature control Must start before spring time (to avoid aldehides, highly oxydable combinations which consume a lot of SO 2 ) Slower fermentation compared to tanks Can reduce varietal aromas (case of sauvignon blanc) MAKING WINE (malo-lactic fermentation) Malo-lactic fermentation in barrels (reds): Main advantages: - better fresh and fruit characteristics (due to the lees) - better integration of the wood in the wine (round / harmonious /less agressive) - wood is the best material for a slow oxydation Main constraints: - Wine must have lees (not clean) / in case of clean wine the wine will become dry and weak (no protection against oxygenation) - Added work, expense & temperature control - Possibly higher V.A and reductive aromas AGEING WINE 4 main elements influence flavours and aromas: Origin of wood Seasoning Grain (see also origin) Toasting Page 8

11 Bending and toasting Bending is important for the strength of the barrel. It is done over an open fire. Toasting provides a link between wood and wine. Over an open wood fire of about 500 C for 5/10 minutes (and more). Some coopers use a lid to increase temperature. NB: with no toasting, wood does not integrate well with wine. Thermo-regulation Not very well known but very important Varies according to timber thickness Slows down rate of thermal changes in wine Wood thus protects wine from temperature variations in winter and summer Reduction in thermal shocks improves silkiness and roundness in the texture of wine Different barrels for different wines A barrel is a unusual product for many reasons. - You cannot try it before purchasing as you discover its qualities (or defects) after use - If it is good, all is well. If it is not, there is no return for that wine - Each wine has its own requirements - So relationships and confidence between winemaker and cooper are vital CONCLUSION Today s winemakers want all the benefits of wood without any drawbacks In particular, they do not want their wines to taste oaky anymore So the best compliment for a barrel is when you do not talk about wood! This is our goal Page 9

12 Oak tanks: winemaking technique or marketing gimmick? A slide presentation by Bruno Rémy Marketing gimmick - Gimmick Tanks? G (immick) G as Genial Fermentor for qualitative enological reactions! Château Pavie Macquin Saint Emilion - France Historical context Tanks a traditional tool in all countries before 1950/60 White + Red wines Vinification + Ageing After 1950/60, evolution towards : Steel Stainless steel Polymer plastic tanks (concrete already in use from late 19th century) The 1990s Growing quality trend Cash-flow Scientific knowledge New fittings in stainless steel (manhole, door, valves, cooling plate ) Page 10

13 Oak Vats 2 categories Upright Tank Round or Oval Vat Château Clarke Medoc France Giacosa Piemont Italy Round or Oval Tank Capacity : hl (today hl) Vinification of red wines (difficulty in removing skins) Vinification of white wines (Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation) Ageing red wines (Rhone, Provence, Piedmont, Tuscany ) Ageing white wines (Alsace, Austria, Germany ) Ageing spirits Oddero Piemont - Italy Page 11

14 Upright Tank Capacity : hl (commonly hl) Vinification of red wines (Alcoholic and malo-lactic fermentation) Vinification of white wines (unusual) Ageing red wines (not in Bordeaux) Ageing white wines (rare) Ageing spirits (Cognac) Mas Amiel Roussillon - France Tank Manufacturing (quality options) Wood Forests (France, Europe, USA) - traceability Controls (analytical, radioactivity, chlorophenols) Seasoning (several years outdoors) Specifications defined with the winery Usage (vinification, ageing, technical parameters) Dimensions (assembled or not) Fittings (more and more technical solutions) Installation (assistance or not) After-sales services (contract) Budget Manufacturing Stock in the wood-yard (length + thickness 54, 80, 100 mm) Highly skilled labour Controls during production + finished products Page 12

15 Success factors for Oak Tanks Enviromental factors Tank factors 1- Success factors for Oak Tanks : Vineyard Grapes Vineyard cap must - fermentation Varieties (Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Sangiovese, Pinot noir = natural potential in tanins + anthocyans) Age of vineyard (preferabaly old vines) Yield (low yields for concentration) Natural and assisted vineyard conditions (soil, exposure, viticulture) Page 13

16 2- Success factors for Oak Tanks : Human Grapes Vineyard Winemaker Philosophy (risk, quality policy) Specific know-how + trained labour Financial capacity + Market capacity (300 /hl 30hl Tank; 170 /hl 100hl Tank) 3 - Success factors for Oak Tanks : Tank Grapes Vineyard Tank Winemaker Quality of wood + guarantees + technical controls Accurate specifications + fittings Correct installation Maintenance (cleaning, disinfection ) Page 14

17 4 - Success factors for Oak Tanks : Cellar Cellar Grapes Vineyard Tank Winemaker Raw materials (stone, concrete, brick, cellar ) Temperature C + Humidity 75-85% H (natural or air conditioning?) Ventilation (not excessive but regenerating) Hygiene (avoiding micro-organisms, pollution ) Access (cat-walks, security ) 5 - Success factors for Oak Tanks : Assistance Cellar Grapes Vineyard Tank Winemaker Technical Assistance Cold / Heat Wood s thermal performance -> necessity of temperature control in the tank (cooling plate or serpentine) Computer link for guidance + data Stainless steel fittings (manhole, door, punching-down system ) Page 15

18 Advantages of Oak tanks for vinification or ageing 1- Advantages of Oak tanks : Natural Insulation Outside temperature Heat CO² Yeast-Polyphenols-Proteins Cold / Heat Heat during fermentation Cold Depending on tank capacity, inertia is times higher than stainless-steel Positive Consequences: Temperature stability during fermentation (polyphenolic reactions) Possibility of cold maceration before fermentation (fruit flavours + increase in anthocyans during first days) Slow decrease in temperature after AF: favourable effect on chemical compounds + start of MLF Constraint : internal temperature control to avoid overheating (cooling plate or serpentine) Page 16

19 2- Advantages of Oak tanks : Transfer of wood compounds CO² Yeast-Polyphenols-Proteins Ellagitanins Low-level transfer of natural wood compounds as ellagitanins (mostly vescalagine + castalagine) + furans + lactons + aldehyde phenols + vanillin) Depends on : - Capacity (Volume / internal exchange surface rate) - Age of tank (exhaustion after few years for new tank) - State of internal surface (cleaning, tartric deposits ) Positive Consequences : «Structuring» effect on wine Reduced effect compared to barrels (more fruit flavours) - Protection of wine against O² due to link between ellagitanins and O² Page 17

20 3- Advantages of Oak tanks : Micro-oxydation reactions Oxygen Oxygen Polyphenols polymerisation Oxygen Low-level oxygenation (outside to inside) Depends on : Capacity (Volume / internal exchange surface rate) Age of tank (exhaustion after a few years for new tank) State of internal surface (cleaning, tartric deposits ) Cellar temperature + humidity Number of rackings Positive Consequences : Polymerisation of tannins (less astringency) Slow and regular impact on wine (=«vaccination» effect) No reductive taste during ageing No effect during AF due to CO² Constraint : control of SO² Page 18

21 4- Advantages of Oak tanks : Higher level + stability of colour (reds) Pumping over «remontage» Punching down «pigeage» Skin tanins Yeast Anthocyans Gain in colour (better links between free anthocyans + skin tanins. Wood catalyses reactions) Depends on : Type and frequency of pumping over or punching down (manual or mechanical) Levels of SO² + combination with ethanol which can link with anthocyans + tannins Positive Consequences : Purple colour Stability of colour in the wine (less precipitation with proteins) Page 19

22 5- Advantages of Oak tanks : Truncated shape «remontage» «pigeage» break cap break Yeast must - fermentation Easier to work on the cap during fermentation Depends on : Type and frequence of pumping over or pigeage (manual or mechanical) Positive Consequences : Polyphenol extraction Aeration to help yeast Good results with «délestage» Page 20

23 6- Advantages of Oak tanks : No electromagnetic interferences Wine Colloids (polyphenols, minerals, proteins) lees Slow and effective natural precipitations of colloids, compared with stainless steel tanks (which can cause interference with electrical equipment in the winery) Depends on : Natural concentration of colloids Number of rackings during time spent in tank Choice of fining in final stage Positive Consequences : Stability during ageing Work on the lees («batonnage») effect with autolytic yeast benefits Conclusion Quality concept that combines a traditional tool and methods with modern technologies Applicable for a small range of wines fermented or aged in wood tank (wine potential + price + know-how) Further studies required to understand details of positives effects that winemakers around the world have noticed We recommend that you taste the wines before deciding whether gimmick is the right word or not! Page 21

24 The influence of origin : geographic provenance and botanical types of oak, and their consequences by David Cobbold First a brief reminder of botanical classifications to define our terms and get the family tree into perspective (see botanical divisions on chart below). Oaks are of the Fagacae family (along with beeches, for example). The genus Quercus has more than 250 different species, but very few of these are used for cooperage purposes. The relevant sub-genus is called Euquercus and it boasts six groups of species. In France, for example, one finds eight indigenous species of oak, belonging to various groups. The two that interest us today are Quercus Robur and Quercus Sessiflora. These two species are to be found throughout Northern European countries and in some southern. France has by far the largest reserves of oak in Europe and they have been well managed by state and private forests. In North America a different species is used: Quercus Alba. The quantities available are also considerable. Quercus Alba has a different internal structure which enables it to be sawn, rather than split and bent, without loosing its wine-proof qualities. Why were these three species singled out? As usual, practical reasons were more important than scientific experimentation, which is quite recent. The wood had to fulfil certain mechanical and chemical requirements: to be easily split (in the case of European oak), shaped, and assembled; then to retain sufficient strength, be water-proof (or wine-proof), and not impart unpleasant flavours to the wine. It is quite possible that other oak species would do a good job at this, but it so happens that these varieties are the most widely available throughout Europe and the United States, and they work well with wine. How is geographical origin important, apart from the determination of species? Oak trees, like any other living thing, will react differently to changes in environment. Soil type and depth, drainage, ambient temperatures, rainfall, etc. will all influence growth patterns. Wind or shelter from it will also affect the direction and speed of growth, and this is very important for the use of timber. Barrel staves cannot be split from crooked trees. Our imagination looks on the forest as a natural haven that is the result of some form of spontaneous generation. There are very few virgin forests left. Modern forests are nearly always the result of deliberate and calculated plantings, and straight oak tress have to be tended regularly to grow large enough and straight enough to be used. An oak tree is usually between 80 and 150 years old and 30 metres tall when cut for barrel use. So we are talking about very long-term farming. Page 22

25 Slide Presentation to accompany previous paper by David Cobbold. Oak Origin botanical classification Order, Family, Genus, Section, Species, Variety, Clone Genus = Quercus Hundreds of species of quercus, most unsuitable for water-tight vessels Three suitable varieties are regularly used, all of the white oak section Oak origin The origin of oak influences wine flavours In France (and Europe in general) there are 2 major varieties of oak: Pedonculate oak (quercus robur) grows mainly south of the river Loire Sessile oak (quercus sessiflora) grows mainly north and east of the Loire France has the largest oak reserves in Europe Oak origin Oak from other European countries, of both the above varieties, comes from Hungary, Poland, Slovakia, Romania, Russia, ex-yugoslavia American oak (quercus alba) comes mainly from the Midwest Page 23

26 MAP OF MAJOR FRENCH REGIONS MASSIF VOSGES MASSIF ALLIER CENTRE MASSIF NEVERS Allier Oak origin: grain variation Sessile oak has mainly tight grain Tight grain will slow exchanges with wine Pedonculate oak has mainly open grain Open grain will speed exchanges with wine The tightest-grained French oak is from the Tronçais forest The most open-grained French oak is from the Limousin European oak is mainly tight due to continental climate (slow growing). US oak is tight-grained from cool areas like Ohio, Montana; wider from warmer areas like Tennessee etc. Page 24

27 The influence of seasoning (ageing) of oak a slide presentation by Jean-Pierre Giraud Seasoning of wood (1) When wood is freshly split, moisture content is about 55 %. To use wood for barrels this must be stabilized at 14/15 %. 3 ways: A/ The kiln dryer: extracts moisture with hot air in a closed building. Advantages: economic, no stock, fast. Disadvantages: rough tannins cooked in the wood and give astringency, bitterness, dry and green characters to the wine. Higher consumption when topping. Seasoning of wood (2) B/ Combination of kiln dryer and natural air seasoning: Depends on length of seasoning of each phase. Wood may be watered during air seasoning. Advantages: economic, less stock, dries wood faster to face demand for barrels. Disadvantages: depending on length of natural seasoning we may find astringency, bitterness, dry and green after-taste. C/ 100 % natural air seasoning : The best. Slow process involving natural elements such as rain, fog, snow, wind. Wood gradually loses its gross tannins. Seasoning rate is 1 cm per year. Advantages: the wood adds elegance, richness and complexity to the wine and provides a smoother finish Disadvantages: costly and slow, big stock, purchasing 3/4 years in advance, financial risk. Page 25

28 Toasting Impact on aromas : current research by Dominique de Beauregard Introduction The first goal of a barrel maker is to obtain a stable and leak-proof container. There are two steps in the heating of the barrel. The first step is the heating itself, the second step is the toasting of the barrel, called bousinage in Cognac. First step: the heating of the barrel occurs to bend it. It is done to permit the curve of the staves, to obtain the well known form of the barrels. The lignin of the wood is more malleable after being heated. The combination of heat and water permits one to bend the staves without breaking them. The process takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Second step: the toasting of the barrels. It is done for another reason. The aim is to develop aromas. It will have a strong impact on the sensorial structure of the wine. Depending on the intensity temperature and duration - of the wood toasting, the wine flavours and texture will vary. Different toasting levels Usually it is said by the wine makers that the toasting level of a barrel is light or medium minus, medium, medium plus, heavy or strong and long toasting or grande chauffe. Generally these words are characteristic of the colour of the inside of the barrel : from blond, through brown, up to deep black. These terms and others are also specific to each cooper. No rules define the level of toasting that corresponds with each term. In fact, the result of the process is appreciated by the winemaker himself when he is tasting his wines. This is what we will do together during today s tasting. The temperature of the wood is at about c for a light toasting and the surface of the wood is just softened. After 10 minutes, ( medium toasting), the superficial temperature of the wood rises to about 200 c. After 15 minutes, the superficial temperature stands at about 225 c and inside the wood at about 125 c. (source: P.Chatonnet) During toasting, the structure of the wood (lignin and hemi-cellulose) changes. The lignin and hemi-cellulose are partially degraded. There is a transformation into aromatic compounds. Page 26

29 A). Impact of toasting on the chemical composition of the wood. Toasting wood produces a lot of chemical compounds. We will discuss the main ones who have a known sensorial impact. Lignin derivatives: substances that derive from lignin in the wood (15 to 20% of the wood mass) Wood tannins: an aspect of the toasting effect is the degradation of the wood tannins. Gallic acid disappears with the increase in temperature. Volatile phenols: There are no volatile phenols in non-toasted wood. The volatile phenols are produced because of raised temperatures. This family of compounds have an intense smell we usually qualify with the following descriptors smoky, roasted, spicy, etc. Other molecules: Gaïacol, whose descriptor is smoky. 4-vinylgaïacol, whose descriptor is carnation. Eugenol whose olfactory descriptor is clove. Aldehyde benzoïques: amongst which the well-known vanillin. And also syringaldehydes (chemistry odour) and cinnamique aldehyde. From hemi-cellulose come: Furanes: furfural compounds are generated from polyosides. The smell of furfural and of methyl 5 furfural is identified as roasted almond. Levels increase with the duration of the toasting. Also derived from polyosides (glucosides): cyclotene, maltol (hydroxy-3-methyl-2-pyrone), and isomaltol are produced. Their smell is intense and identifiable as roasted, toasted bread, caramel, etc. An other family of compounds is Pyrazine or pyridine. Decsripors of these are sweet pepper, cocoa, bread, coffee. Thiazoles come from sulphured amino acid. They are very aromatic and their smell is identifiable as cacao or burnt rubber (benzothiazole is one example). Acetic acid is also produced. We can smell it during toasting of the barrel. It comes from the xylanes. The quantity produced increases with heat. From the lipids Lactones: the degradation of the lipids can form gamma lactones. These molecules are often present in the raw oak wood. Their concentration increases with the intensity of toasting. They seems to be destroyed by very high temperatures. The really significant gamma lactone is the beta methyl gamma octa lactone. It has a coconut type smell. B Impact of toasting on wine composition To measure the impact of toasting, Taransaud uses two different methods. We analyse the wood compounds or derivatives in the wine and we organize blind tasting with descriptors. These descriptors correspond to the different identifiable compounds we have just discussed. As we can observe on the aromatic profile chart, the highest level of wood toasting produces the wine with the most wood aromas. Page 27

30 Furane compounds increase with the intensity of toasting, as does gaïacol. The smoky impression is enhanced. Eugénol (clove) and beta methyl gamma lactone (coconut) do not change significantly. Aromatic profiles of wine from long and medium - toasted barrels, after 12 months 4-éthylphénol + 4- vinylgaïacol Vanilline Furanes/ Lactones E 2 nonénal Isoeugénol Cyclotène Eugénol Gaïacol Medium - heating Long heating A blind tasting organised with a descriptive slip, produced the following results for a Medoc wine (after 8 months in barrels). Light Medium High Woody character 2,5 3 4 Fruity 2 2,2 1 Smoky 1,5 2,5 1 Caramel 2 2,5 3 Spicy 2,5 3,5 2 Clove Vanillin Coco nut 2 0,5 2 Acidity Bitterness 1,8 1,5 2 Sugar impression 2,5 3 3 Roundness 2,5 3 3 Astringency Length, persistence Balance wood/wine Page 28

31 Olfactory analysis of red wine from medium toasted barrels, 12 months Olfactory analysis of red wine from high toasted barrels, 12 months vanilla coconut woody fruity smoked vanilla coconut woody fruity smoked cloves caramel cloves caramel spicy spicy Tasting of red wine from medium toasted barrels, 12 months Tasting of red wine from high toasted barrels, 12 months length / persistency distinguishy / delicacy astringency roundness / unctuosity woody fruity smoked caramel spicy length / persistency distinguishy / delicacy astringency roundness / unctuosity woody fruity smoked caramel spicy alcohol / sweetness bitterness acidity vanilla cocnut cloves alcohol / sweetness bitterness acidity vanilla cocnut cloves Comments on charts The fruitiest wine is found in the less toasted barrels. The wine with the strongest intensity in smoked, wood, clove aromas comes from the barrels that have had the longest toasting. Barrels toasted for the longest time also produce more comments such as length, persistency, roundness and smoothness, and less descriptors such as bitterness. Conclusion The toasting of the barrel produces aromas from the lignin and the polysaccharides of the wood : roasted and vanillin odours, that seem spicy and smoky. Progressively these odours become more and more intense as toasting is prolonged, but some may disappear with the highest heat levels. A long and gentle toasting of the barrel, which we call chauffe bourguignonne (Burgundy toasting), produces a lot of furanes, (roasted odour), syringaldehyde (chemistry), gaïacol and isoeugenol (spicy). It has the maximum of aromatic intensity. Tasting reveals significant differences between the different toasting levels of barrel. The fruitiest wine is founded with the lowest levels of toasting. The most powerful and complex aromas are found at the medium plus or grande chauffe levels. This is in accordance with the chemical analyses of the wood. Page 29

32 Toasting Impact on aromas : current research a slide presentation to accompany the above paper Heating & Toasting Heating: to bend the barrel Toasting: to develop aromas Different toasting levels Usual Temperature Duration designation (surface) Light c 5 mn Medium 200 c 10 mn High 225 c 15 mn Impact of toasting Degrades wood structure Produces aromatic compounds Lignin produces (1) Tannins from wood Gallic and ellagic acid: low levels First an increase and then a decrease at high temperatures Lignin produces (2) Volatile phenols, which increase with temperature General flavour descriptors: smoky, roasted, fireplace, spicy Gaïacol = smoke 4-Vinyl Gaïacol = carnation Eugenol = clove Lignin produces (3) Vanillin, which increases with temperature Syringaldehyde: chemistry-type smells And cinnamic aldehydes, Page 30

33 Hemicellulose produces (1) Furane compounds that increase with the duration of toasting Furfural: descriptor = almond 5-methyl furfural: descriptor = grilled almond Hemicellulose produces (2) Pyrazine, pyridine = sweet pepper, cocoa, bread, coffee Thiazole, benzothiazole = burnt rubber Hemicellulose produces (3) Cyclotenes, that increase with toasting Maltol and isomaltol = roasted, toasted bread, caramel aromas Lipids produce Gamma lactones, which increase with temperature, and then are destroyed βmethyl γoctalactone = coconut Toasting impact on wine Analysis of wood compounds in the wine Blind tasting for wood descriptors Wine aromatic profile according to type of toasting Aromatic profiles of wine from long and medium - heating barrels, after 12 months 4-éthylphénol + 4- vinylgaïacol Vanilline Furanes/ Lactones E 2 nonénal Isoeugénol Cyclotène Eugénol Gaïacol Medium - heating Long heating Page 30

34 Tasting results Olfactive analysis of red wine from medium - heating barrels, 12 months vanilla coconut woody fruity smoked cloves caramel spicy Olfactive analysis of red wine from long heating barrels, 12 months coconut vanilla woody fruity smoked cloves caramel spicy Page 31

35 Tasting results Analyse en bouche vin de fûts chauffe Moyenne -, 8 mois Equilibre bois / vin Longueur/Persistance Astringence Rondeur/ onctuosité Alcool/sucrosité Boisé Fruité Fumé Caramel Epicé Clou de girofle Amertume Acidité Vanille Noix de coco Analyse en bouche vin de fûts Grande chauffe, 8 mois Equilibre bois / vin Longueur/Persistance Astringence Rondeur/ onctuosité Alcool/sucrosité Boisé Fruité Fumé Caramel Epicé Clou de girofle Amertume Acidité Vanille Noix de coco Conclusion on toasting It produces a wide range of aromas It has an identifiable impact on wine Page 32

36 Polyglucidic : cellulose / hemicellulose Lignin and polyphenols : amorphous polymer of phenolic compounds Perception threshold (in µg/l) by direct olfaction Family Molecules Origin Molecules FURANES LACTONES ALDEHYDES PHENOLS PHENOLS Water Perception threshold µg/l Synthetic solution White wine Red wine Descripteur français English term Furfural Hemicellulose (pentose) Furfural amande almond 5-méthylfurfural Cellulose (aldohexose) 5-méthylfurfural amande grillée grilled almond 5-hydroxymethyl furfural Cellulose (aldohexose) 5-hydroxymethyl furfural amande grillée grilled almond Trans-B-methyl-goctalaconoctalacone noix de coco, chêne coconut, oak Lipid Trans-B-methyl-g Cis-B-methyl-g-octalactone Lipid Cis-B-methyl-g-octalactone G-caprolactone? noix de coco G-caprolactone crémeuse milky coconut Naturally present in wood Vanilline but also produced during heating from lignin and Vanillin vanille vanilla polyphenols Gaïacol Lignin and polyphenols Gaïacol 5, fumé smoky 4-vinylgaïacol Lignin and polyphenols 4-vinylgaïacol œillet poivré Peppery carnation Naturally present in wood Eugenol (phenol volatil) Eugenol clou de girofle clove Isoeugenol Lignin and polyphenols Isoeugenol clou de girofle clove E-2-nonenal E-2-nonenal 0,065 0,17 0,2 planche wood plank Cyclotene Polyoside Cyclotene sucre, caramel grillé grilled caramel, sugar

37 Oak chips / further information The least that one can say is that this issue is controversial. Clearly encouraged by the pressure of consumer habits and economics, the use of oak chips, sawdust, shavings, blocks, or planks (quercus fragmentus) has grown rapidly, especially in New World countries. Current status of chips in wine organisations The OIV, at its 2001 International Congress in Adelaide, accepted the use of oak fragments, saying that their use was different from aromatisation of wine (?). But its acceptation is ambiguous, as it talks of pieces of wood (without defining their size), stating that these can be grilled or toasted, but not burnt. A more precise definition of what does or does not constitute an oak chip, and what is allowed, was expected from them at the end of In France Chips are authorized experimentally for vins de pays, but forbidden in AOC wines. The Coopers position The position of the Federation Française de la Tonnellerie (French Cooperage Federation) on the questions of chips is the following: They consider that the use of oak chips or shavings and that of oak barrels are two entirely different practices that do not have the same vocation. Barrels help age the wine they contain, giving them structure via the multiple exchanges that take place between barrel, air and wine. They are part of the slow process of wine-making, where time is an essential element. Coopering is a traditional craft whose usefulness for wine has been proved. Oak chips do not serve the same purpose. They simply add aromatic elements to the wine, as quickly as possible. Their use should be restricted to specific categories of wine, which do not have the financial capacity to spend time in barrels. They should therefore not be used for AOC wines, and their use should be controlled. In any event, chips cannot be considered to be a substitute for barrels. Research documentation on the subject Chemical and sensory changes in white wines fermented in the presence of oak chips (authors : PEREZ COELLO, GONZALES VIÑAS, GARCIA-ROMERO, CABEZUDO, SANZ in: International Journal of Food Science and Technology 35, (1), 23-32, And Mel Knox says : 1 Accept no Substitutes (the title of an article in Decanter magazine in 1999) 1 Author of the article on oak in The Oxford Companion to Wine (edited by Jancis Robinson, OUP 1994)

38 WILL THERE BE ENOUGH FRENCH OAK FOR BARRELS IN THE COMING YEARS? Major expansion in the French cooperage industry has made some winegrowers worried. They wonder if there might not be a shortage of French oak in the future. I think it is important to give an honest answer to this legitimate concern, so here is my analysis of the present situation. I THE MARKET 1) Demand for stave oak Production by French cooperages peaked at 650,000 barrels in 2001 and since then has slowed down. Output doubled between 1990 and However, after a period of very strong growth (10-15% per annum over the past 5 years), things have leveled off. The use of stave wood by the cooperage industry represents 300,000 m 3 of rough wood, or 12% of the French annual oak harvest. Oak used to make barrels comes from the finest trees (as least 45 centimeters in diameter) with the best grain. Therefore competition from roughly 50 coopers keeps prices of French oak very firm compared to standard oak. 2) Supply According to the ONF's (Office National des Forêts), a state body that manages the forêts domaniales. Its reserves of suitable oaks continues to grow. The ONF indicates that at the present rate, state-owned oak forests should double annual production in the medium-term (3.3 million m 3 as compared to the present 1.5 million m 3 ), yet of all qualities of oak. However, the ONF France's main supplier of oak from old forests only accounts for one third of oak sales in France. The rest coming from private forests more scattered provide mainly wider grain oak. The question is how will ONF release sufficient volumes of high quality (tight grain, large diameter) at what rhythm. Supposing demand stays roughly stable. II Factors influencing equilibrium Several main factors will influence the world market for wine and hence for oak in the coming years: 1. Overproduction of wine around the world will necessarily have a moderating influence on demand for barrels. 2. The considerable development of wood chips and other alternative methods authorized by OIV (Office International de la Vigne et du Vin) is likely to become

39 widespread among low-end wines in America and Australia that have little to gain from barrel ageing. 3. The trend for very oaky wines seems to be on the downturn (in any event, my most recent tastings of Chardonnay have, paradoxically, led me to hope for this). Labels with the wording "without oak" have even begun to appear. The excess of oak (up to 200 % new) in wines that cannot support it will disappear. 4. Another factor is a big question mark: the needs of the veneer sheet slicing industry, a traditional user of the finest oak, in competition with cooperage - but whose importance has greatly declined. 5. Diversification of supply : an increasing availability and acceptance of Eastern European oak, of similar essence, as a substitute will reduce pressure. These factors will all come to bear in the coming years, and make us relatively confident about the future balance between supply and demand of stave-wood French oak. Henri de Pracomtal March 2004

40 Programme Sessions with speakers Moderator : Anthony Hanson MW Co-ordination: David Cobbold Main theme Timing 9.30/9.35 Introduction : detail To seminar and speakers Anthony Hanson Speakers & means tasting samples Sample numbers 9.35/9.40 History A brief history of wooden recipients for wine 9.40/9.55 Introduction to cooperage 9.55/10.10 Résumé The functions and benefits of barrels for the fermentation and/or ageing of wines 10.10/10.20 Fermenting Oak tanks, winemaking technique or marketing gimmick? 10.20/10.30 Fermenting Oak tanks : comparative tasting of same wines fermented in oak and stainless steel tanks 10.20/10.40 Fermenting Discussion between audience, winemakers and experts 10.40/10.50 Origin The influence of origin: geographic provenance and botanical types David Cobbold Taransaud video (edited version) Jean-Pierre Giraud Bruno Rémy sample protocol presented by Dominique de Beauregard G. Janssens (R.Mondavi), H de Bouard (Château Angelus) Stéphane Gallet (Mas Amiel) B Hervet (Bouchard Père et W Fèvre) David Cobbold red in stainless fermenter red in oak fermenter (2 wines) 1,2

41 10.50/11.10 Origin The influence of origin: comparative tasting (semiblind) US/European/French 2 wines (one white, one red) each aged in 3 different origins of wood, plus reference (random order for origins) 11.10/11.30 Origin Discussion Wine makers, Taransaud experts and audience 11.30/11.40 Seasoning The influence of seasoning (ageing) of oak Jean-Pierre Giraud (DdB presents test) 4 whites 4 reds (8 wines) 3, 4, 5, 6 7, 8, 9, /12.00 Seasoning The influence of seasoning oak: comparative tasting Wines aged in oak seasoned for 3 different lengths of time, plus reference 4 whites 4 reds 12.00/12.20 Seasoning Discussion Wine makers, Taransaud experts and audience 12.20/12.45 Morning s topics, summary Question and answer session Wine makers, Taransaud experts and audience 12.45/13.30 Short lunch break, Glass of wine (MW) 13.30/13.40 Toasting Impact on aromas : current Dominique de Beauregard research 13.40/14.00 Toasting Toasting, impact on aromas: comparative tasting 2 wines (one white, one red) each aged in the same type of oak which has been toasted to 3 different degrees, plus a reference 4 whites 4 reds (8 wines) 11, 12, 13, 14 15, 16, 17, 18 (8 wines) 19, 20, 21, 22 23, 24, 25, /14.20 Toasting Discussion Wine makers, Taransaud experts and audience

42 14.20/14.40 Time Time spent in barrels: Testimonies and paradoxes 14.40/15.00 Time Time spent in barrels : comparative tasting G. Janssens (Mondavi) Bernard Hervet (Bouchard P et Fils & William Fèvre) H de Bouard (Château Angelus) 4 samples : same red wine in same barrel for 3 different lengths of time plus neutral sample 15.00/15.15 Time Discussion Wine makers, Taransaud experts and audience 15.15/15.40 Balance: the general debate Is there too much oak? Proper use of oak, point of view Debate between winemakers and audience, chaired by A. Hanson 15.40/16.30 Final tasting: the finished product List of guest wine-makers of different winemakers Tasting of wines from different areas and countries showing aspects of the day s topics 4 reds (4 wines) 27, 28, 29, 30 Presented by their winemakers (3 Burgundy, 1/2 Bordeaux, 2 California, 2 Roussillon) (8 wines) (8/9wines) Geneviève Janssens, chief wine-maker, Robert Mondavi Winery, California Hubert de Bouärd, owner and managing director, Château Angelus (St. Emilion) and Fleur de Bouard (Lalande de Pomerol) Bernard Hervet, managing director, Bouchard Père et Fils (Beaune) & William Fèvre (Chablis) Stephane Gallet, technical director, Mas Amiel (Roussillon)

43 Tasting Number 1 : Large wooden container vs steel container Aim Show the differences in the wine between fermentation of the same grapes in a wooden container versus a steel vat Procedure Wine made with grapes from the same plot divided into two equivalent amounts (quantity and quality). Both large containers filled at the same time with the same quality of harvest. Half of the grapes were put in a large wooden container (80hL). The other half in a steel container (106hL). The same volume was put in both of them. All the different steps of the process (FA, pumping over, heating etc ), occurred at the same time for each tank. Wine-harvest Manual, in small plastic boxes, using a sorting conveyor Date of harvest: 15 th 16 th of September 2003 Wine making and No added yeasts. No enzymes. No tannins. No cap punching. Temperature controlled tanks ageing Same proportion of bleeding (1/6). Micro-oxygenation (15cc). Same frequency of pumping over. Two delestages during FA Wine was put in second fill barrels. No stirring of lees until December. 4 stirrings before bottling Grape variety 100% Merlot Age of the plot: 3 to 4 years old. Yield: 15HL/ha Vineyard information 162,5 acres property, 105 acres of vineyard, plateau site with clay (40 centimeters) over limestone Vintage 2003 Producer Château d Aiguilhe, Count von Neipperg, owner Appellation Côte de Castillon RED WINE

44 TASTING NUMBER 2 : ORIGIN OF WOOD (FRANCE, EUROPE, USA) WHITE WINE RED WINE Aim To look at the differences produced by the origin of oak. French, European (Polish) and American oak were compared. Aim To look at the differences produced by the origin of oak. French, European (Polish) and American oak were compared. Procedure We specially manufactured 30 litre barrels for this test. The same must was put in three different barrels: Procedure We specially manufactured 30 litre barrels for this test. The same must was put in three different barrels: The reference corresponds to a 30 litre steel barrel The reference corresponds to a 30 litre steel barrel The first barrel was made with staves from France The first barrel was made with staves from France aged aged outdoors for 24 months, with medium toast outdoors for 24 months, with medium toast The second barrel was made with staves from Europe The second barrel was made with staves from Europe (Poland) aged outdoors for 24 months, medium toast The third barrel was made with staves from USA aged outdoors for 24 months, medium toast (Poland) aged outdoors for 24 months, medium toast The third barrel was made with staves from USA aged outdoors for 24 months, medium toast Wine-harvest Manual, with small plastic boxes. Sorting conveyor Harvested last week of August 2003 Wine-harvest Manual, with small plastic boxes. Sorting conveyor Date of harvest: 15 th 16 th of September 2003 Wine making and ageing Must put in barrels for alcoholic fermentation Lees stirred with variable frequency: high at the beginning, then decreasing Wine making and ageing No added yeasts. No enzymes. No tannins. No cap-punching. Temperature controlled tanks. Bleeding (1/6) The wine was put in the small barrels where the malolactic fermentation occurred. 3 stirrings of lees between December and February. Grape variety and vineyard For this test 100% Sauvignon Blanc feet/ha (2500 feet/acre) Double guyot pruning Age of plot: 17 years old Grape variety and vineyard 100% Merlot. Riparia clusters of grapes on each vine. Double guyot pruning Age of plot: 4 to 5 years old. Yield: 29HL/ha Local soil Gravel over clay Local soil Clay (40 centimetre) over limestone Vintage 2003 Vintage 2003 Producer Domaine de Chevalier, cru classé Graves Producer Château d Aiguilhe, Count von Neipperg, owner Olivier Bernard manager, Thomas Stonestreet Winemaker Appellation Pessac Léognan Appellation Côte de Castillon

45 TASTING NUMBER 3 : SEASONING (24 months, 12 months, 6 months) WHITE WINE RED WINE Aim Procedure Wine-harvest Wine making and ageing Grape variety Local soil To experiment the effect of the duration of wood seasoning on the wine, we put the same must in barrels made with three different seasoning modes. The same wine was put in three different barrels for fermenting The reference corresponds to a 30 litres steel barrel The first barrel was made with staves from France aged outside for 24 months, medium toast The second barrel was made with staves from France aged outside for 12 months, medium toast The third barrel was made with staves from France aged outside for 6 months, medium toast Manual. With small plastic boxes. Sorting conveyor Last week of August 2003 Must put in the barrel where the alcoholic fermentation occurred Lees stirred with a frequency adapted to the wine: high at the beginning, then decreasing 70% Sauvignon and 30% Semillon in general. For the essay 100% of Sauvignon feet/ha (2500 feet/acre) Double guyot pruning. Age of the plot: 17 years old Graves on clay 12,5 acres of white vine Aim Procedure Wine-harvest Wine making and ageing To experiment the effect of the duration of wood seasoning on the wine, we put the same wine in barrels made with three different seasoning modes. The same wine was put in three different barrels after fermenting: The reference corresponds to a 30 litres steel barrel The first barrel was made with staves from France aged outside for 24 months The second barrel was made with staves from France aged outside for 12 months The third barrel was made with staves from France aged outside for 6 months Manual. With small plastic boxes. Sorting conveyor Date of harvest: 15 th 16 th of September 2003 No added yeasts. No enzymes. No tannins. Nocap- punching Temperature controlled tanks. Bleeding (1/6) Wine was put in the small barrels where the malolactic fermentation occurred. Less stirred 3 times between December and February Grape variety 100% Merlot. Riparia clusters of grapes on each vinestock. Double guyot pruning Age of the plot: 4 to 5 years old. Yield: 29HL/ha Local soil 162,5 acres property. 105 acres of vineyard Plateau Clay (40 centimetre) and limestone Vintage 2003 Vintage 2003 Producer Domaine de Chevalier, Grand Cru Classé Producer Château d Aiguilhe, Count von Neipperg, owners Olivier Bernard manager, Thomas Stonestreet Wine maker Area Pessac Léognan Area Côte de Castillon

46 TASTING NUMBER 4 : TOASTING (light, medium, heavy toasting) WHITE WINE RED WINE Aim Principe Wine-harvest Wine making and ageing Grape variety To experiment the difference between the different toasting levels, we fermented a pure semillon sample in 30 litre barrels, especially manufactured for the test. The same must was put in three different barrels: The reference corresponds to a 30 litres steel barrel The first barrel was made with staves from France aged for 24 months naturally outside, light toasting, The second barrel was made with staves from France aged for 24 months naturally outside, medium toasting, The third barrel was made with staves from France aged for 24 months naturally outside, heavy toasting. Mechanical harvester Last week of August 2003 Must put in barrel for alcoholic fermentation Lees stirred with a frequency adapted to the wine: high at the beginning, then decreasing For this test: 100% Sémillon 3000 to 5000 feet/ha, vineyard age: 25 years Aim Principe Wine-harvest Wine making and ageing Grape variety To experiment the effect of various toasting levels on a red wine, we used 225 litre barrels and wine from the 2002 vintage. Same wine put in barrels in March These used Polish wood, with three different levels of seasoning. Reference sample is in second-fill barrels Medium - Medium Long heating. The toasting temperature is lower by 20 c, but the duration of the toasting is four times longer than for Medium Manual with sorting During the aging in barrels, wine racked three times (this estate usually uses a third new oak) 53 % Cabernet Sauvignon 47% Merlot Age of the vineyard: 17 years old. Plantation density: 6600 feet/ ha Yield: 48HL/ha Local soil Boulben limestone and clay Local soil Gravel, sand and clay 50 acres of vineyard (20 ha) Vintage 2003 Vintage 2002 Producer Château Petit Moulin, Alain Signé, owner Producer Château de Villegeorge, cru bourgeois supérieur, M-L. Lurton-Roux, owner Appellation Entre-deux-mers Appellation Haut-Medoc

47 Aim Principe Wine-harvest Wine making and ageing Grape varieties Tasting Number 5 : Time spent in barrels To show the effect on a wine of different periods spent ageing in barrels. Ageing of the same wine in the same barrels. Samples drawn off and bottled at different times, always just prior to racking: 3 months 8 months 12 months Manual with sorting Classical 53 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot Age of the vineyard: 17 years old. Plantation density: 6600 feet/ ha Yield: 48HL/ha Gravel, sand and clay Local soil Vintage 2002 Producer Château Villegeorge, Cru bourgeois supérieur, Marie-Laure Lurton, owner Area Haut Médoc RED WINE

48 Further Reading Documents in English in italics 1) General topics, including chips and other subjects 2) Oak tanks 3) Origin: geographic provenance and botanical type of oak 4) Seasoning 5) Toasting and impact on aromas 6) Time spent in barrels THEME AUTHOR SUBJECT SOURCE 1 BALDWIN G. The importance of oak in winemaking The Australian Grapegrower & Winemaker N 355 July BARBE, DA SILVA FERREIRA, BERTRAND Dosage des dérivés furaniques et pyraniques issus du bois de chêne J. Sc et Tech de la tonnelllerie BERTRAND Les contaminants des chais à barriques : risques et prévention Actes du colloque Sc et Tech de la tonnelllerie IV p BERTRAND, BARBE, GAZEAU Aromatisation de vins par différents produits élaborés à partir du bois de chêne J. Sc et Tech de la tonnelllerie CHATONET Evolution des apport du bois de chêne avec l âge des Conférence SITEVINITECH, barriques. Incidences sur la qualité des vins. 1 CHATONNET Incidence du bois de chêne sur la composition chimique et les qualités organoleptiques des vins, applications technologiques 1 CHATONNET Influence des procédés de tonnellerie et des conditions d'élevage sur la compostion et la qualité des vins élevés en fûts de chêne 5 Décembre 1996 Thèse pour le diplôme d'études et de recherches de l'université de Bordeaux 1991 Thèse pour le doctorat de l'université de Bordeaux II 1995

49 1 CHATONNET, BOIDRON, DUBOURDIEU, PONS Influence des conditions d'élevage et de sulfitage des vins rouges en barriques sur leur teneur en acide acétique et en éthylphénols J. Int. Sci. Vigne Vin, 1993, 27, n 4, CHATONNET, DUBOURDIEU Odeur de "planche" dans le bois de chêne : les Revue des œnologues, n 82 responsables identifiés. 1 CHATONNET, DUBOURDIEU Using electronic odor sensors to discriminate among oak barrel toasting levels J. Sci. Food Agric., 1999, 47, CORDONNIER Les arômes des vins et des eaux-de-vie, leur formation bulletin de l'o.i.v. n 490, et leur évolution Décembre DEL ALAMO, BERNAL, DEL NOZAL, GOMEZ-CORDOVES Red wine aging in oak barrels : evolution of the monosaccharides content Food chem., 2000, 71, 2, DELTEIL Les copeaux de chêne en vinification Documentation I.T.V., 14 Juin DELTEIL Quelques repères pour maîtriser les copeaux Viti technique, n 270, janvier DENNISON A version of the invention of barrels and barrel alternatives Am. J. Enol. Vitic., 1999, 50, 4, DIAZ-PLAZA, REYERO, PARDO, ALONSO, SALINAS Influence of oak wood on the aromatic composition and quality of wines with different tannin contents J. agric. food chem., 2002, 50, 9, DUBOIS Les arômes des vins et leurs défauts Revue Française d'œnologie, n 145, Mars/Avril DUCRUET Incidence du mode de logement lors de la fermentation malolactique sur la qualité des vins rouges J. Sci. Tech. Tonnellerie, 1997, 3, FERRERAS, FERNANDEZ, FALQUE Note: Effects of oak wood on the aromatic composition of vitis vinifera L. var. treixadura wines 1 GLORIES Les tanins ellagiques du bois de chêne : origine, structure, dosage et rôle. Food sci. technol. int., 2002, 8, 6, Conférence SITEVINITECH, 5 Décembre 1996

50 1 GLORIES Substances responsables de l astringence, de l amertume et de la couleur des vins Journal internationale Des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin : «La Dégustation», 1999, p GODDEN, POLLNITZ Measuring desirable oakwood components in wine Tenth Australian wine Industry technical conference, GODDEN, POLLNITZ, OSICKA, SYKES, LIACOPOULOS, PARDON, SPILLMAN, GAWEL, JONES, SKOUROUMOUNIS, SEFTON Measuring desirable oakwood components in wine Tenth Australian wine industry technical conference, GREGUREK The merit of oak in winemaking The Australian Grapegrower & Winemaker, Juillet 1992, p GUMP Oak wood constituents, their extraction and contribution to wine flavor. 1 GUTIERREZ AFONSO Sensory descriptive analysis of red wines undergoing malolactic fermentation with oak chips 1 HALUK, IRMOULI Les constituants polymères fixes du chêne de tonnellerie : cellulose, hémicelluloses et lignine 1 HALUK, IRMOULI Les constituants polymères fixes du chêne de tonnellerie : cellulose, hémicellulose et lignine 1 HERATY, MCCORD, The evaluation of alternative oak enhancements to SKAANILD, DAVENPORT extend barrel life Proceedings of symposium»oak from forest to glass» ASEV/ES and SMSU, juillet 1999 St.Louis, Missouri. J. food sci., 2003, 68, 3, J. Sci. Tech. Tonnellerie, 1998, 4, J Sciences et tonnellerie, , 1998 Am. J. Enol. Vitic., 1999, 50, 4, HUMPHRIES, JANE, SEFTON The influence of yeast fermentation on volatile oak extractives The Australian Grapegrower & Winemaker, N 343, Juillet 1992,

51 1 HUMPHRIES, JANE, SEFTON The influence of yeast fermentation on volatile oak extractive The Australian Grapegrower & Winemaker N July 1992 Acta aliment., 1998, 27, 4, JOSHI V. K., SHAH P. K. Effect of wood treatment on chemical and sensory quality of peach wine during ageing 1 LINDBLOM CERA barrel committee tasting protocol Am. J. Enol. Vitic., 1999, 50, 4, MARSAL, SARRE Etude par chromatographie en phase gazeuse de Connaissance Vigne & Vins substances volatiles issues du bois de chêne 1987, 21, 1, 71-80, MARSAL, SARRE. Etude par chromatographie en phase gazeuse de Connaissance Vigne Vin, substances volatiles issues du bois de chêne 1987, 21, N 1, p MASSON, PUECH, BAUMES, Les extractibles du bois de chêne : Relation entre Revue des œnologues n 82, MOUTOUNET l âge et la composition du bois, Impact olfactif de p certains composés extraits par le vin 1 MOYANO, ZEA, MORENO, Analytical study of aromatic series in sherry wines MEDINA subjected to biological aging 1 PEREZ COELLO, GONZALES Chemical and sensory changes in white wines VIÑAS, GARCIA-ROMERO, fermented in the presence of oak chips CABEZUDO, SANZ 1 PEREZ - PRIETO, DE LA HERA - Oak-matured wines ; influence of the characteristics ORTS, LOPEZ-ROCA, of barrel o wine colour, and sensory characteristics. FERNANDEZ - FERNANDEZ, GOMEZ-PLAZA 1 POCOCK, SEFTON, WILLIAMS Taste tresholds of phenolic extracts of french and american oakwood : the influence of oak phenols on wine flavor 1 POMAR, GONZALEZ MENDOZA Changes in composition and sensory quality of red wine aged american and frech oak barrels 1 PUECH Les ellagitanins et la whisky lactone du bois de chêne : application aux vins et aux eaux de vin.divers points de vue sur l utilisation des copeaux de chêne. J. agric. food chem., 2002, 50, 25, International Journal of Food Science and Technology 35, (1), 23-32, J. Sci. Food Agric., 2003, 83, Am. J. Enol. Vitic., Vol. 45, No.4, J. Int. Sci. Vigne Vin, 2001, 35, n 1, Conférence SITEVINITECH, 5 Décembre 1996

52 1 PUECH, MOSEDALE, FEUILLAT The tannins of oak heartwood : structure, properties, and their influence on wine flavor 1 PUECH, MOSEDALE, FEUILLAT 1 RAMIRE RAMIREZ, LUBBERS, CHARPENTIER, FEUILLAT, VOILLEY, CHASSAGNE 1 RIBEREAU-GAYON, GLORIES, MAUJEAN, DUBOURDIEU The tanins of oak heartwood : structure, properties, and their influence on the wine flavor Aroma compound sorption by oak wood in a model wine Oak in Winemaking, International Symposium Juin Oak in winemaking, International Symposium juin 1999 J. Agric.Food Chem., 2001, 49, 8, Les composés phénoliques Traité d œnologie, Dunod, Paris 1998,, p STUTZ, LIN, HERDMAN Barrel renewal systems: A user's perspective Am. J. Enol. Vitic., 1999, 50, 1 VIVAS, VIVAS DE GADAUGEAC, MONIER, NEDJMA Les phénomènes colloïdaux et l'intérêt des lies dans l'élevage des vins rouges : une nouvelle approche technologique et méthodologique. 1ère partie : Méthodes traditionnelles d'élevage sur lies destinées aux vins en fûts. 1.3 DE SIMON, CADAHIA, JALOCHA Volatile compounds in a Spanish red wine aged in barrels made of spanish, french, and American oak wood 4, Rev. Fr. Oen., 2001, 189, J. agric. food chem., 2003, 51,26, GOLDSMITH Cooper vs. forests : which is more important? International Symposium on Oak in Winemaking, Reno, Nevada, June WILKER, GALLANDER Comparison of Seyval Blanc wine aged in barrels and Am.J.Enol. Vitic., Vol.39, N 1 stainless steel tanks with oak chips WILKER, GALLANDER Comparison of Seyval Blanc wine aged with air-and kiln-dried American white oak. Am.J.Enol. Vitic., Vol.40, N 3, BREHIER Fûts de chêne, L'effet "espèce" prédomine Réussir vigne, Juin 2002

53 3 CHATONNET, DUBOURDIEU Comparative study of the characteristics of American white oak (Quercus alba) and European oak (Quercus petraea and Q. robur) for production of barrels used in barrel aging of wines 3 FERNANDEZ DE SIMON, HERNANDEZ, CADAHIA, DUENAS, ESTRELLA 3 MASSON, GUICHARD, FOURNIER, PUECH Phenolic compounds in a Spanish red wine aged in barrels made of Spanish, French and American oak wood Teneurs en stéréo-isomères de la β-méthyl-γoctalactone des bois de chêne européens et américains. Application aux vins et aux eaux-de-vie 3 NAUDIN Incidences de l origine géographique, de la texture et de l espèce botanique des chênes sur la qualité organoleptiques des vins 3 SAUVAGEOT, FEUILLAT The influence of oak wood (Quercus robur L., Q. petraea Liebl.) on the flavor of burgundy pinot noir. An examination of variation among individual trees Am. J. Enol. Vitic., 1998, 49, 1, European food research and technology A , 216, 2, J. Sci. Tech. Tonnellerie, 1997, 3, p Rapport d activité I.T.V. France Beaune, Am. j. enol. vitic., 1999, 50, 4, SCHAHINGER The importance of seasoning oak for wine The Australian Grapegrower & Winemaker, Juillet 1993, p VIVAS, ABSALON, BENOIST, VITRY, GRAZILLIE., DE REVEL, BERTRAND Les chênes européens Q.robur L. et Q. petraea (Matt.) Liebl. : Analyse des potentialités œnologiques des différents massifs forestiers 4 CHATONNER, BOIDRON, DUBOURDIEU, PONS Evolution polyphénolique du bois de chêne au cours du séchage. Premiers résultats 4 CHATONNET, BOIDRON, Evolution des composés polyphénoliques du bois de DUBOURDIEU, PONS chêne au cours de son séchage. Premiers résultats 4 FRANCIS, SEFTON, WILLIAMS A study by sensory descriptive analysis of the effects of oak origin, seasoning, and heating on the aromas of oak model wine extracts 4 HALE, McCAFFERTY, LARMIE, NEXTON, SWAN The influence of oak seasoning and toasting parameters on the composition and quality of wine Vème colloque des Sciences et Techniques de la Tonnellerie. Journal International de la Vigne et du Vin 28 n 4, 1994 Journal International de la Vigne et du Vin 28 n 4, 1994 Am. J. Enol. Vitic., Vol. 43, No. 1, Oak in winemaking, International Symposium juin 1999

54 4 ROULLAND Maturation en Charente des bois de tonnellerie. Etude microbiologique. Conférence SITEVINITECH, 5 Décembre SEFTON, FRANCIS, POCOCK, WILLIAMS The influence of natural seasoning on the concentrations of eugenol, vanillin, and cis- and trans-β-methyl-γ-octalactone extraites de bois de Science des aliments, 13 (1993) SEFTON, FRANCIS, POCOCK, WILLIAMS chêne français et américain The influence of natural seasoning on the concentrations of eugenol, vanillin, and cis and trans B méthyl G octalactones extraites de vois de chêne français et américain Science des aliments, 13, , SNAKKERS Etude de quelques caractéristiques des merrains en fin Conférence SITEVINITECH, de maturation. 5 Décembre CHATONNET Identification et dosage de nouveaux composés volatils à arôme «grillé» dans le bois chauffé. Incidences sur l arômes des vins Les rencontres scientifiques SEGUIN-MOREAU, SITEVINITECH CHATONNET, BOIDRON, DUBOURDIEU Maîtrise de la chauffe de brûlage en tonnellerie. Application à la vinification et à l'élevage en barriques. 5 MATRICARDI, WATERHOUSE Influence of toasting technique on color and ellagitanins of oak wood in barrel making 5 SNAKKERS, BOULESTEIX, ESTREGUIL, GASCHET, LABLANQUIE, FAURE, CANAGREL 5 SPILLMAN, POLLNITZ, LIACOPOULOS, SKOUROUMOUNIS, SEFTON Effect of oak wood heating on cognac spirit atured in new barrel : a pilot study Accumulation of vanillin during barrel aging of white, red, and model wines R.F.OE., Novembre 1993 International Symposium on Oak in Winemaking / Am J. Enol. Vitic., Vol 50, N 4, J. Int. Sci. Vigne Vin, 2003, 37, n 4, J. Agric. Food Chem, 45, , BREHIER Le bois des fûts fixerait des arômes du vins Réussir vigne, Juin 2002

55 6 SPILLMAN, POLLNITZ, LIACOPOULOS, PARDON, SEFTON 1, 3 PEREZ-PRIETO, LOPEZ-ROCA, MARTINEZ-CUTILLAS, PARDO-MINGUEZ, GOMEZ- PLAZA 1, 3 VIVAS, PIANET, BOURGEOIS, VITRY, SERVENS, GLORIES 1, 3, 4, 5 DOUSSOT, DE JESO, QUIDEAU, PARDON 1, 3, 4, 5 SEFTON, SPILLMAN, POCKOCK, FRANCIS, WILLIAMS Formation and degradation of furfuryl alcohol, 5- methylfurfuryl alcohol, vanillyl alcohol, and their ethyl ethers in barrel-aged wines Maturing wines in oak barrels. Effects of origin, volume, and age of the barrel on the wine volatile composition Characterization of heartwood lignin fractions from Quercus robur L. and Quercus petraea (Matt) Liebl., the main oak species used for barrel making Extractives content in cooperage oak wood during natural seasoning and toasting; Influence of tree species, geographic location, and single-tree effects The influence of oak origin, seasoning, and other industry practices on the sensory characteristics and composition of oak extracts and barrel-aged white wines 1, 6 KADIM, MANNHEIM Kinetics of phenolic extraction during aging of model wine solution and white wine in oak barrels 1,4, 5 HALE, McCAFFERTY, LARMIE, The influence oe oak seasoning and toasting NEWTON, SWAN parameters on the composition and quality of wine 3, 4 SEFTON, SPILMAN, POCOCK, FRANCIS, WILLIAMS The influence of origin, seasoning, and other industry practises on the sensory characteristics and composition of oak extracts and barrels aged white wines J.Agric.Food Chem. 1998, 46, J. Sci. Food Agric., 2002, 50, Am. J. Enol. Vitic., 1998, 49, 1, J. agric. food chem., 2002, 50, 21, The Australian Grapegrower & Winemaker, N 355, Juillet Am. j. enol. vitic., 1999, 50, 1, Oak in Winemaking, International Symposium Juin The Australian Grapegrower & Winemaker N 355 July 1993

56 Some useful addresses... Tonnellerie TARANSAUD Merpins - B.P Cognac cedex (France) Tél. : 33 (0) Fax : 33 (0) info@taransaud.com CHÊNE & CIE 5, rue Magellan Paris (France) Tél. : 33 (0) Fax : 33 (0) chene@chene.fr Contacts.... In charge of Communication Françoise Barbin-Lecrevisse Tél. : 33 (0) Fax : 33 (0) fbl@taransaud.com. Press Attaché Danielle Escher - D.E.S. Communication Tél. : 33 (0) Fax : 33 (0) October 2002

57 MASTERS of WINE THE INSTITUTE OF MASTERS OF WINE This compilation of papers presented at the seminar published by: The Institute of Masters of Wine Five Kings House 1 Queen Street Place London EC4R 1QS Telephone: +44 (020) Fax: +44 (020) enquiries@masters-of-wine.org Web site: For further information about the Institute and its activities Please contact Siobhan Turner, Executive Director at the above address Or by direct sturner@masters-of-wine.org Principal Supporters Constellation Wines AXA Millésimes