2010 Burgundy En Primeur

Transcription

1 2010 Burgundy En Primeur Index of growers p.3...fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin p.4... Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée p.4... Faiveley, Nuits-Saint-Georges p.6...jean Guiton, Bligny Les Beaune p.7... Françoise & Denis Clair, Santenay p.8... René Lequin-Colin, Santenay p Ninot, Rully p Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuissé 13 Humphrey Farms, Hazeley Road, Twyford, Winchester, Hampshire SO21 1QA Telephone: Fax: Website: 1

2 The Weather The first event that contributed to the character of the 2010 vintage in Burgundy happened in On 19th December the region was struck by a frost so severe that a large number of vines were killed, and many of those that survived did not produce a full crop of fruit. Moving through 2010 the warm and very dry weather in April brought on an early bud burst. Cold, windy and wet weather in June resulted in a flowering described by Domaine Faiveley s winemaker as slow and chaotic ; the fruit set was extremely poor with widespread millerandage (small, uneven clusters of small grapes). The summer weather was disappointingly cold and wet. September was drier allowing the harvest of the healthy fruit to take place later than in 2009, most of our growers starting the work between 20th and 25th September. Several growers made the point that if the fruit had set well in June then the weather during the summer would not have been warm enough to fully ripen a normal sized crop. The Wines Before my visit in November last year the information available concentrated on the difficult weather conditions through the growing season, and following the lauding of the 2009s, comments from growers indicated they were not confident of reproducing that level of quality in the succeeding vintage. I therefore arrived with fairly low expectations. From my first visit to Erell Ninot through to my last with Sylvain Cathiard these expectations were comfortably exceeded time after time. The white wines are concentrated yet wonderfully lively and focused; when writing up my original notes I was surprised how often the words zest and fresh kept appearing. The long growing season and low yields have resulted in clean ripe fruit allied to refreshing, almost mouthwatering, acidity, and in so many cases a refined minerality. Jean-Baptiste Clair suggested that this vintage combined the best elements of both 2008 and 2009; indeed there have not been many vintages so attractive in youth and yet promising such potential in maturity. For the red wines, modern vinification techniques really proved their worth following the difficult summer weather. The use of sorting tables to remove diseased fruit followed by gentle extraction and minimal handling were vital to capture the nascent clarity, freshness and balance. In many cellars pigeage (punching down the crust that forms above the fermenting must) was performed more sparingly than is usual. In common with the whites, these wines have a refreshing structure which really lifts the wonderfully rich red fruit and allows a clear expression of the character and quality of each of the Burgundy s myriad terroirs. Prices & Availability Despite being faced with significantly less wine to sell than usual the habitually pragmatic Burgundians generally have not rushed to raise prices to compensate. There are domaines in this list where international demand encourages an annual price increase. As merchants we have to accept this as the discussion generally centres on how much will you let me buy? rather than what discount will you offer?, and certainly the continued interest from consumers indicates that price has not yet become a barrier to purchase. Having said that, a significant number of the wines that we list here are at the same prices as in last year s offer. The issue this year is that the production of many of these wines is very limited, 2

3 so in a vintage where production was reduced by between 15% and 50% it is inevitable that demand will exceed supply in many cases. It is many years since we have had two consecutive yet contrasting vintages that are equally deserving of a place in your cellar. I am strongly convinced that 2010 will prove more interesting, perhaps more challenging, and ultimately more satisfying in its development than Gordon Coates, February 2012 Côte de Nuits Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Last year we wrote that in 2009 millerandage in the older vineyards (of which the domaine has many) had significantly reduced quantities; in 2010 the problem was far worse, particularly in the Premier Crus. Harvesting took place around 25th September, 100 days after the start of flowering. Many of the berries that were harvested were so small that a new grill for the sorting table had to be hurriedly purchased. The aim chez Fourrier is to produce wines that give pleasure, not wines that overpower and exhaust the taster. The wines here show an extraordinary purity of bright red fruit, and yet the subtle nuances that differentiate village from village, climat from climat, are clear to taste is a vintage which plays to Jean-Marie s strengths, and terroir shines through. Rather than increasing prices in an attempt to kerb demand for his wines, Jean-Marie has reduced allocations in line with his reduced yields, so we have less wines to list than usual and we have much smaller quantities of each. They will sell out quickly. Morey St-Denis, Clos Solon Case: Code: FUR810 From half a hectare of 40 year old vines, close to the centre of the village. Bright pale purple hue. Intense, broad raspberry aromas. Bags of fresh, pure red fruit, with balancing acid and tannin structure. As usual this charming wine will give pleasure from an early stage Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Echezeaux Case: Code: FUR210 A single vineyard wine, from vines planted in 1928 at the southern limit of Gevrey bordering Morey St-Denis. Translucent ruby pink. Delightfully open nose strawberries and cream. A bright, velvety mouthful of ripe red fruit, lifted by smoothly integrated acidity Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieille Vigne Case: Code: FUR110 Also from vines planted in 1928 but to the north of the village, close to the hamlet of Brochon. As usual this is broader and firmer than the wines above, and will need more time to develop. A generous palate of rich hedgerow fruit with mineral grip. This is well structured and persistent

4 Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée Sylvain s harvest in 2010 was so much reduced that the line of barrels made a slightly forlorn sight as they took up so little space in the magnificent, recently built, vaulted stone cellar where we sampled the vintage from cask. This much sought-after estate has tiny, but superb, vineyard holdings. The Chambolle comes from 56 year old vines in a vineyard just below the 1er Crus near the village centre. Premier Cru Aux Murgers is between Nuits and Vosne on the mid slope contiguous with great Grand Crus just to the north, whilst the Vosne 1er Cru En Orveaux is from old vines just above the Grand Cru of Echezeaux (indeed most of the vineyard is actually within the boundary of the Grand Cru). Cathiard s vines are, as he says, biens placés ; tasting here is always a magnificent treat. The house style is for wines with intense, highly refined fruit - the very essence of Pinot - rounded with clean, sweet, high quality oak: even the Village Vosne goes into 50% new oak. Despite this the wines can drink very well young, such is their suavity and delectable fruit. Needless to say we have tiny quantities of each of these wines. Vosne Romanée Case of 6 bottles: Code: CAT110 A deep purple hue. Consistently such an elegant style with a broad palette of toast, strawberry and redcurrant. The weight of fruit skilfully masks the underlying structure. Oak integrated but evident on the finish Chambolle-Musigny, Clos de l Orme Case of 6 bottles: Code: CAT410 This wine is always so pure and precise, with its piercing raspberry fruit. Such silky texture and perfect balance, along with the mouthwatering zest which marks this vintage Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru, Aux Murgers Case of 6 bottles: Code: CAT610 Attractive translucent appearance. A somewhat surly young nose; dense and impenetrable. The palate is powerfully constructed, with generous hedgerow fruit lifted by a touch of menthol. For the patient Vosne Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux Case of 6 bottles: Code: CAT510 Generously open, with baked bread notes. Plum fruited, serious, and builds in the mouth like the elusive peacock s tail. A thrilling combination of power and grace Domaine Faiveley, Nuits-Saint-Georges Established in 1825 this large (120 hectares) family owned domaine is controlled by seventh generation Erwan Faiveley. Erwan has recruited the talented and well connected Bernard Hervet, and together they have overseen an expansion of the domaine to include more white Premier and Grand Crus in the Côte de Beaune. The style of the reds remains traditional, yet they are less austere and more forward than those produced during the tenure of Erwan s father François. 4

5 The red Grand Cru, Clos De La Roche is a new addition this year. These wines were tasted in the company of Export Director Vincent Avenel, first in the extensive Faiveley cellars in Nuits- Saint-Georges in November, then again earlier this year in London. Whites Mercurey Blanc, Clos Rochette Case: Code: FAJ110 From a monopole vineyard between Mercurey and neighbouring Rully. Star bright pale lemon. An open, lively citrus nose, a touch leesy. Good weight of ripe pear, along with vanilla notes lead to a well focused finish Meursault Case: Code: FAJ210 Pale lemon colour. On the nose this is expansive and enticing with subtle white peach and mealy notes. Richly textured yet elegant with a deep core of butter and hazelnut. Good structure and lemon zest freshness on the finish Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru, La Garenne Case of 6 bottles: Code: FAJ310 Dazzling mid lemon hue. Generous and classy white floral perfume. The finely honed palate yields ripe pear and lemon with honeyed notes. Poised, seamlessly integrated and builds to a long mineral finish. A standout success in this vintage Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, Grand Cru Case of 6 bottles: Code: FAJ510 Bright pale gold. Lifted scents of baked apple and vanilla. From a low key entry this builds convincingly to a silky textured multi-layered crescendo of ripe stone fruit, with herb and mineral depth. So complex, so very long Mercurey Rouge, Framboisière Case: Code: FAJ610 Just south of Clos Rochette, this is another of the domaine s wholly owned (monopole) vineyards. The nose is perennially redolent of raspberries. On the palate it is rounded by the addition of strawberry and cherry stone notes. Delicately balanced; finishes well Beaune, 1er Cru, Clos de l Ecu Case: Code: FAJ710 From a monopole vineyard above Les Cents Vignes, with a southerly exposure. A piercing nose of red and black fruits. Creamy textured, summer pudding with a liquorice twist. Well defined and delicious

6 Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru, Les Porêts-Saint-Georges Case of 6 bottles: Code: FAJ810 Such a limpid ruby hue. A perfumed and pure nose leaps from the glass. There is ripe tannin here along with a hint of oak, but they are masked by really generous ripe hedgerow fruit. Built for a long life, and strongly recommended Clos De La Roche, Grand Cru Case of 6 bottles: Code: FAJ910 Liqueur like yet still piercing perfume. Supple, velvety ripe plums and cherries well integrated with serious mineral depth and length. Generously styled and hedonistic Mazis Chambertin, Grand Cru Case of 6 bottles: Code: FAJ010 From a 1.2 hectare parcel this wine stood out as the highlight of Faiveley s mouthwatering array of Grand Crus. Rapier-like aromas of raspberry coulis. On the palate, elegant, dense, seamless, with the refined power of the vintage. Complete and persistent Côte de Beaune Domaine Jean Guiton, Bligny Les Beaune Guillaume Guiton, who like so many of his generation has worked in several wineries both in Burgundy and as far away as Australia, is now in charge of the domaine founded 35 years ago by his father Jean. The family s 11 hectares of vines cover a wide number of appellations, and the wines display wonderful purity, and are each true to their origin. We introduced this domaine last year with the 2009s, which were and are still delicious. In this new vintage quality is again superb and prices extremely reasonable. In the Financial Times of 28th January 2012, Jancis Robinson MW listed Jean Guiton amongst 11 producers who in her opinion all seemed to perform particularly well in Bourgogne Pinot Noir Case: Code: GUI110 From vines to the east of Pommard and given 12 months in barrel. Bright and translucent ruby, with a piecing cherry and raspberry scent. Ripe red fruit is to the fore supported lively acid and subtle tannin. Once again, this is remarkably stylish for a generic appellation Savigny Les Beaune, 1er Cru, Les Hauts Jarrons Case: Code: GUI310 From a vineyard close to the border with Beaune itself, and given 25% new oak. Such an even and attractive ruby hue. Bright, lifted nose of red cherries. Displaying a melange of red fruits with that menthol freshness that marks this vintage. Finely wrought and finishing long and clean

7 Pernand Vergelesses, 1er Cru, Les Vergelesses Case: Code: GUI610 The product of a parcel of old, low yielding vines in this well sited vineyard. A brilliantly focused nose of ripe red fruits, and a generous well structured palate. Smoky, vanilla notes add attractive depth Aloxe-Corton Case: Code: GUI810 Deep, but still crystal bright colour. A dense brooding black fruit nose yields to a stylish, well textured palate akin to a premier cru in its weight, yet with refreshing zest. Guillaume s wine has the textbook power of this commune with none of the hard edges Françoise & Denis Clair, Santenay My annual visit to the Clair family has fallen into a familiar routine. Having been warmly greeted by Denis he allows his son, Jean-Baptiste, to introduce the increasingly stylish whites, but cannot resist making good humoured interjections. As we move on to taste the reds, J-B listens quietly as Denis talks through the range. Both men were clearly delighted to have much better wines than they could have anticipated during the growing season, or even in their early days in the cellar. As with most of our stable, oaking is understated here: 10% new barrels on most of the wines, 20-30% on the top St. Aubins and 35% on the Puligny. The excellent village Saint-Aubin is rightly one of our best selling Côte d Or whites. The 1er Cru, Champlots, makes a perfect bridge between the village wine and the ageworthy and more pricey Murgers des Dents de Chien. The 1er Cru Puligny continues to offer very good value from a vineyard that deserves to be better known. The Hautes Côtes de Beaune has taken on an extra dimension this year, whilst the red Saint- Aubin 1er Cru would easily pass as the product of a much more famous appellation. The wines here, both whites and reds, really do have rapport qualité prix. Whites Saint-Aubin Blanc Case: Code: CLB210 Crystal bright. Open mealy nose with zesty nuance. This displays real typicity with ripe white fruit allied to cream and oatmeal. Classically styled and excellent value Saint-Aubin Blanc, 1er Cru, Champlots Case: Code: CLB310 Champlots lies on a south west facing slope above the hamlet of Gamay with calcareous soils that imbue its wines with a definite mineral edge. Open, with a whiff of classy oak. The ripe pear fruit with a subtle stoniness is impressively focussed, well integrated and already attractive

8 Saint-Aubin Blanc, 1er Cru, Les Murgers des Dents de Chien Case: Code: CLB410 Sited on the rocky slopes above the Montrachets, this is rightly considered one of the top Premier Crus in the village, and is consistently our favourite of the five in the Clair s cellar. Stylish, almost ethereal floral scents. Pure, focused and racy white peach, with such elegant balance and a fine finish Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru, La Garenne Case: Code: CLB510 From old vines on this calcareous site high on the slope. Intense and honed on the nose. Powerfully built, yet lent a savoury depth by subtle mineral notes. Finishes well, with textbook austerity Bourgogne Haute Côtes de Beaune Rouge Case: Code: CLB610 Low yields from Denis old vines have lent this gem more weight and concentration in Lovely deep ruby hue. Delightfully lifted scent of preserved raspberries. Mouth watering, ripe red fruits checked by fresh acid spine. Generous and well structured Saint-Aubin Rouge, 1er Cru, Sur le Sentier du Clou Case: Code: CLB810 Deeper colour and a touch muted on the nose. Really textured chocolate, black cherry and bramble elements meld and mask ripe tannins. This is Pommard style without the price tag; true, old-fashioned Pinot René Lequin-Colin, Santenay This 9 hectare family domaine, which dates back over 300 years, has a lovely range of vineyards, deriving from the marital conjoining of Lequins from Santenay and Colins from Chassagne-Montrachet. Relaxed and charming, François Lequin makes a well presented range of clean, precise and expressive wines. Although clearly settled on his style, François is moving towards organic methods in the vineyard which he feels helps the expression of terroir. This thoughtful respect for tradition allied to contemporary methods yields results which we really enjoy, and clearly so do you. Whites Bourgogne Chardonnay Case: Code: LEQ810 From fruit grown in vineyards close to the village of Santenay this is fermented 50% in tank and 50% in barrel, with 10% new oak. Open, clean and brightly perfumed, with a palate of attractive ripe lemon fruit. With surprising concentration, this tastes grander than its lowly appellation

9 Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Charrières Case: Code: LEQ110 The fruit comes from very old, low yielding vines located below the Montrachet Grand Crus and around 25% new oak is used. The result is a seriously elegant wine displaying almond and oatmeal notes, creamy pear fruit and a mineral spine. So well balanced and very persistent Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru, Les Caillerets Case: Code: LEQ310 The chalky, calcareous soils of this well-sited vineyard on the slope above the village produce the finest Premier Cru in François cellar. Enticingly citrus nose. On the palate, rich yet mineral and elegant; this builds so convincingly to an impressive finish. A real triumph this vintage Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru Case: Code: LEQ010 South facing, high on the hill overlooking Aloxe-Corton. Already expressive, with big floral and vanilla aromas. Fresh cream and ripe pear heart; this is richly textured, yet at the same time focused Batard-Montrachet, Grand Cru Case of 6 bottles: Code: LEQ910 Pale gold colour. Piercing jasmine and white rose scents. This is complex and opulent with ripe stone fruit overlaying flint and gunpowder hints. Tightly wound and promising so much Bourgogne Pinot Noir Case: Code: LEQ610 The grapes are all destemmed and half the wine lies in tank whilst half goes into barrel. Vivid deep purple. Brooding aroma of black cherries. Bright, well defined red fruit and discreet acid and tannin structure make this a sound follow-up to last year s outstanding success Corton, Les Languettes, Grand Cru Case: Code: LEQ510 From 65 year old vines in a lieu dit close to the top of the hill, with a perfect southerly aspect. A focused, incisive cherry and cassis nose leads on to a powerful oak cloaked palate of svelte red and black fruit. Supple, firm structure bodes well for an assured development

10 Côte Chalonnaise Domaine Ninot, Rully With a history that can be traced back to 1376, this 13 hectare domaine is currently in the hands of the talented Erell Ninot, assisted in the vineyards by her brother, and with their father on hand to share his experience. Erell studied in Beaune and then gained experience abroad before returning to the family domaine in My visit and tasting was a week after the wines had been bottled, yet they showed extremely well. With yields reduced by over 30%, prices have increased slightly. Before I left, Erell explained that she had been able to acquire a parcel of Pinot Noir vines in Rully 1er Cru Marissou, so I look forward to tasting this new addition on my next visit. Whites Rully Blanc, La Barre Case: Code: NIN110 From a single vineyard south west of the village. Generously open and classy nose of oatmeal and ripe pear. On the palate this is rich, creamy, buttery, yet balanced with elegant acidity. Erell happily noted that in this vintage the wine benefited from the fortuitous combination of plus de matiere et plus d acidité Rully Blanc, 1er Cru Grésigny Case: Code: NIN310 If I compare La Barre to a Meursault, then Grésigny invokes Puligny; this year the wines are shaped by terroir rather that the weather. Such bright, open ripe citrus aromas. Focused and piercing fruit is further freshened by an intense minerality. Tightly wound and promising a wonderful development Rully Rouge, La Chaponnière Case: Code: NIN610 Erell is not looking for a heavily extracted style of red, and only half of this wine is raised in oak, about 5% new. Translucent with hints of purple. Crunchy red currant and rosehip aromas introduce a velvety mouthful of clean red fruits with well integrated acidity and tannin Mercurey Rouge, 1er Cru Les Crêts Case: Code: NIN810 Notably deeper in colour and with a broad, brooding black fruit nose. Powerfully built, with concentrated blackcurrant and raspberry fruit masking ripe tannins. Well balanced and with such length; impressive

11 Mâconnais Domaine Saumaize-Michelin, Vergisson This year s visit to Roger and Christine Saumaize had an air of the United Nations about it. As Christine showed me down to the cellar, Roger was already outlining his views on the 2010 vintage to a Belgian wine merchant and his family. Shortly after we were joined by three men looking to buy wine for a new venture in Denmark, and the tasting began. Roger is committed to bio-dynamic viticulture (without certification) and he achieves superbly healthy grapes and high levels of ripeness, without the wines ever losing balance or becoming over-ripe or blowsy. Like so many vignerons, Roger contrasted the new vintage with the 2009, which he felt produced wines marked by fruit maturity which left terroir differences somewhat in the background. 2010, on the other hand, was a later harvest yielding ripe fruit with fresh aromas and well defined acid structure. The resulting wines have an attractive transparency and mineral precision that in Roger s view may be approaching perfection. Whites Saint Véran, Fleur Case: Code: SAU810 This subtly oaked cuvée is the ideal introduction to the house style here. Delicately piercing floral aromas lead on to a well balanced, creamy palate displaying pear and pineapple notes. Textured and long Saint Véran, Les Crêches Case: Code: SAU310 From grapes grown on poor, chalky soil, fermented in traditional piéces. Ripe lemon, and a more exotic hint on the nose. Fresh, zesty, and with a well integrated mineral note, this is restrained and elegant Pouilly-Fuissé, Pentacrine Case: Code: SAU710 Named after the 5-sided marine fossils found locally, this wine is raised in larger 600 litre demi muids which encourages the floral notes. Cream and pear flavours are lent mouthwatering freshness by a spine reminiscent of a blanc de blancs champagne. A consistent favourite Pouilly-Fuissé, Clos sur la Roche Case: Code: SAU410 From vines on the lower slopes of the Roche de Vergisson directly behind the domaine. Enticing aromas of stone fruits and white flowers give on to a palate of delightful weight and texture. Powerful, yet with taut structure, this is already complex and stylish, and builds to a lingering finale

12 How sales en primeur work. You choose the wines you want to buy now and we will invoice you at the prices quoted. Effectively you are buying the wine overseas, often before it has been bottled. We will then invoice you for duty at the prevailing rate (currently per case, but likely to increase in the spring budget) plus VAT, on the cost of the wine and the duty, when it is shipped from the early summer of 2012 onwards. As an example, if you buy a case of wine for 200, then in the unlikely event that import duty remains constant and with VAT at 20%, we will later invoice you for prior to sending you your wine. Prices are valid until the end of April Terms and conditions. Wine is only offered in unsplit cases of 12 bottles unless otherwise stated. Please note that wine will NOT be available in bond. To enable us to be as competitive as possible we ship all wine to our own warehouse, duty paid. We will then deliver it on to you or to your preferred place of storage at our standard rate of 5.50 per case for orders below 250, 8.50 for two cases, or free above 250 (including the duty and VAT). For Highlands, Islands and NI please ask us for a quote. Finally, whilst we make every effort to supply the wines offered above, if the wines fail to be made available by the producer we will either supply similar wines or alternatively refund any payments made. 13 Humphrey Farms, Hazeley Road, Twyford, Winchester, Hampshire SO21 1QA Telephone: Fax: sales@stonevine.co.uk 12